Articles (2020)

Introduction

At less than 1.5 pounds for a 6 foot bag with 2.6 inches of loft on top, the Valandré Mirage delivers a lot of insulation for the weight. With its high-contour cut, shaped footbox and short 13-inch side zip, the Mirage is an extremely efficient mummy bag. It is beautifully constructed of high quality materials. However, its versatility is limited by a lack of certain options.

What’s Good

• High loft for the weight
• Lightweight, highly-breathable, downproof, water-resistant, and soft Asahi Kasei shell
• Shaped cut leaves room for a parka inside, gives extra space in the foot area, and maintains a trim fit from the hips to the ankles
• Short zipper allows for optimum distribution of down
• High-loft 850+ down

What’s Not So Good

• Short 13-inch side zipper offers very minimal ventilation
• Tapered cut is not for large or claustrophobic hikers
• Not cheap at $349

Specifications

Performance

The Valandré Mirage is a mummy bag that weighs a light 23.6 ounces in a size medium. 12.3 ounces of this weight is 850+ fill goose down, which provides 2.6 inches of loft on top of the hiker. It has differential cut baffles for improved lofting. The baffles are open on the sides, allowing some shifting of down from front to back if necessary.

Both the outer shell and lining of the bag are Asahi Kasei Impact 66 which is lightweight, highly breathable, downproof, soft, and surprisingly strong. Even on nights when I got into the bag wearing slightly damp clothing, I found that the bag was dry in the morning with no loft degradation due to the ability of the Asahi Kasei fabric to transport moisture. The fabric is treated with a DWR that gives it some water repellency and it sheds water quickly. However, it will soak through; it is important to keep the bag away from wet floors or tent walls with heavy condensation.

The bag comes with a nylon stuff sack and mesh storage bag. The stuff sack weighs only 0.8 ounces but is a very tight fit for the bag. I am not a fan of small stuff sacks or compression sacks with high loft insulation because of their effect on insulation longevity, so I used a larger stuff sack when field testing the Mirage.

The Mirage has a short 13-inch side zipper that allows for easy entrance and exit as well as limited ventilation. There are no other ventilation options on the bag. The zipper has no draft tube or flap which makes it more susceptible to losing warmth. However, the short length makes this not much of an issue in the field and cinching the hood drawcord creates some bunching and overlap of fabric in that area, blocking most of the zipper. As a result, I never noticed a cold spot in the field, even when sleeping under the stars.

There is no neck collar on the Mirage but the hood closure provides an excellent seal from drafts. Tightening the hood drawcords results in a triangular opening that is perfect for the nose and mouth. The hood is nicely shaped for full insulation around the head and shoulders without excess space when the hood is cinched.

The cordlocks lock together for a good seal without the need for snaps or a Velcro flap. A hard press against the release button is required but it opens easily once you get the hang of it. Once open, exiting the bag is quick and easy.

The Valandré bag has a very dramatic cut, with circumferences going from 62 to 53 to 38 inches (158 to 135 to 97 centimeters) at the shoulder, hip and foot. The taper provides adequate space in the upper body to wear a high loft jacket while providing a snug and highly efficient cut from the hips down. The foot area is shaped, providing enough room for down booties, a warm water bottle or just extra wiggle room. The fit is a good compromise of efficiency while still allowing extra insulation to push the bag into colder temperatures.

At $349, the Valandré Mirage is not a value-priced down bag. However, it is beautifully constructed with high-quality fabric and high-loft down. When compared to similar bags from companies such as Western Mountaineering and Feathered Friends, the price is right in the ballpark and the Valandré offers similar excellent quality with a unique set of features. Despite extensive field testing in a variety of conditions, I never experienced any durability issues and didn’t lose more than a couple of feathers through seams. The Mirage is an excellent value.

Missing from this review (and for all sleeping bag reviews published here, for that matter) will be an assessment of whether or not the sleeping bag performs adequately at temperatures near its manufacturer-reported temperature rating. Click here for the complete Backpacking Light Position Statement on Sleeping Bag Temperature Ratings.

What’s Unique

The Mirage gives excellent loft for the weight. The contoured cut provides enough space to wear a parka inside while giving an efficient fit from the hips down.

Recommendations for Improvement

While the Valandré Mirage is a highly recommended bag, it doesn’t offer many ventilation options, limiting its versatility. While it would add some weight and complexity, an opening in the foot area would be a welcome change, allowing for extra ventilation when temperatures get warmer.

Introduction

The ultralight backpacking community is fortunate to have both Six Moon Designs and Tarptent. With each new model, Ron Moak of Six Moon Designs and Henry Shires of Tarptent vie for the title of best ultralight single-walled shelter. The competition has halved the weight of a traditional two-person tent and saved many of us a couple of pounds without sacrificing weather protection or comfort. But if you have to choose between the Tarptent Squall 2 and the Six Moon Designs Europa, which one will fit your needs best?

Ron and Henry are friends by the way, and this is a friendly competition. They even help each other with tent design. When I called Ron a couple of years ago, Henry was visiting him. I got to talk to both of them about the original Squall and Europa tents.

Both the Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa are highly recommended with exceptional quality in materials and workmanship, outstanding field performance based on sound design principles, and a performance-to-weight ratio at the top of their class. The Squall 2 and Europa have similar designs and similar weights. They both have a rear aluminum hoop pole, mesh vents on the sides, and front beak-style vestibules. Both have a new floating bathtub floor to reduce strain on the silnylon floor fabric and improve floor durability. Each tent has its strengths. Pick the tent that best meets your needs.

Area to Weight Ratio

The Europa has a higher area to weight ratio, 1.31 ft²/oz versus 1.13 ft²/oz for the Squall 2. The Europa has 23% more floor area and 25% more total area. The Squall 2 closes the gap a bit when you sit up, with more headroom due to its dual pole pitch and greater latitude in pitch height. The Squall 2 is lighter at 32 ounces, versus 34 ounces for the Europa.

Living Quarters

Both tents are roomy but the Europa has more floor area and more storage area. The Europa’s 7.5 foot long floor is 9 inches longer overall and 13 inches wider at the rear. That equates to 23% more floor area than the Squall. The Europa also has more storage places outside the main sleeping area to put your gear, like the side areas between the tent canopy and the inner mesh walls and the additional space at the end of the tent. You can move around a bit more easily side to side in the Europa because the mesh walls keep you away from the condensing tent walls. And the overhanging front of the tent means that you can probably skip the vestibule and get much better views and ventilation (assuming the tent is pitched so that rain is not driving in the front).

The Squall 2 has more livable space in the front of the tent when you sit up. The dual pole system of the Squall 2 provides more headroom than the Europa. Two can sit side by side and eat dinner together. The dual front poles and center opening zipper on the Squall 2 give equal access and make it easier to exit the tent without bothering your tent partner. Six Moon Designs addresses the central front entrance pole problem with a cantilevered front entry that allows you to get into the tent behind the front pole. But the side access zipper on the Europa means that one camper has to go across the camper on the zipper side to exit the tent. The Squall’s double poles may help headroom but they do not completely solve the tent exit problem. It is awkward to get around the front guyline on the Squall which is in the center of the tent exit. Nonetheless the camper on the non-zipper side of the Europa has a more difficult exit than either camper in the Squall 2.

Condensation Management

Condensation may be the Achilles heel of single walled shelters, but the Europa does the best job to date at controlling it. The front overhang on the tent is enough that you can skip the vestibule, or just use half, in many conditions. This dramatically increases airflow and reduces condensation compared to a tent with a closed vestibule (especially if you also roll back the mesh door of the Europa). Two thirds of the inner tent walls are mesh for improved ventilation and the mesh keeps sleeping bags away from wet outer walls.

The steeper sidewalls and more headroom on the Squall 2 help reduce brushes against wet inner tent walls when exiting the tent. But the lower wall protection of the Europa’s larger mesh walls probably matters more because it keeps sleeping bags from extended rests against wet tent walls while sleeping.

Pitching

It is easier to get a good pitch in the Squall 2 and the resulting pitch is tauter than anything you can achieve in the Europa. The Squall 2 has a slightly more complex pitch with two poles (requires a bit more tweaking) and four stakes. The Squall 2 is somewhat more flexible about front pole height, which you can vary a number of inches without significantly affecting the tautness or quality of the tent’s pitch.

The Europa has a slightly simpler pitch with a single pole and four stakes. It pitches very quickly once you have the front pole height dialed-in. Both tents have a limited range of pitch heights that will keep the tent body taut and let the bathtub floor locate correctly. But the Europa is pickier and only comes reasonably taut at a narrow range of pole heights (around 48 inches is best). If you vary the tent pitch height as the Six Moon Designs literature suggests, the tent body loses some tension and the floor geometry is off by a bit. The front tieout angle on the Europa may be too steep to apply full tension to the ridgeline.

Stability

The Squall 2 has a tauter pitch and tauter ridgeline. The dual poles add some side-load stability to the tent. The additional side tieouts on the edge of the fly also add considerable side stability. They are much more effective than the middle of the side tieouts on the Europa.

Weather Protection

A slight nod goes to the Europa. Both tents do a good job of keeping rain out. Both have good bathtub floors. The Europa has a larger overall protected area (area under the entire tent fly, not just the floor and vestibule). The overhanging front of the Europa provides better rain protection with the vestibule open or half open. This and a better vestibule vent make it easier to cook and get views and ventilation in rainy conditions. The vestibule on the Europa is larger and extends closer to the ground. With the two-pole design on the Squall, water can pool on the flat dual ridgeline surface as the tent looses tension in a strong downpour.

Vestibule

The Europa has a better vestibule. With the Europa’s overhanging front you may not need to use the vestibule (although we wish they would go back to the more substantial overhang in the previous model). The Europa has a larger vestibule that extends closer to the ground. The Europa also has a more functional vestibule/cooking vent. The side areas on the Europa between the canopy and the inner mesh walls also make a good vestibule-like storage area and give you a place to put shoes and such if you decide to keep the front vestibule open. But the vestibules in both tents need help. The center Velcro closure is difficult to reach and fasten from inside the tent. It is difficult to close from outside the tent when under normal tension. In both tents, the vestibule angle limits the front tieout to a very specific angle.

Conclusion

Both tents are superb examples of ultralight two-person shelters with full weather and bug protection. Although there are many similarities between the tents, there are enough differences in design and performance that an understanding of those differences and your preferences and use patterns should help you choose between the two.

The Six Moon Designs Europa is probably the better all-round tent for most backpackers. It has more room, a higher area to weight ratio, more storage, and a bit more rain protection. It has significantly better condensation resistance. The overhanging front entry and huge mesh walls are major contributors to its better condensation management. With the vestibule open and unavailable for weather protected storage, there is still plenty of room in the rear of the tent and along the sides under the fly to stow gear. Most times you can cook under the shelter of the overhanging front without worrying about humidity buildup in the tent or poor ventilation caused by a closed vestibule. And an open vestibule gives you better views and less claustrophobia.

If you push the limits of tarp tenting and camp above tree line where high winds are possible, then the Tarptent Squall 2 may be a better choice. It has a tauter pitch and is more stable. The dual poles, better side tieouts, and tauter pitch give it greater resistance to strong side winds. There is the option to drop the pitch height to a lower and more wind-resistant profile.

The Squall 2 has more headroom in the front of the tent. If sitting side by side is a high priority then the Squall 2 may be a more attractive option. Two can sit up and comfortably eat dinner in the Squall. We think the dual pole WOW! factor may be a major reason why people buy the Squall.

Note for tall campers: the Europa provides almost a foot more length.

Introduction

Six Moon Designs and Tarptent continually compete to make the best ultralight single-walled tent on the market. In keeping with the competition, the revised Six Moon Designs Europa (updated in 2005) is an improvement over its predecessor and a serious competitor to the popular Tarptent Squall 2. The Europa is exceptionally large for a full-featured 2-pound tent and has one of highest area to weight ratios we’ve seen in a tent. At 7.5 feet long inside, the Europa will accommodate the tallest backpackers. Like the Squall 2, the Europa is a complete, full featured tent for around 2 pounds with bug protection, weather protection, a full bathtub floor and a vestibule you can cook in. It has a fast setup with a single pole and only four stakes. But of course it’s not perfect…

Refer to Comparison: Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa for a detailed discussion of the differences between these two tents.

What’s Good

• Large floor area and very high area to weight ratio. Interior length of 7.5 feet is great for tall sleepers and leaves dry storage room in rear of tent
• Gaps between tent canopy and interior mesh walls can be used as secondary vestibules
• Excellent condensation resistance for a non-breathable single-wall tent
• Overhang on front of tent allows use of tent in rain without vestibule in many conditions, substantially improving ventilation, condensation resistance and views in rainy conditions
• Huge amounts of mesh (two thirds of the interior tent walls are mesh) provide excellent ventilation and keeps sleeping bags away from condensing tent walls
• Doors and beak are easily rolled up for full ventilation and views. Rolling up door mesh increases air flow and ventilation and significantly decreases condensation
• Floating bathtub floor reduces floor tension and minimizes punctures from sharp objects – important for a light 1.3 oz/yd² silnylon floor
• Fast, four stake, single trekking pole setup. Webbing and buckle guy line adjusters on all tent cords. Can adjust tent tension without going outside
• Large beak vestibule provides excellent protection but has enough of a gap at the bottom for good airflow. Stiffened vestibule vent stays open in rain

What’s Not So Good

• Fussy about pitch. Can only get tent body taut when front pole height is in a narrow range
• Vestibule works only with a very specific tie-out cord angle, which may be a bit too steep to apply full tension to the tent’s ridgeline
• With a singe front pole, the tent entry area is somewhat cramped for two people to sit side by side
• Center Velcro closure on beak/vestibule is difficult to close

Specifications

Performance

At just over 2 pounds and 45 square feet (floor plus vestibule), the Europa has one of the highest area to weight ratios we’ve seen in a tent. Quarters are spacious for two large adults with additional floor space and storage to spare. Two inside pockets provide storage for small items. With the vestibule open, there is storage along the side of the tent wall but under the fly. The 7.5 foot long floor provides plenty of storage area in the rear of the tent – enough for both backpacks and additional gear.

The Europa is a single wall tent constructed of silicone-impregnated ripstop nylon. It uses a single aluminum hoop pole in the rear and a trekking pole in front (or an optional fixed length pole). The Europa sets up with four stakes and has the option of using two more with side guyouts. The Europa has perimeter no-see-um netting for bug protection and a front door that opens along the bottom and right side. The front mesh door stows away with Velcro tabs. In humid conditions leave the mesh pulled back if possible to reduce condensation in the tent – mesh across the door opening slows airflow a surprising amount.

The standard Europa package includes the tent body with attached floor, a generously sized silnylon tent stuff sack, and a rear hoop pole. You supply the front pole, usually a trekking pole, but a fixed-length carbon pole can be purchased from Six Moon Designs. You’ll need to supply four stakes (six if you use the side guy outs) since, astonishingly, this $290 tent does not come with stakes. We recommend using a 0.3-ounce Easton aluminum stake (available from Six Moon Designs and other suppliers) for the center guyout. Standard titanium stakes are fine for the rest of the guyouts in most situations.

The current Europa preserves the cantilevered (overhanging) front found in earlier versions. This design eases entry into the tent by moving the center pole away from the door. Additionally it provides a covered area that keeps rain out of the tent when the vestibule is open and creates a protected cooking area.

The overhanging front entry is a significant reason for the Europa’s excellent condensation resistance. Being able to leave the vestibule fully or half open in many conditions, dramatically increases airflow and reduces condensation over a tent with a closed vestibule (especially if you also roll back the Europa’s mesh door). With the vestibule open there is still plenty of room in the rear of the tent and along the sides under the fly to stow gear without need for the vestibule. The 7.5 foot length of the tent floor allows you to scoot back from the entrance a bit to stay even more out of the rain. Most times you can cook under the shelter of the overhanging front without worrying about humidity buildup in the tent and the poor ventilation caused by a closed vestibule. As a bonus, an open vestibule gives you better views and reduces claustrophobia.

The Europa goes up in just a few minutes. The rear pole slides into a rear sleeve and is held in place by a grommet on each side. The front pole is then inserted into a grommet and erected with a single guy line. Corner guy lines are staked and tensioned. Finally the rear hoop is repositioned to even out the sidewall tension by moving it back slightly. The Europa has webbing and buckle guyline adjusters at all front guy line attachments that make proper tensioning (and nighttime adjustments) very easy. The front guy line adjustment is cleverly upside-down to make adjustment from inside the tent easier.

We recommend anchoring the center guy line with an Easton aluminum stake. For a similar weight, the Easton stakes are stronger and have more holding power than standard 0.25-ounce titanium skewer stakes, which is important, especially in soft soils, as the front guyline takes a lot of tension due to a very steep angle.

The Europa pitches very quickly once you have the front pole height dialed-in. This tent is very picky about front pole height and only comes reasonably taut at a narrow range of pole heights. We found it worked best around 48 inches (120 cm). If you vary the tent pitch height as the SMD literature suggests, the tent body looses some tension and the floor doesn’t hang quite right. The front tie-out angle on the Europa may be a bit too steep to apply full tension to the ridgeline.

The floating bathtub floor of the Europa is an improvement over the previous model. The floor is attached at the corners with elastic cords allowing you to achieve a taut pitch on the tent body independent of floor tension. This leaves the floor under minimal tension, which reduces punctures from sharp objects under the floor. The elastic cords raise the bathtub sides of the floor so that the tent stays drier in splashing rain and stays cleaner in dusty conditions.

In rainy conditions, the silnylon canopy of the Europa extends beyond the floor below by almost a foot, providing solid rain protection. The Europa does well with splashing rain, particularly along the sides and in the front corners where the bathtub floor and tent wall overhang do a creditable job of keeping rain out. When needed, the vestibule provides over 10 square feet of well protected storage area.

The new Europa’s larger and lower-extending vestibule does a better job than previous models’ of protecting gear stored outside the tent. The vestibule still provides good ventilation. A clip attachment to the front guy line is easy to use and the beak rolls away to the sides with Velcro tabs when not in use. The center Velcro closure on the vestibule is hard to close when under proper tension.

We found the Europa durable enough for normal use. If you don’t pitch it on rough surfaces such as gravel or sharp sticks the Europa will give years of reliable performance in the field. We did use care when on sharp or rocky surfaces and in those conditions used a light spinnaker groundsheet under the tent floor. We also have a few reservations about the very taut front guyline. We think that reducing the guyline angle may help reduce the guyline tension while still achieving a taut ridgeline.

What’s Unique

If you’re not intending to use the Europa above tree line in intense winds it is probably the finest 2-pound two person shelter on the market. The Europa provides the best combination of a huge interior living area, storage area, amenities and condensation management that we have seen in a fully featured 2-pound tent.

What is unique about Europa is its condensation resistance. Two thirds of the inner tent walls are mesh for improved ventilation and the mesh keeps sleeping bags away from the condensing outer walls. The overhanging front of the tent also contributes to the excellent condensation resistance.

Recommendations for Improvement

• The Europa has room for improvement on the tautness of its pitch. It does not get quite as taut as the Squall 2 and is more particular about front pole height. It doesn’t allow the multiple height pitching that Six Moon Designs suggests (it loses tension at lower pitch heights). We suspect that the overall tent geometry needs to be tweaked – possibly with a more catenary-like ridgeline. A less steeply sloped front tieout might also help put more tension on the ridgeline and less on the front guyline.
• We love the overhanging front of the tent but wish it had even more overhang – as much as the previous model Europa or possibly more. This would allow rolling back the vestibule in even more inclement weather conditions.
• The center Velcro closure on the vestibule is difficult to secure. We understand that it will be replaced with a zipper in future models.
• The tent’s side pockets hit the floor. We suggest moving them up so they hang correctly.

Introduction

The Tarptent Squall 2 is an update of the popular Squall single wall tent. It offers full weather and bug protection in a lightweight 2 pound package. It features a floating bathtub floor that keeps the sleeping area dry while taking tension off the fabric, increasing floor durability and waterproofing. The doorway can be set up with single or dual poles, the dual pole pitch giving better entrance access and wind stability. The Squall 2 can be set up with only four stakes in just a few minutes and has simple adjusters for easy tensioning. However, it is more complex than the original and not all the design changes are perfect. How does the Squall 2 stand up to the original design?

And how does it stack up against the Six Moon Designs Europa (which gives the Squall 2 a serious run for the money)? Read Comparison: Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa for a detailed discussion of the differences between these two fine tents.

What’s Good

• At 2 pounds, it’s very light for a floored shelter with full rain and bug protection
• Increased headroom and usable space
• Floating bathtub floor is waterproof and durable
• Dual trekking pole set-up opens entryway and increases wind stability
• Beak-style vestibule offers good protection while still allowing airflow
• Doors and beak are easily rolled up for full ventilation and views
• New guyline adjusters are simple, lightweight, and easy to use

What’s Not So Good

• Less wind stability when set up with a single pole
• Front strut needs to be removed to easily fit in the tube-shaped stuff sack
• Front vent is not very functional
• Condensation issues in still, high humidity conditions
• Water can pool slightly near the rear hoop

Specifications

Performance

The Tarptent Squall has been a favorite among ultralight backpackers for years. The updated Squall 2 won the Backpacking Light Lightitude Award for Best Single Wall Shelter in 2005, and for good reason. It has several important updates that increase its comfort and usability while maintaining much of the simplicity and aesthetics of the original.

The Tarptent Squall 2 is a single wall tent that is constructed of silicone-impregnated ripstop nylon. It uses a single hoop in the rear, a short horizontal strut pole at the front, and the option of one or two poles or trekking poles for front support. The tent features dual catenary ridgelines, as opposed to the single catenary ridgeline of the original. Like the original, the Squall 2 sets up with four stakes and has the option of using two more with side guyouts. Also like the original, the Squall 2 provides full perimeter bug netting for complete bug protection and a front door that opens in an inverted “T” and stows away with Velcro tabs.

Included with the shelter are the tent body with attached floor, silnylon tent stuff sack, rear hoop pole and front strut (both Easton 7075 aluminum), four stakes, and a silnylon stake pouch. While this tent came with titanium stakes, Tarptent now provides Easton aluminum stakes that are stronger and hold better for the same weight. Single or dual front poles aluminum poles are available for those who don’t use trekking poles.

With some practice, setting up the Tarptent is possible in just a few minutes. The rear pole easily slides into a rear sleeve and is held in place by a grommet on each side. The front pole is then inserted into a grommet and erected with a single guyline. Corner guylines are staked and tensioned. Finally the rear hoop is repositioned to even out the sidewall tension by moving it back slightly. Unlike earlier Tarptents which required restaking for tension adjustments, the Squall 2 has guyline adjusters at all front guyline attachments that make proper tensioning (and nighttime adjustments) very easy.

At just over two pounds, the Squall 2 provides comfortable living space for two large adults. The flat top and dual ridgelines caused by the front strut increase headroom dramatically in the Squall 2 and the more vertical sidewalls add to the usable space. Unlike the original, it is now possible for two adults to sit up side by side instead of having room for only one. With the floating floor design it is also possible to increase the front height of the tent using extendable trekking poles, further increasing headroom and usable space. Two inside pockets provide storage for small items and in clear conditions, the mesh area alongside the tent outside of the bathtub floor provides tons of extra storage.

The dual ridgelines do make a difference in wind stability when compared to the original Tarptent Squall. When using only one pole, the front strut causes some side to side sway that wasn’t present in the original. However, using two poles in the front eliminates any loss of wind stability. In fact, I found that the dual poles actually increased wind stability over the original; while the Squall 2 is not a shelter for high winds, it is quite stable in moderate winds when using two front poles and the optional side guyouts.

The floating bathtub floor of the Squall 2 is a huge improvement over previous floored models. The floor is attached at the corners with elastic cords that give the protection of a bathtub floor while adding no tension to the main tent body. The result is a floor that stays drier in splashing rain and stays cleaner in dusty conditions than in previous models. The design has adjustable tension, works perfectly, and is brilliant in its simplicity.

For those that prefer floorless shelters, a floorless model is still available that has bug netting that tucks underneath a ground sheet and saves 7 ounces. However, those that live in rainy environments should seriously consider the floored model because it addresses a major problem with earlier Squalls and floorless models: splashing rain.

In rainy conditions, the silnylon body of the floorless Squall 2 overlaps the ground sheet below, providing solid rain protection. When camping on hard surfaces in driving rain, though, it is difficult to keep things dry due to splashing rain, particularly along the sides and in the front corners. With earlier models of the Squall 2 (with or without a sewn in floor), it was often necessary to move all of the gear to the middle of the tent and under the middle of the beak-type vestibule. With the bathtub floor of the Squall 2, this is no longer an issue; as long as gear is inside the floor area, it will stay dry in all but the worst windblown rain conditions.

The Squall 2 also has a beak that comes lower to the ground than previous models (this became an option in 2003 and is now standard). This lower beak does a much better job of protecting gear stored outside the tent while still providing good ventilation. A clip attachment to the front guyline is easy to use and the beak rolls away to the sides with Velcro tabs when not in use.

Ventilation in the Squall 2 is very good for a single wall tent. In conditions with even a slight breeze, the full perimeter mesh and mesh front door provide good airflow that keeps things dry. When bugs and precipitation are not a problem, leaving the mesh doors open eliminates any possibility of condensation. In still, high-humidity conditions that require closing up the door and vestibule, such as I experienced in Washington and Newfoundland, condensation in the Squall 2 becomes more of an issue. However, moisture is easily managed – condensation that accumulates on the tent walls runs down and drips outside of the floor area (another bonus for the bathtub floor design).

Durability of the Tarptent Squall 2 was never an issue in my testing but extra care is needed when using silnylon shelters. If you keep fire away from the tent and make sure not to pitch it on rough surfaces such as gravel, a Tarptent will give many years of reliable performance in the field. My only issue is with the long, tube-shaped stuff sack that is typical of Tarptents. The tube-shape is difficult to stuff and I blew the drawstring seam when trying to insert the tent. I quickly learned to remove the front strut when stuffing the tent into the provided sack. While the system is designed for rolling rather than stuffing, I did not find this to be an easy solution either.

While the Tarptent Squall 2 is approaching perfection in a three-season single wall shelter, not all of the improvements are perfect. The beak found in earlier Tarptents was one piece that attached permanently at one side and attached to the other with a Velcro strip. The beak of the Squall 2, though, splits down the middle and secures in the center with a long strip of Velcro. While this gives the additional flexibility of leaving just one-half of the beak closed, it is also more difficult to neatly close because the Velcro strips have to be aligned under tension. It is also difficult to close while inside the tent. This is not a big deal but can be a little annoying at times.

Another aspect of the new beak design is the addition of a front vent. While the front corner of the tent can now be left open to aid in ventilation, the lack of a stiffened brim or flap means that the vent also allows rain to enter the vestibule area. I consider the front vent more of a work in progress than a functional vent.

One reviewer noticed a very minor issue with the flat ridgeline – the tendency of water to pool slightly near the rear hoop. This is more of a problem after the tent has sagged slightly after heavy downpours. This slight pooling never caused any water to leak.

What’s Unique

The Tarptent Squall 2 is nearly perfect as a three-season single wall shelter. Several design improvements such as the dual pole/dual ridgeline, floating bathtub floor, adjustable front guylines, and extended beak add features and versatility for a weight penalty of less than 1/2 pound over previous designs. It is a marvelous tent that definitely deserves its 2005 Lightitude Award for Single Wall Tents.

Recommendations for Improvement

While the Squall 2 is nearly perfect, I would like to see a design change with the vestibule and front vent. Going back to the previous design where the beak was permanently attached to the side is one idea. Another possibility is to use a wire-stiffened brim or a vent support to make the vent fully functional in all conditions.

I would also like to see the tube-shaped stuff sack change into a shorter, rounder sack with a separate pole stuff sack or an integrated pole sleeve. It is a hassle to remove the aluminum strut, which is necessary to relieve stress on the seams of the stuff sack. I quickly ditched the included sack in favor of a different shaped bag. However, many people seem to love the tube design for easy packing so this may be only a personal issue.

Introduction

The Hilleberg Kaitum is a tunnel tent that delivers excellent livable space for its sub-6-pound weight. With dual doors and vestibules, an effective ventilation system, and serious storm and wind protection, it is a tent that will help you not only survive the storm but enjoy your time there. But is there a weakness to the design of the Kaitum?

What’s Good

• Total area to weight ratio of 0.64 ft²/oz is outstanding for a bomber tent and a sub-6-pound weight is very respectable for a tent in this class
• Vertical sidewalls offer excellent usable space
• Dual doors and dual 13 square foot vestibules are great for two climbers getting ready on summit days or having separate areas for gear storage and cooking
• Eight V-guylines and 10 stakeout points provide rock solid wind stability in the highest winds
• Ventilation system is very effective in humid conditions or when cooking
• Excellent product quality and light, durable fabrics

What’s Not So Good

• Tunnel design creates a flat top that can pile with snow and needs to be cleared often during heavy snowfall
• Not cheap at $595, but in the ballpark for a bomber tent of this quality
• Requires the use of multiple stakes and guylines for a strong pitch
• Overall length of nearly 14 feet makes it difficult to pitch in tight quarters

Specifications

Performance

The Hilleberg Kaitum is a fine example of the Scandinavian tunnel design, using three DAC Featherlite aluminum poles and stakes for non-freestanding support. The tunnel design minimizes the weight and length of poles required. This saves a lot of weight compared to other bomber tents while still providing good storm worthiness. It uses a blend of proprietary Hilleberg fabrics including Kerlon 1200 silicone nylon for the outer tent and more abrasion resistant PU-coated nylon for the floor. The package includes the tent body, poles with one repair sleeve, 16 stakes (eight V-shaped Viper and eight needle-type Square stakes), and three stuff sacks for the tent, poles, and stakes.

Over 30 years ago, Hilleberg was the first company to produce a commercial tent that had linked inner and outer tents and the Kaitum is the latest example of this design. To pitch the Kaitum, you first stake out one end of the outer tent. Poles (one is longer for the middle and is marked) are inserted into sleeves in the outer tent, placed in plastic pole pockets, and tightened. The tent is then pulled into shape by pulling at the opposite end and staking it to achieve a minimum pitch. Eight guylines and a total of 10 stakeouts are available to ensure a bomber pitch – using the side guylines is recommended for wind stability and increased interior space. Guylines and end stakeout points are adjustable for a taut pitch. The process of pitching the Kaitum can easily be done in less than five minutes, even in moderate winds and when wearing gloves.

I didn’t mention pitching the inner tent because, like most Hilleberg designs, the inner tent is attached to the outer tent via elastic toggles and the two are pitched simultaneously. The beauty of this design is that the inner tent is fully protected by the fly during setup in pouring rain or during a snowstorm. The inner tent can easily be detached from the outer fly, allowing you to move sections of the inner tent out of the way for increased vestibule space. The inner tent can also be completely detached. With this system, the inner tent can be carried separately from a wet outer tent to keep it dry, or left at home completely for a bomber floorless shelter.

With a set of Hilleberg’s Pole Holders ($1.80) it is possible to attach the poles directly to the inner tent, allowing the inner tent to be pitched by itself. This adds versatility, making the Kaitum more comfortable to use in warm conditions, and the water-resistant nylon of the inner tent stands up well to an occasional sprinkle. With a cost of only $1.80, I think the Pole Holders should be included with the tent.

Other usable features include four interior pockets, an adjustable tension clothesline that runs the length of the inner tent, dual nylon/mesh zippered doors, a large vent at each end, and two large vestibules. An optional footprint ($50) is available.

For truly extreme conditions the pole sleeves and pole tensioner cups are wide enough to fit an additional pole set ($85). Despite serious winter storms and wind gusts over 60 mph, I never had a need for the dual-pole option but it may be useful in brutal conditions such as winter Arctic treks and the like.

The Hilleberg Kaitum is a very long tent, measuring nearly 14 feet in overall length (over twice the length of an Integral Designs MK1 Lite). While this excludes the tent from being pitched in tight spots, the tradeoff is an incredible amount of living space for its less than 6 pounds of weight.

The inner tent is long enough for climbers well over 6 feet tall sleeping end to end and is wide enough to be comfortable with high-loft down bags. In a pinch, the Kaitum could reasonably accommodate a third climber, although not very comfortably. With an inner tent area of 32.3 square feet, the Kaitum never feels cramped. Further, the nearly-vertical sidewalls maximize usable space and the interior height (40 inches) is tall enough to sit up and move around without sacrificing the tent’s ability to deflect side gusts. A slightly taller center pole makes the tent more spacious in the middle while also improving fabric tension, rain shedding, and creating a more aerodynamic wind profile.

The dual doors and vestibules are outstanding features of the Kaitum. Each vestibule measures 13 square feet for a total area of 26 square feet, nearly doubling the overall area of the tent. With side-entry doors on the vestibules, it’s easy to enter and exit the tent without tripping over gear or stoves and the vestibules can be easily rolled away for excellent views. While I initially thought the dual vestibules would be overkill, I quickly saw their utility: on a gear-intensive climbing trip, we each had our own personal closet and door, making organization and early morning prep fast and easy, and on winter trips we used one vestibule for storage and the other as a dedicated cooking area. During a winter climb that ended in a torrential downpour, all five guys were able to spread out in the tent with feet in the vestibules of the Kaitum for a game of cards, turning a miserable trip into great fun. I LOVE the dual vestibules.

The Hilleberg Kaitum features two large zippered vents, one on each end. A 20-inch wide wired awning covers each vent and has its own guyline that attaches to the vent at three points. The large 17 inch wide by 14 inch tall zippered vent flap can be opened partway or rolled at the bottom and secured with a toggle. Even when fully closed, the upper 7 inches of the flap (made of a tightly woven nylon mesh) ensures that there is always some airflow without allowing any water or spindrift to enter the tent. The inner tent doors are dual ripstop nylon/no-see-um mesh, allowing you to regulate airflow into the inner tent. The doors zip almost completely off and conveniently tuck neatly into the interior pockets.

To avoid condensation in the Kaitum, it is important to use the ventilation options. When closing up the tent completely, I did experience significant condensation on the inner tent. However, by cracking the outside vents and the inner nylon doors, the cross-tent airflow quickly dried things out. By fully opening the system, it is possible to have a strong cross-wind breeze; this was especially helpful during a winter trip on Mt. Hood in Oregon when we were able to hang damp clothes on the clothesline and dry them out through the night (yes- actually DRY them!).

A nice feature of the water-resistant inner tent is that any condensed water that splashes from the wet outer tent easily beads up and runs down, keeping the inner tent totally dry. The tradeoff is that the fabric of the inner tent doesn’t breathe quite as well as other nylon fabrics, sometimes leading to condensation on the inner walls that can freeze and “snow” on you when hitting the tent walls. Again, by leaving the vents open a bit, the steady airflow cuts down on this condensation dramatically.

The V-guylines are very effective at providing even tension on the side walls of the tent and give double the attachment points for extra security. When pitching the Kaitum, I typically used all eight guylines plus the four stakeout points at the end for a total of twelve stakes. With this setup, it is easy to achieve a drum-tight tension that stands up well to high winds and is extremely secure. During winter storms, the Kaitum didn’t flinch with wind gusts over 60 mph. When winds hit the vestibule ends of the tent, they spilled over and were hardly felt inside the tent. Similar winds hitting the side walls occasionally produced a loud “rumbling” sound which was caused by vibration of the taut sidewalls, but wind spilled over the top causing no problems other than a little noise. I would fully trust the Hilleberg Kaitum in windy conditions that exceed those found during testing.

Snowstorms that bring serious accumulations of snow, especially the wet variety, highlight the compromise of the tunnel design: a flat roof. While the roof of the Kaitum is slightly angled, allowing it to quickly shed rain and sleet, it allows snow to pile much more quickly than wedge or dome-style tents. During times of high snowfall, such as the foot of wet, heavy snow that dumped on the tent during one storm, it was important to frequently slap the sides of the tent to clear accumulated snow. This is typically not a big deal and worth the tradeoff of lighter weight and better usable space that comes with a tunnel design. However, if left alone in a major storm there is a real possibility of accumulations that can lead to ceiling sag and, in the worst conditions, pole failure and ceiling collapse. In Washington we have some of the greatest snow accumulations in the country and after several major storms in the Kaitum, I am very comfortable with its performance; that said, I wouldn’t leave it alone for several hours during a major storm.

I enjoyed living with the Kaitum during conditions that delivered heavy snow, high winds, frozen rain, torrential downpours, windblown sleet, and hail that was painful to stand in. Despite these conditions, the Hilleberg showed no durability issues and looks as new as the day I got it. All materials used to build this tent are top quality.

Sweden-based Hilleberg is a family-owned and operated business and each of their tents are built by hand at their factory in Estonia. Each tent includes a sewn-in label that says who built the tent – mine says, “made by Sirje Hansen,” and I can tell you that his workmanship is top-notch and on-par with the two other Hilleberg tents I’ve had the joy of using. Sure, $595 is a lot to pay for a tent, but in the case of the Kaitum, you certainly get a lot for your money and will have a tent to last many seasons.

What’s Unique

The package of dual doors, dual vestibules, effective ventilation system, outstanding usable space for the weight, solid wind stability, and good storm protection make the Hilleberg Kaitum a bomber tent that is a joy to live with in the hardest winter and alpine conditions.

Recommendations for Improvement

For those looking for a tent that can handle greater snow loads, Hilleberg and other manufacturers make wedge and dome tents that fit the bill. However, if you are willing to make the compromise of snow load maintenance for lighter weight, better usable space, and a giant living and vestibule area, the Kaitum delivers a nearly-perfect design. I’m not a fan of needle stakes and would have preferred titanium skewers or Easton aluminum pegs which are stronger, lighter, and easier on the hands. Also, for a tent at this price, it would be nice if the $1.80 Pole Holders were included. Besides these nitpicks, though, I wouldn’t change a thing.

Introduction

Due in September 2006, the Nimbus Meridian joins Granite Gear’s Light Backpack series that is designed to carry a sizeable load with comfort. This pack is a thru-hikers’ delight, as demonstrated by Justin Lichter’s odyssey across North America, carrying it 8000 miles (so far). It’s also dead on for the lightweight backpacker. This remarkable pack is lighter than most of the competition in its class, yet it’s durable, loaded with usable features, and comfortably carries a substantial load.

What’s Good

• Light weight for its volume and weight carrying capacity
• Lightweight composite frame is flexible and effectively transfers weight
• Suspension system easily adjusts for a perfect fit
• Firm, comfortable shoulder harness and hipbelt
• Soft foam backpanel covered with Schoeller Dynamic fabric
• Top lid removes easily and converts to a fanny pack with its own waist belt
• Top pocket is removable to reduce pack weight by 7.7 ounces
• Lots of attachment options
• Rugged Riri water-resistant zippers operate smoothly
• Full-height zippered access to the main compartment
• Lightweight yet durable fabrics

What’s Not So Good

• Lower side compression straps wrap over the side pockets
• No hipbelt pockets (but accessory pockets are available)

Specifications

Overview

The new Nimbus Meridian combines many of Granite Gear’s proven load-carrying and comfort technologies with a new feature set, all focused on the needs of the serious thru-hiker or lightweight backpacker.

Before I get into the technical details, let’s get familiar with the Nimbus Meridian. At 3800 cubic inches and 3.6 pounds, it’s just the right size for a lightweight backpacker who wants to camp and eat well, or the thru-hiker who wants to extend the distance between re-supplies. The following photo gallery provides some close-up views so you can see the pack’s design and features.

Performance

Frame and Suspension

It would be hard not to get a perfect fit with this pack. The Nimbus Meridian comes in two frame sizes (regular fits 18-22 inch torsos; short fits 14-18 inch torsos), each frame has five positions to adjust shoulder strap height, and there are four shoulder strap sizes and four hipbelt sizes available – for both men and women. Overall, this allows adjustment for torso lengths of 14 to 22 inches, chest circumference of 27 to 52 inches, and waist circumference of 26 to 42 inches.

As the name implies, this pack is based on Granite Gear’s Nimbus suspension system. Its molded composite (thermoplastic) framesheet is reinforced with vinyl ester and glass fibers. The thin framesheet is lightweight, vertically stiff, and laterally flexible. This means it will support a heavy load and transfer weight to the hipbelt, yet it is flexible enough to allow the load lifters to pull the load against your back and twist with your movements.

I tested the Nimbus Meridian on lightweight backpacking trips over a 6-month period, carrying loads ranging from 22 to 32 pounds. It was extremely comfortable to carry under all conditions, with volume and weight-carrying capacity to spare. To see what it would do at the high end, I loaded the pack up with 2-liter bottles of water and day hiked with it with weight ranging from 45 to 30 pounds. It carried the freight and put the weight on my hips. Wide shoulder straps are available for carrying heavier loads. Although the Nimbus Meridian can comfortably carry more weight for a strong person, I estimated its comfortable load carrying capacity for an average person at 35 pounds.

Features and Utility

The Nimbus Meridian has excellent attachment capability, although it is not designed for winter trips (no shovel pocket, crampon pad, or ski loops). Compression straps or accessory straps are provided on the sides, front, and top pocket for attaching gear or extra pockets to the outside of the pack.

Assessment

I can easily say that the new Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian is my favorite lightweight internal frame medium volume backpack. It is made of lightweight durable fabrics, adjusts to achieve a perfect fit, has plenty of volume and attachment options, has a flexible frame and harness system that accommodates my movements, and comfortably carries a heavy load. With all these features and capability, it still weighs well under 4 pounds.

By comparison, the 2006 Osprey Aether 60 has similar volume and most of the features and utility of the Meridian, but it does not have frontpanel access or a convertible top pocket, and now weighs over 4 pounds. The Mountainsmith TrekLight AT-55 has similar volume, lots of outside pockets, and a capable suspension system, but its top pocket to fanny pack conversion is a bust and the pack weighs even more. The Ultralight Adventure Equipment (ULA) Catalyst pack has similar volume and weighs 14 ounces less, but it lacks a top pocket, adjustable torso length, and zippered access to the main compartment. Overall, compared to the competition, the Nimbus Meridian offers a heck of a lot of features and usability, while still keeping weight at only 3.6 pounds. It costs $25-$50 more than the other packs mentioned, but it is still a good value considering its extra features and comfort.

What’s Unique

The Nimbus suspension system is lightweight, yet is still highly supportive and flexible, and allows direct torso length adjustment. With two framesheet sizes, five shoulder strap height adjustments, four shoulder strap sizes (plus an extra wide option), two shoulder strap widths, and four hipbelt sizes (for both men and women), the Nimbus Meridian will adjust to fit most anyone and carry heavy loads. Also, the Riri AquaZip zippers are a nice touch; they are both durable and water-resistant.

Recommendations for Improvement

For once, I have little to say in this section. The lower side compression straps tighten over the side pockets, but I did not find it to be a significant issue. I either left the straps loose or snugged them up over the filled pockets to retain the contents. However, the straps could be routed behind the pockets.

Introduction

My wife laughed at it. My kids giggled. Another Backpacking Light editor (whose identity I’ve sworn to protect) even amusedly called it "hilarious." However, I like the Balloonbed. What other product gives you a two-inch thick sleeping pad for under three ounces? If your hiking partners tease you about it, just stare them down while wearing a balloon-animal hat!

What’s Good

• Extremely light
• Excellent comfort/weight ratio
• Very low pack volume
• Ability to use spare balloons to amuse your friends
• Can be filled with helium and lashed to your pack to really cut down packweight

What’s Not So Good

• Narrow (although a thicker/wider version is available using larger balloons)
• Balloons occasionally burst
• Time consuming set up
• Difficult to tie balloons with cold fingers
• Balloons are a one-time-use consumable item

Specifications

Performance

Setup

Setting up the Balloonbed is straightforward. With a little practice, each balloon can be pumped up in less than a minute, though if you’re too enthusiastic, it’s possible to overinflate them so they’re too long for the shell and difficult to tie off. A couple of practice balloons are advised to achieve just the right size. Tying them off is probably the hardest part – especially if you have cold fingers. It helps if you pinch the balloon near the opening while inflating. This leaves a short, uninflated section that is easier to tie into a knot. To pack up the Balloonbed, pop each balloon with the included brass safety pin, stow the used balloons so they can be packed out and discarded, and roll up the shell into the stuffsack.

Comfort

Comfort is certainly subjective, but I found the Balloonbed to be more comfortable than closed-cell pads such as the Gossamer Gear Nightlight and Therm-a-Rest Ridgerest pads, but less comfortable than a one inch thick self-inflating pad. Two issues affect comfort: First, when inflated to fit the shell, the balloons are much firmer than you’d imagine. Second, there is a space between each balloon that can be a bit uncomfortable depending on your position. I was more comfortable sleeping on my side than sleeping on my back. Of course, both size and firmness are dependent on how much you pump up the balloons.

Warmth

The Balloonbed is significantly warmer when used with a conventional mummy bag rather than a quilt. With a quilt, the space between balloons creates a channel that is susceptible to drafts. Conversely, this same space allows the insulation on the bottom of a mummy bag to loft between the balloons, providing additional warmth. Because the balloons themselves have no internal insulation, they are prone to convective currents and are not very effective insulators. However, the sandwich of the top and bottom shell layers plus the balloons creates a honeycomb of air cells to somewhat break up the convective currents. The end result is that the Balloonbed is warmer than you’d expect, especially when used with a bag containing bottom insulation – just don’t try it on snow.

Durability

The balloons are actually much more durable than you might think, but they do fail occasionally. I’ve seen three types of balloon failures. The most common is a burst during inflation or insertion into the shell, perhaps due to static electricity. The second is a "bump in the night" from a sharp object (yes, this does get everyone’s attention in camp). The final one is just a slow leak from either a pinhole defect or an improperly tied knot in a balloon that is discovered flat in the morning . If you are using the Balloonbed in a multi-night base camp, most of the balloons will generally stay inflated for several days.  A few seem to deflate much sooner – again, perhaps due to pinholes or bad knots.  Expect a few failures and bring a few extra balloons.

When used on the ground, the pump valve is prone to clogging with debris. I’ve always been able to shake it out without disassembling, but I worry about pump failure. If you have lungs of steel, maybe you could leave the pump at home and save half an ounce.

One nice consequence of the modular design with disposable balloons is that a puncture is not catastrophic. Small rips and tears in the shell won’t cause the pad to fail. Popped balloons are easily replaced.

Replacement balloons are available from the manufacturer. They are also available at novelty shops and various places online for around $6 per hundred. Balloonbed claims the size 260Q balloons made by Qualatex to be higher quality than the generic variety.

What’s Unique

The Balloonbed is the most compact sleeping pad commercially available. It’s also the lightest for its thickness, but that’s not what is most unique – come on, how many other pads are made out of balloons?

Recommendations for Improvement

• Devise a reusable air bladder
• Include a spare pump
• Stencil instructions for making balloon animals on the shell

Introduction

We all have to deal with making our drinking water safe during backcountry trips. Until recently, we could choose to filter, chemically treat, or boil our water to ensure with confidence that it was safe. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages, its adherents and detractors. At the 2005 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market, Meridian Technologies introduced the AquaStar UV Purifier. Meridian has since improved the product, releasing the AquaStar Plus at the 2005 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market. They have continued to make improvements to the product to become the robust ultraviolet light water purifier we review here. If you do not like the hassle of working with chemicals or a standard pump filter (to say nothing of toting the weight of the average pump filter), then perhaps the 3.9-ounce (110-grams), purifier only, AquaStar Plus deserves a closer look.

What’s Good

• Fast. Purifies 1 liter of water in 80 seconds.
• Built-in lantern provides ample light for in-camp use.
• Does not affect the taste of the water.

What’s Not So Good

• Uses non-rechargeable CR123 batteries.
• Does not screw completely tight to Nalgene Canteens which can result in minor leakage when canteens are upended.
• Severely affected by moderately cold air and water temperatures.

Specifications

Performance

AquaStar Plus operation could not be simpler. Fill your water bottle, screw the AquaStar Plus on tight, push and hold the button for a moment until the UV emitter activates, and that is all there is to it. If the water is turbid or you want to be extra careful, swirl the water around some during the 80 seconds the ultraviolet light is on. To limit the amount of detritus that enters your water when you fill your bottle, simply cover the bottle’s mouth with the provided no-see-um mesh prefilter to block larger particles and debris. Once a water treatment cycle is complete, a green light in the head of the purifier will flash for 10 seconds. Should a purification cycle terminate before the required 80 seconds have elapsed a red light will flash instead, indicating failure to complete.

The cleverly designed prefilter/strainer is a piece of fabric with a drawcord. To use, secure the pre-filter to the top of your water bottle, tighten the drawcord to ensure a snug fit, and then dip your bottle into the water source. The strainer acts like a coffee filter, straining out 200-micron and larger particles from the water. Not as fine as a paper filter, its purpose is nevertheless to remove the larger debris that could block the light from the UV emitter and float unpleasantly in your drinking water. I used the pre-filter in fairly cloudy source water and found it does a nice job of visually clearing the water.

Built into the AquaStar Plus’ solid plastic head is a lantern made of three white LEDs. The lantern is turned on by quickly clicking the power button twice. Once on, the light remains lit for 15 minutes, then shuts off automatically to preserve the batteries. According to the manufacturer, running the light for 30 minutes drains the batteries the equivalent of one complete treatment cycle. The lantern casts non-directional white light that is more than enough to do all manner of camp chores, or even read a book in your shelter. I found that leaving the bottle full of water improved the lantern’s functionality.

Changing the batteries is a simple task. The thumbscrews on top of the AquaStar Plus can be loosened while wearing gloves but be careful, it is easy to lose a screw. Fortunately the unit works just fine with one locking screw. In warm weather, the batteries power the unit as claimed. However, when the temperature drops the ultraviolet light refuses to run through a complete cycle. With the return of warmer ambient air and/or water temperatures, the unit works normally again.

Meridian Designs claim that the AquaStar Plus can purify 60 liters of water on a fresh set of CR123 batteries. I have found this claim to be about right under warm air and water conditions, but cooler temperatures degrade performance. A more reliable number seems to be about 50 liters per set of batteries. With some careful shopping, you can greatly reduce your cost per liter of operation, as CR123 prices vary wildly.

The AquaStar Plus ships with a polycarbonate 1-liter bottle that has directions and appropriate warnings printed on its side. The combined weight of these two components is 7.9 ounces. The unit can be used with wide-mouth Nalgene Canteens, saving several ounces. The only minor problem with this is that you need to exercise some care screwing the purifier on to the Nalgene Canteen, since the fit is not quite as secure as the standard cap. If you keep your water bottle upright, the worst you will likely see is a very slow accumulation of water around the threads. If I ever lost water during the course of a typical backpacking day, it was minimal.

Despite several weeks of use and several flights stowed in airline luggage, the AquaStar Plus has shown no signs of wear and tear. While I have no doubt that the AquaStar Plus is more vulnerable to failure than treatment chemicals, I have not taken any special care with it. The unit has ridden in an external pocket of my Gossamer Gear Mariposa on several trips and has fallen from out of that pocket onto the ground a few times (as the result of my own falls). I have no doubt that placing the AquaStar Plus inside the hard-sided confines of a polycarbonate bottle will improve overall durability, but the purifier has functioned well inside my Nalgene Canteens.

What’s Unique

The market for UV water treatment systems is still fairly new. The AquaStar Plus represents a well-thought out and implemented entry into this new arena of water treatment. In our fast-paced world of plug-and-play items, the AquaStar Plus provides almost instant gratification when it comes to treating water.

Recommendations for Improvement

Overall the AquaStar Plus is a well-designed product. It has some limitations but most are unavoidable, like the power requirements. This is not a knock against the AquaStar Plus, since all water treatment tools have limitations. One design change that would be nice to see is the use of captive screws for the battery cover.

Introduction

This pole has it all; carbon fiber, antishock joints, 3 collapsible sections, comfortable straps and many basket options. And it has a price tag – $179 – that reflects its top of the line features. Does this combination of top end features result in top end performance? I hiked over 800 miles with these poles this year to find out. Somebody’s got to do it. Ken Knight also completed a review of a similar pole, the Komperdell C3 Duolock, which lacks the antishock features of the Airshock but is otherwise identical.

What’s Good

• The only collapsible, antishock carbon fiber poles on the market
• Very comfortable grips and straps
• Antishock feature makes for soft, easy downhills
• Collapses down to a compact size (28 inches – 71 cm)

What’s Not So Good

• All those features add weight (6.8 ounces per pole compared to 6.1 for the non-Airshock Komperdell C3 Duolock Men)
• All those features are expensive ($179 per pair)

Specifications

Performance

Though heavier than many other carbon fiber poles at 6.8 ounces per pole, this pole includes the full complement of trekking pole features. I am a fan of antishock poles and I like the flexibility of collapsing poles, so I was anxious to see how these features would perform on a sub 7 ounce pole. I used the C3 Airshocks on my 600 mile PCT section hike this summer, and also on many of my spring training hikes. I took them on many rocky miles through the Arizona and California deserts, across hundreds of raging streams in the Sierras, and across dozens of slick snow and ice fields. I was used to hiking with aluminum poles and right away I loved the lightweight feel of these poles.

During the course of my PCT section hike I put a lot of stress on the carbon fiber on slippery descents and steep snowfields. On many occasions I rapidly put my full weight onto the poles to keep from falling on snow or ice. The poles saved me every time, even on one or two occasions when I was concerned that the stress might snap the carbon fiber. I found the carbon fiber stiff enough to transfer force well on steep uphill climbs.

You will have to fork out an extra $30 to purchase the C3 Airshock over the C3 Duolock. For that $30, you will get antishock technology, which will add 0.7 ounces to each pole. The antishock mechanism resides in the upper pole joint and uses Komperdell’s Airshock system which Komperdell states that the Airshock system provides variable resistance. As the air spring compresses, it becomes stiffer, giving a softer feel initially and a firmer spring as you approach the limits of its travel. The Airshock system also allows you to lock the spring and use the poles without the antishock feature- a simple turn on the upper shaft locks the spring mechanism for times when a fixed pole is needed. The total travel in the antishock system is approximately 0.67 inches (1.7 cm).

For me, the real payoff of antishock poles is on steep, rocky downhills, especially when I am moving quickly. In these conditions, the cushioning eases stress on my arms and legs, and allows me to move more quickly and with greater comfort. On uphill sections, when using the poles to help propel you up each step, it is sometimes worthwhile to lock each pole. Here stress is less of a factor and the efficiency of a locked pole may be preferred. I found that I did this only on long steep climbs. I recommend you try out both antishock and regular poles to decide for yourself. Borrow some from your friends, or visit a local outfitter where poles can frequently be rented.

The locking mechanism is easy to use and it reliably locked with enough strength to virtually eliminate slips, which can be annoying and even dangerous at the wrong moment. In about 50 days of hiking on these poles I had a few slips but when I got in the habit of tightening the mechanism more securely, I eliminated these completely.

I had no trouble tightening the locking mechanism, even when they were dirty or wet. I found them to be one of the more reliable mechanisms I have used (but in Ken Knight’s review of the C3 Duolock, he had some trouble tightening the mechanism in the wetter climate of Michigan).

Compatibility With Trekking Pole Shelters

When fully collapsed, the C3 Airshock Men measure only 28 inches (72 centimeters) long and extend to a full 55 inches (140 centimeters). This makes them easy to transport or attach to the outside of you pack and they will work with most any shelter that requires trekking poles. The C3 Airshock also comes in a Women’s version, with a slightly smaller grip and shorter length (25 to 49 inches – 64 to 125 cm). The Women version is also a little lighter at 6.5 ounces. For many hikers, male or female, the shorter pole is long enough – same price though.

The grips are molded EVA foam. They are comfortable in hot or cold weather and stood up well to being used as a tent pole. The grips on my poles still look brand new. The strap is adjustable and is over 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide at its widest point. These straps are very supportive and comfortable, although they don’t breathe well, so they can get uncomfortable in hot weather. A lighter strap could probably do the job nearly as well.

The summer basket that comes with the C3 poles is wider than most other trekking pole baskets (2.25 inches diameter – 5.7 cm). At first, I didn’t like these baskets, feeling it was wasted extra weight. However, after a summer of hiking I’ve grown to like them- a wider basket is ideal in the muddy and snowy conditions I encountered for much of the summer. I found that I was driving my poles through the snow less frequently than other hikers, saving me untold precious calories while crossing slick snowfields. Of course, on a dry firm surface, these larger baskets would have little benefit over a smaller and lighter basket.

After so much use and stress, I was pleased with the overall durability and quality of these poles. The combination of useful features, light weight and reliable performance makes them a great choice – especially on a long hike in diverse conditions. I used them every night to hold up my Tarptent. I fell and slipped on them and used them to jump across an endless procession of scary, icy streams. And they look as good now as they day I received them. But you better be comfortable with the $179 price tag.

What’s Unique

The combination of carbon fiber, 3 collapsible sections, and antishock technology

Recommendations for Improvement

Although the straps are comfortable, a lighter and simpler strap could save a few grams and be just as functional. And getting rid of the bright logo on the strap wouldn’t hurt either.

Introduction

Titanium Goat’s Take Down Goat poles have the simplicity of a fixed-length design, with one useful extra feature; the ability to break the poles down into two pieces for easy storage or transport. The strong shafts and four ounce weight are attractive parameters, but the grip design suffers from an easily corrected flaw. With one simple improvement, these poles will take their place among the leading ultralight poles. Will Reitveld completed a review of the standard Titanium Goat Poles (without the take down feature), so take a look at his review to get the perspective of another reviewer.

What’s Good

• Light – 4.0 ounces per pole, well below manufacturer’s spec of 4.7 ounces
• Take down feature is convenient for transport and travel
• 14 mm carbon fiber shaft is stiff and durable

What’s Not So Good

• Take down joint components require careful and proper use
• Grips slipped down shaft under certain conditions

Specifications

Performance

These poles have a nice combination of light weight and strong, stiff carbon fiber shafts. My test poles were the longest length offered by Titanium Goat- 135 cm. Yet they weighed only 4.0 ounces, well below the specified weight of 4.7 ounces for 120 cm poles. These were the lightest poles I have ever used, and I immediately found their diminutive mass very liberating. It is a very different experience to hike with these poles when compared to aluminum poles weighing closer to 10 ounces per pole. I found the light weight was particularly useful in off-trail hiking where placing your poles uses more energy than on a well-graded trail.

Compatibility With Trekking Pole Shelters

The unique feature of the Take Down Goat poles is the take down joint. Simply loosening the joint by partially unscrewing it allows you split your poles in half. This is a very useful feature, especially if you need to travel with these poles in an airplane, or fit into small cars with your hiking buddies and their packs. On a long hike where you will be hitchhiking into town occasionally, the split pole sections are much easier to fit into the cars of the kind souls who will transport you to the nearest pizza joint. For those that don’t use poles all day but still want an ultralight carbon pole, there is no other pole that offers this feature. I found the joint to be strong and did not notice any looseness or play in the joint while hiking.

The joint consists of an aluminum shaft that is attached to the lower section and extends 1.5 inches (42 cm) into the upper section when the two sections are joined. A threaded nylon post extends 0.5 inches out of the aluminum shaft. An aluminum ferrule and rubber fitting screw onto this post and form the locking mechanism for the take down joint. This simple joint works well once you practice with it a little but isn’t the most simple to use initially. It is important to adjust the fit so that the fitting slides into the upper pole with some force required: too loose and the fitting will not tighten, too tight and the fitting will not slide into the upper half of the pole. On some occasions I had problems getting the joint to lock, even after several attempts at adjusting the fitting. This could usually be resolved by cleaning the rubber fitting and ferrule, thereby improving its ability to lock within the upper shaft. I also had problems with the ferrule becoming completely unscrewed and remaining in the upper portion of the shaft. This may have been due to incorrect use on my part, but was still worrisome. With practice I was able to get all these problems resolved and had no further problems with the system. I recommend you read the notes from Titanium Goat carefully, and practice using the take down joint before heading out into the field. Regular cleaning was also critical in keeping this simple mechanism performing consistently.

The carbon fiber shafts on these poles are stiff and strong, which makes them a delight to use and reduces some of the worry about cracking or breaking the shaft. I stressed the shafts by hiking rapidly downhill on rocky cross country terrain where the poles would sometimes get caught in cracks or get banged up against boulders. No problem though, the shafts hold my weight (170 pounds) with almost no flexing, and despite numerous stressful slips or extractions from rocks, the shafts have held up well.

The Black Diamond baskets that come with the poles are notably smaller than on most other poles. They are light, but you should consider a higher diameter basket if you will be hiking in snow or sand. The baskets stayed in place on my poles throughout testing. I had no problems with baskets slipping or falling off the poles (as did Will Reitveld in his review). The baskets are very easily removed by hand, so it is certainly possible to have them slide off under the right circumstances. Will also noted that the tips of these poles are more rounded than from some other manufacturer’s and were more likely to slip off hard surfaces but in my testing, I did not notice the tips sliding off rock surfaces more often than other poles (perhaps this is just a difference in how the poles are weighted and used or trail conditions). However, the tips on the Titanium Goat poles are smoother than those from some other pole manufacturers, so this could be an issue for some users.

The biggest problem I had with these poles was that the grips slid down the shaft in heavy use. This did not happen until I used the poles on steep descents where I put a lot of consistent downward pressure on the grips. Although the grips can be easily adjusted back to their original position, this is a flaw that should be fixed by either gluing the grips in place, or better yet, modifying the grip design to include a cap.

What’s Unique

Very light, 4 ounce carbon fiber poles with the convenience of a take down joint for easier transportation.

Recommendations for Improvement

These are stiff and lightweight poles that offer a take down feature that is not available from any other manufacturer. While I recommend these poles, I do offer the following suggestions for improvement:

• The grips need to be kept in place with adhesive, or with a redesigned grip that includes a foam cap.
• While the take down locking system works fine with practice, redesigning it to be less finicky and easier to use would be a big improvement.

Introduction

Leki joins the carbon trekking pole club with the three-section Carbon Ergometric. Featuring angled foam grips, padded and adjustable straps and interchangeable baskets, the Carbons take up less than 25 inches for stowage and weigh a scant 6.2 ounces each.

What’s Good

• Excellent build quality
• Light weight for a three-section pole – 6.2 ounces each
• Comfortable grips and straps
• Dependable joint locks don’t slip on the go
• High load-bearing capacity
• Effective vibration damping
• Collapse to a short 24 inch (61.5 cm) length

What’s Not So Good

• Stubborn length adjustment
• Straps can’t be removed without cutting them off
• At $199.95, they’re quite expensive

Specifications

Performance

The Leki Carbon Ergometric poles are light and strong. Trekking poles have come a long way in recent years, and the introduction of carbon fiber shafts dropped pole weight significantly below what’s possible using even the lightest aluminum alloys. In addition, carbon poles are stiffer and offer better vibration damping for greater comfort on the trail. At just over 6 ounces each (without baskets), the Leki Carbons are among the lightest of three-section poles. The grips are EVA foam with rigid plastic tops. They are molded to give them an angled shape that provides a more natural motion on the trail. The effective angle is less than the older Leki poles with bent shafts at the grip, but is still noticeable in use.

The webbing straps are faced inside with absorbent cloth. They’re comfortable but do accumulate some sweat and rain. They also rub off sunscreen, resulting in some odd tan/burn/white patterns on the back of the hand. Strap length is adjustable, and can be locked using tensioning screws atop the grips. The straps are not designed to be removed so anybody wanting to save their weight will have to cut them off, making it a full-on commitment.

Shaft length adjusts using Leki’s newest SLS system. They lock quickly and if tightened adequately don’t slip in the field; this plays an important role in building confidence for using the poles in dicey situations. The test Leki poles don’t adjust in length easily, requiring some muscle to get to the desired position (this is a pneumatic issue rather than a friction one, as trapped air in the sections takes awhile to escape, rather like a tire pump). The bottom and middle sections have numbered gradations (in centimeters) to ease the task of matching pole lengths or recalling preferred uphill, downhill and level-ground lengths.

The Leki Carbon Ergometric poles collapse quite small – a quarter-inch over two feet to be exact – making them easy to stow on or even in a backpack. In case you might not think of this as a big deal, my older Leki Makalu three-section poles are a whopping half-foot longer when completely collapsed, meaning they jut well above my backpack when stowed there for bushwhacking. Little things can make a big difference.

Leki provides the carbon poles with their small-diameter trekking baskets that are threaded and easily removable (but won’t come off unexpectedly). I normally leave them on but also swap them for snow baskets when walking in the white stuff. Pole ends are plastic with concave-face carbide tips. The tips grip well on smooth surfaces like granite and glare ice. Leki designs the plastic tips to first flex, then break before the pole itself is damaged; but in using three different pairs of Leki poles I’ve not broken one, so I can’t verify that premise. They’re friction-fit and user-replaceable if you’re very strong and have a bench vice. (Editor’s note: I can verify that they do break-away if over-stressed as claimed and replacements are inexpensive and easy to replace – a good, solid design. DJ)

I typically use poles for half to three-quarters of my hiking day. I generally set and forget the length and the Carbon Ergometric system rarely slips, usually holding the setting all day. There are few things more disconcerting than having a pole slide closed when I’m placing a good deal of my weight on it, so I appreciate these adjusters’ tenacity.

The light weight truly makes a difference in ease of arm movement and surprisingly, pole placement. I find it a bit easier to plant the lighter pole where I want it when I’m handling a tricky path or in the midst of stumbling. Another lightweight pole benefit is that I’m able to walk with both poles in one hand and my GPS in the other (a maneuver not as easy with heavy poles).

Doubling as a shelter pole, I found the Leki Carbon Ergometric poles well suited to the task of supporting my GoLite Hex 2. I join them using a Black Diamond Pole Link converter, which connects them in an overlapping fashion at the grip ends and makes a strong and rigid assembly that fends off brisk winds. Used singly as tarp poles presents no problems whatsoever.

The Leki Carbon poles are stiff and rigid; I’ve never used a better three-section pole. I can confidently plant my body-plus-pack weight on a single pole, or hop over obstacles supported by the pair without excess flexing or joint-slippage. As a strength and bend test, I can place most of my weight on a single pole while wearing a backpack – a combined load of roughly 200 pounds (length was set to 120 cm). Under this weight, the poles bow only slightly and there’s no hint of impending failure and no joint slippage (presuming I’ve tightened them well).

The Carbon Ergometric poles have a resonance I can see and feel, but the carbon shafts and EVA foam grips dampen it well and it’s neither distracting nor fatigue inducing on the trail. The poles are quiet on the trail and easy on the hands, differing notably from many aluminum poles in this regard. I never once wished for a shock-absorber system (acknowledging that shock-absorption and vibration-damping are two different things).

The test pair didn’t suffer more than minor cosmetic damage (some surface dings and scratches) and did endure the occasional direct blow to the shaft that could well have dented aluminum poles. (As with carbon bicycle frames, the user is well advised to inspect the poles occasionally for shaft damage that might lead to catastrophic failure.) Leki offers a lifetime warranty against shaft breakage, so your investment is covered if breakage should occur.

The carbide-and-plastic flex tips and the small trekking baskets are the same ones Leki has used for years, and have proven to wear well. The Leki straps show no wear, nor do the grips. The hard plastic grip caps keep the EVA foam from being chewed up on rocks.

The downside of the Carbon Ergometric poles is their price; at almost $200 these are among the most expensive trekking poles made. By comparison, the Komperdell C3 offers similar performance for $50 less. The high price’s sting will lessen considerably if they serve well for several seasons; however, Leki only offers a one year warranty on their carbon fiber trekking poles.

Measuring Progress – The Carbon Ergometric vs. the Makalu Ti COR-TEC PA/AS

I did a side-by-side comparison of the Leki Carbons to my five-year-old aluminum Leki Titanium-series COR-TEC PA/AS poles. The two models are set apart by some key differences besides the shaft material, such as antishock and grips but the differences between them are quite interesting. (Note: despite the name, the Titanium-series poles are aluminum that’s alloyed with some titanium.)

I might once have offered a shrug at the approximately 3-ounce per pole difference, but have since had my eyes opened to what a difference it makes on the trail. It’s perhaps more telling to think of the metal poles as being about fifty-percent heavier. The carbon poles are also distinctly stiffer, bending much less than the aluminum poles when stressed side by side. This was frankly, a surprise. The carbon poles also dampen vibration much better than the aluminum model, and the amplitude of their vibration is less. My conclusion is that the Carbon Ergometric’s lighter weight is coupled with increased performance. While I don’t miss the shock absorption system of my older poles, I still enjoy the COR-TEC grips and greater grip angle.

Navigation

I can report that the Leki Carbons float, and that they head downstream grip-end first. I know this because I disrupted my test by knocking one into a snowmelt-fattened Sierra stream, losing sight of it in half a minute despite racing in pursuit. Several hours following the bank downstream never turned it up, leaving me with a single pole and hope that sometime this summer, a fisherman will find the best wading staff ever. Luckily, Leki’s excellent and understanding customer service folks took pity on me after my gear-testing blunder and sent me a new pole, so I was able to complete my field trials. It’s actually helpful to know these poles float, because in better circumstances they’d be retrievable from the water.

In the period I had only one Leki Carbon I tested it in mixed pairs with other poles. This was instructive in revealing differences, both obvious and subtle. The Carbon’s stiffness and vibration damping were unmatched in my comparisons.

What’s Unique

Ergometric angled grips, dependable shaft length adjusters, lockable strap length…and they float!

Recommendations for Improvement

Despite being an excellent product overall, I would suggest the following improvements for the Carbon Ergometric poles:

• Make straps non-destructively removable for those who use straps only occasionally.
• Provide an adjustment key for strap lock screws.
• Reduce the price to make it more competitive.