Articles (2020) - Page 104 of 144

2006 Jacks ‘R’ Better Nest Quilt SPOTLITE REVIEW

A well-designed under quilt that integrates beautifully with Hennessy hammocks.

Overview

2006 Jacks ‘R’ Better Nest Quilt SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
The Jacks ‘R’ Better Nest is a rectangular quilt with a slit and Omnitape strips that attach directly to Hennessy hammocks.

The Jacks ‘R’ Better Nest is an under quilt for use with Hennessy hammocks. It is similar to the No Sniveler quilt that ranked first in the BackpackingLight Unconventional Sleep Systems Review Summary. Unlike the No Sniveler, though, the Nest has a ½ length vertical opening with Omnitape fasteners. These hook and loop fasteners align with the Velcro entrances of the Hennessy Ultralight Backpacker and Hyperlight Backpacker, making it easy to enter and exit the hammock when using the Nest as an under quilt. While the hammock entrance no longer seals with Velcro when using the Nest in this way, the weight of the user secures the entrance firmly. A JRB Suspension System which includes elastic cords and mini-carabiners for attachment to the ends of the hammock and loops are aligned for use with Hennessy side guyouts.

2006 Jacks ‘R’ Better Nest Quilt SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
The Omnitape fasteners attach directly to the Hennessy Hyperlight Backpacker Asym, making it an integrated part of the hammock system.

The Nest is constructed with a 1.1 ounce rip-stop nylon shell with DWR treatment and 800+ fill power down. While the manufacturer claims 2 inches of loft, I measured a full 2.5 inches.

2006 Jacks ‘R’ Better Nest Quilt SPOTLITE REVIEW - 3
A JRB Suspension System is included with the Nest for attachment to the ends of a hammock. Also shown here is the Jacks ‘R’ Better Weather Shield for extra wet weather protection (not included).

Besides its use a dedicated under quilt, the Nest can also be worn as a vest by wrapping it around your body. It also has Omnitape strips to form a footbox for use as an top quilt. Drawcords at the foot and neck allow for adjustability when used as an under quilt as well as to create a footbox and neck collar when using it as a top quilt.

The Nest is available on its own or as a part of the Jacks ‘R’ Better Basic 3 Season and Ultimate 4 Season Hammock Quilt Sets. Like other Jacks ‘R’ Better products, the Nest is available only with a kelly green outer and black interior.

Look for a full review of the Jacks ‘R’ Better Ultimate 4 Season Hammock Quilt Set in late winter.

Features and Specifications

Weight (long): 21.9 oz (621 g); mfr claimed 20 oz (567 g)
Size (measured): 46 in x 73 in (117 cm x 185 cm); mfr claimed 48 in x 78 in (122 cm x 198 cm)
Materials: 1.1 ounce rip-stop nylon with DWR treatment, no-see-um netting used in box baffles
Insulation: 800+ fill power down
Loft: 2.5 in of single layer loft (mfr claimed 2 in)
Features: 3 under quilt attachment points, neck drawstring with dual sliders, foot drawstring with dual sliders, Omnitape hammock entrance attachment
Accessories: silnylon compression stuff sack: 1.3 oz (31 g) included, JRB Suspension System available for hammock under-quilt use: 1.1 oz (37 g) included
MSRP: $239.95

MSR Titan Kettle SPOTLITE REVIEW

A reasonably light two-man titanium kettle – very light, works well, but not very low cost.

Overview

Something which never ceases to intrigue me are the different uses of the word ‘kettle’. For most of the world it means something with a traditional tea-pot shape with a handle over the top, but in America it so often means something like a large cup with a lid and a handle on the side – and a faint spout. Never mind: as long as it boils water and pours nicely into my coffee cup.

MSR Titan kettle and morning coffee (brewed!) in the snow

The MSR Titan Kettle easily holds enough water for two people for tea and coffee – which is good because that’s what we have every morning about 10 am when my wife and I are walking. Actually, we only need about 0.6 litre for this, so the 0.85 litre capacity of this kettle means we don’t have ‘boiling over’ problems. This is good.

The fold-out wire handles are fairly good for pouring: once you hold the two wires together the arrangement is very stable. The lid is a suitably tight fit – I am not sure how they manage that. The little red handle on the lid can be stood upright to keep the plastic coating away from the lid, which is cute although as you can see from the pictures I usually forget to do this. There is a hole in the lid for the steam to come out. It is not really needed for the steam as the steam can always come out the spout, but it is needed for pouring.

There is always a bit of a competition over light-weight pots and kettles. The MSR Titan Kettle does very well in this race at 88 grams (3.10 oz), but the weight of the lid at 35 g (1.23 oz) drags it down. On the other hand, something like the very light AntiGravityGear 3-cup pot offers greater diameter for better heat transfer, far lower cost, and comes in at about 107 grams (3.8 oz) including the lid. The new Backpacking Light FireLite pots promise to be even lighter (only the 0.5 litre (1 pt) version was available at the time of writing).

Field Testing

I used to use a more conventional Trangia aluminium kettle but it weighs 190 grams (6.70 oz). In the drive for light weight this MSR Titan Kettle has managed to displace it. Actually, while I like the conventional shape of my old aluminium kettle, it lacks some of the versatility this MSR Titan Kettle offers. I can cook and prepare food in this kettle: something I couldn’t do with the more conventional shape. For instance, if I want to make mashed potato to go with a stew, I can boil the right amount of water in this kettle and mix the mashed potato into the water in the kettle. This makes this MSR Titan Kettle more versatile, which is good.

I found that the fold-out wire handles have to be treated with some caution: they can get a bit hot after the kettle has been on the stove for a while. This isn’t as bad as you might think. I can always use a handkerchief to hold the wires, but very often I find the wires are not that hot right at the top of the handle anyhow. Also, once I have grabbed the wire handles and absorbed a bit of the heat from them, they remain cool. There is not the high thermal conductivity along the titanium wires as with aluminium for instance. Of course, in the snow country I just poke the wire handles with a lump of snow for a moment and then they are easily cool enough to be held.

A big difference between the conventional tea-pot design and the MSR Titan Kettle design is the spout. With the ‘conventional’ tea-pot design you get a real spout which (usually) pours very well. The spout on this kettle pours moderately well, but you do get some dribbles. This means you have to be a little careful about where you pour: not over your sleeping bag for a start! The dribbling seems to be worst when the kettle is most full.

MSR Titan Kettle boiling up water for soup for dinner for two

Water coming to the boil in this kettle is both audible and visible. The hard titanium metal seems to make the bubbling noises very audible – some time before the actual boiling happens. I had to learn to ignore this. Once the water reaches boiling there is some steam out the spout, and a very obvious and cute plume of steam out the small hole in the lid. I am not sure this latter plume has any real value, but it does let you know when the Kettle boils. While on the subject of this little hole, I should add that the lid should be placed so the hole is furthest from the spout: this allows air to enter while you are pouring. If you don’t do this the pouring can be a bit ‘random’.

I did try replacing the MSR titanium lid (35 g, 1.23 oz) with cooking foil, but since the Kettle is used for bringing water to the boil this didn’t work all that well. It got a little messy at times so I decided to stick with the ‘official’ lid.

MSR claims the titanium used has a low surface porosity which minimises food sticking. While I have done only a small amount of cooking in this Kettle, I have not found any problems with food sticking. Granted, I cook over a moderately low flame – more of a simmer than a blow-torch. But then, I didn’t have any problems cooking in the MSR Titan pots either. When cooking this way you need to hold the handles at the top, to avoid heat from the stove. This works OK.

The MSR Titan Kettle is a little tall compared to the pots in the MSR Titan Mini Cookset but not as tall as some others like the Snow Peak kettle for instance. You may need a spoon with a decent handle for comfortable cooking and eating out of this pot rather than one of the very short Sporks. I find a conventional-sized Lexan spoon works fine with this kettle.

Solo Use

So far I have talked about this kettle in a two person context, because I normally go walking with my wife. But it is quite large enough to serve as a complete one-man cooking pot for dinner, kettle and cup for drinks, and it is large enough for melting snow for one person even. One caution about using it as a cup is in order: with hot drinks you need to watch out for the conductivity of the metal. Yes, the conductivity of titanium is low, but tilting the cup to drink means that the hot water reheats the metal at the edge each time. I found that I could avoid burning my lip by very gently placing the curled edge against my lip: the curled edge but not the main wall. I guess using it instead of my 23 gram (0.81 oz) plastic cup would save some weight, but the hassles of drinking out of it are such that I haven’t gone that far.

Specifications

Manufacturer	MSR
Year/Model	2006 – Titan Kettle
Material	Titanium
Handles	Titanium wire, folding
Capacity	0.85 L
Weight	* Kettle body: 88 g (3.10 oz) * Lid 35 g (1.23 oz) * Total: 123 g (4.34 oz)
MSRP	US$39.95

What’s Good

The low weight and simple design of the MSR Titan Kettle for its volume
The snug-fitting lid which doesn’t fall off
The handles are strong but fold away flat to the surface of the kettle
The handles don’t seem to get too hot
The lid fits snugly

What’s Not So Good

It isn’t cheap!
The lid could certainly be a bit lighter
The spout dribbles a little when the kettle is full

Recommendations for Improvement

A much lighter lid

Reduce the cost if possible

MSR Titan Mini Cookset SPOTLITE REVIEW

A reasonably minimal titanium cookset – very light, works well, but not very low cost. Take just one pot?

Overview

One might wonder how much can be said about a set of cooking pots, even ones made of titanium. Indeed, the MSR Titan Mini Cookset has very few features to talk about, at least on the surface. But that is part of their virtue: they have no frills at all and their design seems to be focused entirely on function – and minimum weight.

There are two pots in the set: a 1 litre pot at 81 grams (2.86 oz) and a 1.5 litre pot at 115 grams (4.06 oz). There is a tight-fitting lid (58 grams, 2.05 oz) for the 1.5 litre pot as well. The lid is deep enough that you could use it as a flat plate or shallow bowl. The pots have no brackets, lugs or handles but MSR provides a small lightweight pot lifter with the set which grips the rolled rim of these pots very securely.

The large pot comes with a lid with a red plastic coated pop-up handle, but there is no lid for the small pot. I have been using a light foil lid for the small pot quite successfully. This weighs about 9 grams (0.3 oz). I imagine I could even use a bit of aluminium cooking foil at negligible weight, but I have not tried that yet.

MSR Titan Mini Cookset REVIEW - 1 MSR Titan 1.5 L pot cooking dinner on a river bank, inside a Backpacking Light Ti foil windshield.

Field Testing

The only really good test of a pot is how well it cooks dinner. Sure, the light weight is an important factor in deciding whether to include such a pot in your gear list, but if the pot is hard to use in the field the weight won’t save it. I was concerned about the ease of use because there I had read stories about how the very thin-walled titanium pots burn the dinner. So during my testing I have cooked many dinners in these pots, under both temperate lowland conditions and up in the Australian Alps in the snow.

I found that I could burn food in one of these very thin-walled MSR Titan Cookset pots a little more easily than in a thicker-walled Teflon-lined aluminium pot such as the GSI Bugaboo pot or the GSI HAE pot. Well, that seems eminently reasonable after all. But to actually burn the dinner I had to break a couple of my standard rules of cooking. I was able to do it by boiling a mix of instant soup and rice without stirring, and this is just asking for trouble! Just bringing a stew (rice, meat and vegetables) to the boil, without any cornflour thickening, proved to be quite safe. In my experience, it’s the gelatinous goo created by the cornflour found in instant soups and ‘stew flavourings’ that causes the burning problem – at least for my style of cooking. Instead I bring the main ingredients of the stew to the boil, then turn the stove off, mix in the instant soup or other flavourings, stir briefly, put the lid back on to keep the steam in and let the whole lot cook without further heat. Doing it this way I have never burnt the dinner.

On the one occasion when I managed to get the dinner to start to stick and burn, I did not let the mess go too far. I certainly did not take it to the ‘layer of char’ stage! Yes, this was actually deliberate, for the purpose of this Review. I was able to scrape the brown goo off the bottom of the titanium pot with just a Lexan spoon, and no marks were left behind. Clearly, the surface of the MSR Titan Mini Cookset pots is fairly non-porous. Not as non-stick as a Teflon-style coating maybe, but still pretty good.

I do not try to fry foods at high temperature when walking. That way lies all sorts of cleaning problems. I limit my cooking to the temperature of boiling water and avoid using significant quantities of fats, and this has meant that I am able to rinse these MSR Titan Cookset pots clean with a little hot water. This means I use less water for washing up (an advantage at dry camps), I need less fuel to heat the washing up water, and it takes less time as well.

The pot lifter (or MSR LiteLifter) supplied is small and neat, although it would be nice if MSR could remove the sharp points on the gripping section. However, they have not caused any real problems for me, and the aluminium is softer than the titanium so they can’t damage the pots. The red insulated handles work very well, and the lifter holds both sizes of pot quite firmly for stirring the dinner or ladling it out. Interestingly, while you can’t buy the pots individually, you can buy the LiteLifter by itself. However, I don’t always need the lifter as the titanium walls have a low thermal mass and are poor conductors of heat. I can often pick the pot up by the rim in my bare hands, without getting burnt. Yeah, it can be hot for just a moment. Maybe there are some advantages to the low conductivity?

MSR Titan Mini Cookset REVIEW - 1 MSR Titan 1.5 L pot cooking dinner in the snow, with foil lid, inside a Trail Designs Vari-Vent windshield.

I normally don’t take both pots with me. The 1 litre pot is adequate for dinner for two (my wife and myself), but I have to be just a little bit careful stirring the dinner in it. The 1.5 litre pot is always big enough, and I often favour it despite the extra 34 grams (1.2 oz). The lid for the big pot does have a neat handle arrangement: you can make the handle stay upright by sliding it into a notch in the tab anchoring it. That way the red plastic cover on the wire handle does not get hot when the lid is over boiling water. This is cute – but the lid is still too heavy. I don’t take the lid: somehow it just seems to me that 58 grams (2.08 oz) can be better used elsewhere. Instead I take a light circular bit of 0.013 millimetre (0.5 thou) aluminium foil weighing just 10 grams (0.35 oz), and this works very well. I keep the foil lid in place by leaving the MSR LiteLifter on top of it – that way I know where the LiteLifter is as well!

MSR says the titanium lid can also be used as a plate. I tried this once – only. Titanium may be a poor conductor of heat, but when it is that thin the heat travels through well enough. I nearly burnt my fingers trying to hold it with my dinner in it. Combine that problem with the very shallow 20 mm (3/4 in) depth and it was just not realistic.

One consideration which may affect some potential customers is the cost – and the fact that you have to buy the whole Cookset in one go. Well, the price is much higher than for one of the GSI aluminium cooksets mentioned (and even higher than for an AntiGravityGear aluminium pot), and I question whether most walkers really want two pots. A single pot might prove to be more attractive for many. Whether the cost is justified for you however is something only you can decide.

Specifications

Manufacturer	MSR
Year/Model	2006 – Titan Mini Cookset
Material	Titanium (pot lifter is aluminium)
Handles	Plastic insulated for safety
Contents of set	* 1.5 litre pot, 115 g (4.06 oz) * 1 litre pot, 81 g (2.86 oz) * Lid for 1.5 L pot (can be used as a plate), 58 g (2.05 oz) * Small pot lifter, 29 g (1.02 oz) (also available separately at US$14.95) * Carry bag
MSRP	US$89.95

What’s Good

The MSR Titan Cookset pots are very light for their volumes, and have a simple design
The rather neat little MSR LiteLifter pot lifter, which is pretty light too
They don’t burn very easily, despite some claims
The low porosity of the titanium surface, so they clean fairly easily

What’s Not So Good

They are not cheap!
The lid is rather heavy for what it offers

Recommendations for Improvement

A much lighter lid
Remove the spikes from the pot lifter
Reduce the cost if possible – maybe allow single-pot sales

Wingnut Adventure 2006 Backpack REVIEW

Small volume (1600 ci, 26 L) adventure racing pack that is ideal for biking and adequate for hiking.

Introduction

The Wingnut Adventure 2006 is a pack designed for adventure racing. Low slung and centering weight on the hips, it is ideal as a cycling pack and pretty good for hiking and backpacking. With a high-capacity integrated hydration system, multiple pockets, and tough, waterproof materials, this pack is ready for multi-sport abuse.

What’s Good

The low-slung Lowrider harness sits on the hips, making it stellar for cycling
Truly a multi-sport pack – especially for adventure racing
Constructed of super-tough Dimension-Polyant fabrics
Padded mesh backpanels allow for airflow
Separate bladder pocket makes refilling bladders quick and easy
Sidewing pockets are spacious and put more weight on the sides of the hips
Very water resistant with waterproof fabric and zippers

What’s Not So Good

The low-slung Lowrider harness is less comfortable for hiking than cycling
When Sidewing pockets are full, they affect arm swing somewhat when using trekking poles
Optional outside pocket gets in the way of the main mesh pocket
Not the lightest at 25 ounces for a 1600 cubic inch pack

Specifications

Year/Model	Wingnut Adventure 2006
Style	Frameless, panel-loading with integrated Sidewings
Volume	1600 ci (26.2 L)
Weight	Measured weight: 25.0 oz (0.71 kg); manufacturer’s specification 22.0 oz (0.62 kg)
Fabrics	Dimension-Polyant X-Pac: a three-layer laminated, waterproof, tear and abrasion resistant polyester and nylon fabric
Features	Top loading with separate zipped bladder pocket, waterproof zippers, compression lacing system, 1 front and 2 side mesh pockets, Sidewings zippered side pockets, Lowrider harness system, 4 hydration ports, integrated pocket and radio attachment point on the shoulder straps
Volume To Weight Ratio	64.0 ci/oz (based on 1600 ci and a measured weight of 25.0 oz, without options)
Comfortable Load Carrying Capacity	Hiking: 20 pounds (9.1 kg), cycling: 25 pounds (11.3 kg) estimated maximum comfortable load an average person can carry all day in this pack
Carry Load to Pack Weight Ratio	12.8 (based on a 20 lb load and measured weight of 1.56 lb)
MSRP	$130
Options	Mobile Pack (included in cost of pack): clips onto rear of pack, Micro XY add-on pocket $14, optional delrin rod for additional support available

Performance

The Wingnut Adventure 2006 is a pack designed for adventure racing where you are as likely to be on a bike as hiking or running. While typical hiking packs ride too high for cycling, the Adventure 2006 features the Lowrider harness system which allows it to be adjusted to mid-back for hiking or lowered to the hips for cycling.

To fully test this pack in both sports, I used it for ultralight backpacking trips as well as extended mountain biking and short runs. The real test of the pack came when mountain bike touring the 81 mile North Umpqua Trail in Oregon, which included highly technical mountain biking and many extended hike-a-bike sections.

Wingnut Adventure 2006 Backpack REVIEW - 1
The Lowrider harness system sits lower than most packs for hiking (left) and drops below the hips for cycling (right).

The Adventure 2006 is ideal when cycling. By centering the weight on the hips and away from the head and helmet, it stays completely out of the way, even when riding very technical steep rocky sections. When used for hiking, the Lowrider harness can be adjusted to make the pack ride higher on the back – much better for upright backpacking. When adjusted to its highest setting though, the shoulder straps are pulled somewhat together, causing some minor pinching at the shoulders. To remedy this, I adjusted the pack about one inch below its maximum setting but this did put the pack a little lower than is ideal for hiking. The compromise made it the ultimate mountain bike pack, a great choice for adventure racing or hike-a-bikes, but not ideal for backpacking-only.

When running, the pack stays centered and doesn’t move around much and the compression system keeps the load tight against your back.

Wingnut Adventure 2006 Backpack REVIEW - 2
At its maximum height adjustment, the shoulder straps pinch slightly at the shoulders. By lowering it about an inch, the problem disappears.

The Wingnut Adventure 2006 is a panel-loading pack. The main compartment is large enough for a low-volume sleeping bag, food, and clothes for a multi-day trip or race. A separate zippered hydration pouch that is accessible from the outside of the pack makes for quick water refills. The entire pack is constructed out of Dimension-Polyant X-Pac fabric which is waterproof, lightweight, and extremely durable. Despite crashes onto rocks, the pack shows no wear at all. The waterproof fabric and zippers make the pack extremely water resistant; when riding in a downpour, I put waterproof items at the top and they were only slightly damp – everything else was dry.

Wingnut Adventure 2006 Backpack REVIEW - 3
The Adventure 2006 has multiple pockets including (gray arrows, left to right) a separate zippered hydration pocket, a panel-loading main compartment, and an outside mesh pocket with bungee system. The Sidewings (yellow arrows, left to right) have a main zippered pocket and a mesh pocket that’s accessible on the go.

The backpanel has four large padded sections that allow for some airflow to the back. The extra ventilation kept my back cooler than normal during long hikes and rides in hot weather but still provided enough cushion for 20-25 pound loads.

Wingnut Adventure 2006 Backpack REVIEW - 4
The backpanel is comfortable and provides extra ventilation.

The Adventure 2006 is a frameless pack and I found that I could comfortably carry 20 pounds all day when hiking or 25 pounds when cycling. An optional delrin rod is available to add more load-carrying capacity but I did not test this option. The waist belt is 1.5-inch nylon with a heavy duty quick release buckle. The ¾-inch sternum strap features an ITW Nexus integrated whistle/buckle that is the same as those used in Gossamer Gear and Osprey packs – an excellent choice that takes care of a standard safety item (and an adventure racing requirement).

Wingnut Adventure 2006 Backpack REVIEW - 5
The Sidewings are large zippered hip pockets that also include mesh pockets that are accessible on the go. (Notice the tent poles tucked behind the pockets.)

The Wingnut pack features a wide variety of storage options. A front mesh pocket is large enough for a self-inflating sleeping pad and clothes, the external bungee system can easily accommodate jackets, a helmet and other items, and a bottom flap guarantees that larger items won’t fall out. An additional pocket on the left shoulder strap fits an energy bar or two energy gel packets while the right shoulder strap has a slot and grommet designed for a two-way radio. While on a three-day mountain bike tour, I used a Motorola radio constantly and it never fell out of the slot, even during a nasty crash.

A unique element of the Adventure 2006 is the Sidewings, which are large lumbar pockets. The Sidewings can easily accommodate a first aid kit, a handful of energy bars, or a 0.5 liter mini-kettle. Side entry mesh pockets with one-handed adjusters are also found on the Sidewings and can be easily accessed without removing the pack. The Sidewings are only sewn to the main pack in one vertical seam, allowing the wings to better contour to the hips and additional items to be tucked behind them. The Sidewings focus this extra weight on the middle of the hips while allowing a full range of movement.

A downside of the Sidewings is that my arms occasionally brushed them when using trekking poles. However, this was merely annoying and only slightly affected arm swing.

Wingnut Adventure 2006 Backpack REVIEW - 6
Evel Johnson contemplating his next daring record-setting move (left). Despite having four hydration ports, I typically ran the hose up through the zipper for easier refills on the trail.

Being an adventure racing pack, extra attention was paid to the hydration system. The Wingnut pack has a large outside pocket that easily holds a full 3-liter hydration bladder (not included). It has a clip at the top to keep the bladder upright and has a total of four ports for the drinking tube. Two of the ports are along the side of the pack, allowing the tube to be fed up the shoulder strap and avoid the need for a 90 degree bite valve. Two upper ports allow for traditional over the top tube routing on either side. Despite all of these options, I found that it was easier to refill my Platypus bladder with a non-removable hose by feeding the hose out of the zipper of the hydration pocket so I didn’t have to reroute the hose each time. Used this way, the system was excellent for quick refills along the trail.

Wingnut Adventure 2006 Backpack REVIEW - 7
The included Mobile Pack gives an additional external pocket but blocks the front mesh pocket.

The Wingnut pack comes with a removable Mobile Pack that attaches above the outside mesh pocket. This pack offers additional storage and helps to compress the top of the pack. However, it also limits access to the large mesh pocket and has to be unclipped to fully unzip the main pocket; I didn’t use the Mobile Pack much during testing.

Wingnut Adventure 2006 Backpack REVIEW - 8
The Adventure 2006 is a stellar cycling pack that doubles as a usable hiking pack. The combination makes it an excellent choice for adventure racing.

At $130 for a pack of this quality, the Adventure 2006 is an excellent value that will last through many races or adventures.

What’s Unique

The Wingnut Adventure 2006 is a very unique pack. While most adventure racing packs sit high like backpacking packs, the Adventure 2006 can be adjusted to sit very low. This makes it ideal for cycling, especially in technical terrain, while still being comfortable for use when hiking or running. It is extremely durable, has a multitude of usable pockets, and has a well thought-out hydration system.

Recommendations for Improvement

I can offer the following recommendations for improving the Wingnut Adventure 2006:

Change the attachment points for the suspension system to the shoulder straps to increase comfort when using the pack at its maximum height.
Look carefully at the pack to eliminate unnecessary weight. Lightening items such as the attachment points for the Mobile pack, a few rarely-needed attachment points, and heavy nylon webbing behind the Sidewings could drop a few ounces off of the weight.
Enlarge the hydration ports so it’s easier to remove and replace the hydration tubing.

Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag REVIEW

Hooded, down mummy bag rated to freezing that weighs a mere 19 ounces.

Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 1

Introduction

Western Mountaineering introduced the Summerlite sleeping bag to the US market in January 2006. With features focused on three-season performance and light weight, it instantly drew attention from ultralighters. The Summerlite is the lightest fully baffled bag in Western Mountaineering’s lineup. It has a full-length zipper, insulated draft tube, 4 inches of double-layer loft and weighs 1 pound 3 ounces for the regular length. The long length bag has a specified weight of 1 pound 5 ounces (1 pound 5.4 ounces as measured). The Summerlite is part of the Extremelite series and uses a 0.9 oz/yd² Extremelite shell fabric. In 2007, Western Mountaineering will offer a new short length version designed for people 5 feet 6 inches or less. This version will likely come in near a scant 1 pound 1 ounce. I used the Summerlite for 6 weeks on the Pacific Crest Trail this summer and have some strong opinions about its combination of features and performance. The picture at right was taken on a winter trip in Aravaipa Canyon, Arizona.

The Summerlite has an interesting history as described by Gary Petersen, Production Manager for Western Mountaineering. This bag was originally developed at the request of a European dealer who is a long time customer of Western Mountaineering. The dealer approached Gary in 2002 with a request for a very specific bag – a 32 degree F bag (0 C), in a narrow mummy configuration with a full-length zipper and a target weight of 1 pound 3 ounces (550 grams). They initiated production of the bag in 2003, but did not make it available worldwide until January 2006. It was immediately popular and is already one of the top ten selling products for Western Mountaineering.

What’s Good

1 pound 3 ounce sleeping bag with three-season warmth
Full zipper is convenient and improves versatility
Baffled construction, an unusual feature at this weight, reduces cold spots
Narrow mummy configuration with hood
Stuffs into 12 by 6 inch stuff sack

What’s Not So Good

Might be a little narrow for some

Specifications

Year/Model	2006 Western Mountaineering Summerlite
Style	Mummy (with full length zipper)
Fill	9 oz (255 g) 850 plus down (regular length), 10 oz (283 g) for long length
Measured Loft	2.1 in (5.2 cm) single layer with down distributed evenly across the bag (continuous baffles allow loft to be adjusted); 4.1 in (10.4 cm) double layer averaged from measurements taken at the shoulder, hip and 16 inches above the footbox
Manufacturer Claimed Temperature Rating	32 °F (0 C)
Weight	1 lb 3 oz (538 g, regular length), 1 lb 5.4 oz as measured, (606 g, long length)
Sizes	Regular (to 6 ft, 1.82 m), Long (to 6 ft 6 in, 1.98 m), Short length (to 5 ft 6 in, 1.68 m) available in 2007
Fabrics	0.9 oz/yd² (31 g/m²) Extremelite 20D nylon shell
Features	Insulated draft tube, full length zipper, drawcord and hood, 5.25 in spacing continuous baffles
MSRP	$280 (Regular), $295 (Long)

Performance

The Summerlite is intended to provide the most efficient warmth possible in a full featured three-season sleeping bag. It offers a full zipper to help regulate temperature on those warm summer nights, but with a full hood and insulated draft tube, is still efficient when pushing the bag’s performance into colder temperatures. I used my bag in a broad range of three-season conditions; winter nights in the desert, warm summer nights in the desert and foothills, and cold, wet alpine camps. I found the Summerlite to have a well chosen combination of features and efficiency. I have not developed a liking for top bags or quilts, and the Summerlite is the lightest and most versatile mummy bag I have used – and it can be used in the vast majority of conditions that I encounter.

Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 2
The size long Western Mountaineering Summerlite has plenty of room to cinch up the hood for the author, who is 6 feet 4 inches tall. The hood is comfortable and easy to operate from within the bag.

Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 3
For cold nights, the hood cinches up easily, but still leaves access right where you need it. There is no neck collar on the Summerlite.

The Summerlite is the lightest baffled bag made by Western Mountaineering. The baffles are continuous and wrap around the bag. With a little practice it is possible to move more down onto the top side of the bag, improving effective use of the down. This is easily done by unzipping the bag and pushing the down along the tubes from one side to the other. The baffled construction is a real advantage over sewn through construction, reducing cold spots and improving overall warmth. The baffles on the Summerlite are spaced 5.25 inches apart.

Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 4
The Summerlite stuffs in a conveniently small volume. My sample bag is a size long; other sizes will of course stuff into even smaller volumes.

Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 5
Baffled construction keeps the loft of the Summerlite nearly uniform across its length. Average double-layer loft on my test bag was just above the specified loft of 4 inches.

The Summerlite is cut in what Western Mountaineering refers to as a narrow mummy configuration. The internal girth dimensions are listed as 59 inches at the shoulder, 51 inches at the hip and 38 inches at the foot, for the regular size bag. These dimensions are identical to those on the Highlite and Ultralite models; two of the other lightweight bags offered by Western Mountaineering. I am used to mummy style bags and found the Summerlite to offer plenty of internal room. But I am also more lean than most. The Summerlite fits the description as a narrow mummy – if you aren’t a fan of mummy bags, the Summerlite may not be the best choice for you.

Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 6
The draft tube on the Summerlite is stuffed with plenty of down to eliminate cool spots along the zipper. The #5 YKK zipper is light, reliable and is less abrasive than heavier zippers when material gets caught in the zipper.

The exterior shell on the Summerlite is Western Mountaineering’s Extremelite fabric. When developing the Extremelite fabric, Western Mountaineering looked for a combination of light weight, strength and uniform yarns that would make the fabric as downproof as possible. This fabric is a 0.9 oz/yd² Pertex Quantum which has been calendared (heated and pressed between rollers or plates to smooth and glaze the fabric) on both sides. This sacrifices some breathability, but also reduces down leakage. According to Gary Petersen, uniform yarn sizes reduce down leakage since any junction where yarns of differing diameter meet is a likely spot for leakage. Ripstop fabrics have regular intervals with yarns of larger diameter, which improves strength, but can lead to leakage. That is why Western Mountaineeing has both sides of the exterior fabric calendared. The interior fabric on the Summerlite is a plain weave with uniform yarns (taffeta). By design it is more downproof, and is therefore calendared on only one side. It is likely that Western Mountaineering will use up their current supply of shell fabric and switch to new shell fabrics sometime in 2007. Any new fabrics will have similar construction and characteristics as the current fabrics.

Over the course of the summer I have spent more than 50 nights in the Summerlite and I have experienced almost no down leakage. The shell fabric is very light and I treat it carefully, especially if I drape the bag over bushes or grass to dry it out. I make sure to pay attention when I remove the bag from these situations, not dragging it across branches where it could get snagged or torn.

Missing from this review (and for all sleeping bag reviews published here, for that matter) will be an assessment of whether or not the sleeping bag performs adequately at temperatures near its manufacturer-reported temperature rating. Click here for the complete Backpacking Light Position Statement on Sleeping Bag Temperature Ratings.

What’s Unique

The Western Mountaineering Summerlite is a top quality, 19-ounce (regular size), 32 degree traditional mummy sleeping bag with a full zipper, draft tube and continuous baffles. No other bag on the market offers this combination of features and light weight. The Mountain Hardwear Phantom 32 and The North Face Beeline are similar (and a little less expensive) but the Phantom has box baffles and a three-quarter zip, while the Beeline has no zipper except for a foot vent. Nunatak presents a third option in the Alpinist which has a half-length center zip and 2.5 extra ounces of down for an extra $100.

Recommendations for Improvement

The Summerlite hits the mark for a very lightweight yet versatile three-season bag. Western Mountaineering has sacrificed some breathability to reduce down leakage by using Extremelite fabric. If they can find a fabric that combines improved breathability with similar downproof performance, the Summerlite could take another step forward.

CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack Backpack REVIEW

Durable and adjustable, but initially confusing to set up.

Introduction

The durable 60 Liter WorkSack is currently the largest pack CiloGear makes; with the extension collar loaded it can hold up to 90 liters. Removable straps allow the pack to be compressed down to a 28 liter volume for overnighters or day hikes without all the excess slack and weight in straps. And with further stripping of removable components, it can be reduced down to a 30-ounce frameless pack. The pack has some good characteristics but there is a steep learning curve to mastering strap use and some useful features are missing.

What’s Good

Durable for all types of use
Many adjustment options
Removable straps, framesheet, hipbelt, and top pocket let you reduce weight
Hipbelt + top pocket convert to a fanny pack
Foam backpanel doubles as a short sleeping pad
Hydration compatible

What’s Not So Good

Removable adjustment straps are confusing and hard to adjust
No side pockets
No hipbelt pockets

Specifications

Manufacturer/Year/Model	2006 CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack
Style	Internal frame, top loading, drawstring closure, top pocket
Volume	3660 ci (60 L), 5490 ci (90 L) with extension collar filled, 1709 ci (28 L) with side buckles connected
Weight	3 lb 9 oz (1.62 kg) measured weight, manufacturer’s specification 3 lb 8 oz (1.59 kg)
Fabrics	Main body is VX51, center panel is VX42, center sides are VX21, side panels are 210d Spectra, crampon pouch is 500d Spectra
Features	Removable hipbelt and top lid combine to create a fanny pack, many strap options, one outside front pocket, two zippered pockets on top lid, two ice axe loops, 3-liter hydration sleeve with one port, haul loop, load lifters, hipbelt stabilizers, sternum strap
Volume To Weight Ratio	64.2 ci/oz size L (based on 3660 ci and a measured weight of 57 oz)
Comfortable Load Carrying Capacity	35 lb (15.9 kg) estimated maximum comfortable load an average person can carry all day in this pack
Carry Load to Pack Weight Ratio	9.8 (based on 35 lb and a measured weight of 3.56 lb)
MSRP	$185 US

Performance

The CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack has a strap system I’ve never seen before. I spent some time trying to figure out the different options available. There are three different types of straps that come with the backpack, for a total of ten straps. There are many places on the backpack where you can place the straps, with no directions on the manufacture’s website or included with the pack on how to use them. Quite a bit of time is required initially to strategically place the straps to best suit your needs.

Once the straps are installed, the pack has a 60 liter volume with compression options. The extension collar lets the pack expand up to 90 liters. To make a 28 liter volume pack, remove the adjustment straps and clip the side buckles together. The option of having a smaller pack without the weight or extra length of the straps is nice, but it also means you can’t compress the load since the straps are removed. CiloGear mentions you can have one side of the backpack with straps and the other side with no straps for a 43 liter pack, but this causes the pack to be asymmetrical and I don’t see any advantages to this option.

CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack Backpack REVIEW - 1
Basic strap options for the CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack: straps removed (left) for full pack volume but no compression, buckles connected (center) for 28 liter volume, and straps added (right) for 60 liter volume with compression.

The pack comes in three different torso sizes, small, medium, and large. The hipbelt is removable and attached by Velcro allowing further adjustment for different size torsos. The hipbelt is made of foam that is a little over ½ inch thick. The top lid has a smaller zippered pocket in the inside and a larger zippered pocket on the outside. The lid can also be removed and attached to the hipbelt to make a fanny pack for short hikes around camp.

CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack Backpack REVIEW - 2
The top lid and hipbelt can be removed to create a large fanny pack.

The harness system includes load lifter straps to pull the top of the pack in closer to your back. The shoulder straps are curved and include an adjustable sternum strap. The shoulder straps have foam padding that is a little under ½-inch thick.

CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack Backpack REVIEW - 3
The harness is easy to adjust but the shoulder straps are closer to the neck than most packs.

The backpanel is made up of a single aluminum stay, plastic framesheet and a closed cell foam pad folded in half that can double as a small (18 inches by 24 inches) sleeping pad.

CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack Backpack REVIEW - 4
The closed cell foam backpanel pad of the CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack can be unfolded and used as a sleeping pad, and the plastic framesheet with single aluminum stay can be removed to convert the WorkSack into a frameless pack.

The inside of the bag has some reflective material sewn into one side that brightens up the interior of the pack, making it easier to spot items you’re searching for. There are two ice axe loops and one outside pocket on the pack.

CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack Backpack REVIEW - 5
The interior of the pack has reflective material on one side to brighten up the inside.

The CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack performed well in the field with loads up to 30 pounds. The shoulder straps are sewn into the pack at a right angle so they are close to my neck and rub against it with loads over 30 pounds. On most packs the shoulder straps angle away from each other slightly giving your neck a little more room.

The diameter of the pack is smaller at the bottom and gets larger towards the top, with the collar having the largest diameter. This is good for throwing in some extra food near the top or stuffing in a jacket, but if your sleeping bag is large it might not fit in the bottom of the pack – although my three-season down bag fit just fine. The backpanel pad, framesheet and stay, top lid, and hipbelt can be removed to save some weight and turn the pack into a frameless backpack. The stripped pack weighs only 1 pound 14 ounces.

CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack Backpack REVIEW - 6
CiloGear WorkSack 90 degree shoulder straps (left) compared to the angled shoulder straps on a Gregory G-pack (right).

Assessment

The CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack is durable and can stand up to abuse in the field. I’m not afraid to bushwhack or scrape against rocks with this pack like I am with some other lightweight packs. It is capable of carrying a variety of loads with comfort and is well made. The pack is not user friendly at first and it takes some time to get used to the strap system. There are no side pockets and one front pocket so you’re limited to using the front pocket for a water bottle holder if you don’t use the hydration bladder option.

At 3 pounds 9 ounces, the 60 liter WorkSack is about 8 ounces lighter than the popular Osprey Aether 60, but lacks side pockets. It weighs about the same as the new Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian and GoLite Quest, but does not have nearly as nice a feature set as those packs. The main reasons for considering the CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack are its superb durability and volume adjustment, which make it a good choice for mountaineering applications.

What’s Unique

The removable backpanel pad that can be unfolded and used as a sleeping pad along with the interchangeable and removable compression straps are a unique combination.

Recommendations for Improvement

Make it easier to adjust the straps or scratch the idea of removable straps
Add side pockets to hold water bottles
Add hipbelt pockets
Slightly angle the shoulder straps away from each other

Addendum to CiloGear 60 Liter WorkSack Backpack REVIEW

December 21, 2006

Our statement in this review that there are “no directions on the manufacture’s website or included with the pack on how to use them” is incorrect. A detailed manual is available on the CiloGear website. We apologize to Graham Williams of CiloGear for this oversight. – CC

Petzl e+LITE Headlamp REVIEW

One ounce of fresh innovation: rotary switch, white-and-red LED array, modular form, storage capsule, waterproof. But not perfect – our tests reveal some weaknesses.

Petzl e-Lite Headlamp REVIEW - 1
PETZL e+LITE – Rethinking the Headlamp.

Introduction

Part LED headlamp and part button-cell minilight, the PETZL e+LITE offers more features and flexibility than is typical with either form. With both white and red LEDs, a detachable lamphead that can clip to a hat, a rotary switch and a handy storage case, never in the history of flashlightdom has 1 ounce provided the user with so many choices.

What’s Good

Miniscule size and weight
Flexible, adaptable design
Useful, adjustable output
Night-vision friendly red mode
Brilliant switch
Screw-free battery change
IPX6 waterproof rating

What’s Not So Good

Fleetingly brief initial bright output
Minimal difference between high and low modes
Competitive price?

Petzl e-Lite Headlamp REVIEW - 2
Two CR2032 button cells power the e+LITE.

Specifications

Manufacturer	PETZL
Year/Model	2006 e+LITE
Type	5 mm LED button-cell headlamp
Weight	Measured (lamp and strap without case): 1.0 oz (28 g) Manufacturer’s specification: 27 g
Component Weights	Lamphead: 0.6 oz (17 g) Strap: 0.4 oz (11 g) Case: 0.6 oz (17 g)
Batteries/Operating Voltage	Two CR2032 lithium button cells/6 V
Tool Required to Change Batteries?	No
Regulated?	No
Waterproof Rating	IPX6 (1.0 m – 30 min)
Number of LEDs	3 white, 1 red
Number of Modes	5: white – hi, lo, flash; red – steady, flash
Removable Headstrap?	Yes
Manufacturer’s Battery Life Claims	35 / 45 hours usage in white, hi/low modes
Manufacturer’s Beam Distance Claims	19 / 11 m (62 / 36 ft) beam range with fresh batteries in hi/low modes
Guarantee	Ten years
MSRP	$29.95

PETZL threw out the book of headlamp design creating the e+LITE; it’s as though they held a design competition fueled liberally with Burgundy and espresso. Whatever its genesis, the resulting e+LITE blazes a lot of new ground.

What It Is

The e+LITE is a button-cell flashlight. But unlike other such lights, it sports multiple LEDs (four, total) in two colors and a lever-operated rotary switch instead of a pushbutton. The e+LITE is also a true headlamp, with a detachable elastic strap that threads through the lamphead base. The lamphead attaches to the base via a ball-and-socket joint, which gives it unlimited tilt and swivel. The base also features a metal wire clip that can anchor the lamphead to a cap bill or hat brim, sans strap. Versatile.

The e+LITE has a triangle of three white 5 mm LEDs that operate on high, low and flash. A single red LED centered inside the white trio operates in steady or flash. All modes are accessed using a lever switch that rotates through a 180-degree arc, with click-stops at each of the five modes, plus “off” settings at either end and a lock setting that folds it flush, protected against accidental operation. The sequence is lock, off, low white, high white, flash white, flash red, steady red, off. Clever; different.

Petzl e-Lite Headlamp REVIEW - 3
The two-piece e+LITE storage case can attach to a packstrap or belt.

The e+LITE comes packed in a plastic two-piece lozenge case that’s held closed by an o-ring. A belt loop on the case allows the e+LITE to be stowed on a packstrap. Handy.

What It Isn’t

The e+LITE isn’t a substitute for a multi-AA or AAA-powered headlamp. The miniscule button cells simply can’t match the staying power of their much larger cylindrical cousins. But, thanks to the latest generation of high-efficiency 5 mm LEDs, the e+LITE does provide very useful campsite light for a multi-night backpacking trip. While fresh batteries light up a trail enough to walk with confidence, extended nighttime navigation isn’t the e+LITE’s forte because the initial output’s duration is brief.

Why consider an e+LITE instead of an advanced microlight such as the Photon Freedom? In addition to the obviously greater feature set and the brighter, broader beam, there are the batteries. Instead of the typical two CR2016s, the e+LITE uses two CR2032s. These are twice the thickness and more than twice the capacity of the 2016s: 225 versus 90 mAh, each, which translates into a significantly extended useful life. The weight difference? About a gram, each. (All button cell lights should switch to CR2032s. Despite the minor increases in thickness and weight, they’d gain greater capacity.)

Petzl e-Lite Headlamp REVIEW - 4
Straps to any pack, handy and protected.

Performance

Output testing reveals the e+LITE’s strengths and weaknesses. Initial high-level output is a fleeting 300 lux, with an exact reading impossible because it drops so rapidly during the first fifteen minutes. After this initial plunge, high and low mode outputs show no appreciable difference, as the convergent curves show.

The white beam is reminiscent of other multi 5 mm white LED lights: an indistinct pool of light with a brighter purplish center. The beam diameter is about nine inches at two feet. The red beam is narrower and dimmer than the white, but bright enough to be useful.

Tests conducted at 68 F; output measured in lux at two feet.
Click graph to enlarge.

Output
	Beam Center	1 Ft Off-Axis
White, high	300	4
White, low	75	NR
Red	13	NR
In lux, with fresh batteries, from two feet. NR = Not recorded

Wearing and Operating

The 1-ounce e+LITE is certainly easy to wear, and is basically not noticeable once the strap is adjusted for comfort. Clipped to a ballcap the 17-gram lamphead is likewise unnoticeable, and the stout wire clip is reassuringly tenacious. Backscatter is eliminated using the cap option, and wasn’t bad using the strap. The ball-joint allows limitless aiming, and at least for our test remained stiff enough to hold its setting.

Petzl e-Lite Headlamp REVIEW - 6
The e+LITE sans strap clips to a hat bill or brim.

The switch can be operated wearing gloves, as long as it’s first taken out of the locked position. I sometimes overshoot my preferred position and have to back up because it’s difficult to feel the click stops through gloves.

Assessment: Toy, or Tool?

Implicit in the e+LITE’s packaging and indeed its name is to serve as an emergency headlamp. The case can be threaded onto a packstrap, well protected and ready for quick access. I believe it can fill that role quite adequately. The bright initial output can resolve typical nighttime puzzles; it’s just not a light that’s going to support an unplanned all-night march.

Whether it can become your sole backpacking headlamp depends on the use. As a campsite light the e+LITE works well. I quickly learned to primarily use it on low, reserving high as a boost mode like that provided on Petzl’s XP-series headlamps. The red mode is a great option for those interested in preserving night vision, and the switch allows switching it on directly to red to prevent dazzling the eyes. Because button cells have a solid rebound after resting a few hours, even worn cells provide 200-300 lux for at least a minute or two, which is adequate for brief technical navigation or stringing a bear bag line. With prudent use it can certainly support a weeklong backpacking trip, and toting a few extra grams in spare batteries would assure weeks of use. They’re also gratifyingly easy to swap, with the headstrap toggle substituting for the coin you might otherwise use to open the battery cap. It’s a thirty-second task.

Buying button cell batteries can be an experience. Despite being widely available, CR2032 prices vary hugely. I paid as much as four dollars each during this test, but have found them on-line for as little as thirty cents, in bulk. Because they have a long shelf life, shopping the sales and keeping a supply handy seems like the way to go.

Idle Speculation

Could the e+LITE represent a test platform for design elements that might migrate to other headlamps? If so, we say “heap them on,” especially the switch, the red light option and the robust IPX6 waterproof rating.

Petzl e-Lite Headlamp REVIEW - 7
A bezel protects the bare LEDs from damage, reduces glare.

Value

For a somewhat princely thirty bucks, the e+LITE isn’t everyone’s impulse, gotta-have-it purchase. The same amount can buy a “serious” headlamp such as one of Petzl’s Tikka models or a small fistful of generic button-cell lights. Serious nighttime navigation requires more light than the e+LITE can muster, but little 1-ounce wonder will give enough hands-free light to operate easily around camp, with the added benefit of night-vision-friendly red.

Compared To

Compared to the Photon Freedom, the brightest single-LED button cell light we’ve tested, the e+LITE’s beam is broader and more useful in all applications. Both are similarly affected by rapid drop-off with time, although the Photon’s continuously variable output allows more flexibility in matching output to task. Interestingly, the two miniscule lights offer what no popular “regular” sized headlamp does: the ability to switch on directly to low.

What’s Unique

Nearly everything about the e+LITE is new and fresh, from the modular form to its white-and-red LED array to its rotary switch to the storage capsule. The e+LITE is also the only immersible Petzl light we’ve tested.

Recommendations for Improvement

Low mode could be lower for more distinction from high. Add regulation circuitry.

Question for Down the Trail

Will the ball-and-socket retain adequate tension with extended wear?

Princeton Tec Quad LED Headlamp REVIEW

Waterproof, four-LED headlamp with a wide, regulated beam.

Princeton Tec Quad LED Headlamp REVIEW - 1

Introduction

Following its justly popular EOS, Princeton Tec offers the four-LED Quad in a very similar package. The Quad’s wide beam is very useful in camp and still supports nighttime travel. The Quad is light, affordable, waterproof and has an easy-to-use power switch. The Quad’s current regulation offers extended periods of steady output in the low and medium modes, but not in high mode.

What’s Good

Bright, wide beam that’s the best of any 5 mm headlamp we’ve tested
Waterproof to 1 meter
Easy-to-use power switch
Low battery indicator
Tilting lamphead
Light and compact
Solid build and materials
Affordable
Lifetime warranty

What’s Not So Good

Current regulation not effective on high
Beam exhibits the familiar purple artifacts typical of white 5 mm LEDs
Loose tilt ratchet on our sample

Specifications

Manufacturer	Princeton Tec
Year/Model	2006 Quad
Type	Four, 5 mm LED headlamp with integrated battery pack
Weight	Measured: 3.4 oz (96 g) with alkaline batteries Manufacturer’s specification: 96 g with alkaline batteries
Batteries/Operating Voltage	Three AAA alkaline, lithium or NiMH/4.5 V
Regulated?	Yes
Immersible?	Yes (1 m)
Headstrap	Wrap-style
Modes	High, medium, low, flash
Features	Tilting lamp housing, low battery indicator
Manufacturer’s Battery Life Claims	50 / 70 / 100 hours usage in hi/med/low modes
Manufacturer’s Beam Distance Claims	29 / 18 / 12 m (95 / 59 /39 ft) beam range with fresh batteries in hi/med/low modes
Warranty	Lifetime US, 10-year international
MSRP	$30

Overview

The Princeton Tec Quad demonstrates the continued viability of multi-5 mm headlamps in a marketplace being quickly dominated by high-output 1-, 3- and even 5-watt Luxeon LED headlamps. The Quad is surprisingly bright for a small, four-LED headlamp and casts a relatively wide and even beam. This is good news for those who don’t care for blazingly bright pencil beams that illuminate a trail 100 feet ahead but aren’t so nice on the eyes in camp. The Quad is small, light, waterproof, frugal and features regulation for extended stretches of steady output.

Compared To

The Quad is a close cousin to the 1-watt Luxeon EOS, a light we’ve extolled at Backpacking Light for its stellar performance, light weight and affordability. We’ve also been fans of the Princeton Tec Aurora in the past, but it’s astonishing how superior the Quad is to the Aurora for small increases in weight and cost. Several recently upgraded Petzl 5 mm LED headlamps compete with the Quad, including the Tactikka that features a night-vision preserving flip-down red lens. None of the Petzl lights match the Quad’s regulation and waterproofness rating. Black Diamond’s Cosmo is their closest equivalent, and it also lacks regulation and immersibility.

Princeton Tec Quad LED Headlamp REVIEW - 2
The Princeton Tec Quad houses its four-LED array behind a protective lens.

Design and Construction

Controls and Operation

The lone combination power-mode button is located atop the Quad’s lamphead. This large button is operable wearing heavy gloves and mittens, and is the best we’ve yet used. Controls follow the typical high, medium, low, flash, off operating sequence. No mode memory on power-up means the Quad always starts on high, a trend we’d like to see eliminated on all flashlights (either start on low or the last mode used). A 1.5-second pause in any mode means the next push turns the light off, eliminating the need to roll through all the modes.

Princeton Tec Quad LED Headlamp REVIEW - 3
One easy-to-use button atop the Quad controls power and mode, and can be operated even wearing mittens.

Lamphead

The Quad’s LEDs are arrayed four-across behind a protective lens. The lamphead’s eyebrow shape reduces glare and backscatter. Its angle adjusts from straight ahead to a downward tilt of ninety degrees. Upward tilt from horizontal isn’t possible, but as with any single-band headlamp, invert the Quad if an upward tilt is needed. Our sample has a rather loose ratchet, meaning the angle can be knocked from the set position. (This could be sample variation, as store copies I’ve checked have stiffer and more reliable ratcheting, but potential buyers have no way to check out a packaged sample in the store beforehand.)

Battery Power Meter

When the batteries are nearly dead, a red LED battery indicator a little below the LED array blinks when the light’s off. Also, the main LEDs will blink upon switching on a Quad with very worn batteries.

Battery Compartment

The hinged battery compartment is integrated to the Quad’s lamphead. It’s o-ring-sealed and held closed by a captive, slotted and knurled thumbscrew. The headband buckle serves as a screwdriver for opening and tightening. Batteries access is easy and correct battery alignment is obvious – a safety feature for the headlamp itself. Batteries are secured tightly enough that they’re unlikely to fall out inadvertently. Princeton Tec claims IPX7 water resistance for the Quad – immersible to 1 meter for 30 minutes. Our dunk test confirms this spec.

Princeton Tec Quad LED Headlamp REVIEW - 4
The Quad’s easy-access battery compartment.

Princeton Tec Quad LED Headlamp REVIEW - 5
Slotted strap guides allow easy removal and replacement.

Headstrap

The simple 1-inch wide headband is soft and comfortable. It’s long enough to fit a climbing helmet and the strap guides are notched for easy removal and replacement, making it easy to wash the strap if so desired.

Performance

I measured beam intensity and width at all output levels from our standard 2-foot distance. Effective beam control tames the four white LEDs into a wide and even beam with a good amount of beam “spill” for peripheral lighting. The beam center has the familiar purple tint generated by seemingly all white 5 mm LEDs, but not so pronounced and annoying as with many earlier lights. The LEDs are a big improvement over their predecessors, both in brightness and color quality, and likely represent the latest evolutionary wave from the electronics wizards. It’s not possible to ascertain whether the Quad’s reflector-like bezel has a positive effect on the beam pattern, although I suspect it’s likely.

Output
	Beam Center	1 ft off-axis
High	630	20
Medium	250	10
Low	115	6
In Lux, with fresh batteries, measured from 2 Feet

With fresh batteries the Quad is very bright for a four x 5 mm LED headlamp. As a point of comparison, our test Princeton Tec Corona isn’t as bright with eight LEDs. The Quad’s initial high mode output was 630 lux. There’s an ovoid center spot – purplish in hue – that averages about 8 inches in diameter at 2 feet distance. Rather than a sharp cutoff at the bright spot’s edge there’s a gradual transition to a much larger and somewhat whiter area, perhaps 18 inches in diameter. In sum, the Quad provides a very wide and useful beam pattern.

Our experience is that low and medium are satisfactory for all camping and a certain portion of trail activities, and high supports nighttime navigation of fairly sketchy trails. The relatively wide and even beam illuminates a wider swath of the trail than a typical Luxeon light. This is sometimes preferable, for example, if you’re following a path and looking for blazes.

I performed run-time tests on the Quad in high and medium modes. Review of the graph reveals my biggest Quad qualm: there’s not much evidence of effective regulation in high mode. Intensity dropped by about a third in the first fifteen minutes, then by half from that point over the next four hours. It reached the initial medium equivalent at about four hours and initial low equivalent at nine.

Medium, by contrast, shows effective regulation – providing very steady output for almost eight hours, then a gradual decline for several hours more. Medium crossed the initial low equivalent at about twelve hours, and eventually matched the high output curve at about twenty-four hours.

Tests run at room temperature (68 deg F) with alkaline batteries from a single batch.
Click graph to enlarge.

Princeton Tec advises that the battery power meter activates when batteries are near the end of their functional life. Our tests seemed to verify this, as the signal first appeared near the end of each battery run at roughly 30 lux (about 5% of maximum brightness). The miniscule red LED blinks only when the light’s switched off, and seems primarily aimed at the grab-and-run crowd who wouldn’t bother to check their flashlight before taking off with it. Additionally, the Quad switched on with nearly dead batteries blinks the main lights several times to alert the user of their status (in case the very dim output isn’t evidence enough). This occurred well after the red signal first activated in our tests.

In the Field

The Quad proved effective and comfortable in varied nighttime situations. In camp it’s an ideal headlamp – the bright, wide, smooth beam is great for setting up, cooking, organizing, or hanging a bear line. Most of the time, the low setting serves up enough light. As a trail light the Quad might even be better than a brighter pencil beam on easy trails by lighting up more of the border and reducing the need for head swiveling. Even with the wider beam spread it’s still effective for sketchier paths. Of course, sometimes there’s no substitute for “horsepower” and focused 1 and 3-watt Luxeon lights are simply better, but perhaps my biggest surprise with the Quad was that those times are less common than I’d expected. I suspect this is mostly due to the Quad’s being far brighter than other 5 mm lights I’ve used, combined with its well controlled beam pattern and more neutral color.

The lamphead extends far enough to reduce glare off of glasses. The strap is comfortable and holds without cinching it tight, so it can be worn for hours if necessary. The angle ratchet doesn’t hold as well as I’d like and as noted earlier, might be defective on ours. While not a balanced designed with batteries in back, the Quad is sufficiently light that it doesn’t seem front-heavy. Of course, no batteries in back make it great for reading while lying on one’s back.

Batteries, and Realistic Run Times

Three AAA alkaline batteries provide good life at 35 grams per set, while a 23-gram set of lithiums will last longer and significantly boost cold-weather performance. It’s certainly the case that with prudent use, the Quad can provide many, many nights of service on a single set. Use our runtime chart as a rough guide for projecting your likely use. Even when the batteries are all but dead they’ll continue for hours, perhaps days longer at a very low level. At a measly 10 lux there’s enough light to dig items out of a pack or even cook, but not enough light for nighttime travel, at least for those of us not blessed with owl eyes.

Assessment

The Quad almost single-handedly reinvigorates the multi-5 mm LED headlamp marketplace, giving those who don’t like 1-watt Luxeon headlamps a legitimate 5 mm alternative for technical nighttime travel. Most similar headlamps are, generally speaking, suited only for walking on clearly delineated trails; however they, like the Quad, are superior to most Luxeon-only headlamps for camp chores and reading.

Clearly based on the EOS, the Quad’s general design and construction are also simple, robust and now proven. In fact, the Quad power switch is better than that on the EOS. Like the EOS, the Quad is compact and lightweight, making it a pleasure to carry and wear. Since a single battery set can last a good many trail days, most users will be freed from carrying spares.

Value

At $30 the Quad is a very good value. It’s aggressively priced in a very competitive market segment, while providing a unique feature set and packing Princeton Tec’s reputation and lifetime warranty.

What’s Unique

Very bright for a 5 mm headlamp. Effective regulation on medium and low. Great switch. Immersible.

Recommendations for Improvement

Effective regulation in high mode would improve the Quad, even if it came at the cost of lowering initial output some (there’s little benefit to gaudy output that lasts five minutes). Reverse the mode sequence to begin on low or provide mode memory. Incorporating an always on “find me” feature to the power meter, similar to Black Diamond’s Zenix IQ, would extend its value, as would a two-stage power warning (e.g., stage 1 at 50%, stage 2 at 10%). We’re presuming our sample’s loose ratchet is an anomaly, and not representative of most Quads.

Make Your Own Gear: Five Yards to SuperUltraLight
Part 3, Tarp

Complete instructions to construct a 6-ounce tarp with improved weather protection.

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Will Rietveld

Will Rietveld has a B.S. and M.S. in Forest Science from Oregon State University and a Ph.D. in Ecological Physiology and Biochemistry from the University of Arizona. He spent his entire career with the Research Division of the USDA Forest Service, where he worked as a research scientist, project manager, and national R&D program administrator.

Now retired, he lives in southern Colorado where he takes up a new career of backpacking year-round in the mountains and canyon country of the Southwest. During the summer months Will and his wife Janet are volunteer wilderness rangers in the Weminuche Wilderness.

His friends claim he is a cross between a mountain goat and a jackrabbit, thus his trail name “Willi Wabbit”. He loves to explore off-trail in the mountains of Southern Colorado and the canyon country of Southeast Utah, and can still do a 20-mile day. He has been a lightweight backpacker for 40 years and an ultralight backpacker for the past 7 years.

Will joined the BPL staff in April 2004, initially as Cooking Systems Section Editor, then Packing Systems Section Editor, then Shelter Systems Section Editor, and currently Senior Editor for Gear and Apparel. For Will, gear testing and writing reviews and technical articles on outdoor gear really fits in well with his passion for ultralight backpacking, and utilizes his research and writing skills from his former career.

Montane Jetstream Windshirt SPOTLITE REVIEW

2.8 ounces, full zip – is there a downside?

Overview

Montane’s Jetstream windshirt certainly sounds good – a sub-3-ounce, stripped-down item made from tried-and-true Pertex Quantum fabric. I’ve used the Jetstream backpacking, mountain biking, and running, and the performance is excellent. It proved very breathable, and the ventilation offered by the full zipper makes temperature management a cinch. The bright colors (Montane says mine is “Flouro Yellow,” but I’d call it “Ninja Turtle Slime Green”) and reflective patches make this an excellent choice for runners or cyclists looking for extra visibility. For the demure, never fear – more subdued colors are available. Finish and sewing are excellent, and the drop-tail design provides extra protection. During a recent backpacking trip in New Mexico’s Black Range, I left the jacket on for two full days. Lows flirted with the teens, and though the highs ranged from the 50s to 60s, the wind was fierce all day and night. The venting options made it comfortable at the higher temperatures, and it made a great second layer for sleeping and hanging around camp in the evenings.

So what gets skipped to make a garment this light and clean? Pockets – there are none, not even the cute little chest pocket found on many popular windshirts. Montane makes up for this (and in so doing, exposes the jacket’s running/biking/adventure racing pedigree) by including a nifty 0.7 ounce armband stuff sack. If you’re having trouble picturing what that looks like, think “tiny fanny pack.” Since the jacket stuffs so easily into a pants pocket, I can’t picture myself using this. However, someone who can’t afford to stop to don or doff a windshirt might love the at-hand storage.

One complaint about this jacket is that while the torso sizing is perfect for wiry guys like me, the arms are just too short for a performance-geared jacket. It’s not terribly noticeable when just walking, but when running, using poles, biking, or sitting on the ground, the cuffs ride up several inches farther than I’d like. I have fairly long arms, but this was still not a fatal flaw. More annoying is the fact that Montane claims a weight of 2.5 ounces – about 8 percent less than my measurement.

For now, this jacket has a home in my pack or pocket. However, I’ll jump on the first jacket that comes around with this combination of features and weight, but with a more realistic athletic cut that doesn’t "cheat" to save a few tenths of an ounce.

The Montane Jetstream windshirt has no built-in pockets, but includes an armband stuff sack.

Features and Specifications

Measured weight: Medium jacket 2.8 oz (79 g), pocket 0.7 oz (20 grams); Manufacturer claimed weight: Medium jacket 2.5 oz (70 g)
Full front zipper
Pertex Quantum ripstop nylon fabric
Elastic cuffs and hem
Armband stuff sack
MSRP $89

2006 Backpacking Light Staff Picks

An eclectic assortment of favorite gear for 2006.

Another year has gone by and it is time once again for the Backpacking Light staff to list their favorite gear. This year our picks are all over the board with only one item repeated – the Light My Fire Firesteel. Shelters is a favorite category with eight different shelters listed. Stoves, packs and poles were common choices with three selections each. The most unusual item is from Don Wilson – the venerable and well-loved potato chip in a can – Pringles.

This isn’t an “Editor’s Choice” or formal endorsement, just a list of gear we like.

Here are our previous picks for your enjoyment: 2005 Backpacking Light Staff Picks and 2004 Backpacking Light Staff Picks.

Enjoy – and don’t forget to add your own 2006 favorites in the forum below. —Your BPL Eds

2006 Staff Picks of Favorite Gear
Backpacking Light Staff Member	Favorite Pieces of Gear
Ryan Jordan	Backpacking Light SUL Long Handled Titanium Spoon	Bushbuddy Ultra Wood Stove	Light My Fire Firestarting Tool and Spark-Lite Tinder-Quik Firestarting Tabs
Carol Crooker	Oware Alphamid	Outdoor Research PL Base Gloves	RailRiders Adventure Top
Alan Dixon	Inov-8 Roc-Lite 285 Shoes	Outdoor Research Zealot Rain Jacket	Trail Designs Caldera Cone Alcohol Stove System
Ken Knight	Komperdell C3 Duolock Carbon Fiber Trekking Poles	Light My Fire Firesteel	Pacific Outdoor Equipment Max Compact 3/4 Sleeping Pad
Roger Caffin	Darn Tough Vermont Socks	Snow Peak GST100 stove	Therm-a-Rest Deluxe LE
Rick Dreher	Garmin Legend Cx GPS	Patagonia Strider T-Shirt	REI Sahara Convertible Pants
Jay Ham	Black Diamond Mega Light Pyramid Tent	Homemade Spinnaker Tarp	MontBell Versalite 20 Pack
Doug Johnson	Bozeman Mountain Works STIX PRO	Gossamer Gear / Tarptent Squall Classic	Jacks ‘R’ Better No Sniveler Quilt
Mike Martin	Bozeman Mountain Works Stealth 1 NANO (7×9) Catenary Ridgeline Tarp	Gossamer Gear Lightrek Poles	Marmot Ion Windshirt
Will Rietveld	Mountain Laurel Designs Prophet Pack	Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape	Tarptent Contrail
Alison Simon	Haglöfs LIM Ultimate Jacket	MontBell UL Down Inner Half-Sleeve Jacket
Andrew Skurka	Bozeman Mountain Works NANO X-LITE Lightweight Backpacking Tarp	GoLite Jam² Pack	Photon Micro Freedom 1-LED Light
Don Wilson	Coolibar Fingerless Gloves	Pringles	Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag

Ryan Jordan, Publisher – Bozeman, Montana


	Backpacking Light SUL Long Handled Titanium Spoon Backpacking Light Store	I know, I’m a total geek when it comes to flatware. But not only was I excited about designing a new version of the long handled titanium spoon, but also about using it in the field, knowing that its 0.39 ounce weight was lighter than my old mini-spoon or Lexan spork! The SUL Long Handled Titanium Spoon fits my style perfectly: it’s not so ultra-durable that I can ignore how I treat it, but it preserves all the functionality of its heavier brother, which weighs a whopping 0.2 ounces more.
	Bushbuddy Ultra Wood Stove www.bushbuddy.ca	This year, I fell in love (again) with woodfire cooking. After having the opportunity to review a whole suite of wood stoves, I found the Bushbuddy to fit my needs the best. I worked with Fritz of Bushbuddy to create an ultralight version of his stove for a trek to Alaska in June, and the result was a terrific blend of beautiful aesthetics, light weight and solid performance.
	Light My Fire Firestarting Tool and Spark-Lite Tinder-Quik Firestarting Tabs Backpacking Light Store	I’m a huge fan of the Spark-Lite firestarter. But, combined with my preferred style of cooking (with wood, see above), I prefer a more robust firestarter that delivers a shower of sparks in the worst conditions. The Light My Fire Firestarting Tool fits the bill, and the Tinder-Quik Firestarting Tabs (a petroleum-impregnated cotton firestarter) readily ignite even when wet. This combination has never, ever failed me in the field, after hundreds of fires in wet conditions.

Carol Crooker, Editor-in-Chief – Phoenix, Arizona


	Oware Alphamid www.owareusa.com	Pyramid tarps are great for use on snow. The tall opening is easy to get through even bundled in warm clothing and there is enough headroom to change clothes without brushing the top. Floorless silnylon pyramid tarps are very light and offer all kinds of snow sculpting options for creating a palace under the roof. The Alphamid goes one better – it’s a pyramid tarp cut in half. This 20 ounce shelter has plenty of room inside for one person and gear on a winter trip.
	Outdoor Research PL Base Gloves www.orgear.com	These gloves weigh so little, I don’t mind stuffing them in my pack even on SuperUltraLight trips. They are thin enough that I can perform almost any camp chore with them on and, unlike thin wool liner gloves I’ve worn, the finger tips haven’t worn through. My gloves are a few years old and made of polyester. Most likely the current polypropylene models will perform as well my older style gloves.
	RailRiders Adventure Top www.railriders.com	I wear the Adventure Top on all of my warm weather backpacking trips (unless I’m testing another shirt). It is the simplest and lightest (6.1 ounces) sun shirt I’ve found. The CoolMax side vents let in the slightest breeze, while the tough Supplex nylon protects me from thorns and even mosquitoes to some extent (assisted by the loose fit). Although the RailRiders Eco-Mesh shirt (made famous by adventure racers) is simpler still, I prefer the Adventure Top because the cuffs add enough length to the men’s medium to cover my wrists when I’m using trekking poles (my sleeve length is 32 inches). The buttons haven’t failed after three years of wear and the button up front placket is a tad warmer for evening wear than the Velcro closure on the Eco-Mesh.

Alan Dixon, Senior Technical Editor – Washington, D.C.


	Inov-8 Roc-Lite 285 Shoes www.inov-8.com/	In the past I’ve used F-Lite 300s and Terrocs, but the new Roc-Lite 285s are lighter, more flexible, and have better grip. I particularly like the precise (snugger) fit of their “performance” last, the anatomic form used to construct shoes. The Roc-Lite 285s have the best grip and trail feel of any shoe I’ve used. This is especially true for soft, muddy, rocky or otherwise treacherous terrain. They are my favorite shoes for going out with a light pack where I might jog sections of a trail. The only downside of the 285’s is that the tread is a bit squirmy and doesn’t wear as well for long stretches of very hard surfaces (like rock or tarmac) as the F-Lite 300’s. I now alternate between the Roc-Lite 285s and F-Lite 300s depending on the trip and trail conditions, but take the 285s more often than not.
	Outdoor Research Zealot Rain Jacket www.orgear.com/	The Zealot has been my primary rain shell for the last couple of years. It was my choice for three weeks of backpacking on the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island, an area that receives over 250 days and 300 inches of rain per year. The weather lived up to its reputation and I never regretted my choice. Outdoor Research makes intelligent decisions about which features to include but still keeps weight around 7 ounces – competitive with the lightest rain jackets on the market. The Zealot has breathable and durable Gore-Tex PacLite fabric, a full length zipper for ventilation and easy doffing and donning, a generous size that layers over garments, and a single chest pocket that can be accessed with the pack on. I don’t miss hand pockets or vents and leaving them out saves weight and removes two potential sources for leaks. The hood is adequate but with limited adjustments and a shorter than average brim. I find that my normal habit of wearing a billed cap under the hood easily fixes this.
	Trail Designs Caldera Cone Alcohol Stove System traildesigns.com/	I was torn between including the Bushbuddy wood burning stove or Caldera alcohol stove but I mostly camp where fires are prohibited so… Think of the Caldera Cone Stove System as an alcohol version of the JetBoil without the weight penalty! The Caldera windscreen/pot support and stove weigh only 2 ounces. I have done precision testing of the Caldera and it is the most fuel efficient and wind resistant alcohol stove I’ve used. It’s more efficient in wind than many alcohol stoves in still air. The stove needs no priming, lights easily and works well in below freezing conditions. The Caldera maintains its fuel efficiency even with small solo cooking pots like the Anti Gravity Gear 3 Cup Pot or even a SnowPeak 600 ml mug. The key to this performance is the Caldera cone windscreen/pot support that is precisely fitted to your pot. The cone retains heat and distributes it to the entire pot surface (except lid) for optimal energy transfer. The Cone also provides good wind protection and makes the stove easy to light even in blustery weather. Finally, the Cone system is so stable that it is almost impossible to knock over – just light the stove, put the pot on, and forget about it. The only potential downside of the Trail Designs Cone system is longer boil times (6 to 8 min for 1 pint of water at 70 F depending on altitude, and a bit longer with wind). This is a byproduct of its fuel efficient stove burner. I use two versions of the Trail Designs Caldera Cone Stove System. For solo trips I use the Anti Gravity Gear 3 Cup Pot version. For couple’s trips, my wife and I use the larger 1.3 liter Evernew system. I look forward to using the Caldera cone with Backpacking Light’s new line of light and minimal titanium pots. The combination of a stove, windscreen, 1.3 liter pot and lid combination may come in under 6 ounces.

Ken Knight, Production Editor – Ann Arbor, Michigan


	Komperdell C3 Duolock Carbon Fiber Trekking Poles www.komperdell.com	At 5.6 ounces per pole (women’s model; men’s is 6.1 ounces per pole) I have come to really appreciate these three-segment collapsible poles. Their versatility more than offsets the somewhat increased weight of these poles over single-segment poles for me. They have proven to be sturdy and capable of taking the all-around abuse I tend to dish out on poles especially when descending even modest hills. My hands have yet to feel tired when using these poles.
	Light My Fire Firesteel Backpacking Light Store	In 2005 I listed the Spark-Lite as one of my favorites. The Light My Fire Firesteel has replaced the Spark-Lite for my fire-starting needs even though it is a bit heavier at 1.1 ounces (32 grams). It throws out many more sparks and is easy to work with even when the temperature starts to drop – which is not the case with the Spark-Lite which is hard to flick when your fingers are cold.
	Pacific Outdoor Equipment Max Compact 3/4 Sleeping Pad www.pacoutdoor.com	The Max Compact is not the lightest sleeping pad on the market, but for me it is important to have a good night’s sleep and this pad helps to deliver that. It weighs 14 ounces but its glorious 2.5 inch thick stature makes sleeping on any ground a dream. While I would strongly hesitate to take this pad on a winter camping trip I have slept on it when the temperature has dropped into the mid-20s and been quite happy with the results. For a sound night’s slumber I am more than willing to pay the near half pound penalty I incur by not using a basic closed-cell foam pad.

Roger Caffin, Cooking & Hydration Systems Section Editor – Sydney, Australia


	Darn Tough Vermont Socks www.darntough.com	I have some research background in textile physics and I know a little about knitting. There are several good brands of walking socks on the market, including some very well-known ones, but these Darn Tough Vermont socks are in a class of their own. The knitting is twice as fine as used by the competition, and this makes the inner pile on the socks unbelievably rugged. After our initial experiences with testing these socks my wife and I bought several more pairs each. Truth to tell, most of mine are still sitting in the drawer in their original packaging: my first pair has yet to wear out. And they get really hammered.
	Snow Peak GST100 stove www.snowpeak.com	This is one of those iconic stoves: people who have one swear by them for their light weight of just 79 grams (2.79 ounces) and their utter reliability. OK, it’s an upright stove, so you don’t use it in the snow, but elsewhere it is a dream. You can get a piezo-ignitor attachment for it, but I have never bothered. I just use a Bic. It comes with a rugged plastic case but I don’t use that as it is just extra weight. Instead I wrap the stove up in a sock and store it in my pot. At first it had a bit of hysterisis in the valve action, but after many years I stripped the valve down, cleaned and lubricated the O-rings with silicone grease, and it has been ultra-smooth ever since. It’s powerful, but it also simmers superbly.
	Therm-a-Rest Deluxe LE www.thermarest.com	It’s OK for teenagers to sleep on a 1/2-inch foam mat, but it’s a long time since I was that young, and a good night’s sleep is very important for both my wife and I. This means an airmat, and a bit more thickness too. Once we get into the snow country the extra insulation value of a thick airmat also counts. I can sleep on mine with a quilt over me on snow and be warm underneath. They are 3/4 length, a whole 50 mm (2 in) thick, and weigh only 780 grams (27.5 ounces). OK, they are not SuperUltraLight, but the trade-off between weight and comfort is one we make without hesitation. We bought these self-inflating air mats many years ago, and sadly they are no longer available. I wish Therm-a-Rest would bring them back into production.

Rick Dreher, Lighting and Navigation Systems Section Editor – Sacramento, California


	Garmin Legend Cx GPS www.garmin.com	Even More About Where I Am: I knew this GPS was different when upon first powering it up, it located me inside my house upon waking from the long slumber that began in Taiwan. This implied sensitivity becomes reality in the woods, where the Legend CX kept the track where my other receivers would not (think heavy forest cover and tight mountain canyons). The bright color screen helps me discern relevant detail from map clutter and completing the performance trifecta, is excellent battery life that can eke out a week from a single set of lithiums or half a week from rechargeables (specification is 35 hours). At home, the USB connection means fast data transfer and also allows the PC to power the unit. Base topographical maps can be uploaded from a computer or added instantly by plugging in a microSD card, preloaded with a region map (surely the most expensive hiking accessory per pound, ever). While I’ve yet to figure how to use most of its countless features, the Garmin’s sensitivity, color screen, base maps and navigation aids make it a powerful trail tool without even reading the book. Weight: 6 ounces; MSRP: $300.
	Patagonia Strider T-Shirt www.patagonia.com	Polyester Bliss: Consider the humble trail shirt mundane, but to find one that works well is a worthy quest. This Patagonia Strider is an all-polyester knit that doesn’t pill or fuzz underneath repeated packstrap wear, ventilates well, dries quickly and to my nose at least, doesn’t reek after a week on the trail (given the occasional rinse-and-wring). Raglan sleeves and flat stitching minimize bruising from seams and it’s long enough to stay tucked in. Not many pieces of clothing go with me whether it’s freezing or sweltering or raining, but this shirt does. Weight: 5.8 ounces, size large; MSRP: $40.
	REI Sahara Convertible Pants www.rei.com	Count the Pockets: I generally find it a good idea to wear pants with my favorite trail shirt. For several years this has meant REI Sahara Convertible pants, of which I’ve used at least three generations. My latest are the first I’ve considered “best in show.” They’re comfortable, light and tough enough for all but the most ghoulish bushwhacking. They FIT, because REI now makes them in different inseam lengths, meaning no more high-water trail pants. They’ve got pockets aplenty – six – two of which zip closed and one that includes a small stash pocket. Okay, seven pockets. The zip-off legs also have vertical zips so they can come off or on while wearing shoes. The elastic waistband is paired with a webbing belt, but isn’t so bulky that it bunches up beneath a backpack waist belt. The fabric breathes well and sheds minor moisture, and when they do get wet they dry quickly. If I rinse them out and hang them up overnight, they’re usually dry the next morning, ready to go. They’re my first choice most of the year. Weight: 13.2 ounces, men’s medium 34-inch inseam; MSRP: $55.

Jay Ham, Make Your Own Gear Section Editor – Flagstaff, Arizona


	Black Diamond Mega Light Pyramid Tent www.bdel.com	The Black Diamond Mega Light is my favorite family backpacking tarp/tent. It’s roomy enough for the four of us and only 6.1 ounces per person (1 pounds 8.4 ounces total weight without stakes or pole). I use my trekking poles, tied together, for the center pole and carry homemade titanium stakes (4.0 ounces) to keep the weight as low as possible. My kids like the alternating two colored silnylon construction because it looks like a circus tent. When backpacking with small children, this is the only way to go!
	Homemade Spinnaker Tarp Backpacking Light	I recently made this tarp for a Make Your Own Gear (MYOG) series on creating your own SUL kit (pack, tarp, and stuff sack) out of 5 yards of spinnaker sailcloth. The tarp has become one of my favorites. I designed it with large overhangs on the front and rear to protect from driving rain. It’s also fairly wide for a solo tarp and has a catenary ridgeline for a taut setup. The best part is the weight; 6.3 ounces! Look for the do-it-yourself article next week.
	MontBell Versalite 20 Pack www.montbell.com	MontBell’s Versalite 20 is designed as an adult pack, but the small volume and light weight (11.5 ounces) make it an excellent multi-day pack for my two girls. They both carry a Bozeman Mountain Works TorsoLite, Marmot Hydrogen, MontBell Thermawrap Action jacket (size XS), change of clothes, emergency rain poncho, and small toilet kit in their Versalite’s 1220 cubic inch volume. The Versalite has a wrap around back pocket the girls use to stow unneeded clothing, and a top pocket where they keep loose stuff. The torso length is admittedly a little long, but we keep the total weight under 6 pounds so the hipbelt is unnecessary.

Doug Johnson, Trekking Systems Section Editor – Redmond, Washington


	Bozeman Mountain Works STIX PRO Backpacking Light Store	At $280 ($238 for subscribers), these things are wicked expensive. But nothing translates to trail distance like a set of high-zoot trekking poles. And these are it – super light, the stiffest out there, and plenty durable. The STIX PRO are the Maserati of trekking poles.
	Gossamer Gear / Tarptent Squall Classic www.gossamergear.com	At just 1.5 pounds for a two-person shelter with a bathtub floor, the Squall Classic is an excellent blend of the best attributes of old and new Tarptent designs and constructed with ultralight fabrics. Add in Fibraplex poles and you’ve got the lightest two-person tent in the world!
	Jacks ‘R’ Better No Sniveler Quilt www.jacksrbetter.com	This bag is a super-versatile GEM! You can use it in a tent or a hammock, hang it under a hammock, or add a hood and arms for a super-warm down serape! Sure, I get some giggles, but I am warm and toasty – both around camp and while snoozing!

Mike Martin, Sleep Systems Section Editor, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho


	Bozeman Mountain Works Stealth 1 NANO (7×9) Catenary Ridgeline Tarp Backpacking Light Store	For years, I hiked with a 7 ounce, 5 foot by 8 foot silnylon tarp and put up with its idiosyncrasies as what I thought was the cost of going lightweight. I accepted the fact that I would routinely have to re-tension the pitch as the fabric sagged from moisture at night. In windblown rain, I would put a rain shell over the end of my bag to keep the spray from coming in the ends of the tarp while grumbling that it must have been originally designed to fit Hobbits. Then I discovered the Stealth 1 NANO Tarp. At 5 ounces, it’s 30% lighter than my old tarp. The fabric doesn’t stretch when wet, so I don’t have to adjust the pitch in the middle of the night. And finally, with its 9 foot length, it’s actually large enough for me to spread out (with my gear) and keep everything dry.
	Gossamer Gear Lightrek Poles www.gossamergear.com	Except when I’m on skis, I don’t need a 20 ounce pair of poles. Depending on length, the Gossamer Gear Lightrek poles weigh only 5 ounces per pair! At this weight, the exotic grip, shock absorber, and strap designs prevalent in beefier poles become moot. The Lightreks are virtually weightless in your hands and swing effortlessly with a slight flick of your wrist, while the natural flex of the carbon fiber shaft absorbs shock. Sure, they are not as rugged as heavier poles – I certainly wouldn’t take them skiing or mountaineering. But for balance on the trail, and shelter supports in camp, you can’t beat them.
	Marmot Ion Windshirt www.marmot.com	This is my favorite windshirt by far. The Pertex Quantum shell offers a superb balance of breathability, light weight, compressibility, and durability. The full-zip offers ventilation options that make the shell usable over a broader range of conditions than pullover styles. The hood provides instantly available added warmth when needed. All this comes in a 3.2 ounce package (size large). Act fast if you want one with a Quantum shell; rumor has it that Marmot will switch to another fabric in 2007.

Will Rietveld, Packing & Shelter Systems Section Editor – Durango, Colorado


	Mountain Laurel Designs Prophet Pack www.mountainlaureldesigns.com	For ultralight backpacking, I find the frameless Mountain Laurel Designs Prophet backpack (6.1 ounces, 2600 cubic inches, $125) to be just right. In size Large, the Prophet is small and light enough to use for SuperUltraLight trips but has enough volume to easily handle multi-day ultralight backpacking trips with a 5-8 pound base weight. And it works equally well for overnight or week-long trips. Standard features on the Prophet are a waist strap, sternum strap, bottle holders, and a bungee attachment system, and all are detachable. I especially like its fit and comfort, large front mesh pocket, bottle holders, and optional sternum pouch to keep a bunch of smaller items handy. Mountain Laurel Designs is presently redesigning their gear line and production methods, so expect a few changes when the Prophet packs reappear in 2007.
	Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape www.sixmoondesigns.com	The Gatewood Cape (11.6 ounces, $110) is a poncho/shelter that triples as rainwear, pack cover, and shelter. It functions a bit better than an ordinary poncho because it has a full front zipper, and it provides a much better shelter than a poncho/tarp. Actually, the shelter is much like the Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo, but without the mesh entry and floor. I like to camp in the alpine zone above timberline, and find a poncho/tarp is a little too skimpy for shelter in wind-driven rain. The Gatewood Cape meets my needs. It weighs a little more than a minimalist poncho tarp, but the extra shelter is worth it, and I don’t have to carry a sleeping bag cover. I weathered a lot of storms under the Gatewood, including a 6-day trip where it rained almost continually and I used the Cape day and night. In using the Gatewood, my preference is to use a second trekking pole (or stick) to extend the front of the Cape to create a large beak for extra coverage, and also to provide more headroom.
	Tarptent Contrail www.tarptent.com	The Contrail is the newest addition to Tarptent’s growing lineup, and this one really shows the benefits of years of Tarptent innovation and refinement. At 24.6 ounces with floor ($199) and 20.5 ounces without floor ($169), the Contrail is Tarptent’s lightest tent, and almost matches the Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo for the honor of lightest single wall one-person floored shelter. The Contrail is the most versatile one-person tent I know of. It uses a trekking pole in front and has a convenience setup mode for fair weather and a bomber setup mode for more severe conditions. In bomber mode, the rear of the tent will flatten to the ground and the front beak can be extended to provide more vestibule space and allow the mesh entry door to remain open. It is the most condensation resistant single wall tent I have tested to date. I have weathered some wild rain and snow storms in the Contrail, and it has become a close friend.

Alison Simon, Editorial Assistant – Washington, D.C.


	Haglöfs LIM Ultimate Jacket www.haglofs.se	Over the past few years, it seems like I can count on one hand the number of days I’ve gone backpacking and not run into foul weather. Fortunately it’s almost always been rain. This gave me numerous opportunities to test rain jackets. And after testing rain jacket after rain jacket, I always say the same thing, “I miss my Haglös.” The Haglöfs LIM, at 8.8 ounces uses a breathable and light Gore-Tex PacLite Matrix shell. It has an excellent fully featured hood (three drawcord adjustments) and a stiffened brim that most times does not require a hat underneath (although it works fine with a hat as well). One chest pocket is just enough to keep small things readily available. But my favorite parts of the jacket are the thumb loops. With the thumb-looped-end of the sleeves over my hands I usually don’t need my gloves and I don’t have the warmest hands. Finally, the jacket has a long hem that goes below my butt and over the top of my legs. Unfortunately Haglöfs is still not distributing their products in the US. The closest place to get one is from a UK stockist.
	MontBell UL Down Inner Half-Sleeve Jacket www.montbell.com	My metabolism runs cold so I love everything down. MontBell’s new UL Down Inner Half Sleeve Jacket is a light solution to keep me warm in camp or at a trail stop. With 800 fill power down and a very light windproof 15 denier ballistic nylon shell it weighs only 6 ounces. I was skeptical of a short sleeved jacket but it has been warm and cozy on every fall trip this year – as warm as some jackets I own but lighter. The short sleeves trap warm air from escaping, unlike a vest where heat escapes out the sleeveless arm holes. Two hand warmer pockets keep my hands warmer than most gloves I own. The UL Down Inner Half-Sleeve Jacket eliminates the most damage prone part of any ultralight down jacket, the fore-sleeve – the place where cooking burns, food spills and tears and abrasions are most likely to occur. The jacket is not out in the US yet (in Japan only at this time), but MontBell expects it to be out in 2007.

Andrew Skurka, Ultralight Ambassador – Boulder, Colorado


	Bozeman Mountain Works NANO X-LITE Ultralight Backpacking Tarp Backpacking Light Store	The 3.2 ounce NANO X-LITE is probably the lightest functional shelter in the world. It’s not exactly the Taj Mahal of tarps – it measures 4.25′ x 7.75′ – but it has protected me well from rainy and windy conditions in both California and Colorado. (If possible I try to camp in naturally protected areas so that I can pitch the tarp off the ground, thereby increasing headroom and improving airflow.) Because it weighs so little, it makes an excellent shelter when one is only scarcely needed, like on the Pacific Crest Trail in June and on the shelter-heavy Appalachian Trail.
	GoLite Jam² Pack www.golite.com	The Jam² will be available this spring, along with eight other brand new packs from GoLite. I used a prototype this summer while hiking on the Pacific Crest and Colorado Trails, and was very impressed with the improvements that have been made from the first-generation Jam, which I used extensively during my hike of the Sea-to-Sea Route in 2004-05. The major improvements include: shoulder straps that are padded and contoured; a rear pocket that is larger and more space-efficient; larger delta fins that better distribute pressure; and a compression system that reduces pack volume by one-third.
	Photon Micro Freedom 1-LED Light www.photonlight.com	When the days are long – as they are in the summer, particularly in the northern states – it is fairly uncommon and mostly unnecessary that I hike in the dark. Quite often, however, I find myself pitching camp, cooking dinner, or journaling as the stars begin to populate the sky. For these months the Freedom Micro is all that I need: it provides adequate light if I need to hike a mile or two in the dark, and more-than-enough light for my nightly tasks. The best part: it weighs just 0.4 ounces, with a convenient clamp for the brim of my Headsweats visor.

Don Wilson, Clothing Systems Section Editor – Tucson, Arizona


	Coolibar Fingerless Gloves www.coolibar.com	Hiking in sunny conditions with trekking poles exposes your hands to enormous amounts of sunlight. I set out this year to find a product that would protect my hands, but would be comfortable in the desert heat. The Coolibar Fingerless Gloves are just what I was looking for. They weigh just 1.7 ounces per pair and are very comfortable in warm conditions. The fingerless style makes it easier to operate your camera, adjust zippers or perform other manual tasks. Coolibar offers a full-fingered version and other styles for those with different preferences.
	Pringles www.pringles.com	This is not a joke. The right food is important to hiking enjoyment and in 2006 I rediscovered Pringles. I hiked a lot of long days in 6 weeks on the PCT this summer, and I am always experimenting with foods that satisfy my hunger in the afternoon, when I may have hiked 20 miles, but still have more miles to go. Pringles taste great, pack well, add salt to your diet and are available in numerous flavors. Looking for a satisfying snack after a hot and long day – rediscover Pringles.
	Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag www.westernmountaineering.com	The Summerlite is nearly the perfect bag for summer conditions. It has kept me comfortable at temperatures just below freezing, has a full zipper, is plenty roomy, and is long enough for my 6’4″ frame. And best of all it weighs just 21 ounces (the regular length version is 2 ounces lighter). The Summerlite is the lightest fully baffled bag from Western Mountaineering and is now my favorite summer bag.

Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool REVIEW

The Icebox does the igloo engineering for you, but you still have a steep learning curve. Once you master the technique, you may discover a new and fun wintertime activity.

Introduction

The Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool is an alternative approach to building an igloo. Instead of the traditional method of packing snow, cutting blocks, carrying them, shaping them, and assembling them, the Icebox’s slip form and pivot rod allow you to build blocks in place which is a lot faster and dryer. Although the Icebox takes care of the igloo engineering for you, there’s still a lot of technique to master, as explained in its 20-page instruction book and video. In this review we describe how the tool works, assess how easy it is to use, and reveal how snow conditions affect its ease of use.

What’s Good

Compact and easy to attach to a pack
Weighs only 5 pounds, about the same as a tent
Packable, especially for group trips
Faster (and dryer) than conventional igloo-building methods
Relatively easy to use with packable snow
Builds a perfect igloo that is very strong

What’s Not so Good

Requires skill development
Challenging to use with sugar snow
Pivot stake loosens and moves

Specifications

Year/Manufacturer/Model	2005 Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Tool
Weight	Measured weight 5 lb 3 oz (2.35 kg), manufacturer specification 4 lb 14 oz (2.21 kg) excluding instruction manual and video
Materials	Sectional pivot pole is aluminum, all other components are ABS plastic
What’s Included	Slip form (outer panel, inner panel, end panel, U bar), pivot pole (four sections for different size igloos, plus an inner sleeve, toggle link and handle, socket end), and two stakes (one for deep snow, one for shallow snow), retainer clips and straps, instruction manual and video
MSRP	$176 US, optional door $40

Performance

Out of the box, the Icebox comes in a compact flat package measuring 24 inches x 14 inches x 3 inches. All of the components fit neatly inside the two halves of the block-molding form, and the unit is secured with two nylon straps. It’s concave on one side and easily attaches to the front of a backpack. With a packed weight of about 5 pounds (depending on which components you take), the Icebox is fairly lightweight (about the same weight as a 2-person tent) and very packable.

The Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool collapses to a compact 5 pound package (top left) that can easily be attached to a backpack. A long-handled shovel is essential to reach snow at the top of the igloo, and adds about 2 pounds to the carry weight. Inside (top right and bottom) are an assortment of parts that assemble to create the block-molding form and pivot rod shown in the next photos.
Photo: Janet Reichl

Compared to conventional igloo building methods – where you cut snow blocks, carry them to the igloo, and shape them to fit – the Icebox follows a completely different approach. It uses the basic concept of a cement form to construct the blocks in place. The main components are a center stake, a pivot rod, and a slip form at the end of the pivot rod which is packed with snow to create the snow blocks. The center stake and pivot rod serve to create a perfect dome-shaped igloo. With the slip form, the wall of the igloo is built by creating inclined blocks in place while advancing in a spiral. The result is a perfect igloo which is structurally a very strong shape. The cross-section is actually a catenary curve where the pressure pushing in is equalized by the pressure pushing down.

Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool REVIEW - 2
The Icebox block-making form is attached to a pivot rod that rotates around a center stake (left). The form is open on the right side (right) to allow it to overlap the previous block. Note: The igloo shown in the left photo is a poor example; it was our first one using scarce, poor quality snow. .
Photo: left – Will Rietveld, right – Janet Reichl

The igloo-building crew consists of a form handler inside the igloo and a shoveler on the outside. Because of these logistics, the minimum crew is two people; it’s simply not practical for one person to do both jobs. If more than two people are available, the other people can work in by trading jobs, building a ramp around the igloo (to stand on when the top is closed in), or fetching snow.

Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool REVIEW - 3
Here are a few accessories that come in handy when using the Icebox Tool. A long-handled shovel is essential to reach snow to complete the top of the igloo; the other accessories are nice to have. The form handler needs something to stand on when the top is closed in; we picture a bucket, but a snow mound or log will work. We found that the pivot stake holds best if secured with four long nails (the hammer is optional). A kneeling pad is handy for the form handler, and a water bottle and some snacks keeps him/her happy when “trapped” inside for a few hours. Finally, don’t forget the instructions!
Photo: Janet Reichl

To get the spiral started, you need to build three partial blocks to create a ramp (see photo below). Also it’s critical that the first layer be set at the correct inward angle. With each successive layer, five to eight in all, the length of the pivot rod is adjusted to place the slip form in exactly the right place and inward angle. The walls curve sharply inward at the top of the igloo, so the process changes to the person inside using only one side of the slip form to support the advancing wall being packed by a person on the outside.

Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool REVIEW - 4
Stages of igloo building. The first steps are to pack a platform and precisely angle the first course so it’s at the correct angle (left top). The first three blocks create a ramp, and the igloo is built as a succession of courses in a spiral (top right and middle left). The final courses are built against one side of the slip form (middle right). After the igloo is closed in, an entrance hole is dug to let the (panicked) form handler out (bottom left). Grand Shelters offers an optional fabric door to seal the entrance (bottom right).
Photo: top left – Kristen Nielsen, top right – La Donna Ward, middle two – Travis Ward, bottom left – La Donna Ward, bottom right – Janet Reichl

If you are following us so far, you are probably thinking “Hey, this is a piece of cake, let’s get one and have some fun building igloos with family, scout troop, or friends.” Well, there’s more that you need to know. The bottom line is this: the Icebox Tool takes care of the engineering part of igloo building, but there’s still a lot of technique involved that you need to master.

Here are a few technique factoids to illustrate the point:

You need to pack a solid platform for the igloo and let it set up
The center stake must be solidly planted so it doesn’t come loose
You need to learn the pivot rod settings to build the size igloo you want
You must set the first layer at the correct angle
Packing snow in the slip form requires skill and finesse (you need to pack snow to snow and expand the form a bit so it stays in place)
Releasing and moving the slip form requires skill so you don’t fracture the block you just completed
Transitioning from one layer to the next requires some finesse with adjusting the pivot rod length
Closing in the top requires a long reach and packing skills

We could go on in great length about all the nuances involved in mastering the technique, but we will spare you the details in this review. Fortunately, Grand Shelters is very straightforward about the steep learning curve, and provides lots of information on their website (including the user manual) to help you decide whether or not you want to purchase the tool. When you receive the Icebox Tool, it comes with a 20-page instruction manual plus a video to walk you through the learning process. We recommend reading the manual and watching the video several times, then building a smaller first igloo near home, then reading the manual and watching the video again, then advancing to building a larger igloo in the backcountry.

Last, and definitely not least, the type of snow makes a big difference with how easy it is to build an igloo using the Icebox tool. After building six igloos under different conditions we found the Icebox relatively easy to use with any snow that will form a snowball (new, wet or older snow), moderately easy to use with fresh powder snow, and challenging to use for sugar snow and depth hoar. The secret to using the latter types is pounding it repeatedly with your shovel before you load it into the slip form. Basically you are doing the same thing that an avalanche does with it – “warming” it up so it sets up well after it is packed in the form. Once you master that technique you will find that the Icebox tool will make an igloo with any type of snow. With sugar snow and depth hoar, it just takes more time and energy to do it.

Assessment

The Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool makes igloo building more do-able and fun for the average person. It handles the engineering aspects for you (which some people would argue is part of the challenge and fun), but leaves plenty of technique for you to master. Bottom line, it takes some determination and effort to master the technique, but once you become skilled, igloo building is a wonderful winter activity in snow country. Using the tool with any type of packable snow is relatively easy, however sugar snow is challenging but do-able.

One issue you are probably wondering about is whether the Icebox Igloo Building Tool can be relied upon as the only option for backcountry shelter. The short answer is that it depends on your expertise and travel plans. On the one hand it would be very risky to embark on a winter camping trip and depend on the Icebox to build an igloo shelter each night. But on the other hand you can build your own backcountry “hut” in advance and later camp in it, and it is entirely conceivable that you could build your own hut system. Other users may build an igloo in their backyard as a family activity, build one in the backcountry for a warming hut, or engage in recreational igloo building with friends.

The Icebox tool is made of high impact ABS plastic and aluminum tubing. It is the same plastic used for car parts and luggage, which means it’s extremely durable but not unbreakable. It is certainly possible to bend the pivot rod or break one of the plastic attachments, but with proper use the Icebox should last a lifetime.

What’s Unique

With the Grand Shelters Icebox Igloo Building Tool you use a slip form and pivot rod to build snow blocks sequentially in place, which is a lot easier and dryer compared to the conventional method of cutting blocks with a snow saw, carrying them, and fitting them.

Recommendations for Improvement

The Icebox is well designed and constructed. In many ways it’s a specialty tool that needs to be accepted on its own terms. However, a few tweaks here and there would help make it more user-friendly:

Re-write sections of the user manual to provide clearer instructions. The current narrative requires several reads to understand the process.
Provide a sturdier center stake that is less likely to loosen
Revise the design of the slip form at the U-bar end so it doesn’t slip down (with the present design, the form handler has to hold the form so it doesn’t slip down)
Provide a card summarizing the pivot rod settings that can be taken to the field, and/or improve the list imprinted on the slip form so it’s more easily understood
Simplify the strap system that secures the collapsed Icebox tool – possibly by putting arrows on the form to indicate the direction the straps are inserted.

Make Your Own Gear: Five Yards to SuperUltraLight
Part 2, Stuff Sack

Complete instructions to construct a 0.2-ounce stuff sack sized right to compress a SUL tarp (Part 3) into a tidy 4 x 4 x 8 inch bundle.

Editor’s Note: There are four articles in this series.

Part 1: Introduction and overview
Part 2: Stuff Sack (this article)
Part 3: Tarp
Part 4: Backpack

Overview

Cost (US$)	Weight (oz)	Time to construct (hours)	Skill (scale 1-10)	Tools (scale 1-10)
$140^*	0.2	1	2	7^**
^*This project is part of a series. The cost is for making all components.
^**Tools include a hobbyist level sewing machine.

This article is the second in a four part series on turning 5 yards of spinnaker fabric into a SuperUltraLight (SUL) tarp, pack, and stuff sack. Five Yards to SuperUltraLight, Part 1 showed how the fabric was divided efficiently into the various pieces for each project. In Part 2 we will construct a SUL stuff sack. I have used this stuff sack design for years. It has everything a stuff sack needs without extra bells and whistles, and can be made in under an hour. The simplistic design resonates in the 0.2-ounce final weight.

Recommended Materials and Equipment

Spinnaker fabric (12 inches x 16 inches, plus a small 2 inch x 2 inch triangular reinforcement piece)
Micro cordlock (1)
Length of Spectra cord (20 to 25 inches)
White Gutermann’s thread
Consumer grade sewing machine
Scissors, measuring tape, seam ripper, pins, pens, etc.

Make Your Own Gear: Five Yards to SuperUltraLight - 1
Pieces needed to build a SuperUltraLight (SUL) stuff sack; large piece of fabric (12 inches by 16 inches shown), small reinforcement triangle, small micro cordlock, length of Spectra fiber cord, and white thread (not shown).

Construction

Stuff sacks are quick and easy to make, requiring only the straight stitch. I will begin by sewing the draw cord sleeve along the top opening. Sew the sides and bottom in a single straight stitch. Add a couple additional stitches across the bottom to give it a square shape. I finish by sewing a small triangular reinforcement piece at the top, just under the draw cord opening.

Make Your Own Gear: Five Yards to SuperUltraLight - 2

Make Your Own Gear: Five Yards to SuperUltraLight - 3

Begin by determining the top of the stuff sack. For a stuff sack, usually the fabric is wider than it is tall, so the top will be one of the longer sides. In our 12 inch by 16 inch fabric piece, the 16 inch side is the top. The corners of the top are folded inward and sewn as shown by the red line. I fold in about 1 inch, and taper 3 inches down each side. This will allow an opening for the cord to pass through.


The next step is to fold over the top to the inside (left), in the same direction we folded the corners. I folded mine just a little over an inch. Use a straight stitch (right) to sew the flap down to create the cord sleeve for cinching the bag closed.



After folding the stuff sack in half, inside out, we sew around the perimeter of the open side and bottom starting from the top opening (top left). Sew down the stuff sack, turn at the corner (bottom), and complete the stitch with a reverse feed stitch at the bottom corner. Note that we do not begin sewing at the very top of the stuff sack (top right). This would seal the ends of the cord sleeve. We want to leave the ends of the folded sleeve open for the draw cord to pass through, so begin sewing where the sleeve’s horizontal seam meets the stuff sack edge, as shown in the top right photo.



I like to give the stuff sack a square bottom. The first step is to refold the stuff sack on its side, and inside out, with the corners folded down (top left). Next, mark the location of the seam. Since this bag is roughly 16 inches in circumference, or 4 inches on each side if square, our seam will be 4 inches in length (top right). Once marked, sew a straight stitch across each corner (bottom left) and trim off the excess material (bottom right).

Make Your Own Gear: Five Yards to SuperUltraLight - 13
The finished bottom will have a square shape and the seam work will resemble an “H.”


The top of the side seam, directly beneath the cord opening, receives the most stress and will be the first to fail if not reinforced. I reinforce this area using a small triangle of fabric (left). I place this on the outside of the stuff sack and sew around its perimeter (right).

Final Step

Finish the stuff sack by feeding a draw cord through the top sleeve and adding a small cordlock. My finished stuff sack weighs a scant 0.2 ounces and is sized just right for storing the tarp we will make in Part 3 of the Make Your Own Gear: Five Yards to SUL series. See you there.

Montane Prism Jacket SPOTLITE REVIEW

Pertex Microlight shell, PRISM synthetic insulation, 12 ounces with hood

Overview

The Montane Prism jacket is one of the lightest insulated jackets with a full hood, competing with the MontBell UL Thermawrap parka, which weighs in at nearly the same weight. Our sample jacket is a size large and weighs 12.9 ounces. The Prism has a Pertex Microlight outer shell, two hand warmer pockets and a full insulated hood. The insulation is 0.9 ounce (25 gram) PRISM synthetic insulation. The full zipper is backed by a storm flap. The Prism also features a drop tail, elastic cuffs, reflective flashes, draw cord hem and a beardguard at the chin.

The hood can be rolled up and secured with velcro around the neck. The hood is comfortable, but will not fit a regular size climbing helmet (Black Diamond Half Dome). The hood has a separate draw cord and cinches up tightly and easily. The underarms are designed with Montane’s Enhanced Breathing Panels.

The Prism has a lot of features for a synthetic insulated jacket at this weight, but the insulation is lighter and has less loft than some heavier jackets. This will of course reduce warmth, but perhaps make the Prism usable during more strenuous activity. The hood and full zipper will also contribute to making this a versatile layer. I’m looking forward to getting it into the field. As of the publication date, this jacket is not available from a US distributor.

Complete loft measurements and more details on the PRISM insulation will be included when we publish a full review after field testing.

The Montane Prism jacket has a full insulated hood and a drop tail

Features and Specifications

Pertex Microlight outer shell
12.9 ounces for size large
Full zipper
Insulated hood with draw cord
Draw cord hem
Elastic cuffs
MSRP $143 (110 Euros)

Tarptent Double Rainbow Tent REVIEW

Introduces some major advancements in single wall tent design and provides user friendliness not seen before in a single wall tent, but there are a few details that could be refined.

Introduction

Introduced in early 2006, the Tarptent Rainbow (one-person) and Double Rainbow (two-person) are a major departure from traditional Tarptent design. Instead of a front beak entry and headroom-only-at-the-front, the Rainbows use a monopole design with side entry through a vestibule. The design provides abundant usable space and headroom. It is also free-standing if you attach trekking poles to the ends. The Double Rainbow is a two-person/two-door/two-vestibule version of the Rainbow, and weighs 8 ounces more. This review assesses how the design and feature set of the Double Rainbow work for two people sharing the tent.

Tarptent Double Rainbow Tent REVIEW - 1
The Tarptent Double Rainbow at 11,800 feet in the Weminuche Wilderness, Colorado. The right vestibule is extended into a canopy supported by two trekking poles.

What’s Good

Very lightweight two-person shelter, only 2.5 pounds
Freestanding using trekking poles attached at the ends
Quick set up
Easy entry/exit
Loads of headroom and usable space
Two doors, each with a vestibule entry
Lots of vestibule space easily accessible from inside the tent
Good ventilation (with doors open)

What’s Not So Good

Velcro attachment for trekking poles gets tangled
Needs mid height guylines on ridge pole for extra wind stability
High vents are minimally effective with mesh doors closed
Tight quarters for two people
Difficult to attach Velcro tabs on vestibules from the inside

Specifications

Year/Manufacturer/Model	2006 Tarptent Double Rainbow
Style	Two-person single-wall tent with floor, free-standing with trekking pole attachment at each end. Floorless version is available
Fabrics	1.3 oz/yd² (44 g/m²) silnylon, 1.0 oz/yd² (34 g/m²) no-see-um mesh
Poles and Stakes	One 145 in (368 cm) center ridgepole, one 18 in (46 cm) strut on top; six 5.5 in (14 cm) tubular stakes. All are Easton 7075 E9 aluminum
Dimensions	Measured outside length 98 in (249 cm), width 52 in (132 cm) excluding vestibules Bathtub floor length 88 in (224 cm), width 48 in (122 cm), height 43 in (109 cm)
Packed Size	20 in x 4 in x 4 in (51 x 10 x 10 cm)
Total Weight As supplied by manufacturer with all included items	Measured weight 2 lb 8.9 oz (1.16 kg), manufacturer specification 2 lb 8 oz (1.14 kg); manufacturer specified weight without floor 2 lb 2 oz (936 g)
Trail Weight Includes minimum number of items needed to erect the tent	Measured weight 2 lb 7.7 oz (1.13 kg), includes tent body, poles, and stakes
Protected Area	Total covered area 50.4 ft² (4.7 m²), bathtub floor area 29.3 ft² (2.7 m²), entry vestibules are 7.5 ft² (0.7 m²) each
Floor Area/Trail Weight Ratio	11.8 ft²/lb based on 29.3 ft² floor area and weight of 2.48 lb
Protected Area/Trail Weight Ratio	17.9 ft²/lb based on 44.3 ft² floor + vestibule area and weight of 2.48 lb
MSRP	$250 with sewn-in floor, $225 without floor
Options	Clip-in liner $30, 4 oz (113 g); Tyvek groundsheet $12, 7.5 oz (213 g)

Performance

Like the Rainbow (1+ person), the Double Rainbow (2-person) is a monopole design with one center ridgepole spanning the length of the tent. The MontBell Hexagon uses a similar design but the sidewalls on the Hexagon drape inward from the pole, drastically reducing interior space. The Double Rainbow overcomes that problem (to some extent) by adding an 18-inch long perpendicular strut at the top to provide more interior width and anchor the two side vestibules.

Tarptent Double Rainbow Tent REVIEW - 2
Views of the Tarptent Double Rainbow. Entry is from the side (top left and right) through a vestibule on each side. Each vestibule has a top vent. The tent is supported by one long ridgepole through the yellow sleeve (bottom left), plus an aluminum strut in a webbing sleeve attached to the top. The ridgepole is 43 inches high at the center and very steep at the ends (bottom left and right), giving the Double Rainbow loads of headroom.

The Double Rainbow is a smaller two-person tent, with 29.3 square feet of floor area, only 6 inches wider than the Rainbow (one-person). Both tents use the same 18-inch strut attached to the top, which is the top width of the interior. The floor width (with bathtub walls up) of the Double Rainbow is specified at 52 inches, but I measured it to be only 48 inches. The interior width is tight for two people, and an additional 6 inches of width at both the floor and ceiling would make a big difference. The reason for the narrow floor width is the tent’s trekking pole attachment feature that enables the tent to be free-standing – most trekking poles only extend out to about 52 inches, so that sets the width.

The Double Rainbow will fit in a fairly small space, and like all Tarptents it’s very fast and easy to set up. Slide the ridge pole through the yellow sleeve and connect the grommet ends, stake out the four corners, and stake out the two side vestibules. Very little re-adjustment is needed, and all four corners have tensioners so you can tighten the tent without moving the stakes. The tent can be pitched with two trekking poles and two stakes in free-standing mode, or six stakes if you don’t use trekking poles and want more wind-stability.

The top strut resides in a webbing sleeve that is attached to the top of the tent. It must be removed if you prefer to stuff the tent into its stuff sack, or a better alternative is to fold the tent to the width of the top strut, roll it tightly with the poles and stakes inside, and slide it into its narrow stuff sack.

A unique feature of the Double Rainbow is that it’s freestanding if you attach extended trekking poles to the ends. The trekking poles attach to neoprene pockets at the corners and a Velcro strap at the center that wraps around the tent’s center pole. The system works, but its utility depends on the user and campsite conditions. In fair weather, the free-standing pitch is probably just fine. But in potentially windy conditions it’s prudent to stake the corners for wind stability, so why bother attaching trekking poles?

Another unique feature is the side vestibules will convert to a canopy supported by sticks or trekking poles (see photo below). This requires opening and attaching a panel that connects the two sides of the vestibule.

Tarptent Double Rainbow Tent REVIEW - 3
Outside features. The side vestibules (top left) are split in the center and fastened with Velcro strips. The photo shows one side of each vestibule rolled up. By unrolling and attaching a center section (top right), each vestibule will convert into a canopy supported by trekking poles. Attaching an extended trekking pole to each end of the tent (bottom left) makes it free-standing. All four corners of the tent have tensioners (bottom right), that allow the tent to be re-tightened without moving stakes.

Tarptent Double Rainbow Tent REVIEW - 4
Inside features. Each side has a mesh entry wall (top left) with an L-shaped zippered door. In good weather the Double Rainbow can really be opened up (top right) for great views and lots of ventilation. Headroom is outstanding. The floating bathtub silnylon floor (bottom left) is stretched taut by elastic cords that attach to the corner stakes. An optional clip-in liner is available (bottom right) to help moderate inside temperatures and condensation.

We found the inside floor space and elbow room to be barely adequate for two people. The tent is a bit on the narrow side because of the trekking pole free-standing design – the maximum length that most trekking poles can be extended is about 52 inches, so that is the outside width of the tent. The actual floor width is 48 inches, the width between the door openings measures only 43.5 inches because the sides drape inward, and the width at the ceiling is 18 inches. The result is confined interior space for two people. We easily adjusted and used the tent’s extra length and vestibules for storage. It helps a lot to leave the mesh doors open to increase elbow room.

Tarptent offers a clip-in liner for the Double Rainbow, which is claimed to moderate interior temperatures and intercept condensation. It might also be called a “condensation curtain” because its principal function is to create a dead air space between it and the tent ceiling, effectively creating a double-wall tent. We found that the liner does its job well, with condensation or frost forming above it, rather than on it, so moisture doesn’t transfer to clothing when we brush against it. The liner may be a good investment ($30, 4 ounces) for those more adverse to the condensation issue in single wall tents.

On our first trip with the Double Rainbow we discovered a major leakage problem that led to a recall of the first batch of tents sold. The tent leaked badly in a nighttime thunderstorm, even though I had seam sealed it. The problem was undercoated (defective) silnylon fabric that allowed water to wet through and migrate to the seams. Tarptent has corrected the problem and the replacement tent we received is perfectly sound and dry.

Tarptent Double Rainbow Tent REVIEW - 5
Drying out gear after a wet night in the original Tarptent Double Rainbow. Unfortunately, the first batch of tents was constructed of defective silnylon, which was undercoated and allowed water to pass through. The problem has been corrected and current tents are completely storm worthy.

After the initial snafu, we found the Double Rainbow to be very storm worthy. Its semi-dome shape deflects wind and rain well, but the vestibules flap in the wind. One of the vestibules blew open on one windy night. The bottom of the vestibules is raised off the ground about 8 inches (at the center), which helps to provide ventilation, but it also allows the vestibules to flap in the wind. The doors are secured with three Velcro strips, which are cumbersome to attach from the inside, especially in the dark. Although it might add an ounce or two, it would be nice (and more secure) to have zippers on the vestibules. For extra stability in strong winds, it would also be nice to have a tieout loop on each end about half way up on the pole sleeve to attach extra guylines.

Except in buggy conditions, it worked well to close the vestibules at night and leave the entry doors open for extra ventilation and elbow room. That combination resulted in minimal condensation inside the tent. Zipping the doors closed significantly reduced ventilation resulting in more condensation. The vents at the top of the vestibules do not have a very large opening to the inside, and do not ventilate the interior of the tent very much because air must pass through the mesh entry wall. When we did get condensation inside the Double Rainbow, we did not contact it very much because of the tent’s steep walls, and it was easy to wipe the walls with a pack towel or bandana.

Tarptent Double Rainbow Tent REVIEW - 6
Some issues with the Double Rainbow. The Velcro closure tabs on the vestibules (top left) often don’t line up and are cumbersome to fasten from the inside; a zipper would be much better. The Velcro trekking pole attachment at the ends (top right) creates a tangle and picks up debris. Interior width (bottom left) is tight for two people. With the vestibules extended, the top vents (bottom right) have a restricted opening, and do not directly vent the interior of the tent.

Assessment

Although the Tarptent Double Rainbow is a completely different design than the Tarptent Squall 2 and the Six Moon Designs Europa, it is interesting to compare the weight and protected area of these popular tents (see table below). The Double Rainbow weighs 7.4 ounces more than the Squall 2 and 4.8 ounces more than the Europa, mainly because of its long ridgepole. It has less floor area than the other tents, but much more vestibule area, so the protected area is about the same as the Europa and more than the Squall 2. The Double Rainbow has the lowest Floor Area: Weight Ratio while the Europa has the highest of the three tents. The differences are smaller in the Protected Area:Weight Ratio where the vestibule area is factored in, however the Europa still comes out on top. An important difference to note is that all of the Double Rainbow’s protected area is usable and there is plenty of headroom, not just headroom at the front.


	Trail Weight (lb)	Floor Area (ft²)	Vestibule Area (ft²)	Protected Area (floor + vestibule) (ft²)	Floor Area:Weight Ratio (ft²/lb)	Protected Area: Weight Ratio (ft²/lb)
Squall 2	2.02	27.9	8.1	36	13.8	17.8
Europa	2.18	34.3	10.7	45.0	15.7	20.6
Double Rainbow	2.48	29.3	15.0	44.3	11.8	17.9

Although it’s about a half pound heavier than a more minimalist two-person Tarptent, the Double Rainbow sets a new standard for user friendliness in a lightweight single wall tent. It is very easy to set up, easy to enter/exit, has loads of headroom, and its two doors and two vestibules are hard to beat. Its narrow floor width is snug for two people. Campers likely to choose the Double Rainbow because of its user friendly features would probably want a roomier interior, and they might be willing to trade off the trekking pole freestanding feature to get more floor width. For comparison, the Big Sky Products Revolution 2P or Evolution 2P (whose interior space we consider to be “ample”) is 4 inches wider (and 4 inches shorter) than the Tarptent Double Rainbow.

What’s Unique

At 2.5 pounds, the Double Rainbow is the lightest free-standing two-person single wall tent with two doors and two vestibules.

Recommendations for Improvement

While the Tarptent Double Rainbow introduces some major advancements in single wall tent design, and provides user friendliness not seen before in a single wall tent, there are a few details that could be refined.

Although attaching trekking poles gains a freestanding status for this tent, it also results in a tent that is narrow for two people. It would be nice to have an extra 4-6 inches of width.
The Velcro pole attachment straps easily become tangled. I would like to see a cleaner arrangement to attach trekking poles, and it would be nice if it were removable for those who don’t want to attach poles.
For extra stability in strong winds, add two mid-height guyline loops on the ridgepole.
Increase the size of the top vents.

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Tent REVIEW

A lightweight double-wall three-person tent with full storm protection and great views – but is it really sized for three?

Introduction

The Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 is among the lightest double wall, three-person tents on the market. It offers excellent views with the fly removed, full rain protection, and thoughtful design features. But how is the sizing for three adults?

What’s Good

Lightweight for a three-person double wall tent at just over 4 pounds
Good separation between inner tent and fly
Center pole greatly increases usable space
Quick and easy set up
Three well-placed interior pockets
Fantastic bug-free views with the fly removed

What’s Not So Good

Sized more like a 2.5 person tent
Lack of a vent leads to condensation inside the fly
Small vestibule
Rainfly storm flap snags in the zipper and is easily damaged

Specifications

Year/Manufacturer/Model	2006 Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3
Style	Two-person double wall tent
Fabrics	Fly is 20d silnylon ripstop with a 1200 mm waterproof polyurethane coating, body is 20d nylon mesh, floor is 30d ripstop silnylon with a 1200 mm waterproof coating
Poles and Stakes	DAC Featherlite NSL pole system – GREEN anodized 8.2 mm poles with press-fit connectors and lightweight hubs; 10 aluminum alloy square stakes 7.0 in (18 cm) long, 0.4 oz (11 g) each, 10 guylines with adjusters 0.1 oz (3 g)
Dimensions	Floor length 90 in (229 cm), width 58/73/51 in (147/185/130 cm) height 46 in (117 cm)
Packed Size	20.5 in x 7 in (52 cm x 18 cm)
Total Weight As supplied by manufacturer with all included items	Measured weight 4 lb 8.8 oz (2.06 kg), manufacturer specification 4 lb 8 oz (2.04 kg)
Trail Weight Includes minimum number of items needed to erect the tent	Measured weight 4 lb 2.9 oz (1.90 kg), includes tent body, fly, poles and three stakes
Protected Area	Floor area 36.0 ft² (3.3 m²)
Floor Area/Trail Weight Ratio	8.6 ft²/lb based on 36.0 ft² floor area and trail weight of 4.18 lb
MSRP	$285
Options	Aluminum poles $35, 9.6 oz (272 g); footprint $32, 8.8 oz (249 g)

Performance

The Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 is the larger version of the Big Agnes Seedhouse SL2. It is a double wall tent with a full mesh inner tent and a lightweight silnylon rainfly. Like the SL2, the SL3 features a single shock-corded ridge pole with dual hubs. In addition, the SL3 includes a second pole that crosses the middle for increased usable space and separation between the inner and outer tents.

At 4 pounds 2.9 ounces (trail weight), the Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 is one of the lightest double wall, three-person tents on the market. However, at only 36 square feet of floor space, it is tight for a three-person tent. Fitting three full-size adults in the SL3 requires that one person be facing the rear of the tent and that full-length sleeping pads overlap at some point. The vestibule is also too small to store three packs and still be able to enter and exit the tent. With this in mind, I would call the Big Agnes SL3 a “2.5-person tent”; it would be fine for a family of three that includes a young child and is very comfortable for two adults and gear.

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Tent REVIEW - 1
The Big Agnes SL3 is tight for three full-size adults.

Setting up the SL3 is very quick and can easily be done in just a few minutes. The main pole is deployed first and inserted into grommets at the corners of the inner tent and then attached with plastic clips. The middle pole is then attached to mid-point grommets and attached with plastic clips. The two poles do not connect at their intersection. On its own, the inner tent is freestanding and requires no stakes.

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Tent REVIEW - 2
An attachment to link the poles at the center junction would help with wind stability and snow loading.

The rainfly is pitched by attaching six snapping buckles at the base of the tent and then adjusting for equal tension. Two stakes at the front and one at the rear are all that are needed for a minimal setup with the fly. There are a total of six stakeout points on the inner tent and eleven on the fly for a grand total of seventeen.

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Tent REVIEW - 3
The rainfly is attached with six snapping buckles and secures with three stakes.

The inner tent of the SL3 is made entirely of 20 denier nylon mesh with a 7.5 inch high bathtub floor. With the rainfly off, this tent offers complete 360 degree views, one of the best views I’ve ever seen in a tent. This was especially nice during nights with heavy bug pressure; after using mainly single wall tents for quite a while, the expansive views while hiding from mosquitoes was a wonderful change. While the mesh of the inner tent gives the impression of being fragile, no damage occurred during field testing.

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Tent REVIEW - 4
The SL3 without fly offers excellent views and a great refuge from bugs.

Internal storage of the Big Agnes tent is excellent. There is a wide pocket above the door and another pocket on either side of the door. The use of mesh makes it very easy to see individual items and there is plenty of room for cameras, headlamps, sunglasses, etc. Despite stuffing the pockets, we never experienced any snags or tears in the mesh fabric.

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Tent REVIEW - 5
A large upper pocket (shown) and two lower pockets are great for organization.

The silnylon rainfly and generous bathtub floor offer full rain protection during downpours. While I didn’t experience snow loading with this tent, when we reviewed the Seedhouse SL2, it held up nicely to several inches of snow. With the middle pole in addition to the ridge pole, I would expect that the SL3 would have similar, if not better results than the SL2.

When camping in moderate winds at the treeline, the SL3 showed solid wind stability. By using the guylines that are midway up the fly, the tent experiences very little side to side movement. However, the rainfly does not attach to the poles at these points so the fly pulls away from the tent structure. While this is common in three-season tents, attachment points like this help a great deal with wind stability. Further, the middle and ridgeline poles do not attach at their intersection, instead they “float” independently of each other. In heavy winds, it would be nice to have the option of locking those together (although it would be very easy with a Velcro strap). With its generous guyouts, steeply-sloped front and rear, and good pole structure, the SL3 handles moderate winds very well. With some modifications (Velcro strap at the intersection and sewn-in Velcro attachments at the upper guyout points), it would be able to handle very high winds.

Headroom in the SL3 is very good – especially in the middle of the tent. I’m 6 feet 1 inch tall and I have plenty of room to sit up and stretch out, even with another hiker in the tent. The door area is much lower however, and requires bending over to enter the tent. With the rainfly attached, entry into the tent is even harder. A larger entryway or a second door would be a welcome addition, especially in a three-person tent.

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Tent REVIEW - 6
While the height in the middle of the tent (left) is comfortable for a tall hiker to sit up, the entry (right) is much more cramped.

With the mesh inner tent and good separation between the inner and outer tents, I never experienced condensation inside the inner tent during field testing. However, I experienced quite a bit of condensation on the inside of the rainfly. This is due to restricted airflow.

The best ventilation systems in tents tend to use a “high/low” system of venting in which air flows from a lower vent through a vent up high, creating a chimney effect. While an overhang at the rear of the SL3 allows for the low part of that system, the lack of an upper vent traps air under the fly. While this is not a huge problem due to the double wall design (and the ability to carry the rainfly separately from the inner tent), a high vent on the rainfly would significantly increase airflow, ventilation, and condensation resistance.

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Tent REVIEW - 7
An overhang at the rear of the fly helps with airflow and ventilation.

While I didn’t experience any durability problems with the inner tent, the rainfly was damaged by an overzealous hiker. The storm flap of the rainfly tends to get caught in the zipper. This is definitely annoying and makes it difficult to quickly close the rainfly. With practice, though it isn’t too hard to separate the two when zipping. One night, however, a hiking buddy experienced this problem and forced the stuck zipper along, tearing the fly. While this was obviously hiker error, I took this as an opportunity to look at Big Agnes’ customer service. They were wonderful and had a completely new fly out to me within a week. While you shouldn’t experience a similar problem, it is nice to know that Big Agnes stands behind their products with integrity.

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Tent REVIEW - 8
The front storm flap snags easily in the zipper and was damaged by an overzealous hiker during testing. Although this was due to user error, Big Agnes quickly replaced the entire rainfly.

Assessment

The Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 is an excellent double wall tent. However, the small door, small vestibule, and limited interior space make it pretty cramped for three adults. But if you think of it as a 2.5 person tent (two adults plus gear), it quickly moves to the head of its class. This is a great tent for a family of three or two hikers looking for extra room.

What’s Unique

The full mesh inner tent makes for excellent views during heavy bug pressure.

Recommendations for Improvement

The biggest improvement to the Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 would be a name change to the SL2.5. To be a great three-person tent it would need:

Several more inches of width
A larger door (or a second one)
A larger vestibule

Beyond that, my recommendations are minor:

For increased wind stability, pole attachments at the upper guyline attachments and a connection at the pole junction would be nice, but are probably beyond the scope of this three-season tent.
A reinforcement of the storm flap on the rainfly would also be nice – if only to avoid damage caused by heavy-handed hikers.
An upper vent on the fly would really help with ventilation.

Wise Women Go Light, Part 2

Jean and Sue select and test lighter gear from a dizzying array of choices while receiving an avalanche of expert advice – which they accept with trepidation, reject, or take on wholeheartedly – all the while listening to their own self-wisdom gained in their six (or near six) decades of life experience.

Introduction

Wise Women Go Light, Part 2 - 1
Jean (with ULA Circuit pack), Odie, and Sue (with Six Moon Designs Essence pack) near Mt Hood.

It all began at 7000 feet on a backpacking trip along the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) with this simple question, “How much of this stuff do I really need, anyway?” We, Sue and Jean, had contacted Backpacking Light and found online Editor-in-Chief, Carol Crooker, eager to help us older women lighten our packs. She wanted to document the process so that others new to lightweight backpacking would benefit from reading about our concerns and experiences. Our starting points were a 20 pound baseweight for Jean and 14 pounds for Sue. (Baseweight is the weight of your pack and everything in it except food, fuel and water.)

A storm of emails between Carol and ourselves began, as she answered our questions, pointed us toward additional resources, and solicited the advice of fellow staffers at Backpacking Light and her many corporate contacts. The flurry of emails, articles, reviews, gear store visits, advice, and gear testing hiking trips alternated between inspiring eye opening transformation and fear of being buried under an avalanche of information and change. At times we wondered what we had been thinking to begin this process of going light! But we were wise enough to realize the long term benefits of lighter packs, so we persisted. Join us on our journey.

Tents and Shelters

Jean’s thoughts: I’ve been looking for a free standing, lightweight shelter for two years now. Sue and I came across the Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo e tent, and since Six Moon Designs is located near us, we each bought one. The Solo e is okay, but I’ve continued looking. The Solo e has to be staked carefully, you can’t easily move it, and I have never been able to get the pitch taut. The walls sag, and I frequently brush up against them when I am in the tent. Other than that, the tent is fine and I can continue to use it. Tents are my favorite item, so when we started on this project, I hoped I might find another tent. But the weight of the Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo e is hard to beat at 35.2 ounces complete with poles. Plus, Carol had just let me know that I might be able to use my walking stick for the front pole, which would further decrease the weight.

Carol asked her staff experts about floorless tents to beat the already low weight of the Lunar Solo e, and here’s what they wrote:

Doug: “Nah – I wouldn’t do it. The one that comes to mind is a floorless Tarptent (wise women don’t want to deal with bugs and this tent has netting) but it’s a hassle to set up and, with the required groundsheet, doesn’t save all that much weight anyway.

I’d recommend a Tarptent Squall 2 with the floor – the bathtub is so good that they’ll never get wet and they’ll hardly miss their old tent. An easy transition…”

Carol: “Thanks Doug. Sounds good. Both the ladies have Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo e tents so I don’t think you can go any lighter and still be in a tent. We were looking at the new Tarptent Rainbow, but that’s not lighter.”

Alan: “Yeah, that’s probably true, Carol. If you are doubling up, the Outdoor Research Nighthaven is lighter and roomier (per person) and provides bug protection and full wind protection. But the Nighthaven is not anywhere near as ventilated, nor does it have the views of the Lunar Solo e.”

Jean: I was really excited to learn there was a lightweight, free standing tent out there that I could use my trekking poles on (Tarptent Rainbow). But, since it didn’t beat the Lunar Solo e on weight, it wasn’t a good candidate for this project.

Sue’s thoughts: My comments about the Lunar Solo e were the same as Jean’s – that it was difficult to get taut. Carol encouraged me to contact Ron at Six Moon Designs and have him set up the tent for me so that I could see how to fix the quirks.

When I read Carol’s message about a floorless tarp, I thought “A floorless tarp and the Oregon damp weather – how do you think that would work?” Washington weather is even worse for moisture. I was glad to not consider something lighter if it would be floorless.

I did wonder if there was something that might be a little bigger, as I’d started taking my dog, Odie, with me on hikes. At 31 pounds, he needs some space of his own in the tent. He is a nine-month old puppy and is a momma’s boy, he does not like me out of his sight. I have never had a dog that was so attached to me – it would be difficult to leave him home and he has wonderful long legs for hiking.

Sleeping Bags, Pads, Quilts

Jean: I got an Ultralite sleeping bag from Western Mountaineering. Looking forward to seeing how it does.

Sue: The Gossamer Gear NightLight foam torso pad sounded better then the foam pad I was using and is an ounce lighter, so that was an easy switch.

I have debated using a quilt instead of a bag for several years and have wondered how I would do. I wriggle a lot and most times it seems the bag wins the wrestling match. Carol said that she had used the Jacks ‘R’ Better quilts and that she turns over a lot. She had found the quilts to be wide enough for her and encouraged me to give one a try, so I did.

Carol also gave me some pointers on using a quilt:

“The advantage of quilts is that they are versatile. You can wrap one around you in camp – the Jacks ‘R’ Better No Sniveller even converts into a poncho in camp – and there is room to wear insulating clothing underneath so you can use it for its rated temperature or add extra clothing when it’s colder. Quilts take more practice to use than a mummy bag. I’m a side sleeper and like to tuck the side under my hip to hold it in place since it’s warmer that way. When I turn over, I tuck it in on the other side. You’ll need to wear a hat with a quilt since it has no hood, and I like to wear a jacket with hood as well to keep drafts off my neck. Your rain gear can serve for that, or a 4 ounce windshell. You may find that you like to use a bivy sack with a quilt – it helps even more to keep out drafts. If you sew, a bivy sack is easy to make. If not, there are lightweight ones by Equinox LTD, Bozeman Mountain Works, and Fanatic Fringe.”

I’m a side sleeper also, wear a hat even with my bag, and have even worn my rain gear to keep warm, so I wanted to give this quilt a good test.

Boots, Shoes and Socks

There was, from the start, a fundamental difference in opinion about shoes and socks. Carol’s experts weighed in with advice on shoes:

Alan: “Set them up with a pair of lighter non-Gore-Tex trail ‘boots’ (really high top trail tennies) and a light ankle gaiter like the REI Mistrals or an Outdoor Research shortie gaiter. I’m having a hard time understanding what the advantage of Gore-Tex is in a shoe.”

Ryan: “Are they arthritic? The Timberland Gore-Tex Cadions may be ok for them. As women get older, the circulation in their feet gets severely impaired and when their feet get cold, they cease to function due to loss of blood flow. Gore-Tex can keep their feet from getting too cold, but if they don’t have problems, I’d skip the Gore-Tex too.”

Will and Janet: “September is dry in Oregon, so non-Gore-Tex boots would breathe much better. Maybe they should look at low cuts by Merrell or Vasque. They are fairly light, but are still a hiking shoe compared to the others we often use, which are really adventure racers or trail runners. Janet personally prefers a low cut trail running shoe for everything. She has tried a lot of mid and full height boots and they don’t agree with her feet.”

Doug: “I’d go for a comfy running shoe with a shortie eVENT gaiter from Integral Designs. And make sure they use SmartWool socks – especially if things are wet. I agree with everyone on Gore-Tex – I only use them when trying to retain heat as in snowshoeing. In warmer conditions, Gore-Tex shoes get wet from the inside. But more breathable shoes can get wet from the outside (beginners are always scared of this) and you want the wise women to stay warm following river crossings, so wool socks are critical.

I set my Mom up with trail running shoes that had lots of cushioning (Asics fit her best), SmartWool socks, and stretch shortie gaiters from REI. Those were fine for my Mom’s situation, but the eVENT is better when things get really wet – the stretch is better for the desert. My mom was thrilled with this set-up, and she’s in her sixties.“

Jean: I was glad to read their advice about shoes, especially since my favorite of favorites for shoes has always been Asics. I was glad to see these shoes were recommended by Doug.

Sue and I tried the Timberland Cadions, and I liked them, but they might be a little too narrow for my feet. Hard to tell as I didn’t keep them on too long. Sue didn’t like them because they are high tops and rub her ankle. We found a lightweight Salomon Gore-Tex XCR trail running shoe. I think it weighed 1.3 pounds. The same style shoe without the Gore-Tex didn’t fit my foot right. I am so used to the higher boots that I worry about my heel sliding up and down. But, I am willing to get out of my zone and try something different.

I am thinking that Sue and I need to take some different items to compare. She wants to stick with shoes with the Gore-Tex. I am up to trying some without it.

I asked Carol about the SmartWool socks. She let me know I didn’t need a liner with them, and that I could get the crew style for low top shoes. I also asked her about using hiking boots that came above the ankle for ankle support and for keeping out water and my feet dry.

Carol wrote: “What I understand is that ankle support is provided by how your foot fits in the base of the shoe. Taller boots protect your ankles from thorns and scraping against rocks, but do not necessarily provide good ankle support. After using high top boots for a long time, your ankles may be weaker than if you had been using low top shoes all along.”

Sue and I initially rejected Carol’s suggestion of wearing trail shoes as being completely out of the question. However, as more and more people put in their two cents worth, we decided to at least try out some trail shoes – knowing full well that you need boots to hike in the northwest. So, in June, Sue and I did a two-day, one-night trip up Eagle Creek in the Columbia River Gorge.

I owned one pair of low cut shoes (cross trainers, trail runners, whatever you call them) that had Vibram soles, and I wore them. It rained and rained, and we crossed numerous creeks full of snow runoff. Boy, crossing the creeks was something else – my little feet would ache from the cold. I found that a no dilly-dallying philosophy worked well: cross the creek and keep moving. Within twenty steps, the SmartWool socks warmed up my feet and the walking was enjoyable again. Due to the rain, the shoes and socks never got completely dry, but my feet did not look like prunes at the end of the day (which I had experienced in similar conditions with different gear in the past). My feet did get cold when we would stop for a rest on snow, as it didn’t take long for the cold to migrate up through the soles of the shoes when standing in one place.

That trip, by the way, was to be a two-night trip, but Sue decided we needed to do a 20+ mile day, so we did, and eliminated one day. I was amazed that we could so easily go that distance. I credit our lighter packs with this accomplishment.

I was afraid that my ankles would roll without the high tops of my hiking boots. There were times when crossing slopes, that I could feel the lack of support. However, I have switched to Merrell’s “Overdrive” shoes since the Columbia River Gorge trip. They are also low top, but are more supportive for my ankles. I think when it comes to shoes, you just have to be willing to try different types until you find what works best for you.

Sue: “Try low cut shoes,” the experts said. You have got to be kidding! I thought. But, I did read that every pound on your foot is like five pounds on your back, so my high top 41.3 ounce shoes are replaced with 20.0 ounce low cut Gore-Tex shoes. I tried on a pair of Timberland Cadions, but the high top rubbed on my ankle. I wanted to do the lightweight trail runners, and it sounded as though the Timberland Delerion Low with Gore-Tex might just work. I thought it would be wonderful to have the integrated shortie gaiters that come with the shoes. I like wearing gaiters even with my higher cut shoes.

I also tried on a pair of running shoes and liked the Salomon Ortholite Gore-Tex. They weighed in at 22.6 ounces. I told Carol “I guess you know that both Jean and I are leery of not doing Gore-Tex.”

“No Gore-Tex! Don’t you know that Oregon is known for its rain?” the experts cried. Another low cut shoe is purchased with much apprehension and wondering how in the world are my feet going to stay dry and warm. After a 30-mile overnight hike in the Gorge with snowpack, rain, and having to wade through stream after stream, I became totally convinced of the value of not wearing Gore-Tex shoes. The term ‘walk yourself dry’ was proven to me on this wet hiking experience.

I was sure the SmartWool socks wouldn’t work for me – I’d felt they had failed me once before. But, Carol and others recommended them so strongly, that I eventually heeded their advice.

Clothing

Wise Women Go Light, Part 2 - 2
Odie and Sue approaching Timberline lodge at Mt Hood.

Jean: I overheat a lot when I backpack. My dad, who is a doctor, said my thermostat malfunctions – how encouraging. Sue can be cool as a cucumber and I will be drenched. I give off so much heat that I found that even the lightest hat doesn’t let enough air circulate. That’s why I tried the umbrella hat on a whim. It shaded my head/face, let air flow unimpeded over my head, and the band acted as a sweatband.

I had been using my rain jacket to put over my fleece or t-shirt when it got windy or colder. I found that when I took it off, it would be wet inside from all that moisture my body is giving off. I was thinking that putting on a wind shirt, which breathes better, would enable more of this moisture to escape. I asked Carol what she thought, and she said that was the main reason many of the staff wore a wind shirt. I looked at the GoLite Wisp wind shirt. It only weighs 2.5 ounces which is less than a t-shirt weighs. I also looked at the RailRiders Eco-Mesh Shirt – 5 ounces that would provide lots of cooling and sun protection for when it is hot. The RailRiders women’s Speed-T weighs 3 ounces which is 2 ounces less than my Duofold t-shirts.

I asked Carol if there was anyone on staff that could put together a good layering system for someone like me and she gave me a general layering system that is commonly used:

Thin wool or synthetic shirt (worn alone if warm enough) and windshirt (added when cooler). These two layers cover most trail hiking even in quite cool conditions. Then in camp or at rest stops add a puffy layer. Choose a rain jacket sized to go over the puffy layer for in camp use.

Carol also provided some advice about the individual layers: “The consensus is that the Integral designs eVENT jacket is the best for hiking in really wet conditions since eVENT it is the most breathable waterproof/breathable fabric and Integral Designs has the lightest design for eVENT rain jackets. Of course, the Integral Designs eVENT jacket is heavier than other lightweight rain jackets, so you pay a weight penalty (it’s also sized small and you need to size up if you want to wear it over your insulating clothing).

The lightweight favorite rain jacket now is the Outdoor Research Zealot (although GoLite is coming out with the 6-ounce Virga in the fall). (Editor’s note: The production Virga available as of fall 2006 has gained 2 ounces with the addition of pockets.) Other good options that will save you a couple of ounces over what you have now are the Marmot Precip and REI Ultra Light raincoats that have pit zips for ventilation – or any other 12-ounce raincoat with pit zips.

Keep the fleece – nice and warm and you can wring it out if it gets really wet.

RailRiders has good sun shirts and they dry in a flash. I wear a RailRiders Adventure shirt (same as the Eco-Mesh but with longer sleeves for my long arms) in the summer as a base layer and a SmartWool zip neck long sleeve shirt all other times of the year. For hikes where I might be soaked all the time, a synthetic base layer – but not the Eco-Mesh – might be good. The Eco-Mesh is quite cool with the side mesh panels. Any breeze blows right through so it’s great as a sun shirt but won’t keep you as warm as a traditional synthetic base layer. The GoLite C-thru Lite-weight tops are very light and nice base layers (although they do snag easily).”

Sue: For years I had been wearing a fishing vest that had pockets galore, and I always stuffed them full while thinking that this is really not pack weight because I am wearing it. “Let the vest go,” was in one of the first e-mails from Carol. Nine ounces gone so quickly. That’s okay because I still have all my pockets in my pants to transfer stuff to. Well, that did not work well at all, as the crotch started to sag toward my knees. Then I discovered pants that only weighed half as much as my 11.9 ounce ones and as the ‘lightening the load’ process continued all those pockets are history, and one side of a closet shelf is starting to fill up with gear no longer used.

I asked Carol about the wool/synthetic layer in her layering recommendation, and she had this to say: “For shirts – I’ve really come to love very lightweight wool. It is comfortable in a broader range of temperatures than synthetic, and doesn’t smell as much. I was surprised wool would work for me, but it does. I hike in a long sleeved wool zip neck shirt (SmartWool Lightweight Zip-T) up to the 70’s and it keeps me warmer at night than a thin synthetic. The wool has to be high quality – 18.5 micron or less so it doesn’t itch. It has to be thin so it dries quicker. Examples are SmartWool microweight or lightweight, Icebreaker Superfine or Skin, and Ibex Woolies. Although I prefer long sleeves (more sun protection), SmartWool has microweight t-shirts. Check it out. Wool will weigh a bit more, but will also keep you warmer. If you like synthetic, GoLite C-thru Lite-weight is very nice and very light.”

Stoves

Jean: I still have a canister stove, but had used my home made Pepsi can stove for over a year. I have relegated my canister stove for short trips when I want to bake some cornbread or make an omelet with fresh eggs. To me, going lighter does mean giving up the more gourmet cooking and sticking to the ‘boil water, add food, and eat’ mentality. This is really fine with me. Going lighter means going simpler for many things. I will be experimenting with the Ultralight Outfitters Beercan stove. I am trying to do away with my travel mug for my morning tea and the beer can will, hopefully, double as my tea cup.

Food and Water

Jean: Carol suggested Aqua Mira to lose 12 ounces of weight from my water filter. I am not ready for that yet. There have been times when I have been out of water completely and when I got to a water source, I didn’t want to wait even a half hour before I could get a drink. I am doing away with my old water filter. I have been trying an in-line filter. It has worked really well. I just fill up my Platypus and start drinking. I am having a hard time getting the water into the small opening of the Platypus since Sue and I eliminated the Platypus Big Zip Hoser because the top is too hard to close. I am sure there is a secret to getting water into the bladder and when I am enlightened, it will work just fine. I will also be using the in-line filter to filter larger quantities of water when in camp if we are by a water source. This will save Sue from having to use her Aqua Mira supply up.

Looking at the Backpacking Light website, I was intrigued with the “make your own in-line filter” stuff. I have the Sweetwater in-line Siltstopper. You use the in-line filter for a gravity fed system into a second bladder or cooking pot. By using that, I was able to eliminate the heaviest part of my Sweetwater Filter: the cartridge.

Sue: As a vegetarian, I’m always looking for different types of high calorie, lightweight trail meals. I was using Pack-lite Foods, but Carol also pointed me to Cache Lakes and Adventure Foods. She also pointed out an article on vegetarian foods.

Bear Bags and Tools

Wise Women Go Light, Part 2 - 3
Jean looking happy with her light load near Olallie Lake on the PCT in Oregon.

Jean: Sue has never used or carried a bear bag. I have been carrying an Ursak bear bag. I purchased it when I was going on my first backpack on the Appalachian Trail. Since then, I have always kept my food in it…but not always hanging it.

Carol wrote: “It is about risk assessment and maybe becoming more tolerant to some risks. Imagine driving down a busy highway at 65 mph or through a busy city when you first got your driver’s license. Quite risky. It probably doesn’t feel so risky now. Yet traveling by car is still far more likely to be fatal than going for a backpacking trip with no bear bag for example.”

What Carol wrote is true, and I hope to never see a bear poking around my tent at night. However, my “better safe than sorry” motto comes into play here. So, I am still taking a modified bear bag for “just in case.” I am using a plastic Wal-Mart sack and a Watchful Eye Designs O.P. (odor proof) Sak and AirCore spectra cord. I will keep all of my food, etc. in the O.P. Sak inside the plastic bag. This will eliminate weight. If I am in an area with a lot of bear potential, I can use the cord to hang the sack. If not in a bear potential area, I will sleep more soundly knowing that the little critters of the night can’t smell all the good stuff I have in my tent.

Sue: I wanted to condense my watch and altimeter into one unit as a wristwatch. I asked Carol what she could find out about one with other features like temperature and wind speed that would be nice. I had looked at some, but they were so big for my wrist. I had carried my old one in one of my vest pockets, but now that I’d eliminated the vest and the pockets, I needed a new solution. One of the first things Carol wanted to know was if it was an essential item or a ‘just like to have’ item. She noted that there is no right answer. Even if it’s a non-vital item, it may be something a person chooses to carry anyway. As Carol said, dropping pack weight is all about choices and balance.

I thought about this. Several years ago, we did a hike by Mt. Jefferson on the PCT, in fact this was our first overnight. Lots of snow still on the trail in places. We cut across an opening to hit another trail at a lower elevation for camping that evening, but could not find the trail because of the snow. We spent the night on a ridge and in the morning with some exploring we found the trail below us several hundred feet down in elevation. We feel that an altimeter would have enabled us to have found the trail the previous day since our map showed the elevation of the trail. Will this scenario happen again? I can’t say. I’m chuckling to myself as I write this because I really cannot say if this is just a fun item to have or an essential item.

Carol’s expert, Rick, steered me toward combo units that are worn around the neck on a lanyard or clipped to a pack or clothing. Not only are the wrist models all huge – even for many men – but he advised that the interfaces on the wrist models tend to be difficult to learn, and more importantly, to remember how to use in the field.

I finally purchased a lanyard watch, altimeter combo plus other goodies and with the attach ring taken off it neatly fits into one of my hip belt pockets on my pack. At 1.7 ounces I decided it is an essential item, but then again this could change.

Feelings

Jean: Depending on what I am giving up, my feelings range from excitement to anxiety.

I have looked forward to and enjoyed trying out several different tents. Each tent has been so completely different from one another that it is fun to see how they have compared in ease of set up, room inside, etc. I had wanted to try a new tent for these articles, but since Sue and I both own Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo e tents – and they are the lightest and roomiest – there wasn’t much to try in going lightweight. The tents we have are OK, but I am still looking for my “ideal” tent. It is somewhere out there and all I have to do is find it. It might not be made yet, but someday it will.

My anxiety was high when it came to trying the low cut and not waterproof shoes. All the articles I had read had stressed the need to keep your feet dry. It took Carol and Gardner from SmartWool to convince me to try out some SmartWool socks and some low cut mesh type shoes. I admit I had pre-programmed these for failure. I was greatly surprised at how warm my feet were when crossing creeks and walking on snow. They did not completely dry, but I think that was because it never stopped raining for long. They made crossing the creeks much easier than with my old boots. I didn’t have to try and not get the shoes wet, they were lightweight, and they gripped the rocks well. The mesh allowed the water to drain out fast and the shoes were very comfortable to wear.

I am not ready for the Aqua Mira water treatment just yet. This is due to my tendency to overheat and when I want water, I want it now, not in an hour or two. I like the in-line filter: sort of a filter as you go type scenario. I also like the idea that you can filter larger quantities of water using gravity when stopped for lunch or in camp. I admit I brought my old water filter along when I first used the in-line filter for a “just in case the in-line filter fails.” I do not carry my old filter as a back up anymore.

I am the type of person who gets comfortable with a routine and when the routine changes or something new is added, it causes anxiety and doubt. I am an old dog that you can teach new tricks to, but I have to see the trick and think about it for awhile.

You could also compare me to a swimmer. Sue is like the person who doesn’t feel the water to see how cold it is, she just dives off the dock. I like to test the water with my feet for awhile, then I get wet up to my knees. If all goes well and I am not an ice cube, I get wet up to my waist. If all is still going well, I grit my teeth and submerge myself. Then I come to the surface and I always feel great.

It has been this way when it came to lightening my backpack weight. I got my feet wet by realizing that I was carrying too much weight. I made a Pepsi can stove as my first project to lightening my load. I got a lighter tent, sleeping bag, and backpack and took less clothes, pots, first aid, etc. and progressed up to my waist in the water. I am about ready to submerge myself, but for now I will be keeping my head above water…which means I am excited about all the changes I have made and am making, but not sure if I will go from my 20 pound baseweight to below 10 pounds. I will watch Sue this year and see how she makes out going sub-10 (her goal), then decide if my head will go under the water or not.

Sue: The past year of browsing outdoor stores, reading articles pertaining to the latest lightweight gear and the frustration of trying to make the right decision on gear is beginning to take a toll on my stress level.

One of our first projects we were asked to do is to weigh everything and this word ‘everything’ means just that. Soon gear is sprawled across counters and table tops and a list of items soon emerges, I am amazed how fast ounces can add up to make a pound and then another and another.

I now take my scales with me to the outdoor stores. Everything I buy is weighed on the spot and I am sure that the little gray-haired lady be-bopping through the store is a source of merriment for all the souls that observe her.

This past spring has just been like Christmas with packages arriving at the door and the kid inside me is excited. Concerns mount within me as I examine the Jacks ‘R’ Better quilt, will it keep me warm? Raincoat and pants seem paper thin and I am afraid to handle them and gently they are hung in the closet. I visit Ron at Six Moon Designs for a 13-ounce Essence pack. This is a long ways from my 6-pound beginning pack four years ago. Both Jean and I receive a lesson from Ron on getting our Lunar Solo e tents taut. I finally get it.

Lightening pack weight entails stepping out of our comfort zone and leaving things home. In this materialistic society that we live in, things mean security. Security is what we want to be assured of as we push out into the wilderness.

My hiking journey still travels the route of counting doubt in the darkness, holding on to some lingering fears, and now adding to it, the thought of leaving some stuff home. What on earth have I started here? Then the sunrise makes its appearance and for a while the fears subside and I dare to venture forth again.

So the first year of gear searching passes and we amass what we think is lightweight gear. On a few overnight trips though we are still hovering around 25 to 30 pounds total pack weight. We recognize that we still have a lot to learn so we confine our hiking to the Oregon country, close to home with those four wall comforts to soothe our sore muscles.

Nervousness rules the days as several times I walk in to admire the closet contents of new gear. Time is drawing near for our Columbia River Gorge overnight hike and the realization that just admiring gear in the closet doesn’t cut it. The pack load feels like nothing as I set foot upon the trail and a panic button goes off – perhaps I am not prepared enough. Our trailhead chauffeur has departed and we have no recourse except to experience what we have put into action.

This earthly body has set forth a new adventure to be experienced, and as my feet tread lightly upon the Earth Mother, I am comforted with the strength that she imparts to me. I acknowledge to Spirit that I shall put my best foot forward and walk with integrity upon this planet.

And the Journey to Lightweight Continues

We started this odyssey with Backpacking Light carrying 20 and 14 pound baseweight packs. We have made considerable progress towards our goals of 14 (Jean) and sub-10 pound (Sue) baseweights. A lot of our work – and it is work – lightening our packs was mind work. But we had to get out there and experience our choices to really lock them in. In our next installment we’ll share our experiences – both good and bad – on the trail and in camp with our lightweight gear.

Valandré La Fayette Sleeping Bag REVIEW

A four season bag that offers excellent loft for the weight. The center zip has advantages, but is it the right solution for you?

Introduction

At just over 2 pounds 4 ounces, the Valandré La Fayette offers good loft for the weight. The water resistant Pertex Microlight shell is very breathable while offering resistance from condensation. The short center zip offers limited ventilation but is excellent for side sleepers because it keeps the zipper at ground level. While the collar/hood combination is one of the most efficient I’ve seen, the zipper, Velcro, cords, and cordlocks converge right at your mouth which is uncomfortable.

What’s Good

Very good loft for the weight
Water-resistant Pertex shell
High-loft 850+ fill power down
Center zip helps with insulation and is perfect for side sleepers
Highly efficient draft collar

What’s Not So Good

Velcro and two locking drawcords converge at your face and mouth, leading to discomfort
Short zipper limits ventilation options
Bag is easily affected by moisture

Specifications

Year/Model	2006 Valandré La Fayette
Style	Hooded, center-zip mummy bag
Fill	19.4 oz (550 g) 850+ fill goose down
Loft	Measured top loft 3.0 in (7.6 cm); total loft 6.0 in (15.2 cm); claimed loft n/a
Manufacturer Claimed Temperature Rating	5 °F (-15 °C) “extreme rating”
Weight	Measured weight 2 lb 4.2 oz (1025 g); manufacturer’s specification 2 lb 3.3 oz (1000 g)
Sizes	Medium user length (6 ft 0.5 in, 185 cm) tested; also available in short (5 ft 7 in, 170 cm) and long (6 ft 6 in, 200 cm)
Fabrics	Test Sample shell 30d Pertex P669RS Microlight – 1.4 oz/yd² (46 g/m²); lining 30d Pertex P666 – 1.3 oz/yd² (43 g/m²) Current shell Asahi KASEI Impact 66 Polyamid ripstop; lining Asahi KASEI Anti Static Impact 66 Polyester ripstop
Features	24 in (61 cm) center opening with zipper and vertical Velcro closure, shaped insulated neck collar with elastic drawcord, hood drawcord, internal elastic hip closure, 5 in (13 cm) baffles at the upper body tapering to 7 in (18 cm) baffles at the foot area, 2 hang loops, stuff sack, storage bag
MSRP	$480 – small, $499 – medium, $525 – large

Performance

Valandré La Fayette Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 1
New La Fayette bags are unchanged from the reviewed bag except for more water-resistant Asahi KASEI fabrics and a new, more subtle color.

The Valandré La Fayette is a mummy bag that weighs 32.6 ounces in a size medium. 19.4 ounces of this weight is 850+ fill goose down, which provides 3.0 inches of loft on top of the hiker and 6.0 inches of total loft. The baffles are open on the sides, making it possible to shift down from top to bottom. However, the baffles are full enough that accidental down-shifting never occurred.

The La Fayette (rated at 5 °F) fits into the Valandré bag lineup between the Mirage (rated to 23 °F) and the Shocking Blue (rated to -13 °F). Unlike the other two bags, the La Fayette uses a one-third length center zipper and while the other two bags have shaped footboxes, the La Fayette uses a traditional footbox instead.

The fit of the La Fayette is snug making it quite efficient while still allowing space to wear a high loft jacket in the bag (at least with my medium build). Valandré bags tend to be longer than competitor’s bags; at 6 foot 1 inch, I typically need a long bag, but the regular Valandré is a good fit.

The center zip of the La Fayette makes it perfect for side sleepers. When sleeping on your side in a side zip bag, you end up lying on the zipper or having the zipper directly above you. For side sleepers, a center zip puts the opening at ground level when you roll with the bag; this is both more comfortable and more efficient because it puts nothing but down directly above your body.

Valandré La Fayette Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 2
The large Velcro patches bring together baffles for a warm seal without the need for draft tubes.

Center zip bags are rare. I think this is because the opening tends to be more problematic to design than side zips. With a side zip, gravity assists flaps and draft tubes in covering the zipper. With center zips, dual draft tubes are sometimes used to solve the problem, but with significant weight increases. The La Fayette uses a unique system to solve this problem. First, the one-third zip means there’s simply less zipper to deal with. Next, full baffle height is maintained below the zipper with vertical Velcro strips that bring the baffles together. The zipper is sewn into the outside of this three-dimensional closure and completely seals the system. The result is a zipper area that blocks drafts and loses a minimum of heat. I never felt a cold spot in the zipper area.

Closing this seal completely when first getting into the bag is a bit of a hassle though – it requires some work to get a complete seal with the Velcro to eliminate drafts. Likewise, getting out of the bag requires zipping and undoing Velcro in unison to open the bag quickly. A better method is to get your arms outside of the bag, unzip from the outside, and quickly open the Velcro strip.

Valandré La Fayette Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 3
A Velcro strip, zipper, two locking cordlocks, and four elastic cords converge right at your mouth and chin, leading to discomfort.

Another Velcro patch at the collar creates a similar “continuous baffle” to the main zipper. Locking cordlocks for the collar and hood eliminate the need for snap closures to close the hood and hood areas. While they snap together easily, the stiff buttons make them more difficult to open, especially in darkness or with cold hands.

My biggest peeve with the La Fayette bag is having too many items converge right at my mouth and the middle of my face. These include two cordlocks, four cords, a zipper, and two Velcro patches. The Velcro scratched my face and the cord and cordlocks were constantly in my mouth or rubbing my chin. To be sure it wasn’t just my issue, I had three other hikers use the bag and all were in agreement that the center of the hood area was far too busy to be comfortable.

Valandré La Fayette Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 4
The “Marie Antoinette” collar is very effective at eliminating drafts.

Even with the annoyances of the closure hardware, the hood area and collar are among the most efficient I’ve seen. A key component of the La Fayette is its “Marie Antoinette” collar that wraps the neck is a continuous baffle that seals completely, following the neckline “as close as the headpiece of a guillotine” (hence the name).

The contoured hood and dual adjusters create an effective seal around the face and a nice pillow of down that surrounds the head. Combined with the center zip, this is one warm head area no matter what position you prefer to lay in. A second drawcord at the hip further eliminates drafts in the bag. If you’re cold in a Valandré La Fayette, it should not be due to drafts.

On the flip side, the La Fayette offers few options for ventilation. With a short zip and a snug fit that discourage airflow, I found myself sleeping on top of the Valandré bag in warmer conditions.

Valandré La Fayette Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 5
The La Fayette seals up to create a very warm hood and shoulder area.

The Valandré La Fayette reviewed uses a Pertex Microlight shell and liner (a ripstop version is used on the outer shell). This fabric is very lightweight and highly breathable. However, it offers only minimal water resistance. During some extremely wet trips in the Cascades with vertical rain and high condensation, the fabric soaked through, causing significant loss of loft.

For 2006, Valandré switched to Asahi KASEI Impact 66 Polyamid ripstop nylon. While still being highly breathable, this fabric is much more water resistant than Pertex Microlight and should address many of my concerns about the bag losing loft in wet conditions.

Valandré La Fayette Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 6
The Pertex Microlight fabric breathes well but is less effective at repelling moisture such as during this super-wet trip up Mount Hood in Oregon.

Like other Valandré products I’ve used, the La Fayette bag is a very high quality product. Pertex fabrics, 850 + down, and meticulous craftsmanship are seen in the bag, putting it in the company of other top-tier sleeping bag companies. After many nights in the bag, it still looks great and has loft similar to when it was new. The only exception was a small mis-sewing at the base of the zipper between reinforcement and the main juncture. This split caused a few feathers to leak out but was easily fixed by a couple of quick stitches.

Valandré La Fayette Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 7
A small seam tear was the only durability issue I had with the Valandré bag.

At $499, the Valandré La Fayette is quite expensive. If an efficient four-season bag with center zip is what you’re looking for, there isn’t much competition for this bag (GoLite, Feathered Friends, and Nunatak offer center zip models but they aren’t this warmly rated). It also offers the most efficient, well designed hood/collar combination I’ve seen. However, when you consider that the Western Mountaineering Versalite Super offers similar loft, is several ounces lighter, and costs over $100 less, it’s tough to recommend the La Fayette as a great value.

What’s Unique

Center zip bags are rare and the Valandré La Fayette is an excellent example of an efficient center zip bag. For side or stomach sleepers, the short center zip offers a superior alternative to the challenges of side-zip bags. The La Fayette is not just limited to the “sleeping impaired” though – back sleepers will enjoy this bag too!

Recommendations for Improvement

The Valandré La Fayette is quite expensive when compared to competitor’s bags. I’d like to see a price break to make the price more comparable with other high-end bags on the market.
The combination of zipper, Velcro, adjusters, and cords in the mouth area is very uncomfortable. Moving the adjusters and cords to the side is a possibility (this is how Feathered Friends solved the problem in a custom center zip bag I own), but it would require the use of snaps and possibly a flap to secure the hood and collar. Another solution would be to take the approach of in the Arc’Teryx Sidewinder jacket line which has a center zip that angles to the side as it approaches the face. This would eliminate the issues I’ve stated without losing the versatility of the center zip.

Tarptent Rainshadow 2 Tent REVIEW

Ultralight (just over 2 1/2 pounds) single wall tent with a bathtub floor and plenty of space for three adults – or maybe the whole family.

Introduction

The Tarptent Rainshadow 2 is the bigger brother to the Squall 2 which won the 2005 Backpacking Light Lightitude award for Best Single Wall Shelter. This three-person Tarptent shares all of the features of the Squall 2 and offers excellent living space for three adult hikers for just over 2 ½ pounds. The floored version (tested) features a floating bathtub floor that keeps the sleeping area dry while taking tension off the fabric. The doorway can be set up with single or dual poles, the dual pole pitch giving better entrance access and wind stability. How does this XL-sized Tarptent stand up to rough weather conditions?

What’s Good

At 2 pounds 9.8 ounces, it’s very light for a three-person floored shelter with full rain and bug protection
Realistic space for three full-size adults (unlike some three-person tents!)
Front strut increases headroom and usable space
Floating bathtub floor protects from splashing rain and is more durable than tensioned floors because of added puncture resistance
Dual trekking pole setup opens entryway and increases wind stability
Beak-style vestibule offers good protection while still allowing airflow
Door and beak are easily rolled up for full ventilation and views
New guyline adjusters are simple, lightweight, and easy to use

What’s Not So Good

Less wind stability when set up with a single pole
Front vent is not very functional
Condensation issues in still, high humidity conditions

Specifications

Year/Manufacturer/Model	2006 Tarptent Rainshadow 2
Style	Three person single wall tent with sewn-in floor (a floorless version is available)
Fabrics	1.3 oz/yd² (44 g/m²) silicone impregnated ripstop nylon, 1 oz/yd² (34 g/m²) no-see-um netting
Poles and Stakes	Easton 7075 aluminum, 5/16 inch (8 mm) diameter rear pole, four Easton 5.5 in (14 cm) 7075 aluminum tubular stakes
Dimensions	Outside length 94 in (239 cm), width 92/75 in (234/191 cm), height 48 in (122 cm) height variable with adjustable trekking pole Inside bathtub floor length 82 in (208 cm), width 77/64 in (196/163 cm)
Packed Size	20 in x 4 in x 4 in (51 x 10 x 10 cm)
Total Weight As supplied by manufacturer with all included items	Measured weight 2 lb 11.5 oz (1.23 kg); shelter 2 lb 3.3 oz (1.00 kg), Easton aluminum rear pole 4.5 oz (128 g), Easton aluminum front strut 0.5 oz (15 g), 4 Easton aluminum stakes 1.4 oz (40 g), stuff sacks 0.6 oz (18 g) Manufacturer specification 2 lb 11.0 oz (1.22 kg)
Trail Weight Includes minimum number of items needed to erect the tent	2 lb 9.8 oz (1.19 kg) measured weight (assumes using trekking pole(s) for front support)
Protected Area	Total covered area 54.5 ft² (5.06 m²), sewn-in floor 39.7 ft² (3.69 m²), vestibule 8.7 ft² (0.81 m²)
Floor Area/Trail Weight Ratio	15.2 ft²/lb based on 39.7 ft² floor area and weight of 2.61lb
Protected Area/Trail Weight Ratio	18.5 ft²/lb based on 48.4 ft² floor + vestibule area and weight of 2.61 lb
MSRP	$255 with sewn-in floor, $215 without floor
Options	Front poles are $5 for one or $10 for two, each weighs 2.5 oz (73 g); Tyvek groundsheet $12, 10 oz (283 g, usually used in floorless version)

Performance

Tarptent Rainshadow 2 Tent REVIEW - 1
The Rainshadow 2 is identical in design to the Squall 2, but wider, taller and heavier to accommodate thee people.

The Tarptents have been a favorite among ultralight backpackers for years. The Tarptent Squall 2 won the Backpacking Light Lightitude Award for Best Single Wall Shelter in 2005, and for good reason. It has several important updates that increase its comfort and usability while maintaining much of the simplicity and aesthetics of the original Squall. The Tarptent Rainshadow 2 is the bigger brother to the Squall 2.

The Tarptent Rainshadow 2 is a single wall tent that is constructed of silicone-impregnated ripstop nylon. It uses a single hooped pole in the rear, a short horizontal strut pole at the front, and the option of one or two poles or trekking poles for front support. The tent features dual catenary ridgelines and sets up with four stakes (with the option of using two more with side guyouts). It provides full perimeter bug netting for complete bug protection and a front door that opens in an inverted “T” and stows away with Velcro tabs.

Included with the shelter are the tent body with attached floor, silnylon tent stuff sack, rear hoop pole and front strut (both Easton 7075 aluminum), four stakes, and a silnylon stake pouch. Single or dual front poles are available for those that don’t use trekking poles.

Tarptent Rainshadow 2 Tent REVIEW - 2
New guyline adjusters are found on all front guyline attachments and make tensioning a breeze.

With some practice, setting up the Rainshadow 2 is possible in just a few minutes. The rear pole easily slides into a rear sleeve and is held in place by a grommet on each side. After staking the rear, the front pole is inserted into a grommet and erected with a single guyline. Corner guylines are staked and tensioned. Finally the rear hoop is repositioned to even out the sidewall tension by moving it back slightly. Unlike earlier Tarptents which required restaking for tension adjustments, all Tarptents now have guyline adjusters at the front guyline attachments that make proper tensioning (and nighttime adjustments) very easy.

REVIEW - 1
The Rainshadow 2 has ample room for 3 large adults

At just over 2 ½ pounds, the Rainshadow 2 provides comfortable living space for three large adults. The flat top and dual ridgelines caused by the front strut increase headroom dramatically and the more vertical sidewalls add to the usable space. While it’s pushing it to say that three adults can sit up comfortably, it is roomy enough for two to sit up side by side. With the floating floor design it is easy to increase the front height of the tent using extendable trekking poles, further increasing headroom and usable space.

Some “three-person tents” would be more accurately titled “two-and-a-half person tents,” but that is not the case for the Tarptent Rainshadow 2. With a total covered area of 54.5 square feet and a floor area of 39.7 square feet, the Rainshadow 2 proved to be a comfortable living space for three when I shared the tent with two other full-size guys during an extended mountain bike tour.

Two inside pockets provide storage for small items and in clear conditions, the mesh area alongside the tent outside of the bathtub floor provides tons of extra storage.

REVIEW - 2
Dual trekking poles can be used to increase tent height and make the entryway larger (left) or to lower the front and stabilize the tent in windy conditions (right).

The dual ridgelines make a difference in wind stability when compared to the original Tarptent Rainshadow. When using only one pole for front support, the strut allows more side to side sway during moderate winds. Due to the larger tent body, this is more of an issue with the Rainshadow 2 than the Squall 2. Using two poles in the front increases wind stability dramatically. I definitely prefer two poles, especially when camping above the tree line. While this is not a shelter for high winds, the Rainshadow can definitely handle moderate winds by using two front poles, staking it lower to the ground, and using the side guyout points.

REVIEW - 3
Using a single pole puts extra stress on the fabric at the top of the vestibule.

REVIEW - 4
When using dual front poles, everything closes neatly and no stress is placed on the fabric.

Using a single pole also places pressure on the top point of the vestibule fabric. This is unavoidable when using a single pole or trekking pole and induces extra wear on that point, resulting in some fabric stretching and, over time, may cause durability issues. A redesign or extra reinforcement is needed in this area for use with a single pole. This issue is easily eliminated by using dual poles for front support.

REVIEW - 5
The floating floor design adds no tension to the outer tent, instead relying on sewn seams and attached elastic cord to give its bathtub shape.

Like the Squall 2, the floating bathtub floor of the Rainshadow 2 is a huge improvement over previous Tarptent floor designs. The floor is attached at the corners with elastic cords that give the protection of a bathtub floor while adding no tension to the main tent body. The result is a floor that stays drier in splashing rain and stays cleaner in dusty conditions than in previous models. The design has adjustable tension, works perfectly, and is brilliant in its simplicity.

For those that prefer floorless shelters, a floorless model is still available that has bug netting that tucks underneath a groundsheet and saves 8 ounces. However, those that live in rainy environments should seriously consider the floored model because it addresses a major problem with earlier Squalls and floorless models – splashing rain.

REVIEW - 6
The backward-leaning rear hoop provides more than enough overlap to keep all three hikers’ feet dry.

In rainy conditions, the Rainshadow 2 provides full protection for all three hikers, even during total downpours. In these conditions, though, the small 8.7 square foot beak-style vestibule gets a bit small for storing three sets of gear and some items will have to be pulled inside. The vestibule is easily pitched by releasing Velcro tabs on the sides, attaching them together with Velcro at the center, and affixing the bungee loop to the adjustable guyline clip. Getting the center Velcro lined up properly is somewhat challenging, especially from inside the shelter.

REVIEW - 7
The Vestibule attaches to the guyline with a bungee loop and an adjustable plastic clip – very simple.

Ventilation in the Rainshadow 2 is very good for a single wall tent. In conditions with even a slight breeze, the full perimeter mesh and mesh front door provide good airflow that keeps things dry. When bugs are not a problem, leaving the mesh doors open eliminates any possibility of condensation. In still, high-humidity conditions, condensation becomes more of an issue, especially with three heavy breathers. However, moisture is easily managed; condensation that accumulates on the tent walls runs down and drips outside of the floor area (another bonus for the bathtub floor design). When condensation occurs and three people are sharing the tent, it is harder to not bump against the wet walls.

Durability of the Tarptent Rainshadow 2 was never an issue during field testing but extra care is needed when using silnylon shelters. If you keep fire away from the tent and make sure not to pitch it on rough surfaces such as sharp stubs or rock, a Tarptent will give years of reliable performance in the field. As previously mentioned, my only concern came from fabric stress resulting from using a single pole for front support.

I’m not big on the tube-shaped stuffsacks that come with Tarptents. I find the tube-shape is difficult to stuff. Removal of the front strut is critical when stuffing the tent but a better approach is to roll the tent.

While the Tarptent Rainshadow 2 is a brilliant three-person, three-season single wall shelter, it has a few imperfections. The beak found in earlier Tarptents was one piece that attached permanently at one side and attached to the other with a Velcro strip. The beak of the Rainshadow 2, though, splits down the middle and secures in the center with a long strip of Velcro. While this gives the additional flexibility of leaving just one-half of the vestibule closed, it is also more difficult to neatly close because the Velcro strips have to be aligned under tension. This was not a big deal but was a little annoying at times.

REVIEW - 8
Lacking a wire-stiffened brim, the vent is only fully usable when conditions are dry but does offer additional ventilation options.

Like the Squall 2, another aspect of the vestibule design is the addition of a front vent. While the front corner of the tent can now be left open to aid in ventilation, the lack of a stiffened brim or flap means that the vent also allows rain to enter the vestibule area. I would consider the front vent more of a work in progress than a functional vent.

What’s Unique

The refinements in the Tarptent Rainshadow 2 make it a nearly perfect ultralight three-person, three-season single wall shelter. The dual pole/dual ridgeline, floating bathtub floor, adjustable front guylines, and extended beak are excellent features that add to the usability of the tent. Like the Squall 2, the Rainshadow 2 is a marvelous design.

Recommendations for Improvement

I would like to see a design change with the vestibule and front vent. A wire-stiffened brim or a vent support would make the vent fully functional in all conditions. If the option of a single pole for front support is available, there should also be changes made in the vestibule so the pole doesn’t place extra stress on the fabric.

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