Articles (2020)

Overview

The Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme is a tent that was created for a singular purpose – to climb serious mountains quickly with the lightest weight and greatest level of security possible. It weighs in at just about 3.25 pounds, making it among the lightest two-person bomber mountaineering tents on the market. The Summit Extreme is constructed of Exchange Lite Gore-Tex, which is highly breathable and gas permeable, and has a large rear vent; both factors greatly minimize condensation. (Exchange Lite Gore-Tex is not available in tents sold in the U.S.; Outdoor Designs is manufactured in the U.K.) It uses Easton 340 Carbon FX poles which are 35% lighter but 208% stronger than similar aluminum models. The Summit Extreme has an extremely low profile at 28 inches, 13 stake out points, and can handle the strongest of winds. It has a small footprint and can be pitched in very small spots (even most double porta-ledges). A unique feature is the dual sealed tie out points, allowing two climbers to be directly anchored to the mountain without having to open the tent to pass a rope or slings.

However, in its singular focus, the Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme has some serious downsides. The 28-inch roof is very short, making sitting up impossible. This low height also creates low angled walls which, while adding to its wind stability, greatly minimize usable space. This tent is very cramped for two people. It also has no vestibule, making this a better solo tent unless you have a very focused pair of climbers who are willing to accept the cramped quarters. There is a mosquito mesh door on the front but this is not a tent you’d want to spend a lot of time in while waiting out the bugs in lowland areas. At $660 USD, the Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme is also a very expensive tent. That said, the price is right, and the design is right, if you need a tent that offers an unparalleled mix of light weight, high security, breathability, and wind stability. It begs to be taken up the most serious mountains in the world.

In Brief

• Ultralight mountaineering tent at just 3.25 pounds minimum package
• Easton Carbon fiber poles are 35% lighter and 208% stronger than aluminum models
• Exchange Lite Gore-Tex is highly breathable and virtually eliminates condensation
• Dual sealed tie out points to anchor climbers directly to the mountain
• Very cramped quarters and a very low ceiling make this a better solo tent and passable for a pair of climbers only for the most focused summit attempts
• Low ceiling, stiff poles, and 13 guy out points create exceptionally high wind stability
• Very tough and durable
• Made in the U.K. – Gore-Tex tents not available in the U.S.
• Not cheap at $660 but a good value for climbers that need its features
• The Summit Extreme has no equal in its niche – light weight, secure, breathable, and stable

Specifications

• Tent Type	Single wall with floor, mountaineering tent
• Fabric Description	Tent body: Exchange Lite Gore-Tex – 15,000 mm Hydrostatic Head, O2 and CO2 gas permeable; Tent floor: coated nylon – 10,000 mm Hydrostatic Head
• Pole Material	Carbon fiber, Easton 340 Carbon FX (ultimate tensile strength poles – 200,000 psi, inserts – 96,000 psi)
• Weight Full Package As supplied with stuff sacks, stakes, guylines, etc.	Backpacking Light scale Manufacturer claim 4 lb 8.2 oz (2.05 kg) 3 lb 4.8 oz (1.50 kg)
• Weight Minimum Package Tent body and fly, minimum necessary stakes and guylines, no stuff sacks or extra hardware	Backpacking Light minimum Manufacturer supplied minimum Same as Manufacturer Minimum but with: 0.25 oz (7 g) titanium stakes, 0.004 oz/ft (0.37 g/m) Aircore pro Dyneema guylines 6 stakes, 12 ft (3.7 m) guyline 6 stakes, 12 ft (3.7 m) guyline 3 lb 3.8 oz (1.47 kg) 3 lb 5.4 oz (1.51 kg)
• Floor/ Vestibule Area	Floor area Vestibule area 27.1 ft2 (2.52 m2) none
• Floor Area/Backpacking Light Minimum Weight Ratio	0.52 ft2/oz
• Dimensions	inches centimeters Width 47 120 Length 83 210 Height 28 70
• Model Year	2004
• MSRP	$660 (£350)

Usable Features / Ease of Use

Setting up the Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme is very easy. Like other single wall wedge designs, the poles are set up outside the tent, slipped inside, and flexed into their corner spots. Pole tips are placed into the corner grommets (two are provided for tensioning options or for running a double pole set for extra strength). The 10 Velcro tabs are then attached. A minimum of six stakes are recommended to achieve the maximum stability and floor space (one at each corner and two for the side guy outs). In really nasty conditions, I was even able to set the tent up from inside, although it’s usually easier from the outside because of the small interior space.

The poles are Easton 340 Carbon FX models which are 35% lighter than similar gauge aluminum poles but 208% stronger. In fact, these poles are twice as strong as ANY OTHER POLE EASTON MAKES. Their weakness is in their standard Easton aluminum inserts, which are half the strength of the pole material (see Durability below).

The tent material is Gore-Tex Exchange Lite, a waterproof/breathable fabric that is also oxygen and carbon dioxide permeable, allowing for totally sealed usage for extended periods. All seams are seam taped and the corners have deep, reinforced pole pockets.

There is one door that has an inner mosquito/spindrift netting door. Door seams are covered by two overlapping 3.5 inch wide flaps that are Velcro closed. A rear vent is placed low in the tent for high/low air flow with the front door. This vent can be sealed closed by a cordlock, but is not backed with mesh. The vent is easily adjusted from inside and attaches to the rear guyline for maximum ventilation.

A unique feature of the Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme is the dual sealed tie points. These points are created by fabric hoops that are sewn to the tent walls, creating sealed elbow macaroni-shaped hoops. One hoop is located on top of the tent (hoop outside the tent) and the other is at the base of the tent side (hoop inside the tent). These two fabric tubes allow the climber(s) to tie into the tube with a runner and then to tie into an anchor on the outside of the tent. This system effectively removes the tent from the system WITHOUT having to pass a rope or runner through an opening in the tent. This means that you can pitch the tent on a highly exposed ridge, on a big wall porta-ledge (it fits most double porta-ledges), or in an area of extreme wind and secure yourself directly to the mountain, increasing security in extreme conditions dramatically.

The Summit Extreme comes with standard v-stakes and a set of guylines. Also included are guylines with thick elastic hoops at one end which allow the tent to give a bit during high winds. These elastic guylines were a blessing during one 60+ mph night, allowing the fully guyed-out tent to give during gusts, helping maintain solid anchor placements. Three reasonably lightweight and durable stuff sacks are also included, although the pole sack is too short for the carbon poles.

Weight / Sizing / Usable Space

At around 3 pounds 4 ounces for the complete tent, this is one of the lightest tents that can truly be considered “bomber.” The floor space is also reasonable, measuring 1 inch wider and 1 inch longer than a comparable Integral Designs MK1 Lite. However, because of the very short 28 inch roof (compared to 42 inches on the MK1 Lite), the walls are at a low angle. This cuts way down on usable space, making this tent very small for two people. As a solo tent, usable space in the Summit Extreme was better, but at 6’2″ tall, I slept at an angle to be most comfortable. I could not fully sit up in the tent, and with a partner it was necessary to take turns getting ready or organizing gear.

There is no vestibule and precious little space for gear inside. If there are two of you, compromises will be a necessity.

Wind stability

Although the low height and low angle walls cut down on usable space, they absolutely shine when the wind picks up. Despite the fact that two-pole designs tend to not be the best when winds pick up because of side deflection, the Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme does very well with high winds, due to its sloped walls that easily spill wind. With 50-60 mph gusts on a mountain ridge in the Cascades, the tent barely moved. The side guy outs added to the stability of the tent. In fact, much higher winds would be needed to fully test the upper limits of wind stability with the Summit Extreme. This is the first tent I’ve used that I would take for an overnight in a storm on the summit of Rainier or a high camp in the Himalaya.

Storm Protection

The Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme sheds snow easily. However, the low roof creates a tiny flat spot on the top of the tent. During snow storms, I had to occasionally knock snow off the roof. Nothing abnormal resulted from these light snow loads and the tent could handle far greater snow loads with ease.

Ventilation / Condensation Resistance

The Gore-Tex Exchange Lite fabric is second in breathability only to eVENT in waterproof/breathable tent fabrics. However, the only full eVENT tent currently available is the Nemo Tenshi and only for a limited time. Further, because of fire codes, Gore-Tex tents are not available from North American companies. To find Gore-Tex tents you have to look at brands outside of North America such as Outdoor Designs (U.K.), Terra Nova (U.K.), MacPac (Australia), or Montbell-Japan. But when it comes to breathability and condensation resistance, it is well worth it to track down a Gore-Tex tent.

Little more than minor condensation along the poles was ever achieved during field usage of the Summit Extreme. This includes a very wet trip in the Olympic National Park; despite constant drizzle, still air, two people in the tent, and keeping it completely sealed, very little condensing occurred in the tent and not enough to run down the sides (a huge difference from the condensation found on the large volume silnylon tent pitched next to us). Even during condensation testing in my backyard when I boiled water in the tent for 15 minutes (not recommended), the condensation was remarkably low and dried within 20 minutes after shutting off the stove.

By opening the rear vent and cracking the door, cross ventilation was sufficient for airing out the tent if one is forced to cook inside the tent (once again, not recommended). However, finding space for cooking is a different matter.

Insect Protection

The Summit Extreme tent is designed to survive bug season but not to be comfortable in it. The door has bug netting and the fabric is breathable. However, the tiny tent is just a step ahead of a bivy for comfort when being swarmed. The rear vent without netting makes it impossible to achieve cross-venting at these times. However, adding netting to this vent would make it impossible to adjust the vent from inside the tent, a compromise not acceptable with the focus of the Summit Extreme.

Durability

While on a climbing trip, I fell hard on the tent while walking on ice in my boot liners, breaking a pole insert (which are half the strength of the carbon poles). I ended the trip fine and Easton had a new section to me in just three days, no questions asked. Believe me – this was not the fault of the pole. It is interesting to note that it was not the carbon pole that snapped but the aluminum insert, proving the strength of the carbon shafts.

The Gore-Tex fabric is very tough, both inside and out, and showed zero wear after several months of field testing. Even when a sharp piece of aluminum shoved into the tent fabric from the broken pole, I was amazed that no damaged occurred. Same goes with the floor which shows no wear despite being pitched directly on ice and rock on many occasions. This tent will last through many tough summit bids.

Value

At $660, the Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme is an expensive and specifically-focused tent and is $100-$200 more expensive than its nearest competitors from Integral Designs and Bibler. That said, there really is no competitor for the Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme. It can go with you on the most challenging alpine routes and keep you alive with its wind stability, moisture-passing walls, durability, and dual tie out loops. For climbers that put themselves on the toughest routes, this tent is an excellent value. If you are a casual mountaineer, however, your money will be better spent on a more comfortable, less expensive, and less narrowly-focused tent.

Recommendations for Improvement

The inside pockets need more reinforcement on the corners so they don’t pull away from the inside of the tent (a minor issue). Other than that, there is no need for additional improvements. Sure, it would be nice to have more headroom or more usable space but that would miss the point of the Summit Extreme.

If you’re looking for a more well-rounded tent, the Summit Raider is also available from Outdoor Designs. It features aluminum poles, a more comfortable 41 inch ceiling, the same Gore-Tex walls, and at a weight penalty of less than 1 pound.

Overview

The EV2 may be the lightest two-person, three-pole mountaineering/expedition tent on the market. Many new high tech (and expensive) materials contribute to weight savings. The EV2, even with its few flaws, is our first choice for a fast and light ascent tent. The Atlas Scandium SL poles and low-stretch reinforcing panels on the canopy create a surprisingly solid structure for the weight. Five vents and the waterproof/breathable, fire retardant canopy fabric do a credible job of managing condensation. The EV2 is one of the easiest tents we’ve pitched, mountain or otherwise. With the built-in vestibule, we found the tent had more than enough room for us and our gear to comfortably wait out a day long Patagonian storm of high winds with horizontal rain, sleet, and snow.

In Brief

• Just over 5 lbs with vestibule – possibly the lightest tent in its class
• Roomy for a two-person mountaineering tent with good area to weight ratio
• Easy and extremely fast to pitch with exoskeleton poles and clip attachments
• Strong, light Atlas Scandium SL poles with field serviceable floating connectors
• High tech fabric/design: low stretch structural panels follow pole/stress lines. Fire retardant waterproof/breathable canopy fabric of pre-stretched polyester (meets fire resistant code for tents!)
• Five vents and waterproof/breathable canopy fabric provide good condensation resistance for a single walled tent
• We were unable to get a completely taut canopy pitch
• Less resistant to heavy snow loads than heavier four-pole mountaineering tents (especially true with the older Easton pole set)

Specifications

• Tent Type	Single wall, three-pole, mountaineering/expedition tent with built-in vestibule
• Fabric Description	Canopy Conduit FR 2.9 oz/yd2 (98 g/m2) high tenacity pre-stretched polyester (the fire retardant FR fabric it less breathable than standard Conduit but meets code for fire retardance for dwellings so the tent can be sold in the states). This is a very expensive fabric! Structure stabilizing panels Dimension Polyant VX-02. The 1.6 oz/yd2 (54 g/m2) VX-02 is a low stretch laminated fabric with reinforcing fibers. It has a coating for UV resistance. Floor Superlite 2000, a 70d nylon taffeta (more durable than ripstop and pitches better). The polyether urethane coating in the floor is hydrophobic and more durable than the hydrophilic urethane coating used on most tent floors.
• Weight Full Package As supplied by manufacturer with stuff sacks, stakes, guylines, etc.	Component Weight Body 3 lb 13.6 oz (1.75 kg) Easton poles 1 lb 3.3 oz (0.55 kg) [Atlas poles] [1 lb 5.6 oz (0.61 kg)] 10 stakes, 3 stuff sacks, guylines, 10 cord locks 11.0 oz (0.31 kg) Total weight 5 lb 11.9 oz (2.61 kg) Backpacking Light scale (poles & body) Manufacturer claim (poles & body) 5 lb 0.9 oz (2.30 kg) Easton poles 4 lb 14 oz (2.21 kg) 5 lb 3.2 oz (2.36 kg) Atlas poles 4 lb 14 oz (2.21 kg)
• Weight Minimum Package Includes tent body and fly, minimum necessary stakes and guylines, no stuff sacks or extra hardware	Backpacking Light minimum Manufacturer supplied minimum Tent body, fly, poles, 12 titanium stakes: eight 0.25 oz (7 g) stakes and four 0.4 oz (11 g) stakes; and 16 ft (4.8 m) Triptease cord with 2 cordlocks. Stakes and guyline = 4.2 oz (120 g) Tent body, fly, poles, 10 Y stakes, 16 ft (4.8 m) guyline with 2 cordlocks. Stakes and guyline = 6.2 oz (177 g) Note: manufacturer supply is 2 stakes short of requirement for a good pitch 5 lb 7.4 oz (2.49 kg) Atlas poles 5 lb 9.4 oz (2.55 kg) Atlas poles
• Floor/ Vestibule Area	Floor area Vestibule area 31 ft2 (2.88 m2) Built-in (included in floor area)
• Floor Area/Backpacking Light Minimum Weight ratio (including internal vestibule)	0.36 ft2/oz (1.2 m2/kg)
• Dimensions	inches centimeters Width 48 122 Length 108 274 Height 41 104
• Model Year	2004 body tested with 2004 Easton and a stronger 2005 Atlas pole set
• MSRP	$625.00 USD

Usable Features / Ease of Use

With external poles and clips, and no fly, the Mountain Hardwear EV2 is easier and faster to pitch than most mountaineering tents, including those that use internal poles attached with Velcro straps. The EV2 vestibule goes up easily – a welcome change from some tents where attaching an external vestibule takes more time than pitching the tent body itself. While it is easy to pitch, getting a taut canopy on the EV2 is difficult. I will discuss this further later in the review.

The EV2 has:

• Five vents with mosquito netting, storm flaps, and built in struts to prop them open. The vents zipper completely closed to keep wind-blown precipitation out, or open to reduce condensation
• New, and strong, Atlas pole set with floating connectors
• Special clips at pole intersections are supposed to increase strength
• External poles that generate no condensation on the inside of the tent
• Two small, non-yellowing, non-clouding, clear UVX film side windows
• Large stake out loops that accept both skis and snow pickets
• Four mesh storage pockets for things like cameras, headlamps, glasses, etc.
• Eight, buckle adjustable webbing tie outs for the floor and vestibule.
• A narrow (but longish) floor design accommodates pitching on narrow ledges and snow platforms commonly encountered in climbing
• The usual stuff sacks, Y stakes, manual (not very useful), and seam sealer, etc.

Weight / Sizing

The EV2 may be the lightest tent in its class. Although it has a slightly lower total area to weight ratio than the Crux X2, it is important to remember that the vestibule of the EV2 is completely enclosed and floored. No other two-person, three-or-more pole mountaineering tents can claim the floored area to weight ratio of the Mountain Hardware EV2.

Usable Space

For a five-pound, three-pole mountaineering tent the EV2 has a lot of room. The built in vestibule contributes to this. My wife and I slept in the rear of the tent and found enough room in the vestibule for all our gear. We easily weathered a day of high winds, rain, sleet, and snow in the EV2 without going crazy. The tent seems much larger than other tents in the 31 to 33 square foot size range. The roof line is almost horizontal front to back making it easy for two to sit-up and face each other. For a mountaineering tent it is fairly bright and cheery. The VX-02 panel reinforcements are semi-clear and let light in. There are two small side UVX film windows and the orange waterproof/breathable canopy fabric lets pleasantly colored light in as well. Even the vents let light in. The pseudo-bathtub floor, which has edges raised 3 inches above the ground, reduces the level floor area a bit. It took a little getting used to, but we did not find this a significant problem for usable area or gear storage.

Wind Stability

I found the Mountain Hardwear EV2 plenty stable in the winds in Patagonia which is, without question, the windiest place I’ve ever been. It seems like the closer you get to the crest of the Patagonian Andes and the huge southern ice field, Hielo Sur, the stronger the winds blow. The most severe test for the EV2 was a campsite below Paso Viento. Viento means wind in Spanish and if they have to mention wind in Patagonia… The wind was so strong that my wife and I were unable to walk or stand up. We retreated to a semi-sheltered site and pitched the EV2 to wait out the wind. The EV2 was stable with little deflection even during the hardest gusts that day and night. Our only gripe was the noise from flapping panels on the not completely taut tent canopy. Good side tie outs were essential to reduce the panel flapping and stabilize the large and otherwise unsupported side panels of the tent. The raised edges of the tent floor occasionally allowed some wind underneath the tent – a strange experience. The 41 inch peak height, while tall enough for both of us to sit up, was low enough to reasonably shed wind.

Contributing to the strength of the tent is the new Atlas Scandium SL pole set. This pole replaces the standard Easton 7172 poles on previous EV2’s and adds a few ounces to the total weight. Much of this weight increase comes from a stronger and larger diameter vestibule pole. Atlas Scandium SL poles use floating connectors which they claim make the poles stronger, lighter, and more durable than standard fixed connector inserts or swaged end poles. The floating connectors allow more even pole flex, are 13% stronger than traditional fixed insert poles like the Easton 7172, and are 30% stronger than swaged end poles like the DAC FeatherLite. The floating connectors also make the poles more easily field repairable.

The EV2 has panels of low-stretch VX-02 fabric panels in high stress areas – under the tent poles and crossing the side panels of the tent where the side tie outs attach. The theory is that these panels form a strong, non-stretching network that interlocks with the poles for a super stable pitch structure between the tent canopy and poles. We found this only partially successful.

Storm Protection (Wind and Rain)

The Mountain Hardwear EV2 does quite well with wind, rain, and moderate snow. The front door and all five vents zipper shut to keep wind and precipitation out. The built-in vestibule works to store all your gear away from precipitation and keeps it readily available as you wait out a storm. You can seal down the EV2, even more than a double walled shelter, which usually has a gap between the floor and the fly. I found this a blessing at the end of a day of windy hiking and bad weather in Patagonia. There was nothing more I wanted than to crawl into a place where there wasn’t wind, dust, and grit swirling around, or horizontal rain, sleet, and snow, and where the whooshing and howling quieted down. The EV2 is easy and fast to pitch, so I was under shelter sooner than with most other shelters I’ve used. The five vents worked well to let in fresh air, hold down condensation, and keep precipitation out. The side windows and vents were also nice to peek out and see what the weather was doing.

Storm Protection (Heavy Snow Loads)

Note: The following discussion involves testing done prior to receiving the newer and stronger Atlas pole set. The EV2 that deflected under snow loading used the older and more flexible Easton poles. We believe that the stronger Atlas pole set should reduce the EV2’s deflection under snow loads. In particular, the vestibule pole is much stiffer, with an increased pole diameter from 0.350 to 0.390 inch.

Our major gripe with the EV2 is deflection with heavy snow loading. One of our testers used the EV2 (older Easton poles) on a winter ski trip. During a night with around 16 inches of snow, the ceiling of the EV2 deflected 6 to 8 inches and the walls closed in by a foot or more. After a day of skiing and more heavy snow, the EV2 had deflected to a height of around 24 inches or almost half of its original 41 inch peak height. The tent did spring back undamaged after shoveling out. A Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 tent pitched in the same campsite did not significantly deflect under the same snow load. On the other hand, the Trango 2 is a four pole, double-walled tent, that weighs nearly twice the weight of the EV2.

A few of our staff engineers (also the testers) discussed the snow load deflection. Here’s our best guess at possible factors contributing to this and some possible solutions (in addition to the stronger Atlas pole set already mentioned above):

It is important to note that our reviewers did not use an optional ‘internal guy’ system described in the EV2 User Manual. This system, while taking extra time and effort to set up, may have improved the EV2’s snow loading performance. The Trango 2 also did not use the internal guy system and did well with snow load.

Ventilation / Condensation resistance

The critical factor for managing condensation in the Mountain Hardwear EV2 is wind. With wind the EV2 is almost condensation free due to its five vents with struts to prop them open. Without wind, the EV2 with its waterproof breathable fabric, does better than non-breathable single walled tents but still condenses at moderate levels^*. In calm conditions the vents are not large enough to make convective (chimney) ventilation work. To be fair, vents large enough for this are inappropriate on a mountaineering shelter. In calm, bug free conditions, the vents can be completely opened without mosquito netting for improved air movement.

Patagonia has an excessive amount of damp and foul weather that can make the best single wall tent look pretty bad. One of the techies at Mountain Hardwear was a bit skeptical of how the EV2 would do with condensation there. He shouldn’t have been. Even waiting out a very cold day of constant rain we had no problems with condensation in the tent. What contributed most to this were the vents and that there was wind. With the vents open, the wind created enough air exchange to keep condensation at bay. The vents are thankfully located in areas of the tent that keep drafts away from the occupants. The waterproof/breathable shell fabric helped as well with condensation. In addition, having the poles outside the tent keeps them from condensing and dripping on you, which can be a problem in tents with internal pole attachments as found on many mountaineering tents. On another night without rain, we slept with the front door open. The vestibule was deep enough and protective enough that sleeping in the rear of the tent we were protected from the wind. Without rain and bugs this is a very pleasant way to sleep and an excellent way to keep condensation down.

Our other tester used the tent on an overnight backcountry ski trip. With two people damp from skiing, no wind, and temperatures just below freezing, the tent had moderate condensation. In his opinion the tent did significantly better than non-breathable single walled tents but not as well as some of the eVENT single walled tents he has used under similar conditions. The eVENT tents do not use fire retardant fabric, while the EV2 does.

^* Note: All tents/shelters will condense given the right conditions – even uncoated nylon with no fly over it. I’ve had condensation inside a large nylon tent with a substantial mosquito netting roof vent, no fly, and the tent was even protected by a large roof. If it’s humid enough with little air movement, anything will condense.

Insect Protection

The EV2 provides complete insect protection. There are five vents on the tent with mosquito netting and no other way for bugs to get in. That being said, this is a mountaineering tent and not a camping tent. If you want a tent with bug protection and a nice view buy a Coleman. The EV2 front door does not have a mosquito netting backing and there are no large panels of mosquito netting anywhere else on the tent. Under heavy bug pressure, your ventilation, and more importantly, viewing options are limited. Although the tent is fairly bright and cheery inside, it may not be the happiest place to wait out a swarm of mosquitoes.

Durability

The strong and field serviceable Atlas Scandium SL pole set, strong UV resistant VX-O2 panel reinforcements, and the pre-stretched polyester canopy fabric (polyester is also UV resistant) should go a long way to making the EV2 a durable tent. The durable taffeta polyether coated tent floor should be durable enough on most ground that you can skip the footprint and save yourself some weight.

Value

The Mountain Hardwear EV2 is arguably the lightest and most innovative tent in its class. For $625 you get a lot of high tech design and materials. The EV2 is a great tent. Even with its design blemishes, it would be our testers’ first choice for a two-person fast and light ascent. With a few structural improvements EV2 could be an exceptional tent and an excellent value. But the current design falls a bit short of its goal due to the snow load deflection and not-so-taut canopy. The EV2 is a good if not stellar value. We eagerly await the next generation EV2.

Recommendations for Improvement

See possible structural improvements discussed in the “Heavy Snow Loads” section above. A side entry option on the vestibule would be a nice addition.

Tips

The raised floor edges are supposed to be that way! Remember to follow the pitching instructions and leave the tie out webbing at an initial 3-inch length. Don’t cinch the straps more to make the canopy tighter. You’ll only increase floor tension without improving the canopy tension. Make solid side tie outs to stabilize the sided panels and you should obtain a reasonably taut pitch. It takes a bit of practice to get things just so and achieve the best pitch possible (which will likely include a few less than taut tent panels).

Special feature: sneak peak at the upcoming Mountain Hardware EV3

 

Overview

The Nemo Tenshi tent does the best job of avoiding condensation of any tent I’ve used. With waterproof and highly breathable eVENT fabric (much more breathable than Gore-Tex or other laminate fabrics), three vents, and a rear window with bug screen, I experienced extremely minimal, to no, condensation in winter conditions. A removable “condensation curtain” helps further by limiting all condensation to a small area and directing it to a vent. A retractable awning also allows you to leave the door partially unzipped for extra ventilation and effectively protects your gear when entering the tent. At 45 inches tall (114 cm), the Tenshi allows for significant airflow and usable living space.

All of these extras come at the price of weight. Although the Nemo Tenshi tent is only 1 inch wider and 4 inches longer than the discontinued Integral Designs eVENT MK1Lite, it weighs over 2 pounds more. Further, it is taller than several comparable tents, making its side walls steeper and more susceptible to deflection during high winds. That said, the Nemo Tenshi survived being pitched on a ridge top with wind gusts over 70 mph – where I was unable to walk without being blown over – with only minimal damage. Pressure vents in the awning allowed it to remain open all night without damage, proving that it’s tough enough for a mountaineering tent. This is a versatile tent that can take serious weather.

Note: General Electric purchased eVENT and now restricts its use in tents due to flammability considerations. Integral Designs and other manufacturers no longer use eVENT in their tents. The Nemo Equipment Tenshi tent is among a rare few tents that are still constructed of eVENT.

In Brief

• Waterproof and highly breathable eVENT fabric
• Three vents, a rear window, and a door with retractable awning allow excellent ventilation
• Innovative “condensation curtain” focuses condensation in a small area and directs it toward the front vent, and is removable
• The retractable awning can be easily stowed and pressure vents release air gusts
• At around 5.5 pounds, the Tenshi isn’t the lightest single wall tent, but extra features add to its versatility
• Usable space is improved by extra height (3 to 6 inches taller than some comparable tents) and steep side walls, at the cost of increased side deflection in high winds
• Optional insulated floor is bulky and heavy (2 lb 13.9 oz), but may be useful to some

Usable Features / Ease of Use

Setting up the Tenshi is very easy. Like other single wall wedge designs, the poles are set up outside the tent, slipped inside, and flexed into their corner spots. Pole tips are placed into the corner grommets. Velcro tabs are then attached to fix the poles in place. A minimum of five stakes is recommended to achieve the maximum stability and floor space (one at each corner and two for the side guy outs). When conditions were very windy, I was able to set up the tent from inside. However, the Velcro tabs are rather narrow, making them more difficult to attach than on similar tents.

The tent material is eVENT, a fully waterproof material that is far more breathable than comparable Gore-Tex or other laminate fabrics. The Nemo Tenshi is among a rare few tents that are still constructed of eVENT. Dimension-Polyant VX02 fabric is used for increased strength in the canopy and external vent flaps; I have seen this fabric used in several products through the years and it has worked very well.

A unique feature of the Tenshi is the retractable awning. My test sample awning sets up with one pole that is a very tight fit and takes a great deal of shoving to slide into the Velcro attachment. I’ve been assured that this difficulty has been addressed in the production models. The awning features pressure vents that are designed to release pressure during high winds. I found these vents to be extremely effective during a night of high winds when I had the awning deployed. Further, the guy out on the end of the awning added additional stability at the front of the tent.

A rear window is lined with bug mesh and provides cross ventilation and an extra look at the surroundings. This can also be used as a second door in an emergency but isn’t designed to be used regularly. I found it be unneeded in most situations but in warm weather, the cross ventilation was a nice change from most bomber tents, which tend to be pretty stuffy in these conditions.

An optional closed-cell EVA foam floor mates with the Tenshi floor, creating a fully insulated base. The floor weighs 2 pounds 13.9 ounces and costs an additional $89. It is extremely bulky and I never used it in the field, although it may be a useful option for some people.

Weight / Sizing

All of the extra features of the Nemo Tenshi are nice but they come at the price of additional weight. These extras, such as the rear window, three top vents, awning, additional height, and condensation curtain (3.9 oz extra), contribute quite a bit of the 5.5 pound weight of the Tenshi. I would like to see a pared-down version of the tent available.

Compared to the other bomber tents in our review suite, the Nemo Tenshi floor area to weight ratio of 0.35 ft²/oz is close to the Mountain Hardware EV2 (0.36), and lower than the Crux X2 Storm (0.44) but these other tents are much more stable three and four pole designs. The Outdoor Designs Summit Extreme, with an area to weight ratio of 0.52 ft²/oz, has nearly one and a half times the area per ounce, but sacrifices living space. Still, the Tenshi could easily lose weight and retain its size.

Usable Space

When compared to similar tents, the Nemo Tenshi has a taller ceiling height:

• 45 inches: Nemo Tenshi
• 42 inches: Bibler I Tent
• 41 inches: Outdoor Designs Summit Raider
• 39 inches: Integral Designs MK1 XL

This extra height increases the steepness of the walls and the usable space of the tent. This Nemo Tenshi is comfortable for two people to sleep or sit up in, although there isn’t much room left over for gear.

Unlike the Bibler I Tent or Integral Designs MK1 XL, there is no optional full vestibule for the Nemo Tenshi.

Wind Stability

Camped on a ridge in the North Cascades last winter, I had this tent in the most serious winds I’ve ever experienced. Wind gusts that were approximately 70 mph made it impossible to move around camp without crawling. I used all seven of the Tenshi guylines and laid in the darkness, hoping that the tent wouldn’t blow off the mountain or disintegrate. It didn’t, and I was happy to wake up in safety. The Nemo Tenshi can survive serious winds and proved that it is a true bomber tent.

However, these high winds also revealed some problems in the design. While the steep sidewalls increased usable space, they also increased side deflection. Although the side guy outs did a good job of counteracting this, they tensioned the upper portion of the wall much more than the lower section, causing the lower sidewalls to flap in even moderate gusts. Further, having the upper portion of the tent more rigid made the tent unable to “spill” side gusts like some other two-pole tents that lean over slightly to release pressure. The consequence was extra stress on the seams, resulting in several internal Velcro pole attachments coming loose through the night and one ripping free of the tent wall (see Durability below).

Storm Protection

The steep sidewalls helped the Nemo Tenshi to effectively shed snow and rain. During heavy snowfall, keeping the upper vents closed was important because they acted to flatten the roof and cause snow to pile up.

In heavy Washington rains, the Tenshi shed water easily and the eVENT fabric proved to be completely waterproof. When sitting out bad weather, the sufficient usable space and yellow walls made things a bit more comfortable and cheery. We often had to drag our gear inside the tent – a vestibule would be a really nice option to keep wet gear outside the living area.

Ventilation / Condensation Resistance

There is no such thing as a 100% condensation-free fabric. Given subzero conditions, sealed vents, and high levels of humidity and warmth inside a tent, condensation can occur with any fabric. The beauty of eVENT, though, is that the range of conditions in which condensation will not occur (or will be minimal) is much broader than Tegral-Tex (Integral Designs), Todd-Tex (Bibler), Epic (Black Diamond), and even Gore-Tex (Outdoor Designs). With all the vents sealed in conditions well below freezing, the condensation I experienced was extremely minimal. With the three vents open or the door or rear window cracked, I never experienced any condensation at all. I was stunned by the performance of the eVENT fabric.

The Tenshi has three vents that close with Velcro and prop open with small support rods. The side vents have small internal zippers that allow you to reach outside to adjust the vents without leaving the tent. With a bit of a stretch, I could also reach the front vent. This feature was very useful during storm conditions, especially because the awning prevented reaching out the door.

If that wasn’t enough, the Nemo Tenshi also includes a removable “condensation curtain.” This curtain attaches to the sidewalls with Velcro strips and drapes across the chests of the sleepers, trapping moisture in a small portion of the tent and directing it toward an upper vent. When used with the door cracked under the protective awning, specific high/low venting can be achieved. This is a brilliant design that would be well worth the extra 3.9 ounces in subzero conditions. This is a well thought-out innovation that would be especially effective in tents made of less breathable fabrics. However, with the excellent breathability and ventilation of the Tenshi, I found it to be overkill in most situations.

Insect Protection

It’s rare that a mountaineering tent would be found in bug-infested areas below the treeline. However, living with the Tenshi in these situations would be quite comfortable. It has a large door, rear window, and three vents that are all backed with mosquito netting. As temperatures rise, the eVENT fabric would also help to keep things comfortable. This is a very versatile bomber tent.

Durability

(Before commenting on durability, it is important to note that the tent tested was a pre-production model and came with a detailed outline of problems already addressed before the first production run. Flaws found that were addressed in this outline have been indicated.)

During the night of high winds described in the Wind Stability section, the poles were stressed out of the internal Velcro attachments on several occasions. During one of these events, the attachment partially tore from the inner tent wall. Improvements in internal welding are intended to address this problem in production runs.

Another potential durability issue was corner pockets that came loose from the sidewalls. With the resulting gaps, a pole could easily slide behind the pocket and come against the weaker eVENT fabric. Nemo is sewing these corners in production runs to address this possibility.

The only other flaw I found in the tent was door tie-up cords that were too long. Shorter cords or those made of elastic would keep rolled doors and windows closed more securely.

Value

At $675, the Nemo Tenshi is in the upper end of high-end bomber tents but is also made of more expensive (and rare for tents) eVENT fabric. (In fact, the only other eVENT tent that is currently on the market is the Exped Polaris, which retails for $619.) Considering the versatility and amazing condensation-resistance of the Tenshi, the price is reasonable.

However, when you consider that for less money you can pick up a Bibler I Tent or an Integral Designs MK1 XL with the optional vestibule, the decision becomes less obvious. If you’re looking for the ultimate in fabrics, though, you’ll be hard pressed to beat eVENT, and in today’s market, that leaves few options. With the Nemo Tenshi, you’ll have a versatile design that you’ll enjoy for years to come.

Recommendations for Improvement

The Nemo Tenshi is a well thought-out design with many innovative features. It is well-built and will last many seasons of winter and mountaineering use. However, there are some changes that could improve this design:

• I’d like to see a pared-down version without the rear window, canopy, condensation curtain, vent zippers, and front vent. This would not only cut weight, but costs as well, and most of the time I wouldn’t miss the extras.
• An optional vestibule would increase overall usable space by providing a place to put gear and to cook. This would improve the tent’s usability in the winter.
• The cords for door closures need to be shorter or made of different materials.
• Lowering the ceiling height a few inches would improve wind stability with a minimal loss of usable space.
• Lower the side guy outs a few inches. This would put more even tension on the sides of the tent and would reduce flapping and stress.
• Increase the length of the internal Velcro pole attachments so they would take more force to come loose during high winds.