Articles (2020)

Introduction

Part LED headlamp and part button-cell minilight, the PETZL e+LITE offers more features and flexibility than is typical with either form. With both white and red LEDs, a detachable lamphead that can clip to a hat, a rotary switch and a handy storage case, never in the history of flashlightdom has 1 ounce provided the user with so many choices.

What’s Good

• Miniscule size and weight
• Flexible, adaptable design
• Useful, adjustable output
• Night-vision friendly red mode
• Brilliant switch
• Screw-free battery change
• IPX6 waterproof rating

What’s Not So Good

• Fleetingly brief initial bright output
• Minimal difference between high and low modes
• Competitive price?

Specifications

PETZL threw out the book of headlamp design creating the e+LITE; it’s as though they held a design competition fueled liberally with Burgundy and espresso. Whatever its genesis, the resulting e+LITE blazes a lot of new ground.

What It Is

The e+LITE is a button-cell flashlight. But unlike other such lights, it sports multiple LEDs (four, total) in two colors and a lever-operated rotary switch instead of a pushbutton. The e+LITE is also a true headlamp, with a detachable elastic strap that threads through the lamphead base. The lamphead attaches to the base via a ball-and-socket joint, which gives it unlimited tilt and swivel. The base also features a metal wire clip that can anchor the lamphead to a cap bill or hat brim, sans strap. Versatile.

The e+LITE has a triangle of three white 5 mm LEDs that operate on high, low and flash. A single red LED centered inside the white trio operates in steady or flash. All modes are accessed using a lever switch that rotates through a 180-degree arc, with click-stops at each of the five modes, plus “off” settings at either end and a lock setting that folds it flush, protected against accidental operation. The sequence is lock, off, low white, high white, flash white, flash red, steady red, off. Clever; different.

The e+LITE comes packed in a plastic two-piece lozenge case that’s held closed by an o-ring. A belt loop on the case allows the e+LITE to be stowed on a packstrap. Handy.

What It Isn’t

The e+LITE isn’t a substitute for a multi-AA or AAA-powered headlamp. The miniscule button cells simply can’t match the staying power of their much larger cylindrical cousins. But, thanks to the latest generation of high-efficiency 5 mm LEDs, the e+LITE does provide very useful campsite light for a multi-night backpacking trip. While fresh batteries light up a trail enough to walk with confidence, extended nighttime navigation isn’t the e+LITE’s forte because the initial output’s duration is brief.

Why consider an e+LITE instead of an advanced microlight such as the Photon Freedom? In addition to the obviously greater feature set and the brighter, broader beam, there are the batteries. Instead of the typical two CR2016s, the e+LITE uses two CR2032s. These are twice the thickness and more than twice the capacity of the 2016s: 225 versus 90 mAh, each, which translates into a significantly extended useful life. The weight difference? About a gram, each. (All button cell lights should switch to CR2032s. Despite the minor increases in thickness and weight, they’d gain greater capacity.)

Performance

Output testing reveals the e+LITE’s strengths and weaknesses. Initial high-level output is a fleeting 300 lux, with an exact reading impossible because it drops so rapidly during the first fifteen minutes. After this initial plunge, high and low mode outputs show no appreciable difference, as the convergent curves show.

The white beam is reminiscent of other multi 5 mm white LED lights: an indistinct pool of light with a brighter purplish center. The beam diameter is about nine inches at two feet. The red beam is narrower and dimmer than the white, but bright enough to be useful.

Wearing and Operating

The 1-ounce e+LITE is certainly easy to wear, and is basically not noticeable once the strap is adjusted for comfort. Clipped to a ballcap the 17-gram lamphead is likewise unnoticeable, and the stout wire clip is reassuringly tenacious. Backscatter is eliminated using the cap option, and wasn’t bad using the strap. The ball-joint allows limitless aiming, and at least for our test remained stiff enough to hold its setting.

The switch can be operated wearing gloves, as long as it’s first taken out of the locked position. I sometimes overshoot my preferred position and have to back up because it’s difficult to feel the click stops through gloves.

Assessment: Toy, or Tool?

Implicit in the e+LITE’s packaging and indeed its name is to serve as an emergency headlamp. The case can be threaded onto a packstrap, well protected and ready for quick access. I believe it can fill that role quite adequately. The bright initial output can resolve typical nighttime puzzles; it’s just not a light that’s going to support an unplanned all-night march.

Whether it can become your sole backpacking headlamp depends on the use. As a campsite light the e+LITE works well. I quickly learned to primarily use it on low, reserving high as a boost mode like that provided on Petzl’s XP-series headlamps. The red mode is a great option for those interested in preserving night vision, and the switch allows switching it on directly to red to prevent dazzling the eyes. Because button cells have a solid rebound after resting a few hours, even worn cells provide 200-300 lux for at least a minute or two, which is adequate for brief technical navigation or stringing a bear bag line. With prudent use it can certainly support a weeklong backpacking trip, and toting a few extra grams in spare batteries would assure weeks of use. They’re also gratifyingly easy to swap, with the headstrap toggle substituting for the coin you might otherwise use to open the battery cap. It’s a thirty-second task.

Buying button cell batteries can be an experience. Despite being widely available, CR2032 prices vary hugely. I paid as much as four dollars each during this test, but have found them on-line for as little as thirty cents, in bulk. Because they have a long shelf life, shopping the sales and keeping a supply handy seems like the way to go.

Idle Speculation

Could the e+LITE represent a test platform for design elements that might migrate to other headlamps? If so, we say “heap them on,” especially the switch, the red light option and the robust IPX6 waterproof rating.

Value

For a somewhat princely thirty bucks, the e+LITE isn’t everyone’s impulse, gotta-have-it purchase. The same amount can buy a “serious” headlamp such as one of Petzl’s Tikka models or a small fistful of generic button-cell lights. Serious nighttime navigation requires more light than the e+LITE can muster, but little 1-ounce wonder will give enough hands-free light to operate easily around camp, with the added benefit of night-vision-friendly red.

Compared To

Compared to the Photon Freedom, the brightest single-LED button cell light we’ve tested, the e+LITE’s beam is broader and more useful in all applications. Both are similarly affected by rapid drop-off with time, although the Photon’s continuously variable output allows more flexibility in matching output to task. Interestingly, the two miniscule lights offer what no popular “regular” sized headlamp does: the ability to switch on directly to low.

What’s Unique

Nearly everything about the e+LITE is new and fresh, from the modular form to its white-and-red LED array to its rotary switch to the storage capsule. The e+LITE is also the only immersible Petzl light we’ve tested.

Recommendations for Improvement

Low mode could be lower for more distinction from high. Add regulation circuitry.

Question for Down the Trail

Will the ball-and-socket retain adequate tension with extended wear?

Introduction

Following its justly popular EOS, Princeton Tec offers the four-LED Quad in a very similar package. The Quad’s wide beam is very useful in camp and still supports nighttime travel. The Quad is light, affordable, waterproof and has an easy-to-use power switch. The Quad’s current regulation offers extended periods of steady output in the low and medium modes, but not in high mode.

What’s Good

• Bright, wide beam that’s the best of any 5 mm headlamp we’ve tested
• Waterproof to 1 meter
• Easy-to-use power switch
• Low battery indicator
• Tilting lamphead
• Light and compact
• Solid build and materials
• Affordable
• Lifetime warranty

What’s Not So Good

• Current regulation not effective on high
• Beam exhibits the familiar purple artifacts typical of white 5 mm LEDs
• Loose tilt ratchet on our sample

Specifications

Overview

The Princeton Tec Quad demonstrates the continued viability of multi-5 mm headlamps in a marketplace being quickly dominated by high-output 1-, 3- and even 5-watt Luxeon LED headlamps. The Quad is surprisingly bright for a small, four-LED headlamp and casts a relatively wide and even beam. This is good news for those who don’t care for blazingly bright pencil beams that illuminate a trail 100 feet ahead but aren’t so nice on the eyes in camp. The Quad is small, light, waterproof, frugal and features regulation for extended stretches of steady output.

Compared To

The Quad is a close cousin to the 1-watt Luxeon EOS, a light we’ve extolled at Backpacking Light for its stellar performance, light weight and affordability. We’ve also been fans of the Princeton Tec Aurora in the past, but it’s astonishing how superior the Quad is to the Aurora for small increases in weight and cost. Several recently upgraded Petzl 5 mm LED headlamps compete with the Quad, including the Tactikka that features a night-vision preserving flip-down red lens. None of the Petzl lights match the Quad’s regulation and waterproofness rating. Black Diamond’s Cosmo is their closest equivalent, and it also lacks regulation and immersibility.

Design and Construction

Controls and Operation

The lone combination power-mode button is located atop the Quad’s lamphead. This large button is operable wearing heavy gloves and mittens, and is the best we’ve yet used. Controls follow the typical high, medium, low, flash, off operating sequence. No mode memory on power-up means the Quad always starts on high, a trend we’d like to see eliminated on all flashlights (either start on low or the last mode used). A 1.5-second pause in any mode means the next push turns the light off, eliminating the need to roll through all the modes.

Lamphead

The Quad’s LEDs are arrayed four-across behind a protective lens. The lamphead’s eyebrow shape reduces glare and backscatter. Its angle adjusts from straight ahead to a downward tilt of ninety degrees. Upward tilt from horizontal isn’t possible, but as with any single-band headlamp, invert the Quad if an upward tilt is needed. Our sample has a rather loose ratchet, meaning the angle can be knocked from the set position. (This could be sample variation, as store copies I’ve checked have stiffer and more reliable ratcheting, but potential buyers have no way to check out a packaged sample in the store beforehand.)

Battery Power Meter

When the batteries are nearly dead, a red LED battery indicator a little below the LED array blinks when the light’s off. Also, the main LEDs will blink upon switching on a Quad with very worn batteries.

Battery Compartment

The hinged battery compartment is integrated to the Quad’s lamphead. It’s o-ring-sealed and held closed by a captive, slotted and knurled thumbscrew. The headband buckle serves as a screwdriver for opening and tightening. Batteries access is easy and correct battery alignment is obvious – a safety feature for the headlamp itself. Batteries are secured tightly enough that they’re unlikely to fall out inadvertently. Princeton Tec claims IPX7 water resistance for the Quad – immersible to 1 meter for 30 minutes. Our dunk test confirms this spec.

Headstrap

The simple 1-inch wide headband is soft and comfortable. It’s long enough to fit a climbing helmet and the strap guides are notched for easy removal and replacement, making it easy to wash the strap if so desired.

Performance

I measured beam intensity and width at all output levels from our standard 2-foot distance. Effective beam control tames the four white LEDs into a wide and even beam with a good amount of beam “spill” for peripheral lighting. The beam center has the familiar purple tint generated by seemingly all white 5 mm LEDs, but not so pronounced and annoying as with many earlier lights. The LEDs are a big improvement over their predecessors, both in brightness and color quality, and likely represent the latest evolutionary wave from the electronics wizards. It’s not possible to ascertain whether the Quad’s reflector-like bezel has a positive effect on the beam pattern, although I suspect it’s likely.

With fresh batteries the Quad is very bright for a four x 5 mm LED headlamp. As a point of comparison, our test Princeton Tec Corona isn’t as bright with eight LEDs. The Quad’s initial high mode output was 630 lux. There’s an ovoid center spot – purplish in hue – that averages about 8 inches in diameter at 2 feet distance. Rather than a sharp cutoff at the bright spot’s edge there’s a gradual transition to a much larger and somewhat whiter area, perhaps 18 inches in diameter. In sum, the Quad provides a very wide and useful beam pattern.

Our experience is that low and medium are satisfactory for all camping and a certain portion of trail activities, and high supports nighttime navigation of fairly sketchy trails. The relatively wide and even beam illuminates a wider swath of the trail than a typical Luxeon light. This is sometimes preferable, for example, if you’re following a path and looking for blazes.

I performed run-time tests on the Quad in high and medium modes. Review of the graph reveals my biggest Quad qualm: there’s not much evidence of effective regulation in high mode. Intensity dropped by about a third in the first fifteen minutes, then by half from that point over the next four hours. It reached the initial medium equivalent at about four hours and initial low equivalent at nine.

Medium, by contrast, shows effective regulation – providing very steady output for almost eight hours, then a gradual decline for several hours more. Medium crossed the initial low equivalent at about twelve hours, and eventually matched the high output curve at about twenty-four hours.

Princeton Tec advises that the battery power meter activates when batteries are near the end of their functional life. Our tests seemed to verify this, as the signal first appeared near the end of each battery run at roughly 30 lux (about 5% of maximum brightness). The miniscule red LED blinks only when the light’s switched off, and seems primarily aimed at the grab-and-run crowd who wouldn’t bother to check their flashlight before taking off with it. Additionally, the Quad switched on with nearly dead batteries blinks the main lights several times to alert the user of their status (in case the very dim output isn’t evidence enough). This occurred well after the red signal first activated in our tests.

In the Field

The Quad proved effective and comfortable in varied nighttime situations. In camp it’s an ideal headlamp – the bright, wide, smooth beam is great for setting up, cooking, organizing, or hanging a bear line. Most of the time, the low setting serves up enough light. As a trail light the Quad might even be better than a brighter pencil beam on easy trails by lighting up more of the border and reducing the need for head swiveling. Even with the wider beam spread it’s still effective for sketchier paths. Of course, sometimes there’s no substitute for “horsepower” and focused 1 and 3-watt Luxeon lights are simply better, but perhaps my biggest surprise with the Quad was that those times are less common than I’d expected. I suspect this is mostly due to the Quad’s being far brighter than other 5 mm lights I’ve used, combined with its well controlled beam pattern and more neutral color.

The lamphead extends far enough to reduce glare off of glasses. The strap is comfortable and holds without cinching it tight, so it can be worn for hours if necessary. The angle ratchet doesn’t hold as well as I’d like and as noted earlier, might be defective on ours. While not a balanced designed with batteries in back, the Quad is sufficiently light that it doesn’t seem front-heavy. Of course, no batteries in back make it great for reading while lying on one’s back.

Batteries, and Realistic Run Times

Three AAA alkaline batteries provide good life at 35 grams per set, while a 23-gram set of lithiums will last longer and significantly boost cold-weather performance. It’s certainly the case that with prudent use, the Quad can provide many, many nights of service on a single set. Use our runtime chart as a rough guide for projecting your likely use. Even when the batteries are all but dead they’ll continue for hours, perhaps days longer at a very low level. At a measly 10 lux there’s enough light to dig items out of a pack or even cook, but not enough light for nighttime travel, at least for those of us not blessed with owl eyes.

Assessment

The Quad almost single-handedly reinvigorates the multi-5 mm LED headlamp marketplace, giving those who don’t like 1-watt Luxeon headlamps a legitimate 5 mm alternative for technical nighttime travel. Most similar headlamps are, generally speaking, suited only for walking on clearly delineated trails; however they, like the Quad, are superior to most Luxeon-only headlamps for camp chores and reading.

Clearly based on the EOS, the Quad’s general design and construction are also simple, robust and now proven. In fact, the Quad power switch is better than that on the EOS. Like the EOS, the Quad is compact and lightweight, making it a pleasure to carry and wear. Since a single battery set can last a good many trail days, most users will be freed from carrying spares.

Value

At $30 the Quad is a very good value. It’s aggressively priced in a very competitive market segment, while providing a unique feature set and packing Princeton Tec’s reputation and lifetime warranty.

What’s Unique

Very bright for a 5 mm headlamp. Effective regulation on medium and low. Great switch. Immersible.

Recommendations for Improvement

Effective regulation in high mode would improve the Quad, even if it came at the cost of lowering initial output some (there’s little benefit to gaudy output that lasts five minutes). Reverse the mode sequence to begin on low or provide mode memory. Incorporating an always on “find me” feature to the power meter, similar to Black Diamond’s Zenix IQ, would extend its value, as would a two-stage power warning (e.g., stage 1 at 50%, stage 2 at 10%). We’re presuming our sample’s loose ratchet is an anomaly, and not representative of most Quads.

Introduction

The Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool is an alternative approach to building an igloo. Instead of the traditional method of packing snow, cutting blocks, carrying them, shaping them, and assembling them, the Icebox’s slip form and pivot rod allow you to build blocks in place which is a lot faster and dryer. Although the Icebox takes care of the igloo engineering for you, there’s still a lot of technique to master, as explained in its 20-page instruction book and video. In this review we describe how the tool works, assess how easy it is to use, and reveal how snow conditions affect its ease of use.

What’s Good

• Compact and easy to attach to a pack
• Weighs only 5 pounds, about the same as a tent
• Packable, especially for group trips
• Faster (and dryer) than conventional igloo-building methods
• Relatively easy to use with packable snow
• Builds a perfect igloo that is very strong

What’s Not so Good

• Requires skill development
• Challenging to use with sugar snow
• Pivot stake loosens and moves

Specifications

Performance

Out of the box, the Icebox comes in a compact flat package measuring 24 inches x 14 inches x 3 inches. All of the components fit neatly inside the two halves of the block-molding form, and the unit is secured with two nylon straps. It’s concave on one side and easily attaches to the front of a backpack. With a packed weight of about 5 pounds (depending on which components you take), the Icebox is fairly lightweight (about the same weight as a 2-person tent) and very packable.

Compared to conventional igloo building methods – where you cut snow blocks, carry them to the igloo, and shape them to fit – the Icebox follows a completely different approach. It uses the basic concept of a cement form to construct the blocks in place. The main components are a center stake, a pivot rod, and a slip form at the end of the pivot rod which is packed with snow to create the snow blocks. The center stake and pivot rod serve to create a perfect dome-shaped igloo. With the slip form, the wall of the igloo is built by creating inclined blocks in place while advancing in a spiral. The result is a perfect igloo which is structurally a very strong shape. The cross-section is actually a catenary curve where the pressure pushing in is equalized by the pressure pushing down.

The igloo-building crew consists of a form handler inside the igloo and a shoveler on the outside. Because of these logistics, the minimum crew is two people; it’s simply not practical for one person to do both jobs. If more than two people are available, the other people can work in by trading jobs, building a ramp around the igloo (to stand on when the top is closed in), or fetching snow.

To get the spiral started, you need to build three partial blocks to create a ramp (see photo below). Also it’s critical that the first layer be set at the correct inward angle. With each successive layer, five to eight in all, the length of the pivot rod is adjusted to place the slip form in exactly the right place and inward angle. The walls curve sharply inward at the top of the igloo, so the process changes to the person inside using only one side of the slip form to support the advancing wall being packed by a person on the outside.

If you are following us so far, you are probably thinking “Hey, this is a piece of cake, let’s get one and have some fun building igloos with family, scout troop, or friends.” Well, there’s more that you need to know. The bottom line is this: the Icebox Tool takes care of the engineering part of igloo building, but there’s still a lot of technique involved that you need to master.

Here are a few technique factoids to illustrate the point:

• You need to pack a solid platform for the igloo and let it set up
• The center stake must be solidly planted so it doesn’t come loose
• You need to learn the pivot rod settings to build the size igloo you want
• You must set the first layer at the correct angle
• Packing snow in the slip form requires skill and finesse (you need to pack snow to snow and expand the form a bit so it stays in place)
• Releasing and moving the slip form requires skill so you don’t fracture the block you just completed
• Transitioning from one layer to the next requires some finesse with adjusting the pivot rod length
• Closing in the top requires a long reach and packing skills

We could go on in great length about all the nuances involved in mastering the technique, but we will spare you the details in this review. Fortunately, Grand Shelters is very straightforward about the steep learning curve, and provides lots of information on their website (including the user manual) to help you decide whether or not you want to purchase the tool. When you receive the Icebox Tool, it comes with a 20-page instruction manual plus a video to walk you through the learning process. We recommend reading the manual and watching the video several times, then building a smaller first igloo near home, then reading the manual and watching the video again, then advancing to building a larger igloo in the backcountry.

Last, and definitely not least, the type of snow makes a big difference with how easy it is to build an igloo using the Icebox tool. After building six igloos under different conditions we found the Icebox relatively easy to use with any snow that will form a snowball (new, wet or older snow), moderately easy to use with fresh powder snow, and challenging to use for sugar snow and depth hoar. The secret to using the latter types is pounding it repeatedly with your shovel before you load it into the slip form. Basically you are doing the same thing that an avalanche does with it – “warming” it up so it sets up well after it is packed in the form. Once you master that technique you will find that the Icebox tool will make an igloo with any type of snow. With sugar snow and depth hoar, it just takes more time and energy to do it.

Assessment

The Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool makes igloo building more do-able and fun for the average person. It handles the engineering aspects for you (which some people would argue is part of the challenge and fun), but leaves plenty of technique for you to master. Bottom line, it takes some determination and effort to master the technique, but once you become skilled, igloo building is a wonderful winter activity in snow country. Using the tool with any type of packable snow is relatively easy, however sugar snow is challenging but do-able.

One issue you are probably wondering about is whether the Icebox Igloo Building Tool can be relied upon as the only option for backcountry shelter. The short answer is that it depends on your expertise and travel plans. On the one hand it would be very risky to embark on a winter camping trip and depend on the Icebox to build an igloo shelter each night. But on the other hand you can build your own backcountry “hut” in advance and later camp in it, and it is entirely conceivable that you could build your own hut system. Other users may build an igloo in their backyard as a family activity, build one in the backcountry for a warming hut, or engage in recreational igloo building with friends.

The Icebox tool is made of high impact ABS plastic and aluminum tubing. It is the same plastic used for car parts and luggage, which means it’s extremely durable but not unbreakable. It is certainly possible to bend the pivot rod or break one of the plastic attachments, but with proper use the Icebox should last a lifetime.

What’s Unique

With the Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool you use a slip form and pivot rod to build snow blocks sequentially in place, which is a lot easier and dryer compared to the conventional method of cutting blocks with a snow saw, carrying them, and fitting them.

Recommendations for Improvement

The Icebox is well designed and constructed. In many ways it’s a specialty tool that needs to be accepted on its own terms. However, a few tweaks here and there would help make it more user-friendly:

• Re-write sections of the user manual to provide clearer instructions. The current narrative requires several reads to understand the process.
• Provide a sturdier center stake that is less likely to loosen
• Revise the design of the slip form at the U-bar end so it doesn’t slip down (with the present design, the form handler has to hold the form so it doesn’t slip down)
• Provide a card summarizing the pivot rod settings that can be taken to the field, and/or improve the list imprinted on the slip form so it’s more easily understood
• Simplify the strap system that secures the collapsed Icebox tool – possibly by putting arrows on the form to indicate the direction the straps are inserted.

Introduction

The Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 is among the lightest double wall, three-person tents on the market. It offers excellent views with the fly removed, full rain protection, and thoughtful design features. But how is the sizing for three adults?

What’s Good

• Lightweight for a three-person double wall tent at just over 4 pounds
• Good separation between inner tent and fly
• Center pole greatly increases usable space
• Quick and easy set up
• Three well-placed interior pockets
• Fantastic bug-free views with the fly removed

What’s Not So Good

• Sized more like a 2.5 person tent
• Lack of a vent leads to condensation inside the fly
• Small vestibule
• Rainfly storm flap snags in the zipper and is easily damaged

Specifications

Performance

The Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 is the larger version of the Big Agnes Seedhouse SL2. It is a double wall tent with a full mesh inner tent and a lightweight silnylon rainfly. Like the SL2, the SL3 features a single shock-corded ridge pole with dual hubs. In addition, the SL3 includes a second pole that crosses the middle for increased usable space and separation between the inner and outer tents.

At 4 pounds 2.9 ounces (trail weight), the Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 is one of the lightest double wall, three-person tents on the market. However, at only 36 square feet of floor space, it is tight for a three-person tent. Fitting three full-size adults in the SL3 requires that one person be facing the rear of the tent and that full-length sleeping pads overlap at some point. The vestibule is also too small to store three packs and still be able to enter and exit the tent. With this in mind, I would call the Big Agnes SL3 a “2.5-person tent”; it would be fine for a family of three that includes a young child and is very comfortable for two adults and gear.

Setting up the SL3 is very quick and can easily be done in just a few minutes. The main pole is deployed first and inserted into grommets at the corners of the inner tent and then attached with plastic clips. The middle pole is then attached to mid-point grommets and attached with plastic clips. The two poles do not connect at their intersection. On its own, the inner tent is freestanding and requires no stakes.

The rainfly is pitched by attaching six snapping buckles at the base of the tent and then adjusting for equal tension. Two stakes at the front and one at the rear are all that are needed for a minimal setup with the fly. There are a total of six stakeout points on the inner tent and eleven on the fly for a grand total of seventeen.

The inner tent of the SL3 is made entirely of 20 denier nylon mesh with a 7.5 inch high bathtub floor. With the rainfly off, this tent offers complete 360 degree views, one of the best views I’ve ever seen in a tent. This was especially nice during nights with heavy bug pressure; after using mainly single wall tents for quite a while, the expansive views while hiding from mosquitoes was a wonderful change. While the mesh of the inner tent gives the impression of being fragile, no damage occurred during field testing.

Internal storage of the Big Agnes tent is excellent. There is a wide pocket above the door and another pocket on either side of the door. The use of mesh makes it very easy to see individual items and there is plenty of room for cameras, headlamps, sunglasses, etc. Despite stuffing the pockets, we never experienced any snags or tears in the mesh fabric.

The silnylon rainfly and generous bathtub floor offer full rain protection during downpours. While I didn’t experience snow loading with this tent, when we reviewed the Seedhouse SL2, it held up nicely to several inches of snow. With the middle pole in addition to the ridge pole, I would expect that the SL3 would have similar, if not better results than the SL2.

When camping in moderate winds at the treeline, the SL3 showed solid wind stability. By using the guylines that are midway up the fly, the tent experiences very little side to side movement. However, the rainfly does not attach to the poles at these points so the fly pulls away from the tent structure. While this is common in three-season tents, attachment points like this help a great deal with wind stability. Further, the middle and ridgeline poles do not attach at their intersection, instead they “float” independently of each other. In heavy winds, it would be nice to have the option of locking those together (although it would be very easy with a Velcro strap). With its generous guyouts, steeply-sloped front and rear, and good pole structure, the SL3 handles moderate winds very well. With some modifications (Velcro strap at the intersection and sewn-in Velcro attachments at the upper guyout points), it would be able to handle very high winds.

Headroom in the SL3 is very good – especially in the middle of the tent. I’m 6 feet 1 inch tall and I have plenty of room to sit up and stretch out, even with another hiker in the tent. The door area is much lower however, and requires bending over to enter the tent. With the rainfly attached, entry into the tent is even harder. A larger entryway or a second door would be a welcome addition, especially in a three-person tent.

With the mesh inner tent and good separation between the inner and outer tents, I never experienced condensation inside the inner tent during field testing. However, I experienced quite a bit of condensation on the inside of the rainfly. This is due to restricted airflow.

The best ventilation systems in tents tend to use a “high/low” system of venting in which air flows from a lower vent through a vent up high, creating a chimney effect. While an overhang at the rear of the SL3 allows for the low part of that system, the lack of an upper vent traps air under the fly. While this is not a huge problem due to the double wall design (and the ability to carry the rainfly separately from the inner tent), a high vent on the rainfly would significantly increase airflow, ventilation, and condensation resistance.

While I didn’t experience any durability problems with the inner tent, the rainfly was damaged by an overzealous hiker. The storm flap of the rainfly tends to get caught in the zipper. This is definitely annoying and makes it difficult to quickly close the rainfly. With practice, though it isn’t too hard to separate the two when zipping. One night, however, a hiking buddy experienced this problem and forced the stuck zipper along, tearing the fly. While this was obviously hiker error, I took this as an opportunity to look at Big Agnes’ customer service. They were wonderful and had a completely new fly out to me within a week. While you shouldn’t experience a similar problem, it is nice to know that Big Agnes stands behind their products with integrity.

Assessment

The Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 is an excellent double wall tent. However, the small door, small vestibule, and limited interior space make it pretty cramped for three adults. But if you think of it as a 2.5 person tent (two adults plus gear), it quickly moves to the head of its class. This is a great tent for a family of three or two hikers looking for extra room.

What’s Unique

The full mesh inner tent makes for excellent views during heavy bug pressure.

Recommendations for Improvement

The biggest improvement to the Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 would be a name change to the SL2.5. To be a great three-person tent it would need:

• Several more inches of width
• A larger door (or a second one)
• A larger vestibule

Beyond that, my recommendations are minor:

• For increased wind stability, pole attachments at the upper guyline attachments and a connection at the pole junction would be nice, but are probably beyond the scope of this three-season tent.
• A reinforcement of the storm flap on the rainfly would also be nice – if only to avoid damage caused by heavy-handed hikers.
• An upper vent on the fly would really help with ventilation.

Introduction

The Tarptent Rainshadow 2 is the bigger brother to the Squall 2 which won the 2005 Backpacking Light Lightitude award for Best Single Wall Shelter. This three-person Tarptent shares all of the features of the Squall 2 and offers excellent living space for three adult hikers for just over 2 ½ pounds. The floored version (tested) features a floating bathtub floor that keeps the sleeping area dry while taking tension off the fabric. The doorway can be set up with single or dual poles, the dual pole pitch giving better entrance access and wind stability. How does this XL-sized Tarptent stand up to rough weather conditions?

What’s Good

• At 2 pounds 9.8 ounces, it’s very light for a three-person floored shelter with full rain and bug protection
• Realistic space for three full-size adults (unlike some three-person tents!)
• Front strut increases headroom and usable space
• Floating bathtub floor protects from splashing rain and is more durable than tensioned floors because of added puncture resistance
• Dual trekking pole setup opens entryway and increases wind stability
• Beak-style vestibule offers good protection while still allowing airflow
• Door and beak are easily rolled up for full ventilation and views
• New guyline adjusters are simple, lightweight, and easy to use

What’s Not So Good

• Less wind stability when set up with a single pole
• Front vent is not very functional
• Condensation issues in still, high humidity conditions

Specifications

Performance

The Tarptents have been a favorite among ultralight backpackers for years. The Tarptent Squall 2 won the Backpacking Light Lightitude Award for Best Single Wall Shelter in 2005, and for good reason. It has several important updates that increase its comfort and usability while maintaining much of the simplicity and aesthetics of the original Squall. The Tarptent Rainshadow 2 is the bigger brother to the Squall 2.

The Tarptent Rainshadow 2 is a single wall tent that is constructed of silicone-impregnated ripstop nylon. It uses a single hooped pole in the rear, a short horizontal strut pole at the front, and the option of one or two poles or trekking poles for front support. The tent features dual catenary ridgelines and sets up with four stakes (with the option of using two more with side guyouts). It provides full perimeter bug netting for complete bug protection and a front door that opens in an inverted “T” and stows away with Velcro tabs.

Included with the shelter are the tent body with attached floor, silnylon tent stuff sack, rear hoop pole and front strut (both Easton 7075 aluminum), four stakes, and a silnylon stake pouch. Single or dual front poles are available for those that don’t use trekking poles.

With some practice, setting up the Rainshadow 2 is possible in just a few minutes. The rear pole easily slides into a rear sleeve and is held in place by a grommet on each side. After staking the rear, the front pole is inserted into a grommet and erected with a single guyline. Corner guylines are staked and tensioned. Finally the rear hoop is repositioned to even out the sidewall tension by moving it back slightly. Unlike earlier Tarptents which required restaking for tension adjustments, all Tarptents now have guyline adjusters at the front guyline attachments that make proper tensioning (and nighttime adjustments) very easy.

At just over 2 ½ pounds, the Rainshadow 2 provides comfortable living space for three large adults. The flat top and dual ridgelines caused by the front strut increase headroom dramatically and the more vertical sidewalls add to the usable space. While it’s pushing it to say that three adults can sit up comfortably, it is roomy enough for two to sit up side by side. With the floating floor design it is easy to increase the front height of the tent using extendable trekking poles, further increasing headroom and usable space.

Some “three-person tents” would be more accurately titled “two-and-a-half person tents,” but that is not the case for the Tarptent Rainshadow 2. With a total covered area of 54.5 square feet and a floor area of 39.7 square feet, the Rainshadow 2 proved to be a comfortable living space for three when I shared the tent with two other full-size guys during an extended mountain bike tour.

Two inside pockets provide storage for small items and in clear conditions, the mesh area alongside the tent outside of the bathtub floor provides tons of extra storage.

The dual ridgelines make a difference in wind stability when compared to the original Tarptent Rainshadow. When using only one pole for front support, the strut allows more side to side sway during moderate winds. Due to the larger tent body, this is more of an issue with the Rainshadow 2 than the Squall 2. Using two poles in the front increases wind stability dramatically. I definitely prefer two poles, especially when camping above the tree line. While this is not a shelter for high winds, the Rainshadow can definitely handle moderate winds by using two front poles, staking it lower to the ground, and using the side guyout points.

Using a single pole also places pressure on the top point of the vestibule fabric. This is unavoidable when using a single pole or trekking pole and induces extra wear on that point, resulting in some fabric stretching and, over time, may cause durability issues. A redesign or extra reinforcement is needed in this area for use with a single pole. This issue is easily eliminated by using dual poles for front support.

Like the Squall 2, the floating bathtub floor of the Rainshadow 2 is a huge improvement over previous Tarptent floor designs. The floor is attached at the corners with elastic cords that give the protection of a bathtub floor while adding no tension to the main tent body. The result is a floor that stays drier in splashing rain and stays cleaner in dusty conditions than in previous models. The design has adjustable tension, works perfectly, and is brilliant in its simplicity.

For those that prefer floorless shelters, a floorless model is still available that has bug netting that tucks underneath a groundsheet and saves 8 ounces. However, those that live in rainy environments should seriously consider the floored model because it addresses a major problem with earlier Squalls and floorless models – splashing rain.

In rainy conditions, the Rainshadow 2 provides full protection for all three hikers, even during total downpours. In these conditions, though, the small 8.7 square foot beak-style vestibule gets a bit small for storing three sets of gear and some items will have to be pulled inside. The vestibule is easily pitched by releasing Velcro tabs on the sides, attaching them together with Velcro at the center, and affixing the bungee loop to the adjustable guyline clip. Getting the center Velcro lined up properly is somewhat challenging, especially from inside the shelter.

Ventilation in the Rainshadow 2 is very good for a single wall tent. In conditions with even a slight breeze, the full perimeter mesh and mesh front door provide good airflow that keeps things dry. When bugs are not a problem, leaving the mesh doors open eliminates any possibility of condensation. In still, high-humidity conditions, condensation becomes more of an issue, especially with three heavy breathers. However, moisture is easily managed; condensation that accumulates on the tent walls runs down and drips outside of the floor area (another bonus for the bathtub floor design). When condensation occurs and three people are sharing the tent, it is harder to not bump against the wet walls.

Durability of the Tarptent Rainshadow 2 was never an issue during field testing but extra care is needed when using silnylon shelters. If you keep fire away from the tent and make sure not to pitch it on rough surfaces such as sharp stubs or rock, a Tarptent will give years of reliable performance in the field. As previously mentioned, my only concern came from fabric stress resulting from using a single pole for front support.

I’m not big on the tube-shaped stuffsacks that come with Tarptents. I find the tube-shape is difficult to stuff. Removal of the front strut is critical when stuffing the tent but a better approach is to roll the tent.

While the Tarptent Rainshadow 2 is a brilliant three-person, three-season single wall shelter, it has a few imperfections. The beak found in earlier Tarptents was one piece that attached permanently at one side and attached to the other with a Velcro strip. The beak of the Rainshadow 2, though, splits down the middle and secures in the center with a long strip of Velcro. While this gives the additional flexibility of leaving just one-half of the vestibule closed, it is also more difficult to neatly close because the Velcro strips have to be aligned under tension. This was not a big deal but was a little annoying at times.

Like the Squall 2, another aspect of the vestibule design is the addition of a front vent. While the front corner of the tent can now be left open to aid in ventilation, the lack of a stiffened brim or flap means that the vent also allows rain to enter the vestibule area. I would consider the front vent more of a work in progress than a functional vent.

What’s Unique

The refinements in the Tarptent Rainshadow 2 make it a nearly perfect ultralight three-person, three-season single wall shelter. The dual pole/dual ridgeline, floating bathtub floor, adjustable front guylines, and extended beak are excellent features that add to the usability of the tent. Like the Squall 2, the Rainshadow 2 is a marvelous design.

Recommendations for Improvement

I would like to see a design change with the vestibule and front vent. A wire-stiffened brim or a vent support would make the vent fully functional in all conditions. If the option of a single pole for front support is available, there should also be changes made in the vestibule so the pole doesn’t place extra stress on the fabric.

Introduction

Hilleberg calls the two-person Rajd (pronounced “ride”) “more than a tarp, yet not quite a true tent.” We call it a single wall tent. It’s made of Hilleberg’s superb Kerlon 1200, which is a high tenacity ripstop nylon triple coated with silicone. It weighs slightly more than standard silnylon, but is more durable and weatherproof. So, how does the Rajd perform under different field conditions, and how does it compare with its competitors?

What’s Good

• Very lightweight two-person shelter, only 2.2 pounds
• Quality materials and construction
• Quick setup
• Easy entry/exit
• Two doors with beaks
• Loads of headroom and usable space
• Very durable and weatherproof

What’s Not So Good

• Inadequate ventilation
• Very prone to condensation
• No vestibules or inside pockets

Specifications

Performance

The materials and construction of the Hilleberg Rajd are first-class. Hilleberg’s proprietary Kerlon 1200 tent fabric is a high-tenacity ripstop nylon coated on both sides with a total of three layers of silicone. It has a very high tear strength (26 pounds) and is very waterproof, yet it weighs only slightly more than standard silnylon (1.47 oz/yd² compared to 1.3 oz/yd²). All seams are flat-felled and double stitched using treated thread, and do not require seam sealing. The 2 millimeter guylines are made of Spectra fibers interwoven with polyester fibers.

Setting up the Rajd is as easy as a Tarptent. Lay the tent out in the desired location, stake the four corners of the floor, insert trekking poles set to 45 inches (115 centimeters, handles up) in pockets under the beaks and stake out the sides, and then extend the guyline system on the ends and stake it out.

The Rajd comes with ten aluminum alloy square pegs, each with a cord loop to pull them out. All ten stakes (four on the floor, two on the sides, and four on the ends), are required for a secure pitch. The tent can be pitched with six stakes (by not staking the floor), but the end walls do not assume their proper shape and wind can easily lift the floor. As an alternative to trekking poles, the Rajd can be pitched with sticks about 45 inches long, or can be tied between two trees. I was able to pitch the Rajd with 51-inch fixed length trekking poles by angling them out at the bottom.

On my first trip with the Rajd I pitched it on a slight slope and spent the night sliding around on its slick floor. I should have known better. I normally paint silicone stripes on an ordinary silnylon tent floor, and Hilleberg’s Kerlon 1200 fabric is just as slick as silnylon. After I applied the anti-slide treatment I had no further problems.

The Rajd is very roomy inside because the ceiling width is the same as the floor width, making the side walls vertical. The end walls are also quite steep, so all of the interior space is usable. With 45 inches of interior height and 100 inches of interior length, the Rajd is an excellent tent for taller people. Its 48 inch floor width is a bit narrow for a two-person tent, but the side walls easily expand out and there is plenty of elbow room, so the narrow width is not really an issue.

Storm Worthiness

A fellow Backpacking Light Editor used the Rajd through two hailstorms and one snowstorm in the Montana mountains, and reported no damage or problems at all. The Rajd’s tough skin and secure pitch easily deflected dime-sized hailstones and took a 2-inch dusting of snow in stride.

In the Southern Rockies, I tested the Rajd in prolonged steady rain, some light winds, and some cold nights down to 22 F. I also had no problems whatsoever with the Rajd’s ability to protect me from the elements.

Our main issue with the Rajd is condensation. The Rajd’s ventilation options are very limited: a small mesh panel on each side, tying back one side of the beak, unzipping the doors and letting them hang in place, or tying the doors completely open. The first three options are inadequate, unless there is a good breeze from the side. The last option (door completely open) is only usable in good weather when bugs are not a problem. Bottom line, it’s hard to have good storm protection, bug protection, and ventilation at the same time in the Rajd.

In the field, there were no occasions when I didn’t have condensation (or frost) inside the Rajd. With the doors zipped, the mesh panels do not provide enough cross ventilation, and the Rajd is a condensation chamber. Even with the doors completely open on a still night, I still had a lot of condensation on the inside walls. I found that the beaks protected the doors enough in a steady rain so I could leave them open, but not with wind-driven rain. The doors are not designed so the top half can be folded down. Overall, condensation management in the Rajd is a good absorbent pack towel to wipe the walls.

Assessment

The Rajd is a dichotomy. On the one hand it gets very high marks for light weight, quality materials and construction, ease of setup, interior space and headroom, and storm worthiness. On the other hand it bombs on ventilation, resulting in more interior condensation than other single wall tents I have tested. My experience with the Rajd reaffirmed how important ventilation is in a single wall tent. A good single wall tent design makes major use of mesh in end and side wall panels for flow-through ventilation, and adds high vents to create a chimney effect. With some major design changes to improve ventilation, the Rajd’s condensation problem could be overcome, and it could be a strong contender in the single wall tent market.

What’s Unique

Hilleberg’s proprietary Kerlon 1200 fabric is only slightly heavier than standard silnylon, yet is stronger and more weatherproof.

Recommendations for Improvement

The Hilleberg Rajd uses quality materials and construction and is well-designed in all ways except ventilation. With some modifications to improve ventilation, the Rajd could be very competitive with other popular lightweight single wall tents, specifically:

• Add mesh panels to the end walls under the flange that attaches to the guyout system
• Add high vents near the ridgeline
• Extend the side beaks so they function as vestibules, and use mesh for the entry walls

Introduction

The Gossamer Gear / Tarptent Squall Classic is a collaborative effort to create the lightest floored two-person shelter available. By combining the original triangular-front Tarptent design, the current floating bathtub floor, and lightweight spinnaker and silnylon fabrics, the Squall Classic delivers the usability, storm resistance, and ventilation of a Squall, while trimming the weight of the Squall 2 by 7 ounces. Add a pair of Fibraplex carbon fiber poles and you’ve got the lightest floored two-person shelter out there! Is the Squall Classic a through-hiker’s dream or can it be even lighter?

What’s Good

• At 1 pound 8.9 ounces, it’s very lightweight for a single wall shelter with floor
• With a Fibraplex pole, the tent weighs an even 1 ½ pounds and has an area to weight ratio of 1.62 – the highest of any floored shelter we’ve reviewed!
• Enough space for two full-sized adults
• Floating bathtub floor protects from splashing rain and is more durable than tensioned floors because it resists punctures
• Beak-style vestibule offers good protection while still allowing airflow
• Door and beak are easily rolled up for full ventilation and views
• New guyline adjusters are simple, lightweight, and easy to use

What’s Not So Good

• Not as much headroom as the Tarptent Squall 2
• Old-style Tarptent vestibule attachment is simple but lacks adjustability of new Tarptent designs
• Spinnaker cloth is a little noisy when new (but gets quieter with use)
• Condensation issues in still, high humidity conditions

Specifications

Specifications: Fibraplex Poles

Introduction

Fibraplex carbon fiber tent poles are lightweight replacements for stock aluminum tent poles. On the two sets tested, the Fibraplex poles cut the weight of poles by 33 to 43 percent and offered comparable stiffness to the stock poles. For those looking to cut ounces, Fibraplex poles are worth a close look.

What’s Good

• Lighter than stock poles by 33 to 43 percent (in the two sets tested)
• Comparable stiffness to DAC Featherlite 8.84 millimeter outer diameter poles (stock Black Diamond Lighthouse)
• Comparable flexibility and strength to aluminum models
• Good customer support with quick replacements (if needed)
• Pole sets available for many tents as well as custom poles
• Reasonably priced for shelters with fewer poles ($52 for a two-pole Gossamer Gear/Tarptent Squall Classic)

What’s Not So Good

• Not quite as stiff as Easton 7075 poles (stock on a Gossamer Gear/Tarptent Squall Classic)
• Need to use caution with ferrules – if not seated properly, they are a weak point
• If overstressed they will break instead of bending
• More expensive for shelters with more or longer length poles ($130 for the three-pole Black Diamond Lighthouse)

Specifications

Performance

The Fibraplex Fibrapole 292 poles are direct replacements for stock aluminum tent poles and are the only replacement carbon fiber poles available. They are available from Fibraplex (who also manufactures carbon fiber poles and cord for non-outdoor purposes) in pre-made sets for specific tents as well as in custom configurations for any shelter or tarp (including those with hubs such as the MSR Hubba Hubba and Big Agnes Seedhouse tents).

I tested Fibrapole 292 sets in two configurations: as a stock replacement set for the Black Diamond Lighthouse and as a custom set for the Gossamer Gear/Tarptent Squall Classic.

The first reason for selecting Fibraplex poles is weight reduction as compared to aluminum models. The Fibraplex Fibrapole 292 poles dropped 1.6 ounces off of the Gossamer Gear/Tarptent Squall Classic and 6.9 ounces from the Black Diamond Lighthouse. That is a weight savings of 33 and 42 percent, respectively, over stock sets.

The poles came with the correct tips and fit easily into both applications. The sizing for both shelters was just right producing fabric tension that was identical to the stock poles. Like the aluminum sets, the Fibrapole 292 poles are shock-corded and sized for easy storage. The only hassle was that the aluminum connecter tips were wider than the poles, causing them to snag in the pole sleeve of the Squall Classic. However, this was only a minor nuisance and by correctly pushing the pole out of the sleeve (instead of pulling it), there was no problem at all.

Stiffness of the Fibrapole 292 poles proved to be right in the ballpark when compared to aluminum poles. The Fibraplex models were of similar stiffness to the DAC Featherlite poles that came with the Black Diamond Lighthouse but a bit more flexible than the Easton 7075 models. When arched into a hoop application, the extra flexibility made little difference in the field. When used non-arched, such as the front pole of the Gossamer Gear/Tarptent Squall Classic, the pole bent under load more easily than the stock Easton model. This was only a problem when pitching the tent with high tension, however there’s no doubt that the Easton poles are stiffer in this application.

Because the Fibrapole 292 poles are so much lighter than aluminum models, I had initial concerns about the poles’ durability. Because of this Fibraplex sent me a complete extra pole section and several replacement segments to test for failure. I found that failures with the poles always occurred at the ferrule/pole junction where the carbon fiber split. Breakage of this kind was only possible with improper use or stressing the poles far beyond their reasonable range. During several tests, I was able to bend a 120 inch length until the tips actually touched before breakage occurred. When overstressing a shorter pole (such as the 73.5 inch Tarptent hoop pole), breakage occurred in a smaller arc but still one that was much more extreme than was required for the application.

When I inquired about the frequency of pole breakage, Fibraplex informed me that most breakages occur when ferrules are not fully inserted into the poles. My tests backed up that statistic; partially inserted ferrules resulted in pole breakage with far less bending than fully inserted ferrules. The bottom line: Fibraplex poles are strong enough as long as you make sure the ferrules are properly inserted and you don’t stress the poles far beyond what’s required for your application. But unlike aluminum poles, these carbon poles break instead of bend.

In the field, durability was never a factor. I used these poles in a variety of settings over several months with no issues at all. This includes pitching the Lighthouse on the Emmons Glacier on a climb of Mount Rainier. During moderate winds with 30-40 mph gusts, I had no problems, except for a minor increase in tent deflection (lean). By effectively guying out the tent I was able to greatly reduce this tendency to lean in high winds. With reasonable usage, I would trust these poles in far more extreme conditions than those experienced on Rainier; with proper guying out of the tent and clearing of heavy snow loads, the Fibrapole 292 poles will hold up just fine.

At $130 for the Black Diamond Lighthouse pole set and $52 for the Tarptent setup, Fibraplex Fibrapole 292 carbon fiber tent poles are a relatively expensive investment that doesn’t add much to the functionality of a shelter. But for us ounce-counters, Fibraplex poles are a good way to cut shelter weight without much (if any) sacrifice in strength or stability. At $32.50 per ounce of weight saved for the Tarptent and $18.84 per ounce for the Lighthouse, the question of whether or not Fibraplex poles are worth it is up to you.

What’s Unique

Fibraplex makes the only carbon fiber replacement tent poles that you can purchase, thus offering the only ticket to making your tent lighter. (While Easton also makes carbon fiber poles, they are not available aftermarket.) Fibraplex also offers custom setups, making them usable with most any shelter.

Recommendations for Improvement

While Fibraplex Fibrapoles are well built and high quality, I would like to see the following changes:

1. More robust offerings for mountaineering or winter applications.

2. A tapered design that places more material at the weak point – the ends of the pole shafts. This would be a positive step toward making the poles a little more durable.

3. Finally, a less expensive price would make Fibraplex poles a better value.

Introduction

The Crescent Moon Silver 10 Backcountry snowshoes are wider and longer to provide more flotation for soft snow conditions or carrying a backpack. Like all Crescent Moon snowshoes, they feature a pronounced teardrop shape for easier walking (so you are less likely to step on one snowshoe with the other). Features I especially like are their three crampon system (which adds a toe crampon for climbing), and single pull loop tightening system on the bindings. As for weight, 4 pounds per pair isn’t bad for 10-inch by 32-inch snowshoes, but a half pound lighter would be better.

What’s Good

• Good balance of traction, lightweight, and durability
• Teardrop shape allows easy walking
• Foot Glove binding provides precise foot placement
• Single Pull Loop tightening system evenly secures the toe area
• Three crampon system (including a toe crampon) provides excellent traction
• Excellent climbing ability and flotation
• Very stiff and durable frame
• Bindings flatten well for packing

What’s Not So Good

• 4 lb/pair is not bad for a 32-inch snowshoe, but I would prefer them to be a half pound lighter
• One rivet on a binding came off and required replacement
• Clear decking on the front shows fine scratches and discolorations
• Bindings allow the heels to float too much, especially on sidehills

Specifications

Performance

What really sets Crescent Moon snowshoes apart from the others is their exaggerated teardrop frame that is claimed to accommodate a natural stride and eliminate hip flexor irritation that occurs with larger, more traditionally shaped snowshoes. The Silver 10 Backcountry model is 10 inches wide and 32 inches long for extra flotation. They set my feet further apart compared to a traditional 8-inch wide snowshoe, but the teardrop shape helped with my stride so the snowshoes were not stepping on each other.

The frame on all Crescent Moon snowshoes is TIG (Tungsten Induced Gas) welded at the tail for extra strength. I found the longer 32-inch frame of the Silver 10 to be extremely stiff, with no twist whatsoever. The curved front is fairly short, which puts more of the snowshoe’s surface flat on the snow for good flotation. Also, the frame is polished, not painted, so there is no anodizing or paint to scratch. After several months of testing I could only detect a few small scratches on the frame.

The Foot Glove binding is close to a step-in. It consists of a foot encompassing polyurethane stirrup holding two Hypalon straps with ladder lock buckles on the front and a heel strap with a cam-locking buckle. The Single Pull Loop tightening system is a loop of Hypalon attached to the two ladder locks on the front; all you have to do is pull each end of the loop to tighten the toe area. The heel secures just as easily with a pull of the strap. The binding is fairly lightweight, secures your foot securely and aligns it properly, lays flat for packing, and is easy to enter/exit. The only flaw was a lost rivet that required replacement.

The main decking looks and feels like Hypalon, but Crescent Moon calls it TGS (which stands for "The Good Stuff!"), which is described as a blend of PVC and neoprene capable of withstanding -40 F temperatures and more abrasion and tear resistant than Hypalon. I can agree with the durability claim; I barely put a scratch on it. The decking on the upcurved front of the snowshoe is another story. The translucent decking there is DuPont Surlyn, which is apparently the same material used to coat golf balls. There doesn’t seem to be any problem with its strength, but after a few months of use it shows a lot of fine scratches and discolorations and looks unattractive.

Another unique feature of Crescent Moon snowshoes is their three crampon system, with crampons at the toe, ball of the foot, and heel. The toe crampon is very functional because each time you take a step, it maintains a grip on the snow when you push off and transfer weight to the other foot. And of course a toe crampon is very helpful for climbing. I found the Silver 10s would climb slopes so steep I had to hold on with my hands.

The Silver 10 uses a conventional pivot strap system, which is a very strong and flexible band that attaches to the foot plate and wraps around both sides of the frame. The pivot strap has a moderate torsion that does not cause the snowshoes to snap up and hit the bottom of your foot with each step, flipping snow on your back.

In Use

The Silver 10s perform very well in a variety of snow conditions. Their extra surface area provides plenty of flotation, even when carrying a backpack. They are quite maneuverable in spite of their longer length, which is attributable to their foot forward design and fixed pivot system. Their climbing ability is superb thanks to the three crampon system. The Silver 10s hold their own on sidehills, but the bindings does not “lock down” my heels very well, so there is some sideways twist. On steep downhills I can lean forward on the Silver 10s a little more than with other snowshoes to prevent tobogganing. When the slope gets steeper than about 35-40 degrees, it is hard to avoid going into a controlled slide, but glissading on snowshoes is a lot of fun.

In snow with a thin crust, the front of the snowshoes has a tendency to catch on the crust, which is a bit cumbersome. Slightly more upturn in the front will avoid this problem.

I like the balance of these snowshoes; the balance point is near the front so the snowshoes don’t feel as long as they are. But they are not front heavy (meaning the front dips down); rather the pivot strap lifts the front of the snowshoe up and positions the snowshoe at a proper angle to facilitate a smooth gait.

One issue I have with the Silver 10 is with tracking; my heels have a tendency to turn inward. I am pronated, so basically I am saying that the binding does not hold my feet in proper alignment in spite of my pronation. The result is walking slightly duck-footed. Users with normal feet may not have this problem.

Assessment

Overall, the Crescent Moon Silver 10s are nicely designed, reasonably lightweight, good performing backcountry snowshoes. They have exceptional climbing ability and flotation. The exaggerated teardrop shape definitely helps to maintain a normal stride, although the 10-inch width still places the legs a little farther apart than 8-inch snowshoes. The wider stance is noticeable but not a problem. The bindings are very user friendly, light, and compressible for packing, but they allow the heels to float a bit, which is most noticeable on sidehills. Lastly, the Silver 10’s are solidly built of durable materials; my only reservation being a rivet that fell out of one of the bindings.

What’s Unique

The Silver 10 Backcountry (and other Crescent Moon models) snowshoes have an exaggerated teardrop shape to facilitate a normal stride, and have a three crampon system to provide excellent traction. The frame is TIG welded at the tail and is very strong and solid.

Recommendations for Improvement

I commend Crescent Moon for the continual improvements and refinements they have made in their snowshoes. Overall, I am very pleased with the design and performance of the Silver 10 Backcountry snowshoes. However, I have a few suggestions for improvements that might be worth considering:

• Since our magazine is focused on lightweight backcounty travel, it’s not surprising that I recommend making them lighter by at least half a pound.
• The translucent Surlyn decking on the front of the snowshoe seems to be adequately durable, but it gets discolored after a few months of use. I suggest going to a brighter color so it is easy to see the front of the snowshoes in powder snow.
• Finally, I recommend a little better appearance and quality control on the rivet work.