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Make Your Own Gear: Carbon Fiber Trekking Poles
Complete instructions for making your own SUL carbon trekking poles from fishing, golf, and kite parts.
Complete instructions for making your own SUL carbon trekking poles from fishing, golf, and kite parts.
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Lightweight eVENT multi-sport jacket with a terrific fit and feature set, but its appeal depends on whether you need a helmet-compatible hood or not.
Rab is a British company that has been making cutting edge outdoor gear for 25 years. Up until now, customers have had to pay international shipping costs to get Rab products. Starting in 2007, their products will be available in the United States through several franchised retailers. It will be nice to add Rab products to our range of choices for outdoor gear.
At 12.7 ounces (size L), the Rab Drillium is a short-cut multi-sport jacket in a lightweight version of 3-layer eVENT fabric. The Drillium has a nice feature set and all the advantages of eVENT fabric in the same weight range as a conventional polyurethane-laminate jacket, but costs a little more. Does the performance justify the additional cost?
|
  Model Year |
2007 Rab Drillium eVENT Jacket |
|
  Style |
Full zip, hooded multi-purpose shell jacket |
|
  Weight |
12.7 oz (360 g) measured weight, manufacturer’s specification 12.35 oz (350 g) size L |
|
  Shell Fabric |
Main shell is 3-layer eVENT, consisting of a 15-denier nylon ripstop face fabric with DWR, the eVENT ePTFE membrane, and inside scrim layer to protect the membrane, 2.5 oz/yd2 (85 g/m2); fully seam taped |
|
  Features |
Narrow seam tape, elastic drawcord hem with 2 adjustors, stow-away wire brim hood with dual elastic drawcord front adjustment and single drawcord rear adjustment, two high mounted zippered side pockets with water-resistant zippers, full height front water-resistant zipper with internal storm flap, adjustable cuffs with Velcro tabs, dropped tail, fleece chin guard |
|
  MSRP |
US$275 |
You might cringe at the price when you purchase an eVENT jacket ($275 in this case), but once you get past the cost, it’s all smiles. The Rab Drillium jacket is now an option for US consumers, so in writing this review I not only evaluate the Drillium’s features and performance, but also compare it to other eVENT jackets on the market.

Front and rear views of the Rab Drillium eVENT jacket. The hood is stowed in the collar in these photos.
The Drillium is Rab’s lightest eVENT jacket. Rab calls it a “multi-sport jacket”, and I agree with their label. It is much more than a rain jacket. I wore it constantly as an outer shell in all kinds of winter activities and weather.
The Drillium is made of Rab’s “lightweight eVENT three-layer fabric” (2.5 oz/yd2), while their other eVENT jackets are made of “midweight eVENT three-layer fabric” (4.3 oz/yd2) and are intended for mountaineering. The eVENT fabric used for the Drillium is lightweight, but it could be lighter. The face fabric is 15 denier nylon (which is light), but it has a 40 denier ripstop running through it, which makes the fabric stiffer as well.
As a multi-sport jacket, the Drillium has a carefully selected feature set (detailed in the following photos) that many would consider essential.

The Rab Drillium jacket has an essential feature set. Inside (top left) there is one stretch mesh zippered pocket. Outside (top right) it has two large zippered side pockets set high above a backpack hipbelt. The outside pocket zippers plus the full-height front zipper are water-resistant. The tail (bottom left) is dropped a full 4 inches. The sleeves (bottom right) are extra long and have a Velcro closure with rubber pull tabs.
The Drillium’s helmet-compatible hood is a great feature for backcountry skiing, ice climbing, and lightweight mountaineering. However, backpackers may see the larger hood, its stow-away feature, and its complex adjustments as overkill. The value of the helmet-compatible hood ultimately depends on the user’s need for that feature.

The Drillium’s helmet-compatible hood is fantastic if you participate in helmet sports, but the hood is overkill for most backpackers. It has two elastic cord adjusters on the front and one on the back (top and bottom left). Its wire brim provides adequate protection by itself for eyeglasses (top right), or lies over a billed hat (top left). When not needed, the hood can be folded up and stowed in the jacket’s collar (bottom right).
I wore the Rab Drillium jacket while mountain snowshoeing, snow hiking, cross-country skiing, and snow camping, and also for winter camping and hiking in the southern Utah canyon country. During the test period it got a good workout shedding snow, rain, and wind and also served as an outer shell layer over insulated clothing in camp.
On me (6 feet, 170 pounds), the Drillium in size Large has a trim fit but still has enough room to layer over a medium weight insulated jacket. It fits tight over a puffy down jacket. The raglan-style sleeves are extra long, so I could easily retract my hands into the sleeves for extra warmth. The tail is dropped 4 inches to provide good coverage over the butt. Articulation is very good; when I raise my arms the sleeves pull back to my wrists, and when I cross my arms I do not feel any binding in the shoulders.
The front water-resistant zipper is a little stiff, but operates smoothly without catching. The side pockets are high and angled and have an 8-inch water-resistant zipper. They are deep and roomy (almost 12 inches high on the inside) and I found them very handy for stowing bulky gloves when I took them off, or for stowing a variety of items to keep them handy. I loved the high location of the side pockets, where a backpack hipbelt does not interfere with them. I also found the inside zippered mesh pocket very handy for stowing valuables or drying out gloves.

The side pocket zippers are stiff and tend to catch on the internal storm flap.
The Drillium’s hood is helmet-compatible and has a wire brim and three drawcord adjustors. For someone who will wear the jacket with a helmet, it is well-designed and very useful. For me, the oversize hood with three adjustments and stow-away collar are overkill and extra weight. I am not a fan of a wire-stiffened brim on a storm shell, and find it an annoyance to straighten out the wire brim every time I pulled the jacket out of a pack. Once the drawcord adjustors on the hood are set, they can be kept that way, so the hood doesn’t have to be adjusted every time. One advantage of a helmet-compatible hood (when not wearing a helmet) is that you can lift the hood on and off with the front zipper fully zipped. When the hood is not needed or desired, the jacket has a Velcro-secured pocket in the collar for stowing it. Tip: when packing the jacket, it helps to fold the hood into the stow-away collar to avoid bending the wire brim out of shape.
The Drillium is unquestionably waterproof, wind-resistant, and highly breathable. I wore the jacket on snowy days and rainy days and stayed completely dry. In a cold wind, I found the jacket most comfortable with a baselayer and thin fleece top under it while hiking.
When you carry an eVENT jacket, you may not need to carry a windshirt. The Drillium Jacket works better in the wind than many windshirts on the market. The eVENT jacket breathed extremely well and allowed me to stay cool and comfortable while hiking. In variable weather conditions, I found I could leave the Drillium eVENT jacket on much longer than other jackets due to its broader comfort range. However, it’s not a silver bullet – when I hike uphill carrying a pack, especially in the sun, I eventually start to sweat too much, and the jacket has to come off. The front zipper helps to regulate temperature somewhat, but no jacket can help you ventilate your back when you are wearing a backpack.
I didnt’ like the jacket’s rubber tab and Velcro cuff adjustors. Although an effort was made to minimize the problem, the Velcro still catches on other fabrics when stuffing a sleeping bag or packing a backpack. I avoided the problem (and fabric damage) by turning the cuffs over when stuffing other gear.
It should be noted that eVENT requires similar maintenance to Gore-Tex, which means it needs to be kept clean for the ePTFE membrane to function properly, and the surface DWR coating must be restored occasionally so the jacket repels water.
I really like the Drillium’s fit, especially its long sleeves and dropped tail. The body has ample room for layering over a thin or medium thickness insulation layer, but is tight over thick insulation unless you oversize accordingly.
If you will be wearing a helmet when using the Drillium jacket, the helmet-compatible hood is a necessary feature. If not, the oversize hood is unnecessary excess and bother. Since I do not participate in any helmet sports, I prefer the simple hood design of the Integral Designs eVENT rain Jacket and wear it over a billed cap to keep my glasses dry. However, the body length is too short, and it also doesn’t have the high side pockets of the Drillium. But it weighs 2.7 ounces less and costs $55 less than the Drillium.
The body length of the Integral Designs eVENT Thru Hiker Jacket is 3 inches longer than the eVENT Rain Jacket, the hood is compatible with a low profile helmet, and it costs $15 less than the Drillium. However, for the same weight, the Drillium has two large side pockets while the Thru Hiker Jacket has one large Napoleon style pocket.
The Drillium has a similar feature set and weight as the Montane Quick-Fire Jacket, and costs about $70 less.
It would be nice if Rab would offer a version of the Drillium with a simple hood for backpackers and leaving the remainder of the jacket alone. The weight savings from simplifying the hood and dropping the stow-away feature, in combination with the jacket’s longer body length and high pockets would make it nearly perfect.
Overall, I found the Rab Drillium Jacket to be one of the most versatile jackets I have used. It’s much more than a rain jacket. It also doubles as a windshirt and an outer shell layer over an insulating jacket in camp.
The Drillium Jacket is exceptionally well designed and constructed to take full advantage of its eVENT fabric. Every feature is carefully selected and designed.
The Mega Light is a solid, well designed pyramid tent, but the weight-conscious should leave the bug liner behind.
The Black Diamond Mega Light Pyramid tent is a floorless, single pole, non-freestanding shelter. Providing enough room for four adults at a weight of 7.35 ounces per person (including stakes and trekking pole connector), the Mega Light is lighter per person than most silnylon tarps, and offers better weather protection thanks to fully protected sides. I tested the Mega Light with and without the separate Black Diamond Mega Bug liner while backpacking with my two daughters in 2006 and 2007. Rather than review these two items as a single shelter, the bulk of the article focuses on the Mega Light. Most lightweight backpackers will prefer this shelter by itself, so the overweight Mega Bug inner tent is discussed separately at the end of this review.
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Year/Manufacturer/Model |
2006 Black Diamond Mega Light and Mega Bug |
|
Style |
Four-person pyramid tent |
|
Fabrics |
1.3 oz/yd2 (44 g/m2) silnylon, 1.0 oz/yd2 (34 g/m2) no-see-um mesh |
|
Poles and Stakes |
One 18 mm (OD) carbon fiber shock-corded center pole; 65 to 75 inches long |
|
Dimensions |
Measured outside width 104 inches (264 cm) square, 66 inches (168 cm) high at apex; tapered edges and peak reduces the usable width and height |
|
Packed Size |
9 in x 5 in x 5 in (23 x 13 x 13 cm) |
|
Total Weight |
Measured weight 2 lb 9.7 oz (1.18 kg), manufacturer specification 2 lb 13 oz (1.27 kg) |
|
Trail Weight |
Measured weight 1 lb 13.4 oz (0.83 kg), includes tent body, trekking pole connector, and 8 stakes |
|
Protected Area |
Total covered area 72.3 ft2 (6.7 m2) |
|
Floor Area/Trail Weight Ratio |
39.5 ft2/lb based on 72.3 ft2 floor area and weight of 1.83 lb |
|
MSRP |
$234.95 |
|
Options |
Mega Bug bug liner with floor ($224.95, 3 lb 6 oz (1.53 kg) |
Pyramid tents have always been a favorite of mine for backpacking with my family because of their enormous space to weight ratio. I have used pyramids from Dana Design and GoLite, and finally made one out of 1.1 ounce silnylon. The Black Diamond Mega Light is an excellent, lightweight pyramid option, weighing 1 pound 13.4 ounces (with trekking pole adapter and 8 stakes).

The Black Diamond Mega Light has a square footprint and sleeps 4 adults. The door can be opened wide and tied back for expansive views and to let in the breeze.
The Black Diamond Mega Light is fairly quick and easy to set up. Step one, stake the four corners (with the door shut), keeping the shelter as square as possible. Step two, insert the single center pole inside and adjust the pole’s height until the pitch is taut. Step three, stake the four side midpoints tightly, and readjust the center pole if necessary.
This shelter requires a relatively large footprint. I have had to pitch it with a small bush or large rock on the inside because the campsite was too small, a work-around that won’t work with four adult occupants. Also, pyramids require stakes for support, and rocky or shallow ground can sometimes compromise the pitch. It can be necessary to tie onto large rocks or the base of a nearby tree to augment poor staking conditions.
Getting the shape square is more important than you might think. Shy of square, the shelter looses significant headroom along the closer corners. More often than not, you will need to adjust a few of the stakes after setup to square the pitch. Other pyramids I have used have adjustable ladder locks on every tie out for this purpose. The Mega Light lacks this feature, presumably to save weight, and setup is a bit more involved as a result, especially in rocky or shallow soils.

The eight tie outs are finished with a short piece of flat cording. In other pyramids I have used, the tie outs were individually adjustable and setup was easier as a result. With the non-adjustable extension cord, the stakes must be repositioned to adjust individual stake tensions.
The Mega Light’s 1.3 ounce silnylon stretches some during the night. Because the adjustable center pole is on the inside, it’s an easy stay-in-your-sleeping-bag maneuver to tauten the pitch by slightly raising the pole.
The “center pole” can be any number of long items, including the supplied carbon pole, two connected trekking poles, a long stick found in the woods, or a kayak paddle. You can also suspend the Mega Light by running a cord from the webbing loop in the apex to a horizontal tree branch overhead (the location on the branch where the cording attaches must be directly over the apex to attain a taut pitch).
Black Diamond includes an 18 millimeter diameter, four-section carbon fiber pole with the Mega Light. Their carbon pole is super stiff (the same diameter as a Leki trekking pole top section) for only an 11 ounce penalty.

The Mega Light comes with an 11-ounce, four section carbon fiber pole (left). The top section telescopes to adjust the shelter’s height. The section locks as the large flat washer wedges against the beveled aluminum (right).
If you are accustomed to carrying trekking poles, you can leave the supplied carbon pole at home. Black Diamond includes a fabric and webbing trekking pole adapter (1.0 ounces) to join two trekking poles together into one long pole. The adapter has two “bags” on either end of a webbing strap. Your trekking pole grips fit into these “bags” such that they overlap each other and are secured together with integrated Velcro straps.

Black Diamond’s trekking pole adapter for the Mega Light is a lightweight option for connecting two trekking poles together into a suitable center pole.
You can take the supplied carbon pole apart combine them with your two adjustable trekking poles to create an excellent center pole. Black Diamond manufactured their carbon center pole using standard trekking pole tubing sizes. With a 16mm inside diameter, the carbon sections will fit over the middle section of most aluminum trekking poles. By removing the handle section of two trekking poles, the lower pole sections are inserted into the carbon piece (1.8 ounces) such that the carbide tips are pointing away from each other. Adjustability is handled by the trekking poles adjustable lower section.
If you have carbon poles, you might be able to construct a similar arrangement with the aluminum adjustable section from the supplied carbon pole (I shortened this section by 8 inches, saving 0.8 ounces). I own MSR Overland Carbon trekking poles that fit into this piece perfectly. Linking your trekking poles in this manner is stiffer than using the supplied fabric trekking pole adapter, but not as stiff as using the dedicated carbon center pole.

The supplied carbon center pole can be disassembled into several pieces useful in combination with a pair of telescoping trekking poles. In the left picture, the aluminum top piece from the supplied carbon pole works in conjunction with my MSR Overland Carbon pole lower sections (top) and one of the carbon sections works with my Komperdell Compact Ultralights (bottom). The photo on the right shows my cut down aluminum piece connecting the lowers of my MSR Overland Carbon poles.
Black Diamond constructed the Mega Light out of 1.3 ounce/square yard silicone impregnated nylon. The eight grosgrain tie outs points are reinforced with a double layer of silnylon along the tent body’s edge. The inside top of the apex is reinforced with nylon webbing and nylon packcloth. This prevents the center pole from shredding the lightweight silnylon. For ventilation, there is a single no-see-um backed mesh vent at the top of the main zipper (more on ventilation and bug protection to follow). The seams must be sealed for the shelter to be waterproof; allow several hours for this task as there are a lot of seams on this shelter. The main front zipper is a YKK #5 double tab coil. The zipper is protected by a full-length storm flap. At the very bottom of the front opening, a side release buckle secures the storm flap and prevents the zipper from self-opening in high winds.

The inside top has two webbing straps arranged in an X shape with a grommet placed in the center. When using trekking poles, the top pole’s tip fits into this grommet placing all the tension on the nylon webbing and thus preventing damage to the lightweight fabrics.

Black Diamond seals the main opening with a double rain flap. The outer flap wraps up and around the top vent (top). The inside flap has a rain gutter to redirect water from the #5 YKK zipper (middle). The bottom secures with a side release buckle to prevent high winds from penetrating the flap (bottom).
The Mega Light held up well under heavy use over the 10-month testing period. I have used other 1.3-ounce silnylon pyramids over 5 or 6 years without degradation in the fabric’s water resistance or integrity.
Set up properly, pyramid tents are very stable in high winds, and the Black Diamond is no exception. Wind stability is enhanced because the pyramid’s shape leaves very little surface area up high where wind can have the most leverage on a shelter. Pyramids also have a wide stance, and when staked properly, are very stable shelters. However, unlike free-standing shelters, pyramids rely heavily on stake placement for tautness and stability. When backpacking in sandy bottom canyons or rocky areas, I found it sometimes frustrating to achieve a solid anchor. It was necessary to dig down past the loose sandy surface or use rocks to anchor some of the corners in a few cases. Since the Mega Light has eight tie outs it remained stable even if one or two were poorly secured, though this could cause problems in very high winds.
The Mega Light has full perimeter ground-level ventilation and a top roof vent above the door. The top vent is held open by a thin wire sewn into the vent’s rim, and can be “shut” by folding the wire in towards the shelter. We never experienced any serious condensation problems using the Mega Light. Occasionally we would notice slight moisture on the inside of the shelter walls in the morning, but never enough to drip or otherwise wet our gear significantly.
The vent is backed with no-see-um mesh, allowing you to pitch the tent closer to the ground in buggy conditions by staking directly to the grosgrain tie outs rather than the nylon cord extensions. The tie outs will not allow the Mega Light to pitch flush against the ground. Some insects can find their way in. However, the mesh-backed top vent makes it easy to convert the Mega Light to full-bug protection. Following this review, I intend to sew a 15-inch high piece of no-see-um netting around the perimeter. This will be a simple and inexpensive modification that will not add excessive weight.

The top vent is backed with mesh, allowing you to pitch the Mega Light close to the ground in buggy conditions to better seal the lower edge.
For full bug protection, Black Diamond offers the Mega Bug to convert the Mega Light into a more typical double wall tent with floor and full bug lining. The Mega Bug was designed to work flawlessly with the Mega Light and Mega Mid shelters, and while it is a perfect fit, it unfortunately adds 2 pounds 8.5 ounces to the total weight and brings the minimum trail weight to 4 pounds 5.9 ounces or 1 pound 1.5 ounces per person. This minimum trail weight per person is comparable to that of a Tarptent Squall 2, assuming full occupancy. The added cost of purchasing the Mega Bug (Mega Light + Mega Bug = $459.90) is roughly equivalent to purchasing two, 2-person Squall 2s ($450).
Setup is slightly more complicated when using the Mega Bug. I found it easiest to stake out the Mega Light canopy, raise the canopy with the Mega Bug in position (by matching the apexes), and then attach the Mega Bug’s shock corded tie outs to the previously positioned Mega Light stakes. It was more difficult to achieve proper tension on the Mega Light when staking and raising the Mega Bug first.
The Mega Bug is overkill. A better add-on product would be a no-see-um mesh skirt with an attached floor that attaches to the perimeter of the Mega Light with Velcro. In this way it would convert the Mega Light into a fully enclosed single-walled shelter with all the protection of the Mega Bug without the weight. In its current configuration, most lightweight backpackers will choose the leave the Mega Bug in the store, opting instead to alter the pitch or sew mesh onto the perimeter to ward off insects.

The Mega Bug is an optional bug liner, which converts the Black Diamond Mega Light into a double wall tent. It also adds 2 pounds 8.5 ounces to the minimum trail weight and complicates setup. With four occupants, the weight per person is comparable to carrying two Tarptent Squalls.
Two things make the Black Diamond Mega Light unique. It has a mesh-backed top vent, which allows you to pitch the shelter against the ground to limit bug entry. It also comes with a very nice, 11-ounce carbon fiber center pole, a lighter option than that offered by competitors.
The Mega Light is a very well designed lightweight pyramid shelter. I would recommend changing a few small details to bring this shelter to perfection. Black Diamond should add adjustability to the tie outs, especially the corners, using very small webbing or even smaller cord-style ladder locks. The cost could be reduced by offering the carbon center pole as an additional option. Ultralight backpackers accustomed to carrying trekking poles are more likely to use the trekking pole adapter to save weight. The side-release buckle at the bottom of the zipper should be replaced with a smaller 1/4-inch buckle to reduce weight as well.
The fully enclosed Mega Bug is overkill. Instead, Black Diamond could reduce the Mega Bug down to a 15-inch high bug netting skirt and a waterproof floor that attaches with Velcro to the bottom perimeter of the Mega Light, offering much lighter weight and cost. This would have much greater appeal to lightweight backpackers looking for the greatest function to weight ratio.
Most canister stoves come with extreme warnings to not use a windshield around them for fear of causing an explosion. Many experienced users ignore these warnings. What is the risk? Can a gas canister explode?
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This showshoe lets you climb like a mountain goat, but needs more flotation and some weight reduction.
The Atlas BC24, a new snowshoe for winter 2006-2007, is designed for climbing, making it perfect for mountaineers, snowboarders or backcountry skiers. It’s 24 inches long for better maneuverability but has the surface area of a 25 inch snowshoe. It has the most aggressive crampon system I have ever seen and it has a superb binding that lays flat for easier packing. What is there not to like about the BC24

The Atlas BC24 is designed for climbing, making it perfect for mountaineers, snowboarders or backcountry skiers.
|
Manufacturer |
Atlas Snow-Shoe Co. |
|
Year/Model |
Atlas 2006 BC24 |
|
Dimensions |
8.75 in wide x 24 in long (22 cm x 61cm) |
|
Frame |
Anodized 7075 aluminum alloy tubing, 3/4 in (19 mm) diameter, flattened at the front and mid-side |
|
Deck |
Duratek, a proprietary urethane-coated fabric claimed to have three times the abrasion resistance of Hypalon and lighter weight |
|
Binding |
Summit molded urethane with two urethane toe straps and one urethane heel strap, built-in arch support, right and left specific |
|
Crampons |
Stainless steel toe, heel and lateral |
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Weight |
Measured weight 4.16 lb/pair (1.89 kg); manufacturer specification 4.13 lb (1.87 kg) |
|
Features |
Spring-loaded suspension, heel lift bar |
|
Load rating |
Up to 200 lb (91 kg) |
|
MSRP |
$199.99 |
The Atlas BC24 is designed for a specific purpose – climbing. They are targeted at users whose end goal is snowboarding, backcountry skiing or mountaineering. However, they are also recommended for general backcountry snow travel. The BC24 excels in many ways for these applications, but it also has a few drawbacks that will be mentioned later in the review.

The Atlas BC24 snowshoe, bottom (left) and top (right).
The BC24 is very rugged and will take some hard use. The frame is 7075 aluminum alloy, one of the strongest available. The front and mid-sides are flattened to create a very stiff geometry. The brown anodized coating scratches fairly easily, so it’s not hard to accumulate a lot of visible scratches in the finish.
The decking is Atlas’s Duratek, which is a proprietary urethane-coated fabric claimed to have three times the abrasion resistance of Hypalon while weighing less. It has a fabric core, and is unquestionably durable.
I especially like the Summit binding on the BC24. It’s relatively simple, easy to put on and very secure. Its base is contoured to provide arch support. The snowshoes are clearly marked as left and right foot specific. There are two toe straps (many other snowshoe bindings use three) plus a heel strap, all made of durable urethane. They tighten very easily and hold tight using the tried and true hook-and-hole fastening system. The bindings lay flat, making it easier to attach the snowshoes to the outside of a backpack.

The Summit binding is nearly a step-in. Just position your foot, tighten the two toe straps, and then tighten the heel strap. It’s very rugged and secure.
The crampons on the underside of the BC24 are plain wicked! They may be the most aggressive snowshoe crampons I have seen. The pivoting toe plate has seven 1-inch long claws on it. The crampons are shovel-like to get a good bite while climbing, and all are sharp. Under the heel there are more shovel-like crampons, and fore and aft of it are two sets of lateral crampons. The Atlas crampons beat anything offered on other snowshoes for reliable traction on wind-packed snow and ice.

The Atlas BC24 has very aggressive toe, heel and lateral crampons (left). The toe crampons (right) are shovel-like to enhance climbing ability. Note the wrap-around pivot strap (left) that creates Atlas’s Spring-Loaded Suspension.
Finally, the BC24 has Atlas’s Spring-Loaded Suspension, which is now standard on all Atlas snowshoes. This unique suspension/pivot system consists of a long pivot strap that connects to the aft end of the binding above the frame, wraps around the frame, and then connects to the fore end of the binding below the frame (left photo above). It doesn’t put spring into your step, as the name implies. Rather, the design builds some torsion into the pivot strap and tilts the toe down, so the binding quickly aligns the snowshoe for each step. The result is consistent tracking and improved stability. The pivot strap/binding design also puts your foot closer to the front of the snowshoe for better articulation and climbing ability.

In the raised foot position, the pivot strap on the Atlas BC24 Series has moderate torsion, as shown. It does not raise the deck of the snowshoe up under the foot as much as other snowshoes with a stiffer pivot strap, but it also didn’t flip snow onto my backside like other snowshoes.
The Atlas BC24 does what it was designed to do – climb – very well. It excelled on firm cold snow, wind-packed snow, ice, steep slopes and side hills. The combination of a stiff frame, secure binding, aggressive crampons, and heel lift bar (when needed) allowed me to climb like a mountain goat in these snowshoes. Nothing else comes close.
Their limitations were more apparent in soft snow and wet snow. I used the BC24 for snow travel while carrying a backpack, and for winter camping. My weight plus the weight of my backpack can reach up to 200 pounds, so a “backcountry” snowshoe needs to have extra surface area to provide more flotation when I am carrying a backpack. Also, more flotation is required in soft untracked mountain snow. The BC24, with 24 inches of length and 173 square inches of surface area, simply does not have enough flotation for soft snow conditions. On many occasions I was sinking in a foot or more with the BC24, which makes breaking trail very laborious.

I compared the flotation of the Atlas BC24 with a 30-inch snowshoe side by side in soft snow. The 24-inch long BC24 (right foot) sank in almost twice as much as a 30-inch long snowshoe (left foot).
While the BC24’s aggressive crampon system delivered superb performance in firm cold snow, it turned into a weakness in warm wet snow conditions. When traveling from colder shade snow to wet sun snow, the crampons clogged up with ice and nearly doubled the weight of the snowshoe. I found myself frequently kicking the snowshoes against trees to clean the crampons out. Most snowshoes ice up, but the BC24 does it more because of its extensive crampon system. I like to spray the crampons with silicone to keep snow from sticking.

The extensive crampon system on the BC24 is more prone than most to icing up in wet snow conditions, which can double the weight of the snowshoe.
The Atlas BC24 snowshoe is a standout if it exactly matches your needs and conditions – it’s a champ for climbing in firm cold snow conditions. For other applications and conditions – backcountry snow travel with or without a pack in soft or wet snow conditions – it’s a mixed bag. Its traction and stability are superb, but its flotation in soft snow is inadequate and it has a greater tendency to ice up in wet snow.
Another issue is weight – although the BC24 is very sturdy (a definite plus), it is also on the heavy side at 4.16 pounds per pair. A snowshoe that will be carried much of the time should be lighter. I would like to see a Backcountry 30 (30 inches long) with all of the BC24’s great features that weighs less than 4 pounds per pair.
For climbing in firmer cold snow I highly recommend the BC24, especially if your snowshoeing facilitates another snow activity. However, for mixed backcountry snow travel, including soft snow and carrying a backpack, I would recommend a lightweight 30 inch (or larger) snowshoe that provides better flotation.
The Atlas BC24 has a superb binding and crampon system for exceptional stability and climbing ability.
A dense knit merino wool mid-layer
When I first saw the Ibex Shak Full Zip at the Outdoor Retailer show this winter, I couldn’t resist it. I had been looking to experiment with some mid-layer garments, and the Shak immediately made it onto my mental list of candidates. Why? The dense knit merino wool on the Shak is luscious. It is a smoother and tighter knit than any other wool product I had seen, and the weight, look and feel of the Shak were just what I was looking for. Why bother look at such a heavy mid layer? The Shak may not be the mid-layer of choice for an SUL kit, but most of us spend at least as much time on front country day trips or training runs as we do in the backcountry. So I was looking to explore some new fabrics and weights to see how they performed – and maybe find a few surprises.

The Ibex Shak Full Zip is a densely knit merino wool mid-layer. The 390 g/m2 fabric makes ths a heavy mid-layer, but it is a versatile and handsome garment when UL is not your first priority.
The smooth surface of the Shak is as comfortable to me as a merino wool base layer, and the tight knit has another benefit – it repels water like a duck. I’ve had my Shak out in a handful of moderate rain storms and have yet to have it absorb more than a small amount of water. It breathes very well and fits a niche similar to a good soft shell. Perhaps with more use the Shak might not be quite so water repellent, but so far I’m impressed. My sample is a men’s XL and weighs 18.2 ounces and I would estimate that a men’s large will weigh about 17 ounces. The construction and overall quality is superb. The locking zipper operates flawlessly and the flatlock seams are a good choice to complement the smooth finish of the Shak. It’s my new favorite front-country jacket.
The Shak comes in other styles including the Shak Jersey with an 11 inch zipper, and the Shak Sport, with an 8 inch zipper and contrast colors. It is worth noting that these styles will be lighter than the Full Zip model. The Shak also comes in women’s styles. The women’s line includes the Shak Jersey, Shak Full Zip and Hooded Shak. The men’s Shak Full Zip runs $145 retail. Not a bad price when compared with soft shells that perform a similar function.

The Shak has a moderate turtle neck and a comfortable chin guard that protects your chin from the zipper. The seams are kept off the shoulder. I found the Shak to be very comfortable and breathable when wearing a pack.

Ibex refers to the Shak fabric as dense knit merino wool. And indeed it is dense. Here you can see the tight, comfortable, weather-repelling knit and the flatlock seams.

The chest pocket is large enough for essential items and is backed with a lightweight synthetic mesh.
Trends Editor Craig Mortensen discusses the joys of simplification and describes his transition to an ultralight load.
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The Montane eVENT Quick-Fire Jacket offers great features such as a full coverage hood, drop tail, excellent sizing, dual vent pockets, and super-breathable eVENT fabric, all at a lightweight 11.9 ounces (size large).
The Montane Quick-Fire eVENT jacket is a just-right rain jacket. It offers full coverage with a wire brim hood, drop tail and effective seam taping. The use of very breathable eVENT fabric with dual venting chest pockets and open positions on the cuffs keep you dry during serious exertion. The 11.9 ounce weight (size large) is excellent, given the list of features.
|
  Year/Model |
2006 Montane eVENT Quick-Fire Jacket |
|
  Style |
Full-zip hooded rain shell |
|
  Weight |
measured weight 11.9 oz (337 g) size L, manufacturer’s specification 11.3 oz (320 g) size M |
|
  Shell Fabric |
eVENT “Super Lightweight” 3 Layer – 2.51 oz/yd2 (85 g/m2 laminated to oleophobic, air permeable, hydrophobic ePTFE and Nylon Tricot, 20 denier Nylon 66 mini rip-stop, waterproof to a minimum of 30,000mm hydrostatic head with a minimum MVTR of 17,000 g/m2/24hrs |
|
  Features |
Rollaway hood with wire brim, drop tail, reflective stripes, two vent chest pockets, front zip with double storm flap and Velcro closures |
|
  MSRP |
ÂŁ 170 (~$330) |
Rain jackets made from eVENT are the most breathable around. The fabric is so effective that pit zips or other forms of ventilation are rarely needed to keep you drier than with any other fabrics. Sure, there are lighter fabrics, but if you’re hiking in the all-day rain or wet snow that I regularly experience in the Washington Cascades, nothing beats an eVENT jacket. The Montane Quick-Fire is a fantastic example of a lightweight eVENT jacket that blends light weight with a feature set that doesn’t compromise usability.

The Quick-Fire jacket kept me dry from the outside and the inside during various activities, from snowshoeing in wet snow to long winter mountain bike rides.
The coverage and breathability of the Quick Fire is so good that I stayed dry in the wettest of conditions. When snowshoeing in very wet conditions, I was thoroughly impressed by how dry I remained. When mountain biking I usually either wear a water repellent windshirt and come home a bit wet or wear a jacket made of polyurethane-coated fabric and put up with sweatiness. With the Quick-Fire, though, I could wear the jacket continuously for long rides including highly aerobic uphills and descents through downpours and deep water crossings. This jacket kept me drier than any garment I’ve ever used. The Quick-Fire also excelled in normal hiking conditions.
One downside of eVENT is that it’s almost too breathable at times. When conditions are very cold, a Gore Tex jacket acts as a partial vapor barrier and keeps warm moist air closer to your skin. In these same conditions, eVENT’s extreme breathability can leave you feeling just a bit colder.
The lightest eVENT jacket in the Montane line (and one of the lightest hooded eVENT jackets on the market), the Quick-Fire is constructed of a 3-layer “Super Lightweight” version of the fabric. It has a roomy athletic cut – I could comfortably layer a puffy belay jacket underneath or wear the jacket over a thin base layer. It is cut short in the front and has a drop tail that is about 5.5 inches longer. A one-handed adjuster on either side seals the jacket at the hips. I found the jacket’s cut to be comfortable when belaying with a harness, leaning over when mountain biking, or wearing a pack when hiking.

The Montane Quick-Fire hood offers excellent coverage and adjustability.
I love the hood of the Quick-Fire. It has a broad wire brim that I found easy to adjust on the go and a Velcro tab in the back to raise or lower the brim. It even kept my big nose dry – rare in a hood! One-handed drawcord adjustments sealed the jacket against my face while a DWR “Beardguard” lining was comfortable against my chin without freezing up. The hood is large enough to wear over a climbing helmet but I found it to be a better fit when worn under the helmet.

The hood rolls up with a fabric strip and Velcro but the long strip sometimes gets in the way when not in use.
One thing I didn’t like about the hood was the roll-up system. A long strip of fabric hangs inside the collar of the jacket, loops through a tab on the outside of the collar and secures with Velcro. While it keeps the hood nicely stashed, it doesn’t roll up the hood as tightly as some other systems I’ve seen and the long fabric strip often got in my way or flipped out of the jacket.

The Montane Quick Fire eVENT jacket has an athletic cut and a front zipper with a double storm flap.
The front of the jacket closes with a 2-way zipper that can be opened at the top or bottom. A 1.5 inch storm flap protects the zipper and seals with Velcro tabs. I would have preferred a waterproof zipper to simplify the front closure but the system works just fine and provides an effective seal against the elements.

The cuffs can be cinched up with Velcro and also have a Velcro-secured full-open position for increased ventilation.
When extra ventilation is needed, but the front zipper can’t be opened, you have two options. One is to open the two vented chest pockets. These pockets are placed well above a waist belt, are large enough for a Nalgene water bottle and have waterproof zippers- they are the only pockets on the jacket. The other option is to open the cuffs and secure them at full open for extra ventilation in the arms. This solution is very effective as long as your hands aren’t elevated, as when using trekking poles or an ice axe.
In our 2005 Rainwear Review Summary the Integral Designs eVENT Rain Jacket earned the best score of all the rain jackets reviewed. I used this jacket for 2 years prior to getting the Montane Quick-Fire. While the Quick-Fire weighs about 2.5 ounces more than my Integral Designs jacket, I found the benefits of a full-coverage hood, longer cut, adjustable waist with drop tail, and extra storage and ventilation options more than outweighed the increase in weight. This is my new favorite rain jacket.
At around $330, the Montane Quick-Fire is $50 more than the full-length Integral Designs eVENT Thru Hiker. In addition, it is difficult to procure outside of the U.K. and Europe. However, if you can track one down, the attention to detail, overall quality, and features for the weight make the Quick-Fire a good value, even at that price.
The Montane Quick-Fire eVENT jacket offers a great feature set and weighs less than 12 ounces. There are lighter rain jackets out there, but none that will keep you as dry in truly wet conditions. This jacket has an excellent performance-to-weight ratio.
While the Quick-Fire is a great jacket, I would like to see the following improvements:
A 3.5 ounce hoodless, waterproof jacket
A 3.5 ounce waterproof jacket sounds pretty attractive. So I was happy to get my hands on the Montane Featherlite H2O jacket this winter. The featherlite H2O is a PU coated nylon jacket, but feels like a windshirt – it is indeed a 3.5 ounce waterproof jacket. The only catch; it does not have a hood. The Featherlite is targeted at active use in consistent cold rain, specifically at runners and bicyclists. In these cases, users are wearing a hat or helmet, and a hood may cause undo restriction or overheating. I was curious to see how useful this jacket would be as a replacement for a windshirt and how I would adjust to the lack of a hood in dicey weather.
As a replacement for a windshirt, the Featherlite H2O works just fine until you really push the breathability. Under less active conditions, and in cold weather I found the Featherlite to be a good replacement for a windshirt. In heavy aerobic activity such as uphill climbs in cool (50 degrees Farenheit) weather, I found the Featherlite built up interior moisture more quickly than in most other windshirts. This is not a surprising result. But traditional windshirts will soak through much more quickly in moderate or heavy rain, and the Featherlite H2O will keep you relatively dry and toasty in wet, cold conditions. I used my Featherlite mostly under its intended conditions – cold, wet winter hikes and trail runs. Here the Featherlite performed very well. It seals up well, and I stayed dry under the wettest conditions I could find this winter. Sometimes a little water would get down below my hat and trickle down my neck. It helps to keep this jacket sealed up pretty tightly around the neck, but that can be uncomfortable if you are actively running or biking. For long duration backcountry storms, the Featherlite is not my ideal jacket. The lack of hood significantly detracts from the jacket’s function in these conditions. But if you usually wear a wide brimmed hat and you also carry a synthetic, lightweight balaclava, I think the Featherlite could be perform well in long, cold storms. This could make up a very light and functional storm system – Featherlite H2O jacket, wide brimmed hat and lighweight balaclava. As emergency storm gear or in front country activities the Featherlite H2O jacket is an excellent choice.

The Featherlite H20 features a double nylon storm flap, with velcro closures. This seals out mositure very effectively, but this system makes the zipper less convenient to operate.
The Featherlite H2O jacket has a couple of unusual features. On the upper back there are four vents to assist is overall breathabiity. The vents are not lined with mesh, and are completely open. The upper section overlaps the lower section, and I had no problems with rain getting in through the vents. It was difficult to assess the effecetiveness of the vents. When used without a pack, the vents may help significantly, but with a pack their effectiveness will be reduced or nearly eliminated. The other unusual feature is the double closure storm flap that covers the zipper. The flaps are lined with occassional velcro closures. These flaps are very effective at keeping out weather, but make operation of the zipper more difficult. Having effective storm flaps is important when using this jacket is high velocity activities such as biking or running, but in general I found the flaps to be overkill.

The aggressive drop tail is very welcome when sitting down in wet weather, and when using the Featherlite H20 while bicycling. The four vents can be seen on the upper back. These add breathability, but do not perform well when wearing a pack.
Roger and Sue Caffin’s gear lists for their upcoming 4 months in Europe
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Gossamer Gear offers an ultralight spinnaker fabric catenary-shaped tarp for one or two people that weighs just 8 ounces!
When you get down to the basics of ultralight backpacking, it’s hard to beat a tarp’s versatility and ability to provide the most shelter for the weight. But many backpackers are concerned that a skimpy one-person tarp or poncho-tarp doesn’t provide enough shelter, especially in wind-driven rain. Enter the Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn. As the name implies, it’s a two-person tarp, but since it weighs only 8 ounces (2.2 ounces more than Gossamer Gear’s SpinnSolo tarp), even solo hikers can enjoy extra space at virtually no weight penalty. How well does that approach work in practice?
|
  Year/Manufacturer/Model |
2006 Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn |
|
  Style |
Catenary ridgeline spinnaker fabric two-person tarp |
|
  What’s Included |
Tarp, 25 ft of EZC spectra-core guyline, spinnaker cloth storage sack |
|
  Fabrics |
0.9 oz/yd2 (30 g/m2) silicone impregnated spinnaker cloth |
|
  Poles and Stakes |
None included. Use trekking poles or optional tarp poles |
|
  Dimensions |
Front width is 110 in (279 cm), rear width 86 in (218 cm), ridgeline 114 in (290 cm), front overhang 12 in (30 cm), rear overhang 6 in (15 cm) |
|
  Features |
Fully waterproof high thread count spinnaker cloth, 70d coated nylon ripstop tieout reinforcements, grosgrain pullouts, EZC spectra-core line (275-lb. tensile strength), color-coded front and rear pullouts, clothesline loops on the inside |
|
  Packed Size |
About 10 in x 8 in x 5 in (25 x 20 x 13 cm) in provided carry sack |
|
  Total Weight |
Measured weight 8.12 oz (230 g) (tarp only, before seam sealing), manufacturer specification 8 oz (227 g); measured total weight 9 oz (255 g) (includes tarp, guylines, storage sack) |
|
  Trail Weight |
Measured weight 10.8 oz (318 g) with seam sealing, guylines, and 8 titanium stakes (excludes storage sack) |
|
  Protected Area |
47 ft2 (4.4 m2), manufacturer specification |
|
  Floor Area/Trail Weight Ratio |
69.6 ft2/lb based on 47 ft2 protected area and weight of 0.675 lb |
|
  MSRP |
$175 |
|
  Options |
Bug Canopy ($19, 3 oz), basic stake package ($20, 2.2 oz), premium stake package ($22, 2.6 oz), aluminum pole set ($24, 3.3 oz) |
The Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn is one of only two two-person spinnaker cloth catenary tarps on the market (the other is the Mountain Laurel Designs Grace Duo that weighs 9.8 ounces and also costs $175). For its 8 ounce weight, it provides a whopping 47 square feet of protected area. The only thing that could beat it would be a cuben fiber tarp costing nearly twice as much.
The SpinnTwinn is constructed of 0.9 ounce/square yard spinnaker cloth. The particular spinnaker cloth used by Gossamer Gear has a high thread count and is silicone coated so it is completely waterproof. It is not quite as strong as silnylon, but does not stretch or sag as silnylon does. All tieout points are reinforced with 70 denier coated nylon ripstop. Spinnaker cloth is very “crinkly” compared to silnylon, so it can be noisy in the wind if it’s not tightly pitched.
Some hikers will have trouble deciding whether to purchase the Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn or the one-person SpinnSolo. The following table compares the two (based on manufacturer data).
| Tarp Weight (oz) |
Sheltered Area (sq. ft) |
Ridgeline Length (in) |
Front Width (in) |
Rear Width (in) |
|
| SpinnSolo | 5.8 | 27.8 | 100 | 84 | 54 |
| SpinnTwinn | 8.0 | 47.0 | 114 | 110 | 86 |

The Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn (left) weighs just 2.2 ounces more than the SpinnSolo (right), but has 70% more protected area.
Unless a person is strictly a solo hiker and a gram pincher it makes a lot of sense to choose the SpinnTwinn. It provides 70% more shelter for an additional 2.2 ounces, and the extra 14 inches of length is a meaningful improvement for taller hikers.

The front (red) and rear (blue) pullouts are color-coded to assist setup. All guyouts are reinforced with 70 denier coated nylon ripstop.
Although it’s not absolutely necessary, it’s a good idea to seam seal the ridgeline with diluted silicone. It also strengthens and protects the stitching.
Most hikers set the SpinnTwinn up using trekking poles. For hikers who do not use trekking poles, Gossamer Gear offers an aluminum pole set that weighs 3.3 ounces. The recommended front and rear heights are 45 inches and 32 inches respectively. However, the tarp can be set up higher or lower depending on trekking pole length and wind/weather conditions.
The total trail weight for the SpinnTwinn (including seam sealing, guylines, stakes, and carry sack) is 11.2 ounces.
The SpinnTwinn can be pitched very quickly whether you use Gossamer Gear’s tarp poles, adjustable trekking poles, or fixed-length trekking poles. Detailed pitching instructions are provided with the tarp. It requires a minimum of eight stakes for a secure pitch. A tarp is extremely versatile and many different pitching styles are possible. For more detailed information on tarp setup and techniques, read Ryan Jordan’s article on Advanced Tarp Camping Techniques for Inclement Conditions.
A tarp doesn’t provide any bug protection, so a tarp works best where bugs are scarce. Alternatively, the user can wear a headnet or Gossamer Gear’s Bug Canopy. A standard tarp setup (open both ends) doesn’t provide much wind protection, but it’s easy to pin down the foot end or one side of the SpinnTwinn to block the wind.
The beauty of a tarp is that it provides lots of room and easy entrance and exit with a minimal weight penalty. This is especially true for a solo hiker using a light two-person tarp like the SpinnTwinn, and it is easy to get in and out. Because it is more ventilated than an enclosed shelter, a tarp is less prone to condensation than any other type of shelter. However, under the right conditions, even a tarp can develop condensation.

A 30 °F night resulted in quite a bit of condensation inside the SpinnTwinn on this November backpacking trip in southern Utah. The patches and streaks are from brushing the inside of the tarp.

My friend Don (Photon) Johnston used a SpinnTwinn as a solo shelter on a July backpacking trip we did in the southern Rockies. We had almost continuous rain, and ended up bivouacking at 12,000 feet for two nights. The rain was punctuated with periods of thunder and wind, but Don stayed perfectly dry under the SpinnTwinn. It was very nice to have the extra sheltered space so we could congregate during the rain. (Photo by Jay Ham, Backpacking Light Make Your Own Gear Editor)
The Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn tarp is an ultralight backpacker’s dream come true. With a trail weight of just 10.8 ounces the SpinnTwinn provides luxurious space for one person or adequate room for two people. A solo user will still have plenty of room even when the foot end or one side of the tarp is staked to the ground. This versatile tarp can provide shelter for up to two people and it can be used as a kitchen canopy in rainy weather.
Spinnaker fabric costs more. For comparison, a two-person Oware silnylon CatTarp weighs about 2.1 ounces more and costs $63 less, but it’s significally smaller than the SpinnTwinn. The SpinnTwinn is 1.4 ounces lighter than the Mountain Laurel Designs Grace Duo Tarp, and costs the same. The dimensions of the two tarps are very similar.
The Gossamer Gear SpinnTwinn is one of the only two-person catenary ridgeline spinnaker fabric tarps available at the present time. It is exceptionally well designed and constructed.
None (which is rare for a Backpacking Light product review)
Durable, loads of flotation, and less than 3 pounds per pair – a lightweight snow traveler’s dream.
I previously tested the Northern Lites Elite snowshoe and found it to be the lightest general purpose snowshoe around. It definitely matches our philosophy for lightweight backcountry travel. In this review, I take a look at the Northern Lites Backcountry snowshoe, which is basically the same design and construction but 5 inches longer and 1 inch wider. The difference is the intended use – traveling in soft snow while carrying a backpack and snow camping. How does the Backcountry compare with the Elite (and other snowshoes), and which is the best choice for different applications and conditions?

The Northern Lites Backcountry (left) at 30 x 9 inches and 45.7 ounces/pair is truly lightweight, and fits with our lightweight philosophy, but how does its performance compare with other (heavier) snowshoes?
|
  Year/Model |
Northern Lites 2006 Backcountry |
|
  Dimensions |
9 in wide x 30 in long (23 cm x 76 cm) |
|
  Frame |
Aluminum alloy tubing, 5/8 in (16 mm) diameter, powder coated |
|
  Deck |
CoolthaneTM (polyurethane coated nylon mesh) which is claimed to be 250% tougher than Hypalon |
|
  Binding |
TruTrak Binding System made of a heavier weight of Coolthane, three hook-and-hole front straps plus one webbing and buckle heel strap; pivot strap is 1.5 in (4 cm) wide Biothane |
|
  Crampons |
Duraluminum aluminum alloy, toe and heel |
|
  Weight |
Measured weight 2.85 lb (1.29 kg) per pair; manufacturer specification 2.69 pounds (1.22 kg) |
|
  Load rating |
175 to 250 pounds (79 to 113 kg) |
|
  MSRP |
$229 |

The Northern Lites Backcountry, bottom side (left) and top side (right), is a larger snowshoe (30 x 9 inches) designed to provide better flotation in soft snow and while carrying a backpack.
While it’s readily apparent that the Northern Lites Backcountry (and Elite) are the lightest snowshoes around, weight isn’t everything. We evaluated their performance in comparison to other snowshoes in various applications and conditions. Also, it’s useful to evaluate the Backcountry in relation to its lighter and smaller brother, the Elite, and determine the ideal application for each.

The Northern Lites Backcountry (left) at 45.7 ounces/pair (my measurement), is the lightest backcountry snowshoe around. Compared to the popular Northern Lites Elite (right), it’s 5 inches longer, 1 inch wider, has 35% more surface area, and weighs 7.3 ounces/pair more.
The deck on the Backcountry is Coolthane (polyurethane coated nylon mesh), which is claimed to be 250% more abrasion resistant than Hypalon. It is also nice and light. In dozens of miles of testing, I was not able to damage this material.
The deck is attached to the frame using 21 toughened nylon clips. Each of these has a 0.25 inch protruding ridge on the underside that acts as a perimeter cleat for additional traction.
The binding on the Backcountry is simple and functional compared to the more elaborate bindings on other high-end snowshoes we have reviewed. The Elite’s binding is made of a heavier weight of the Coolthane decking material that is riveted directly to a flexible Biothane pivot strap. Biothane is basically nylon seatbelt webbing in a water resistant, toughened polyurethane shell. There are three hook-and-hole straps across the toe area, plus a webbing heel strap with a ladder-lock buckle.

The Backcountry has a simple collapsible binding with three hook-and-hole straps over the toe area, and a nylon webbing heel strap. I found the binding easy to tighten and secure. The heel strap was long enough for these size 12 boots, but was too short when I wore bulky pac-type boots with the snowshoes.
This type of binding is similar to that found on other brands of snowshoes, and has been proven over time to be durable, secure and reliable. I would personally prefer another hook-and-hole strap around the heel rather than the webbing strap because it is easier to tighten and loosen. Also, three toe straps may be overkill, and a couple ounces might be saved by going to two straps instead of three.
The crampons are a hardened aluminum alloy with serrated edges that are cut at about a 45 degree angle. The toe crampon is attached to the pivot strap, and the heel crampon is attached to the decking below the heel plate. Each crampon has a plastic “de-icing pad” on it, which resisted icing to a large extent, but still iced up in contrasting sun snow/shade snow conditions.

Toe and heel crampons on the Backcountry are made of an aluminum alloy and are not very aggressive compared to other snowshoes. Each of the nylon clips that attach the deck to the frame has a 0.25 inch protruding ridge on the bottom for additional traction.

The Backcountry’s pivot strap has a medium torsional stiffness that works well for general snowshoeing. When a foot is raised, it tilts the snowshoe to a favorable angle to improve maneuverability and maintain a smooth forward glide.
The most notable difference with the Backcountry snowshoe is their flotation. It was wonderful to travel through soft snow and only sink in 6 to 8 inches, compared to a foot or more with shorter snowshoes. That benefit was especially appreciated when carrying a backpack. The actual gain in surface area compared to the Elite is 35% (222 square inches compared to 164, manufacturer specification), which is not a huge difference, but the difference in flotation is very noticeable.

The Backcountry’s flotation is superb in soft snow. In this same snow, I sunk in a foot or more with 25-inch snowshoes.
In my climbing tests, I found the Backcountry has “adequate” uphill traction under most snow conditions. It works best in hilly, more gentle terrain. In soft snow, the usual technique is to switchback up steeper hills, so the crampon area doesn’t make much difference. But the limitations of the Backcountry’s minimal crampons are more noticeable on steep hills with firm snow, sidehills, and ice. Because of the minimal size of the crampons and their blunt teeth, the crampons simply do not bite and hold as well on steep slopes and on hard icy snow as other snowshoes we tested that had sharp stainless steel teeth and lateral crampons. The crampons on the Backcountry (and Elite) are simply not that aggressive, making these snowshoes less suited for mountaineering or activities that require serious hill climbing (like snowboarding or backcountry skiing). However, the aluminum alloy crampons held up well, showing little wear after several months of testing.

The Northern Lites Backcounty on a very cold day. I wore insulated overboots (Forty Below Light Energy) over lightweight insulated boots (Kamik Force). The snowshoe bindings adjusted to fit the bulky footwear, but the heel strap was none too long.
For downhill walking on firm snow, I found the longer Backcountry snowshoe more prone to toboggan than shorter and toothier snowshoes. I was able to adjust to this easily, and it helped to position my weight more forward and avoid leaning back. However, the sliding is an annoyance, especially while carrying a backpack.
On sidehills, the Backcountry’s performance was average. Lacking lateral crampons, they broke loose and slid sideways more easily.
The Northern Lites Backcountry snowshoes are also very packable. The bindings lay flat, making the shoes easy to strap to a backpack, and the extra weight is much less noticeable than other snowshoes weighing nearly twice as much.
The Northern Lites Backcountry snowshoe is an effective balance of light weight, durability, and performance. Their extra surface area provides significantly more flotation in soft snow, especially when breaking trail or carrying a backpack. For travel in softer snow I recommend getting the Backcountry rather than the Elite. The Backcountry weighs 7.3 ounces more, but the difference in flotation is remarkable, and worth the extra weight. By keeping the snowshoes on top of the snow, the Backcountry’s actually save effort so you can move faster and longer. For snowshoeing on more gentle terrain in firmer snow or on packed trails, the Elite is the snowshoe of choice.
These are not mountaineering snowshoes. The crampon system on the Backcountry (and Elite) is minimal and not very aggressive, so these snowshoes do not bite and hold very well in steep or icy conditions compared to other snowshoes with stainless steel teeth and lateral crampons. For those conditions I recommend a toothier snowshoe like the Atlas BC24 and MSR Lightning Ascent. Most of the time the crampons on the Northern Lites Backcountry are “adequate”, but it’s important to recognize their limitations.
For general snowshoeing in mixed terrain, especially in soft snow, the Northern Lites Backcountry really shines. They are perfect for lightweight snow travel carrying a backpack.
The Northern Lites Backcountry (and other Northern Lites models) are the only truly ultralight snowshoes on the market. They are durable and perform well in a variety of snow conditions and terrains.
This fixed-length carbon fiber trekking pole is not as elegant or lightweight as our top choice Gossamer Gear Lightrek pole, but it’s a strong performer and is the value champ at only $72/pair.
Adapt All-Terrain Gear is a new startup company. Their first offering is the Bison carbon fiber pole, which weighs 3.9 ounces/pole and costs only $72. The weight is miniscule and the price is a super value, but how do these poles perform and hold up under rough field use?
|
  Year/Model |
2007 Adapt Gear Bison poles |
|
  Style |
Fixed length |
|
  Shaft Material |
Carbon fiber |
|
  Tips |
Carbide |
|
  Grips |
Molded EVA foam (3 styles available) |
|
  Grip Size |
Medium-large |
|
  Weight |
3.9 oz (111 g) measured weight 47.5 in (121 cm) length; manufacturer’s specification 3.9 oz (111 g) 47.5 in (121 cm) length |
|
  Pole Length |
37-50 in (94-127 cm), user specified |
|
  Baskets Included? |
None presently available |
|
  MSRP |
$72 |

The Adapt Gear Bison poles taking a rest in the southern Utah backcountry.
The Adapt Gear Bison poles are the frugal ultralighter’s delight in that what you see is what you get – a shaft, grip, and tip. They’re simple, light, strong and cheap, with no wrist strap or basket.
At 3.9 ounces/pole, the Bison is the third lightest pole we have tested. Only the Gossamer Gear Lightrek pole (2.8 ounces/pole) and Titanium Goat poles (3.1 ounces/pole) are lighter.
So how strong and durable are they, and how do they perform in the field? I will get to that a little later in the review, but first let’s take a closer look at the Bison poles.

The Bison poles are available with your choice of three grip styles (left). I liked the pistol grip on the right the best. The pointed tip (right) is carbide. There is a short plastic sleeve above the tip to make the shaft the same diameter as the tip.
The shaft tapers from about 9/16 inch at the grip to 5/16 inch at the tip. The taper gives the poles a fair amount of flex. I performed a stiffness test by bridging a pole between two chairs and suspending a backpack weighing 25 pounds from the middle of the pole, then measuring the amount they bent from horizontal. They bent 3.5 inches, which is quite a bit compared to 2 inches of measured flex for the Life-Link Superlight, 1 inch measured by Carol Crooker for the Komperdell Featherlight Carbon, and 1.5 inches for many aluminum alloy poles.

Because of their taper, the Adapt Bison poles are not as stiff as many carbon poles. I measured 3.5 inches of flex with a 25 pound backpack applied (left). When I really lean on them in the field (right), they have a distinct bend but they are still quite stiff.
I used the Bison poles a total of 27 days in my testing and encountered all sorts of terrain including packed snow, solid rock, sand, scree and brush – you name it. I am very pleased with their performance. Yes, they are a little more flexible than other carbon fiber poles, but they are not limp or fragile by any means. Even when I put all my weight on them, as when stepping off of ledges or jumping over streams, I had no concern about breaking the poles.
The surefire way to break a pole is to get it wedged in a crack and then lean on it. I wedged the Bison poles in cracks many times and often accidentally put some leverage on them and they survived just fine. They won’t break easily, though all trekking poles will break if you put enough leverage on them (and the lack of baskets makes this more likely). People who weigh more or carry a heavy pack may want to get a stiffer pole with less taper near the tips to avoid any breakage problems.

My constant hiking companion (Photo by Janet Reichl)
The longer length Bison poles (more than 47.5 inches) have a sleeve and shaft extension within the grip, which unfortunately gave them a slight wobble. The first poles I tested had this arrangement, and it didn’t bother me and didn’t fail. Adapt Gear is working to develop a more solid extension, which should be in place when this review is published. Shorter poles do not require the extension and will not have this problem.
The Bison poles do not have any wrist cord or strap. While some hikers prefer straps, I personally don’t miss them at all. A wrist strap can lead to pole breakage when a pole gets wedged or the hiker takes a fall. For a carbon fiber pole of miniscule weight I don’t see a need for a wrist strap, except in some scrambling situations where if you drop a pole, you lose it.
The suitability of a fixed-length trekking pole as a shelter support depends on the pole length and shelter design. Most single wall shelters and tarps require a pole from 42-49 inches, although most shelters can be pitched higher if you insert the pole before staking out the shelter. Effective pole length can also be adjusted by either putting a rock under the handle to raise it or (more commonly) digging a hole or angling the pole to lower it.
These poles are also noticeably quiet on the trail. Unlike the Titanium Goat poles I recently reviewed, whose hollow tubes resonated with every step, the Bison poles give a quiet “chunk” as the tips hit the dirt, no “clank”. One thing I did miss at times is a small trekking basket to keep the poles from sinking very far into sand. Actually trekking baskets are a mixed bag because they tend to fill up with mud and get heavy, requiring constant bumping to clean them out. That aside, the lack of basket options definitely limits their use in snow.
Overall, I found the Adapt Gear Bison poles to be a solid performer and adequately stiff and strong to take hard use in the field.
The Adapt Gear Bison pole is a “Best Buy” among carbon fiber trekking poles. It’s light, strong, durable, and costs only $72 per pair.
Based on our research and testing, we recommend lightweight footwear systems for specific conditions and activities. In addition, our Backpacking Light staffers describe their favorite systems, and two ultralight nomads – Andrew Skurka and Chris Townsend – share their wisdom.
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A feature-rich, heavy load carrier, but it tries to be a bit too much for too many people.
Mountainsmith’s PCT 45 backpack is a smaller volume cousin to their AT 55 backpack and part of their Treklite series (the CDT 45 – a backpack designed for women – is also in this series). It’s a feature-rich backpack designed to carry good-sized heavy loads. With the CDT 45, Mountainsmith has tried to craft a pack that will suit the needs of both on-trail and off-trail users who need to carry high density/low volume loads. Perhaps they have also attempted to fill the perceived needs of too many groups of consumers. In trying to be a backpack for too many types it has missed the mark in some areas, but for many this may well be a very valuable backpack.
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Year/Model |
Mountainsmith 2006 PCT 45 |
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Style |
Internal frame, top loading, top pocket |
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Volume |
Size Regular: 2624 ci standard (43 L), 2929 ci extended (48 L) Size Large: 2685 ci standard (44 L), 2990 ci extended (49 L) |
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Weight |
Regular: 3 lbs 4 oz (1.54 kg)* according to manufacturer’s specification; 3 lbs 8 oz (1.59 kg) per BackpackingLight measurement Large: 3 lbs 5 oz (1.6 kg)* according to manufacturer’s specification |
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Fabrics |
210 High Tenacity Cordura™ nylon body fabric, 210 Ripstop nylon body fabric, 420d High Tenacity Cordura™ nylon reinforcement fabric |
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Features |
Removable top lid converts to a fanny pack, two side pockets, external front pocket for storing wet gear, one zippered and one un-zippered pocket on the hipbelt, two ice axe loops, sternum strap, internal sleeve for a hydration bladder, hydration port |
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Volume To Weight Ratio |
54.2 ci/oz (extended volume, regular size) |
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Comfortable Load Carrying Capacity |
35 lb (15.88 kg) |
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Carry Load to Pack Weight Ratio |
10.0 (based on a 35 lb load and measured weight of 3.5 lb) |
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MSRP |
$179 |
*NOTE: the kilogram values cited for the manufacturer’s specifications come from their website and do not match the pounds/ounces measurement they cite. However, the kilogram value does come closer to the BackpackingLight measurement for the regular sized backpack.
This backpack follows traditional top-loading design trends featuring a main pack-bag, a top lid that can be removed and used as a fanny pack, two side pockets, and a modest front pocket suitable for storing a rain jacket or small tarp. There are also two very small pouches on the hipbelt that are just large enough to hold a snack apiece or a cell phone. While many readers may find these small pouches of use I do not because they are so small.

The two hipbelt pouches are quite small and almost seem like an after thought. They’re barely large enough to hold a decent sized energy bar each.
The two external side pockets can easily hold 1-liter water bottles. The front pocket is capable of storing a moderate amount of gear such as a rain jacket or small tarp. I do not believe it would serve well as a drying pocket since, like the side pockets, it is solid 210 denier nylon. While all the external pockets are slightly stretchy they do not self-seal. While this is not such a concern for the side pockets if you plan to put water bottles in them it can be an issue with the front pocket even when you cinch it closed with the top compression strap. While I never lost anything from the pocket I would like it to seal more snugly against the body of the backpack across the entire width of the top elastic of the pocket.
The PCT 45’s top lid is not very large. It is designed to be removed and used as a summit or fanny pack. However, given its small size I do not think it serves this function that well. The straps used to secure the top lid to your waist are slender and so the weight distribution combined with overall stability are only average. I feel that his attempt to make the top pocket multi-functional was not successful. The backpack would be far better served with a more functional single-purpose top pocket.

The front of the Mountainsmith PCT45 backpack (top left). The PCT45 backpanel (top right) includes all the features you would expect from a heavy load carrier including a padded lumbar support and a very stout suspension system that can easily carry much heavier loads than you could readily pack. The pack sports side pockets (bottom left) suitable for carrying 1-liter water bottles. The side compression straps are long enough to let you secure fairly substantial items to the side as well as provide some limited pack bag compression. It is key with this pack that you pay careful attention to the position of the top lid (bottom right). While this basic closure is common it does not close as tightly as I would like.
This is one of the most comfortable backpacks I have worn. Mountainsmith sells two sizes of the pack: regular and large which cover a torso length fit range of 17 to 23 inches. I tested the size Regular and found it easy to dial in a perfect fit for my torso length.

The hipbelt is secured in a sleeve behind the lumbar pad. Heavy straps behind the backpanel are used to shorten and lengthen the pack torso length.
The rest of PCT 45’s Load Dispersion Technology Suspension consists of a dual density molded foam framesheet and angled aluminum stays that connect to the load lifter straps and hipbelt. The suspension is flexible enough that the pack moves well with my body without becoming a floppy encumbrance. The load lifter straps do a very respectable job of bringing the backpack close to my body when the weight being carried is high. However, the hipbelt stabilizer straps (not to be confused with the heavy straps that secure the hipbelt) seem to have only a minimal effect on the overall feel of the backpack – bottom sway was not affected much whether they were used or not. I could not detect a difference with these straps in use or hanging loose even when carrying a 38 pound load on a day hike.
The backpack features four side compression straps and a top compression strap. While they provide some load control by tightening up the sides of the main pack bag, their overall effectiveness is not spectacular. The top compression strap does a fair job of controlling the top portion of the pack bag and since it must be tightened down to secure the top of the front pocket, I can always count on the upper portion of the main compartment to be fairly stable. Given the nature of this backpack, this is an area that I believe could be greatly enhanced. With a modest re-design of the compression straps and quick-release buckles, a straightjacket compression system – straps that span the entire width of the pack bag – could be made. This would give users much greater control over how they compress the main pack bag. Furthermore, a straightjacket compression system would let users effectively secure large items like snowshoes to the front of the backpack increasing the pack’s utility as a winter backpack.
The suspension is easily capable of carrying loads that would be generally carried in a much larger volume backpack.
We cover the components of a lightweight footwear system – shoes/boots, footbeds, socks, vapor barriers, booties, overboots, and gaiters (everything on or around the foot), discuss the pros and cons of different options, and identify our favorites.
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Lightweight Insoles containing Aerogel for underfoot insulation.
Toasty Feet are insulated with Aerogel, which was developed by Aspen Aerogels for NASA, and is claimed to have the highest thermal insulation value of any solid material available. Their website claims an R-Value per inch for Aerogel of about 12, compared to about 4 for Thinsulate and 2.5 for fiberglass. The Toasty Feet Insole reduces conductive heat loss from the bottom of the foot. So, how do these insoles insulate when you are standing on them?
Aerogel is a silicon-based solid with a porous, sponge-like structure in which 99.8% of the volume is empty space. It’s 1000 times less dense than glass, which is another silicon-based solid. Aerogel is not like conventional foams, but is a special porous material with extreme microporosity on a micron scale. The individual pores are only a few nanometers in size. A nanometer is one billionth of a meter. Aerogel’s insulating power is not dependent on loft. For example, the average sized adult exerts a force of 16-17 psi on a insole, which would result in a significant loss of thermal performance of a closed-cell foam insole, but an insole containing Aerogel is unaffected by pressure.

This is similar to the demo for Toasty Feet Insoles that Polar Wrap has at the Outdoor Retailer Show. The thin insole containing Aerogel insulates a foot from -106 °F dry ice. The normal foot temperature is 72 °F.

The Toast Feet Insole contains Aerogel, developed for NASA, and claimed to have the highest thermal insulation (R-Value/inch = 12) of any solid material available.

A disk of Aerogel (right) is translucent and feels weightless. The Aerogel inside the Toasty Feet is a powder imbedded in the core of the insole (left).
To put Aerogel in an insole, Polar Wrap infuses it as a powder into a carbon-based fabric. So how does it insulate if it’s a powder? The answer is Aerogel is a nanotechnology as explained above – each particle has nanopores (nanometer sized pores) containing air, so the dead air space is there to provide insulation.
The basic Toasty Feet model is a flat insole with a dimpled polyester upper fabric and smooth neoprene lower surface. It does not provide arch support and zonal padding like many replacement footbeds for hiking shoes. Its “sole” purpose seems to be padding and insulation. Cushioned, arch support, and magnetic models, all containing Aerogel, are available.

The top surface of the basic Toasty Feet Insole is dimpled and the lower surface is smooth. Three sizes are available for men, women, and kids respectively; each one is trim-to-fit (right).

We tested the Toasty Feet basic insoles in many different types of footwear as part of our Lightweight Footwear for Snow Travel project. We found them to be very light (2.3 ounces/pair for the men’s model and 1.8 ounces/pair for the women’s model) and noticeably warm. They did their job well, namely keeping the bottom of our feet warm.

The downside of the Toasty Feet Insoles is they are not very durable. Although the bottom is claimed to be neoprene, which is a very durable fabric, it does not appear to be neoprene at all. The patch pulled out of the left insole was from some adhesive in the bottom of a shoe that stuck to the insole. The right insole is cracked around the periphery and the Aerogel is leaking out.
We also note that the toe area (above the first dotted line) is not insulated with Aerogel. Will did not need to trim the insoles to fit his size 12 shoes, which means the toe area was not insulated by the insole. Janet trimed hers down to a women’s size 7, so the toe area of her insoles was insulated with Aerogel.
Overall, we were pleased with the light weight and insulating performance of the Toasty Feet Insoles, but we were disappointed with their lack of durability. Also, for larger foot sizes (larger than a size 7 for both men and women), the toe area is not insulated. The Toasty Feet are a good value at $12.95.
Lightweight synthetic fabric waterproof boot with Primaloft insulation – perfect for active snow travel and cold weather hiking.
Although there are a lot of waterproof insulated boots on the market, it is hard to find a model that is truly lightweight. The Keen Growler is one of the lightest available, has a waterproof/breathable liner, 200-gram Primaloft insulation, and weight of 18 ounces/boot (women’s 7) and 22.2 ounces/boot (men’s 9). I evaluated it as part of our Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel project. Is it the perfect snowshoeing and snow hiking boot?

The Keen Growler has a waterproof/breathable lining, 200-gram Primaloft insulation, and weighs just 16.1 ounces/boot (measured weight, women’s 6.5).
The first time I wore the Keen Growler for snowshoeing, I wore heavy wool socks in them that were too thick and I had a burning feeling in my toe area. I took the insoles out and the problem went away. Since then, I have worn medium weight wool socks inside the Growler with thin SuperFeet insoles and they have been very comfortable. The toe box is fairly wide to accommodate wider feet and thicker socks.

The Growler is very flexible (left), which helps to keep feet warm in cold weather. Their open tread (right) gets good traction in snow and cleans out well.
Since that first trip I have worn the Growler for snowshoeing, snow hiking, and canyon hiking where there were frequent stream crossings, and I love them. My feet stay dry, even when wading in water or snowshoeing in wet snow. Keen’s “patented waterproof technology” performed as well as Gore-Tex XCR lined shoes I have worn for hiking. I realize these are insulated boots intended for winter sports, but I did find them comfortable to hike in at much warmer temperatures.

I wore the Keen Growler while snowshoeing, snow hiking, and late winter wet canyon hiking and found them to be dry, warm, and comfortable over a broader temperature range than expected.
I received the boots for review in late winter, so I was not able to test them in really cold temperatures, but they are rated to -25 F. I know I can wear them with an insulated overboot over them if I need extra warmth, so I would not be afraid to wear them in really cold temperatures or for winter camping.

The Growlers also worked well for wet canyon hiking in late winter. The air temperature was warm, but there was still ice in the canyons. It was really nice to just walk through the cold water rather than having to avoid getting my boots wet. My feet stayed perfectly dry, and the boots themselves did not absorb any water.
Overall, I am very pleased with the fit, comfort, warmth, and dryness of the Growler and highly recommend it for active snow travel.
An extremely versatile and warm footwear system for snowshoeing and snow camping in frigid conditions.
An overboot is an important component of a winter footwear system for snowshoe travel and winter camping in frigid temperatures. In our Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel project (to be published soon), we found the combination of the Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot, Simple Slipper, and Camp Bootie to be the most versatile combination we tested. The “TR” stands for trail runner, and yes, this system is based on a lightweight mesh trail running shoe. How is it possible to wear a trail running shoe for cold temperature snow travel and snow camping?

The Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot (left) weighs 17 ounces/pair and has a trim fit to wear over a trail running shoe or light insulated boot and moderate leg insulation. The Simple Slipper (right) is a 3-millimeter thick zippered neoprene bootie that weighs 9.8 ounces/pair. Weights are for overboots and booties to fit a size 12 shoe.
The TR Overboot is specifically designed for cold weather snow travel and snow camping. The foot section has a no-slip rubber dot outsole and 3 millimeter thick neoprene insulation with a durable ribbed nylon face. The gaiter section is uncoated stretch Cordura nylon on the sides and coated Cordura nylon on the back. It has a full-height 1-inch wide Velcro closure, with a snap and drawcord at the top. Inside, there is a removable 10-millimeter thick closed-cell foam insole to provide underfoot insulation.
The Simple Slipper is made of the same 3-millimeter neoprene as the TR Overboot foot section. The seams are glued and stitched for strength and water-resistance. It has a hefty YKK zipper that is not waterproof.
The Light Energy TR is more than an overboot, its part of a footwear system designed for extreme warmth, thus the name “Forty Below”. The system consists of the TR overboot (or one of Forty Below’s other overboot models), the Simple Slipper, and the Synthetic Fill Camp Bootie. The components can be worn separately, and when needed, all worn at the same time.

An efficient footwear system utilizing the Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot and a trail running shoe would consist of (from left to right) a liner sock, heavy wool sock, mesh trail running shoe, Simple Slipper neoprene bootie, closed-cell foam underfoot insulation, and TR Overboot. In camp the Synthetic Fill Camp Bootie (far right) can be worn in the overboot, or the Simple Slipper plus the Camp Bootie worn in the overboot.

A footwear system for really cold temperatures utilizing the TR Overboot would substitute a light insulated boot (Kamik Force boot shown), 6-millimeter neoprene bootie (Crescent Moon bootie shown), in the TR Overboot. The TR Overboot has enough room inside to wear all of the components shown.
We did an immersion test at home to determine how water-resistant the TR Overboot and Simple Slipper are. We stuffed each with cotton T-shirts and a weight and immersed them in a pan of water up to their closure for an hour. The Simple Slipper did not wet through the fabric or seams to the inside, but the outside fabric absorbed quite a bit of water (1.8 ounces/bootie in the lower section below the zipper). We also observed that water readily leaked in through the zipper. The TR Overboot leaked a lot through the bottom seam and we found soaked T-shirts and standing water inside. The lower part of the overboot absorbed 2.6 ounces of water/overboot.

We tested the Forty Below Light Energy footwear system over two winters in a variety of conditions while snowshoeing and snow camping.
The Forty Below footwear system was designed for cold weather snowshoeing and snow camping, where temperatures stay well below freezing, and in those conditions this system really shines. Wearing the Simple Slipper inside the TR Overboot under those conditions, we had no moisture enter at all, and condensation was minimal in our socks and shoes. Our feet stayed warm all day, and it was easy to change socks at the end of the day and continue wearing the system, with the addition of the Synthetic Fill Camp Booties.
After snowshoeing all day in wet snow wearing the TR Overboot and Simple Slipper we found some dampness inside the overboot from water leaking in through the bottom seam, but it did not enter the Simple Slipper. This agrees with the results of our immersion test at home, and the amount of leakage in the field was less than we expected. Under higher exertion, we also found a fair amount of moisture from sweat accumulated in our socks. In camp, it was easy to change to dry socks, but the TR Overboot was too damp to wear our camp booties inside them. Rather, we wore a Tyvek bootie over our camp booties while drying out the overboots.
Since the neoprene fabric itself is mostly waterproof (specifically it doesn’t wet through, but the outside fabric absorbs water), we suggest gluing the bottom seam of the overboot and using a water-resistant zipper (like the Ri Ri AquaZip) instead of the Velcro closure to create a more water-resistant foot section of the overboot. Besides, we are not real fond of Velcro closures because the Velcro hook side can easily damage other fabrics.

We found the TR Overboot and Simple Slipper to be sufficiently durable to handle the abrasion of snowshoe bindings and rivets. The sole of the overboot is a durable rubber dot material that does not slip on snow, and the neoprene in the foot section of the overboot and Simple Slipper has a ribbed nylon face fabric that is also very durable.
Since the Simple Slippers did not leak through in our immersion test, we tried snowshoeing in them with a gaiter to keep snow from entering through the top. That system was very lightweight and kept our feet warm and dry in dry snow (as long as we kept moving), but in wet snow the booties absorbed quite a bit of water in their outer fabric and leaked some through the coarse zipper.

(Left photo) The Simple Slipper neoprene bootie and a gaiter can be worn over a trail runner for snowshoeing in dryer snow, but not in wet snow. (Right photo) In extreme cold on the trail or in camp, a trail running shoe and Simple Slipper can be worn inside the Forty Below Synthetic Fill Camp Bootie and TR overboot for extra warmth.
Overall, we were very pleased with the performance and versatility of the Forty Below Light Energy Overboot and Simple Slipper, separately or in combination. It is especially suited for cold and frigid conditions where there is no liquid water to enter through the seams or closures. The Forty Below three-part system (overboot, neoprene bootie, and camp bootie) is all that is needed (except perhaps vapor barrier socks in extremely cold conditions) to keep feet warm and dry while spending days out in the snow.
Actually, the Light Energy TR Overboot is just the first of a suite of new lightweight overboots that Forty Below will offer. All will have a non-slip rubber dot outsole, breathable stretch Cordura on the sides, waterproof Cordura on the back to shed snow, a full-length Velcro closure, and a removable closed-cell foam insert.
The MT model designed for mountaineering will be coming in summer 2007. It will be sized for mountaineering boots in the foot section and heavier insulation in the leg section, and will have reinforcements in the toe and heel areas to accommodate a range of step-in crampon bindings.
The SL model, arriving in winter 2007, will be a shell overboot with no built-in insulation. The estimated weight is 6-9 ounces/pair. It will have a trimmer fit for trail running shoes like the TR model, and will also accommodate the Simple Slipper and Synthetic Fill Camp Bootie to provide a complete footwear system for snowshoeing and snow camping.
The Forty Below XC model will also come out in winter 2007 and will be designed for use with backcountry ski boots, including the ability to accommodate different XC bindings.
High-tech gear to keep your feet dry and warm is useless without the proper knowledge on how to use it, and that’s especially true for lightweight footwear in cold and wet conditions.

Winter snow needn’t slow us down! Just don the right footwear, layer up, and go snow hiking or snowshoeing. It’s quiet and peaceful out there, and it’s great exercise!
The issue of cold feet has been with us since the time of the caveman – a book could easily be written on the subject. With all the high-tech gear available today, you would think that the problem might have disappeared, but it hasn’t. Keeping your feet dry and warm during outdoor pursuits in snow and slop requires:
The purpose of this article is to identify combinations of lightweight footwear that effectively keep feet dry and warm during active snow travel during any season of the year.
What do we mean by “lightweight footwear systems”? Let us state right up front that Backpacking Light favors the use of lightweight trail running shoes or boots for hiking and backpacking, even in the snow. This will seem unorthodox to many traditionalists who warn of frostbite, but we do it and it works for us. Taking one pound off our feet is equivalent to taking 6.4 pounds off our backs (according to US Army research), and there is a huge opportunity to save weight from our winter footwear. Our lightweight footwear systems are combinations of the lightest shoes, insoles, socks, vapor barriers, overboots, and gaiters (everything on or around the foot) adapted to specific activities, exertion levels, and conditions. Read on to understand how these footwear components work together to save weight.
What do we mean by “snow travel”? Most Backpacking Light members are not plodders; our objective is to go light and go far. We can encounter snow somewhere in any season of the year, so we can’t let snow slow us down. When we sink in less than a foot, we can walk in it; when we sink in deeper we can don lightweight snowshoes and keep going. Winter snow hiking and snowshoeing is inspirational and a great workout. In warmer weather, thru-hikers walk on top of cement-like snowpack in mountain sections of trails like the PCT.
We encounter a lot of different conditions that require different gear and techniques. Following are the environmental and logistical conditions that this article addresses. (Contributed by master thru-hiker Andrew Skurka, who completed a 385 mile hike across northern Minnesota in January 2007.)
Trip Length
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Temperatures
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Snow Composition
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Snow Depth
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Snow Dispersion
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In this article we will cover lightweight footwear systems appropriate for active snowshoeing and snow hiking in warm, cold, and frigid conditions. We consider slightly heavier options (like insulated boots and overboots) for conditions where they are needed, and for hikers who want more foot protection and warmth. Although backcountry skiers often use specialized boots, many of the footwear components and techniques discussed here are applicable to keep feet dry and warm while skiing too. We will also consider coordinating a daytime snow travel footwear system with a snow camping footwear system to keep overall weight to a minimum.
Specifically we address:
The best gear won’t work without the proper knowledge. In this article we discuss the principles and techniques associated with keeping your feet dry and warm – the knowledge base that an active outdoor enthusiast should have in order to maintain warmth, choose appropriate gear, and use it wisely. Herein we round up and discuss all the factors that are important for keeping feet dry and warm. This will include physiological factors, physical factors, techniques, tips, and tricks.
Insulation doesn’t create heat, but conserves it. For many of us, there isn’t much heat in our feet to be conserved! In cold and frigid weather we want to maintain a boundary layer of warm, moist air next to our skin (which is the normal condition), but we don’t want water pooling against our skin. Insulation works by trapping air (which is a poor heat conductor) to keep body heat from escaping. We layer our footwear (base layer, insulation layer(s), shell layer) the same way we layer upper body clothing, so we have the ability to adjust the amount of insulation that is needed.
Cotton kills! Cotton is hydrophilic (water loving) and absorbs three times more moisture (from sweat) than most synthetic fibers, it doesn’t insulate when it’s wet, and it takes 14 times longer to dry compared to synthetic fibers. Water is a good heat conductor, so when your socks and feet get damp they will lose heat up to 25 times faster than when dry. If your exertion level is high enough, it is possible to generate enough heat to warm up wet shoes and socks, but look out when you stop – the water inside your shoes will quickly sap that warmth and you will have frozen feet. Despite their advantages, wet synthetic socks have the same effect as cotton; they conduct heat away from your feet, creating a dangerous situation when you stop.

Cotton kills! Compared to wool or synthetics, it absorbs more water, doesn’t insulate when wet, takes much longer to dry, and is more likely to cause blisters.
Furthermore, when cotton gets wet it loses its shape and bunches. Cotton’s friction point also increases when it gets wet, so when we combine those two factors we have a recipe for disabling blisters. Wet feet + friction = blisters.
To illustrate the point that water is a good heat conductor, but air is not, consider this example: if the air temperature is 60 °F, you can feel quite comfortable with a long-sleeved base layer on, but if you jump into a swimming pool of 60 °F water, it feels like ice water and you can’t stay in very long. That’s because dry clothing traps air next to the skin to insulate it, but water next to the skin rapidly conducts heat away.

The best cold weather sock system is a merino wool insulating sock worn over a wicking liner sock. Pictured are the Bridgedale Summit sock worn over the Seirus Outlast liner sock.
The skin on our feet is constantly giving off insensible perspiration to stay moist, and it releases sweat (as much as 1 pint per foot per day) to cool off when we overheat. Technical fabrics pull the sweat off the skin quickly and wick it to outer layers where it can be dispersed. It’s important to wear a hydrophobic wicking liner sock (Coolmax, Thermax, Outlast) next to your skin to pull moisture away. They will keep your skin dryer so your feet can retain their heat better and stay warmer longer. Also, they will help you avoid blisters because the friction point of these synthetics actually decreases as they become wet.
Wool socks are ideal for cold conditions, especially merino wool socks worn with a wicking liner sock. Wool has the natural ability to absorb moisture and still continue to insulate, so wool socks can keep your feet warm even when damp. It is the only fabric, natural or synthetic, that can do that. If you wear waterproof shoes, wool socks are imperative (more on that later). For more information on the comparative properties of wool and synthetic fabrics, read Comfort and Moisture Transport in Lightweight Wool and Synthetic Base Layers.
Further, US Army studies have found that combining technical socks with highly breathable mesh shoes greatly improved the wicking process. The sock and shoe work together to help transport moisture from skin surfaces to the outside.
Wearing more flexible shoes allows us to flex our feet more, which generates more metabolic heat and encourages the circulation of warm blood through our feet. In cold weather, it’s a good practice to take only short breaks and eat on the fly. If you do stop for a longer break add extra insulation layers to your head, upper body, and feet (if possible).
Tight socks restrict warm blood flow by compressing the surface capillaries, so it’s important that socks fit comfortably. If you wear two pairs of socks or a vapor barrier sock, it’s important that the additional layers are sized large enough so they are not tight. A snug fit is ok, but not a tight one.
Similarly, the shoes you wear for cold weather hiking need to have extra room for thicker socks and multiple layers. Many experienced snow travelers have dedicated shoes that are one to one and a half sizes larger than their normal shoe size. It’s very important that winter footwear fits loose so it doesn’t restrict circulation. A snug fit may be ok, but you should be able to wiggle your toes within your shoes.

A lightweight fast-drying shoe like the Timberland Delerion Pro can be used for snowshoeing and snow hiking under the right conditions.
The combination of breathable shoes and technical socks is perfect when hiking or running on hardpack snow in cold weather or thru-hiking over snow drifts in mountain sections. The principle is the same as with warm weather hiking: your feet are better off in lightweight highly breathable shoes that allow perspiration to escape and that dry quickly as you keep moving.
However, in loose snow or slop, breathable shoes will get sopping wet. Many adventure racers don’t mind that because their high exertion level keeps their feet warm, and breathable shoes shed water faster. Alternatively, a vapor barrier sock or Gore-Tex sock (discussed later) can be worn inside a breathable shoe to keep your feet warm while still retaining the benefits of a breathable shoe. In cold weather though, when you stop, you have to get the wet shoes off and put on something dry and warm, or you end up with two blocks of ice.
If you spend a lot of time hiking in snow, rain, or slop then waterproof/breathable shoes are a good choice. “Waterproof” shoes will often have a Gore-Tex XCR bootie inside them, but many manufacturers offer proprietary membranes, and an eVENT liner is available in a few shoe models.
The Gore-Tex XCR liner used in footwear has rightfully earned its status as de facto standard. Gore-Tex guarantees it to be waterproof, and most of the time it is. Each shoe manufacturer licensed to use the Gore-Tex XCR membrane in their footwear must submit their shoes to Gore for testing to ensure they perform properly. Meeting Gore’s tests means they are “Guaranteed to Keep You Dry.” If a Gore-Tex shoe leaks, you can (theoretically) return it a retailer for a replacement.

Waterproof/breathable shoes abound! Every shoe manufacturer offers “waterproof” shoes and/or boots of various types. Shoes with a Gore-Tex XCR liner like the Merrell Chameleon Wrap Gore-Tex XCR (left) are “Guaranteed to Keep You Dry.” The Keen Ochoco (right) has an eVENT liner.
We found that the Gore-Tex XCR technology fundamentally works to keep your feet dry, but it performs best under certain conditions. Although this membrane (and other waterproof/breathable technologies) are claimed to be “breathable,” there are definite limits to the amount of moisture (sweat) they will export from the inside of the shoe. Gore-Tex’s goal is to balance waterproofness, durability, and breathability. However, breathability is compromised by the other two factors (which is unavoidable to a large extent), so the bottom line is that breathability is limited. The result is that these shoes are waterproof from the outside in, and (to some extent) from the inside out. They are sufficiently breathable for low to moderate activity in cool and cold weather, but if your feet produce excessive amounts of sweat you will exceed the membrane’s ability to pass moisture. The outcome is that your socks accumulate moisture from your own sweat, which leads to damp socks and chilly feet when you slow down or stop. They are also slow to dry out if you don’t use a shoe dryer.
Although we have not done any testing, we would expect a waterproof/breathable trail runner to breathe better than a waterproof/breathable boot. The trail runners are constructed with a thinner, more breathable face fabric over the membrane, while boots typically cover the membrane with thicker, less permeable layers. Unfortunately, we have not had a chance to compare a shoe with a Gore-Tex XCR lining to a similar shoe with an eVENT lining. That would be an interesting comparison!
Although many users attest that waterproof/breathable shoes (especially Gore-Tex) keep their feet completely dry in the wettest of conditions, we have personally found that to be true only for shorter-term exposures to wet conditions. In longer-term exposures to really wet conditions, such as walking continuously in wet snow or wet vegetation, every waterproof/breathable shoe we have tried has wetted through enough to dampen our socks to some degree. We have measured it on several occasions by wearing a liner sock, vapor barrier sock, and an insulating sock inside the waterproof/breathable shoes or boots, plus a gaiter over the top. Since the vapor barrier sock traps any moisture from our feet sweating, any moisture in the insulating sock has come through the shoe itself. When we weighed our socks we found they had gained from 0.2 to 0.5 ounce of moisture per pair, enough for them to feel damp. The inside lining of the shoes was also noticeably damp.
Another option is to wear waterproof/breathable socks inside highly breathable mesh shoes. Gore-Tex socks and SealSkinz are good options. This can be a versatile way to create an effective waterproof/breathable footwear system, and we discuss the functionality of various waterproof/breathable socks in Part 2. These specialized socks work best if you wear a wicking liner sock or merino wool sock inside them. Wearing them against your skin feels very clammy, and is counter-productive because your skin gets damp and feet get cold easily whenever you stop.

Wearing a waterproof/breathable sock like the Rocky Gore-Tex sock (left) when needed inside of a breathable fast-drying shoe like the Salomon Tech Amphibian (right) is a versatile alternative to waterproof/breathable shoes.
When you wear technical socks, the fabric transports the moisture away from the skin where it can (ideally) be evaporated away. The reality, unless your shoes are made from highly breathable mesh, is that much of the sweat from your feet is stored in your socks. This is especially true if you use waterproof footwear. It’s especially difficult to avoid moisture accumulation in a footwear system for cold/wet conditions, and even a small amount of moisture can lead to chilly feet. Merino wool is the best foot insulation because it has the unique ability to absorb moisture between its bundles of fibers but still continue to insulate, keeping your feet warm even when damp.
We weighed our damp socks on many occasions, and find that the feelings of “dampness” and “cold toes” can be caused by only a few tenths of an ounce of moisture in a pair of socks. The most effective way to get rid of the moisture and keep your feet dry and warm is to exchange your damp socks for dry ones during the day (in warmer weather, the best approach is to take your boots and socks off and dry them out). If you are snow camping it is especially important to remove your damp footwear right away and replace it with a dry camp footwear system. If you must wear your wet shoes in camp, a good way to keep your feet warm is to put a vapor barrier layer (a plastic bag works just fine) over your dry socks before you put your wet shoes back on.
To summarize, moisture from sweat gets trapped in most shoes (especially in waterproof shoes and under high exertion), and it doesn’t take very much moisture for your feet to feel chilly. The best moisture management technique is to change socks at midday in cold weather, or air them out frequently in warmer weather.

The 6 millimeter thick neoprene Crescent Moon Bootie can be worn over the top of lightweight shoes or boots for snowshoeing in frigid weather.
It’s easy to add and remove layers to regulate our core temperature (more on that later), and we can do the same for our feet. As the temperature gets colder, we can simply add more layers over and under our feet to insulate more. Options are insulated insoles, insulating socks, gaiters, and overboots. The actual layers will depend on the type of activity and snow/wet conditions. Each layer reduces the amount of breathability, so moisture is trapped between the layers, especially if an overboot is worn.
Moisture accumulates in socks and shoes, and especially in waterproof shoes. If they are even slightly damp the next time you wear them, your feet are likely to be chilly all morning. If you are day tripping, put your shoes on a shoe dryer overnight to be sure they are thoroughly dry. If you are snow camping, put your shoes and socks inside your jacket or sleeping bag to dry them out as much as possible. It helps a lot to warm your socks and shoes before you put them on, which makes it easier for your feet to keep them warm.
The use of vapor barrier socks is a complex subject. We will explain the principles here and cover the options in Part 2. Here are a few key points about using vapor barrier socks:
Use them only in frigid temperatures (less than 25 °F). In warmer temperatures, the feet sweat too much with a vapor barrier on, and the disadvantages outweigh the advantages
Don’t confuse a vapor barrier sock with a waterproof/breathable sock, such as a Gore-Tex sock; they function differently. But there are some intermediates that cause confusion, which we explain in Part 2.
If you have backpacked wearing a waterproof non-breathable rain jacket, you have already experienced a vapor barrier! The moisture condensation on the inside is testimony to how well they work as a vapor barrier, but a waterproof rain jacket is a very poor implementation of a vapor barrier because your clothing within can get quite damp. The concept of a vapor barrier sock is to confine the body’s own water vapor and heat production activity and utilize it to keep your feet warm, while keeping your outer insulation layer(s) dry. In this section we will unravel the mysteries of the vapor barrier and how it can be used to keep your feet warm.

A lightweight vapor barrier sock, such as this one from Integral Designs, maintains a warm humid environment next to the foot. A vapor barrier is most effective in frigid temperatures.
Our body is equipped with a very complex thermal regulatory system to maintain our body temperature at a fairly high level (which is almost tropical) and within fairly tight limits. The skin is a highly sensitive organ that likes the air temperature around it to be about 75 °F (72 °F for the hands and feet, and about 78 °F for the head and neck) and a relative humidity of about 70-80%. It releases heat and water vapor (called insensible perspiration) to maintain those conditions in the boundary layer next to our skin. When that protective boundary layer is disrupted the skin reacts to restore it. If you overheat, the sweat glands in your skin start pumping out water vapor to cool the boundary layer back to the comfort zone. If you chill, the sweat glands shut down and your body starts to shiver, again trying to restore the boundary layer to the comfort zone. A vapor barrier worn next to (or very near) the skin works because it maintains the temperature and humidity in the boundary layer within the body’s comfort zone with minimal water vapor output. A warm moist environment is warmer than a warm dry environment, and that small bit of humidity adds to our warmth.
A vapor barrier sock works best next to the skin, but wearing a smooth vapor barrier sock (such as the one shown) against the skin gives a clammy feeling. Some manufacturers recommend wearing vapor barrier socks directly against the skin, while others recommend wearing a wicking liner sock inside, and others design their socks with a fuzzy lining to make them more comfortable. Vapor barrier socks with a fuzzy lining minimize the clammy feeling, but any vapor barrier sock worn next to skin holds more moisture next to our feet, so our toes are more likely to get cold if we stop for very long. Our personal preference is to wear a liner sock, which keeps the moisture from pooling against our skin, inside the vapor barrier socks.
With non-waterproof shoes we often wear our insulating socks inside the vapor barrier because we didn’t want them to get sopping wet from outside moisture soaking in. Our socks inside the vapor barrier gradually got damp (from sweat), but our feet stay warm all day as long as we keep moving. Wearing a vapor barrier does not eliminate the need to change socks to remove moisture from our shoes, but it is relatively easy to dry out damp socks compared to sopping wet socks. Alternatively, with non-waterproof shoes, one could wear a double vapor barrier system to keep insulating socks dry. This would consist of a liner sock, vapor barrier sock, insulating sock, and another vapor barrier sock.

The most comfortable vapor barrier layering system (left to right) is a liner sock next to the foot, then a vapor barrier sock, then an insulating merino wool sock over that. Pictured (left to right) are the Seirus Outlast Liner Sock, RBH Designs Vapr Thrm Liner Sock, and Thorlo Mountaineering Sock. With an open mesh (non-waterproof) shoe, it’s necessary to put the insulating sock inside the vapor barrier sock. In that situation, consider wearing a waterproof/breathable sock instead of a vapor barrier sock.
Again, we want to emphasize that vapor barrier socks work best at temperatures below about 25 °F. The colder it is, the better a vapor barrier works. At those low temperatures a vapor barrier will dramatically decrease the amount of insulation you need to keep your feet warm. However, in warmer temperatures and under high exertion, it’s easy for your feet to overheat and sweat profusely, making a vapor barrier system very uncomfortable (and redundant).
If you wear waterproof/breathable shoes or boots, you are already using a vapor barrier system, albeit an imperfect one because the insulating layer is inside the vapor barrier where it will accumulate moisture. Think about it – most waterproof/breathable membranes have limited breathability, and in most shoe/boot constructions the waterproof/breathable liner is covered by impervious outer layers – so how can they breathe? Only a construction consisting of a waterproof/breathable lining covered by a porous fabric (e.g., a waterproof/breathable trail running shoe) will actually breathe. The rest function like a vapor barrier, holding much of the perspiration from your feet inside your shoes. That’s why it makes no sense to wear waterproof/breathable shoes in warm dry weather.
However, in frigid temperatures a good trick is to wear a vapor barrier sock inside of a waterproof/breathable shoe. This will keep your feet warm with a minimum of insulation layers, and it keeps moisture out of the lining of the shoe. It’s also very versatile because you can remove the vapor barrier sock in warmer temperatures and at higher exertion levels when it’s not needed, and you can wear the vapor barrier socks in your sleeping bag to keep your feet warmer.
Maintaining your core temperature is a balancing act in which you must keep warm without overheating, sweating, and then chilling. In our experience, we are most comfortable “on the cool side of warm.” However, different people require different amounts of insulation to maintain that comfort. Men and women in particular may need to use different layering techniques; Will can be quite comfortable wearing a windshirt over a base layer while snowshoeing, but at the same time Janet is wearing two additional layers to maintain the same degree of warmth.
The clothing you wear affects the warmth of your feet. There is a constant balancing act your body is going through to maintain a constant core temperature. As your core heats up, your body will pump the hot blood away from the core to the extremities. As the core cools down, it will pull the blood away from the extremities, and your hands and feet get cold. In people who have Raynaud’s Syndrome this process is exaggerated. The trick is to keep your core warm enough so it will continue to heat the rest of your body.

Using a layering system (base layer, insulating layer, outer shell layer) on your torso is a good way to maintain your core temperature and keep warm blood flowing to your extremities.
The best way to do this is to layer insulating clothing over your core. Wearing a thicker base layer, two base layers, or a base layer plus a vest all work well. If it is breezy or windy, an outer shell layer is necessary to control the chill factor from wind.
The key principle here is maintaining your core temperature. Simply opening or closing a shell layer, or adding or removing clothing is a good method to regulate core temperature during winter activities. The objective is to maintain core temperature so warm blood flows to the extremities. Doing nothing until your hands and feet get cold is not a good approach because it is hard to warm extremities that are already chilled. Maintaining your core temperature is a constant process requiring attention and effort.

In cold and frigid temperatures, wearing a hat and using the layering system on your head is a good way to maintain body temperature. In frigid temperatures, a balaclava and hood works the best.
First, let’s deal with the myth: “If your feet are cold, cover your head because you can lose up to 75% of your body heat through your head alone.” Yes, it’s a myth, and we believed it ourselves for many years. The head is only about 10% of the body’s surface area, and it would have to lose about 40 times more heat per unit area compared to the rest of the body for this statement to be true.
The folks at the Wilderness Medicine Institute ran an experiment on student volunteers and found the rate of heat loss is relatively the same for any exposed part of the body. A person does not lose heat significantly faster through the scalp than any other portion of the body with the same surface area. The idea that we lose heat 4000% faster through our head, because of the constant blood supply to the brain, is simply a myth.
It is still a good idea to put on a hat if your feet are cold? Yes, the need for insulation over the head in cold weather is the same as for any other part of the body. Wearing a hat or balaclava works in conjunction with torso insulation to regulate your core temperature. In practice, adding or removing headwear layers to conserve or expel heat is an effective way to adjust your core temperature.
You need to fuel the furnace (your metabolism) to produce body heat. Waiting until you’re hungry or “bonked” before you eat is not a good idea because it can lead to serious chilling when you stop. It’s better to eat steadily, taking in about 300 to 400 calories per hour (depending on the temperature and your exertion level). While some protein is good, the real fuel for keeping warm is carbohydrates with some fat. Active snow travel in cold weather is the perfect time to feast on energy bars!
Breathing cold dry air can result in a lot of water loss, so it’s best to drink plenty of water to keep the blood thin for transporting heat to your extremities. Think about the heat you are losing with each breath and each time you urinate. Replacing that heat with a hot beverage is a good way to maintain core temperature and stay hydrated, while drinking ice cold water puts more demand on your body’s metabolism to produce heat.
Each of these works against you by either constricting capillaries to reduce blood flow, or sending a flush of warmth to the skin and robbing you of the core heat you need to stay warm.
We end Part 1 with a mention of certain foot treatments that can help keep your feet warm. First, if you are preparing for a high exertion activity, you can slather your feet with an anti-perspirant to reduce sweating. This also works well when you wear a vapor barrier layer to reduce sweating inside the vapor barrier.
Another approach is to sprinkle a little cayenne pepper inside your socks in the toe and forefoot area to stimulate capillary action. It’s very important to only use a small amount of pepper, and avoid rubbing your eyes after touching your socks containing the pepper. This cayenne pepper treatment is actually a good technique for keeping feet warm. The trick is turning off the warming effect after you have finished your activity – remove your socks, wash your feet thoroughly with soap and water, and then deactivate the pepper by thoroughly rubbing lotion into the feet.

For the times when your shoes/boots freeze up and you can’t get your feet warm, or if you normally have a difficult time keeping your feet warm, this is the solution.
Finally, we can’t overlook the wonders of chemistry, meaning foot warmers. There are many different brands of chemical foot warmers available in different sizes. When you open the package they start a slow oxidation (burn) that gives off heat. They can be put on top of the toes (outside your socks) inside the shoes, or between your shoes and booties. The warmers are supposed to last up to 6 hours, but they usually fade after about three hours. If you use one for only an hour or so, you can save it for later by sealing it tightly in a plastic bag. That will stop the oxidation process and store it temporarily so you can use it again.
If you’re expecting us to discuss battery powered insoles and socks, forget it! Our principles and techniques are limited to an organic, knowledge-based approach to keeping our feet warm, not a quick fix. Well, okay, maybe the chemical foot warmers are the exception!
Here is a re-cap of the important points in this section for keeping your feet dry and warm:
In the next two installments of this article we will explore the components of a lightweight footwear system, identify some of the best gear options, and assemble lightweight footwear systems for different activities and conditions.

Will Rietveld has BS and MS degrees in Forest Science and a PhD in Ecological Physiology and Biochemistry. He spent his entire career with the Research Division of the USDA Forest Service, where he worked as a research scientist, project manager, and national R&D program administrator.
Now retired, he lives in southern Colorado where he takes up a new career of backpacking year-round in the mountains and canyon country of the Southwest. He has been a lightweight backpacker for 40 years and an ultralight backpacker for 8 years.
Will joined the Backpacking Light staff in April 2004. For Will, gear testing and writing reviews and technical articles on outdoor gear fits in well with his passion for ultralight backpacking, and utilizes his research and writing skills from his former career.
Janet Reichl has a BS in Occupational Therapy and worked in the medical field specializing in hand therapy. She retired at the same time as Will, and also enjoys living in southern Colorado and backpacking in the mountains and canyon country of the Southwest. She has backpacked and canoe camped for 27 years and has been an ultralight backpacker for 8 years.
Janet is a professional seamstress and has made much of her own gear since she started backpacking. She is also a talented photographer and joined the Backpacking Light staff in January 2006 as Photo Editor. Janet and Will work together on gear testing and Janet provides photographic support.