Introduction
Herewith, my latest remote inverted canister winter stove.

On the left, the V8 stove has disappeared into my Trangia kettle, while on the right, I have removed the kettle so you can see the stove. It weighs 75 g, including a long carbon fibre handle. There is a 76×400 mm titanium foil windscreen around the stove, weighing all of 12.5 g.
But before I tell you the tale of the stove, let me give some background to my stove-designing games.
Background
My stove adventures probably started when Brunton sent me their ‘Stove Stand’ for review. This cute device converted a high, wobbly upright canister stove into a more stable and lower one, with the canister off to one side, safely out of the way. Well, that was the idea, anyhow. It worked, and I reviewed it here many years ago.
It was a cute idea, but so limited: the canister still had to sit upright, or liquid fuel would appear on the jet, and you would get an exciting flare-up. I did wonder whether this could be fixed. Perhaps a strip of copper running down from the flames to the metal inlet fitting might carry enough heat for vaporisation? The Alpine Bomb (check the web) does this after all. So I experimented.

On the left, we have the basic Brunton Stove Stand. In the middle, I have put my GST-100 stove on the stove stand and added a copper strip from the flames to the input fitting, to vaporize the incoming liquid fuel. As you can see from the inverted canister behind it, this idea worked fine. I call this stove my V0. After I published this, Christopher Whitter had a go, using heavy copper wire (photo on right), and this too worked fine.
This got me thinking about remote inverted canister stoves for winter trips. To be sure, some commercial units existed at that time, but they were a bit heavy. Some of them were straight-out clumsy. Could I do any better? I would need a stove (or burner), a hose, and a canister connector (plus my wife really did not like the kerosene fumes from my Coleman Peak Apex II stove).

About the same time, my GST-100 stove failed partway through a 2-month-long trip in Europe’s Pyrenees, due to the rough threads on the gas canisters chewing away at the brass thread. This rather annoyed me at the time, and I did not want a repeat of the problem. My canister connector should not screw onto the canister like this.
Obviously, a better canister connector was needed. At the same time, I wanted a design with two valves: one good control valve somewhere near the burner and one fast-acting on/off valve right at the canister for safety. Fairly obviously, the control valve had to be on the gas flow rather than on the liquid flow if I wanted fine control of the flame.
The Original Stove (V1)
You can review my original design process of the stove, catalogued through five installments below:

Leaping ahead a bit, I ended up with this (left photo). A stock burner top on a stove body of my own design, sitting on some support legs, a Heat Shunt (unlabeled) from the flames to the stove body, a light hose, and a versatile canister connector. A ‘light hose’ means that the hose should be flexible, unlike many commercial offerings. The connections at each end of the hose should be able to rotate, so the hose could sit flat despite any curls. The photo on the right shows the same connector attached to screw-thread canisters, CampinGaz canisters and the very light Coleman PowerMax canisters. And it does show the curls in the hoses.
The latter two canister designs have connectors which rely on lugs under the rim of the Lindal valve rather than a screw thread on the central spigot, and are in my opinion, far more reliable. Shades of Betamax. In the early days we could only get the CampinGaz canisters when wandering around in Europe, but that is (usually) no longer a problem. Never mind: I wanted the option. In the end I sold about 115 of these stoves around the world. They are V1.
I did not feel like machining 115 of these by hand, relying on every one to be identical. I may be good, but I’m not that good! And for reliability, I wanted all the parts to be interchangeable. So I bought a small CNC machine to do it for me. Programming a CNC is utterly different from writing a program for a conventional computer, so learning how to do that was great fun. Yes, you can get CAD/CAM software to write the programs for you, but at this level of complexity you would be looking at very big dollars – maybe tens of thousands. Not for me.
Vortex Burners: V2 and V3
When designing the second and third versions of my stove, I was thinking about replacing the commercial burner top on the V1 when I got diverted into playing with Vortex Burners. This design is the same as the classic MSR XGK: a chamber with the flame inside and more flames coming out the top. It has no V1-style heat shunt per se; rather heat from the flames inside the burner chamber radiates down onto the base plate and the jet, heating the stove body underneath. (The MSR XGK has a ‘preheat’ fuel line over the top of the stove, in the flames.) A small point: Vortex Burners tend to roar a bit. My wife likes the noise: it means coffee or dinner is coming.

The version on the left was an early one, using titanium and stainless steel, to test the concept. It worked well, but it had two problems: it was heavy, as might be expected given the metals used, and the titanium wire pot supports were unreliable. They look nice, but they rely on ‘spot welding’ titanium wire, and that weld is not really a metal weld. It is just two wires mashed together under heat with the titanium oxide layer still between them. The joint will fail under load.
The version on the right has only the tips of the Ti wires in the flame, to get red hot. This is not only safer, it keeps the CO level right down. The glowing red disk in the middle is the splash plate, and it keeps the flames inside the chamber. Without it there, the fuel would shoot up in the air with dangerous consequences. It led to V2 and V3, which I sold.
V4: Upright Canister Stove
Tidying up everything after the V3, I found a box of incomplete upright burner head designs which I had been playing with but which I had abandoned for the Vortex design. I went back to experiments with an upright burner, and made the V4. It has internal baffles (inside the burner head) to mix and direct the gas. It used a Heat Shunt again. A motley collection is shown here in the left, with V1 stoves at the left and the venerable V0 (used across Switzerland) at the back. Some of the other designs in the photo – well, I was experimenting at the time.

On the right we have the eventual V4 stove design. The design of the burner head worked nicely, but it was a bit complex to make. Several fiddly bits inside the head were needed to get the gas flowing in the right direction (upwards to the pot), while not adding too much weight.
Out of all this I identified a major problem: not in the stove itself, but how to support the stove and the pot. The thing is that one has to be able to pack the stove away into a small volume, and that means the legs have to be able to be folded up a bit. In the left photo some rather nice titanium zigzag legs may be seen (try bottom right). They were nice, but tricky to make and they required rather a lot of sheet Ti. On the other hand, the wire legs on the right proved to be quite strong enough, and much lighter.
Thermal Balance
As part of the V4 design, I had to work out what size heat shunt (taking heat from the flame to the stove body) should be used. Obviously the stove body has to get hot enough to (very) reliably vaporize the incoming liquid fuel so no liquid fuel comes out the jet. After all, you do not want any flaring inside a tent in a storm in the snow. At the same time the stove body must not get too hot or it will damage the Viton O-rings and the PFA tubing. Both of these have an upper temperature limit of about 250 C, or a bit lower (figures from different vendors vary a little bit). I strongly prefer that all temperatures stay below 200 C; I prefer about 120 C.
Basically what is needed is a balance. Heat coming down the Heat Shunt from the flames should match the heat required to vaporize the fuel as it enters the stove body. Now, to get this balance in the range from a very low flame to a very high flame is a bit tricky. By this stage I was doing a fair bit of temperature measurement using my marvelous LabJack data logger. The graph here shows what is going on and some of the problems (and the value of real measurements). It does not represent the final V4 stove design of course.
Now, what do the measurements look like?

The blue line labeled ‘HS’ is the temperature near the top of the heat shunt (but not in the flame). The red line labeled ‘Body’ is for the stove body. At the start the fuel feed (at a low power) was gas, not liquid, the stove heated up, and the canister cooled a bit. Around 9 minutes (just an experiment) the canister was inverted and vaporizing the liquid fuel started to take energy from the stove body. The body started to cool down, dragging the splash plate down with it. Yes, they are coupled.
Around 13 minutes the power was turned up a fair bit, more liquid fuel came in, and more energy was sucked out of the stove body. Around 16 minutes the stove body had cooled to just over 40 C in my lab at about +20 C. In the snow the stove would be hovering on flaring. Now I know what is going on, and how to measure it.
Since most of this work is done in my lab at +20 C rather than in the snow at -20C, I needed some way of converting the results from ‘lab’ to ‘snow’. It seemed reasonable to just subtract 40 C from the measurements. This is not perfect of course, but close enough. And remember: the ‘boiling point’ of a 70/30 mix of n-butane and propane is around -24 C. Below that everything gets a bit more tricky, and I go home anyhow.
V5 Design
This was meant to be a simpler burner head to replace the commercial ones in the V4, and to be simpler4, but in the end nothing gelled well enough. Part of the problem was that I lacked the facility for hot forging of sheet titanium (while Asian factories have that). I can form sheet aluminium, but it melts too easily. Pass on.
V6: another Vortex burner
And so I returned to the Vortex Burner concept. It would seem simple since it does not need a Heat Shunt. However, there were some complications I wanted to examine. Obviously the stove body has to get hot enough to (very) reliably vaporize the liquid fuel. You do not want any flaring inside a tent in a snow-storm. So – measurements.
In particular, I was monitoring the temperature of the stove body, where the fuel comes in, and the flat (base) plate between the stove body and the titanium burner chamber. My theory at the time was that the flames heated the base plate, and that the base plate heated the stove body bolted to it. It turned out that there is a bit more to it than this. Anyhow, this graph shows the stove heating a litre of water in my Trangia kettle, but with a twist.

What might appear strange in this graph is that the stove body (blue) seems to have got hotter than the base plate (red). Normally the plate should be 20 – 40 degrees hotter than the stove body. The explanation is simple: the temperature probe for the base plate is a fair distance from the stove body, right out at the edge of a largish base plate, and was subject to air cooling. You do get such cooling when everything is above 100 C! As this shows, understanding what is going on and exactly what is being measured is essential.
The important bit from this graph is that the stove body got just a bit above 120 C and no further. Given that this was measured in my lab, at an ambient of +20 C, it would be reasonable to say that the stove body would still be at +80 C or more when in the snow with an ambient at -20 C. That is, subtract 40 C from everything. Nonetheless, the stove body is far above the boiling point of liquid butane, which is around 0 C. This is ‘satisfactory’.
An important detail which is not apparent from any of this concerns the air flow into the chamber. A small excess amount of air mixing with the fuel is fine: it ensures complete combustion and avoids the release of the deadly carbon monoxide CO. On the other hand a larger excess of incoming air just has to be heated up without contributing anything to the flames. An excess is simply a drag on the flame temperature, reducing the efficiency. Also, the excess air made lighting the stove difficult (explanation later). A balanced amount of air is needed.
The final design of the V6 is shown here. I sold some of them.

V7: SUL
By this stage I thought I had finished designing stoves, but a little demon crept in and got me wondering about SUL. To be sure, commercial remote inverted canister stoves are all heavier, while mine are generally about 90 g. But I wondered: how low could I go? I started to fiddle.
First up, it seemed that a Vortex Stove would not be a candidate for SUL, so I focused on the V1 design: a base with an upright burner. I could see several areas where an upgrade would be possible. A lighter canister connector, a lighter hose, a lighter stove body, and a lighter burner head.
I will briefly mention the hose. Commercial manufacturers don’t want to mess around: they buy high temperature reinforced fuel hose by the reel. This stuff was made for the race car people: it is very ‘robust’ and stiff and abrasion-resistant. Well, fine for race cars, but what has that to do with my little stoves? A bonus maybe is that it is mostly proof against novice users as well. I wanted better. Some PFA tubing with 2.0 mm outside diameter with some custom stainless steel braid was chosen: a bit thinner than the 3.2 mm PFA hose I had used on previous models.
This project ended up as V7, weighing only 45 g complete. It uses a BRS-3000T burner as the lightest available, plus the BRS-3000T has its own pot supports. The design needed a stove support of course, and this needed to be detachable for packing.

I had to use a lot of data logging in designing the Heat Shunt, to get balanced heat flow at OK temps. First of all, in my excessive enthusiasm for weight reduction, I had dispensed with the Heat Exchanger part of the stove body see previous stove articles). That did not work! Then I had to pick the right Al alloy for high thermal conductivity. The common 5005 alloy proved significantly better for this than the 5082 alloy I had been using. Then I had to design the top bit where the flames hit, to get heat into the shunt. What was interesting here was that at low power the flames hit the heat shunt nicely, but at high power the flames could go past the heat shunt – just when more energy was needed to vaporize the increased flow of fuel. This was soon solved: I bent the tip of the heat shunt slightly into the flames. You can see this in the photo.
My NEW V8 Vortex stove
I had a number of queries here: could one even make an SUL vortex burner for a start. That concerns the size of the burner chamber: would a mini-burner-chamber work? A second query was whether I could make the legs or pot supports more elegant (or more sexy if you wish).

This photo shows some (not all) of the burner chambers I tested. But first let me deal with the other bits of the stove. I won’t cover the ‘new’ canister connector as that has been well covered in the V7 article. That leaves the hose and the legs.
The Hose
This uses PFA hose 2×1 mm. It was well covered in the V7 article, so I will just mention two small details.
The connectors at the two ends are now mostly symmetrical or the same, with plug-shaped ends or ‘inners’. The hose is 2.0 mm and the O-rings on it are 2.0 mm thick. That gives a total OD of 6.0 mm. The bore they go into is 5.6 mm. The difference is 0.2 mm on each side, which is 10% of the O-ring thickness, and meets the standard industry recommendation for O-ring compression (to get a good seal).
The braid is custom stainless steel, made for me in Taiwan. The crimp rings which hold the braid to the extension of the inner plug use a soft aluminium alloy which is just the right size for this. The diameter of the bit of the inner which holds the braid was adjusted to suit the available aluminium tubing.
The crimping was done with another one of my crimp tools. The strength of the result was tested again: one does not want the braid sliding off.

The shiny bit below the hanging pin vise is a crimped bit of hose and braid. It is supporting 3 house bricks, which total about 9.5 kgf (21 lbf). That is enough.
The Legs
The legs on the V6 stove (shown here) were strong and functional, but they were not what I could call ‘elegant’. To be sure, they were very able to support a pot for 2 or 3 people.

The vertical part of the leg runs from the pot direct to the ground, and will not buckle. They are almost ‘too strong’. If I sacrificed a tiny bit of rigidity (not much), what could be done? Let us leap ahead past many experiments.

It did seem to me that the titanium Z-shaped legs are more elegant. The very short bits of aluminium that hold the bits of wire and pivot off the base plate are also far more elegant (and stronger). Ignore the M3 bolts holding the legs to the base plate: once the design was finalized they were replaced with suitable pop-rivets.
In coming up with this design I had to overcome some aesthetic problems. The first was that the simplest pivot leg held the Ti wire ‘off-centre’. That is, the wire did not point to the centre of the stove, but rather to one side. Aesthetics.

The photo on the left shows this. Some fiddling around with the design got the leg wire on the pivot axis, as on the right. At the same time the use of two crimps (left) was simplified to one crimp and one tight hole (right). The bend in the aluminium was done in my pan brake bender with a precise stop.
The crimp itself is worth mentioning: it has to be tight to stop the wire sliding around. I found that one of my crimp tools originally meant for electrical connections had a crimp-hole size just right for this. After crimping, the aluminium tab holds the Titanium wire quite tightly.
This titanium wire is 2.4 mm diameter. I also had 1.0 mm and 1.6 mm wire. The 1.6 mm wire was just a bit too bendy for my liking, so I am using the 2.4 mm wire. It is too hard to bend by hand to any degree of precision, so it is shaped in a custom wire bender I made for the job. This means every leg is identical (so to speak). With the custom wire bender, making each leg takes well under half a minute.
The Chamber and the Base Plate
I tried various smaller diameters of tubing (picture at the start of this section) for the chamber, but none of them seemed to work well enough. Why not? Examining the operation of a 25 mm chamber (copper pipe at the left of the picture), I found the flame did not make a sufficiently reliable vortex inside. On the other hand, perhaps it could work as pseudo-upright, but unfortunately the stove body still did not reliably get hot enough. A pity about that. I suspect the whole thing was just too close to all sorts of physical limits, like there was not enough room inside for the gas dynamics of a vortex flame.
Then I tried some 32 mm tube (also Ti, in middle). This gave a better flame than the 25 mm tube, but the vortex inside was not really reliable enough. Also, the only 32 mm Ti tube I could find on ebay had a 1 mm wall thickness. (Copper water pipe on the right of the Ti was readily available, but obviously very heavy.) The 1 mm wall thickness made the Ti tubing heavier than 38×0.5 mm Ti tubing (on the right) which I had been using before. So I was back to using the 38×0.5 tube – which I had in stock.
I found that both the shape and the area of the air inlets inside the chamber were significant. Much experiment followed. Logging the temperature of the aluminium base plate and the aluminium stove body with my LabJack data logger meant I could really see what was happening. The sensors used here are tiny NTC glass-bead thermistors, good to about 300 C. (Not the more readily available epoxy-encapsulated ones: the epoxy fails above 125 C. That is messy.)

In this photo the thermistor for the base plate is inside the black ‘holder’ just to the left of the burner chamber. That is a copper tube bolted to the base plate and insulated with some black heat-shrink. The thermistor holder for the stove body is bolted to the stove body in the same way, but it is out of sight below the base. The white wires coiled up behind the stove are rather nice Teflon-coated (I think) thermistor leads: there are more of them than are being used here. (They come in bags of 10 on ebay.) The stove itself is on a wooden stand for testing. The rim is red hot, and the splash plate at the top nearly the same.
Anyhow, I shrank the aluminium base plate a bit: this was not a worry as those changes were all outside the burner chamber. Then I modified the design of the air inlet near the jet to vary the air flow. This change turned out to be rather consequential and took a lot of testing with much data logging. For instance, in this graph you can see where I varied the power level up and down in one test run.

This test run started with a gas feed (canister sitting upright), which was allowed to persist until about 250 seconds, when the canister was inverted. The 250 seconds is far longer than one should use in the field of course: I was distracted. The two temperatures rose steadily until the canister was inverted (250 sec) – when the amount of energy required to vaporize the incoming liquid fuel proved to be significant. The temperature rises stopped, with the stove body temperature really being limited. Around 320 seconds the power level or fuel flow was raised, when the temperature of the stove body actually fell a bit. This fall was despite the slight rise in the base plate temperature. Yes, there was more energy from the flames to the base plate and flowing from there into the stove body, but more fuel incoming meant more energy was being extracted out to vaporize the liquid fuel.
The next graph shows a test with a very short burner chamber. The splash plate is now closer to the base plate. The flames were pushed down by the lower splash plate to touch the base plate directly, with the contact transferring much greater amounts of energy from the flames.

In this case the stove was started with a gas feed (so no flaring), and switched to a liquid feed around 70 seconds. (There is a faint wiggle in the green curve.) The effect on the temperatures was barely noticeable as the heat radiating downwards was large. The two temperatures rose steadily. Around 200 seconds the power (fuel flow) was raised. One might expect (from the previous graph) that the temperature of the stove body would fall slightly due to the increased amount of energy needed to vaporize the increased amount of liquid fuel coming in, but not in this case. Instead the base plate got even hotter, and so did the stove body. It was touching 200 C when I shut the stove down: that is far too hot for the long-term health of the Viton O-rings and the PFA hose. I think the problem was the very low height of the burner chamber: that pushed the flames down too close to the base plate.
However, interpreting the results was not always that simple. This next case shows what can happen (and often does).
In this case the stove body was a bit warmer than the base plate due to a previous test. Ignore that, and look at what happened around 280 seconds. This was where the canister was switched off, and there was no more incoming fuel to vaporize. At this point the base plate was a lot hotter than the stove body, so heat still poured from the base plate to the stove body. Lacking any heat loss to incoming fuel, the stove body temperature climbed significantly, while the base plate cooled down quickly. When the base plate got a fraction colder than the stove body, around 325 seconds, both started cooling down.
The data presented so far implies that all the heat flow is through the base plate to the stove body, but this assumption became untenable after a while. It seemed that quite a bit of the heat flow was actually going through the brass jet, which was sticking up through the base plate, fully exposed to the flames, and not as shiny as the aluminium. It was absorbing a fair bit of heat.

Looking at the photo here (yes, a V6 model, but it makes no difference), one can see that the splash plate on top is glowing red. This creates radiation down on the top of the jet as well as conduction by contact with the flame – if it is exposed. This would heat the jet and the stove body. So I designed something to test this idea.
I tested this idea by putting a tiny aluminium cap over the jet (with a hole for the gas through the middle of course) to block radiation and contact with the flames for the jet. This did lower the temperature of the stove body, but a loose cap over the jet was (obviously) not viable in the field, where it could get lost so easily. More creativity was required.
So I lowered the jet to below the base plate, and put a small hole for the gas in the plate. This worked to reduce the temperature of the stove body, but it created a problem and a large risk. The problem was how to remove the jet if/when it needed clearing – without completely disassembling the stove. OK, so make a larger hole and put a removable (rotates off to one side) cover plate over the jet, again with a hole in the middle for the gas to come through. This worked, but it created a very big risk. If any gas got deflected under the base plate, it would create a flame under the stove. This risk became a certainty if the hole in the cover was not in exactly the right place: lots of gas could be deflected sideways.
I have no pretty coloured 3D CAD pictures for these design changes as I find 3D CAD is too slow: instead I do most of the design in my head and use a simple 2D sketch program to record it. Then I program my CNC by hand.
Despite these minor problems, it did seem as though the jet was sending a lot of heat into the stove body. How else could I cool it down? The next idea was to radically change the design of the air inlet. Instead of having two or three air holes around the jet (top row below), I would have one rectangular hole right over the jet (bottom row). This meant that the incoming air blasted the jet before being dragged upwards and this air cooled the jet down.

Detail note: the 4 off M2 bolts holding the burner chamber in this stove to the square base plate are clearly visible in the bottom left photo. The top row shows 3 bolt holes. Having only 3 holes was a bit inconvenient.
The idea of the air-cooled jet had some merit, but was it enough? Perhaps I could put the brass part down low but have the gas jet higher up? This was possible with some hypodermic tubing, as shown below. There should be ample room for air-cooling of the hypodermic jet and much less contact with the flames.

Short answer: it did not work. The jet and the gas flow were now so far above the rectangular air inlet, visible around the brass jet body, that it was no longer dragging enough air in. Lots of wobbly orange flames instead: just not good enough.
Along the way, while playing around with the size of the air inlet, I found (yet) another problem. If the fuel jet was sucking too much air into the chamber, the high gas flow out the top tended to blow out the flame on my Bic lighter. The gas might (rarely) get lit above the stove, but not inside the burner chamber where I wanted it. Clearly, one has to start with very low fuel flow, entraining only a little air. One could use a movable baffle to cut the air flow for starting (shades of the choke on an IC engine), but this is more complicated and one could lose the baffle in the field. Also, I found that the baffle got too hot for my fingers to adjust.
A solution was of course found: slightly shrink the size of the air inlet and start the stove on a very low setting. The combination reduces the blast of air past the Bic flame enough that the stove lights – neatly. Once there is a flame inside the chamber it is possible to turn the stove up a little bit. No, not full bore straight away: wait until the top rim or the splash plate is glowing a bit.
In all of this, and while working on V6 some time ago, I had considered the gap under the bottom rim to be insignificant. This gap is created by some M2 washers only 0.4 mm thick, placed on the M2 holding bolts to more or less isolate the very hot burner chamber from the base plate. The green lines point to them. I had never tested how well this worked.

While considering this matter of air flow, I tried increasing the air gap under the bottom rim by making much fatter ‘washers’. In fact, the gap was seriously increased by replacing the washers with 2 mm thick M2.5 nuts. Well, that was a very easy way to do it. So I tested the idea.

This graph is for the gap of 2.0 mm. The result was nothing short of startling: it could take a lot of priming to reach a stove body temperature high enough to allow conversion to a liquid feed if working in the snow. A very big OOPS! Or maybe ‘the light dawns’?
It made me rethink the whole matter of air flow: obviously a lot of air was coming in under the rim with this big gap – and it would still be coming in under a smaller gap. This ‘cold’ air was blowing over the base plate under the rim and had been cooling it down!
In addition, the vast excess of air coming in would be making the flames much cooler, which was not the objective at all. This is because so much energy would be taken up in heating the excess air, making the stove less efficient. It was time to consider some of the dimensions which were not all that well controlled in the past. That is, it was time for more focused trials.
The Effect of Dimensions
Two dimensions which have been discussed under previous stoves are jet size and Heat Exchanger clearance (at the hose end of the stove body).
Jet size is the major determinant of stove power: the more fuel burning, the hotter the stove. Stove design has very little to do with this. A very common jet size for many brands (including my own designs) is about 0.3 mm. This has to be drilled.

A 0.3 mm drill bit is very small, as you can see here. Swiss drill bits help.
We move on to the Heat Exchanger (HX). HX clearance affects how well the liquid fuel is vaporized, and has been covered in previous articles. Basically, the HX rod fills a hole just slightly larger in diameter, so the fuel travels past it in thin film around the edge, touching the stove body, and being vaporized.

The photo on the left shows the dark empty hole for the Heat Exchanger (HX) rod; on the right the HX rod is in the hole. The thin gap between the HX rod and stove body is where the fuel flows, and it has been highlighted in red.
If the clearance between the HX rod and the hole in the stove body is too big, not all the fuel will be vaporised properly before it reaches the needle valve. For a more detailed discussion of this, read the articles on the V6 and V7 stoves. In practice the rod is 3.0 mm diameter and the hole is 3.2 mm, leaving a gap of 0.1 mm all around. If the HX rod is lost (it happens), then the stove tends to flare all the time.
Clearly the gap under the rim of the burner chamber will also be significant. I tested gaps of 0 mm, 0.3 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm, 1.4 mm, 2.0 mm and 4.0 mm (and used up a lot of gas in the process). Two things became clear. The first is that the gap under the rim does allow some extra air to be entrained by the jet, and this extra air is significant. If the gap is too large, and excess of air is pulled in. Equally, if a zero gap is used (direct contact between burner chamber and base plate) no air is pulled in, but it turned out that this has a significant effect.
I did once (years ago) try to get heat flowing down an aluminium burner column to the canister underneath in an upright stove, but I failed totally. The flow of air through the air inlets near the base of the burner column was enough to totally block the flow of heat into the canister, or rather to absorb all the available energy coming downwards. This is exactly the same as how air coming in through the air holes in an upright burner cools the base, allowing you to unscrew it immediately you turn the stove off. The same effect occurs here: the flow of air under the rim significantly cools the base plate. This flow and this cooling do not happen with a zero gap, letting the base plate quickly climb to 200 C. (See first graph above, V8_57.) I had to quickly shut the stove down at this point or risk damage to the Viton O-ring and the PFA hose.
I found that a gap of about 0.6 mm gave a good result, and this could be done very easily by using 2 off 0.3 mm M2 washers on every M2 bolt.

The canister was inverted around 80 seconds, the power was tweaked just a little around 200 seconds, and then turned to high around 320 seconds. The temperature of the stove body fell slightly when turned up to full power – as expected. The stove was turned off around 430 seconds and the cooling effect of the incoming fuel was lost. Heat from the hotter base plate then made the stove body hotter – for a little while.

Finally, what about the diameter of the splash plate? I tested quite a few different diameters, and found that the diameter actually did not have a huge effect. Making the splash plate larger meant the gap between it and the top rim smaller, and it did seem as though this pushed the flames down a bit, to heat the base plate a bit more. But anything between 28 mm and 32 mm for the diameter seemed to work fairly well. The graph V8_66 above was for a 28 mm splash plate.











































































