Articles (2020)

Marmot Atom Sleeping Bag SPOTLITE REVIEW

20 ounces in size long, Pertex Quantum shell, over 4 inches of loft

Overview

At a specified weight of 16 ounces for the regular length (20 ounces for the long length), the Marmot Atom sleeping bag is the lightest bag in Marmot’s lineup. The Atom features Marmot’s 850 plus fill power down and a Pertex Quantum shell. Marmot rates the Atom as a 40 degree F bag and lists a total loft of 4 inches. The Atom uses sewn through construction and features continuous tubes that wrap around from the bottom to the top of the bag. The Atom has a half zipper and a draft tube.

We recently acquired a long length Atom for testing. This bag weighs in at 22.4 ounces, 2.4 ounces above the manufacturer’s specified weight. Measured loft on this bag averages 4.1 inches and was measured at shoulders, hips and near the foot box. The included stuff sack adds another 1.3 ounces. The bags stuffs down to an impressively small volume; about the size of a large cantaloupe.

At nearly 6 feet 5 inches, I am a good person to test the length on a long bag. The Atom is plenty roomy for me, both in girth and length. I can easily cinch up the hood while still leaving pleny of room for my feet in the footbox.

I am anxious to get the Atom out into the field and compare its warmth, comfort and wet weather perfomance to some of its closest competition. Will the sewn through construction make it difficult to stay comfortable as the temperatures approach freezing? How will the Pertex Quantum shell perform in diverse conditions? Will the half zipper be a handicap when using the bag in warm weather?

Features and Specifications

  • 850 plus fill power down
  • 22.4 ounces for long length (20 ounces manufacurer’s spec weight, 16 ounce spec weight for regular)
  • Measured loft averages 4.1 inches (manufacturer’s spec 4 inches)
  • Pertex Quantum N-090 taffeta shell
  • Half length zipper
  • Draft tube
  • Fully closable mummy hood
  • Manufacturer’s temperature rating of 40 degrees F
  • MSRP $249 regular length, $269 long length

Notes from the Field: Summer on the Pacific Crest Trail

Long distance hikes have a unique character. BPL editor, Don Wilson, shares his perspectives on gear, technique, clothing and philosophy following a lightweight, 6-week section hike of the PCT.

Introduction

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Camp in the desert beneath a Joshua Tree, wearing a Patagonia Micropuff vest for warmth. Desert days were hot, but nights were cold and usually windy.

In 2005, I temporarily abandoned my Backpacking Light editor duties to hike for a month on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), starting at the Mexican border and finishing at the northern end of the Mojave desert. I had a grand time and cemented my addiction to long distance hiking, which I will define here as staying on the trail for a month or more at a time. The daily character of a long hike is fundamentally different from a hike of a week or even two weeks in duration. The beginning and end of a long hike are far enough apart that they don’t interfere with each other. For most of a long hike I am simply living on the trail, with little or no thought to the beginning or the end. The days are relaxed and the regular process of hiking and living outside become routine. I’ve got all the time in the world, and my daily cares are simple: walk, eat, rest, see, think. That state of mind – which I’ve not been able to approach on shorter hikes – is exactly what makes long hikes so enticing to me, and is why I plan to keep taking long hikes for years to come.

This past summer I continued my section hike of the PCT by adding on 6 weeks of north-bound hiking. My PCT hikes have not been exceptional by any standard; I have not hiked the entire trail (yet), I have not shattered any speed records, I have not explored huge tracts of wilderness. I resupplied every 4 to 6 days and followed a pattern that is fairly typical of long distance hikers on the popular trails in the US. I am 46, with a job and a wife and teenage kids. And while these hikes are squarely in the normal category for long hikes, they are not normal to me. They have been filled with challenges stemming from my job and family, feet, health, heat, water, snow and regular assaults on my psyche. To me, they are far more challenging than shorter hikes, but also far more rewarding.

Overcoming the obstacles to doing these hikes has paid dividends that are just not available in my everyday life; to see the sunrise every morning for weeks at a time, to watch the complete cycle of the moon from beneath the clear California night sky, and to share a meal with fellow travelers randomly met along the trail. It cheers me to know that many beautiful long trails are out there, just waiting to be explored. And each offers an opportunity to savor the special rhythms of long distance hiking. 

In this article, I comment on strategies and gear choices and share a bit of flavor from the trail. Perhaps I’ll see you during my next long hike.

The Desert

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Lunchtime in the middle of the hottest day of my hike. There was no shade to hide in, so I hiked all day to reach the next water source. Note the long, loose clothing (Mountain Hardwear Shirt and Canyon Pants, Outdoor Research Sun Runner hat) and the Coolibar fingerless gloves. They gave me excellent protection from the sun in the blue skies of southern California.

I started this year’s walk in Mojave, California. One hundred fifty miles of desert lay ahead before I would enter the mountains of the Sierra Nevada. Being a desert rat from Tucson, Arizona and experienced desert hiker, I don’t dread the hot desert hiking as much as many other hikers, but it still requires special care. I carried almost 7 liters of water capacity – but could have done with less. Most days had 20 to 30 mile stretches between water sources, sometimes supplemented by unreliable water caches. I am not an extremely fast hiker, but I easily hiked this section in five and a half days, averaging about 27 miles a day. The climbs are moderate, the trail is smooth and the days are long. It becomes surprisingly easy to cover long distances if one is disciplined in their hiking strategy. For me, taking full advantage of the long days is one of the biggest differences in the daily patterns of long and short hikes. On my typical day I was up at 5 am, on the trail before 6, and hiking until about 7 pm. In between I took plenty of rests, sometimes for hours at a time. In the desert I matched my cycle to the heat of the day and targeted my rests and campsites for water sources whenever possible. I tanked up at water sources, then moved quickly to the next one. It was blazing hot in the heat of the day, so a siesta was sometimes in order. The best part of the desert – spectacular night skies. My only real problem in the desert this year was a nasty blister on my left heel. I had not developed such a bad blister in years, and I was not prepared to dress it properly. Duct tape was not enough. But I managed to keep it clean and after a week of pain and suffering I was on the road to recovery.

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My heel after day three. Only a fellow hiker can sympathize with how it feels to walk on a blister like this after each rest stop. It healed quickly with the use of Second Skin.

One hundred miles into the desert I came to Walker Pass, where the trail crosses a road and a small campground lies just off the trail. It was a very hot day and several other hikers I had met were hoping to spend the heat of the day resting at the campground. When I arrived at the pass there was a note taped to a sign. It said “cold beer” and had an arrow pointing towards a small motor home in the campground. I strolled over and found a paradise for weary desert travelers. Several hikers were sprawled about in various stages of recovery from the sun. Under the shade of a rare tree was a picnic table. Nearby was another table with books and wine bottles strewn about. Two coolers were filled with cold sodas, beer and fruit. On the tables there were chips and salsa and Fig Newtons. The food was provided by the other hikers and the generous woman who lived in the motor home. The pain in my heel quickly melted away. I consumed five cans of Sprite during my 3-hour rest, along with a beer or two. I met several new hikers and we shared exaggerated and outrageous stories of the desert crossing. Some will criticize this aspect of the PCT – the help given to hikers via guidebooks, water caches and trail angels. And any hiker is free to skip or ignore these conveniences, or to hike on trails without these established traditions. But for the vast majority of hikers the social gatherings and occasional surprises are a highlight of hiking the PCT – myself included. Completely refreshed, I hiked alone out of the campground about 5 pm and slept on a ridge among scattered juniper trees. A day and a half later I walked into Kennedy Meadows, the end of the desert section. After only 6 days on the trail I was more than ready to leave the heat behind and get up into the high, snowy Sierras.

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Fellow hikers – Paparazzi, Buttercup and Smoky resting and eating at Walker Pass. Note the light colored, loose clothing.

The Mountains

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PCT legend Billy Goat (right) helps to pour drinks at the memorial ceremony for No Way Ray. A few days later Billy Goat left the trail for a couple of weeks to attend his 50th high school reunion!

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The PCT quickly climbs into the cool Sierras upon leaving Kennedy Meadows.

Arriving at Kennedy Meadows is a milestone on any PCT hike. The trail has entered sagebrush-studded flats by this time. Immediately upon leaving Kennedy Meadows the trail climbs into the mountains, and in less than a day you are walking through alpine forests and lush meadows in the Sierra Nevada. Snow covered peaks loom ahead, just a day or two away.

Can you picture 668 inches of snow? Here’s a hint – that’s over 55 feet. That is how much snow dumped on Mammoth Mountain ski area in the winter of 2005-2006. In nearly 40 years of record keeping at Mammoth Mountain, that is the all time record. Almost 10 feet of snow fell after April 1st. Mammoth lies only a couple of miles off the PCT, right in the middle of the Sierras, and is an indicator of the challenge that faced hikers as they traversed the Sierras this season. At Kennedy Meadows the remaining snowpack was the hot topic of conversation. Cell phones have made it easy for hikers to call back to their friends and give them trail updates. On a sign at the Kennedy Meadows store was an update from Scott Williamson. He had just passed through the central Sierras and was about a week ahead of me. He reported very dangerous rivers and the most snow he had ever seen. Scott has hiked the PCT nine times and in 2004 was the first to yo-yo the PCT in a single season (hiking from Mexico to Canada and back to Mexico). Scott reported that he spent 4 hours looking for a safe crossing of Bear Creek, one of the most notorious river crossings in the Sierras. Scott’s report caused quite a stir among the hikers at Kennedy Meadows. Many hikers were opting to leave the trail, or planning to skip far ahead to avoid the high snows in the Sierras. Others were carrying snowshoes, crampons and even skis. I decided to hook up with other hikers and continue ahead, carrying a Cassin Ghost ice axe as my only snow specific gear.

I happened to be at Kennedy Meadows while a memorial service was being held for a PCT hiker who had died on the trail a month earlier. The hiker was No Way Ray (Ray Echols). Ray had apparently collapsed and slid off a steep section of trail while hiking near Big Bear, several hundred miles to the south. I had not met Ray, but he was well known among PCT hikers and had been on the trail for several years in succession. I did know something of his spirit from his many internet postings on various PCT mailing lists. I had a chance to meet his remarkable wife Alice and to participate in the moving ceremony. At least a hundred people were in attendance, and many hikers had delayed their hikes to attend the memorial. Memories of Ray were shared and we all downed a shot of scotch – Ray’s favorite. Alice asked us all to hoot for Ray when we reached Forrester Pass, the high point of the PCT. It was a solemn event, but I think it reminded most of us how lucky we were to be out on the trail and enjoying life on the PCT.

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PCT hiker Sleeping Beauty carries all the essentials as he enters the Sierras – olive oil, Pringles, tortilla chips, Advil (below the olive oil) and crampons. Sleeping Beauty dispensed with a stove and his diet consisted of large quantities of chips and olive oil. As you might surmise from his trail name, he tended to sleep in late.

Within two days of entering the Sierras the trail begins a regular rhythm of crossing high passes at 11,000 to 13,000 feet, then descending into lush valleys filled with cold, rushing rivers before climbing up to another pass. This pattern continues for about 400 miles, at one point going over 230 miles without crossing a road. I made a couple of gear changes in Kennedy Meadows; I switched from the Bozeman Mountain Works Stealth 1 PRO tarp to a Tarptent Squall to give me better protection from mosquitoes and I added an Ursack Hybrid to meet the bear canister regulations. I walked with other hikers for several days in the early part of the Sierras, the first time I had intentionally hiked with a group. 

A few days into the Sierras the trail climbs over Forrester Pass, at 13,200 feet, the highest point on the PCT. It was a cold and icy morning when we climbed toward the pass. Several of us were scattered along the approach when fellow hiker John hit a patch of blue ice on perfectly flat terrain and spun around for several seconds, legs flying, arms spinning, doing a least two revolutions before he regained control without falling. Spontaneous applause ensued. The trail was buried beneath the snow for a couple of miles before we got to the pass. The snow was hard packed and icy as we began the final, steep climb, and I was glad to have my ice ax. I was also pleased to be above tree line in the sparse and clean high mountain environment. We were soon on top and celebrating, offering a series of whoops for No Way Ray. From the summit, we could see that the way down the north side was filled with snow as far as we could see. No part of the trail was visible for at least two miles. Tracks of other hikers led down the slope for a while, but soon dispersed. We slid and laughed our way down the snow and eventually found the trail as it began to peak out of the snow now and again.

This pattern of climbs, snow and valleys continued for the remainder of my hike. One of the more exciting days was the climb over Muir Pass. This pass collects more snow than any other locale on the trail. By this point I was hiking and camping alone, seeing only a handful of people each day. Muir Pass is 11,955 feet high and I hit my first snow at 9600 feet, still 4 miles from the pass. Portions of the trail weave though a complex series of small canyons, and this quickly became the most challenging navigation of the hike. The trail was completely buried and footprints melted so fast that they were nowhere to be found. The scariest parts of the climb were the mandatory crossings of several snow bridges. Roaring water could be heard below as I tiptoed my way across the snow, arms spread wide. Upon reaching the top of the pass I was greeted by another snow filled valley, with all its lakes still frozen over. I found it all rather bizarre, as this was in mid-July, with mostly sunny weather and very warm days. Working my way down the pass in the heat of the afternoon was exhausting; slipping and sliding and punching through the snow on many occasions. It took me several more hours to reach solid ground. I was pleased to reach the green valley below where I collapsed into a sleep that not even a pizza could disturb.

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The author (left) with fellow hikers Dave and Becky on top of 13, 200 foot Forrester Pass, the highest point on the PCT. We paused for this photo and gave a hoot for No Way Ray as requested by his widow. From our clothing, you can see that my lightweight approach to mountain hiking varied from Dave and Becky’s more traditional approach. I continued in desert hiking clothing – including ankle height socks from Injinji and Montrail Continental Divide shoes – and supplemented with the Patagonia Micropuff vest for cooler hiking conditions.

For several more weeks I continued north, nearly always alone, seeing other hikers mostly in resupply towns. I crossed hundreds of cold streams, including the dreaded Bear Creek. Arriving at Bear Creek several days after climbing Muir Pass, I decided to cross directly at the trail. It looked horrifying, but I searched upstream and then downstream and couldn’t find a better location. I waded in and was fine until mid-stream. The thigh deep water was raging and splashing over large boulders. I had a few moments of sheer terror as I nearly fell while navigating around a large boulder. But I recovered and reached the other side with a numb lower body and a smile on my face. The Sierras are so consistently beautiful that is easy to become nonchalant among the ridges, cascades and high altitude meadows. But as the end of my hike neared and the reunion with my family grew closer, I savored every day even as I looked forward to better food, a soft bed and a warm hug. I’ll be back to finish the trail to Canada. But in the meantime I am content to know that out there on the horizon the rest of the trail awaits, alluring and quiet and always headed north.

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Climbing up and over Muir Pass was one of the more challenging days on my hike.

The view north from the top of Muir Pass in mid-July 2006. The frozen lakes in the top center of the photo are 2 miles away. The trail was buried in snow for about 4 miles on the north side of Muir Pass.

Long Distance Hiking Notes

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Caught by a cold storm at high altitude in the northern Sierra, I raced down into the valley after being pelted by cold rain and hail.

How does a month-long, or longer, hike differ from a short hike? There are many good sources for answers to this question in books and in cyberspace. Here are a few less obvious observations based on my experience.

  1. Your gear list is not fixed. On a long hike with somewhat regular access to civilization you can and will change your gear list as you go. This can happen at outfitters in towns, or via mail drops. So don’t be afraid to experiment and don’t obsess over gear choices too much. The longer your hike, the more this is true. For a complete thru-hike of several months, many people use a long list of different gear options as conditions change and experience develops.
  2. One thing you should obsess over is your feet and your shoes. The vast majority of hikers will at some point struggle with pain, blisters, stress fractures or other maladies of the feet. Many people will battle with their feet for weeks or months, and it can be very discouraging. Learn all you can about foot care before your hike and be diligent about dealing with problems right away. Rest when you need it, especially early in a long hike. There will be a few mutants on the trail with no foot problems. Treat them with scorn. Foot care and health is the second most common topic of conversation on the trail. (The most common topic, by far, is food.)
  3. It is important to stay in contact with your family and friends, but some of the modern communication options will add to your pack weight and can take up a lot of your time. This includes Pocketmail, web sites, journals, cell phones, satellite phones, digital camera memory, battery chargers, etc. Think carefully about this and do what is best for your hiking experience. I found that a simple pen and paper journal, not published or emailed, was more enjoyable and in tune with my goals. Don’t let your hike become entertainment for others. Many people come to dread the dozens of obligatory emails, or feel like the public face of the hike becomes too important and detracts from the experience. Stay in touch, but make the experience what is best for you.
  4. Be prepared for repairs. On a short hike, a piece of gear may occasionally break, but on a long hike things will wear out. Be ready to sew, tape, pad and improvise to keep things working. Learn a little bit about sewing by hand. Bring plenty of duct tape. Just as with your feet, deal with gear related problems and repairs as soon as possible, before they develop into larger problems.

Gear Notes

Overall

Although the PCT is well known for spawning much innovation in lightweight hiking, I was once again surprised at the heavy packs carried by most PCT hikers. Typical base pack weights were 18-20 pounds, with quite a few hikers carrying much heavier packs. I am not a SuperUltraLight hiker like other Backpacking Light staffers, but I was very comfortable with the gear I carried and still my base pack weight was less than 11 pounds for the desert section of the hike and less than 13 pounds for the mountains. I think many PCT hikers would significantly improve their comfort and ability to hike high mileage days with a handful of lighter gear choices.

Shelter

I carried a Bozeman Mountain Works Stealth 1 PRO tarp in the desert, along with a Tyvek groundsheet. But the skies were clear and I never set up my tarp in 2005 or 2006. In the Sierras I switched to a Tarptent Squall, mainly for improved bug protection. July in the Sierras, especially in a heavy snow year, can produce mind-numbing quantities of mosquitoes. My Squall is a 2003 model and is still in good condition. Total shelter weight: 17 ounces with the BMW tarp or 25 ounces with the Tarptent.

Sleeping System

This year I carried a Western Mountaineering Summerlite. The Summerlite is a new product and is the lightest, fully baffled mummy bag offered by Western Mountaineering. My bag is a long length, and weighs in at 21 ounces (nearly 22 oz with stuff sack). The regular length bag, made for people up to 6 feet tall, is 2 ounces lighter. The Summerlite is rated to 32 degrees, but can go well below freezing with some extra clothing. On a few cold nights I wore my vest or jacket in the bag and was never cold. I estimate that my coldest nights were just below freezing, perhaps 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The Summerlite features 0.9 oz/yd2 extremelite fabric and a full-length zipper. There is no collar, but a reasonable hood with a pull closure. Western Mountaineering gives it a stated loft of 4 inches, which is a bit conservative. I was very pleased with this bag. It is 9 ounces lighter than the bag I used in 2005, but was still plenty warm even at high altitudes. It held up well and the zipper performed reliably. The Summerlite is the perfect three-season bag for me. Expect a full review of the Summerlite in the next few months.

The luxury item for my trek was an extra sleeping pad. I carried a three-quarter length Cascade Designs Z-Rest pad, along with a Bozeman Mountain Works TorsoLite inflatable pad. I could have saved 10 ounces by carrying a single pad, but my hips and back were much happier this way.

Pack

I carried a Six Moon Designs Starlite in both 2005 and 2006. This is a functional, high capacity pack designed for long distance hiking. It has a zippered pocket that fits a Z-rest pad to provide frame-like support. I found this pack very comfortable, even when carrying loads over 30 pounds. The Starlite has a large side pocket that will fit most ultralight tents and two other large mesh pockets. I had trouble with the shoulder straps in 2005. They began to show signs of stress at the joint between the upper part of the strap and the pack. Ron Moak, the proprietor of Six Moon Designs, replaced my straps and pack in 2006 and I had no further troubles. I could carry 8 or 9 days worth of food in the Starlite, along with all of my other gear without too much difficulty. Still, I worried about this pack’s durability. I treated it carefully, being careful not too drop it or swing it around too much when it was fully loaded. I would consider a different pack choice in future long distance hikes. Total weight for my pack is 23 ounces. Six Moon Designs has recently released an updated version that has an extra pocket, new hip belt pockets and an updated design for the pad pocket.

Cook Kit

Most PCT hikers use an alcohol stove, and I did as well. Alcohol fuel is the easiest to get in PCT trail towns, and many suppliers carry it specifically for hikers. Using an alcohol stove eliminates the need to ship yourself fuel canisters and generally simplifies resupply when in towns. The rest of my kit consisted of an Evernew 1.5 liter pot, titanium foil windscreen, Lexan spoon and a homemade pot stand. My kit works fine for simple meals that require boiling water, but is not effective for any cooking options requiring flame control. A slightly heavier stove would give you more control and more cooking options. Total weight was 8 ounces.

Shoes

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Montrail Continental Divides. This pair had approximately 600 miles on them at the time the photo was taken. I found the sole had reasonable traction for snow hiking. Mine were soaking wet almost every day and dried very rapidly. Quick drying, breathable shoes are a must on the PCT.

Last year I used Montrail Hardrocks, and this year I switched to Montrail Continental Divides. The Continental Divides are more breathable and have a wider toe box than the Hardrocks. Highly breathable shoes are important all along the PCT to keep your feet as dry as possible. In the desert you should dry out your feet at every rest stop, and you should clean them at every water source. You will be amazed at how dirty your feet will get in dusty conditions with breathable shoes. Clean and dry your feet at every opportunity in the desert. In the mountains most hikers will wear their shoes at many stream crossings each day, so rapid drying becomes even more critical. Some hikers wore gaiters in the mountains, but I chose to stick with my same sock/shoe combo as in the desert. I did get plenty of snow in my shoes, but my feet were soaked anyway, so it didn’t bother me. I dried my feet and shoes completely at night, but got used to having wet feet all day, every day. In a drier year, this wouldn’t be such a problem. I did develop a bad blister this year, which is rare for me. I think I may have had my shoes laced too loosely early in the trip, giving my heel a little too much wiggle room. The durability and quality of all Montrail shoes I have used has been excellent.

Socks

Socks are an important part of foot health, and are the subject of much discussion among long distance hikers. My standard sock has been lightweight New Balance running socks, but this year I experimented with Injinji Tetrasoks. The Tetrasoks I used were the Performance series, which are 70% Coolmax (a proprietary polyester), 25% Lycra and 5% spandex. Tetrasoks are a toe sock, with individual compartments for each toe. I was suspicious of these as a gimmick item, but they have found popularity among long distance runners, so I decided to give them a try. Many other PCT hikers were using these socks this year, while I saw no one with them in 2005. The biggest complaint with the Tetrasoks was lack of durability. Some people said they wore out a pair in only a few days of hiking. I had no such problem and did not wear out any pairs after about 200 miles of hiking on each pair I carried. There was universal consensus among the hikers I spoke with that these socks virtually eliminate blisters on your toes. I had absolutely zero toe blisters this year. It does take a little extra patience to put the Tetrasoks on and take them off. Early on in my hike I switched to using the Tetrasoks as my sock of choice over standard running socks.

Clothing

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Coolibar Fingerless gloves. These were a new item for me this year. I wouldn’t hike on the southern portion of the PCT without some sort of sun protection for your hands, especially if you are using trekking poles.

I wear a loose, long sleeved shirt and long pants, even when hiking in the desert. The sun on the PCT is strong and cloudy days are rare, so I’d advise all PCT hikers to be careful about sun protection. My shirt and pants are nylon and both are from Mountain Hardwear. Last year my hands got fried from long days in the sun. Use of trekking poles exposes your hands to far more sun than almost any other part of your body. This year I looked around for some sun gloves and found the Coolibar Fingerless glove. These are light, breathable and surprisingly comfortable on hot days. They will be a regular part of my clothing for all future desert hiking.

I also wore an Outdoor Research Sun Runner hat. The Sun Runner has a drape that covers your neck and the sides of your face, but is removable so you don’t have to look like Lawrence of Arabia all of the time. The drape has a drawcord so you can cinch it up in windy conditions.

I carried a GoLite Virga rainwear top. The Virga was a prototype model and is lighter than the production Virga that is now available from GoLite. I also used this as a windshirt on several occasions. I did not carry a separate windshirt this year, figuring the Virga would do double duty. This worked fine in the mostly good weather that I saw on the PCT. In nastier conditions it might pay to carry a windshirt also.

My primary insulation garments were a Patagonia Micropuff vest and a Western Mountaineering Flight jacket. That’s a lot of insulation, but 20 years of living in the desert has made me a cold weather wimp. The Micropuff vest is a versatile layer and I donned it several times on most days. The Flight jacket is deliciously warm and makes a luxurious pillow when not needed as insulation.

I carried shorts, but wore them primarily for swimming, and in town when I was washing my other clothing.

Trekking Poles

The PCT is pretty tough on trekking poles. I saw many hikers carrying mangled, completely ruined and bent aluminum poles. The slippery snow was the usual culprit, as hikers would slip and fall onto their poles. Lots of cross-country walking on loose talus and difficult, rocky stream crossings were also tough on trekking poles. Would a carbon fiber pole hold up to this type of abuse? Mine did. I carried a single pair of Komperdell C3 Airshock Men’s carbon fiber poles. These are three-section collapsible poles that also have anti-shock technology. I managed to avoid falling on my poles, despite falling down on the snow many times. My poles performed flawlessly. I can’t think of a better test for poles than hiking the Sierras during a year of heavy snow.

Camera

My Canon Powershot SD 300 has been my constant companion for the past couple of years. It weighs only 8 ounces, including extra batteries, extra memory and the compact Lowe camera case that I attach to my hip belt. The SD 300 is a 3 megapixel version that has many features for the more advanced photographer. Current versions offer even more features and resolution. My favorite feature is the sturdy, high quality aluminum body. I leave mine attached to my hip belt and drag it across the ground several times a day. Dust and a little moisture – no problem. But I am careful to pack in into a dry bag at all dicey stream crossings.

Gear List

Gear List for Summer Pacific Crest Trail
Clothing Worn While Hiking Weight
Function Style/Rationale Item Ounces Grams
hiking hat ballcap style with drape Outdoor Research Sun Runner hat 2.9 82
sunglasses snow and sun protection sunglasses 1.1 31
hiking shirt long sleeve Mountain Hardwear Shirt 5.7 162
hiking pants long pants Mountain Hardwear Canyon Pants 11.0 312
underwear synthetic boxers Patagonia Silkweight Capilene boxers 3.0 85
hiking socks synthetic toe socks Injinji Performance Tetrasoks 1.8 51
hiking shoes lightweight and breathable Montrail Continental Divide Shoes with Montrail Inserts (size 12.5) 17.7 502
watch feature packed Suunto Observer Titanium Watch 2.4 68
gloves sun protection Coolibar Fingerless Gloves 1.7 48
Other Items Worn or Carried Weight
Function Style/Rationale Item Ounces Grams
trekking poles carbon fiber collapsible Komperdell C3 Airshock Trekking Poles 13.6 386
Other Clothing Weight
Function Style/Rationale Item Ounces Grams
long underwear bivy warmth Patagonia Silkweight Capilene Bottom’s 5.7 5.7
nylon shorts lightweight running shorts 3.6 3.6
fleece hat nighttime warmth REI Windstopper Fleece Hat 1.8 1.8
insulated gloves light and warm PossumDown Gloves 1.9 1.9
socks light and thin extra socks (3 pairs) 5.7 5.7
insulated vest versatility Patagonia Micropuff Vest 6.7 6.7
insulated jacket extra warmth Western Mountaineering Flight Jacket 13.2 13.2
rainwear rain and wind protection GoLite Virga 6.0 6.0
Shelter and Sleep System Weight
Function Style/Rationale Item Ounces Grams
shelter tarp Bozeman Mountain Works Stealth 1 PRO tarp 10.8 10.8
stakes aluminum stakes 3.1 3.1
ground cloth ground protection Tyvek groundcloth 9′ x 3′ 5.5 5.5
sleeping bag long and light Western Mountaineering Summerlite sleeping bag 21.7 21.7
sleeping pad inflatable, torso length Bozeman Mountain Works TorsoLite pad 10.0 10.0
sleeping pad foam Cascade Designs Z-rest pad (3/4 length) 10.2 10.2
Packing Weight
Function Style/Rationale Item Ounces Grams
backpack frameless Six Moon Designs Starlite 23.0 23.0
packing organization multiple sizes assorted stuff sacks 2.2 2.2
Cooking and Water Weight
Function Style/Rationale Item Ounces Grams
cook kit alcohol stove and other gear Evernew 1.5 L pot, sponge, pot stand, windscreen, spoon, stove, lighter 8.1 230
water treatment chemical treatment Aqua Mira 2.0 57
water storage 6.5 liters total, plastic Platypus, Gatorade and others 4.4 125
Other Essentials Weight
Function Style/Rationale Item Ounces Grams
camera digital, small and light Canon SD 300 with case and extra memory/batteries 8.0 227
first aid and repair light and simple self-assembled kit 4.3 122
personal hygiene light and simple soap, alcohol gel, toilet paper, Deet 3.0 85
utilities light and simple headlamp, pen, paper, guidebook sections, maps, knife, matches 4.9 139
personal id and financial credit card, ATM Card, calling card, contact list, cash, driver’s license, permit 1.4 40
Added in Mountains Weight
Function Style/Rationale Item Ounces Grams
shelter tarptent for mosquito protection Tarptent Virga (dropped tarp and groundsheet) 23.0 652
food storage light Ursack Hybrid 20.0 567
ice ax snow safety Cassin Ghost ice ax 9.0 255
Overall Weight Summary
Weight Summary pounds kilograms
Total Worn or Carried While Hiking 3.1 1.4
Total Base Weight in Pack (desert) 10.5 4.8
Total Base Weight in Pack (mountains) 12.7 5.8
Full Skin out Base Weight (desert) 13.6 6.2
Full Skin out Base Weight (mountains) 15.8 7.2

Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape Rainwear/Shelter REVIEW

The Gatewood Cape has the same dual functionality as a poncho/tarp, but promises better shelter.

Introduction

When it was introduced in Spring 2006, the Gatewood Cape generated a lot of interest among ultralight backpackers because it promised to provide the same advantages of a poncho/tarp while hiking, but be a much better shelter. At 11.65 ounces (with tieout cords and pole harness), the Gatewood Cape weighs about 7 ounces more than the most minimalist spinnaker poncho/tarp. However, many users routinely use a poncho/tarp in conjunction with a lightweight bivy sack or sleeping bag with a waterproof/breathable shell for extra protection from rain spray and spindrift. If the Gatewood Cape offers enough weather protection in the shelter mode that no added protection is required, the weights of the competing systems are comparable. Here, I report on the performance and weather worthiness of the Gatewood Cape based on five months of intensive testing under alpine conditions, including a lot of wet weather.

Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape REVIEW - 1
The Gatewood Cape in shelter mode after a rain and hail storm at 12,000 feet in the Weminuche Wilderness, Southwest Colorado.

What’s Good

  • Better ventilation than a typical poncho or poncho/tarp
  • Much better shelter than a poncho/tarp
  • Converts to a roomy one-person shelter with vestibule
  • Eliminates the need for a supplementary bivy sack or bag cover
  • Zippered pocket does triple duty – stuff sack, tent pocket, rainwear pocket
  • Good fitting hood with drawcord
  • Adequate space for a taller person in shelter mode
  • Covers a backpack in rainwear mode, eliminating the need for a pack cover

What’s Not So Good

  • Does not eliminate the drawbacks of a poncho
  • Does not fully cover the arms in rainwear mode
  • Available in only one size that fits a taller person
  • Length adjustment snaps are difficult to use

Specifications

  Manufacturer

Six Moon Designs

  Year/Model

2006 Gatewood Cape

  Style

Poncho/shelter

  What’s Included

Cape, braided nylon guyline, pole harness

  Fabric

30d 1.3 oz/yd2 (44 g/m2) silicone impregnated ripstop nylon

  Weight

Measured weight 11.65 oz (330 g) with guylines and pole harness; manufacturer’s specification 11 oz (312 g)

  Dimensions
(shelter mode)

Width 96 in (244 cm), overall depth 72 in (183 cm), end depth 30 in (76 cm), rear depth 43 in (109 cm), beak extends out approximately 29 in (74 cm). All measurements are approximate, depending on how the shelter is set up.

  Protected Area

35 ft2 (3.25 m2), manufacturer specification

  Features

Integrated pocket, full height front zipper, arm slits, removable pole harness, snaps for shortening the cape in rainwear mode

  Options

None

  MSRP

$110

Performance

The Gatewood Cape is based on the same principle as a poncho/tarp, but the implementation is much different. For rainwear, the Gatewood Cape is like a poncho with a full front zipper for ventilation. But that’s where the similarity ends. In shelter mode, it converts to a one-person single wall shelter somewhat similar to the Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo (and very similar to the new Wild Oasis), but without the mesh entry. In other words, it is a better poncho and a much better shelter than a poncho/tarp.

Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape REVIEW - 2
Several views of the Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape set up to create more interior space. The front (top left) has an extendable beak with a zippered entry. The back (top right) is solid, and can be staked to the ground or raised. The side view (bottom left) shows the beak extended. And a top view (bottom right) shows its overall proportions.

I followed the instructions to set up the Cape the first time using one trekking pole set at 45 inches, which creates a rectangular shelter with a low front beak, adequate headroom only at the center, and a flat-sloped backside that limited interior usable space. I quickly discovered that the Cape pitches more to my liking using a 50-inch long trekking pole at the center and a second trekking pole to extend the beak. The resulting shelter, as shown in the photos above, has much better headroom, more usable interior space, and a large sheltered area under the beak. My modifications require a 30-inch extension to the front guyline. Overall, the Gatewood is very easy to setup. Six stakes are required for a secure pitch.

Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape REVIEW - 3
The Gatewood Cape is held upright by a trekking pole inserted into a grommet supported by a harness in the hood opening (left). The plastic hook connectors in my sample Cape have been replaced with mini-buckles in the current version. Although the harness is removable, I found it easier to leave it in while wearing the Cape in poncho mode. The Cape’s zippered pocket (right) serves triple duty as a stuff sack, chest pocket in poncho mode, and inside storage pocket in shelter mode.

Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape REVIEW - 4
Dimensions of the Gatewood Cape set up for expanded interior room, as shown in the photo gallery above. The sleeping area (back of white line) is approximately 96 inches wide and 30 inches deep at the ends. The shelter’s overall depth (red line) is approximately 72 inches at the center, of which 29 inches is under the beak and 43 inches is in the sleeping area. Headroom is about 45 inches at the center and about 22 inches in a sleeping position. The front of the beak is about 23 inches above the ground. (Note that the dimensions will vary depending on how the shelter is set up.)

Performance in Rainwear Mode

In rainwear mode, the Gatewood has all the advantages and disadvantages of a normal poncho (See The Poncho Tarp: Techniques and Gear Systems for Inclement Conditions for an in-depth discussion.) On the plus side, the Cape serves as rainwear, pack cover, and shelter for only 11.65 ounces. On the negative side, it flaps badly in the wind, limits visibility of your feet, and has poor ventilation in the chest area.

Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape REVIEW - 5
In poncho mode, I wear the Gatewood Cape with silnylon chaps. The Cape works well as rainwear for showers, but heavy condensation accumulates inside while hiking uphill in prolonged rain. On this very wet 6-day trip I often wore a lightweight rain jacket (GoLite Virga) under the Cape to stay dry.

For rain protection, the Cape is easy to don and extend over my backpack. It is nice to retract my hands to the inside to keep them warmer, and I can open the front zipper to increase ventilation when conditions permit. Unlike many poncho/tarps, I can leave the Gatewood’s 6-inch guylines attached while in poncho mode when hiking on trail, and have minimal problems with guylines catching on vegetation. However, the Gatewood (or any poncho) is a pain for bushwhacking. The guylines frequently catch on vegetation, and foot visibility is poor. I would much prefer to wear a rainsuit off-trail.

In rainwear mode, the Gatewood best fits a taller person, about 5 feet 10 inches or taller. On a shorter person it will be dragging on the ground. The Cape has some snaps and loops inside to shorten the sides, but they are difficult to attach and often come loose. It would be nice to have a shorter version of the Cape.

I donned the Gatewood Cape for protection from all types of precipitation, including hail and snow. On one occasion, at 13,000 feet on the Continental Divide Trail in July, I waited out a violent “thundersnow” storm by sitting down and covering myself with the Cape. On many other occasions I hiked with the Cape on briefly for showers or downpours, or on for hours in drizzle or intermittent rain. The Gatewood Cape works very well for showers, but gets very damp inside when walking in prolonged rain. When hiking uphill in very damp rainy weather, the Cape gets as wet on the inside as it is on the outside! This problem while carrying a pack uphill in damp rainy weather is not unique to the Gatewood Cape.

Performance in Shelter Mode

The summer of 2006 was a wet one in the Weminuche Wilderness in southwestern Colorado, so the Gatewood got plenty of testing under rainy conditions. The majority of the time I managed to set up the Gatewood with the back in the direction of incoming storms, or there was no really strong wind with the rain, so I stayed dry and warm under the Gatewood as a solo shelter.

However, on one occasion (shown in the top photo) I set up the Gatewood to take a siesta during an afternoon hailstorm which hit the backside of the shelter (so far so good). Then, after midnight I was hit by a thunderstorm with 30 mph winds from the front side (not so good). Wind-driven rain hit my sleeping bag as I huddled in the rear of the shelter, and in the morning I was sleeping on a puddle of water. Fortunately my sleeping bag (MontBell Alpine Down Hugger) has an excellent water-resistant shell and my down stayed dry. In retrospect, the Cape would have provided better protection from wind-driven rain if I had pitched it lower (as per the Six Moon Designs instructions), but this was one of those occasions where I was caught by surprise and just had to hunker down.

Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape REVIEW - 6
On most of my trips I had gentle rains and the Gatewood did a superb job as a solo shelter. On this particular trip it rained off and on all day, so I camped at an alpine lake at 12,550 feet and went fishing between squalls.

Under rainy conditions, and cool nights following a rain, the Gatewood shelter is as prone to condensation as any other single wall tent. When moving around in the Gatewood, such as when dressing, it is easy to brush the walls and get clothing damp. The best solution I found to minimize condensation is to raise the sides of the Cape, open the beak, and open the hood at the top as much as weather will allow. In wet or damp conditions when condensation is inevitable, I wipe the inside walls with my bandana to remove condensation.

Finally, note that the Gatewood Cape does not have any bug netting, so it provides little or no bug protection.

Assessment

Especially where bugs are not a big problem, the Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape is a SuperUltraLight or ultralight backpacker’s dream come true. For less than 12 ounces, the Gatewood provides rainwear, pack cover, and shelter in one piece of gear. As rainwear, the Gatewood performs better than a normal poncho or poncho/tarp, but still has all of their disadvantages. Core ventilation is somewhat improved with the Gatewood’s full front zipper, but the zipper is of limited use when it’s raining. As a shelter, the Gatewood performs much better than a poncho/tarp, offering full protection from rain and spindrift (unless you get hit from the front with wind-driven rain). The front beak can be dropped down some to minimize that problem, if you plan ahead or have time to do it before you get blasted.

Overall, the Gatewood Cape is weight efficient when you factor in that you don’t have to also carry a lightweight bivy, bag cover, or use a heavier waterproof sleeping bag. It enables me to routinely and confidently camp in the alpine zone without these extras, much to my delight.

What’s Unique

In rainwear mode, the Gatewood Cape has a full front zipper to provide some core ventilation. In shelter mode, the Gatewood is a full-fledged solo shelter, providing much better storm protection than a poncho/tarp.

Recommendations for Improvement

The Gatewood Cape is an outstanding concept and design, and is a huge improvement in integrated rainwear/shelter gear for ultralight backpackers. A few details that could be improved are:

  • Offer the Cape in a smaller size for shorter people.
  • Improve the attachment for shortening the sides in rainwear mode.
  • Offer an optional clip-in bug screen.

GoLite Multi-Sport Backpack REVIEW

If you can fit your gear into 30 liters, for 1 pound 5 ounces you get a bomber pack with almost every conceivable feature (except a frame).

Introduction

GoLite Multi-Sport Backpack REVIEW - 1
For 1 pound 5 ounces, you get a bomber pack with almost every conceivable feature (except a frame). The author easily fit all his gear for a three day trip into the GoLite Multi-Sport Pack.

The GoLite Multi-Sport pack is a frameless, panel-loading, small volume pack for ultralight backpacking, fast packing, and adventure racing. Alternatively, it can be used as a large day pack. The Multi-Sport is a larger version of the popular GoLite 24 adventure racing pack. With over fifty percent more volume than the 24, a dedicated ultralight backpacker can get a five-day or longer trip out of this pack. Other backpackers may eek out an overnighter or three day weekend. Part of the fun is challenging yourself to get your gear down to 31 liters (1900 ci)!

What’s Good

  • For 1 pound 5 ounces (size medium) you get a bomber pack with almost every conceivable feature
  • Excellent load control. Good for maintaining balance in difficult terrain and/or climbing. You can even run in the pack
  • Good external storage – lots of pockets, bungees and daisy chains
  • Durable 6.7 oz/yd2 Arrowhead Cordura nylon pack body
  • Hipbelt is comfortable, contours to the waist, distributes load well, and has pockets
  • The air channel backpanel ventilates your back
  • "Cool Factor" of carrying a small pack

What’s Not So Good

  • Limited volume. Only dedicated ultralight backpackers will be able to get more than an overnighter out of the Multi-Sport (but those who can will love the pack)
  • Shoulder strap foam is not firm enough
  • External side pockets and hipbelt pockets are small
  • Pack is not waterproof (nor is it intended to be waterproof)
  • Lack of frame, and shoulder strap design limit load capacity to 20 pounds or less (but most hikers will be challenged to fit more than 15-20 pounds in the pack)

Specifications

  Manufacturer

GoLite

  Year/Model

2006 Multi-Sport Pack

  Style

Frameless, panel loading

  Volume

Size Large (tested): 2000 ci (33 L). Size Medium: 1900 ci (31 L)

  Weight

Size Large (tested): 1 lb 10 oz (0.74 kg) measured weight; manufacturer’s specification 1 lb 6 oz (0.62 kg). Size Medium: 1 lb 5 oz (0.60 kg) manufacturer’s specification.

  Fabric

Arrowhead Cordura double ripstop nylon pack body, 6.7 oz/yd2 (227 g/m2)

  Features

  • Panel loading, small volume pack for ultralight backpacking and adventure racing
  • Webbing hipbelt with gusseted mesh pockets
  • Two side mesh pockets
  • Compression straps on each side (which also secure long loads in side pockets)
  • Large rear stretch mesh contoured sleeve/pocket with side stabilizer mesh panel and bungee drawcord with snap
  • Contoured air-channel mesh backpanel
  • Front-loading #5 coil zippered main compartment (not a waterproof zipper)
  • Two internal 3-liter hydration sleeves
  • Front daisy chain
  • Rear bungee system for gear attachment
  • Ice axe loop and haul loop

  Volume To Weight Ratio

76.9 ci/oz size L (based on 2000 ci and a measured weight of 26 oz)

  Comfortable Load Carrying Capacity

20 lb (9.1 kg) estimated comfortable load carrying capacity for an average person carrying the pack all day. The manufacturer’s estimate is 25 lb (11.3 kg)

  Carry Load to Pack Weight Ratio

12.3 (based on 20 lb and a measured weight of 1.62 lb)

  MSRP

$100

Performance

The advantage of a small pack designed for adventure racing, such as the GoLite Multi-Sport, is its good load control. The pack and its contents are closer to your center of gravity than a large volume “backpacking” pack. As such, the pack moves with you helping your balance in difficult terrain such as off trail scrambling, peak bagging or even running. The narrow profile of the pack and durable fabric are well suited to bushwhacking, canyoneering, or climbing. And there is a definite "Cool Factor" to carrying such a small pack into the backcountry.

At 2000 cubic inches in size large, the Multi-Sport is also a popular pack size for a day hiking. It’s about the right size to hold summer gear for two people sharing the pack or winter day hiking gear for one person.

With the hipbelt, shoulder straps and sternum strap properly adjusted I found that I could run in the Multi-Sport Pack without it flopping around. I did just that on a couple of sections of the AT to make up time when I was behind schedule and losing daylight. I had an easy time boulder hopping across streams. A surprise advantage of the pack was its stability while walking long stretches of deep bogs with alternating footing of spongy sphagnum moss, rocks, decaying logs, and the occasional extra deep (and hidden) pocket of water and muck.

The feature set of the Multi-Sport includes a durable Cordura nylon pack body, webbing hipbelt with side pockets, padded shoulder straps, padded and ventilated backpanel, three external pockets, two internal 3-liter hydration sleeves with hydration ports, bungee cord frontpanel, daisy chain, and compression straps.

GoLite Multi-Sport Backpack REVIEW - 3
The GoLite Multi-Sport Pack has excellent external storage. A fuel canister failed the first night and I had to leave the stove attached to the canister; an awkward item to stow. The solution was easy with all the storage options available on the Multi-Sport Pack. In this case the rear bungee was perfect.

The Multi-Sport Pack has a good assortment of external pockets, bungees, and daisy chains. With strategic external storage of gear you may not need to go into the main pack body for most of the day. But some of the pockets are a bit small. The side pockets are too short to adequately stow a 2 liter Platypus bladder (although the side compression straps help). The hipbelt pockets are small – they will fit an energy bar, a snack in a baggie, or Geko size GPS, but they do not comfortably fit an e-Trex size GPS or a compact digital camera.

GoLite Multi-Sport Backpack REVIEW - 2
The contoured air-channel mesh backpanel on the GoLite Multi-Sport. While not perfect, I found that the air channel kept my back less sweaty than most packs I’ve used. The arrow points to the center air channel that is formed by the two raised side panels of foam and mesh.

The suspension of the Multi-Sport is a mixture of mostly good and some just OK design. It has a very good webbing hipbelt. It wraps around the waist, distributes load well and is very comfortable. The overall geometry of the pack body, hipbelt, shoulder straps, and sternum strap did a good job of keeping the pack tight against my torso. As noted earlier I could even run in the pack. The only downside of the suspension is that the shoulder strap foam is not firm enough to distribute load across the full width of the straps. This affects the overall comfortable load carrying capacity of the pack. The shoulder straps worked fine with the 12-15 pound loads I typically carried, although I needed to use the sternum strap to adjust them to a comfortable position. At over 20 pounds the shoulder straps start to dig in and become uncomfortable. So, 20 pounds is probably the comfortable carry limit of the pack unless you have tougher than average shoulders. (This may be a moot point since most backpackers will be challenged get more than 15-20 pounds of gear into the 31 to 33 liter volume of the Multi-Sport Pack.)

The Multi-Sport Pack is not designed to be waterproof. Instead, it is designed to drain water. The main compartment zipper on the top of the pack is not waterproof and has no storm flap. There are large, strategically placed drain holes so that any water that gets in the pack body or pockets will quickly exit. To keep gear dry you’ll need to use a pack cover, a waterproof pack liner and/or waterproof storage sacks. One advantage of the draining design is that the main compartment zipper is easy to use (waterproof zippers are notorious for being sticky and difficult to operate). Another advantage is that you get to decide on the necessity and added weight of waterproofing your pack and its contents. Depending on your philosophy about waterproofing a pack, you’ll either love or hate the Multi-Sport Pack’s design. Personally, I like the design.

What’s Unique

GoLite Multi-Sport Backpack REVIEW - 4

The Multi-sport is a unique blend of very durable pack fabric, excellent load control, good external storage, sized for three to five day off trail trips (assuming an ultralight hiker with a compact load) in a pack that weighs 1 pound 5 ounces in size medium (1 pound 10 ounces in size large). It clearly shows its adventure racing roots, and is one of a few packs that one can run in.

Recommendations for Improvement

The shoulder straps on the GoLite Multi-Sport Pack need stiffer foam. The hipbelt pockets should be large enough to store an e-Trex size GPS and/or a compact digital camera. At least one of the side pockets could be a bit taller to hold a 2 liter Platypus bladder.

Valandré Mirage Sleeping Bag REVIEW

Beautifully constructed, lightweight, and highly-efficient mummy for three-season conditions. But does it have the versatility you need?

Introduction

At less than 1.5 pounds for a 6 foot bag with 2.6 inches of loft on top, the Valandré Mirage delivers a lot of insulation for the weight. With its high-contour cut, shaped footbox and short 13-inch side zip, the Mirage is an extremely efficient mummy bag. It is beautifully constructed of high quality materials. However, its versatility is limited by a lack of certain options.

What’s Good

  • High loft for the weight
  • Lightweight, highly-breathable, downproof, water-resistant, and soft Asahi Kasei shell
  • Shaped cut leaves room for a parka inside, gives extra space in the foot area, and maintains a trim fit from the hips to the ankles
  • Short zipper allows for optimum distribution of down
  • High-loft 850+ down

What’s Not So Good

  • Short 13-inch side zipper offers very minimal ventilation
  • Tapered cut is not for large or claustrophobic hikers
  • Not cheap at $349

Specifications

  Year/Model

2006 Valandré Mirage

  Style

Hooded, side zip mummy bag

  Fill

12.3 oz (350 g) 850+ fill goose down

  Measured Loft

2.6 in (6.6 cm) single-layer; total loft 5.2 in (13.2 cm)

  Manufacturer Claimed Temperature Rating

23 °F (- 5 °C) “extreme rating”

  Weight

Measured weight 23.6 oz (669 g); manufacturer’s specification 22.0 oz (624 g)

  Sizes

Medium length (6 ft 0.5 in / 185 cm) tested; also available in short (5 ft 7 in / 170 cm) and long (6 ft 6 in / 200 cm)

  Fabrics

Shell and lining are Asahi Kasei Impact 66 Ripstop 1.1 oz/yd2 (37 g/m2)

  Features

13 in (33 cm) left zip (no draft tube), 5 in (13 cm) baffles at the upper body tapering to 7 in (18 cm) baffles at the foot area, shaped footbox, hood drawcord, 2 hang loops, stuff sack, storage bag

   MSRP

$322 – small, $337 – medium, $354 – large

Performance

The Valandré Mirage is a mummy bag that weighs a light 23.6 ounces in a size medium. 12.3 ounces of this weight is 850+ fill goose down, which provides 2.6 inches of loft on top of the hiker. It has differential cut baffles for improved lofting. The baffles are open on the sides, allowing some shifting of down from front to back if necessary.

Both the outer shell and lining of the bag are Asahi Kasei Impact 66 which is lightweight, highly breathable, downproof, soft, and surprisingly strong. Even on nights when I got into the bag wearing slightly damp clothing, I found that the bag was dry in the morning with no loft degradation due to the ability of the Asahi Kasei fabric to transport moisture. The fabric is treated with a DWR that gives it some water repellency and it sheds water quickly. However, it will soak through; it is important to keep the bag away from wet floors or tent walls with heavy condensation.

The bag comes with a nylon stuff sack and mesh storage bag. The stuff sack weighs only 0.8 ounces but is a very tight fit for the bag. I am not a fan of small stuff sacks or compression sacks with high loft insulation because of their effect on insulation longevity, so I used a larger stuff sack when field testing the Mirage.

Valandré Mirage Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 1
The Valandré Mirage has a 13-inch zip on the left side.

The Mirage has a short 13-inch side zipper that allows for easy entrance and exit as well as limited ventilation. There are no other ventilation options on the bag. The zipper has no draft tube or flap which makes it more susceptible to losing warmth. However, the short length makes this not much of an issue in the field and cinching the hood drawcord creates some bunching and overlap of fabric in that area, blocking most of the zipper. As a result, I never noticed a cold spot in the field, even when sleeping under the stars.

Valandré Mirage Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 2
The zipper has no flap or draft tube, as shown from this image taken inside the bag.

There is no neck collar on the Mirage but the hood closure provides an excellent seal from drafts. Tightening the hood drawcords results in a triangular opening that is perfect for the nose and mouth. The hood is nicely shaped for full insulation around the head and shoulders without excess space when the hood is cinched.

Valandré Mirage Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 3
The shaped hood forms a perfect triangle-shaped breathing hole.

The cordlocks lock together for a good seal without the need for snaps or a Velcro flap. A hard press against the release button is required but it opens easily once you get the hang of it. Once open, exiting the bag is quick and easy.

Valandré Mirage Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 4
Cordlocks that click together allow for a secure neck closure without external snaps or Velcro.

The Valandré bag has a very dramatic cut, with circumferences going from 62 to 53 to 38 inches (158 to 135 to 97 centimeters) at the shoulder, hip and foot. The taper provides adequate space in the upper body to wear a high loft jacket while providing a snug and highly efficient cut from the hips down. The foot area is shaped, providing enough room for down booties, a warm water bottle or just extra wiggle room. The fit is a good compromise of efficiency while still allowing extra insulation to push the bag into colder temperatures.

Valandré Mirage Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 5
While the hip to lower leg area is very snug, the shaped footbox (seams shown with arrows) gives extra room for the feet.

At $349, the Valandré Mirage is not a value-priced down bag. However, it is beautifully constructed with high-quality fabric and high-loft down. When compared to similar bags from companies such as Western Mountaineering and Feathered Friends, the price is right in the ballpark and the Valandré offers similar excellent quality with a unique set of features. Despite extensive field testing in a variety of conditions, I never experienced any durability issues and didn’t lose more than a couple of feathers through seams. The Mirage is an excellent value.

Missing from this review (and for all sleeping bag reviews published here, for that matter) will be an assessment of whether or not the sleeping bag performs adequately at temperatures near its manufacturer-reported temperature rating. Click here for the complete Backpacking Light Position Statement on Sleeping Bag Temperature Ratings.

What’s Unique

The Mirage gives excellent loft for the weight. The contoured cut provides enough space to wear a parka inside while giving an efficient fit from the hips down.

Recommendations for Improvement

While the Valandré Mirage is a highly recommended bag, it doesn’t offer many ventilation options, limiting its versatility. While it would add some weight and complexity, an opening in the foot area would be a welcome change, allowing for extra ventilation when temperatures get warmer.

Tent Comparison: Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa

These two outstanding tents vie for the title of best two-person ultralight single-wall shelter – which one has the edge?

Introduction

The ultralight backpacking community is fortunate to have both Six Moon Designs and Tarptent. With each new model, Ron Moak of Six Moon Designs and Henry Shires of Tarptent vie for the title of best ultralight single-walled shelter. The competition has halved the weight of a traditional two-person tent and saved many of us a couple of pounds without sacrificing weather protection or comfort. But if you have to choose between the Tarptent Squall 2 and the Six Moon Designs Europa, which one will fit your needs best?

Ron and Henry are friends by the way, and this is a friendly competition. They even help each other with tent design. When I called Ron a couple of years ago, Henry was visiting him. I got to talk to both of them about the original Squall and Europa tents.

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 1
The Six Moon Designs Europa on the left is the larger tent with about 25% more area. The Tarptent Squall 2 on the right has a tauter and more stable pitch.

Both the Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa are highly recommended with exceptional quality in materials and workmanship, outstanding field performance based on sound design principles, and a performance-to-weight ratio at the top of their class. The Squall 2 and Europa have similar designs and similar weights. They both have a rear aluminum hoop pole, mesh vents on the sides, and front beak-style vestibules. Both have a new floating bathtub floor to reduce strain on the silnylon floor fabric and improve floor durability. Each tent has its strengths. Pick the tent that best meets your needs.

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 2
The Six Moon Designs Europa pitched near a humid sphagnum bog after a night of rain. The vestibule was left open all night, but the tent stayed mostly dry inside with minimal condensation. The overhanging front of the tent allows you leave the vestibule pulled back, even in moderate rain. This significantly improves ventilation and views.

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 3
The Tarptent Squall 2 has a very taut and stable pitch and increased headroom due to a dual pole pitch.

Area to Weight Ratio

The Europa has a higher area to weight ratio, 1.31 ft2/oz versus 1.13 ft2/oz for the Squall 2. The Europa has 23% more floor area and 25% more total area. The Squall 2 closes the gap a bit when you sit up, with more headroom due to its dual pole pitch and greater latitude in pitch height. The Squall 2 is lighter at 32 ounces, versus 34 ounces for the Europa.

Comparison of Major Features
  Weight (oz) Floor Area (ft2) Vestibule Area (ft2) Floor + Vestibule Area (ft2) Area to Weight Ratio, Floor + Vestibule Area to Weight Ratio, Floor only
Squall 2 31.9 27.9 8.1 36.0 1.13 0.88
Europa 34.3 34.3 10.7 45.0 1.31 1.00
Edge to: Squall 2 Europa Europa Europa Europa Europa

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 4
The Europa has 23% more floor area and lots of storage. It has excellent ventilation for a single-walled tent due to large amounts of mesh on the side and rear walls. Also notice how well the mesh sidewalls keep tent contents (like sleeping bags) away from the tent fly.

Living Quarters

Both tents are roomy but the Europa has more floor area and more storage area. The Europa’s 7.5 foot long floor is 9 inches longer overall and 13 inches wider at the rear. That equates to 23% more floor area than the Squall. The Europa also has more storage places outside the main sleeping area to put your gear, like the side areas between the tent canopy and the inner mesh walls and the additional space at the end of the tent. You can move around a bit more easily side to side in the Europa because the mesh walls keep you away from the condensing tent walls. And the overhanging front of the tent means that you can probably skip the vestibule and get much better views and ventilation (assuming the tent is pitched so that rain is not driving in the front).

Floor Area Dimensions Comparison
  Floor Dimensions
(in)
Floor Area
(ft2)
  Front Rear Length  
Squall 2 59.5 41 80 27.9
Europa 57 54 89 34.3
Edge to: Squall 2 Europa Europa Europa

The Squall 2 has more livable space in the front of the tent when you sit up. The dual pole system of the Squall 2 provides more headroom than the Europa. Two can sit side by side and eat dinner together. The dual front poles and center opening zipper on the Squall 2 give equal access and make it easier to exit the tent without bothering your tent partner. Six Moon Designs addresses the central front entrance pole problem with a cantilevered front entry that allows you to get into the tent behind the front pole. But the side access zipper on the Europa means that one camper has to go across the camper on the zipper side to exit the tent. The Squall’s double poles may help headroom but they do not completely solve the tent exit problem. It is awkward to get around the front guyline on the Squall which is in the center of the tent exit. Nonetheless the camper on the non-zipper side of the Europa has a more difficult exit than either camper in the Squall 2.

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 5

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 6

The Squall 2 has more room in the front of the tent when you sit up (left). The dual poles of the Squall 2 provide a lot more headroom than the Europa. Two can sit side by side and eat dinner together. The center exit on the Squall 2 is nice in concept but dodging around the front ridgeline isn’t significantly easier than getting around the center pole. Although two people can sit side by side in the Europa, it is more cramped. However, its high center peak makes it very roomy for one to sit up (right).

Condensation Management

Condensation may be the Achilles heel of single walled shelters, but the Europa does the best job to date at controlling it. The front overhang on the tent is enough that you can skip the vestibule, or just use half, in many conditions. This dramatically increases airflow and reduces condensation compared to a tent with a closed vestibule (especially if you also roll back the mesh door of the Europa). Two thirds of the inner tent walls are mesh for improved ventilation and the mesh keeps sleeping bags away from wet outer walls.

The steeper sidewalls and more headroom on the Squall 2 help reduce brushes against wet inner tent walls when exiting the tent. But the lower wall protection of the Europa’s larger mesh walls probably matters more because it keeps sleeping bags from extended rests against wet tent walls while sleeping.

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 7
The Europa does a better job of controlling condensation than the Squall 2. The front overhang on the tent is a key element since you can skip using the full vestibule in many conditions, which dramatically increases airflow and reduces condensation over a tent with a closed vestibule (especially if you also roll back the mesh door of the Europa). You can even cook under the shelter of the overhanging front.

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 5

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 6

Side wall detail. The lower two-thirds of the Europa’s (left) sidewalls are mesh. This and a large rear mesh panel contribute to the Europa’s excellent condensation management. The Squall 2 (right) has significantly less mesh in the sidewalls.

Pitching

It is easier to get a good pitch in the Squall 2 and the resulting pitch is tauter than anything you can achieve in the Europa. The Squall 2 has a slightly more complex pitch with two poles (requires a bit more tweaking) and four stakes. The Squall 2 is somewhat more flexible about front pole height, which you can vary a number of inches without significantly affecting the tautness or quality of the tent’s pitch.

The Europa has a slightly simpler pitch with a single pole and four stakes. It pitches very quickly once you have the front pole height dialed-in. Both tents have a limited range of pitch heights that will keep the tent body taut and let the bathtub floor locate correctly. But the Europa is pickier and only comes reasonably taut at a narrow range of pole heights (around 48 inches is best). If you vary the tent pitch height as the Six Moon Designs literature suggests, the tent body loses some tension and the floor geometry is off by a bit. The front tieout angle on the Europa may be too steep to apply full tension to the ridgeline.

Stability

The Squall 2 has a tauter pitch and tauter ridgeline. The dual poles add some side-load stability to the tent. The additional side tieouts on the edge of the fly also add considerable side stability. They are much more effective than the middle of the side tieouts on the Europa.

Weather Protection

A slight nod goes to the Europa. Both tents do a good job of keeping rain out. Both have good bathtub floors. The Europa has a larger overall protected area (area under the entire tent fly, not just the floor and vestibule). The overhanging front of the Europa provides better rain protection with the vestibule open or half open. This and a better vestibule vent make it easier to cook and get views and ventilation in rainy conditions. The vestibule on the Europa is larger and extends closer to the ground. With the two-pole design on the Squall, water can pool on the flat dual ridgeline surface as the tent looses tension in a strong downpour.

Vestibule

The Europa has a better vestibule. With the Europa’s overhanging front you may not need to use the vestibule (although we wish they would go back to the more substantial overhang in the previous model). The Europa has a larger vestibule that extends closer to the ground. The Europa also has a more functional vestibule/cooking vent. The side areas on the Europa between the canopy and the inner mesh walls also make a good vestibule-like storage area and give you a place to put shoes and such if you decide to keep the front vestibule open. But the vestibules in both tents need help. The center Velcro closure is difficult to reach and fasten from inside the tent. It is difficult to close from outside the tent when under normal tension. In both tents, the vestibule angle limits the front tieout to a very specific angle.

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 5

Comparison of Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa 2005 - 6

Without any stiffener to shield it from rain, the front vestibule vent on the Squall 2 (left) is only usable in dry conditions. The Europa’s vestibule vent has a stiffener so it stays open for ventilation and keeps rain out (right).

Conclusion

Both tents are superb examples of ultralight two-person shelters with full weather and bug protection. Although there are many similarities between the tents, there are enough differences in design and performance that an understanding of those differences and your preferences and use patterns should help you choose between the two.

The Six Moon Designs Europa is probably the better all-round tent for most backpackers. It has more room, a higher area to weight ratio, more storage, and a bit more rain protection. It has significantly better condensation resistance. The overhanging front entry and huge mesh walls are major contributors to its better condensation management. With the vestibule open and unavailable for weather protected storage, there is still plenty of room in the rear of the tent and along the sides under the fly to stow gear. Most times you can cook under the shelter of the overhanging front without worrying about humidity buildup in the tent or poor ventilation caused by a closed vestibule. And an open vestibule gives you better views and less claustrophobia.

If you push the limits of tarp tenting and camp above tree line where high winds are possible, then the Tarptent Squall 2 may be a better choice. It has a tauter pitch and is more stable. The dual poles, better side tieouts, and tauter pitch give it greater resistance to strong side winds. There is the option to drop the pitch height to a lower and more wind-resistant profile.

The Squall 2 has more headroom in the front of the tent. If sitting side by side is a high priority then the Squall 2 may be a more attractive option. Two can sit up and comfortably eat dinner in the Squall. We think the dual pole WOW! factor may be a major reason why people buy the Squall.

Note for tall campers: the Europa provides almost a foot more length.

Six Moon Designs Europa Tent REVIEW

Possibly the finest 2-pound two-person shelter on the market – providing you don’t intend to use it above tree line in intense winds.

Introduction

six-moon-designs-europa-single-wall-tent-review REVIEW - 1
The overhanging front of the Europa allows you to leave the vestibule pulled back even in moderate rain to significantly improve ventilation and views. Here, the tent interior was mostly dry after the vestibule was left open all night in the rain.

Six Moon Designs and Tarptent continually compete to make the best ultralight single-walled tent on the market. In keeping with the competition, the revised Six Moon Designs Europa (updated in 2005) is an improvement over its predecessor and a serious competitor to the popular Tarptent Squall 2. The Europa is exceptionally large for a full-featured 2-pound tent and has one of highest area to weight ratios we’ve seen in a tent. At 7.5 feet long inside, the Europa will accommodate the tallest backpackers. Like the Squall 2, the Europa is a complete, full featured tent for around 2 pounds with bug protection, weather protection, a full bathtub floor and a vestibule you can cook in. It has a fast setup with a single pole and only four stakes. But of course it’s not perfect…

Refer to Comparison: Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa for a detailed discussion of the differences between these two tents.

six-moon-designs-europa-single-wall-tent-review REVIEW - 2
The Europa has a large floor area. It has excellent ventilation for a single walled tent due to lots of mesh on the side and rear walls. Also notice how well the mesh sidewalls keep tent contents like the sleeping bag away from the tent fly. In addition to storage are in the end of the tent, when the vestibule is open there is room along the side of the tent wall but under the fly for storage.

What’s Good

  • Large floor area and very high area to weight ratio. Interior length of 7.5 feet is great for tall sleepers and leaves dry storage room in rear of tent
  • Gaps between tent canopy and interior mesh walls can be used as secondary vestibules
  • Excellent condensation resistance for a non-breathable single-wall tent
  • Overhang on front of tent allows use of tent in rain without vestibule in many conditions, substantially improving ventilation, condensation resistance and views in rainy conditions
  • Huge amounts of mesh (two thirds of the interior tent walls are mesh) provide excellent ventilation and keeps sleeping bags away from condensing tent walls
  • Doors and beak are easily rolled up for full ventilation and views. Rolling up door mesh increases air flow and ventilation and significantly decreases condensation
  • Floating bathtub floor reduces floor tension and minimizes punctures from sharp objects – important for a light 1.3 oz/yd2 silnylon floor
  • Fast, four stake, single trekking pole setup. Webbing and buckle guy line adjusters on all tent cords. Can adjust tent tension without going outside
  • Large beak vestibule provides excellent protection but has enough of a gap at the bottom for good airflow. Stiffened vestibule vent stays open in rain

What’s Not So Good

  • Fussy about pitch. Can only get tent body taut when front pole height is in a narrow range
  • Vestibule works only with a very specific tie-out cord angle, which may be a bit too steep to apply full tension to the tent’s ridgeline
  • With a singe front pole, the tent entry area is somewhat cramped for two people to sit side by side
  • Center Velcro closure on beak/vestibule is difficult to close

Specifications

  Model/Year

2005 Six Moon Designs Europa (with Ultralight Floor) tested (same as 2006 model)

  Style

Two-person single wall tent with floor

  Fabrics

1.3 oz/yd2 (44 g/m2) silicone impregnated ripstop nylon, 1 oz/yd2 (34 g/m2) no-see-um netting

  Pole Material

Hoop Pole: Easton 7075 HS aluminum, 9 mm diameter

  Weight Full Package
As supplied by manufacturer with all included items

Measured weight: 2 lb 1.9 oz (0.96 kg)
Shelter 1 lb 13.3 oz (0.83 kg), rear pole 4.0 oz (113 g), stuff sack 0.6 oz (17 g)
Manufacturer’s specification 2 lb 1.0 oz (0.94 kg) with Ultralight Floor and 2 lb 5.0 oz (1.05 kg) with Standard Floor.
Note: tent does not come with stakes.

  Weight Manufacturer Minimum
Includes minimum number of items needed to erect tent

2 lb 2.9 oz (0.99 kg) measured weight (assumes purchase of 4 Easton stakes from manufacturer and using personal trekking pole for the front pole)

  Weight Backpacking Light Minimum
Same as Manufacturer Minimum but with 0.25 oz (7 g) titanium stakes and Spectra guylines

2 lb 2.3 oz (0.97 kg) measured weight (assumes using personal trekking pole for the front pole)

  Area

Total covered area: 45.0 ft2 (4.19 m2); sewn in floor is 34.3 ft2 (3.19 m2); vestibule area (beak-style) is 10.7 ft2 (1.00 m2)

  Area to Backpacking Light Minimum Weight Ratio

1.31 ft2/oz

  Dimensions

Length: 148 in (378 cm), Width: 77 / 54 in (196 / 137 cm), Height: 48 in (122 cm) tested height. Variable between 45 to 48 inches with adjustable trekking pole (Backpacking Light measured dimensions)

  Dimensions Sewn-in floor

Length: 89 in (226 cm), Width: 57 / 54 in (145 / 137 cm) (measured by Backpacking Light)

  MSRP

$290

  Options

Carbon Fiber Tent Pole (front pole) $25, 1.8 oz (52 g)
Tyvek Footprint 6.5 oz (184 g), size: 54 x 84 in (136 x 213 cm)
6 in (15 cm) Easton Stakes $2, 0.3 oz (9 g)

Performance

At just over 2 pounds and 45 square feet (floor plus vestibule), the Europa has one of the highest area to weight ratios we’ve seen in a tent. Quarters are spacious for two large adults with additional floor space and storage to spare. Two inside pockets provide storage for small items. With the vestibule open, there is storage along the side of the tent wall but under the fly. The 7.5 foot long floor provides plenty of storage area in the rear of the tent – enough for both backpacks and additional gear.

six-moon-designs-europa-single-wall-tent-review REVIEW - 3
The Europa on a spring trip along the Appalachian Trail.

The Europa is a single wall tent constructed of silicone-impregnated ripstop nylon. It uses a single aluminum hoop pole in the rear and a trekking pole in front (or an optional fixed length pole). The Europa sets up with four stakes and has the option of using two more with side guyouts. The Europa has perimeter no-see-um netting for bug protection and a front door that opens along the bottom and right side. The front mesh door stows away with Velcro tabs. In humid conditions leave the mesh pulled back if possible to reduce condensation in the tent – mesh across the door opening slows airflow a surprising amount.

The standard Europa package includes the tent body with attached floor, a generously sized silnylon tent stuff sack, and a rear hoop pole. You supply the front pole, usually a trekking pole, but a fixed-length carbon pole can be purchased from Six Moon Designs. You’ll need to supply four stakes (six if you use the side guy outs) since, astonishingly, this $290 tent does not come with stakes. We recommend using a 0.3-ounce Easton aluminum stake (available from Six Moon Designs and other suppliers) for the center guyout. Standard titanium stakes are fine for the rest of the guyouts in most situations.

The current Europa preserves the cantilevered (overhanging) front found in earlier versions. This design eases entry into the tent by moving the center pole away from the door. Additionally it provides a covered area that keeps rain out of the tent when the vestibule is open and creates a protected cooking area.

The overhanging front entry is a significant reason for the Europa’s excellent condensation resistance. Being able to leave the vestibule fully or half open in many conditions, dramatically increases airflow and reduces condensation over a tent with a closed vestibule (especially if you also roll back the Europa’s mesh door). With the vestibule open there is still plenty of room in the rear of the tent and along the sides under the fly to stow gear without need for the vestibule. The 7.5 foot length of the tent floor allows you to scoot back from the entrance a bit to stay even more out of the rain. Most times you can cook under the shelter of the overhanging front without worrying about humidity buildup in the tent and the poor ventilation caused by a closed vestibule. As a bonus, an open vestibule gives you better views and reduces claustrophobia.

six-moon-designs-europa-single-wall-tent-review REVIEW - 4
The Europa has webbing and buckle guyline adjusters on all three front guy line attachments (center and both sides). These make proper tensioning (and nighttime adjustments) very easy and eliminate annoying re-staking to increase tension. You can stay inside the shelter of the tent to make all adjustments. The front guyline adjustment is cleverly upside-down to make adjustment from inside the tent easier.

The Europa goes up in just a few minutes. The rear pole slides into a rear sleeve and is held in place by a grommet on each side. The front pole is then inserted into a grommet and erected with a single guy line. Corner guy lines are staked and tensioned. Finally the rear hoop is repositioned to even out the sidewall tension by moving it back slightly. The Europa has webbing and buckle guyline adjusters at all front guy line attachments that make proper tensioning (and nighttime adjustments) very easy. The front guy line adjustment is cleverly upside-down to make adjustment from inside the tent easier.

six-moon-designs-europa-single-wall-tent-review REVIEW - 5
The Europa has a fairly taut pitch once you get the correct pole height.

We recommend anchoring the center guy line with an Easton aluminum stake. For a similar weight, the Easton stakes are stronger and have more holding power than standard 0.25-ounce titanium skewer stakes, which is important, especially in soft soils, as the front guyline takes a lot of tension due to a very steep angle.

The Europa pitches very quickly once you have the front pole height dialed-in. This tent is very picky about front pole height and only comes reasonably taut at a narrow range of pole heights. We found it worked best around 48 inches (120 cm). If you vary the tent pitch height as the SMD literature suggests, the tent body looses some tension and the floor doesn’t hang quite right. The front tie-out angle on the Europa may be a bit too steep to apply full tension to the ridgeline.

The floating bathtub floor of the Europa is an improvement over the previous model. The floor is attached at the corners with elastic cords allowing you to achieve a taut pitch on the tent body independent of floor tension. This leaves the floor under minimal tension, which reduces punctures from sharp objects under the floor. The elastic cords raise the bathtub sides of the floor so that the tent stays drier in splashing rain and stays cleaner in dusty conditions.

six-moon-designs-europa-single-wall-tent-review REVIEW - 6
For a single walled tent, the Europa does an excellent job of controlling condensation. The front overhang is a key element since it protrudes enough that the full vestibule is not needed in many conditions. This dramatically increases airflow and reduces condensation over a tent with a closed vestibule (especially if you also roll back the mesh door). You can even cook under the shelter of the overhanging front.

In rainy conditions, the silnylon canopy of the Europa extends beyond the floor below by almost a foot, providing solid rain protection. The Europa does well with splashing rain, particularly along the sides and in the front corners where the bathtub floor and tent wall overhang do a creditable job of keeping rain out. When needed, the vestibule provides over 10 square feet of well protected storage area.

six-moon-designs-europa-single-wall-tent-review REVIEW - 7
The Europa has a large and protective vestibule but you don’t need to use it in most conditions.

The new Europa’s larger and lower-extending vestibule does a better job than previous models’ of protecting gear stored outside the tent. The vestibule still provides good ventilation. A clip attachment to the front guy line is easy to use and the beak rolls away to the sides with Velcro tabs when not in use. The center Velcro closure on the vestibule is hard to close when under proper tension.

six-moon-designs-europa-single-wall-tent-review REVIEW - 8
The Europa’s vestibule vent has a stiffener so it stays open for ventilation and keeps rain out.

We found the Europa durable enough for normal use. If you don’t pitch it on rough surfaces such as gravel or sharp sticks the Europa will give years of reliable performance in the field. We did use care when on sharp or rocky surfaces and in those conditions used a light spinnaker groundsheet under the tent floor. We also have a few reservations about the very taut front guyline. We think that reducing the guyline angle may help reduce the guyline tension while still achieving a taut ridgeline.

What’s Unique

If you’re not intending to use the Europa above tree line in intense winds it is probably the finest 2-pound two person shelter on the market. The Europa provides the best combination of a huge interior living area, storage area, amenities and condensation management that we have seen in a fully featured 2-pound tent.

What is unique about Europa is its condensation resistance. Two thirds of the inner tent walls are mesh for improved ventilation and the mesh keeps sleeping bags away from the condensing outer walls. The overhanging front of the tent also contributes to the excellent condensation resistance.

Recommendations for Improvement

six-moon-designs-europa-single-wall-tent-review REVIEW - 9
Although two sitting side by side is possible, it is cramped in the Europa. But its high center peak makes it very roomy for one to sit up. The Squall 2 has more room for two people to sit side by side.

  • The Europa has room for improvement on the tautness of its pitch. It does not get quite as taut as the Squall 2 and is more particular about front pole height. It doesn’t allow the multiple height pitching that Six Moon Designs suggests (it loses tension at lower pitch heights). We suspect that the overall tent geometry needs to be tweaked – possibly with a more catenary-like ridgeline. A less steeply sloped front tieout might also help put more tension on the ridgeline and less on the front guyline.
  • We love the overhanging front of the tent but wish it had even more overhang – as much as the previous model Europa or possibly more. This would allow rolling back the vestibule in even more inclement weather conditions.
  • The center Velcro closure on the vestibule is difficult to secure. We understand that it will be replaced with a zipper in future models.
  • The tent’s side pockets hit the floor. We suggest moving them up so they hang correctly.

Tarptent Squall 2 Tent REVIEW

Winner of the 2005 Lightitude Award for best single wall shelter, the Squall 2 improves on the classic Squall with several important updates.

Introduction

The Tarptent Squall 2 is an update of the popular Squall single wall tent. It offers full weather and bug protection in a lightweight 2 pound package. It features a floating bathtub floor that keeps the sleeping area dry while taking tension off the fabric, increasing floor durability and waterproofing. The doorway can be set up with single or dual poles, the dual pole pitch giving better entrance access and wind stability. The Squall 2 can be set up with only four stakes in just a few minutes and has simple adjusters for easy tensioning. However, it is more complex than the original and not all the design changes are perfect. How does the Squall 2 stand up to the original design?

And how does it stack up against the Six Moon Designs Europa (which gives the Squall 2 a serious run for the money)? Read Comparison: Tarptent Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Europa for a detailed discussion of the differences between these two fine tents.

What’s Good

  • At 2 pounds, it’s very light for a floored shelter with full rain and bug protection
  • Increased headroom and usable space
  • Floating bathtub floor is waterproof and durable
  • Dual trekking pole set-up opens entryway and increases wind stability
  • Beak-style vestibule offers good protection while still allowing airflow
  • Doors and beak are easily rolled up for full ventilation and views
  • New guyline adjusters are simple, lightweight, and easy to use

What’s Not So Good

  • Less wind stability when set up with a single pole
  • Front strut needs to be removed to easily fit in the tube-shaped stuff sack
  • Front vent is not very functional
  • Condensation issues in still, high humidity conditions
  • Water can pool slightly near the rear hoop

Specifications

  Year/Model

2006 Tarptent Squall 2

  Style

Two person single wall tent with optional sewn-in floor

  Fabrics

1.3 oz/yd2 (44 g/m2) silicone impregnated ripstop nylon, 1 oz/yd2 (34 g/m2) no-see-um netting

  Pole Material

Easton 7075 aluminum, 5/16 inch (8 mm) diameter

  Weight Full Package
As supplied by manufacturer with all included items

Measured weight: 2 lb 3.0 oz (0.99 kg)
Shelter 1 lb 11.5 oz (0.78 kg), 3 poles 5.4 oz (0.15 kg), 4 titanium stakes 1.5 oz (43 g), stuff sacks 0.5 oz (14 g)
Manufacturer’s specification 2 lb 3.0 oz (0.99 kg)

  Weight Manufacturer Minimum
Includes minimum number of items needed to erect tent

2 lb 0.3 oz (0.92 kg) measured weight (assumes using a trekking pole for the front pole)

  Weight Backpacking Light Minimum
Same as Manufacturer Minimum but with 0.25 oz (7 g) titanium stakes and Spectra guylines

1 lb 15.9 oz (0.90 kg) measured weight (assumes using a trekking pole for the front pole)

  Area

Total covered area: 36.0 ft2 (3.35 m2), sewn in floor is 27.9 ft2 (2.60 m2); vestibule area (beak-style): 8.1 ft2 (0.75 m2) (based on Backpacking Light measured dimensions)

  Area to Backpacking Light Minimum Weight Ratio

1.13 ft2/oz

  Dimensions

Length: 94 in (239 cm), Width: 78 / 51 in (198 / 130 cm), Height: 45 in (114 cm) variable with adjustable trekking pole (measurements by Backpacking Light)

  Dimensions Sewn-in Floor

Length: 80 in (203 cm), Width: 59.5 / 41 in (151 / 104 cm) (measured by Backpacking Light)

  MSRP

$230 with optional sewn-in floor, Floorless model is $195

  Options

Front poles are $5 for one or $9 for two (each weighs 1.8 oz (52 g), Tyvek ground sheet (usually used in floorless version) $12

Performance

The Tarptent Squall has been a favorite among ultralight backpackers for years. The updated Squall 2 won the Backpacking Light Lightitude Award for Best Single Wall Shelter in 2005, and for good reason. It has several important updates that increase its comfort and usability while maintaining much of the simplicity and aesthetics of the original.

The Tarptent Squall 2 is a single wall tent that is constructed of silicone-impregnated ripstop nylon. It uses a single hoop in the rear, a short horizontal strut pole at the front, and the option of one or two poles or trekking poles for front support. The tent features dual catenary ridgelines, as opposed to the single catenary ridgeline of the original. Like the original, the Squall 2 sets up with four stakes and has the option of using two more with side guyouts. Also like the original, the Squall 2 provides full perimeter bug netting for complete bug protection and a front door that opens in an inverted “T” and stows away with Velcro tabs.

Included with the shelter are the tent body with attached floor, silnylon tent stuff sack, rear hoop pole and front strut (both Easton 7075 aluminum), four stakes, and a silnylon stake pouch. While this tent came with titanium stakes, Tarptent now provides Easton aluminum stakes that are stronger and hold better for the same weight. Single or dual front poles aluminum poles are available for those who don’t use trekking poles.

Tarptent Squall 2 Single Wall Tent REVIEW - 1
New guyline adjusters are found on all front guyline attachments and make tensioning a breeze.

With some practice, setting up the Tarptent is possible in just a few minutes. The rear pole easily slides into a rear sleeve and is held in place by a grommet on each side. The front pole is then inserted into a grommet and erected with a single guyline. Corner guylines are staked and tensioned. Finally the rear hoop is repositioned to even out the sidewall tension by moving it back slightly. Unlike earlier Tarptents which required restaking for tension adjustments, the Squall 2 has guyline adjusters at all front guyline attachments that make proper tensioning (and nighttime adjustments) very easy.

Tarptent Squall 2 Single Wall Tent REVIEW - 2
By using adjustable trekking poles (left), headroom of the Squall 2 can be greatly increased. The dual ridgelines (right) increase headroom without decreasing wind stability (when using two poles).

At just over two pounds, the Squall 2 provides comfortable living space for two large adults. The flat top and dual ridgelines caused by the front strut increase headroom dramatically in the Squall 2 and the more vertical sidewalls add to the usable space. Unlike the original, it is now possible for two adults to sit up side by side instead of having room for only one. With the floating floor design it is also possible to increase the front height of the tent using extendable trekking poles, further increasing headroom and usable space. Two inside pockets provide storage for small items and in clear conditions, the mesh area alongside the tent outside of the bathtub floor provides tons of extra storage.

The dual ridgelines do make a difference in wind stability when compared to the original Tarptent Squall. When using only one pole, the front strut causes some side to side sway that wasn’t present in the original. However, using two poles in the front eliminates any loss of wind stability. In fact, I found that the dual poles actually increased wind stability over the original; while the Squall 2 is not a shelter for high winds, it is quite stable in moderate winds when using two front poles and the optional side guyouts.

Tarptent Squall 2 Single Wall Tent REVIEW - 3
The Squall 2 can be set up with one or two poles or trekking poles. Using two poles increases wind stability and opens the entryway. Right image shows dual front guylines which make the entryway even more open.

The floating bathtub floor of the Squall 2 is a huge improvement over previous floored models. The floor is attached at the corners with elastic cords that give the protection of a bathtub floor while adding no tension to the main tent body. The result is a floor that stays drier in splashing rain and stays cleaner in dusty conditions than in previous models. The design has adjustable tension, works perfectly, and is brilliant in its simplicity.

Tarptent Squall 2 Single Wall Tent REVIEW - 4
The floating floor design adds no tension to the outer tent, instead relying on sewn seams and attached elastic cord to give its bathtub design.

For those that prefer floorless shelters, a floorless model is still available that has bug netting that tucks underneath a ground sheet and saves 7 ounces. However, those that live in rainy environments should seriously consider the floored model because it addresses a major problem with earlier Squalls and floorless models: splashing rain.

In rainy conditions, the silnylon body of the floorless Squall 2 overlaps the ground sheet below, providing solid rain protection. When camping on hard surfaces in driving rain, though, it is difficult to keep things dry due to splashing rain, particularly along the sides and in the front corners. With earlier models of the Squall 2 (with or without a sewn in floor), it was often necessary to move all of the gear to the middle of the tent and under the middle of the beak-type vestibule. With the bathtub floor of the Squall 2, this is no longer an issue; as long as gear is inside the floor area, it will stay dry in all but the worst windblown rain conditions.

The Squall 2 also has a beak that comes lower to the ground than previous models (this became an option in 2003 and is now standard). This lower beak does a much better job of protecting gear stored outside the tent while still providing good ventilation. A clip attachment to the front guyline is easy to use and the beak rolls away to the sides with Velcro tabs when not in use.

Tarptent Squall 2 Single Wall Tent REVIEW - 5
The Tarptent Squall 2 with the Rainshadow 2 and Gossamer Gear/Tarptent Squall Classic in the background. Note the extended vestibule of the Squall 2.

Ventilation in the Squall 2 is very good for a single wall tent. In conditions with even a slight breeze, the full perimeter mesh and mesh front door provide good airflow that keeps things dry. When bugs and precipitation are not a problem, leaving the mesh doors open eliminates any possibility of condensation. In still, high-humidity conditions that require closing up the door and vestibule, such as I experienced in Washington and Newfoundland, condensation in the Squall 2 becomes more of an issue. However, moisture is easily managed – condensation that accumulates on the tent walls runs down and drips outside of the floor area (another bonus for the bathtub floor design).

Durability of the Tarptent Squall 2 was never an issue in my testing but extra care is needed when using silnylon shelters. If you keep fire away from the tent and make sure not to pitch it on rough surfaces such as gravel, a Tarptent will give many years of reliable performance in the field. My only issue is with the long, tube-shaped stuff sack that is typical of Tarptents. The tube-shape is difficult to stuff and I blew the drawstring seam when trying to insert the tent. I quickly learned to remove the front strut when stuffing the tent into the provided sack. While the system is designed for rolling rather than stuffing, I did not find this to be an easy solution either.

Tarptent Squall 2 Single Wall Tent REVIEW - 6
All Tarptents come with tube stuff sacks which are difficult to stuff, placing stress on the seams. The drawstring on the tent bag tore out quickly and needed to be repaired.

While the Tarptent Squall 2 is approaching perfection in a three-season single wall shelter, not all of the improvements are perfect. The beak found in earlier Tarptents was one piece that attached permanently at one side and attached to the other with a Velcro strip. The beak of the Squall 2, though, splits down the middle and secures in the center with a long strip of Velcro. While this gives the additional flexibility of leaving just one-half of the beak closed, it is also more difficult to neatly close because the Velcro strips have to be aligned under tension. It is also difficult to close while inside the tent. This is not a big deal but can be a little annoying at times.

Another aspect of the new beak design is the addition of a front vent. While the front corner of the tent can now be left open to aid in ventilation, the lack of a stiffened brim or flap means that the vent also allows rain to enter the vestibule area. I consider the front vent more of a work in progress than a functional vent.

Tarptent Squall 2 Single Wall Tent REVIEW - 7
Without any stiffener to protect from rain, the front vent is only usable in dry conditions but does give additional ventilation options over previous designs.

One reviewer noticed a very minor issue with the flat ridgeline – the tendency of water to pool slightly near the rear hoop. This is more of a problem after the tent has sagged slightly after heavy downpours. This slight pooling never caused any water to leak.

Tarptent Squall 2 Single Wall Tent REVIEW - 12
Some minor pooling can occur near the rear hoop with a small amount of tent sagging.

What’s Unique

The Tarptent Squall 2 is nearly perfect as a three-season single wall shelter. Several design improvements such as the dual pole/dual ridgeline, floating bathtub floor, adjustable front guylines, and extended beak add features and versatility for a weight penalty of less than 1/2 pound over previous designs. It is a marvelous tent that definitely deserves its 2005 Lightitude Award for Single Wall Tents.

Recommendations for Improvement

While the Squall 2 is nearly perfect, I would like to see a design change with the vestibule and front vent. Going back to the previous design where the beak was permanently attached to the side is one idea. Another possibility is to use a wire-stiffened brim or a vent support to make the vent fully functional in all conditions.

I would also like to see the tube-shaped stuff sack change into a shorter, rounder sack with a separate pole stuff sack or an integrated pole sleeve. It is a hassle to remove the aluminum strut, which is necessary to relieve stress on the seams of the stuff sack. I quickly ditched the included sack in favor of a different shaped bag. However, many people seem to love the tube design for easy packing so this may be only a personal issue.

Visor Buff Evo-2 Hat SPOTLITE REVIEW

A versatile ultralight outdoor cap from Buff. Is it funky or cool – you decide.

Overview

The 1.5 ounce Visor Buff Evo-2 cap is made of Coolmax Extreme fabric with a neoprene bill, is reversible, and provides 98% UV protection. The cap is claimed to be one of the most versatile pieces of performance headwear for the outdoor athlete. We aren’t outdoor athletes, but we gave the caps a go for hot and cool weather backpacking.

The Visor Buff is cleverly made of two layers of Coolmax Extreme fabric, so it’s reversible with a different pattern on each side as our photos show. We had a hard time deciding for ourselves whether the cap is funky or cool, so we will let you decide that for yourself.

Visor Buff Evo-2 Hat  SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
We tested the Visor Buff Evo-2 cap with the “Decode” pattern on Will’s cap and the “Uphill” pattern on Janet’s cap. The cap is reversible, so Will’s is green on one side and yellow on the other, and Janet’s is dark blue on one side and mostly while on the other.

Coolmax Extreme is a four-channel fiber that looks like four tubes fused together. It is claimed to pull moisture away from the skin, dry faster, and thermo-regulate faster than any other fabric. That’s a lot of claims. In practice we found that the color of the cap seemed to have a bigger influence on its comfort level than all that fabric technology. Simply put, when we wore the light colored side of the cap out, it was cooler to wear in the sun compared to wearing the dark colored side out. In hot weather (80+ °F), Will had sweat rolling down his forehead. For hot weather, we would definitely recommend getting this cap in white, and the only near-white color currently available is the reverse side of the “Uphill” pattern.

The bill is made of lightweight neoprene foam. For its small size it actually provides good shading of the face and reduces glare. It’s also very compressible, so the hat can easily be stuffed into a pant or pack pocket. One interesting anomaly about the neoprene bill is it produced a distinct rubber smell when we hiked in intense sunlight and 80+ °F temperatures.

At cooler temperatures (40-70 °F), we found the Visor Buff to be quite comfortable to wear as a hiking cap. The fabric has good lateral stretch, so it expanded to fit our heads very well without feeling tight. In windy weather, the cap stayed on, and it was easy to layer a stretch cap over it.

For hiking in moderate temperatures, we really liked the cap’s thermo-regulation, and found it quite comfortable to wear on long uphill grades while carrying a backpack. It also handled a light shower fairly well while hiking; apparently our heads generated enough heat to drive off the moisture.

The cap’s 98% ultraviolet protection is a plus, but of course that is only for the area covered. One main disadvantage of wearing a billed cap for hiking is that your ears and neck are fully exposed, so it’s important to slather those areas with sunscreen.

Overall, the Visor Buff Evo-2 tended to grow on us. It’s very lightweight, versatile, and compressible. Our preference would be a light color for the strong Southwest sunlight we frequently hike in, but of course a darker color would be better in northern climates. A useful option would be to offer the cap with a really lightweight detachable skirt. Now that would be really funky!

Specifications and Features

  • Manufacturer: Original Buff (www.buff.us)
  • Product: Visor Buff Evo-2 hat
  • Fabric: Coolmax Extreme polyester microfiber, neoprene bill
  • Weight: 1.5 oz (43 g)
  • Sizes: One size fits most
  • Features: Coolmax Extreme fabric, glare-shielding black neoprene bill, reversible with a different pattern on each side, 98% UV protection
  • MSRP: $26

Hilleberg Kaitum Tent REVIEW

With a massive total area of 58.3 square feet and a weight of less than 6 pounds, the Hilleberg Kaitum delivers serious livable space for the weight. But how does it stand up to the rough alpine and winter environments it was designed for?

Introduction

The Hilleberg Kaitum is a tunnel tent that delivers excellent livable space for its sub-6-pound weight. With dual doors and vestibules, an effective ventilation system, and serious storm and wind protection, it is a tent that will help you not only survive the storm but enjoy your time there. But is there a weakness to the design of the Kaitum?

What’s Good

  • Total area to weight ratio of 0.64 ft2/oz is outstanding for a bomber tent and a sub-6-pound weight is very respectable for a tent in this class
  • Vertical sidewalls offer excellent usable space
  • Dual doors and dual 13 square foot vestibules are great for two climbers getting ready on summit days or having separate areas for gear storage and cooking
  • Eight V-guylines and 10 stakeout points provide rock solid wind stability in the highest winds
  • Ventilation system is very effective in humid conditions or when cooking
  • Excellent product quality and light, durable fabrics

What’s Not So Good

  • Tunnel design creates a flat top that can pile with snow and needs to be cleared often during heavy snowfall
  • Not cheap at $595, but in the ballpark for a bomber tent of this quality
  • Requires the use of multiple stakes and guylines for a strong pitch
  • Overall length of nearly 14 feet makes it difficult to pitch in tight quarters

Specifications

  Year/Model

2006 Hilleberg Kaitum

  Style

Two-person double wall bomber tent

  Fabrics

Rainfly: 1.47 oz/yd2 (50 g/m2) Kerlon 1200 silicone nylon
Inner tent: 1.03 oz/yd2 (35 g/m2) nylon
Floor: 2.65 oz/yd2 (90 g/m2) PU-coated nylon

  Pole Material

DAC Featherlite aluminum, 3/8 in (9 mm) diameter

  Weight Full Package
As supplied by manufacturer with all included items

Measured weight: 6 lb 2 oz (2.78 kg); tent body (including attached guylines) 72.1 oz (2.46 kg), 3 poles 17.6 oz (498 g), 16 stakes 6.7 oz (190 g), 3 stuff sacks 2.2 oz (63 g)

Manufacturer’s specification: 5 lbs 15 oz (2.7 kg)

  Weight Manufacturer Minimum
Includes minimum number of items needed to erect tent

5 lb 10.4 oz (2.57 kg) measured weight

Manufacturer’s specification 5 lbs 8 oz (2.5 kg)

  Area

Floor area: 32.3 ft2 (3.0 m2), vestibule area: 2 x 13 ft2 = 26 ft2 (2 x 1.2 m2 = 2.4 m2), total area: 58.3 ft2 (5.4 m2)

  Floor and Vestibule Area to Minimum Weight Ratio

0.64 ft2/oz

  Dimensions

Inner length: 87 in (220 cm), Inner width: 55 in (140 cm), Inner height: 40 in (100 cm), Overall length: 167 in (420 cm)

  MSRP

$595

  Options

Footprint – $50, Pole holders (for pitching the inner tent only) – $1.80, Extra pole set (for extreme conditions) – $85

Performance

The Hilleberg Kaitum is a fine example of the Scandinavian tunnel design, using three DAC Featherlite aluminum poles and stakes for non-freestanding support. The tunnel design minimizes the weight and length of poles required. This saves a lot of weight compared to other bomber tents while still providing good storm worthiness. It uses a blend of proprietary Hilleberg fabrics including Kerlon 1200 silicone nylon for the outer tent and more abrasion resistant PU-coated nylon for the floor. The package includes the tent body, poles with one repair sleeve, 16 stakes (eight V-shaped Viper and eight needle-type Square stakes), and three stuff sacks for the tent, poles, and stakes.

Over 30 years ago, Hilleberg was the first company to produce a commercial tent that had linked inner and outer tents and the Kaitum is the latest example of this design. To pitch the Kaitum, you first stake out one end of the outer tent. Poles (one is longer for the middle and is marked) are inserted into sleeves in the outer tent, placed in plastic pole pockets, and tightened. The tent is then pulled into shape by pulling at the opposite end and staking it to achieve a minimum pitch. Eight guylines and a total of 10 stakeouts are available to ensure a bomber pitch – using the side guylines is recommended for wind stability and increased interior space. Guylines and end stakeout points are adjustable for a taut pitch. The process of pitching the Kaitum can easily be done in less than five minutes, even in moderate winds and when wearing gloves.

I didn’t mention pitching the inner tent because, like most Hilleberg designs, the inner tent is attached to the outer tent via elastic toggles and the two are pitched simultaneously. The beauty of this design is that the inner tent is fully protected by the fly during setup in pouring rain or during a snowstorm. The inner tent can easily be detached from the outer fly, allowing you to move sections of the inner tent out of the way for increased vestibule space. The inner tent can also be completely detached. With this system, the inner tent can be carried separately from a wet outer tent to keep it dry, or left at home completely for a bomber floorless shelter.

With a set of Hilleberg’s Pole Holders ($1.80) it is possible to attach the poles directly to the inner tent, allowing the inner tent to be pitched by itself. This adds versatility, making the Kaitum more comfortable to use in warm conditions, and the water-resistant nylon of the inner tent stands up well to an occasional sprinkle. With a cost of only $1.80, I think the Pole Holders should be included with the tent.

Hilleberg Kaitum Bomber Tent REVIEW - 1
Kaitum details: the nylon/mesh doors easily tuck out of the way (left), and adjustable pole pockets accept dual pole sets in extreme conditions (right).

Other usable features include four interior pockets, an adjustable tension clothesline that runs the length of the inner tent, dual nylon/mesh zippered doors, a large vent at each end, and two large vestibules. An optional footprint ($50) is available.

For truly extreme conditions the pole sleeves and pole tensioner cups are wide enough to fit an additional pole set ($85). Despite serious winter storms and wind gusts over 60 mph, I never had a need for the dual-pole option but it may be useful in brutal conditions such as winter Arctic treks and the like.

Hilleberg Kaitum Bomber Tent REVIEW - 2
With an overall length of nearly 14 feet, the Hilleberg Kaitum is a mothership among tents.

The Hilleberg Kaitum is a very long tent, measuring nearly 14 feet in overall length (over twice the length of an Integral Designs MK1 Lite). While this excludes the tent from being pitched in tight spots, the tradeoff is an incredible amount of living space for its less than 6 pounds of weight.

The inner tent is long enough for climbers well over 6 feet tall sleeping end to end and is wide enough to be comfortable with high-loft down bags. In a pinch, the Kaitum could reasonably accommodate a third climber, although not very comfortably. With an inner tent area of 32.3 square feet, the Kaitum never feels cramped. Further, the nearly-vertical sidewalls maximize usable space and the interior height (40 inches) is tall enough to sit up and move around without sacrificing the tent’s ability to deflect side gusts. A slightly taller center pole makes the tent more spacious in the middle while also improving fabric tension, rain shedding, and creating a more aerodynamic wind profile.

Hilleberg Kaitum Bomber Tent REVIEW - 3
The tunnel design provides nearly vertical sidewalls and the vestibule can be easily rolled out of the way for excellent views.

The dual doors and vestibules are outstanding features of the Kaitum. Each vestibule measures 13 square feet for a total area of 26 square feet, nearly doubling the overall area of the tent. With side-entry doors on the vestibules, it’s easy to enter and exit the tent without tripping over gear or stoves and the vestibules can be easily rolled away for excellent views. While I initially thought the dual vestibules would be overkill, I quickly saw their utility: on a gear-intensive climbing trip, we each had our own personal closet and door, making organization and early morning prep fast and easy, and on winter trips we used one vestibule for storage and the other as a dedicated cooking area. During a winter climb that ended in a torrential downpour, all five guys were able to spread out in the tent with feet in the vestibules of the Kaitum for a game of cards, turning a miserable trip into great fun. I LOVE the dual vestibules.

Hilleberg Kaitum Bomber Tent REVIEW - 4
When a winter climb was rained out, the Hilleberg Kaitum became headquarters to a five-person card game by sticking feet into the dual vestibules. When the weather turns bad, the Kaitum is very comfortable to live in.

The Hilleberg Kaitum features two large zippered vents, one on each end. A 20-inch wide wired awning covers each vent and has its own guyline that attaches to the vent at three points. The large 17 inch wide by 14 inch tall zippered vent flap can be opened partway or rolled at the bottom and secured with a toggle. Even when fully closed, the upper 7 inches of the flap (made of a tightly woven nylon mesh) ensures that there is always some airflow without allowing any water or spindrift to enter the tent. The inner tent doors are dual ripstop nylon/no-see-um mesh, allowing you to regulate airflow into the inner tent. The doors zip almost completely off and conveniently tuck neatly into the interior pockets.

To avoid condensation in the Kaitum, it is important to use the ventilation options. When closing up the tent completely, I did experience significant condensation on the inner tent. However, by cracking the outside vents and the inner nylon doors, the cross-tent airflow quickly dried things out. By fully opening the system, it is possible to have a strong cross-wind breeze; this was especially helpful during a winter trip on Mt. Hood in Oregon when we were able to hang damp clothes on the clothesline and dry them out through the night (yes- actually DRY them!).

A nice feature of the water-resistant inner tent is that any condensed water that splashes from the wet outer tent easily beads up and runs down, keeping the inner tent totally dry. The tradeoff is that the fabric of the inner tent doesn’t breathe quite as well as other nylon fabrics, sometimes leading to condensation on the inner walls that can freeze and “snow” on you when hitting the tent walls. Again, by leaving the vents open a bit, the steady airflow cuts down on this condensation dramatically.

Hilleberg Kaitum Bomber Tent REVIEW - 5
Dual 13 square foot vestibules with side entrance doors provide tons of storage space or a dedicated cooking vestibule – VERY nice in stormy conditions. Dual vents offer good cross ventilation for stove exhaust and condensation-resistance.

The V-guylines are very effective at providing even tension on the side walls of the tent and give double the attachment points for extra security. When pitching the Kaitum, I typically used all eight guylines plus the four stakeout points at the end for a total of twelve stakes. With this setup, it is easy to achieve a drum-tight tension that stands up well to high winds and is extremely secure. During winter storms, the Kaitum didn’t flinch with wind gusts over 60 mph. When winds hit the vestibule ends of the tent, they spilled over and were hardly felt inside the tent. Similar winds hitting the side walls occasionally produced a loud “rumbling” sound which was caused by vibration of the taut sidewalls, but wind spilled over the top causing no problems other than a little noise. I would fully trust the Hilleberg Kaitum in windy conditions that exceed those found during testing.

Hilleberg Kaitum Bomber Tent REVIEW - 6
V-guylines are separately adjustable on the top or the bottom and add tremendous wind stability.

Snowstorms that bring serious accumulations of snow, especially the wet variety, highlight the compromise of the tunnel design: a flat roof. While the roof of the Kaitum is slightly angled, allowing it to quickly shed rain and sleet, it allows snow to pile much more quickly than wedge or dome-style tents. During times of high snowfall, such as the foot of wet, heavy snow that dumped on the tent during one storm, it was important to frequently slap the sides of the tent to clear accumulated snow. This is typically not a big deal and worth the tradeoff of lighter weight and better usable space that comes with a tunnel design. However, if left alone in a major storm there is a real possibility of accumulations that can lead to ceiling sag and, in the worst conditions, pole failure and ceiling collapse. In Washington we have some of the greatest snow accumulations in the country and after several major storms in the Kaitum, I am very comfortable with its performance; that said, I wouldn’t leave it alone for several hours during a major storm.

I enjoyed living with the Kaitum during conditions that delivered heavy snow, high winds, frozen rain, torrential downpours, windblown sleet, and hail that was painful to stand in. Despite these conditions, the Hilleberg showed no durability issues and looks as new as the day I got it. All materials used to build this tent are top quality.

Sweden-based Hilleberg is a family-owned and operated business and each of their tents are built by hand at their factory in Estonia. Each tent includes a sewn-in label that says who built the tent – mine says, “made by Sirje Hansen,” and I can tell you that his workmanship is top-notch and on-par with the two other Hilleberg tents I’ve had the joy of using. Sure, $595 is a lot to pay for a tent, but in the case of the Kaitum, you certainly get a lot for your money and will have a tent to last many seasons.

What’s Unique

The package of dual doors, dual vestibules, effective ventilation system, outstanding usable space for the weight, solid wind stability, and good storm protection make the Hilleberg Kaitum a bomber tent that is a joy to live with in the hardest winter and alpine conditions.

Recommendations for Improvement

For those looking for a tent that can handle greater snow loads, Hilleberg and other manufacturers make wedge and dome tents that fit the bill. However, if you are willing to make the compromise of snow load maintenance for lighter weight, better usable space, and a giant living and vestibule area, the Kaitum delivers a nearly-perfect design. I’m not a fan of needle stakes and would have preferred titanium skewers or Easton aluminum pegs which are stronger, lighter, and easier on the hands. Also, for a tent at this price, it would be nice if the $1.80 Pole Holders were included. Besides these nitpicks, though, I wouldn’t change a thing.

Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian Backpack REVIEW

If you’re looking for a lightweight backpack to carry 25 to 35 pound loads, this is one you gotta check out. It rocks!

Introduction

Due in September 2006, the Nimbus Meridian joins Granite Gear’s Light Backpack series that is designed to carry a sizeable load with comfort. This pack is a thru-hikers’ delight, as demonstrated by Justin Lichter’s odyssey across North America, carrying it 8000 miles (so far). It’s also dead on for the lightweight backpacker. This remarkable pack is lighter than most of the competition in its class, yet it’s durable, loaded with usable features, and comfortably carries a substantial load.

What’s Good

  • Light weight for its volume and weight carrying capacity
  • Lightweight composite frame is flexible and effectively transfers weight
  • Suspension system easily adjusts for a perfect fit
  • Firm, comfortable shoulder harness and hipbelt
  • Soft foam backpanel covered with Schoeller Dynamic fabric
  • Top lid removes easily and converts to a fanny pack with its own waist belt
  • Top pocket is removable to reduce pack weight by 7.7 ounces
  • Lots of attachment options
  • Rugged Riri water-resistant zippers operate smoothly
  • Full-height zippered access to the main compartment
  • Lightweight yet durable fabrics

What’s Not So Good

  • Lower side compression straps wrap over the side pockets
  • No hipbelt pockets (but accessory pockets are available)

Specifications

  Manufacturer

Granite Gear

  Year/Model

2006 Nimbus Meridian

  Style

Internal frame, top loading, drawstring closure with top compression strap, floating top pocket

  Volume

Size Regular Torso tested, 3800 ci (62 L)

  Weight

3 lb 9.4 oz (1.63 kg) measured weight; manufacturer’s specification 3 lb 8 oz (1.59 kg)

  Fabrics

Main body is 210d PU-coated Cordura nylon and 70d silicone/urethane-coated hybrid nylon ripstop; pockets, backpanel, and inside of hipbelt are Schoeller Dynamic stretch-woven; Hypalon reinforcements

  Frame

TopoFlex molded composite framesheet; shoulder strap height is fully adjustable with stainless steel screws and grommets

  Features

Floating top lid that converts to a fanny pack with its own waist belt, 10-inch extension collar with drawstring closure, four side and one top compression straps, full-height zippered access to the main compartment, Riri AquaZip zippers, two large stretch-woven side pockets, front cradle with two daisy chains and accessory straps, two ice axe loops, 3-liter hydration sleeve with tie-down system and two ports, haul loop, load lifters, hipbelt stabilizers, sternum strap, reflective strips on front and shoulder straps

  Options

A variety of accessory pockets are available that attach to the hipbelt, shoulder straps, and pack body

  Volume To Weight Ratio

67.9 ci/oz size Regular Torso (based on 3800 ci and a measured weight of 56 oz)

  Comfortable Load Carrying Capacity

35 lb (16 kg) estimated comfortable load for an average person carrying the pack all day

  Carry Load to Pack Weight Ratio

9.7 (based on 35 lb and a measured weight of 3.6 lb)

  MSRP

$250 US

Overview

The new Nimbus Meridian combines many of Granite Gear’s proven load-carrying and comfort technologies with a new feature set, all focused on the needs of the serious thru-hiker or lightweight backpacker.

Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian Backpack  REVIEW  -1
You might say that the Nimbus Meridian has already been around for a while! This is Justin Lichter’s pack, which has 8000 miles on it so far, and 2000 more to go (see Justin’s photo essay, "The Great Divide Trail" in Backpacking Light print magazine, issue number 3).

Before I get into the technical details, let’s get familiar with the Nimbus Meridian. At 3800 cubic inches and 3.6 pounds, it’s just the right size for a lightweight backpacker who wants to camp and eat well, or the thru-hiker who wants to extend the distance between re-supplies. The following photo gallery provides some close-up views so you can see the pack’s design and features.

Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian Backpack  REVIEW  - 2
The Nimbus Meridian is a top-loader (top left) with a floating top pocket, but it has a full-height front zipper (left of center) that provides excellent access into the main pack body. The front has a large cradle for attaching a tent or other gear. The backpanel (top right) has thick soft padding covered with Schoeller Dynamic fabric that is water repellent. The shoulder straps and hipbelt are also well padded. The hipbelt pockets are an accessory (1.4 oz/45 ci/$19 each). Each side (bottom left) has a large stretch-woven pocket and two compression straps. The top view (bottom right) shows the pack’s extension collar rolled down and secured with a top compression strap. The top pocket easily detaches and has its own waist belt so it can be used as a fanny pack.

Performance

Frame and Suspension

It would be hard not to get a perfect fit with this pack. The Nimbus Meridian comes in two frame sizes (regular fits 18-22 inch torsos; short fits 14-18 inch torsos), each frame has five positions to adjust shoulder strap height, and there are four shoulder strap sizes and four hipbelt sizes available – for both men and women. Overall, this allows adjustment for torso lengths of 14 to 22 inches, chest circumference of 27 to 52 inches, and waist circumference of 26 to 42 inches.

As the name implies, this pack is based on Granite Gear’s Nimbus suspension system. Its molded composite (thermoplastic) framesheet is reinforced with vinyl ester and glass fibers. The thin framesheet is lightweight, vertically stiff, and laterally flexible. This means it will support a heavy load and transfer weight to the hipbelt, yet it is flexible enough to allow the load lifters to pull the load against your back and twist with your movements.

Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian Backpack  REVIEW  - 3
Granite Gear’s Nimbus suspension system (top left, removed from the pack) uses a lightweight molded composite framesheet that is vertically stiff and laterally flexible. Shoulder straps are available in two widths: trim and wide. Five lines of holes in the framesheet (top right) allow the shoulder straps to be mounted at different heights and widths. The hipbelt attaches to the bottom of the framesheet. By selecting the proper pack size (regular or short) and hole set on the framesheet, the Nimbus suspension allows you perfectly match your torso length. The shoulder straps (bottom left) attach to a backing plate with stainless steel screws, and pivot freely when the screws are tight. With the framesheet in the pack (lower right), only the top is exposed; Hypalon flaps protect clothing from the screw heads.

I tested the Nimbus Meridian on lightweight backpacking trips over a 6-month period, carrying loads ranging from 22 to 32 pounds. It was extremely comfortable to carry under all conditions, with volume and weight-carrying capacity to spare. To see what it would do at the high end, I loaded the pack up with 2-liter bottles of water and day hiked with it with weight ranging from 45 to 30 pounds. It carried the freight and put the weight on my hips. Wide shoulder straps are available for carrying heavier loads. Although the Nimbus Meridian can comfortably carry more weight for a strong person, I estimated its comfortable load carrying capacity for an average person at 35 pounds.

Features and Utility

The Nimbus Meridian has excellent attachment capability, although it is not designed for winter trips (no shovel pocket, crampon pad, or ski loops). Compression straps or accessory straps are provided on the sides, front, and top pocket for attaching gear or extra pockets to the outside of the pack.

Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian Backpack  REVIEW-4
It’s easy to attach gear to the outside of the Nimbus Meridian, using accessory straps on the top pocket or compression straps on the sides (left), or a cradle on the front (middle) with accessory straps. Granite Gear also offers a variety of detachable accessory pockets (right) that can be attached to numerous places on the pack.

Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian Backpack  REVIEW-5
The Nimbus Meridian does not come with standard hipbelt pockets like many packs in its class, but Granite Gear does offer some really nice accessory pockets (left, 1.4 oz/45 ci/$19 each) that easily and solidly attach to the hipbelt. The pockets are padded and have a water-resistant zipper – perfect for your electro-gadgets or other small items you want handy and protected. The lower photo shows hipbelt and backpanel padding with Schoeller Dynamic surface fabric.

Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian Backpack  REVIEW-6
Inside (left), there is a 3-liter hydration sleeve with an attached bungee system to stabilize the weight. I personally preferred to put my hydration bladder in a side pocket so it was more convenient to re-fill. I found the full-height frontpanel zipper (right) to be a really handy feature. It allowed me to conveniently access pack contents on the trail or in camp. I routinely used the pack as a pillow, and the zipper allowed me to easily arrange the contents to get the right height and softness.

Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian Backpack  REVIEW-7
The top pocket easily detaches from the pack and functions as an excellent fanny pack (left). It has its own waist strap and stabilizer straps that store in a sleeve on the underside of the pocket. Two accessory straps allow attachment of a tent on top of the pack (shown earlier), or a gear bag to the front of the fanny pack (right). The zippers on the top pocket and frontpanel are Riri AquaZip, which are very durable and water-resistant.

Assessment

I can easily say that the new Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian is my favorite lightweight internal frame medium volume backpack. It is made of lightweight durable fabrics, adjusts to achieve a perfect fit, has plenty of volume and attachment options, has a flexible frame and harness system that accommodates my movements, and comfortably carries a heavy load. With all these features and capability, it still weighs well under 4 pounds.

By comparison, the 2006 Osprey Aether 60 has similar volume and most of the features and utility of the Meridian, but it does not have frontpanel access or a convertible top pocket, and now weighs over 4 pounds. The Mountainsmith TrekLight AT-55 has similar volume, lots of outside pockets, and a capable suspension system, but its top pocket to fanny pack conversion is a bust and the pack weighs even more. The Ultralight Adventure Equipment (ULA) Catalyst pack has similar volume and weighs 14 ounces less, but it lacks a top pocket, adjustable torso length, and zippered access to the main compartment. Overall, compared to the competition, the Nimbus Meridian offers a heck of a lot of features and usability, while still keeping weight at only 3.6 pounds. It costs $25-$50 more than the other packs mentioned, but it is still a good value considering its extra features and comfort.

What’s Unique

The Nimbus suspension system is lightweight, yet is still highly supportive and flexible, and allows direct torso length adjustment. With two framesheet sizes, five shoulder strap height adjustments, four shoulder strap sizes (plus an extra wide option), two shoulder strap widths, and four hipbelt sizes (for both men and women), the Nimbus Meridian will adjust to fit most anyone and carry heavy loads. Also, the Riri AquaZip zippers are a nice touch; they are both durable and water-resistant.

Recommendations for Improvement

For once, I have little to say in this section. The lower side compression straps tighten over the side pockets, but I did not find it to be a significant issue. I either left the straps loose or snugged them up over the filled pockets to retain the contents. However, the straps could be routed behind the pockets.

Balloonbed Inflatable Sleeping Pad REVIEW

Amazingly light and compact sleeping pad. Just be prepared for giggles from your friends.

balloonbed REVIEW - 1
The Balloonbed ready to assemble with shell, pump, and 7 balloons.

Introduction

My wife laughed at it. My kids giggled. Another Backpacking Light editor (whose identity I’ve sworn to protect) even amusedly called it "hilarious." However, I like the Balloonbed. What other product gives you a two-inch thick sleeping pad for under three ounces? If your hiking partners tease you about it, just stare them down while wearing a balloon-animal hat!

What’s Good

  • Extremely light
  • Excellent comfort/weight ratio
  • Very low pack volume
  • Ability to use spare balloons to amuse your friends
  • Can be filled with helium and lashed to your pack to really cut down packweight

What’s Not So Good

  • Narrow (although a thicker/wider version is available using larger balloons)
  • Balloons occasionally burst
  • Time consuming set up
  • Difficult to tie balloons with cold fingers
  • Balloons are a one-time-use consumable item

Specifications

  Manufacturer

Balloonbed

  Year/Model

2006 Balloonbed

  Shell Material

1.2 oz/yd 2 (42 g/m 2) anti-static coated ripstop nylon

  Balloons

Qualatex 260Q (includes 25)

  Shell Weight

2.2 oz (63 g)

  Pump Weight

0.5 oz (14 g)

  Stuff Sack Weight

0.2 oz (5 g)

  Balloon Weight

0.5 oz (15 g) for 8 balloons, including 1 spare, sufficient for one night

  Total Weight

2.9 oz (82 g) plus 0.5 oz (15 g) per night

  Inflated Dimensions

Typical (inflated) Thickness: 1.7 in (4.3 cm); Length: 47 in (119 cm); Width: 18 in (46 cm)

  MSRP

Balloonbed: £20.00 (about $38); 25 extra 260Q balloons: £3.75 (about $7)

Performance

balloonbed REVIEW - 2
Packed up, the Balloonbed is about the same size as a cook pot made from a 24 ounce beverage can.

Setup

Setting up the Balloonbed is straightforward. With a little practice, each balloon can be pumped up in less than a minute, though if you’re too enthusiastic, it’s possible to overinflate them so they’re too long for the shell and difficult to tie off. A couple of practice balloons are advised to achieve just the right size. Tying them off is probably the hardest part – especially if you have cold fingers. It helps if you pinch the balloon near the opening while inflating. This leaves a short, uninflated section that is easier to tie into a knot. To pack up the Balloonbed, pop each balloon with the included brass safety pin, stow the used balloons so they can be packed out and discarded, and roll up the shell into the stuffsack.

balloonbed REVIEW - 3
The Balloonbed pump. It takes about 75 pumps to inflate a balloon. The whole pad can be inflated and assembled in about 7 minutes.

Comfort

Comfort is certainly subjective, but I found the Balloonbed to be more comfortable than closed-cell pads such as the Gossamer Gear Nightlight and Therm-a-Rest Ridgerest pads, but less comfortable than a one inch thick self-inflating pad. Two issues affect comfort: First, when inflated to fit the shell, the balloons are much firmer than you’d imagine. Second, there is a space between each balloon that can be a bit uncomfortable depending on your position. I was more comfortable sleeping on my side than sleeping on my back. Of course, both size and firmness are dependent on how much you pump up the balloons.

balloonbed REVIEW - 4
It is easiest to put the pump on the ground and push down with body weight. (As you can see from my toasted forearm, the Balloonbed is not a good substitute for sunscreen.)

Warmth

The Balloonbed is significantly warmer when used with a conventional mummy bag rather than a quilt. With a quilt, the space between balloons creates a channel that is susceptible to drafts. Conversely, this same space allows the insulation on the bottom of a mummy bag to loft between the balloons, providing additional warmth. Because the balloons themselves have no internal insulation, they are prone to convective currents and are not very effective insulators. However, the sandwich of the top and bottom shell layers plus the balloons creates a honeycomb of air cells to somewhat break up the convective currents. The end result is that the Balloonbed is warmer than you’d expect, especially when used with a bag containing bottom insulation – just don’t try it on snow.

balloonbed REVIEW - 5
About 7 minutes later, the pad is ready to go. Note the space between balloons – this affects both warmth and comfort. (Balloons are shown protruding for illustration only. They slide completely into the protective shell when properly inflated.)

Durability

The balloons are actually much more durable than you might think, but they do fail occasionally. I’ve seen three types of balloon failures. The most common is a burst during inflation or insertion into the shell, perhaps due to static electricity. The second is a "bump in the night" from a sharp object (yes, this does get everyone’s attention in camp). The final one is just a slow leak from either a pinhole defect or an improperly tied knot in a balloon that is discovered flat in the morning . If you are using the Balloonbed in a multi-night base camp, most of the balloons will generally stay inflated for several days.  A few seem to deflate much sooner – again, perhaps due to pinholes or bad knots.  Expect a few failures and bring a few extra balloons.

When used on the ground, the pump valve is prone to clogging with debris. I’ve always been able to shake it out without disassembling, but I worry about pump failure. If you have lungs of steel, maybe you could leave the pump at home and save half an ounce.

One nice consequence of the modular design with disposable balloons is that a puncture is not catastrophic. Small rips and tears in the shell won’t cause the pad to fail. Popped balloons are easily replaced.

Replacement balloons are available from the manufacturer. They are also available at novelty shops and various places online for around $6 per hundred. Balloonbed claims the size 260Q balloons made by Qualatex to be higher quality than the generic variety.

What’s Unique

The Balloonbed is the most compact sleeping pad commercially available. It’s also the lightest for its thickness, but that’s not what is most unique – come on, how many other pads are made out of balloons?

Recommendations for Improvement

  • Devise a reusable air bladder
  • Include a spare pump
  • Stencil instructions for making balloon animals on the shell

Integral Designs Hot Socks SPOTLITE REVIEW

So much warmth in such a light package.

Overview

At only 4-5 ounces per pair (depending on size), the ID Hot Socks are a highly versatile piece of gear for your kit. We used them winter camping in igloos we built, on a spring canoe trip, and on numerous backpacking trips and found them to be downright habit-forming. They hit a perfect balance of lightweight, warmth, and durability.

Integral Designs Hot Socks  SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
The Integral Designs Hot Socks. The right one is turned inside out.

The Hot Socks have a Pertex P565 shell, which is a 1.85 oz/yd2 calendared microfiber with high abrasion resistance and a DWR finish. Insulation is 4 oz/yd2 Primaloft Sport, which provides 0.5 inch of loft and a warmth to weight ratio (clo) of 0.65. Primaloft Sport insulation is a blend of micro and macro denier fibers to maximize softness, durability and compressibility. The backpanel is Powerstretch fleece to keep the socks snug around the ankles. The sole is 330 denier Cordura nylon.

It’s hard to find so much warmth in such a light package, especially in footwear. We found it handy to size them up a little (they’re available in four sizes) so we could wear heavy socks inside them when more warmth was needed.

We wore the Hot Socks in our sleeping bags on spring and fall backpacking trips in the mountains, and winter camping in the Southern Utah canyon country. After hiking in snow or slop all day, it was a pleasure to get the wet boots off and put the Hot Socks on. An effective combination for wearing them around camp is to wear Tyvek overboots over the Hot Socks to keep them clean and dry. The combination is very lightweight and worked especially well on wet ground or packed snow.

With their Cordura nylon soles, the Hot Socks should make ideal lightweight hut booties (not tested).

Winter Use

We wore the ID Hot Socks with wool socks inside them while winter camping in igloos we built. Since an igloo only cools down to about 30 °F at night (which is warm by winter camping standards), we had no problems with feet getting cold while lounging around in the igloo, or wearing them as nighttime footwear in our sleeping bags. They also worked fine for extra-igloo activities with insulated overboots over them, or Tyvek overboots over them for shorter durations on packed snow.

Integral Designs Hot Socks  SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
The ID Hot Socks worn over heavy wool socks (left) while winter camping in an igloo. The soles are coated 330 denier Cordura nylon, so they can be worn on packed snow (right) or in a hut.

However, the Hot Socks don’t provide enough insulation for serious mountaineering in sub-zero conditions. For that we recommend a thicker insulated bootie inside an insulated shell overboot such as those sold by Forty Below.

Specifications and Features

  • Manufacturer: Integral Designs (www. integraldesigns.com)
  • Sizes: Small 6-7, Medium 8-9, Large 10-11, X Large 12-13
  • Features: Breathable Pertex shell, durable Primaloft insulation, durable Cordura sole
  • Included: Socks, silnylon stuff sack
  • Weight: Measured weight size Small 4.1 oz, size XL 5 oz; manufacturer specification size Small 4.2 oz, size XL 4.9 oz
  • MSRP: $40

Sipping the Waters: Techniques for Selecting Untreated Backcountry Water for Drinking

Drinking untreated backcountry water can make you sick – but choosing your drinking spots intelligently can greatly reduce that risk. Here, a doctor shares the methods that have kept him healthily “sipping the waters” for the past 20 years.

Introduction

Sipping the Waters: Techniques for Drinking Untreated Backcountry Water - 1
A hot May day in the Indian Peaks Wilderness just to the west of Boulder, Colorado.

June, 2006. My friend Padre is a minister, a cleric from Ohio, and we get together most years for a backpack in the high country. As we load up packs at the trailhead for the Never Summer Mountains in Rocky Mountain National Park, I ask Padre if we dare leave the water filter behind. We’ve decided to use only unfiltered water on this trip, but he says we should carry the filter just in case. So I toss it in my pack. Throughout the trip we enjoy cold and very pure natural waters – with no gut wrenching regrets later – and the filter remains in the pack, unused.

I’ve often felt a nice connection to the natural world that comes from reaching right down into a stream and sipping handfuls of icy water on a hot day. I make it a regular part of my hiking practice to look for good water and drink some on every hike. Over the years I’ve realized that with proper and systematic evaluation of a water source, one can probably obtain clean and pure drinking water by using careful selection criteria. This article describes the methods I use to decide which waters to sip from. I’ve been doing it continuously now for almost twenty years and never once acquired any intestinal illness during that time.

Background – Giardia in the Jarbidge

It’s only been in the last year or two that we’ve taken to sipping natural mountain waters for an entire trip. For me, coming around to this way of handling water has been a very gradual process. The first and only time that I’ve had Giardia was 23 years ago, when I was a young and naïve graduate student. Then, I’d gone on a backpack trip with a friend into the wilds around Jarbidge, Nevada, a remote area in the northeastern part of the state. The night before we entered the wilderness my friend and I had camped next to an idyllic little river. As the evening twilight settled over us, I cooked up a meal and took water from the river at our feet.

The next morning on our way to the trailhead we came around a bend in the road just upstream from our camping spot, and to my wonder a large flock of sheep proceeded to cross the road in a great cloud of dust. A sheepherder smiled at us as the last of the sheep crossed the road. My friend and I continued on to the trailhead and never gave the sheep another thought.

Trouble hit about three days later. Hiking along, my friend began to complain of stomach pains, which grew worse through the afternoon. Then the illness hit full force, and within hours we were both incapacitated. I’ll skip the messy details but the experience, as they say, is one I shall never forget.

After that awful experience of Giardia, I took it for granted that water everywhere in the backcountry has Giardia in it. That seemed to be the advice wherever I checked. For the next several years I never drank untreated water, always boiling or filtering it first before drinking. I assumed and believed all the warnings about Giardia being ever-present.

One day on a mountain hike in hot weather I ran completely out of water. As the day wore on I realized it was going to be a long, thirsty hike back to base camp before I could get any clean water. Eventually thirst drove to me to consider a drink of raw water, and I started scouting for a likely source. I finally drank from a fast-moving streamlet on a steep slope that carried snowmelt down to the valley stream below. The water was icy cold and very clear. At that point I was so thirsty I didn’t really care what happened, but I noticed after a few days that everything was fine.

Enjoying the Taste of Natural Water

I’ve often felt a nice connection to the natural world that comes from reaching right down into a stream and sipping handfuls of icy water on a hot day.

Over the years there were other opportunities to sample pure, untreated mountain water. Sometimes on high alpine slopes, especially on high ridges with melting snowbanks, I’d dip a hand into a rivulet and take a few sips. Then, it was mostly symbolic, as I wanted to have in my mountain wanderings the experience of just drinking water straight from the Earth. An interesting thing happened: I did this half a dozen times and never had any ill effect. So I began to make it a regular part of my hiking practice to look for good water and drink some on every hike. Eventually it occurred to me that with proper and systematic evaluation of a water source, one could probably obtain clean and pure drinking water by using careful selection criteria.

General Principles of Sipping the Waters

Let’s discuss a few general principles of selecting a good water source. I mainly backpack in the high Rockies of Colorado and Wyoming where snowbanks persist on mountain slopes the year round, so much of what follows is best suited to finding good water in an alpine environment. These methods may be substantially less applicable to water at lower elevations and in places where the water is not moving very fast. For example, in the canyon country of the Southwest I am considerably more cautious about the water I choose to sip.

The considerations about water purity break down into two main classes: biological impurities such as bacteria and parasites, and chemical impurities such as metals or toxins. Here in Colorado, the long history of mining in the mountains has created a number or areas where heavy metal pollution is a real concern. In this discussion I will focus mostly on the common biological contaminants such as Giardia and Cryptosporidium. Avoiding toxic impurities that result from mine tailings requires very specific knowledge of the watershed you are traveling in and is beyond the scope of this article. Normally this problem is handled by the Forest Service authorities and warnings are posted at trailheads. For example, the trailhead for the Fourteener mountain of La Plata Peak in central Colorado carries an arsenic warning for the streams that drain some old mining activity.

First Principle: Get water close to its source

How do we go about finding water with a high probability of being uncontaminated by pathogens? The single most important aspect of finding good sipping water is to get close to the source. Usually this means finding a watercourse that is draining a large snowbank high on a steep slope. While hiking along I scout the slopes above, looking for likely snowbanks that are perched in large talus slopes. These areas are typically the least visited by wandering elk or deer. Often the water coming off these snowbanks courses under the rocks for some distance and this lessens the chance of animal contact with it.

Sipping the Waters: Techniques for Drinking Untreated Backcountry Water - 2
Alpine snowmelt in the Indian Peaks Wilderness.

Second Principle: Make sure the water is cold

Test the water with your hand to see if it is quite cold. Extremely cold water barely above freezing means it has not traveled far from its icy source. Cold water does not make it harder for organisms to survive, but it means that the water has had less chance to come into contact with animals that deposit the organisms.

Third Principle: Look for fast-moving water

Standing or slow-moving water has more opportunities to acquire pathogens from the animal population. In general, look for swiftly moving water, preferably from a small source coming straight down a slope. These streamlets very often drain a melting snowbank during the warmer months. In general, I prefer to avoid sipping the water from any stream wider than four or five feet, unless I know with certainty that it comes from clean water upstream. Some of the rivers I frequent in Colorado are high enough and swift enough to drink from. I am more confident in drinking from these larger streams after I’ve successfully done it several years in a row, and I now have a large inventory of waters around the state that I consider clean and drinkable.

Sipping the Waters: Techniques for Drinking Untreated Backcountry Water - 3
Spring runoff in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Fast-moving water has less opportunity to acquire pathogens from the animal population. Look for water from a small source that is nearby to further improve quality.

Fourth Principle: Take water that is naturally filtered

I often drink water that is flowing down a forest slope that has lots of vegetation. Here the trick is to seek water that is moving fast and is very cold. I look for a streamlet that has very thick brush growing either side of it, meaning that animals have less access to the water. I have come to believe that lots of moss growing on the rocks in the streamlet is a good sign. It seems to correlate with a high degree of filtration as the moss acts like a kind of sponge, filtering out minerals, dirt, and small bits of debris.

Sometimes I find that good water comes from seeps. A seep is a narrow space in a rock wall that permits a slow movement of water out to its surface. Often you can find a good flat wall of rock with hanging moss gardens and nice clean water seeping from a crack in the rock. This water typically is being filtered through layers of rock and sand above the seep. Just be sure to survey the slope above the seep to make sure there are no obvious elk wallows. Some of the best tasting and cleanest appearing water I’ve found in Canyon Country comes from seeps. Here, the water is being filtered through hundreds or even thousands of feet of sandstone and is likely extremely pure.

Sipping the Waters: Techniques for Drinking Untreated Backcountry Water - 4
Seeps from rocks will likely have water that has been filtering down for years if not much longer.

Fifth Principle: Avoid large mammals

Once in a while my water-sipping strategies backfire, sometimes in a funny way. Once after climbing a high peak in Rocky Mountain National Park I was descending a talus slope in a scantly used drainage. Walking along the tundra I found a likely looking streamlet with the all the requisite qualities. I walked along for a while, looking for elk sign as elk are numerous in this Park. After scouting for a quarter mile and seeing no sign of elk, I bent down and slaked my considerable thirst with the icy cold water. I resumed the march downhill and came around a bend to see four of the largest and most magnificent bull elk I’d ever seen. Each one had an enormous trophy rack of points – they were quite a gang of stately bulls. They were grazing five feet away from the stream I’d just drunk from! I waited nervously for a few days to become sick with Giardia, but luckily nothing ever happened.

Beavers

Another important consideration is our friend the beaver. Colorado and Wyoming have large beaver populations, and one needs to be on the lookout for them. Sometimes I’ve followed a stream that I considered a good candidate for sipping, only to find a beaver lodge a ways upstream. I’ve sometimes come across many beaver dams in a single creek, spread out over a mile or more. In these areas the stream water should be avoided.

Cattle

The presence of livestock in areas visited by backpackers can be a problem. This is a thorny political issue but also an ecological and health issue, as cattle may spread pathogens such as Giardia. Unlike elk and deer which wander over very large distances, cattle are often confined to a single watershed and may contribute greatly to fouling of waters. The best approach here is to be aware of any livestock operations in the areas one is visiting. I rarely sip any waters in these areas unless I can clearly see the entire watercourse from its direct source in a snowbank.

Closing Comments

The methods outlined here will help you to survey an area and decide whether drinking natural waters is prudent. Besides offering an option on long hikes when you may not have a filter along, sipping natural waters provides certain spiritual satisfactions and improves the wilderness experience. I feel a lot closer to the natural world when I can move around the mountains and partake of her natural offerings.

Although there will always be some element of risk in sipping natural waters in the wilderness, clearly this risk has been overstated for many years. Some readers may feel that the strategies presented in this article are unreliable or unduly risky, but they have served me well for nearly twenty years. During that time I’ve refined my methods for assessing water quality and have never once gotten ill from sipping water this way. (Of course, keep in mind that despite my precautions and calculations, a healthy immune system and a bit of luck surely play a part in my success too.) For me as a woodsman and mountaineer, being able to eat native wild plants and sip wild natural water is an important part of my life activities. With some intelligent study and thoughtful testing, many people will be able to enjoy the satisfaction of sipping natural waters. Good luck!

About the Author

Sipping the Waters: Techniques for Drinking Untreated Backcountry Water - 5
The author atop Fremont Peak in the Wind River Range, the second highest point in Wyoming.

Mike von Gortler is a middle-aged but active guy who lives in Boulder, Colorado where he is close to vast expanses of backcountry. He’s been practicing as an Emergency Physician for the past 18 years. The pursuit of wild chanterelles and other edible mountain plants keeps him moving through the uplands while keeping an eye out for the wildlife and wildflowers. Several times a year he can be found atop a Fourteener with his teenage daughter or some friends.

Montrail Hardrock Trail Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW

Designed for the grueling Hardrock 100 endurance race – and that’s no exaggeration!

Overview

Montrail makes a number of lightweight trail running shoes that are well suited for ultralight backpacking, and one of the most popular is the Hardrock. For good reason. They come in the classical “Montrail fit” (wide toe box, snug heel cup), as well as a wide version (EE width). I tested the wide version. The Hardrock may not be the absolute lightest trail shoe out there, but it’s an excellent balance of light weight, fit, comfort, support, and durability.

Montrail’s IntegraFit (wide toe box, supportive arch, snug heel cup) is not for everyone. It’s a matter of trying these shoes on to see if they work for you. If your feet like them, you may become hooked for life. For me, the “Montrail fit” in the wide version (fits to EE width) of the Hardrock was a match made in heaven.

Montrail Hardrock Trail Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
A close look at the Montrail Hardrock. The uppers are made of various synthetics which are very durable and double sewn. They incorporate lateral webbing that connects directly to the lacing system for increased lateral stability. A midsole TPU plate, a pronounced side rand, and a double toe bumper provide rock protection. Shaped foam padding in the heel strike zone and arch area provide comfort, fit, and pronation control for high-mileage endeavors. The outsole is Montrail’s Gryptonite GT rubber with an aggressively lugged tread to provide very sticky and long-wearing traction.

Montrail Hardrock Trail Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
Although the Hardrock protects your foot well, there are a couple of seams on each side of the toe area that are vulnerable to thread wear. Seam failure on the sides of the toe box is the biggest problem I have with hiking shoes. Although I did not have any problems with the Hardrock, I strongly recommend coating side seams with McNett FreeSole (liquid urethane) when the shoes are new to enhance their durability and extend the life of the shoe.

Montrail Hardrock Trail Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 3
These shoes were designed for the Hardrock 100 endurance race held at Silverton, Colorado. I live about 50 miles from there, and have hiked much of the course wearing the Hardrocks. Actually the Hardrock 100 route was easy terrain compared to where I took them. I wore the Hardrocks over all types of terrain, ranging from rough trails to off-trail conditions with steep uphills, downhills, and sidehills. I also wore them through miles and miles of sliderock and glacial rock fields. I can say unequivocally that the Hardrocks are very stable, supportive, comfortable, and tough.

Many of the photos with this review show the Hardrock being worn “bare”, but I always wore them with short gaiters to keep water, snow, mud, and debris from entering through the top.

At first I found the heel cup to be a little too tight (for me), and preferred to wear them with thinner Coolmax socks. As they conformed to my feet more, I found them comfortable to wear with cushy merino wool socks. The Hardrock responded very well to different lacing techniques for different conditions. A little looser was just fine for continuous climbing. On steep downhills I definitely liked them laced tight over my instep to prevent toe jamming. And on steep sidehills I liked both the toe box and instep laced tighter to prevent rollover.

Montrail Hardrock Trail Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 4
The outsole on the Hardrock is Montrail’s sticky Griptonite rubber in a very aggressive tread that provides superb traction. Of the many different hiking shoes/boots I have used, I would have to say that the grip and traction of the Hardrock is among the very best.

Since they have no WP/B membrane, the Hardrock gets wet easily and is fairly slow to dry out. There is more padding in the ankle and tongue area, which makes it very comfortable to wear, but in wet conditions it also makes it soak up more water and stay wet longer. On backpacking trips in really wet weather, my shoes and socks stayed damp the entire time. I got the Hardrocks incredibly muddy on a couple of trips, and was amazed at how easily they cleaned up.

Overall, the Montrail Hardrock is an outstanding trail shoe for those who want a good balance of light weight, comfort, support, traction, and durability. There are lighter trail shoes out there, like the Timberland Delerion and Inov-8 Flyroc, that are lighter and dry out faster, but may not provide the other desired attributes for long distance hiking. It also depends a lot on your feet – if the “Montrail fit” works for you, Montrail may become your shoe company.

Specifications and Features

  • Manufacturer: Montrail (http://montrail.com/)
  • Year/Model: 2006 Hardrock Wide
  • Style: Low-cut trail hiking and running shoe
  • Materials: Various synthetics
  • Midsole: TPU plate, shock absorbing foam, posted for pronation control
  • Outsole: Gryptonite GT sticky rubber with aggressive lugged tread
  • Sizes Available: men’s 7-15, half sizes to13; women’s 5-11; two widths
  • Weight: Measured weight men’s size 11.5 wide 31.7 oz per pair (899 g), manufacturer specification 26 oz per pair (737 g) for size 9.5
  • MSRP: $95

Meridian Designs AquaStar Plus Ultraviolet Light Water Purifier REVIEW

Treat your water using this robust, 3.9-ounce, ultraviolet light based, water purifier.

Introduction

We all have to deal with making our drinking water safe during backcountry trips. Until recently, we could choose to filter, chemically treat, or boil our water to ensure with confidence that it was safe. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages, its adherents and detractors. At the 2005 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market, Meridian Technologies introduced the AquaStar UV Purifier. Meridian has since improved the product, releasing the AquaStar Plus at the 2005 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market. They have continued to make improvements to the product to become the robust ultraviolet light water purifier we review here. If you do not like the hassle of working with chemicals or a standard pump filter (to say nothing of toting the weight of the average pump filter), then perhaps the 3.9-ounce (110-grams), purifier only, AquaStar Plus deserves a closer look.

What’s Good

  • Fast. Purifies 1 liter of water in 80 seconds.
  • Built-in lantern provides ample light for in-camp use.
  • Does not affect the taste of the water.

What’s Not So Good

  • Uses non-rechargeable CR123 batteries.
  • Does not screw completely tight to Nalgene Canteens which can result in minor leakage when canteens are upended.
  • Severely affected by moderately cold air and water temperatures.

Specifications

  Year/Model

2006 AquaStar Plus UV Water Purifier

  Weight

Measured weight 8.2 oz (232 g); manufacturer’s specification 8.5 oz (240 g) for UV unit with batteries attached to the supplied polycarbonate 1L bottle.
Measured weight of bottle 4.2 oz (120 g)
Measured weight of UV-C Purifier without batteries 2.6 oz (74 g). Measured weight of batteries 1.1 oz (34 g). Measured weight of pre-filter 0.1 oz (4 g).

  Battery Type
and Lifetime

Two x Type CR123 batteries (3 volt photo batteries)
Approximately 60 purifications cycles per set of batteries.

  Features

Treats one (1) liter of water in 80 seconds
Lantern function uses three white 5 mm LEDs built into the cap and runs for 15 minutes before auto-shutoff (30 minutes of lamp use is equivalent to one water treatment cycle).
UV-C lamp estimated to last 2,000 hours.

  MSRP

$99.00

Performance

AquaStar Plus operation could not be simpler. Fill your water bottle, screw the AquaStar Plus on tight, push and hold the button for a moment until the UV emitter activates, and that is all there is to it. If the water is turbid or you want to be extra careful, swirl the water around some during the 80 seconds the ultraviolet light is on. To limit the amount of detritus that enters your water when you fill your bottle, simply cover the bottle’s mouth with the provided no-see-um mesh prefilter to block larger particles and debris. Once a water treatment cycle is complete, a green light in the head of the purifier will flash for 10 seconds. Should a purification cycle terminate before the required 80 seconds have elapsed a red light will flash instead, indicating failure to complete.

The cleverly designed prefilter/strainer is a piece of fabric with a drawcord. To use, secure the pre-filter to the top of your water bottle, tighten the drawcord to ensure a snug fit, and then dip your bottle into the water source. The strainer acts like a coffee filter, straining out 200-micron and larger particles from the water. Not as fine as a paper filter, its purpose is nevertheless to remove the larger debris that could block the light from the UV emitter and float unpleasantly in your drinking water. I used the pre-filter in fairly cloudy source water and found it does a nice job of visually clearing the water.

Meridian Designs AquaStar Plus Ultraviolet Light Water Purifier REVIEW - 1

Meridian Designs AquaStar Plus Ultraviolet Light Water Purifier REVIEW - 2

The fabric pre-filter traps 200-micron and larger particles. Its purpose is to remove debris that could impair the Aquastar’s functionality.

Built into the AquaStar Plus’ solid plastic head is a lantern made of three white LEDs. The lantern is turned on by quickly clicking the power button twice. Once on, the light remains lit for 15 minutes, then shuts off automatically to preserve the batteries. According to the manufacturer, running the light for 30 minutes drains the batteries the equivalent of one complete treatment cycle. The lantern casts non-directional white light that is more than enough to do all manner of camp chores, or even read a book in your shelter. I found that leaving the bottle full of water improved the lantern’s functionality.

Changing the batteries is a simple task. The thumbscrews on top of the AquaStar Plus can be loosened while wearing gloves but be careful, it is easy to lose a screw. Fortunately the unit works just fine with one locking screw. In warm weather, the batteries power the unit as claimed. However, when the temperature drops the ultraviolet light refuses to run through a complete cycle. With the return of warmer ambient air and/or water temperatures, the unit works normally again.

Meridian Designs claim that the AquaStar Plus can purify 60 liters of water on a fresh set of CR123 batteries. I have found this claim to be about right under warm air and water conditions, but cooler temperatures degrade performance. A more reliable number seems to be about 50 liters per set of batteries. With some careful shopping, you can greatly reduce your cost per liter of operation, as CR123 prices vary wildly.

The AquaStar Plus ships with a polycarbonate 1-liter bottle that has directions and appropriate warnings printed on its side. The combined weight of these two components is 7.9 ounces. The unit can be used with wide-mouth Nalgene Canteens, saving several ounces. The only minor problem with this is that you need to exercise some care screwing the purifier on to the Nalgene Canteen, since the fit is not quite as secure as the standard cap. If you keep your water bottle upright, the worst you will likely see is a very slow accumulation of water around the threads. If I ever lost water during the course of a typical backpacking day, it was minimal.

Meridian Designs AquaStar Plus Ultraviolet Light Water Purifier REVIEW - 3
The AquaStar Plus in its polycarbonate bottle. A water treatment cycle is in progress.

Despite several weeks of use and several flights stowed in airline luggage, the AquaStar Plus has shown no signs of wear and tear. While I have no doubt that the AquaStar Plus is more vulnerable to failure than treatment chemicals, I have not taken any special care with it. The unit has ridden in an external pocket of my Gossamer Gear Mariposa on several trips and has fallen from out of that pocket onto the ground a few times (as the result of my own falls). I have no doubt that placing the AquaStar Plus inside the hard-sided confines of a polycarbonate bottle will improve overall durability, but the purifier has functioned well inside my Nalgene Canteens.

What’s Unique

The market for UV water treatment systems is still fairly new. The AquaStar Plus represents a well-thought out and implemented entry into this new arena of water treatment. In our fast-paced world of plug-and-play items, the AquaStar Plus provides almost instant gratification when it comes to treating water.

Recommendations for Improvement

Overall the AquaStar Plus is a well-designed product. It has some limitations but most are unavoidable, like the power requirements. This is not a knock against the AquaStar Plus, since all water treatment tools have limitations. One design change that would be nice to see is the use of captive screws for the battery cover.

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