The Tarptent Squall 2 is an update of the popular Squall single wall tent. It offers full weather and bug protection in a lightweight 2 pound package. It features a floating bathtub floor that keeps the sleeping area dry while taking tension off the fabric, increasing floor durability and waterproofing. The doorway can be set up with single or dual poles, the dual pole pitch giving better entrance access and wind stability. The Squall 2 can be set up with only four stakes in just a few minutes and has simple adjusters for easy tensioning. However, it is more complex than the original and not all the design changes are perfect. How does the Squall 2 stand up to the original design?
ARTICLE OUTLINE
- Introduction
- Specifications: Year/Model, Style , Fabrics, Pole Material, Weight Full Package, Weight Manufacturer Minimum , Weight BPL Minimum, Area, Area to BPL Minimum Weight Ratio, Dimensions, MSRP, Options
- What's Good
- What's Not So Good
- Performance
- What's Unique
- Recommendations for Improvement
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# PHOTOS: 8
# TABLES: 1
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Discussion
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Tarptent Squall 2 Tent REVIEW
An interesting review which corresponds a lot with some of my experiences: tensioning of the beak, front vent as a work in progress, … But definitely a very fine shelter.
2 question though:
1) it appears I’ve got an earlier version of the squall é withut the guyline adjusters. Can these be refitted afterwards by myself?
2) I’ve got the impression that the bathtub floor is not sewn in but that it uses some elastic cord instead to attach it. I currently have a floorless modell and use a footprint from my 4-season tent which matches perfectly but it’s pretty heavy. Is this bathtub floor seperatly available?
How is it possible that the review completely omitted the issue of pitching the Squall 2 with the tail into the wind?
I’ve used one all summer in Rockies, Olympics, Sierras, Utah, with great results. To be clear, I’m a big fan, and intend to keep using it as my summer shelter for seasons to come.
But the wind issue is a big one. In windy conditions, you must pitch the tail into the wind if you want any kind of stability. This presents two problems:
1) If the wind changes direction, you’re screwed. In the Wind River range, the wind did a 180 reverse at sundown, necesitating repitching the tent in the rain. It was nice that it wasn’t dark and I wasn’t in bed already. And, the beauty of the tarptent is that re pitching is quick. But it’s an issue.
2) the other issue is that the optimal alignment for sleeping comfort (flat, or head slightly uphill if necessary) isn’t always in aligment w/ wind direction. So you often find yourself w/ your head at the low hooped end, or rolling sideways down the tent. Not a disaster, but an important factor to consider.
How have other users dealt with this?
Last comment on the stuff sack issue: I found rolling let me stuff easily. But as the summer wore on, I just skipped stuffing it and threw it in my pack w/ fine results.
Hi John,
These are good comments. You are correct that pitching the rear into the wind is important during windy conditions. However, I find that pitching it low and wide with the side guyouts used and dual trekking poles is the best approach, regardless of tent orientation. When the front is dropped as low as it can with the floor at full tension, the tent does a good job of handling wind from any angle. Pitched at standard height, though, it is definitely better to have the rear into the wind.
It’s important to note also that this is no bomber tent. While it handles wind much better than the original Squall, it still isn’t designed for extreme conditions.
Thanks for the feedback!
Doug Johnson
Doug, thanks for the quick reply. When you say pitch the front low, did you pitch it lower than the height of the optional poles (what I’ve been using rather than treking poles)? One could do that by digging the poles in a bit, or angling them in… Also, did you stake the sides almost to the ground?
Hi John,
Yes- when using fixed length trekking poles or the optional TT poles, I do this by angling the poles to the sides and have also dug out holes in extreme conditions. With collapsible poles it’s obviously much easier. From memory, I believe that the corners were almost to ground level but not quite due to limitations caused by the floor. I’d have to play with it again to respond more accurately.
When pitched this low, condensation becomes much more of an issue; I’ve only done this when conditions were abnormally windy.
Have a good one!
Doug
I have also found that if you pitch the squall2 low and wide that it can handle wind, even when it’s not coming from the tail. I have been just fine so far with winds clocked at 37 mph (45mph in the original squall a few years ago). With winds like just a little gap provided ample “ventilation” to keep condensation down.
–mark
Doug
Thanks for the informative review.
I would also be interested in your thoughts concerning the Gossamer Gear/Tarptent Squall Classic.
Regards
GREAT QUESTION!
Look for the review of the Gossamer Gear / Tarptent Squall Classic coming out later this month! I also tested it with Fibraplex carbon fiber poles. Cool stuff!
Doug
Howdy, I am in agreement with the issue regarding the front strut. The Rainshadow 2 has the same issue.
Observation: if you roll up the Squall 2in a certain fashion, having the front strut makes it EASIER to achieve the right shape to fit into the stuff-sack tube.
However, that same feature makes it difficult to roll or fold the tent into any other shape. Did not want to attempt to remove the strut, for fear of damaging the Rainshadow 2.
Perhaps Henry Shires could make an easily removable front strut a feature for the Squall 2.1, Rainshadow 2.1, et al?
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