Articles (2020)

Book Review: The Ultralight Backpacker

Book Review: The Ultralight Backpacker

The Ultralight Backpacker, by Ryel Kestenbaum. Ragged Mountain Press (2001), 139 pages (softbound, illustrated), $15.95. ISBN 0-07-136828-0.

Book Outline (Table of Contents)

Introduction: The Ultralight Way
1. Backpacks
2. Shelter
3. Sleeping Bags
4. Footwear
5. Clothing
6. The Rest of the Gear
7. Food
8. Health and Safety
9. Walking
10. The Ultralight State of Mind
11. On the Long-Distance Trail
Appendix 1. An Ultralighter’s Overnight Pack
Appendix 2. Manufacturers and Suppliers
Appendix 3. World Wide Web Resources

Synopsis

The cover of The Ultralight Backpacker states: “The complete guide to simplicity and comfort on the trail.” In our view this claim is overstated, as this slender book, 138 pages long, can be read in an afternoon and is far from complete and will likely disappoint the experienced lightweight backpacker yearning for new information about equipment and techniques not treated in other texts. However, for the newcomer to lightweight backpacking, The Ultralight Backpacker will not disappoint – it provides an introduction to lightweight backpacking that will certainly put you on the right track to shedding pounds from your pack.

In-Depth Review

Writing Style

The book was written in an informal, conversational writing style. Perhaps this was intended to engage the reader with its informality. A minority of our reviewers enjoyed the tone, claiming that it made for easy reading. To the rest of our review panel, however, this style detracted from the message and did not convey a sense of authority that is a hallmark characteristic of serious how-to writers. All of us were somewhat surprised that the book came from Ragged Mountain Press, which usually offers professionally-written titles.

Content Overview

Kestenbaum is a former outdoor retail shop employee, and his bias towards heavily-marketed, commercially-available equipment is reflected in his discussions of gear choices and the gear list he presents in an appendix. To his credit, he did include several pictures of a hiker carrying a GVPGear G4 pack; on the other hand, the G4 was mentioned nowhere in the text. Missing from the book is any serious discussion about homemade equipment, which must be addressed if any ultralight backpacking guide is to be considered “complete.” Thus, we would have liked to have seen recognition of gear from both cottage industry manufacturers and do-it-yourselfers, which are as responsible for advancing the lightweight hiking movement as any Backpacker Magazine advertiser.

If you are a traditional backpacker not yet well versed in lightweight backpacking practices – and we know there are many such – The Ultralight Backpacker will provide a general overview of equipment and techniques to get you started, including information about how to compare items at your local outfitter’s. However, if you are an experienced lightweight backpacker, you are unlikely to learn new skills or gain significant new insight. You will note, for example, that Kestenbaum does not provide a serious analysis of the real-world performance of different types of gear, taking care instead to discuss the most heavily-marketed products in a given category; we find ourselves wondering to what extent he has had the opportunity to explore the full variety of approaches to ultralight equipment and technique currently in practice. This is most evident in the clothing chapter, which promotes a traditional system of layering (synthetic wicking base layer, fleece insulating mid layer, and waterproof-breathable outer shell layer). Kestenbaum touts windproof fleece (without mentioning either unlined or lined windshirts) and Patagonia Regulator insulation as some of “the most exciting new fabrics to come on the market,” but he fails to include synthetic or down high-loft insulation as a lighter, more compressible alternative to fleece. To his credit, he does question the practicality of waterproof-breathable shell clothing, preferring either the less expensive polypropylene rain gear or well-vented waterproof-nonbreathable garments, but he doesn’t treat the subject in enough detail to offer new insight to an experienced backpacker. Given the products and information currently available, we expected a more comprehensive discussion of different alternatives in a new book.

Most of the chapters are devoted to the discussion of equipment, as expected. Although some on-trail technique is addressed in those chapters, technique (food and nutrition, health and safety, and walking) is the focus of a much smaller (30-page) section. From our perspective, there is much for the ultralight backpacker to master in these crucial areas, and the information in such a brief section is necessarily superficial, leaving the reader with too little guidance about how to apply lightweight practices in the field. The book proceeds to discuss ultralight philosophy in a six-page chapter on the “ultralight state of mind” (treating a potpourri of subjects from meditation to leave-no-trace wilderness ethics); and it ends with an eight-page chapter on long distance hiking, concerning itself mainly with a conventional approach to physical training.

One of Kestenbaum’s core principles, expressed time and again throughout the book, is the importance of being strictly in tune with nature, so that the hiker leaves every luxury out of the pack, including books, a camp chair, and even toilet paper. While only a small minority of backpackers would hold rigidly to this line, we appreciate the way this perspective reminds us why we go into the wilderness in the first place.

Conclusion

Our litmus test for value in a how-to book is a simple one: does it offer new insight or a unique perspective into lightweight backpacking philosophy, technique, or equipment that has not been addressed in earlier texts?

Unfortunately, we felt that Kestenbaum’s attempt to develop a guide to ultralight backpacking fell short of our expectations in this respect. Even so, although The Ultralight Backpacker is not comprehensive or original enough to become a major and authoritative new reference source, it might still earn a place in your home library, simply because it is one person’s perspective on lightweight backpacking, against which you can further articulate your own, and because you will undoubtedly find tidbits of information in it that will make you a better hiker. Despite our overall disappointment, even we, serious students and practitioners of lightweight backpacking, found some valuable tips that we can apply on the trail.

We are all still learning, and we learn from each other. And for that, Mr. Kestenbaum, we offer our sincere and heartfelt thanks for your courageous contribution to our field.

The Laughing Curmudgeon’s Guide to Going Light

The Laughing Curmudgeon’s Guide to Going Light

1. Do you already have gear?

If “yes” go to item “1a.” If “no” go to item “1a” anyway.

1a. DON’T BUY ANYTHING, YET!

You’ll only end up replacing it later.

If you have no gear, you probably haven’t backpacked much, so go slowly until you discover whether you really like backpacking or not. Not everyone does. Go to item “2.”

If you have gear, keep it until you know there’s something lighter that fits your personal needs. There might not be, and you may have to modify something you already have. Go to item “3.”

2. Read Ray Jardine’s book, Beyond Backpacking.

Don’t take it too seriously, as gear selection is a highly personal thing and Ray is into the “guru” thing. He will offer one perspective.

Subscribe to the BackpackingLight Email Group (www.yahoogroups.com/group/backpackinglight). There you will find a wealth of perspectives. Lurk. Think. Link. Ask. Ask again. If you like what someone says and how they say it, ask them to send you their gear list. Get at least three different lists, and ask the owners to explain why they made certain selections. You can do this on or off-line. Don’t worry about bothering these folks; most of them love the attention.

Read gear reviews, but remember that commercial magazines are in the business of selling their advertisers’ gear. When you think you know what you want, find a way to try it out before buying. Borrow. Rent. Buy only what you can return in good condition if you don’t like it.

Get an inexpensive scale. Weigh everything and keep adding it all up. Try stuff out in your living room, then your back yard.

Then think about it some more.

3. Go Back to #2 One More Time

You’re going to have to reform your thinking. After all, you bought all that heavy stuff in the first place. Then go to item ”4.”

4. The Practice that Never…Ever…Ends

a. Make a list of all your gear. Include two blank columns on the list entitled “used” and “didn’t use.”

b. At the end of each trip for the next year make two piles of gear on your living room rug – one for the stuff you actually used and one for the stuff you didn’t. Put a check in the appropriate column for each piece of gear. Think about why you did or did not use it.

c. Underline on your gear list each piece of gear that you did not use because you didn’t need it, or did use only because you had it with you.

d. On each successive trip, leave behind one piece of gear that you didn’t use because you didn’t need it, or did use only because you had it with you. See how it feels. Don’t be a slave to this process and fail to take essential clothing, first aid or health maintenance supplies, but subject all these things, too, to the same scrutiny.

e. At the end of the year make a new list of the gear you absolutely have to take with you in order to be comfortable and feel safe.

f. Reread item “2,” then replace each item on your new gear list with the lightest, most functional and multi-functional product that you can afford. If a piece of gear is not commercially available or is out of your price range consider modifying the gear you have or making your own.

g. Don’t take any of this too seriously. Have fun. Whatever gear you have, get outside and use it.

Face-Off: First Aid and Emergency Gear

Face-Off: First Aid and Emergency Gear

Introduction

There are a few categories of equipment that can be the subject of hostile discussion around a campfire. First aid and emergency equipment certainly are among them. We’ve met hikers with first aid / emergency kits ranging from a baggie full of Band-Aids to five-pound expedition kits.

The purpose of this article is to highlight some of the differences in first aid and emergency equipment selection among three self-proclaimed “lightweight” hikers that reflect opinions on the subject that span a broad spectrum between “conservative” and “why the heck do I need this?”

We’ll start with Bill and Dave critiquing each other until Ryan joins in, no longer able to tolerate the banter.

The Debate
Dave’s List

Dave’s Rationale: Over the last several years, my business has taken me all over the United States. On these trips, I have been lucky enough to find the opportunity to hike extensively in areas that were totally new to me. Unfortunately, I also tend to push my personal envelope a bit and have a unique talent for getting lost. When I go hiking with other folks, they are usually newbies who don’t have a lot of outdoor skills, don’t always have the best equipment, and often push themselves a bit harder then they should. Being well prepared is essential for where and how I hike, so I carry 25 ounces of preparedness for those times when things didn’t go smoothly.

These items, along with my general equipment, help me handle a wide range of medical problems. My goals in selection are:

  1. Management of the little ailments that can spoil a trip, e.g., blisters, diarrhea, stings, cuts, minor pains, etc.
  2. Treatment for moderate problems and control of major pain so that a walk out is possible.
  3. Stabilization of larger problems and control of major pain until a rescue can occur.

Dave’s List

First Aid Supplies

  • Pain meds in a film canister with instructions – Ibuprofen, Percogesic (325 mg acetaminophen and 30 mg phenyltoloxamine citrate), Percocet
  • Decongestant and antihistamine tablets in a film canister with instructions – Benadryl, pseudoephedrine
  • Digestive system meds in a film canister with instructions – Imodium, Tums
  • Topical Meds – Alcohol prep pads, Iodine prep pads, Triple antibiotic ointment, Ophthalmic ointment, Burn ointment, 20% benzocaine gel
  • Blister kit in a small Ziploc – Spenco adhesive knit (moleskin), knife w/scissors, Bioclusive breathable dressing, Curad Blistercare pads
  • Closure kit – Coverstrip closures, bandaids, Small straight hemostats, Sutures (#3 and #5 in gut and nylon)
  • Sterile gauze pads, 1″ breathable plastic tape, 3 oz. bulb irrigation syringe, .5oz 10% povidone-iodine solution, pencil
  • Pair latex gloves

Survival Equipment

  • Two one-gallon freezer ziploc bags
  • Fire starters in a waterproof wrapping – lighter, matches, tinder
  • Signal mirror, marine type signal whistle, LED light
  • Water purifying tabs
  • Large garden trash bag

Repair Supplies

  • Duct tape
  • Hot patch repair kit , needle, dental floss, 4 large nylon wire ties, 4 small nylon wire ties
  • 2 x AAA batteries
  • Pouch for carrying Emergency/first aid kit

BILL THORNELOE: Dave, your list is excellent and quite reasonable, particularly given the weight. I suspect that our kits look quite similar, but this kit may be closer to the contents of my top compartment Ziploc bag. This would serve someone very well, but I suspect that there is duplication and some outdated equipment here.

DAVID SCHULTZ: It could be that my relative inexperience in the healing arts leads me to be overly cautious. I know that if I mishandle a small problem, my lack of skill and experience means that I have a higher chance of failure if the condition worsens. This is why I emphasize items needed to clean and disinfect a wound.

BILL: Why carry moleskin and Bioclusive dressings and Curad blister pads? Why not just the Bioclusive dressings?

DAVE: While the Bioclusive dressings are very useful in that they are waterproof and breathable, they are relatively fragile and do not breathe well when compared to the non waterproof, but tougher, Spenco Adhesive knit. So for ultra heavy sweaters like myself, I find that the Adhesive knit works better. For low perspiring folks like my wife, Bioclusive dressing keeps the blister clean in a relatively dirty environment. I also use the Bioclusive dressing for covering cuts and other non-weeping wounds.

BILL: Why carry both Percogesic and Percocet, neither of which will treat major pain (I carry two 20-mg OxyContin tabs)?

DAVE: The only reason I carry the Percogesic (over-the-counter or OTC med), is that my wife tends to get an upset stomach from ibuprofen. I have found Percocet (prescription or RX med containing acetaminophen and the narcotic oxycodone) to be quite effective on moderate to severe pain and far more effective than any non RX meds available. Certainly there are stronger alternatives (OxyContin 40, MS Contin 30, etc.), but not being a medical professional, I have limited access to RX meds. Before moving, I had a long relationship with my family physician and getting a few RX meds was not such a problem. Now I must use a large and impersonal managed care group and can no longer acquire RX meds for a field kit.

BILL: Why carry iodine prep pads, alcohol pads, povidone-iodine solutions and water treatment tabs? I can see the povidone to help adhesion of skin closures…but the rest?

DAVE: It is far easier to use a prep pad to disinfect a small area than it is to mix up some povidone-iodine solution. But, if I had to clean or irrigate a larger wound, the prep pads would not be sufficient, so I carry both. I am intrigued with the idea of using the water treatment tabs to mix up a batch of wound irrigant/disinfectant. This deserves exploration. Omiting the povidone-iodine will save about an ounce.

BILL: Why carry the extra and non-waterproof packaging of sterile gauze pads, instead of a plastic wrapped Kling roll gauze?

DAVE: Ease of use and sterility.

BILL: Why breathable tape and duct tape and skin closures?

DAVE: You’ve got a good point here, Bill. I could lose the breathable tape. I’ll keep the Cover Strips though. They are quick and easy to use.

BILL: Why carry gut sutures as any “stitches” will be removed and revised on arrival at the emergency room (ER)? I suspect the nylon or silk suture (I carry but did not list) would be more visible and also useful for gear repairs. Heck, a curved needle and the dental floss could service in a crisis.

DAVE: Again, good point. The main reason that I carry a few gut sutures is that I learned that they were preferable for use in severe mouth lacerations. Granted, I have never run into such an injury. I imagine this could be very tricky.

BILL: Why carry a heavy first aid kit package when you have 2 gallon Ziplocs as well as latex gloves (i.e., for an emergency water container)?

DAVE: I used to use Ziplocs, but found that they were beat up so much that they were often replaced.

BILL: Why bring an irrigation bulb? I would use my Platypus and tubing to direct the flow, and squeeze the bag for more pressure.

DAVE: Excellent idea for when I am in a group. It will save 3 ounces. When I go solo, however, I usually only carry one bladder and no backup water container.

BILL: Have you considered orthopedic injuries and means of splinting or otherwise stabilizing a fracture?

DAVE: I considered carrying a SAM splint, but figured I could improvise by cutting up my closed cell foam pad and using duct tape, poles from my Nomad shelter, sticks, etc.

BILL: Overall, I believe I am picking nits on these questions. I suspect our real gear is identical, and that the choices of medications, wound treatments and such are solely personal preferences.

Bill’s List

Bill’s Rationale: My first aid kit responds to three questions. – First, what happens if I lose all or part of my gear? – Secondly, what are the most likely medical problems I will encounter? – Thirdly, what am I carrying that can be used for more than its intended use? I should know my gear and be able to accurately assess a wound or emergency. If I do not understand a piece of gear, it should be left at home. Without understanding the hazard, I am likely to make the situation worse by trying to intervene blindly. The most likely acute emergency will be trauma. I anticipate falls, fractures, bruises, abrasions, stings and bites. Burns may happen, but preparation for other trauma provides gear for this. Digestive tract (GI) distress with upset stomach, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea likely to impede my walk. I prepare for dehydration, hypothermia and hyperthermia. Infection concerns come next, addressed by water purification, hand cleaning, toilet hygiene, and wound cleansing. Finally, I consider comfort issues like sun burn. What would happen if I lost everything by the trail while I go for water? If I broke my ankle slipping on a mud bank by a creek bed, I would need to be able to alert someone of my location, stay warm, and avoid bleeding and shock. Hence, my lanyard kit. A lanyard or pocket kit, always with me, would provide for splinting and allow scrambling back to the trail. If I wandered away from a shelter wearing my fanny pack from the top of my pack, the contents of the top pocket would make a similar injury easier to manage. I also have the beginnings of good treatment for other problems including temperature regulation and dehydration. Unfortunately, dehydration and temperature problems are often first detected by confusion and cognitive deterioration. I have not figured out a reliable means for a solo hiker to recognize when their brain is going South, much less how to intervene. The closest I have found is attention to the UMBLES – Grumble, Mumble, Fumble, & Stumble – treated initially with sitting down in the shade, drinking water and assessing the circumstances. My clothing and backpack are integral to trauma care. I can fashion slings and braces for a variety of upper extremity injuries, dislocations and lacerations (cuts and scrapes) with clothing and well placed diaper pins. I can rig a splint with back pack stays and trekking poles using the closed cell mat or clothing to cushion the splint. I could even rig a litter with trekking poles or available sticks, clothing and diaper pins. My tent and sleeping bag are excellent for treatment of hypothermia, along with a warm cup of Jello. My water treatment and Platypus bags give me disinfectant, means to irrigate and cleanse a wound or foreign body in an eye. There are few GI problems that do not respond to Pepto Bismol, unless they demand a visit to a local emergency room. I carry much more on a canoe trip, especially medications and allergy treatments. When desert hiking, a larger mirror for signaling comes along. I don’t carry a Sawyer Extractor, as I have not been exposed to either severe bee stings or snake bite. Poisonous snake bites require immobilization of the area bitten and evacuation of the patient by the quickest means possible. I don’t carry Epinephrine as I have no history of anaphylaxis (shock) in response to allergy. Anyone with this susceptibility should provide their own and be able to use it immediately.

Bill’s List

Lanyard Kit (worn on me at all times)

  • laminated photo ID
  • whistle
  • Swiss Army clone pen knife, scissors, tweezers
  • compass with mirror
  • Photon light – red
  • Magnesium block and steel
  • 3 feet of nylon cord

Primary First Aid and Emergency Items (in top pocket of pack, stored in a 1-Quart Ziploc bag)

  • 1 emergency mylar blanket
  • 3 pairs of latex gloves, with the following stored in the fingers: one 20 gram tube of Silvadene 3 bandaids for child use 1 roll of Kling gauze 4 inch by 4 yards
  • 1 tin with 8 tabs Aspirin & 2 tabs slow release oral narcotic
  • 1 roll of TUMS
  • 6 tabs Pepto Bismol in foil
  • laminated ID card with inventory, phone numbers, insurance info and medical history info
  • envelope of electrolyte replacement powder and 1 pack of nutrasweet (in weather below 40 degrees)
  • 1 pack of Jello
  • 1 oz tin of bag balm or petroleum jelly
  • 1 bottle of Polar Pure (water treatment and wound disinfectant)
  • 4 packs of Bioclude dressings
  • 4 oz bottle of Purell alcohol hand sanitizer – out of the Ziplock
  • 8oz bottle of honey (excellent sugar source and topical antibiotic)
  • paper and pencil (to record chronology of an emergency)
  • fire starter (long handled lighter which is easier for cold and tired hands)
  • silicone based GOOP adhesive
  • 8 waterproof matches and striker

DAVE: Well Bill, it looks like you’ve got all the bases covered. In comparing each of the items in my kit with their functional equivalent in your kit, my only question is: What do you do if you get a really bad case of the trots? Pepto Bismol just doesn’t have enough “stopping” power, in my experience.

BILL: Severe diarrhea in the backcountry can be deadly, with attendant risks of dehydration and electrolyte disturbances. Sure, Pepto Bismol has limited “cork” potential, but is effective for most mild to moderate events, and should help slow the flow of a severe diarrhea. I aggressively push Pepto until symptoms begin to fade. I expect to use copious water and electrolyte replacement with Nutrasweet to help treat the dehydration, and Gatorade once that is exhausted. I would consider a narcotic, especially if I were already immobilized by diarrhea. Severe diarrhea is like a fracture – it takes us off the trail and on the way to an ER.

DAVE: The main differences I see in our approaches to emergency kits is that mine has a bit more emphasis on convenience and I try to make up for lack of experience with 4-5 oz additional gear.

BILL: I agree with the observation that our “kits” vary only in convenience and compartmentalization. I depend much more on “making do” with items originally designed for other uses. I carry a bit more than needed as I anticipate providing attention to others when on my own walks. This goes with the job. I expect that a first aid kit of a couple of bandaids and a waterproof match would be plenty for many, but too little for my confidence.

RYAN JORDAN: You two are a piece of work. I assumed that I could put two opinionated souls together, give you free license to hammer each other and you end up getting cozy and complimentary. What’s up with that? Are you guys really serious about bringing an entire pound – or pound and a half – of first aid and emergency equipment? So I say, rid yourselves of all the nonessentials, use your head, and what the heck – roll the dice a bit. My kit weighs a paltry 5 ounces.

Ryan’s List

Ryan’s Rationale: I prepare primarily for two things, minor ailments and light weight. Period. I’ll try to use my brain for the big stuff. Sure, that might be risky, but that’s what going light is about.

Ryan’s List

Blister Treatment and Wound Care Supplies

  • Spenco 2nd Skin dressing and adhesive knit, 3 sq. in. of each, primarily for blisters
  • compound tincture of benzoin for a tape adherent
  • a few feet of duct tape
  • two needles
  • kevlar thread
  • tweezers and one tiny pair of scissors from a swiss army classic pocketknife; tweezers for splinters and ticks, scissors for tape cutting
  • two iodine impregnated wipes for wound sterilization
  • triple antibiotic ointment, about 1/3 oz

Medicines

  • ibuprofen, 8 caps
  • acetominophen, 6 caps
  • acetaminophen with codeine, 4 caps
  • Immodium, 4 caps
  • Benadryl, 4 caps
  • menthol throat lozenges, 4

Emergency Survival Equipment

I limit this primarily to a firestarting kit, storm matches, birthday candles, and a mini-Bic lighter in a cardboard match box with extra strikers, vacuum sealed in a heavy waterproof plastic. Also a single mini-LED light (0.3 oz) and a tiny waterproof whistle (0.1 oz) for emergency signaling.

RYAN: That’s it. All of these supplies weigh 5 oz and are stored in a 2” x 4” x 6” bright yellow silnylon stuff sack.

BILL: You have really trimmed your stuff down in the medicine department. Are you willing to rot in place without means of alerting rescue for significant trauma?

RYAN: What do you mean? I carry a Photon single-LED mini-light for signaling (smile). The advertisements say that it’s visible for a mile.

DAVE: Now Ry, I agree that a decrease in weight can lead to an increase in risk, but with all of the wild stuff that you do (much of it solo as I understand), you ought to consider a bit more preparedness.

RYAN: “All that wild stuff?” It’s a matter of perspective. I really toned it down after I become a father! I think it’s high time you explored your wild side, my friend.

BILL: Dave?

DAVE: Bill?

BILL & DAVE: “Git a rope.”

BILL: OK, Ryan, why would you want iodine wipes unless you fail to bring iodine for water purification?

RYAN: What is with you guys and your iodine? It’s time to get with the program and use something that actually works for water disinfection. While iodine is still appropriate for virus protection, viruses are the least of your problems, at least here in the U.S. Bacteria and protozoan cysts (Giardia and Crypto) pose a more serious threat to backcountry water. I opt for a chlorine dioxide chemical kit (e.g., Aqua Mira) due to its greater efficacy towards microorganisms. Hey, thousands of city water treatment plants around the world that are using chlorine dioxide can’t all be wrong. But the bottom line for iodine wipes is this: simplicity of use. Hassling to make a concentrated solution of iodine using Potable Aqua tablets is not my idea of a great time. In addition, with iodine crystals, you also run the risk of incompletely dissolving the crystals when preparing a topical solution. If an undissolved crystal comes into direct contact with flesh, it can cause damage to the tissue via a pretty aggressive oxidation reaction. But that should be just fine with you guys, since y’all are also carrying burn ointment!

BILL: What’s the point of triple antibiotic ointment? “Triple” is useless and potentially dangerous for open wounds. Vaseline or bag balm or skin lotion/sunscreen would be more practical, along with 20 grams of Silvadene for a burn or real infection.

RYAN: The primary purpose of the cream is to provide a barrier to outside contamination – not unlike Vaseline or bag balm as you suggest. The secondary purpose is to disinfect the skin surrounding the wound and preventing these bacteria (e.g., Staphylococcus epidermidis) from colonizing the wound. Most OTC antibiotic creams are ineffective at treating massive wound infections – that is not the purpose here – but they are indeed effective at preventing the onslaught of a wound infection. Remember, the goal with these ointments is preventative treatment, not reactive treatment. As for danger, the antibiotic components of triple antibiotic ointments (which vary somewhat, but may include neomycin, bacitracin, or polymyxin B) can cause kidney damage or renal failure, but in most cases, this is only an issue when administered orally (as is commonly done to treat intestinal infections in pets). Applied topically (i.e., to the eye as part of an opthalmic infection treatment strategy) or to superficial (skin-deep) wounds, the chance that the antibiotics will be absorbed into the bloodstream at a high enough concentration to induce a life-threatening condition is extremely low. I do agree with you, though, that application of this ointment into a deep open wound is probably not a wise decision, since you’ll have a rapid and direct path to the bloodstream. I do like your suggestion for Silvadene when faced with having to treat a serious wound infection that has already exploded.

BILL: Why so much Ibuprofen, Tylenol and Tylenol with codeine?

RYAN: I don’t take meds on the trail for routine conditions like muscle aches. Thus, eight caps of ibuprofen provide two healthy doses to control serious inflammation, as might occur for a sprained ankle. Six caps of Tylenol provide three doses to help tolerate such common problems as severe headache caused by dehydration or acute mountain sickness. Sure, we can be careful and drink our water at regular intervals, or acclimatize by only climbing 1,000 feet per day, but that’s simply not a reality in the mountains.

BILL: The variety of meds you carry enhances the risk of misidentification.

RYAN: Fair enough, but I eat wild mushrooms, too.

BILL: And codeine? It’s too mild and short term and too frequently allergenic to be used reasonably in the backcountry.

RYAN: Each of us reacts differently to narcotics. I respond well (hey, calm down, I’m a clean-livin’ good old boy). Tylenol 3 was successful at quenching the pain of a jumping molar nerve (which subsequently required an emergency root canal) while on a hike. Two years ago, I hiked 40 miles out of an extremely remote area on a broken talus bone (foot) using Tylenol 3, where emergency extrication was an option, but I chose to take the responsibility myself, since the injury wasn’t life-threatening. The fact that Tylenol 3 is mild is the very reason I use it; it provides a nice balance between desensitizing myself to the pain and keeping my head clear enough to make reasonable decisions. Of course, I’m not allergic to it and I certainly don’t administer it to others while in the woods for fear of an allergic reaction.

BILL: Immodium is useful only if diarrhea is the only GI event expected. Why not Pepto tabs?

RYAN: Immodium is a more aggressive plugger-upper than Pepto, and has the power to arrest diarrhea before it begins to severely dehydrate you, which Pepto won’t do in a short time frame. Pepto can handle vomiting for me. I have had adverse reactions to it in the past.

BILL: Throat lozenges? How about some honey or hard candy?

RYAN: You bet. Any of the above. I just like the menthol high that comes with some throat lozenges. The real purpose here is to fend off the Russian Army Hat Tongue and sore throat that often accompany dehydration at altitude. The addition of menthol clears sinuses and nasal passages and for this hay fever-prone hiker, really helps breathing when working hard.

BILL: And Benadryl? For what real purpose?

RYAN: Benadryl offers a few massive (prescription-strength) doses for a bee sting allergy. I’ve not responded well to epi-pens in the past, but have done great with benadryl.

DAVE: So, Ryan, what do you do when you slip off of one of those big rocks that you are so fond of climbing in your cross country treks and tear an eight inch chunk of meat out of your (fill in the body part)? If this is not bad enough, you also abrade a good patch of skin off of your (pick another part). Sure you could just pack the void that used to be filled with flesh with gauze (if you had any) and wrap it up all neat with duct tape. But, how are you going to get the crud out and disinfect that wound? Your iodine wipes just ain’t going to be enough. Adequate cleansing is the most important aspect of wound management…

RYAN: I agree wholeheartedly with the cleansing part. The scenario you describe is similar to one I experienced while hiking near Cimarron, New Mexico, in 1986. I had just climbed a peak and was descending a steep talus slope, lost my footing and tore quite a lot of flesh from my upper thigh in the fall. Treatment required thorough cleansing – it was a very dirty wound – and took about 3 hours. My immediate approach was to flush the wound with my remaining water, which was about a liter. I then packed it with toilet paper (TP), wrapped a bandana around it, and high-tailed it down into the valley with access to a stream. Then I sterilized about a gallon of stream water (using iodine tablets) and used tweezers to pick every piece of grit I could find out of the wound, all the while rinsing with water and letting the wound bleed itself to prevent clotting while I was cleaning. I used triple antibiotic ointment on the outside edge of the wound, dressed it with some TP that had been soaked in some triple antibiotic creme (my barrier to outside infection), more TP on top, followed by six layers of a cotton t-shirt that I cut up, with duct tape to hold it all in place. This was an agonizing process for someone who is normally pretty impatient, but you do what you must. I hiked out the next day and within 36 hours after the injury was at a health clinic where I received kudos for wound cleansing and treatment but a lamenting lecture about hiking down talus slopes in sneakers.

DAVE: …except that you also had a bad case of “the runs” early on in the trip and you only brought four Immodium tablets, so your TP has long since been used up.

RYAN: I actually only use TP to “polish” things up, relying instead on more natural sources for doing the dirty work. This becomes even more important when you have the trots. It’s amazing how much comfort a prickly alpine spruce bough provides – if you wipe with the needles facing the proper direction. I’ve also long since replaced normal TP with those tough blue “shop towels”. They make great TP for loose bowel movements because they are so absorbent, and are also ideally suited for wound dressings.

DAVE: If you knew that you would be found in a darn quick hurry, all of this might not be quite so bad. I notice though, that you don’t have much signaling equipment so you might be hanging out for a while.

RYAN: In addition to the whistle and see-for-a-mile-LED-mini-light in my kit, I often carry a LED headlamp and a mirror in my toiletry kit (used primarily for grooming and tick checks). Finally, what happened to the power of fire? Three fires arranged in a large triangle can’t be beat for night signaling. In daytime, a big wet smoky fire has the power to attract attention from miles away.

DAVE: OK, so your light runs out of juice in the middle of one of your night hikes. What do you do? You don’t have any extra batteries.

RYAN: This is why I’ve gone to LED headlamps. I install fresh batteries, lasting between 40 and 120 hours, for any hike of more than a few days and use lithium batteries if the light will take them. I’ve yet to run out of juice, even on an all-night winter escape from a Teton summit, where the low temps can really suck the life out of batteries. But, if worse came to worst, and I didn’t have the luxury of a moon or sixth sense to rely on, I’d just stop and camp.

DAVE: You are hiking deep into an area that has little water. While cooking dinner you accidentally knock your burning canister stove into the water bag on your hydration/filtration system. Now, not only can you not filter the small amount of water that you can scoop from the hoof prints that you find around the dry watering hole, but you can’t carry any of the putrid water with you. A couple of Ziplock bags and some water purifying tabs could come in handy here.

RYAN: All of my food is packaged in Ziploc bags, either sandwich-sized or gallon-sized. I don’t burn my garbage. I have enough Ziplocs in a week-long food supply to carry a few gallons of water. As for filtering, I always carry some kind of backup – usually, a chlorine dioxide chemical kit. And as a last resort, you can always boil the water to treat it, even using a fire if your stove fuel is gone.

BILL: Why is your firestarting kit vaccuum sealed? You need fire starters anyway. I’d carry the matches on me and leave the Bic in the first aid kit.

RYAN: I vacuum seal it for total waterproofness. The matches and lighter in this kit are to remain untouched except in an emergency – absolutely no exceptions. The fire is the last line of defense between you and hypothermia. When all of your equipment has failed, it is the only source of heat, other than your body, available in the backcountry. I carry a few backup matches in my stove kitl, although my stove uses a piezo ignition. The only other reason for a lighter is sterilizing a needle to pop blisters. On those rare occasions I use a match from in my stove kit stash.

BILL: By the way, where are your ID and your medical history? The search-and-rescue (SAR) folks who find you rotting away will be curious about who you were.

RYAN: Under the crown of my Tilley hat in a waterproof Ziploc with business cards that read: “If I’m alive, I’m a Backpacking Light subscriber. If found dead, please cancel my Backpacker subscription.”

BILL: Ryan, you may want to throw your organ donor card in that Tilley hat of yours.

DAVE: As well as your term life and disability insurance policies.

Conclusion

What can be learned from this discussion? Four overriding themes stand out:

  1. It may be impossible to compartmentalize a first aid and emergency kit as there are many dual use items in your other gear that can be used in a first aid or emergency situation.
  2. No amount of equipment can substitute for the knowledge required to actually use it in an emergency situation.
  3. Your creativity and resourcefulness with a solid base of knowledge about first aid and emergency assessment, are the most important components of your kit. The weight? Zero. It’s all in your brain.
  4. Your choice of equipment reflects your style and approach to backcountry travel. If you want to peer into the soul of a backpacker, check out their first aid kit. And always look in the crown of their Tilley Hat.

On the Trail With Lynne Whelden (Interview)

Lynne Whelden is known in the backpacking world for his documentary films and instruction videos on the various aspects of hiking. His “How to…” videos are considered a valuable resource for many thru-hikers preparing to hike the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and Continental Divide Trails. A resident of Pennsylvania, Whelden has recently expanded his talents to include the design and sale of a line of lightweight backpacking equipment, the most popular of which are the components that make up his “One Pound Series.” This system, consisting of the “big three” pieces of backpacking gear: a pack, a tarp and a sleeping blanket, has a combined weight of three pounds. Competing with the traditional outdoor equipment companies through his online enterprise, LWGear, Whelden’s designs are used by many lightweight backpackers throughout North America.

Eric Jensen: How did you get started backpacking?

Lynne Whelden: In the 60s, I was a Boy Scout. In a nearby town there was a Scoutmaster named Jerry Cobleigh who was trying to hike the AT in sections. I asked him if I could come along on some of his trips and he very graciously said yes. Over the next few years we did sections of VA and GA. Looking back, I’m amazed he was willing to put up with such a novice. I really didn’t have any gear to speak of. An army issue down bag, a mess kit, and a canteen that my mom had used as a Red Cross worker during World War 2. No tent. Some cotton jeans and T-shirts. Eight inch high work boots and cotton athletic socks from Sears. A big plastic poncho and a canvas external frame pack from a BSA store. When you’re 16 and you don’t know any better, it’s amazing what you can do. Nowadays when I’m trying to spread the lightweight message I realize that a person has to make all the mistakes before he or she is willing to consider a better way. When you’re a teenager or in your 20s there’s this macho thing about lugging a heavy pack into the woods. One of the greatest challenges for any proponent of lightweight backpacking is to reach the younger generation. If the idea catches on there, the economic impact in the backpacking industry will be so strong they can’t ignore us anymore.

EJ: What have been your most rewarding long distance hikes?

“I think the important thing is to get out there and spend uncompressed chunks of time in the woods. That’s when the magic happens.” LW: I don’t like the term “long-distance hike.” It implies that there are schedules to be kept, mileages to be met, places to go, and important rendezvous to be made. Aren’t we going into the woods to escape that kind of goal-oriented mentality? I prefer to call it “long-term hiking” instead. I think the important thing is to get out there and spend uncompressed chunks of time in the woods. That’s when the magic happens.

So to answer your question, the magic happened for me about 6 weeks into my ’92 AT thru-hike and about the same 6 week period into my ’97 PCT thru-hike. It was a moment maybe 10 minutes long that can only be described as transcendent. An epiphany. A vision. Whatever you want to call it, it was unexpected and it was profound. It’s significant that it happened when it did. I’ve found that the first few weeks of a hike are occupied with just trying to get everything to work correctly. Feet need to be broken in. Muscles need to be toughened up. Routines need to be established. Head noise has to be dealt with. A month or so into a hike is when I’ve hit my stride. However, after about two months just the opposite starts to take place. My body starts to break down. I find myself getting tired of the now all-too-familiar routines. I’m ready to try something else. But because I’ve set this athletic goal in front of me I keep chugging on. That’s when I get a bad attitude. So I’ve learned that two months is about the maximum amount of time for me to be away from home. Consequently I’ve become much more sympathetic to section hikers these days. I’ve also become intrigued by the art of walking. Thoreau’s statement from his essay “Walking” hits me right between the eyes. “If you are ready to leave father and mother, and brother and sister, and wife and child and friends, and never see them again–if you have paid your debts, and made your will, and settled your affairs, and are a free man–then you are ready for a walk.” I ask myself, am I truly free? On my AT hike I was trying to run my video business from phone booths along the way. On the PCT hike I had to worry about the health of my 80-year old mother who was living alone while coping with senile dementia. But this is what’s so cool about lightweight backpacking and long-term hiking–they strike to the very core of our existence with life-changing implications.

EJ: What made you decide to pursue a lightweight approach to backpacking?

LW: I really beat myself up on the AT hike. My pack weights were like everyone else’s–40 to 50 pounds. I had a really sore spastic muscle in my back that forced me to change my internal frame for an external one. And I had an even more painful Morton’s toe developing in the ball of my foot. So when I encountered a hiker somewhere in VA who was hiking with 10 pounds on his back, needless to say it got me thinking. I spent the next five years experimenting and talking with other lightweight enthusiasts to come up with a system that works. The result was a two-hour video called “Lightweight Backpacking Secrets Revealed.”

EJ: Which lightweight backpacking principle or technique was the easiest to adopt? Which was the most difficult?

LW: I don’t think there was anything easy about the transition. I was really attached to all my gear. After all, this was the stuff that got me through my AT thru-hike. My stove and pack and sleeping bag had become old friends to me. I knew the story behind each dent and scratch and patch. It was a long process. I’d try fuel tablets and found that they really worked. So then I’d sell my stove. I’d have a friend sew me a blanket and then I’d sell my sleeping bag. Ray Jardine’s book “The Pacific Crest Trail Hiker’s Handbook” [now updated as “Beyond Backpacking”] had a big impact on me.

EJ: Ray Jardine calls his style and philosophy of lightweight backpacking “The Ray Way”. If a style and philosophy were to be coined “The Whelden Way” what would its key principles be?

LW: May that phrase never be. I’m not one to seek the limelight. Not until my fourth video did I even inject my voice into the soundtrack (and then it was only one question at the end while the credits were rolling). And not until “Secrets Revealed”–my seventh video–did I appear on camera. I see myself as someone who can take a bunch of confusing information and distill it down to its essence and then present it in a digestible form. A promoter of sorts. You mention Ray Jardine. It’s unfortunate that the man has somehow managed to get in the way of his message. It’s amazing what emotions hikers feel towards Ray. Everything from utter disdain to pure adulation. This is obviously not a good situation because it can give lightweight backpacking a bad reputation by mere association. (“Isn’t that the guy who says corn pasta is magical?” “Well, yes but….”) You’ll also note that in my video I have eight other opinions in addition to my own. No one has a corner on the truth. I’m where I’m at now by standing on the shoulders of giants. Ray was one of them. “I’m where I’m at now by standing on the shoulders of giants. Ray [Jardine] was one of them. “

EJ: What would you say is the greatest innovation or practice in lightweight backpacking to date? What do you think might be the next innovation or practice?

LW: For me the greatest eye-opener was to realize that you could make your own gear. Again, I have to thank Ray for that insight. Somehow I’d thought that packs and sleeping gear and clothing were just too technical for us mere mortals. The fabrics and sewing techniques originated from the bowels of some corporate giant like Kelty or Coleman–names that made us tremble. So to be able to circumvent that whole scene was real freedom. Using $10 worth of material to make a pack was a real rush. And I could make it according to my own particular needs–totally wild!

“I think the next great innovation in lightweight will be in the area of food…we carry much more food / calories than we really need.” I think the next great innovation in lightweight will be in the area of food. Our food bag is the heaviest item in our packs. When we’ve just resupplied, that food bag weighs a ridiculous 10-15 pounds. Recently I’ve been experimenting with fasting while hiking. 

Let’s face it, the conventional wisdom of us hikers needing thousands and thousands of calories per day is based on standard heavyweight backpacking practices. We have to toss the rulebook out when it comes to lightweight. I really believe that we can easily cut our food weight in half. If you’re used to eating two pounds of dried weight of food a day, you can get by on one. If you’re a one pounder per day, cut that in half. The stomach is a muscle that responds to discipline. The science of nutrition needs to make its mark on hiker’s diets. There are ways to intelligently modify one’s diet so that you feel satiated on less. Also, certain foods can deliver more of a consistent energy boost than others. Food is the last frontier in lightweight backpacking.

EJ: In your opinion, are there any lightweight backpacking principles that should not be followed by certain types of backpackers?

“…the more fears we have
the heavier our packs will be.”

LW: In my enthusiasm for certain principles, it’s easy for me to overlook the fact that some people simply cannot do certain things. For some older hikers who have abused their bodies from a lifetime of toting heavy packs, there may be physical limitations. Thus they might not be able to wear low-cut trail running shoes. Some people may have spines that are too short or too curved to comfortably accommodate a frameless pack. People with compromised immune systems or thyroid problems may not be able to take the chance with iodine tablets. I think it’s important to determine whether these limitations are real or imagined, however. I often hear people talk about their weak ankles as they try to rationalize why they wear heavy leather hiking boots or why they use hiking poles. Do they have real proof they have weak ankles? Or is this some vague notion that originated years ago when they once twisted their ankle and have forever clung to that bias? Can they get a physician to document their “weak ankles?” I doubt it. Our fears are what dictate our choices. Or to put it another way, the more fears we have the heavier our packs will be. You may not like to call your “weak ankle” excuse a fear but that’s what it is. And until you’re willing to change, there’s nothing that can be done to make your backpacking experience a more pleasant one. There’s a strange empowering force that operates in tandem with our fears. The more we’re willing to try something new, the more strength (courage) we find in some remote corner of our being. I recently did an interview with two women who are hiking the AT barefoot. They mentioned that as long as we keep our feet bound up in shoes, the muscles will never be allowed to fully develop. Only when they freed their feet did they discover muscles they never even knew existed–muscles that then could prevent their ankles from being twisted and arches from falling.

EJ: While making your hiking videos of the AT and PCT, were traditional backpackers receptive to or cautious about a lightweight approach?

“Some people also believe that going light
means skating on the edge of disaster.”

LW: Everyone’s always receptive. The funny part is that most people think they’re doing lightweight backpacking anyway. Many folks will do one thing towards lightening their load like leaving behind their stove. But they’re still toting a five-pound tent and six pairs of socks! They just don’t get it. Lightweight backpacking is a tightly woven system and those that benefit the most are those who have committed to a total integration. Some people also believe that going light means skating on the edge of disaster. I’ve never advocated going without fundamental items. In fact, my approach doesn’t require any major sacrifices to be made. I’m not saying leave your foam pad behind and let exhaustion be your mattress. Nor am I advocating use of materials that can easily rip and tear. I’m not a fan of thin-soled running shoes, either. As long as you’ve decided to encase your feet, there’s a certain amount of sole protection that’s necessary and thin running shoes don’t deliver. There is a certain level of confidence in one’s wilderness skills that has to enter into the equation. Anyone thinking of getting into lightweight has to have a base knowledge so they can cope with the unexpected. But it doesn’t mean you have to be an expert in survival either.

EJ: Do you videotape while you hike? If so, are you able to reconcile your lightweight backpacking principles with the equipment demands of taping along the trail?

LW: Once upon a time I thought I could. But it was a horrible experience. I cringe when I think back to 1986 when I was shooting “Five Million Steps.” One night in the Smokies I was carrying a super 8mm-film camera, a tripod, a tape recorder and microphone, batteries and extra film. All this in addition to my camping gear. Needless to say, that pipe dream lasted for all of one night. Then in the 90s when miniature camcorders were a reality, I tried it again on the PCT. I had a Sony PC-7 that weighed maybe a pound and a half. I also had a hiking pole that I had rigged to be a monopod. At the base of the pole I had a heavy lithium expedition battery. And the usual extra tape and cables. Again it was a disaster. So I’ve done these videos by meeting hikers along the way, usually at some point where I can conveniently drive and walk to. I haven’t given up on the notion of carrying video gear. With the Sony PC-5 it’s down below a pound. But it’s a bummer when you’re slugging up a hill and you know that several pounds in your pack are totally useless to the hike itself. Without the filmmaker’s vision, I would have never pursued such a course.

EJ: Besides fame and fortune (grin), what motivates you to create videos of the hiking experience?

“As long as lightweight principles are discussed only in esoteric hiking circles, I’ll be frustrated. I want the average Joe Sixpack to get out into the woods and to have a good time doing it.” LW: I think it goes back to my situation at home. I grew up in a family where my dad left us when I was 6, leaving behind a brother and a sister who was brain-damaged and totally invalid. My mom had been an adventurer in her younger days and was now confined to taking care of my sister 24/7. So I found a certain pleasure in being able to bring home my adventures to her. Plus I have a real desire to educate the masses. As long as lightweight principles are discussed only in esoteric hiking circles, I’ll be frustrated. I want the average Joe Sixpack to get out into the woods and to have a good time doing it. When we can get the world to spend significant amounts of time (I emphasize the time) in the woods, preferably alone, then we stand a chance of actually changing it for the better. And isn’t that what our purpose in life should be?

 

EJ: In developing your own line of lightweight gear, LWgear, what have been the greatest challenges and successes? What would be your advice for the enterprising backpacker keen on starting up their own cottage industry for the hiking community?

LW: To see some of my gear end up in some mutated form or another in the Campmor catalog has been encouraging. It almost seems like the message is seeping out into the masses when something like that happens. But I still don’t think that the corporate world gets it. I still see salespeople pushing ridiculously heavy gear onto unsuspecting buyers. I think the mom and pop lightweight gear manufacturers are going to be the heart of the revolution. They’re the ones that can respond to change quickly and incorporate new ideas. They don’t need to deal with committees or boards or stockholders or be obsessed with the bottom line. I think some folks feel Ray Jardine has sold out to this corporate mentality. Here’s someone who in his second book said not to buy anything that had a bold logo you couldn’t remove. And now his gear sports logos that–I kid not–are embroidered in bright yellow. You couldn’t remove them even if you wanted to. Isn’t it odd that Backpacker magazine seems to only review companies who advertise with them? I’ve sent them promotional literature for years on my videos and my gear. I’ve called them on the phone. I’ve written letters. Back in the 80s I even took out one-inch high classified ads advertising my videos (to the tune of $400 per inch). But you won’t see LWgear mentioned in any articles on lightweight gear now. So I say, long live the folks who are operating out of their homes and garages. We won’t get rich but we’ll be giving the people what they need.

EJ: In your company’s website, you state that that one of your motivations behind the making of your “Lightweight Backpacking Secrets Revealed” video came from what you called dishonest practices in the retail trade. Do you believe these practices also exist within the specialized lightweight equipment trade?

LW: Hard to say. I don’t really follow the lightweight industry all that much. I don’t participate in on-line chat rooms. I don’t even subscribe to Backpacker. I might check a copy out at the library once in a while just to see what’s going on.

EJ: What project(s) are you working on currently?

LW: I’m toying with the idea of writing a booklet on lightweight backpacking. I say bookLET because it seems incongruous that a book on simplifying one’s pack should require many hundreds of pages.

EJ: Lastly, what one or more item do you take hiking that you consider a luxury (either lightweight or non-lightweight)?

LW: A radio. I need it for mental stimulation. I haven’t found anything lighter than the Sony ICF series that weighs 8 ounces and offers AM, FM and shortwave. If anyone knows anything better, give me a holler at lwgear@juno.com.

Filmography/Videography

  • Lightweight Backpacking Secrets Revealed: Let the Revolution Begin
  • Five Million Steps: The Appalachian Trail Thru-Hiker’s Story
  • 27 Days: A Senior Backpacking Adventure on Vermont’s Long Trail
  • Amazing Grace! The Incredible Story of the Blind Appalachian Trail Thru-Hiker Bill Irwin
  • Doc on the ‘Sock: A Physician Discovers the Loyalsock Trail
  • Free Food?! Vol. 1: A Guide to Edible Plants for Backpackers (and other people on the go)
  • How To Hike The Appalachian Trail
  • How To Hike The Pacific Crest Trail
  • How To Hike The Continental Divide Trail

For more information about Lynne Whelden and LWGear:

http://www.lwgear.com

Biography, Eric Jensen

Eric Jensen lives with his family in Kirkland, Washington where he enjoys the close proximity to the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges. Working in Seattle as an Urban Planner for King County, Washington, he is currently hiking the Washington section of the Pacific Crest Trail. Eric’s outdoor activities include nordic/biathlon and alpine skiing during the hiking off-season.

Wind Shirt Wars Review Summary

Wind Shirt Wars Review Summary

Introduction

A wind shirt is simply a single-layer woven (nylon or polyester) torso garment cut to the pattern of a shirt, pullover, or jacket. Key characteristics of a wind shirt are extremely light weight (typically not more than 8 oz in size medium), high breathability, and some water resistance (usually provided by a durable water repellent finish, or DWR).

A wind shirt is probably the most versatile piece of clothing you can carry in your pack. Typically worn over a base layer, they can also be worn on their own in warm weather. Wind shirts of course provide protection from the wind chill effect, as their name implies, but they can also be worn while hiking for light to moderate rain protection, for added warmth in cool weather (e.g., to slow the process of evaporative cooling that occurs rapidly at rest stops), and for sun and insect protection. For a more thorough treatment of the benefits of a wind shirt, refer to Part 2 of Jordan and Nelson’s Clothing and Sleep Systems for Mountain Hiking, also available from BackpackingLight.COM.

This review includes wind shirts from GoLite, Mardale, Montane, and Wild Things.

Review Criteria

All wind shirts present in this review have been tested in both laboratory-simulated and real-world field conditions (with the exception of the GoLite Bark, which was not submitted for this review in time for field-testing, and thus, will not be considered for a Trail’s Best Award until field testing is complete). Key feature categories investigated in the review included fabric specifications and performance, fit, and features. Each product review is summarized in the Review Summary Table (below), with subjective designations (excellent, very good, good, fair, or poor) assigned relative to each other (i.e., not on an absolute scale, or on a scale that can be compared with other products outside this review).

The Products

  • GoLite Bark (jacket)
  • Mardale Aerolite (pullover)
  • Montane Featherlite Smock (pullover)
  • Wild Things Wind Shirt (pullover)

Review Summary Tables

Click here for a 1-Page (Printable) Adobe PDF Version of the Summary Table, Opened in a New Window

Review Discussion

Fabric Specifications and Performance

GoLite. The Bark jacket is made with “Silmond,” a trademarked 1.9 oz/yd2 polyester that is comfortable when worn next-to-skin (we would have rated the Bark’s next to skin comfort as “excellent” if it wasn’t for the noticeable abrasion of the inner seams when worn without a shirt). Silmond is uncoated, so it breathes well and dries quickly, and the combination of its tight microfiber weave and heavier fabric weight (compared to the other wind shirts in this review) provide very good water and excellent wind resistance. We found the Silmond to be the most durable fabric of the lot, and would highly recommend it if your highest priority was bushwhacking through slide alder.

Mardale. The Mardale Aerolite’s 2.0 oz/yd2 Pertex RS5 is a ripstop nylon that did not perform to our expectations, considering the popularity of Pertex nylons. The fabric is heavily calendared (a process by which the fabric is heat-treated on one side to improve strength and decrease porosity) on the inside, which inhibited its breathability and next-to-skin comfort (the fabric tended to feel much “clammier” than the other products), although it made for excellent wind resistance and very good water resistance.

Montane. Montane’s Featherlite collection is made using Pertex Microlight, a 1.2 oz/yd2 ripstop nylon that is lightly calendared on its inner surface. Of the four products tested in this review, the Featherlite’s next-to-skin comfort, breathability, and drying time were tops. The Pertex Microlight feels like satin when worn next-to-skin and breathed well enough during light exercise that clamminess was never an issue. As expected, the thinner fabric of the Featherlite suffers in the area of wind and water resistance, but we were surprised by the quality of the fluorocarbon DWR finish on the Featherlite and its ability to shed light rain with ease. In addition, we wore the Featherlite through some pretty harsh brush conditions and noticed only very slight abrasion marks on the fabric. For a 1.2 oz/yd2 fabric weight, we were very impressed with its durability.

Wild Things. The Wild Things Wind Shirt uses the lightest fabric of the lot, an uncoated 1.1 oz/yd2 ripstop nylon. As expected, the paper-thin fabric did not withstand the rigors of busting brush while traveling cross-country through a dense forest. In addition, the lightweight nylon cannot be counted on for its ability to shed anything but the lightest mist or drizzle, and would not be appropriate as a wind shell while standing around camp in a cold breeze. However, such a light fabric has extreme advantages for the hiker that stays on the move: its breathability was unmatched, keeping us comfortable even while climbing steep hills with a pack in only moderately cool (40s) weather. But if you’re looking for a wind shirt that is appropriate for more stationary activities or harsher conditions, you may want to consider one of the other three products.

DWR Note: All wind shirts used fabric with a durable water repellent (DWR) finish.

Features and Fit

GoLite. The Bark was the only full-zipper jacket in this review, and one of only two with a hood. We found these two features to be well worth their added weight. The zipper provided an ability to ventilate that was not found in the other wind shirts, and allowed us to wear the jacket backwards with a pack on to keep airflow around your back (as recommended in Ray Jardine’s Beyond Backpacking), which was a very nice feature for hiking in high winds or rain. The hood extends the cold weather comfort range of this shell tremendously, because it allows you to wear a hat underneath it, and thus, preserve a great deal of body heat that would normally be lost through the collar. In addition, we thought that a hood might be a nice addition during mosquito season when layered with a noseeum mesh headnet. Our only gripes with the hood were that it did not have 1-handed pull drawstrings, and that it was sized a bit too small for adequate layering and head-turning comfort. The bark had nonadjustable elastic hems and cuffs (comfortably sized), but we would have preferred at least a drawcord-adjustable hem (and/or a 2-way zipper that could be zipped up from the bottom) that could have been used to control chimney venting through the garment. The Bark was the only pocket-rich jacket in our review, providing two convenient zippered “handwarmer” pockets and a single small zippered chest pocket appropriate for minor essentials (and stuffing the jacket). The Bark’s construction quality appears to be excellent, with reinforcement stitching in all the right places.

Mardale. The Aerolite pullover had a fairly deep neck zipper (deeper than the Montane Featherlite but not as deep as the Wild Things Wind Shirt), but was limited in length by the presence of a zippered map pocket (approximately 6″ tall and 11″ wide) that was made with nylon mesh and protected with a storm flap. The hood, like that of the GoLite Bark, could have a roomier cut (a minor issue) but its degree of articulation (i.e., head-turning comfort) was miserable, particularly for those of reviewers that wear glasses. In addition, the hood drawcords are poorly designed, and not only require two hands, but quite a lot of patience if you have cold hands. The Aerolite has a drawcord hem and a terrific hem cut that allows the jacket to cover your butt, a nice feature while hiking in the rain. Another saving grace on the Aerolite is the presence of a side zipper that travels from the hem to the armpit, providing a wonderful option for ventilation. Our only complaint is that the zipper is not available on both sides, so that a hip belt can be used without binding the entire hem of the jacket. Overall, we found the design and construction quality of the Mardale jacket to be fair–there were unbound seam edges in our product sample that frayed significantly, in addition to the need for reinforcement stitching in key wear areas (e.g., near the 1-handed pull loop on the hem drawcord).

Montane.  Montane’s Featherlite wind shirt provided the trimmest cut of the four products tested, so the buyer may want to consider sizing up one size if they desire some added room. On the other hand, the trim cut provides a very efficient garment for both heat and moisture transfer, allowing the product to perform to its potential in more demanding (colder) conditions. Other than the Lycra elastic cuffs and hem, the only distinguishing feature of the Featherlite is a short neck zipper and mock-T collar. Lack of features on this wind shirt means that there is no place to stow your keys, lighter, or push-button micro-light, but it also means an astonishing lack of weight–the Featherlite took the honors for light weight and weighed a scant 3.2 oz in size M, less than half as much as both the GoLite and Mardale shells, and full 25% lighter than its closest competitor, the Wild Things Wind shirt. The simplistic style, negligible weight, and incredible packability were deciding factors in our review team’s decision to include the Featherlite as part of their regular pack list. Construction quality of the Featherlite is excellent, on par with a small, high-quality custom shop.

Wild Things. The design of the Wild Things Wind Shirt is very similar to the pullover-style of the Montane Featherlite. The key features that distinguish the two include the cuff closure (Montane uses a Lycra cuff while Wild Things uses a less-functional hook-and-loop closure*), the hem (Montane uses a Lycra hem while Wild Things uses a non-elastic felled hem–in addition, the Wild Things’ hem was long enough to remain tucked in while reaching overhead–a very nice touch that made for slim layering), the neck zipper (deeper on the Wild Things, thus providing more ventilation), and the collar height (higher on the Wild Things, making it nicer to layer with a balaclava). Construction quality of the Wild Things Wind Shirt gets high marks overall, but we dinged them in this category because of the use of hook-and-loop with such a fragile fabric, and a questionable fabric specification (1.1 oz/yd2 nylon is not particularly durable for anything but trail walking–something our testers learned the hard way) for a garment that is likely to be worn more than any other piece in one’s clothing ensemble.

* We felt that the use of hook-and-loop closures on such a light fabric was inappropriate. Closing and opening the cuffs repeatedly on the Wild Things Wind Shirt eventually stressed the seams on the nylon until stitching began to tear away from the fabric.

Summary

GoLite Bark

For a full-featured jacket (hood, pockets, zippers), the GoLite Bark’s 8.0-oz weight provides a performance-to-weight bargain. Constructed with an attention to detail and quality, good fit, and a very comfortable fabric, the Bark won the hearts of our testers and is one of their favorite jackets. Only time will tell, however, whether or not the 8.0-oz weight will displace an ultralight wind shirt (like the Montane and Wild Things products reviewed herein) when it’s time to pack up and pay the piper. [Editor’s Note: We did not receive the GoLite Bark in time to include a comprehensive, long-term field review. Therefore, interpretations of the Bark’s performance in comparison to other products in this review should be taken conditionally. Backpacking Light will be testing and reviewing the Bark extensively in the coming months, after which time, a comprehensive field performance review will be released.]

Contact: GoLite http://www.golite.com/

Mardale Aerolite

The Mardale Aerolite’s novel (single side-zippered) anorak design was not enough to earn an overall vote of confidence among our testers. Our recommendations to the manufacturer include: add a second side zipper; increase quality of construction; change the hood design or lose it entirely; and change the fabric specification to something that is more comfortable when worn with a short-sleeve t-shirt.

Contact: Mardale Clothing, Ltd. http://www.mardale.com/

Backpacking Light
Trail’s Best Award 2001

Montane Featherlite Smock

Montane Featherlite

This was a clear favorite among our reviewers. Extreme light weight and packability means that the Featherlite will seldom (if ever) be left behind. Its simplicity of style was a refreshing option in a market flooded with “feature-rich” alternatives. Although our initial performance expectations of the Featherlite’s Pertex Microlight were not optimistic, once we took the Featherlite to the field and put it through the ringer of heat, insects, rain, wind, and sun, we were beyond impressed and amazed that a 1.2 oz/yd2 fabric can perform to such specifications. One of the finest pieces of lightweight clothing we’ve seen, the Featherlite earns a well-deserved Backpacking Light Trail’s Best Award. Our only recommendations: (1) the neck zipper could be lengthened to improve ventilation, and (2) improve U.S. distribution channels.

Contact: Montane (Chonos, Ltd.) http://www.montane.co.uk

Wild Things 1.1 oz Nylon Wind shirt

Wild Things almost hit the target with this well-designed wind shirt, predominatly due to the long hem, high collar, and deep neck zipper. But the inappropriate fabric specification (not particularly noticeable when reviewed independently, but a stark contrast to the luxurious Pertex Microlight of the Montane Featherlite) for situations requiring at least a reasonable degree of water resistance and durability make this garment suitable for only specialized situtations, thus limiting the versatility that should be the hallmark feature of a wind shirt. Needless to say, Wild Things makes a solid product that is well worth its bargain-basement price tag and ultralight weight.

Contact: Wild Things Gear http://www.wildthingsgear.com/

Hike ‘N Light Alcohol Stove

Hike ‘N Light Alcohol Stove

Introduction

Jack McGuire of Hike N’ Light, Inc., has created an alcohol stove with a 4-inch diameter burner that may very well be the ticket for heating large volumes of water in big pots, something most alcohol stoves aren’t particularly adept at.

A cottage industry manufacturer from Mountainside, N.J., Hike N’ Light offers an alcohol-based burner that is unique on the market for its substantial burner size that is easily larger than most homemade and commercially available alcohol stoves. Consequently, the Hike N’ Light stove may be one of the few alcohol stove designs particularly suitable for those wanting to cook for larger groups or with larger pots.

The Facts

The burner weighs 2.0 oz and is accompanied by three clips that secure to the burner and weigh 0.7 oz (total), plus a preheat pad that weighs 1.4 oz (verified on our scales). Thus, as shipped, the stove weighs a total of 4.1 oz (manufacturer’s claim is 4.0 oz) but does not include a windscreen (the manufacturer recommends doubled-over aluminum foil with an air intake vent cut into the bottom).

The manufacturer recommends using approximately two tablespoons of alcohol (i.e., 30 ml, or about 1 oz) to preheat the stove, with 1-3 oz of alcohol in the burner (which has a 3-oz capacity. Reported burn times by the manufacturer are: 6.25, 15+, and 45 minutes for 1, 2, or 3 oz of burner fuel, respectively.

Preliminary Performance Review

We’ve had the chance to run several tests with the Hike ‘N Light Alcohol Stove. The most important lesson we learned is that for most mild conditions, the amount of preheat fuel recommended by the manufacturer was excessive, causing the burner to overheat and burn its fuel faster than necessary, and causing a large flame pattern that not only engulfed the cookpot (Figure 1), but also made it dangerous and risky to access the cookpot’s lid, or to cook under the protection of an awning of a tent or tarp. Once the preheat fuel was consumed, however, the flame was tempered to a more manageable fire (Figure 2) with a nice-looking burn pattern.

FIGURE 1

FIGURE 2

Conclusion

Our first impression of the Hike N’ Light stove was that of excessive weight and fuel consumption when compared to smaller stoves available on the market or made by using “homemade” instructions (i.e., pop can stoves). However, as we play with it a bit more, it is clear that the Hike N’ Light’s flame pattern may have potential to allow alcohol stove cooking to be accomplished for higher water volumes (e.g., groups, boiling snow, large pots). For more performance-based information about the Hike N’ Light Stove, you may want to consult the more comprehensive reviews performed by the BackpackGearTest organization.

Contact Information

Hike N’ Light, Inc.
P.O. Box 1423
Mountainside, N.J. 07092
Phone: 908-232-4349

Email: info@HikeNLight.com
Internet: http://www.hikenlight.com/

Nutritional Considerations for Cold Weather Hiking

Nutritional Considerations for Cold Weather Hiking

Introduction

As I stood in the frigid cold stomping my feet in the snow, watching my husband hastily putting up the tent in the fading light, I admitted defeat. Three separate attempts on Mt. Whiteface (a relatively insignificant 4,000-footer in the White Mountains) and three times defeated by weather. Leaving home, we had optimistically calculated a same-day return. Before we had traveled a mile up the trail, however, we realized that it was a good thing we had packed food and gear for two days. Snow that had just been dusting the lowlands quickly turned to snowdrifts as we ascended. We were soon post-holing up to our knees, castigating ourselves for leaving our snowshoes in the warmth of our basement one hundred miles away. Following in the footsteps of my husband, I had it fairly easy, but by 4 pm I was exhausted and grateful to see the sun setting, knowing that fading light would be the catalyst for setting up camp for the night. Our destination nowhere in sight, we had to rethink the itinerary.

The tent ready, my husband turned eagerly and asked where I wanted to set up the kitchen. I snapped back: “No Food! I’m too cold. I can’t eat.” as I dove into the tent and the insulating layers of sleeping bag and liner. Concerned for my well-being (and perhaps a bit hungry himself), he soon had the stove humming and fixed dinner as I dozed off. “Here, drink this, you’re dehydrated,” he admonished as he handed hot soup into the tent. It hurts to say it, but he was absolutely right. I hadn’t reckoned how quickly the extreme hiking effort (ascending and post-holing) and the dry cold air would sap the moisture from my pores and from my breath. I had not replenished my losses, repeatedly rejecting his offers of a sip from his water bottle. The dehydration had turned to nausea at the thought of dinner. It was not the cold that was defeating me-it was my own stupidity. What had I learned from this day’s journey?

Snack Often!

First, recognize that when hiking in extreme cold (below 10*F), you will be burning an additional 250-500 Calories/day (see Endnote 1). Your body will be running the furnace at full blast to keep your core temperature within reasonable limits, but the layers you are wearing should protect you from using excessive Calories to keep warm. The real Calorie burner is the extra effort it takes to move more gear over worse terrain. Even relatively level terrain is more challenging if you are post-holing into knee-deep snow at every step. It takes twice as many Calories to walk in soft packed snow as it does to walk the same distance on cleared trails (Askew et al., 1989).

Getting more fuel when weather is extremely cold becomes a challenge, since slowing down for a three course lunch means a drop in body temperature with resulting cold fingers and toes. Thus, “grazing” should be the meal pattern: small, frequent snacks throughout the day to most effectively fuel your muscles. To adapt your normal warm weather menu, plan to add 4-8 extra servings of high carbohydrate/high fat snacks per day, with lunch reduced to the status of a “large snack”. Plan to nibble along the trail, as hands and feet will freeze up quickly if you stop for a mac ‘n cheese delay.

Put on extra layers before you need them, as soon as you slow down, to avoid long moments of uncomfortably cold extremities later on. To avoid robbing your arms and legs of necessary circulation, eat small meals, rather than large meals that shunt blood to the intestine. Timing your meals will also make a difference in how you feel. Eating dinner or a hearty snack just before you go to sleep (500-1200 Calories) will help you sleep warmer and more soundly.

Editor’s Comment: One of our reviewers adds, and Dr. Braaten agrees, that “…these calories should include a high proportion of fats, which can be utilized more efficiently, and a significant portion of protein, needed to restore muscular endurance for the following days’ activities, should be included in that amount.”

Sip Often!

Stay Hydrated. Dehydration compounds the effects of cold weather exertion, causing more physical strain on heart and skeletal muscles, leading to earlier exhaustion. Avoid dehydration by sipping water often throughout the day. To keep water bottles from freezing, pack them inside your jacket next to your body, sleep with them in your sleeping bag (along with your boots–in a plastic bag of course), and buy/make an insulated bottle jacket. Two partially full bottles will freeze faster than one full bottle, so combine the water bottles if you have two that are less than half full. Adding gatorade/Kool-Aid will depress the freezing point, keeping it liquid longer, but at less than 10*F even sugar water will freeze. Fluids that contain too much sugar will promote diuresis (you lose more water than you gain), so a 7% solution, or approximately 1/3 C powder per liter, is recommended to maintain optimum hydration status (Rintamaki et al., 1995).

Foods to Avoid

Avoid any food that makes you “think you’re hot when you’re not”. Foods that cause you to break out in a sweat–alcohol or spicy foods containing hot peppers, for example. Even too much hot fluid at once can cause vasodilation, allowing precious warmth to escape from your pores. Water/fluid should be about body temperature, or taken in small sips if very hot (Rintamaki et al., 1995). Avoid high protein snacks, as they increase your water requirement and reduce your cold tolerance. Ten to 15% Calories from protein is generally adequate (Stroud et al., 1996).

Prepare in Advance

Be mindful of the effect subzero temperature will have on your food rations. What are you going to do with 5 bagels that have frozen solid on your high country/mid-winter trip? Use them for hockey pucks? Take chips or cheese crackers instead. Generally, the less water in any food, the better. The lower water content makes them less likely to freeze solid. Pack dehydrated soup and instant cereal mixes, Summit bars or granola bars–foods that require little or no preparation and that contain no water. (See www.frc.mass.edu/bbraate/packlite/index.htm for Water Content of Common Trail Foods; Ed. Note 9/12/04: Dead link) Do as much of the food preparation as possible in the warmth of your kitchen: slice sausage/Kielbasa and cheese, package food in baggies so that all you have to do is heat water to a boil and dump the contents in. No stirring required; no frozen fingers. I even remove tea bags from their wrapper. Think through every step of food preparation that will be required on the trail as though you had to do it with mittens on, and simplify accordingly.

Take Extra Fuel

Beside needing more fuel yourself, you’ll need at least 3 times more stove fuel to melt snow and heat it to boiling (not correcting for additional environmental losses due to conductance, exposure to wind, etc.). Everything will take longer–take plenty of fuel (see Endnote 2).

When melting snow, be aware that you should start with some liquid water in your kettle, otherwise your pan will scorch and the water will taste burned. (Editor’s Note: some water in the kettle will also improve the heat transfer efficiency among the water phases in the pot and promote faster melting time).

Because there were teenagers awaiting our attention at home, we returned to the valley the next morning. We had not conquered Mt. Whiteface this trip, but it was not the cold that defeated us. Rather, because the cold had discouraged the masses, we had been graciously provided with what we needed most: profound solitude, spirit-renewing perspective. Undaunted, we could eagerly anticipate “the next time”, better educated than when we began this trip. Next time, I’ll bring the snowshoes, and yes, I’ll drink my water throughout the day.

Key Points to Remember

 

  • Sip water/fluids throughout the day.
  • Take at least three times more fuel than you would for summer hiking.
  • Avoid a high protein diet. Eat frequent high carbohydrate/high fat snacks.
  • Have a substantial snack just before bedtime (high protein OK here).
  • Pack no-fuss meals: instant hot soups or cereals, hot drinks.
  • Do the prep work at home: wash veggies/fruit, slice cheese/sausage in the warmth of your kitchen.
  • Pack dehydrated/low moisture foods.

 

End Notes

1. Editor’s Comment: One of our reviewers wrote: “Dr. Braaten claims that you will burn an additional 250-500 calories per day at cold temps. This seems low, indicating an amount of increase due to the basal metabolism (thermoregulation) functions alone, and may not consider the additional extreme physical exertion normally encountered under winter conditions.” We gave Dr. Braaten the opportunity to respond, and she replied: “Most folks will dress adequately for cold conditions, so increased BMR is unlikely/insignificant. I agree, cutting new trail through three foot snow drifts would increase caloric needs substantially…However, I suspect that most of us will be following a blazed trail, or only occasionally putting out that kind of effort. Add to that shorter days (less daylight), and calories may come out about the same as they would under “friendlier” conditions.”

2. We’re obsessive about mimimal fuel on longer treks in moderate weather, (see our website) but quite liberal when camped in subzero temperatures. Aside from more fuel required to heat water for cooking, we drink more hot fluids, and melt snow. Better to err on the side of safety. – BB

Bibliography

Askew, Eldon W. Nutrition for a cold environment. Phys and Sportsmed. 1989, 17(12).

Rintamaki, H., T. Makinen, J. Oksa and J Latvala. Water balance and physical performance in cold. Arctic Med Res 1995, 54 Suppl 2:32-6.

Stroud,MA, AA Jackson and JC Waterlow. Protein turnover rates of two human subjects during an unassisted crossing of Antarctica. Br J Nutr. 1996, 76(2):165-74.

RBH Designs Vapor Barrier Hand & Footwear

RBH Designs Vapor Barrier Hand & Footwear

Introduction

A small company from Connecticut is producing innovative cold weather products in a big way. All products are based on vapor barrier (VB) technology, in which a vapor-impermeable (and waterproof) membrane is placed between the surface of the skin and the clothing’s insulation. RBH Designs’ inaugural product line focuses on insulated VB handwear and footwear.

Product Line

We received a handful of samples from RBH, including heavily insulated (Polarguard 3D) expedition mountaineering mitts with a VB lining, fleece-insulated “trigger mitts” (i.e., like mittens but with a detached index finger) with a VB lining, VB-lined fleece socks, and VB sock liners.

Preliminary Testing

We had the privilege of testing RBH’s flagship product, the Polarguard 3D-insulated Vapor Mitts (Figure 1). During an Arctic cold front that passed through Montana this winter, we were pleased to test the mitts during a front-porch bivouac at 27 °F — below zero. I donned an expedition down jacket, slid into a winter-strength down sleeping bag, and cinched it up around my armpits so that my hands and arms would remain free. I slept on a closed cell foam pad and sealed myself up in a Pertex Endurance bivy sack. Thus, the only insulation between the skin of my fingers and hands and the brisk outside air was that provided by the Vapor Mitts. I lasted about six hours in the cold before the ice on my face mask began to interfere with my breathing, so I called it a night. However, the Vapor Mitts kept my fingers comfortable and they never went numb or even felt cold.

Figure 1. Vapor Mitts

In contrast, I completed the same test in similar temperatures on the following night using the industry gold standard expedition mitt–the Outdoor Research Pro Modular Mitt with its double pile liners. I lasted about two hours before my fingers became numb, so this comparison was hardly a contest. However, instead of calling it quits, I warmed up my fingers and returned outside with RBH’s Vapor Triggs (Figure 2) with their Vapr-Thrm fleece liners. These gloves, although not as warm as the Polarguard-insulated model, were able to get me by for four more hours before I had to withdraw my hands into my sleeping bag, as my index fingers were beginning to get cold. Thus, it appears that both RBH’s Polarguard 3D and fleece Vapr-Thrm liners provide serious protection from the cold. Because the Vapor Triggs were a bit thinner than the Polarguard-insulated mitts, they are more appropriate for activities requiring more hand mobility, like skiing or climbing. In fact, the mitts are so bulky, that they serve little purpose other than as emergency bivouac gear, unless one enjoys the feeling of slogging up the side of a very, very tall mountain on a very, very cold day with a piolet in hand.

Figure 2. Fleece Vapr-Thrm insulated Trigger Mitts (“Vapor Triggs”) and liner

While our biggest compliment for the Vapor Mitts and Triggs is the warmth and weight of the liners (e.g., 6 oz for the Polarguard 3D mitt liner pair), our biggest complaint is the weight of the shells (e.g., 6.5 oz for the mitt shell). Granted, this handwear is designed for expedition use, but for the weekend warrior interested in keeping his digits and not necessarily needing supreme durability, a much lighter shell could be offered. In addition, not everyone needs a mitt that requires so much insulation, and thinner versions of Polarguard-insulated mitts (or for that matter, down-insulated mitts!) with ultralight shells would be a fantastic alternative for the lightweight winter traveler. The bottom line is this: RBH has developed a VB technology that seems to be very functional, and in stark contrast to VB technologies of the past–very comfortable. The possibilities for market development are endless. 

We used RBH’s fleece Vapr-Thrm socks (advertised as a “boot liner,” 5.0 oz men’s size 9, Figure 3) all winter long while climbing, snowshoeing, and skiing in temperatures down to -15 °F. They outperformed any combination of fleece or pile sock technology we’ve ever tried, and not once did our feet get dangerously cold, despite the fact that nearly all of our activity was performed in single leather mountaineering boots that were only lightly insulated (Scarpa Freneys).

Figure 3. Fleece Vapr-Thrm Socks

The only thing we missed with the RBH fleece socks vs. other wool and fleece socks we use is the lack of stretch in the fleece material. As such, it becomes very important to “nail the fit,” so to speak, as the seams in the socks are substantial enough to cause problems and binding if the fit is incorrect. Our socks fit perfectly, and we hardly noticed the seams.

We’ve also been experimenting with RBH’s VB sock liners (1.2 oz men’s size 9, Figure 4) which are manufactured from a 4-way stretch vapor barrier that has a wicking lining. We found these to be ideal when worn in combination with the RBH fleece Vapr-Thrm socks, as they assisted in both moisture dispersal and comfort. In addition, we wore the sock liners in milder conditions (10 °F to 35 °F) in combination with either traditiional wool socks or waterproof-breathable socks (Seal Skinz) and found them to be very effective at retaining warmth. I think RBH’s VB liner material is tops on the market, and very comfortable next to skin. I sincerely hope that they will explore a product line based on this technology. For the lightweight backcountry traveler venturing into colder climes, VB shirts, pants, glove, and sock liners using RBH’s technology would be a comfortable, lightweight addition to the pack.

Figure 4. Vapor Barrier Sock Liners

Note: All of our tests with RBH socks and sock liners were performed with the RBH system on one foot, and a traditional wool sock system on the other.

Elite Top Bag by Rab Carrington

Elite Top Bag by Rab Carrington

Introduction

On seemingly rare occasions, large manufacturers get a wild hair to buck the system and offer a product that is so uniquely innovative that it does little more than incite snickers and scowls from traditional backpackers so ingrained in their ways that they aren’t even willing to consider the possibilities of such innovations in design. The Elite Top Bag from Rab Carrington of the U.K. is one such example (Figure 1). The Elite Top Bag is marketed both as an overbag to extend the comfort of a lighter bag to colder conditions, as well as a lightweight 2/3 season bag. This review focuses solely on the use of the Elite Top Bag as a standalone bag.
FIGURE 1. Rab Carrington’s Elite Top Bag

The concept behind the Elite Top Bag’s design is a simple one. Insulating materials such as down depend on their ability to “loft” (i.e., trap air within their fiber interstices). Thus, since the insulation on the bottom layer of a sleeping bag is compressed by your body weight while lying down, then it effectively provides little or no insulating value (hence the need for an uncompressible foam sleeping pad for insulating the body from conductive heat loss to the cold ground). The Elite Top Bag forgoes an insulated bottom, replacing it with a single layer of open-weave mesh. The end result is a down-fill bag rated to near-freezing temperatures whilst weighing a remarkable 19 ounces!

Bag Facts

The mesh bottom of the Elite Top Bag is 22″ in width and extends 58″ from the head end of the bag towards the footbox. Consequently, the bag retains insulated “sides” and a fully insulated footbox. The size of the mesh corresponds (approximately) to the dimensions of a typical Âľ-length sleeping pad, so that cool air drafts entering the mesh are (in principle) minimized. Other weight saving features on the bag include no hood with a simple drawstring-and-toggle closure (Figure 2) to control drafts in the neck and shoulders region, and no zipper, requiring the user to wriggle in and out of the bag through it’s opening at the head end.
FIGURE 2. A drawstring closure and generous shoulder girth provides a good neck seal that controls drafts and retains heat in the head end of the bag.

The Elite Top Bag is manufactured with 3-inch vertical baffles (the baffle material is an ultralight parachute nylon) spaced at intervals of 3.5 to 6.5 inches (with no obvious rationale regarding the baffle spacing!) in a narrow box construction. Approximately 7.1 oz of 750+-fill down is distributed among the baffles, which loft to a height of 2.0 inches at the baffle seams and 2.5 inches at the baffle mid-points (note that since the actual loft is less than the vertical baffle height, the Elite Top Bag can accommodate additional overfill for colder sleepers). The manufacturer suggests a temperature rating of approximately 32 °F. The shell material is a mini-ripstop (1.7-mm ripstop interval) nylon in the Pertex Microlight family (1.3 oz/yd2) of products from Perseverance Mills, Ltd. The mesh bottom is an open-weave nylon mesh with a fabric weight of 3.1 oz/yd2. The length of the bag is 67 inches, with interior shoulder, hip, and foot girth measurements (as measured) of 61 (measured at the head of the bag), 53 (measured at the midpoint), and 43 inches (measured one foot from the end), respectively. The manufacturer’s reported weight of the Top Bag is 550 g (19.4 oz). We verified the weight of our sample to be 19.00 ± 0.05 oz.

TABLE 1. Elite Top Bag Specifications

Shell Material  Pertex Microlight mini-ripstop, 1.3 oz/yd2 
Insulation  Goose Down, 750+ in3/oz 
Fill Weight (1) 7.1 oz 
Baffle Material  Parachute Nylon, 1.2 oz/yd2 
Baffle Height  3 inches 
Measured Loft (2)  2.25 inches
Footbox Loft (3)  5.0 inches
Inside Girth  61″ / 53″ / 43″
Packed Size  11 x 24 inches (264 in3) 
Total Weight (4)  19.0 oz (19.4 oz)
Notes: (1) Fill weight as reported by manufacturer. (2) Loft of top layer measured as the average of the loft measured at the baffle seams and baffle midpoints. (3) Average loft of footbox region (both top and bottom layers). (4) Weight as measured on a calibrated digital postal scale (weight in parenthesis indicates weight as reported by manufacturer).

BackpackingLight.com Position Statement:
Sleeping Bag Temperature Ratings.

Missing from this review (and for all sleeping bag reviews published here, for that matter) will be an assessment of whether or not the sleeping bag performs adequately at temperatures near its manufacturer-reported temperature rating.

There are too many variables involved that influence user comfort, including not the least, intrinsic metabolism and physiology, which vary greatly from user to user. Consider also that an individual user may sleep warm one night while sleeping cold another night, even when environmental conditions and sleep systems are equivalent, and the mere concept of temperature ratings becomes somewhat unjustifiable. Add to all of this the effects of a user’s daily caloric budget (calories consumed vs. expended), clothing worn, and amount of moisture in a sleep system (e.g., from condensation of perspiration vapor), and you have a process of such complexity that it has baffled the world’s best physiology modelers for years.

Thus, to “rate” a sleeping bag would be a hopeless exercise and to compare a manufacturer’s rating to real-world performance based on experiences of a handful of testers would not only be unfair to the manufacturer, it could possibly lead to a false conclusion by a reader that did not fit the physiological profile of our testing corps or did not experience the same conditions that we experienced in our tests. Consequently, the best we can do is to measure the loft of the bag, and ask you as an informed consumer to compare it to the loft and temperature ratings of bags from other manufacturers in order to make a wise decision.

Design Analysis

First, let’s consider a comparison of the Elite Top Bag vs. those from other manufacturers with a similar loft on their top layer (Table 2).

TABLE 2. Comparison of Elite Top Bag with Sleeping Bags
with Similar Loft of Upper Layer from Major US Manufacturers

Bag Loft (in)  Temp (ºF)  Weight (oz)
Rab Elite Top Bag  2.3 32 19
Western Mountaineering Iroquois (1) 2.0 38 24
Marmot Hydrogen (1) 2.7 30 23
Feathered Friends Rock Wren (1) 2.0 30 28
Notes: (1) Hooded mummy designs.

The data in Table 2 show that the manufacturer’s suggested temperature rating for the Elite Top Bag is within a reasonable range of temperature ratings from other manufacturers when compared to bags having a similar amount of loft on the upper layer, so it is not unreasonable to expect that the Elite Top Bag is rated appropriately. However, one should keep in mind that the presence of the mesh (which could introduce drafts or result in heat loss for a sleeper that tends to roll) and the absence of a hood should be considered to decrease the comfort of the Elite Top Bag relative to a mummy bag having a similar loft on the top layer. Consequently, the use of a hat or balaclava, and/or a sleeping bag liner or clothing, should be expected to fairly extend the comfort range of the Elite Top Bag down to its estimated temperature rating.

Performance Review

We are testing the Elite Top Bag during the period April 1, 2001 to September 30, 2001. We’ve had the opportunity to evaluate the bag on seven nights in the field during two backpacking trips and have been pleased thus far with its performance at temperatures ranging from the mid-30s to the low-50s. To date, we’ve used the bag in conjunction with a tent or bivy sack/tarp combination, both of which serve to reduce, but not eliminate, the possibility of heat loss through the open weave mesh bottom. We’ve found this to be most uncomfortable (but tolerable), of course, when temperatures were in the 30s, while the effect was not noticeable for temperatures in the 40s or higher. The draft effects were most significant in a tent, with a bivy sack being much more effective at controlling heat loss through the mesh.

The key design flaw that needs to be addressed focuses on the shape of the bottom mesh material relative to the bag. Because the mesh is a 22″ x 54″ rectangle, and because the bag is tapered toward the foot, there is not enough side insulation near the foot end of the mesh, where drafts are most noticeable (see Figure 3). We found heat loss to be most significant in the lower regions of the bag, where the testers nearly unanimously complained of cold legs when temperatures were in the 30s. Because the bag tapers and the mesh panel does not, the effect of draft-sealing “sides” decreases towards the foot end of the bag.
FIGURE 3. Bottom view of Elite Top Bag. Note the insulated “sides” and footbox, visible to the left/right, and top, of the mesh, respectively. In particular, notice the decrease in “side” insulation down the length of the mesh panel towards the footbox.

Conclusions

The Elite Top Bag certainly has one of the highest warmth-to-weight ratios of any sleeping bag on the market. We were very impressed with its ability to maintain a remarkable level of comfort given its 19-oz weight. With a few modifications (see below), it just may approach perfection for the hardy backcountry traveler who is serious about shaving ounces.

Recommendations

To overcome the effect of the mismatched shape of the mesh and bag, the bag could be rectangular, and thus, provide “sides” down the length of the mesh (see Figure 3). A rectangular bag would increase weight unnecessarily while providing a less efficient shape, so a better option would be to taper the mesh panel to match the taper of the bag (i.e., a width of 22″ at the head end of the panel tapering down to approximately 16″ at its food end). To make this work, that part of the mesh panel that was “removed” so to speak, would need to be replaced by extending the width of the down-filled baffles down the length of the bag.

Another recommendation to save weight without losing function is to replace the mesh with a lighter material, such as Pertex Microlight taffeta (1.3 oz/yd2). This would help control drafts, as the open weave of the mesh material is particularly prone to convection currents. A possible disadvantage of this modification is an increase in “slipperiness”, and consequently, less control in keeping the bag’s insulation over you.

A final recommendation to the manufacturer: provide a stuff sack with the bag that is made of silicone-coated nylon (1.4 oz/yd2), instead of the heavy polyurethane-coated nylon sack that is currently provided.

Contact Information

Rab Carrington, Ltd.
32 Edward Street
Sheffield, S3 7GB
England
Tel. +44 (0) 114 275 7544
Fax +44 (0) 114 278 0584
Email: info@rab.uk.com
Internet: http://www.rab.uk.com/ 

The manufacturer’s suggested retail price for the Elite Top Bag is ÂŁ100. Rab does not sell directly to the public and currently, does not yet have a U.S. distributor. However, the Elite Top Bag can be ordered from Rock & Run, a U.K. retailer, either online or by telephone (http://www.rockrun.com/ or +44 (0) 153 943 2855).

Lightweight First Aid Kits for Hiking

Lightweight First Aid Kits for Hiking

Introduction

First, I want the reader to understand that these are only my suggestions. This article is not a substitute for advice from your own physician or other recognized authorities in first aid and wilderness medicine. Advice from this article should be compared to other resources and reviewed along with specific information about medical history and the planned activity.

Hiking is an excellent sport and exercise, whether for a short day hike, a longer walk for a few days or a week, or a long distance trek for several months. As with any sport, preparation and training help to make the endeavor fun and safe. As with any sport, injuries, accidents and illnesses will occur. In general, a first aid kit should be part of your survival gear and always available for hikes. It is a good idea to keep a kit for all general activities as well as one that is targeted to specific endeavors. For instance, you don’t need the same gear for water skiing as you might carry for a spring walk in the Smokies. However, there are several basic items that you will want to have, at least on your person. You can compare this to how you carry your driver’s license while driving to the corner store, carry a Voter’s Registration card when voting, carry a Passport when traveling to Paris, and carry a driver’s license, Social Security card and proof of citizenship to a new job.

Identification

So let us begin with the basic ID. Grab a 3×5 card and write your name, address, phone numbers, identifying numbers, insurance numbers, next of kin, and a list of illnesses and medicines you take. Then in RED, write your allergies. Laminate this card. This card stays on you all the time.

Packaging

Next, find something to carry your first aid kit in. Look outside the envelope. For instance, you might want to put ID, a few bandaids and Aspirin in a film canister that you keep in your pocket, or attached to a lanyard about your neck with your compass and whistle. This container needs to be small, light, and easily carried. The container should be in your possession for every short walk to get water, use the toilet, sight see, or other activity.

For more involved first aid, a larger package (Ziplock bag, soapbox, or other small container) should fit into your pack and will contain more significant gear. It should offer convenient access and never be buried in your pack. Wander around the grocery store, pharmacy, or your basement to find just what you will need. Some are able to make a small box work, keeping it in a pocket. Others will feel the need to keep a kit that requires a fanny pack. If you do much winter or off road travel, you may want to consider keeping a larger kit in your trunk that would include a shovel and more heavy and bulky gear for treatment of trauma or basic CPR.

In my case, I use Ziplock bags. I like the firm quart size that will stand independently. (A sturdy plastic bag can double as an emergency water container). Because it is clear, you can take quick inventory of your first aid resources. A sandwich baggie might be worth bringing to help contain ticks and other nasties you might find attached to you, and want to take to your doctor or ER if you become ill-having a specimen handy may aid in the diagnosis of a tick borne infection.

Contents

I like to keep essentially two kits. The one attached to me will provide essentials if I lose my pack. This is a small Ziplock, jar, or film canister attached to a lanyard with a compass, mirror, LED light and whistle. This kit also contains the ID card. I might put a Mylar blanket in this container, just in case I need emergency shelter. Two large black trash bags can also serve this purpose, and will collapse to a very small size. I also put a BIC lighter in the kit. This part of my kit gives me emergency shelter, ID, medical information, three means of signaling for help (mirror flashes, light flashes and the whistle), as well as means to start a fire. I also attach large safety pins to my zippers. These help attach slings and splints made from clothing, bandanas and other gear, and double as a convenient zipper pull.

The larger Ziplock bag or other container will sit in the top compartment of my pack. This bag will also contain prescription medicines, along with labels from your pharmacy to identify and confirm that you are in possession of medications and not diverting prescriptions for abuse. Some pharmacies provide a service to pack medicines in individual dose packs, which helps prevent breakage, spoilage, water damage, and aids identification. Avoid the usual fragile pill bottle that will allow humidity (which dramatically reduces the shelf life of your medicine) and crushing of contents. Consider using a ball of cotton soaked in Vaseline to reduce breakage, as well as means for cleaning a wound, starting a fire, or other use. A small magnifying glass can give you an additional way to make a fire, as well as a means to check a wound or search for ticks. There should be a small notepad that details the contents of the container, numbers and types of medicines, and can be used to keep a chronology of treatment, along with a small pencil. You should make a few choices about non-prescription medicines such as Aspirin or other analgesics, vitamins, GI remedies, electrolyte replacement powder, salves, lotions and other agents. Personally, I carry Aspirin, two moderate strength oral narcotic tablets, pink bismuth tablets (Pepto Bismol), Tums for daily calcium supplement, and possibly one or two sleeping tablets. An antihistamine, such as Benadryl, can help treat reactions to allergies or insect bites and stings.

Next I include trauma and injury supplies. Think about what accidents and conditions may occur on your walks. I divide these into two groups. First, let’s consider minor inconveniences that make the walk difficult but can be tolerated. These include abrasions, blisters, sunburn, dehydration, insect bites and stings, and other minor traumas or conditions. Get two pairs of latex gloves and use them to contain each other. In the fingers of these gloves put your minor injury supplies such as bandaids, moleskin, Compeed or other bio-occlusive dressing, butterfly strips and other wound dressings. Add to this small tubes or packets of salves such as triple antibiotic creme, diaper creme, sunblock (often included in skin lotions), DEET or other insect repellant.

The second group deals with potential trip ending events such as burns, lacerations and orthopedic injuries. Grab your choice of 3-inch gauze roll, Ace Bandage, 4X4 pads, sanitary napkins and other wound dressing. Add to this either a small roll (10 feet) of Duct tape or bandage tape. I keep more duct tape rolled around my hiking poles. You might want to carry a small amount of Saran Wrap, which can be an excellent temporary burn dressing. You could carry a SAMS splint, but remember that hiking poles and mattress pads can do a very good job of splinting with duct tape, with torn clothing, safety pins, or rope to keep the splint in place. You should also arm yourself with basic first aid education regarding lacerations and musculoskeletal injuries, and not just a book to thumb through during a crisis. You should make decisions about carrying snakebite equipment, remembering that the old advice of cutting, sucking out poison, and such are now considered to be very ill advised.

Finally, consider what you might need for other life support. Iodine tabs or solutions can help clean wounds and treat water. Are you prepared to provide mouth-to-mouth resuscitation, or will you carry a barrier to protect you from a potentially infected and non-responsive victim? Do you feel the need to carry snare wire or fishing gear to obtain food? Do you understand the need to get a hypothermic person out of wet clothing, even if only to put them into large trash bags to warm up?

One can find multiple uses for first aid items and the means to improvise with what you already carry or wear. Many find they can do well with only ID, a few bandages and limited medication and lotions. Most find their own comfort level with the decisions of what gear to bring or to leave behind. There is little need to carry a first aid kit that would provide all the functions of an urban paramedic’s kit. Regardless of what you bring, make sure you know how to use it. Take the time to learn basic first aid for the major maladies of the trail. This knowledge should include recognition of hypothermia and hyperthermia, dehydration, fever, infection and shock. One should have knowledge of how to stabilize a potentially fractured limb, how to stop bleeding, and how to manage burns, insect bites and other injuries.

A well-stocked mind will make a well-stocked first aid kit out of items at hand.

Editor’s Note: Dr. Thornoloe’s last statement couldn’t ring more true to a lightweight backpacker. The keys to minimizing the weight of your first aid kit include an increased base of knowledge that allows you to use other equipment items to treat major injuries, and accepting the possibility that minimizing your first aid supplies may result in ending your trip early due to an inability to treat a normally minor injury. Also, one must keep in mind that the need for rescue and survival equipment depends largely on your hiking locale. In most places in the lower 48, carrying survival equipment can usually be replaced by participation in a good wilderness survival curriculum; however, the importance of rescue (signaling) equipment cannot be emphasized enough. With a life-threatening injury, nothing is more important than getting the victim out of the wilderness FAST. This need alone may justify carrying items like a cellular telephone, signal flare, strobe light, or red smoke bomb.

The Arc Bag Concept: Saving Weight with Variable Girth Sleeping Bags Having an “Arc” Shaped Cross Section

As we prepare to announce the launch of the Backpacking Light website, it is probably appropriate to introduce a teaser about what we intend to spend a great deal of time with this year: clothing and sleep systems for ultralight hiking, with a focus on quilts.

Editor’s Introduction

As we prepare to announce the launch of the Backpacking Light website, it is probably appropriate to introduce a teaser about what we intend to spend a great deal of time with this year: clothing and sleep systems for ultralight hiking.

This editorial provides some insight into the concept of the ARC BAG: a variable girth sleeping bag having an arc, rather than an elliptical (or oval), cross-section. Come along for the ride, we think this concept will constitute a leading edge in sleeping bag design in the coming years.

Enjoy, and get ready to ‘lose some weight’!

Overview

Conventional sleeping bags are manufactured with an elliptical (or oval) cross-section (at least, that is the approximate cross-section of a bag occupied by a user).

It has long been known that the insulation beneath you is compressed while sleeping, and thus, may not be as effective in maintaining warmth in the bag while sleeping.

Both Rab Carrington (UK) and Macpac (New Zealand) have recognized this and are manufacturing so-called “top” bags, i.e., sleeping bags that only have insulation along the top and sides, and simply a fabric sleeping pad sleeve (in the case of MacPac) or a single layer of fabric (in the case of Rab) for the bottom.

However, such designs, and in fact, most sleeping bag designs, suffer from a fundamental flaw that has been recognized and promoted by Ray Jardine beginning in the late 1990s: girth cannot be controlled, and insulating efficiency is lost.

Enter the Quilt

And so, we have the ‘sleeping quilt’. The quilt is just that – a sheet of insulated material, not unlike your bed comforter at home, that you simply lay over you. On cold nights, you grab the edges, and tuck them under you. Guess what you are doing when you do this? That’s right – changing the interior girth of the bag to increase its insulating efficiency.

Do-it-yourselfers are realizing the benefits of quilt designs, creating “variable girth sleeping bags” with sewn foot boxes and open bottoms, where the sides can then be tucked beneath you on colder nights.

Advantages of Variable Girth Sleeping Bags

The primary advantage of variable girth bags is that you can adjust your insulating clothing underneath and extend the bag to a wide range of conditions and seasons. This is economical (you may only need one bag), and you can layer two ultralight variable girth bags together to extend temperature ranges or move the dew point (and condensation) into the outer layer (something that is more difficult to do with conventional sleeping bags). The resulting bags are lighter (lack of bottom insulation and hoods save weight and give you more flexibility for integrating your sleep system with other components, such as hooded jackets, hats, sleeping pads, etc.).

The Arc Cross Section

The ability to escape the confines of the “ellipse” and enjoy the freedom of the “arc” cross section gives ultralight hikers and climbers tremendous versatility, as outlined above. Arc-cross-section bags will evolve as a category, although manufacturers will likely drag customers kicking and screaming for a few years, because they will face the emotional barriers that consumers hide behind, the most common of which is the psychological security of being wrapped up, head to toe, in a draft-free down cocoon.

Arc designs are available on the Internet for the do-it-yourself crowd. One of the best has been published by Hungry Howie (historical reference: http://www.newsushi.net/quilt.html). Howie is an experienced thru-hiker of the Appalachian Trail, and to our knowledge, is the first to put the variable girth, sewn-foot box arc design into action (November 2000). He will be using the quilt this year in adventures that include a thru-hike of the Long Trail. We’re eagerly awaiting his report!

Update (April 2003): Don Johnston has additional thoughts on the variable girth arc design. An experienced user of the Rab Top Bag, Don has issues with it, most of which are largely related to its lack of variable girth functionality. In an email to the BackpackingLight Yahoo eGroup, Don describes the elements of what may be an ideal sleeping bag design:

“These are the specs I developed for an alternative to the RAB top bag that should work better for me: Picture in your mind a sleeping bag with a full length zipper that is open and the open side is facing down so the bag is a quilt over me. Start with a sleeping bag like the PHD Minimus or Nunatak Alpinist. If using the Alpinist request it be constructed with a 2″ baffle height and 4″ baffle width. Open up this zipper less bag soon to be quilt except for a 10 to 12 inch foot pocket. The quilt is open for the remainder of it’s length. No Zipper, Mesh, or other closure. The width of the quilt tapers from the foot box to 45″ wide at the hip which is 39″ from the foot end of the Quilt. The width remains 45″ wide for the remainder of the quilt. No hood. The head end of the quilt has a velcro tab to close the top of the bag and the top of the bag is encircled with a draw cord and toggle that is adjustable on the top side. This allows closing the bag off at the neck. Microlite shell fabric. 8 oz of 800 fill down or more up to a total bag weight of 17 oz. The bag can be held down to a pad by adding a string to each side of the bag at hip height. The string is simply tied under the ground pad. An alternative is grosgrain ribbon and velcro.”

In essence, Don has taken the best features of top bags (insulation on sides and bottoms), and the variable-girth flexibility of quilts, and engaged an arc design with bottom cords/straps. We think this may approach an ideal design for lightweight hikers, and are looking forward to the fruits of his efforts. Last we heard, Don solicited a few manufacturers to make this custom design for him. We hope the design becomes commercially available. I know my pocketbook is ready.

Perhaps Western Mountaineering, a manufacturer of Cadillac down bags for backcountry enthusiasts, will adopt the concept. Could we see an “Arc UltraLite”, “Arc Dakota”, or “Arc Puma” in the near future? (Answer: not soon enough).

Using the Arc Design with a Sleeping Pad

The Jardine concept of an arc design employs the edges of the bag mating with the edges of a closed cell foam pad to regulate the ground seal. The problem with this design is that forcing the edges of the bag to mate with the edges of a sleeping pad eliminates the variable girth flexibility of the system, and you are left with a traditional elliptical cross-section that is unable to accomodate various layers, and thus, the system loses insulating efficiency for the underdressed sleeper on a cooler night (more volume of dead air in the sleeping bag to heat).

Others (including Johnston) have proposed using the sleeping pad inside the bag, with the edges of the quilt tucked underneath. Johnston proposes using straps or strings to secure the edges of the bag underneath the pad. The main advantage of this technique is the ability to fully seal the sides of the bag where it reaches the ground, minimizing drafts. The main limitation of this technique is that the pad forms a semi-rigid bottom that, unless as narrow as the body, can cause compression of the down near the sides, and cold spots. For pads that are greater than body width, the ability to create an efficient arc-shaped cross-section around the user is impaired by the semi-rigid pad, and more volume than necessary is created for the user to heat up.

A final alternative is to secure the bag edges (using Johnston’s proposal of straps or strings) above the pad, so that the bag’s girth can be more precisely controlled around the user and the excess interior volume is minimized, making for a very efficient insulating system. The main disadvantage of this technique is that when the sleeper rolls, if s/he rolls with the sleeping bag, the bag’s open bottom gaps will be exposed to drafts.

Summary

The following table summarizes the features of arc vs. elliptical cross sections for sleeping bags.

Table 1. Comparison of Arc (Variable Girth) vs. Elliptical (Fixed Girth) Sleeping Bags

Cross Section Arc Ellipse
Girth Variable Fixed
Hood No Sometimes
Bottom Insulation No Sometimes
Weight Lighter Heavier
Commercial Availability Limited Widespread
Do-it-Yourself Ability Easier More difficult
Overbag Layering Layers well as an overbag Must be oversized to layer as an overbag
Clothing Layering Layers well with winter insulating clothing Must be oversized to layer with winter clothing
Warmth Draft protection is compromised by lack of hood and bottom insulation Drafts can be sealed better with a hood and fixed fabric elliptical (closed) shell

Credits

Many thanks to Hungry Howie, Don Johnston, and Ray Jardine for their efforts in advancing the concept of arc-cross-section sleeping bags and variable-girth quilts.

Updates

August 2001 – Don Johnston has successfully convinced a manufacturer, Nunatak Gear, to bring his design to market! Don’s bag weighs around 18 ounces, is reported to have 2.5 or so inches of single-layer loft (800 fill down) and uses the 0.85 oz ultralight nylon similar to that used in the Western Mountaineering ExtremeLite series bags. The design, presumably, was a derivative of Nunatak’s “Alpinist” bag, and they’re calling the new design the “Arc Alpinist”. Hey, we like the name; what can we say?!

November 2001 – Well, I bit the bullet too and had Nunatak customize an arc-section variable girth down bag for me. Microlight shell, 0.85 oz lining, with a few unique specifications that I asked for: differential cut (for which I specified the exact differential), variable down fill across its length (more in the foot area, less in the chest area, so the bag is ideally combined with an insulating jacket), and a slightly wider “expedition” cut so it can be used as an over bag over a smaller down bag. Overall, I’m very happy with it and expect that it will take me down into the single digits easily. I wrote a more complete review for BackpackGearTest (historical reference: http://www.backpackgeartest.org/reviews/Sleep%20Gear/Sleeping%20Bags/Nunatak%20Arc%20Alpinist%20Down%20Sleep%20Bag/Owner%20Review%20by%20Ryan%20Jordan/).

July 2002 – Don provides a comprehensive description and review of his arc-cross section variable girth sleeping bag. Read it here.