Articles (2020)

Polar Wrap Toasty Feet Insole SPOTLITE REVIEW

Lightweight Insoles containing Aerogel for underfoot insulation.

Overview

Toasty Feet are insulated with Aerogel, which was developed by Aspen Aerogels for NASA, and is claimed to have the highest thermal insulation value of any solid material available. Their website claims an R-Value per inch for Aerogel of about 12, compared to about 4 for Thinsulate and 2.5 for fiberglass. The Toasty Feet Insole reduces conductive heat loss from the bottom of the foot. So, how do these insoles insulate when you are standing on them?

Aerogel is a silicon-based solid with a porous, sponge-like structure in which 99.8% of the volume is empty space. It’s 1000 times less dense than glass, which is another silicon-based solid. Aerogel is not like conventional foams, but is a special porous material with extreme microporosity on a micron scale. The individual pores are only a few nanometers in size. A nanometer is one billionth of a meter. Aerogel’s insulating power is not dependent on loft. For example, the average sized adult exerts a force of 16-17 psi on a insole, which would result in a significant loss of thermal performance of a closed-cell foam insole, but an insole containing Aerogel is unaffected by pressure.

Polar Wrap Toasty Feet Insole SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
This is similar to the demo for Toasty Feet Insoles that Polar Wrap has at the Outdoor Retailer Show. The thin insole containing Aerogel insulates a foot from -106 °F dry ice. The normal foot temperature is 72 °F.

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The Toast Feet Insole contains Aerogel, developed for NASA, and claimed to have the highest thermal insulation (R-Value/inch = 12) of any solid material available.

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A disk of Aerogel (right) is translucent and feels weightless. The Aerogel inside the Toasty Feet is a powder imbedded in the core of the insole (left).

To put Aerogel in an insole, Polar Wrap infuses it as a powder into a carbon-based fabric. So how does it insulate if it’s a powder? The answer is Aerogel is a nanotechnology as explained above – each particle has nanopores (nanometer sized pores) containing air, so the dead air space is there to provide insulation.

The basic Toasty Feet model is a flat insole with a dimpled polyester upper fabric and smooth neoprene lower surface. It does not provide arch support and zonal padding like many replacement footbeds for hiking shoes. Its “sole” purpose seems to be padding and insulation. Cushioned, arch support, and magnetic models, all containing Aerogel, are available.

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The top surface of the basic Toasty Feet Insole is dimpled and the lower surface is smooth. Three sizes are available for men, women, and kids respectively; each one is trim-to-fit (right).

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We tested the Toasty Feet basic insoles in many different types of footwear as part of our Lightweight Footwear for Snow Travel project. We found them to be very light (2.3 ounces/pair for the men’s model and 1.8 ounces/pair for the women’s model) and noticeably warm. They did their job well, namely keeping the bottom of our feet warm.

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The downside of the Toasty Feet Insoles is they are not very durable. Although the bottom is claimed to be neoprene, which is a very durable fabric, it does not appear to be neoprene at all. The patch pulled out of the left insole was from some adhesive in the bottom of a shoe that stuck to the insole. The right insole is cracked around the periphery and the Aerogel is leaking out.

We also note that the toe area (above the first dotted line) is not insulated with Aerogel. Will did not need to trim the insoles to fit his size 12 shoes, which means the toe area was not insulated by the insole. Janet trimed hers down to a women’s size 7, so the toe area of her insoles was insulated with Aerogel.

Overall, we were pleased with the light weight and insulating performance of the Toasty Feet Insoles, but we were disappointed with their lack of durability. Also, for larger foot sizes (larger than a size 7 for both men and women), the toe area is not insulated. The Toasty Feet are a good value at $12.95.

Features and Specifications

  • Manufacturer: Polar Wrap (www.polarwrap.com)
  • Product: Toasty Feet Insole, basic model
  • Models Available: Men’s, women’s, kid’s, arch support, cushioned, and magnetic
  • Sizes: Each is one size, cut to fit
  • Features: Dimpled top surface for increased comfort and ventilation, Aerogel insulation
  • Weight: Measured weight for the men’s basic model is 2.3 oz/pair (65 g), and women’s model is 1.8 oz/pair (51 g); manufacturer specification for the men’s model is 2.7 oz/pair (77 g), and 2.1 oz/pair (60 g) for the women’s model
  • MSRP: $12.95 for the basic model; cushioned, arch support, and magnetic models are $16.95

Keen Growler Boot SPOTLITE REVIEW

Lightweight synthetic fabric waterproof boot with Primaloft insulation – perfect for active snow travel and cold weather hiking.

Overview

Although there are a lot of waterproof insulated boots on the market, it is hard to find a model that is truly lightweight. The Keen Growler is one of the lightest available, has a waterproof/breathable liner, 200-gram Primaloft insulation, and weight of 18 ounces/boot (women’s 7) and 22.2 ounces/boot (men’s 9). I evaluated it as part of our Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel project. Is it the perfect snowshoeing and snow hiking boot?

Keen Growler Boot SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
The Keen Growler has a waterproof/breathable lining, 200-gram Primaloft insulation, and weighs just 16.1 ounces/boot (measured weight, women’s 6.5).

The first time I wore the Keen Growler for snowshoeing, I wore heavy wool socks in them that were too thick and I had a burning feeling in my toe area. I took the insoles out and the problem went away. Since then, I have worn medium weight wool socks inside the Growler with thin SuperFeet insoles and they have been very comfortable. The toe box is fairly wide to accommodate wider feet and thicker socks.

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The Growler is very flexible (left), which helps to keep feet warm in cold weather. Their open tread (right) gets good traction in snow and cleans out well.

Since that first trip I have worn the Growler for snowshoeing, snow hiking, and canyon hiking where there were frequent stream crossings, and I love them. My feet stay dry, even when wading in water or snowshoeing in wet snow. Keen’s “patented waterproof technology” performed as well as Gore-Tex XCR lined shoes I have worn for hiking. I realize these are insulated boots intended for winter sports, but I did find them comfortable to hike in at much warmer temperatures.

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I wore the Keen Growler while snowshoeing, snow hiking, and late winter wet canyon hiking and found them to be dry, warm, and comfortable over a broader temperature range than expected.

I received the boots for review in late winter, so I was not able to test them in really cold temperatures, but they are rated to -25 F. I know I can wear them with an insulated overboot over them if I need extra warmth, so I would not be afraid to wear them in really cold temperatures or for winter camping.

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The Growlers also worked well for wet canyon hiking in late winter. The air temperature was warm, but there was still ice in the canyons. It was really nice to just walk through the cold water rather than having to avoid getting my boots wet. My feet stayed perfectly dry, and the boots themselves did not absorb any water.

Overall, I am very pleased with the fit, comfort, warmth, and dryness of the Growler and highly recommend it for active snow travel.

Features and Specifications

  • Manufacturer: Keen Footwear, LLC (www.keenfootwear.com)
  • Model: Growler
  • Sizes: Men’s 7-14, women’s 5-11
  • Insulation: 200-gram Primaloft
  • Features: Dual density compression-molded EVA midsole, rubber toe bumper, non-marking rubber outsole, quick draw lace capture, Keen patented waterproof technology
  • Weight: Measured weight women’s 6.5 16.1 oz/boot (456 g); manufacturer specification women’s 7 18 oz/boot (510 g), men’s 9 22.2 oz/boot (629 g)
  • MSRP: $124.99

Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot and Simple Slipper SPOTLITE REVIEW

An extremely versatile and warm footwear system for snowshoeing and snow camping in frigid conditions.

Overview

An overboot is an important component of a winter footwear system for snowshoe travel and winter camping in frigid temperatures. In our Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel project (to be published soon), we found the combination of the Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot, Simple Slipper, and Camp Bootie to be the most versatile combination we tested. The “TR” stands for trail runner, and yes, this system is based on a lightweight mesh trail running shoe. How is it possible to wear a trail running shoe for cold temperature snow travel and snow camping?

Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot and Simple Slipper SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
The Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot (left) weighs 17 ounces/pair and has a trim fit to wear over a trail running shoe or light insulated boot and moderate leg insulation. The Simple Slipper (right) is a 3-millimeter thick zippered neoprene bootie that weighs 9.8 ounces/pair. Weights are for overboots and booties to fit a size 12 shoe.

The TR Overboot is specifically designed for cold weather snow travel and snow camping. The foot section has a no-slip rubber dot outsole and 3 millimeter thick neoprene insulation with a durable ribbed nylon face. The gaiter section is uncoated stretch Cordura nylon on the sides and coated Cordura nylon on the back. It has a full-height 1-inch wide Velcro closure, with a snap and drawcord at the top. Inside, there is a removable 10-millimeter thick closed-cell foam insole to provide underfoot insulation.

The Simple Slipper is made of the same 3-millimeter neoprene as the TR Overboot foot section. The seams are glued and stitched for strength and water-resistance. It has a hefty YKK zipper that is not waterproof.

The Light Energy TR is more than an overboot, its part of a footwear system designed for extreme warmth, thus the name “Forty Below”. The system consists of the TR overboot (or one of Forty Below’s other overboot models), the Simple Slipper, and the Synthetic Fill Camp Bootie. The components can be worn separately, and when needed, all worn at the same time.

Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot and Simple Slipper SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
An efficient footwear system utilizing the Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot and a trail running shoe would consist of (from left to right) a liner sock, heavy wool sock, mesh trail running shoe, Simple Slipper neoprene bootie, closed-cell foam underfoot insulation, and TR Overboot. In camp the Synthetic Fill Camp Bootie (far right) can be worn in the overboot, or the Simple Slipper plus the Camp Bootie worn in the overboot.

Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot and Simple Slipper SPOTLITE REVIEW - 3
A footwear system for really cold temperatures utilizing the TR Overboot would substitute a light insulated boot (Kamik Force boot shown), 6-millimeter neoprene bootie (Crescent Moon bootie shown), in the TR Overboot. The TR Overboot has enough room inside to wear all of the components shown.

We did an immersion test at home to determine how water-resistant the TR Overboot and Simple Slipper are. We stuffed each with cotton T-shirts and a weight and immersed them in a pan of water up to their closure for an hour. The Simple Slipper did not wet through the fabric or seams to the inside, but the outside fabric absorbed quite a bit of water (1.8 ounces/bootie in the lower section below the zipper). We also observed that water readily leaked in through the zipper. The TR Overboot leaked a lot through the bottom seam and we found soaked T-shirts and standing water inside. The lower part of the overboot absorbed 2.6 ounces of water/overboot.

Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot and Simple Slipper SPOTLITE REVIEW - 4
We tested the Forty Below Light Energy footwear system over two winters in a variety of conditions while snowshoeing and snow camping.

The Forty Below footwear system was designed for cold weather snowshoeing and snow camping, where temperatures stay well below freezing, and in those conditions this system really shines. Wearing the Simple Slipper inside the TR Overboot under those conditions, we had no moisture enter at all, and condensation was minimal in our socks and shoes. Our feet stayed warm all day, and it was easy to change socks at the end of the day and continue wearing the system, with the addition of the Synthetic Fill Camp Booties.

After snowshoeing all day in wet snow wearing the TR Overboot and Simple Slipper we found some dampness inside the overboot from water leaking in through the bottom seam, but it did not enter the Simple Slipper. This agrees with the results of our immersion test at home, and the amount of leakage in the field was less than we expected. Under higher exertion, we also found a fair amount of moisture from sweat accumulated in our socks. In camp, it was easy to change to dry socks, but the TR Overboot was too damp to wear our camp booties inside them. Rather, we wore a Tyvek bootie over our camp booties while drying out the overboots.

Since the neoprene fabric itself is mostly waterproof (specifically it doesn’t wet through, but the outside fabric absorbs water), we suggest gluing the bottom seam of the overboot and using a water-resistant zipper (like the Ri Ri AquaZip) instead of the Velcro closure to create a more water-resistant foot section of the overboot. Besides, we are not real fond of Velcro closures because the Velcro hook side can easily damage other fabrics.

Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot and Simple Slipper SPOTLITE REVIEW - 5
We found the TR Overboot and Simple Slipper to be sufficiently durable to handle the abrasion of snowshoe bindings and rivets. The sole of the overboot is a durable rubber dot material that does not slip on snow, and the neoprene in the foot section of the overboot and Simple Slipper has a ribbed nylon face fabric that is also very durable.

Since the Simple Slippers did not leak through in our immersion test, we tried snowshoeing in them with a gaiter to keep snow from entering through the top. That system was very lightweight and kept our feet warm and dry in dry snow (as long as we kept moving), but in wet snow the booties absorbed quite a bit of water in their outer fabric and leaked some through the coarse zipper.

Forty Below Light Energy TR Overboot and Simple Slipper SPOTLITE REVIEW - 6
(Left photo) The Simple Slipper neoprene bootie and a gaiter can be worn over a trail runner for snowshoeing in dryer snow, but not in wet snow. (Right photo) In extreme cold on the trail or in camp, a trail running shoe and Simple Slipper can be worn inside the Forty Below Synthetic Fill Camp Bootie and TR overboot for extra warmth.

Overall, we were very pleased with the performance and versatility of the Forty Below Light Energy Overboot and Simple Slipper, separately or in combination. It is especially suited for cold and frigid conditions where there is no liquid water to enter through the seams or closures. The Forty Below three-part system (overboot, neoprene bootie, and camp bootie) is all that is needed (except perhaps vapor barrier socks in extremely cold conditions) to keep feet warm and dry while spending days out in the snow.

Actually, the Light Energy TR Overboot is just the first of a suite of new lightweight overboots that Forty Below will offer. All will have a non-slip rubber dot outsole, breathable stretch Cordura on the sides, waterproof Cordura on the back to shed snow, a full-length Velcro closure, and a removable closed-cell foam insert.

The MT model designed for mountaineering will be coming in summer 2007. It will be sized for mountaineering boots in the foot section and heavier insulation in the leg section, and will have reinforcements in the toe and heel areas to accommodate a range of step-in crampon bindings.

The SL model, arriving in winter 2007, will be a shell overboot with no built-in insulation. The estimated weight is 6-9 ounces/pair. It will have a trimmer fit for trail running shoes like the TR model, and will also accommodate the Simple Slipper and Synthetic Fill Camp Bootie to provide a complete footwear system for snowshoeing and snow camping.

The Forty Below XC model will also come out in winter 2007 and will be designed for use with backcountry ski boots, including the ability to accommodate different XC bindings.

Features and Specifications

  • Manufacturer: Forty Below (www.40below.com)
  • Sizes: XS-XXL to fit from women’s 4 to men’s 16, plus custom sizes available on request (the new overboots will be made upon order, which will require about 4-6 weeks for delivery)
  • Insulation: 3 millimeter nylon-faced neoprene foam
  • Fabric: TR Overboot sole is rubber dot material, sides are stretch uncoated Cordura nylon, back is coated Cordura nylon; Simple Slippers are 3 mm nylon covered neoprene foam
  • Features: TR Overboot has a non-slip sole, insulated foot section, durable Cordura nylon gaiter section, full-height 1 inch wide Velcro closure, snap and drawcord at the top, removable 10 mm thick closed-cell foam inserts; Simple Slippers have glued/stitched seams and a heavy duty YKK zipper
  • Weight: Measured weight of the TR Overboot in size XL is 17 oz/pair (482 g); manufacturer specification 16 oz/pair (454 g) for size Large; measured weight of the Simple Slipper in size XL is 9.8 oz/pair (278 g), manufacturer specification 8 oz/pair (227 g) for size Large
  • MSRP: Light Energy TR Overboot $129.95, Simple Slipper $59.95

Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel Part 1: Principles and Techniques for Keeping Feet Dry and Warm

High-tech gear to keep your feet dry and warm is useless without the proper knowledge on how to use it, and that’s especially true for lightweight footwear in cold and wet conditions.

Overview

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Winter snow needn’t slow us down! Just don the right footwear, layer up, and go snow hiking or snowshoeing. It’s quiet and peaceful out there, and it’s great exercise!

The issue of cold feet has been with us since the time of the caveman – a book could easily be written on the subject. With all the high-tech gear available today, you would think that the problem might have disappeared, but it hasn’t. Keeping your feet dry and warm during outdoor pursuits in snow and slop requires:

  • A basic knowledge of human physiology, physical factors, and gear function
  • Awareness of footwear options and how different components interact as a system
  • Skill in assembling appropriate footwear systems for different conditions

The purpose of this article is to identify combinations of lightweight footwear that effectively keep feet dry and warm during active snow travel during any season of the year.

What do we mean by “lightweight footwear systems”? Let us state right up front that Backpacking Light favors the use of lightweight trail running shoes or boots for hiking and backpacking, even in the snow. This will seem unorthodox to many traditionalists who warn of frostbite, but we do it and it works for us. Taking one pound off our feet is equivalent to taking 6.4 pounds off our backs (according to US Army research), and there is a huge opportunity to save weight from our winter footwear. Our lightweight footwear systems are combinations of the lightest shoes, insoles, socks, vapor barriers, overboots, and gaiters (everything on or around the foot) adapted to specific activities, exertion levels, and conditions. Read on to understand how these footwear components work together to save weight.

What do we mean by “snow travel”? Most Backpacking Light members are not plodders; our objective is to go light and go far. We can encounter snow somewhere in any season of the year, so we can’t let snow slow us down. When we sink in less than a foot, we can walk in it; when we sink in deeper we can don lightweight snowshoes and keep going. Winter snow hiking and snowshoeing is inspirational and a great workout. In warmer weather, thru-hikers walk on top of cement-like snowpack in mountain sections of trails like the PCT.

We encounter a lot of different conditions that require different gear and techniques. Following are the environmental and logistical conditions that this article addresses. (Contributed by master thru-hiker Andrew Skurka, who completed a 385 mile hike across northern Minnesota in January 2007.)

Trip Length

  • Short-Term – day hikes or quick overnights, when you are willing to accept more discomfort, take on more risk, and disregard problems than you might encounter on longer trips
  • Long-Term – anything more than 4-5 nights, where you can’t ignore continual discomfort or the consistent performance decline of your systems
Temperatures

  • Warm – nights above or just below freezing and days in the 40’s or 50’s F – common fall and spring weather
  • Cold – nights in the 10’s F and days below freezing or just above (at the very heat of the day)
  • Frigid – nights well below 0 °F and days not getting out of the teens
Snow Composition

  • Cement – springtime in the high country, particularly in the Sierra, when you can just about walk on the top of it with very little sinking in
  • Crusty – snow that is subjected to regular freezes and thaws
  • Powder – soft snow at high elevations and/or northern latitudes where it continues to snow well into the spring
  • Wet – sun-warmed new or old snow that really gets shoes/feet wet
Snow Depth

  • Dusting – less than 0.5 inch
  • Notable – enough snow that it could get your shoes/feet wet, but not enough to warrant snowshoes
  • Snowshoe-Worthy – depending on the snow composition, snow depth needs to be about 12 inches or more
Snow Dispersion

  • Scattered – pockets of it here and there – at the passes and in timbered areas and other protected locations
  • Continuous – snow, snow, everywhere

In this article we will cover lightweight footwear systems appropriate for active snowshoeing and snow hiking in warm, cold, and frigid conditions. We consider slightly heavier options (like insulated boots and overboots) for conditions where they are needed, and for hikers who want more foot protection and warmth. Although backcountry skiers often use specialized boots, many of the footwear components and techniques discussed here are applicable to keep feet dry and warm while skiing too. We will also consider coordinating a daytime snow travel footwear system with a snow camping footwear system to keep overall weight to a minimum.

Specifically we address:

Introduction to Part 1

The best gear won’t work without the proper knowledge. In this article we discuss the principles and techniques associated with keeping your feet dry and warm – the knowledge base that an active outdoor enthusiast should have in order to maintain warmth, choose appropriate gear, and use it wisely. Herein we round up and discuss all the factors that are important for keeping feet dry and warm. This will include physiological factors, physical factors, techniques, tips, and tricks.

Principles and Techniques for Keeping Feet Dry and Warm

Understand Insulation

Insulation doesn’t create heat, but conserves it. For many of us, there isn’t much heat in our feet to be conserved! In cold and frigid weather we want to maintain a boundary layer of warm, moist air next to our skin (which is the normal condition), but we don’t want water pooling against our skin. Insulation works by trapping air (which is a poor heat conductor) to keep body heat from escaping. We layer our footwear (base layer, insulation layer(s), shell layer) the same way we layer upper body clothing, so we have the ability to adjust the amount of insulation that is needed.

Anything but Cotton (ABC)

Cotton kills! Cotton is hydrophilic (water loving) and absorbs three times more moisture (from sweat) than most synthetic fibers, it doesn’t insulate when it’s wet, and it takes 14 times longer to dry compared to synthetic fibers. Water is a good heat conductor, so when your socks and feet get damp they will lose heat up to 25 times faster than when dry. If your exertion level is high enough, it is possible to generate enough heat to warm up wet shoes and socks, but look out when you stop – the water inside your shoes will quickly sap that warmth and you will have frozen feet. Despite their advantages, wet synthetic socks have the same effect as cotton; they conduct heat away from your feet, creating a dangerous situation when you stop.

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Cotton kills! Compared to wool or synthetics, it absorbs more water, doesn’t insulate when wet, takes much longer to dry, and is more likely to cause blisters.

Furthermore, when cotton gets wet it loses its shape and bunches. Cotton’s friction point also increases when it gets wet, so when we combine those two factors we have a recipe for disabling blisters. Wet feet + friction = blisters.

To illustrate the point that water is a good heat conductor, but air is not, consider this example: if the air temperature is 60 °F, you can feel quite comfortable with a long-sleeved base layer on, but if you jump into a swimming pool of 60 °F water, it feels like ice water and you can’t stay in very long. That’s because dry clothing traps air next to the skin to insulate it, but water next to the skin rapidly conducts heat away.

Wear Socks Made of Technical Fabrics

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The best cold weather sock system is a merino wool insulating sock worn over a wicking liner sock. Pictured are the Bridgedale Summit sock worn over the Seirus Outlast liner sock.

The skin on our feet is constantly giving off insensible perspiration to stay moist, and it releases sweat (as much as 1 pint per foot per day) to cool off when we overheat. Technical fabrics pull the sweat off the skin quickly and wick it to outer layers where it can be dispersed. It’s important to wear a hydrophobic wicking liner sock (Coolmax, Thermax, Outlast) next to your skin to pull moisture away. They will keep your skin dryer so your feet can retain their heat better and stay warmer longer. Also, they will help you avoid blisters because the friction point of these synthetics actually decreases as they become wet.

Wool socks are ideal for cold conditions, especially merino wool socks worn with a wicking liner sock. Wool has the natural ability to absorb moisture and still continue to insulate, so wool socks can keep your feet warm even when damp. It is the only fabric, natural or synthetic, that can do that. If you wear waterproof shoes, wool socks are imperative (more on that later). For more information on the comparative properties of wool and synthetic fabrics, read Comfort and Moisture Transport in Lightweight Wool and Synthetic Base Layers.

Further, US Army studies have found that combining technical socks with highly breathable mesh shoes greatly improved the wicking process. The sock and shoe work together to help transport moisture from skin surfaces to the outside.

Keep Moving

Wearing more flexible shoes allows us to flex our feet more, which generates more metabolic heat and encourages the circulation of warm blood through our feet. In cold weather, it’s a good practice to take only short breaks and eat on the fly. If you do stop for a longer break add extra insulation layers to your head, upper body, and feet (if possible).

Avoid Tight Socks

Tight socks restrict warm blood flow by compressing the surface capillaries, so it’s important that socks fit comfortably. If you wear two pairs of socks or a vapor barrier sock, it’s important that the additional layers are sized large enough so they are not tight. A snug fit is ok, but not a tight one.

Wear Larger Shoes

Similarly, the shoes you wear for cold weather hiking need to have extra room for thicker socks and multiple layers. Many experienced snow travelers have dedicated shoes that are one to one and a half sizes larger than their normal shoe size. It’s very important that winter footwear fits loose so it doesn’t restrict circulation. A snug fit may be ok, but you should be able to wiggle your toes within your shoes.

If Possible, Wear Breathable Shoes

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A lightweight fast-drying shoe like the Timberland Delerion Pro can be used for snowshoeing and snow hiking under the right conditions.

The combination of breathable shoes and technical socks is perfect when hiking or running on hardpack snow in cold weather or thru-hiking over snow drifts in mountain sections. The principle is the same as with warm weather hiking: your feet are better off in lightweight highly breathable shoes that allow perspiration to escape and that dry quickly as you keep moving.

However, in loose snow or slop, breathable shoes will get sopping wet. Many adventure racers don’t mind that because their high exertion level keeps their feet warm, and breathable shoes shed water faster. Alternatively, a vapor barrier sock or Gore-Tex sock (discussed later) can be worn inside a breathable shoe to keep your feet warm while still retaining the benefits of a breathable shoe. In cold weather though, when you stop, you have to get the wet shoes off and put on something dry and warm, or you end up with two blocks of ice.

Wear Waterproof Shoes When Truly Needed

If you spend a lot of time hiking in snow, rain, or slop then waterproof/breathable shoes are a good choice. “Waterproof” shoes will often have a Gore-Tex XCR bootie inside them, but many manufacturers offer proprietary membranes, and an eVENT liner is available in a few shoe models.

The Gore-Tex XCR liner used in footwear has rightfully earned its status as de facto standard. Gore-Tex guarantees it to be waterproof, and most of the time it is. Each shoe manufacturer licensed to use the Gore-Tex XCR membrane in their footwear must submit their shoes to Gore for testing to ensure they perform properly. Meeting Gore’s tests means they are “Guaranteed to Keep You Dry.” If a Gore-Tex shoe leaks, you can (theoretically) return it a retailer for a replacement.

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Waterproof/breathable shoes abound! Every shoe manufacturer offers “waterproof” shoes and/or boots of various types. Shoes with a Gore-Tex XCR liner like the Merrell Chameleon Wrap Gore-Tex XCR (left) are “Guaranteed to Keep You Dry.” The Keen Ochoco (right) has an eVENT liner.

We found that the Gore-Tex XCR technology fundamentally works to keep your feet dry, but it performs best under certain conditions. Although this membrane (and other waterproof/breathable technologies) are claimed to be “breathable,” there are definite limits to the amount of moisture (sweat) they will export from the inside of the shoe. Gore-Tex’s goal is to balance waterproofness, durability, and breathability. However, breathability is compromised by the other two factors (which is unavoidable to a large extent), so the bottom line is that breathability is limited. The result is that these shoes are waterproof from the outside in, and (to some extent) from the inside out. They are sufficiently breathable for low to moderate activity in cool and cold weather, but if your feet produce excessive amounts of sweat you will exceed the membrane’s ability to pass moisture. The outcome is that your socks accumulate moisture from your own sweat, which leads to damp socks and chilly feet when you slow down or stop. They are also slow to dry out if you don’t use a shoe dryer.

Although we have not done any testing, we would expect a waterproof/breathable trail runner to breathe better than a waterproof/breathable boot. The trail runners are constructed with a thinner, more breathable face fabric over the membrane, while boots typically cover the membrane with thicker, less permeable layers. Unfortunately, we have not had a chance to compare a shoe with a Gore-Tex XCR lining to a similar shoe with an eVENT lining. That would be an interesting comparison!

Although many users attest that waterproof/breathable shoes (especially Gore-Tex) keep their feet completely dry in the wettest of conditions, we have personally found that to be true only for shorter-term exposures to wet conditions. In longer-term exposures to really wet conditions, such as walking continuously in wet snow or wet vegetation, every waterproof/breathable shoe we have tried has wetted through enough to dampen our socks to some degree. We have measured it on several occasions by wearing a liner sock, vapor barrier sock, and an insulating sock inside the waterproof/breathable shoes or boots, plus a gaiter over the top. Since the vapor barrier sock traps any moisture from our feet sweating, any moisture in the insulating sock has come through the shoe itself. When we weighed our socks we found they had gained from 0.2 to 0.5 ounce of moisture per pair, enough for them to feel damp. The inside lining of the shoes was also noticeably damp.

Another option is to wear waterproof/breathable socks inside highly breathable mesh shoes. Gore-Tex socks and SealSkinz are good options. This can be a versatile way to create an effective waterproof/breathable footwear system, and we discuss the functionality of various waterproof/breathable socks in Part 2. These specialized socks work best if you wear a wicking liner sock or merino wool sock inside them. Wearing them against your skin feels very clammy, and is counter-productive because your skin gets damp and feet get cold easily whenever you stop.

Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel - 6
Wearing a waterproof/breathable sock like the Rocky Gore-Tex sock (left) when needed inside of a breathable fast-drying shoe like the Salomon Tech Amphibian (right) is a versatile alternative to waterproof/breathable shoes.

Change Socks

When you wear technical socks, the fabric transports the moisture away from the skin where it can (ideally) be evaporated away. The reality, unless your shoes are made from highly breathable mesh, is that much of the sweat from your feet is stored in your socks. This is especially true if you use waterproof footwear. It’s especially difficult to avoid moisture accumulation in a footwear system for cold/wet conditions, and even a small amount of moisture can lead to chilly feet. Merino wool is the best foot insulation because it has the unique ability to absorb moisture between its bundles of fibers but still continue to insulate, keeping your feet warm even when damp.

We weighed our damp socks on many occasions, and find that the feelings of “dampness” and “cold toes” can be caused by only a few tenths of an ounce of moisture in a pair of socks. The most effective way to get rid of the moisture and keep your feet dry and warm is to exchange your damp socks for dry ones during the day (in warmer weather, the best approach is to take your boots and socks off and dry them out). If you are snow camping it is especially important to remove your damp footwear right away and replace it with a dry camp footwear system. If you must wear your wet shoes in camp, a good way to keep your feet warm is to put a vapor barrier layer (a plastic bag works just fine) over your dry socks before you put your wet shoes back on.

To summarize, moisture from sweat gets trapped in most shoes (especially in waterproof shoes and under high exertion), and it doesn’t take very much moisture for your feet to feel chilly. The best moisture management technique is to change socks at midday in cold weather, or air them out frequently in warmer weather.

Add Layers for Extra Warmth

Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel - 7
The 6 millimeter thick neoprene Crescent Moon Bootie can be worn over the top of lightweight shoes or boots for snowshoeing in frigid weather.

It’s easy to add and remove layers to regulate our core temperature (more on that later), and we can do the same for our feet. As the temperature gets colder, we can simply add more layers over and under our feet to insulate more. Options are insulated insoles, insulating socks, gaiters, and overboots. The actual layers will depend on the type of activity and snow/wet conditions. Each layer reduces the amount of breathability, so moisture is trapped between the layers, especially if an overboot is worn.

Dry Socks and Shoes Thoroughly Between Uses

Moisture accumulates in socks and shoes, and especially in waterproof shoes. If they are even slightly damp the next time you wear them, your feet are likely to be chilly all morning. If you are day tripping, put your shoes on a shoe dryer overnight to be sure they are thoroughly dry. If you are snow camping, put your shoes and socks inside your jacket or sleeping bag to dry them out as much as possible. It helps a lot to warm your socks and shoes before you put them on, which makes it easier for your feet to keep them warm.

Make Use of Vapor Barriers

The use of vapor barrier socks is a complex subject. We will explain the principles here and cover the options in Part 2. Here are a few key points about using vapor barrier socks:

Use them only in frigid temperatures (less than 25 °F). In warmer temperatures, the feet sweat too much with a vapor barrier on, and the disadvantages outweigh the advantages

Don’t confuse a vapor barrier sock with a waterproof/breathable sock, such as a Gore-Tex sock; they function differently. But there are some intermediates that cause confusion, which we explain in Part 2.

If you have backpacked wearing a waterproof non-breathable rain jacket, you have already experienced a vapor barrier! The moisture condensation on the inside is testimony to how well they work as a vapor barrier, but a waterproof rain jacket is a very poor implementation of a vapor barrier because your clothing within can get quite damp. The concept of a vapor barrier sock is to confine the body’s own water vapor and heat production activity and utilize it to keep your feet warm, while keeping your outer insulation layer(s) dry. In this section we will unravel the mysteries of the vapor barrier and how it can be used to keep your feet warm.

Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel - 8
A lightweight vapor barrier sock, such as this one from Integral Designs, maintains a warm humid environment next to the foot. A vapor barrier is most effective in frigid temperatures.

Our body is equipped with a very complex thermal regulatory system to maintain our body temperature at a fairly high level (which is almost tropical) and within fairly tight limits. The skin is a highly sensitive organ that likes the air temperature around it to be about 75 °F (72 °F for the hands and feet, and about 78 °F for the head and neck) and a relative humidity of about 70-80%. It releases heat and water vapor (called insensible perspiration) to maintain those conditions in the boundary layer next to our skin. When that protective boundary layer is disrupted the skin reacts to restore it. If you overheat, the sweat glands in your skin start pumping out water vapor to cool the boundary layer back to the comfort zone. If you chill, the sweat glands shut down and your body starts to shiver, again trying to restore the boundary layer to the comfort zone. A vapor barrier worn next to (or very near) the skin works because it maintains the temperature and humidity in the boundary layer within the body’s comfort zone with minimal water vapor output. A warm moist environment is warmer than a warm dry environment, and that small bit of humidity adds to our warmth.

A vapor barrier sock works best next to the skin, but wearing a smooth vapor barrier sock (such as the one shown) against the skin gives a clammy feeling. Some manufacturers recommend wearing vapor barrier socks directly against the skin, while others recommend wearing a wicking liner sock inside, and others design their socks with a fuzzy lining to make them more comfortable. Vapor barrier socks with a fuzzy lining minimize the clammy feeling, but any vapor barrier sock worn next to skin holds more moisture next to our feet, so our toes are more likely to get cold if we stop for very long. Our personal preference is to wear a liner sock, which keeps the moisture from pooling against our skin, inside the vapor barrier socks.

With non-waterproof shoes we often wear our insulating socks inside the vapor barrier because we didn’t want them to get sopping wet from outside moisture soaking in. Our socks inside the vapor barrier gradually got damp (from sweat), but our feet stay warm all day as long as we keep moving. Wearing a vapor barrier does not eliminate the need to change socks to remove moisture from our shoes, but it is relatively easy to dry out damp socks compared to sopping wet socks. Alternatively, with non-waterproof shoes, one could wear a double vapor barrier system to keep insulating socks dry. This would consist of a liner sock, vapor barrier sock, insulating sock, and another vapor barrier sock.

Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel - 9
The most comfortable vapor barrier layering system (left to right) is a liner sock next to the foot, then a vapor barrier sock, then an insulating merino wool sock over that. Pictured (left to right) are the Seirus Outlast Liner Sock, RBH Designs Vapr Thrm Liner Sock, and Thorlo Mountaineering Sock. With an open mesh (non-waterproof) shoe, it’s necessary to put the insulating sock inside the vapor barrier sock. In that situation, consider wearing a waterproof/breathable sock instead of a vapor barrier sock.

Again, we want to emphasize that vapor barrier socks work best at temperatures below about 25 °F. The colder it is, the better a vapor barrier works. At those low temperatures a vapor barrier will dramatically decrease the amount of insulation you need to keep your feet warm. However, in warmer temperatures and under high exertion, it’s easy for your feet to overheat and sweat profusely, making a vapor barrier system very uncomfortable (and redundant).

If you wear waterproof/breathable shoes or boots, you are already using a vapor barrier system, albeit an imperfect one because the insulating layer is inside the vapor barrier where it will accumulate moisture. Think about it – most waterproof/breathable membranes have limited breathability, and in most shoe/boot constructions the waterproof/breathable liner is covered by impervious outer layers – so how can they breathe? Only a construction consisting of a waterproof/breathable lining covered by a porous fabric (e.g., a waterproof/breathable trail running shoe) will actually breathe. The rest function like a vapor barrier, holding much of the perspiration from your feet inside your shoes. That’s why it makes no sense to wear waterproof/breathable shoes in warm dry weather.

However, in frigid temperatures a good trick is to wear a vapor barrier sock inside of a waterproof/breathable shoe. This will keep your feet warm with a minimum of insulation layers, and it keeps moisture out of the lining of the shoe. It’s also very versatile because you can remove the vapor barrier sock in warmer temperatures and at higher exertion levels when it’s not needed, and you can wear the vapor barrier socks in your sleeping bag to keep your feet warmer.

Maintain Your Core Temperature

Maintaining your core temperature is a balancing act in which you must keep warm without overheating, sweating, and then chilling. In our experience, we are most comfortable “on the cool side of warm.” However, different people require different amounts of insulation to maintain that comfort. Men and women in particular may need to use different layering techniques; Will can be quite comfortable wearing a windshirt over a base layer while snowshoeing, but at the same time Janet is wearing two additional layers to maintain the same degree of warmth.

The clothing you wear affects the warmth of your feet. There is a constant balancing act your body is going through to maintain a constant core temperature. As your core heats up, your body will pump the hot blood away from the core to the extremities. As the core cools down, it will pull the blood away from the extremities, and your hands and feet get cold. In people who have Raynaud’s Syndrome this process is exaggerated. The trick is to keep your core warm enough so it will continue to heat the rest of your body.

Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel - 10
Using a layering system (base layer, insulating layer, outer shell layer) on your torso is a good way to maintain your core temperature and keep warm blood flowing to your extremities.

The best way to do this is to layer insulating clothing over your core. Wearing a thicker base layer, two base layers, or a base layer plus a vest all work well. If it is breezy or windy, an outer shell layer is necessary to control the chill factor from wind.

The key principle here is maintaining your core temperature. Simply opening or closing a shell layer, or adding or removing clothing is a good method to regulate core temperature during winter activities. The objective is to maintain core temperature so warm blood flows to the extremities. Doing nothing until your hands and feet get cold is not a good approach because it is hard to warm extremities that are already chilled. Maintaining your core temperature is a constant process requiring attention and effort.

Wear a Hat

Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel - 11
In cold and frigid temperatures, wearing a hat and using the layering system on your head is a good way to maintain body temperature. In frigid temperatures, a balaclava and hood works the best.

First, let’s deal with the myth: “If your feet are cold, cover your head because you can lose up to 75% of your body heat through your head alone.” Yes, it’s a myth, and we believed it ourselves for many years. The head is only about 10% of the body’s surface area, and it would have to lose about 40 times more heat per unit area compared to the rest of the body for this statement to be true.

The folks at the Wilderness Medicine Institute ran an experiment on student volunteers and found the rate of heat loss is relatively the same for any exposed part of the body. A person does not lose heat significantly faster through the scalp than any other portion of the body with the same surface area. The idea that we lose heat 4000% faster through our head, because of the constant blood supply to the brain, is simply a myth.

It is still a good idea to put on a hat if your feet are cold? Yes, the need for insulation over the head in cold weather is the same as for any other part of the body. Wearing a hat or balaclava works in conjunction with torso insulation to regulate your core temperature. In practice, adding or removing headwear layers to conserve or expel heat is an effective way to adjust your core temperature.

Eat to Maintain Your Metabolism

You need to fuel the furnace (your metabolism) to produce body heat. Waiting until you’re hungry or “bonked” before you eat is not a good idea because it can lead to serious chilling when you stop. It’s better to eat steadily, taking in about 300 to 400 calories per hour (depending on the temperature and your exertion level). While some protein is good, the real fuel for keeping warm is carbohydrates with some fat. Active snow travel in cold weather is the perfect time to feast on energy bars!

Stay Hydrated

Breathing cold dry air can result in a lot of water loss, so it’s best to drink plenty of water to keep the blood thin for transporting heat to your extremities. Think about the heat you are losing with each breath and each time you urinate. Replacing that heat with a hot beverage is a good way to maintain core temperature and stay hydrated, while drinking ice cold water puts more demand on your body’s metabolism to produce heat.

Avoid Caffeine, Alcohol, and Smoking

Each of these works against you by either constricting capillaries to reduce blood flow, or sending a flush of warmth to the skin and robbing you of the core heat you need to stay warm.

Foot Treatments

We end Part 1 with a mention of certain foot treatments that can help keep your feet warm. First, if you are preparing for a high exertion activity, you can slather your feet with an anti-perspirant to reduce sweating. This also works well when you wear a vapor barrier layer to reduce sweating inside the vapor barrier.

Another approach is to sprinkle a little cayenne pepper inside your socks in the toe and forefoot area to stimulate capillary action. It’s very important to only use a small amount of pepper, and avoid rubbing your eyes after touching your socks containing the pepper. This cayenne pepper treatment is actually a good technique for keeping feet warm. The trick is turning off the warming effect after you have finished your activity – remove your socks, wash your feet thoroughly with soap and water, and then deactivate the pepper by thoroughly rubbing lotion into the feet.

Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel - 12
For the times when your shoes/boots freeze up and you can’t get your feet warm, or if you normally have a difficult time keeping your feet warm, this is the solution.

Finally, we can’t overlook the wonders of chemistry, meaning foot warmers. There are many different brands of chemical foot warmers available in different sizes. When you open the package they start a slow oxidation (burn) that gives off heat. They can be put on top of the toes (outside your socks) inside the shoes, or between your shoes and booties. The warmers are supposed to last up to 6 hours, but they usually fade after about three hours. If you use one for only an hour or so, you can save it for later by sealing it tightly in a plastic bag. That will stop the oxidation process and store it temporarily so you can use it again.

If you’re expecting us to discuss battery powered insoles and socks, forget it! Our principles and techniques are limited to an organic, knowledge-based approach to keeping our feet warm, not a quick fix. Well, okay, maybe the chemical foot warmers are the exception!

Summary

Here is a re-cap of the important points in this section for keeping your feet dry and warm:

  • We want to maintain a layer of warm moist air next to our skin, and wick excess moisture away from our feet
  • Avoid cotton!
  • Wear insulating socks made of merino wool and wear a wicking liner sock under them to avoid blisters
  • Wear shoes that are large enough to accommodate extra sock layers
  • Wear breathable shoes when possible to allow moisture to escape
  • Wear waterproof shoes when they are truly needed
  • Moisture from sweat accumulates in socks, and only a small amount is enough to make your feet feel damp and cold
  • The best way to remove moisture is to change socks
  • Use the layering system to insulate your feet
  • Dry shoes and socks thoroughly between uses
  • In frigid temperatures, use a vapor barrier sock to maintain warmth with fewer layers
  • Maintain your core temperature to keep warm blood flowing to your extremities
  • Eat to maintain your metabolism and body heat
  • Stay hydrated for better circulation
  • Avoid caffeine, alcohol, and smoking which interfere with circulation or cause unnecessary heat loss
  • Take advantage of tricks (anti-perspirants, cayenne pepper, and chemical warmers) for some outside help

Preview of Parts 2 and 3

In the next two installments of this article we will explore the components of a lightweight footwear system, identify some of the best gear options, and assemble lightweight footwear systems for different activities and conditions.

About the Authors

The authors

Will Rietveld has BS and MS degrees in Forest Science and a PhD in Ecological Physiology and Biochemistry. He spent his entire career with the Research Division of the USDA Forest Service, where he worked as a research scientist, project manager, and national R&D program administrator.

Now retired, he lives in southern Colorado where he takes up a new career of backpacking year-round in the mountains and canyon country of the Southwest. He has been a lightweight backpacker for 40 years and an ultralight backpacker for 8 years.

Will joined the Backpacking Light staff in April 2004. For Will, gear testing and writing reviews and technical articles on outdoor gear fits in well with his passion for ultralight backpacking, and utilizes his research and writing skills from his former career.

Janet Reichl has a BS in Occupational Therapy and worked in the medical field specializing in hand therapy. She retired at the same time as Will, and also enjoys living in southern Colorado and backpacking in the mountains and canyon country of the Southwest. She has backpacked and canoe camped for 27 years and has been an ultralight backpacker for 8 years.

Janet is a professional seamstress and has made much of her own gear since she started backpacking. She is also a talented photographer and joined the Backpacking Light staff in January 2006 as Photo Editor. Janet and Will work together on gear testing and Janet provides photographic support.

Marmot Atom Sleeping Bag REVIEW

A one pound, three-season bag with top quality materials.

Introduction

The Marmot Atom sleeping bag is a one pound bag with high quality 850+ down fill and a Pertex Quantum shell – all top notch specifications. It has a half zipper, a nicely contoured hood, 4 inches of specified loft and is rated by Marmot to 40º Fahrenheit. It comes in a regular length (fits to 6 feet) and a long length (fits to 6 feet 6 inches). The Atom slips nicely into the niche of 1 pound mummy bags – but is it near the top of the pack? I did most of my testing over the course of the winter in the desert southwest, in conditions similar to alpine summers; perfect conditions for pushing the Atom near and beyond its limits. The photo at right was taken on a cool winter night in Sabino Canyon, Arizona.

The Atom is the lightest member of Marmot’s 850+ series of sleeping bags, which also includes the Hydrogen (1 pound 5 ounces), Helium (1 pound 13 ounces), Helium EQ (2 pounds 3 ounces, waterproof/breathable shell), and a women’s version of the Helium (1 pound 13 ounces, to 5 feet 6 inches). All except the Helium EQ feature similar specifications – same down, same Pertex Quantum shell.

What’s Good

  • Comfortable and breathable shell fabric
  • Hood is warm, comfortable and easy to use
  • At close to 1 pound, a very light three season bag
  • Good value for your dollar

What’s Not So Good

  • Over 2 ounces above specified weight
  • Some cold spots due to construction and fill

Specifications

  Year/Model

2006 Marmot Atom Sleeping Bag

  Style

Mummy (with half length (38 in, 97 cm) zipper)

  Fill

850+ down

  Measured Loft

1.9 in (4.8 cm) single layer loft averaged from measurements taken at the shoulder, hip and 16 in (41 cm) above the footbox. Baffles above the zipper are continuous to allow loft to be adjusted by the user

  Manufacturer Claimed Temperature Rating

40 ºF (4.4 ºC)

  Weight

1 lb 6.6 oz (640 g) long length as measured. Stuff sack adds 1.3 oz (37 g). Manufacturer’s spec 1 lb 0 oz (454 g), size regular, 1 lb 4 oz (567 g) size long

  Sizes

Regular (to 6 ft, 1.82 m), Long (to 6 ft 6 in, 1.98 m)

  Fabrics

Pertex Quantum N-090 ripstop shell Pertex Quantum N-090 taffeta lining

  Features

Insulated draft tube, half length zipper, zipper guards, draw cord and hood, 5 in (13 cm) spacing, sewn-through construction, stuff sack and storage sack included

  MSRP

$249 (Regular), $269 (Long)

Performance

The Atom is a narrow mummy bag and with its 40º temperature rating from Marmot, is clearly targeted at the ultralight summer backcountry traveler. My test bag is a size long, which has a specified weight of 1 pound 4 ounces. I was disappointed that the bag came in at 1 pound 6.6 ounces. The measured loft is 1.9 inches (single layer), just under the manufacturer’s specified loft of 2 inches (single layer). The Atom has sewn-through construction, with seams spaced 5 inches apart. Below the zipper, the down compartments are blocked, but above the zipper the compartments wrap around from top to bottom. This allows the user to move some down between top and bottom if necessary. The Atom has a mummy cut, with 62 inches of girth at the shoulders, 58 inches at the hip and 40 inches at the foot. That makes the Atom a little more roomy than some other ultralight bags, and I enjoyed the extra room on long winter nights. If tight mummy bags drive you crazy, the Atom is worth a look as an ultralight option.

Marmot Atom Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 2
The Marmot Atom has a 38 inch long half zipper which provides easy entry and exit, but less temperature control than a full zipper. The size long bag is cut plenty long for those up to 6 feet 6 inches tall.

One of the nicest features of the Atom is the hood. It is roomy, well insulated, nicely contoured to reduce cold spots, and very easy to adjust. I have spent several nights cocooned comfortably in the hood for 12 hours or more. Most of my testing occurred in dry conditions – not the best for testing the breathability of the Pertex Quantum shell. But I was always dry and comfortable and I expect the shell material will prove to be more breathable than shells on most comparable bags. I experienced absolutely no down leakage over a few months of testing. I would have expected a little leakage in a new bag. Another positive feature of the Atom is the price. The regular length model goes for $249, while the long comes in at $269. That compares quite well with similar bags that push the 1 pound envelope, such as the Western Mountaineering Summerlite.

Marmot Atom Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 3
The hood is well insulated, easy to use and comfortable.

Marmot Atom Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 4
The Atom has a zipper guard (stiffened lining on lower side in black) to reduce fabric snags and a moderately stuffed draft tube to reduce cold spots along the zipper.

Marmot Atom Sleeping Bag REVIEW - 5
The Atom uses sewn through construction, with seams placed at 5 inch intervals. The least insulated part of the bag is around your legs, which resulted in some notable cool spots when using the bag on cool nights. I measured the maximum loft of the Atom at just under 2 inches for a single layer (1.9 inches averaged from three locations). The sewn through construction reduces the effective loft below the measured maximum loft.

Missing from this review (and for all sleeping bag reviews published here, for that matter) will be an assessment of whether or not the sleeping bag performs adequately at temperatures near its manufacturer-reported temperature rating. Click here for the complete Backpacking Light Position Statement on Sleeping Bag Temperature Ratings.

What’s Unique

The Atom has excellent specifications and material quality. The down fill, Pertex Quantum shell and specified weight are a good combination and make the Marmot Atom a very good choice for a summer bag – especially at its price ($249 for size regular).

Recommendations for Improvement

My biggest disappointment was that the Atom weighed 2.6 ounces more than the manufacturer’s specified weight (the test bag is a size long). It seems likely that the regular size bag will also weigh in at least a couple of ounces more than its specified weight of 16 ounces. To really be cutting edge, the Atom will need to shed a couple of ounces, or retain its current weight and add ultralight baffles to improve its effective loft and warmth.

Seirus NeoSock SuperSock and StormSock SPOTLITE REVIEW

Breathable neoprene socks and weatherproof/breathable socks designed to keep feet warm in cold weather pursuits.

Overview

Seirus sent us a bunch of their specialized outdoor socks to test in our Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel project (link in sidebar). These included the NeoSock and SuperSock which are neoprene water-resistant/breathable socks, and their StormSock and Hyperlite StormSock which are a weatherproof/breathable three-layer construction. How well did they perform for keeping feet warm and dry while snow hiking and snowshoeing?

Seirus NeoSock SuperSock and StormSock  SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
Specialized socks from Seirus we evaluated are (left to right) Outlast Liner Sock, NeoSock, SuperSock, StormSock, and Hyperlite StormSock.

We used the Seirus Outlast Liner Sock in a wide variety of footwear systems as a first layer to wick moisture away from the skin. We went to the Outlast website to find out what the Outlast technology is all about, and conclude it’s a “black box”, meaning the manufacturer’s explanation of it is very vague: “Tiny ‘microencapsulated Thermocules’ spun directly into yarns absorb and store excess heat, and release it when you need it most.” Now you know as much as we do! All the hype aside, we found the Seirus Outlast Liner Sock to be high quality, warm for its weight, and very versatile

The other Seirus socks we evaluated are confusing because the names are so similar, so we will cover them as two pairs of similar socks to distinguish them.

NeoSock and SuperSock

The NeoSock is 3 millimeter thick neoprene with a thin four-way stretch nylon fabric on the outside and a thin stretch polyester on the inside. The SuperSock is 2 millimeter thick neoprene with the same face fabric and lining but the inside color is red instead of black. The only difference is in the thickness of the neoprene layer. Both socks have lots of stretch.

Seirus NeoSock SuperSock and StormSock  SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
The Seirus NeoSock (top) and SuperSock Bottom) are highly breathable neoprene, and are not waterproof. The right sock is turned inside out in the photos to the left. The photos to the right show a close-up of the outside and inside fabrics.

These socks are claimed to be “highly breathable” and water-resistant, so they are basically insulating socks. We performed our “balloon test” (blow up a sock by mouth, pinch off the top, squeeze the air out through the fabric) on these socks, and found they breathed very well. In our “immersion test” for waterproofness (stuff a sock with a white cotton T-shirt, submerge it up to the ankle in a pan of water for an hour, inspect the T-shirt for wetness), they easily wetted through and soaked the T-shirt. Our results verify that they are highly breathable and non-waterproof, so we conclude their main purpose is breathable insulation.

They are sized to fit snug on the feet, kind of like wetsuit socks. Worn directly against the skin when snow hiking or snowshoeing, the socks feel warm at first, but soon feel clammy and chilly from sweat held inside. We much preferred to wear liner socks inside them, but there was barely enough room because of their snug fit, so they were a bit too tight, which is not good for keeping feet warm. To wear these socks comfortably, we recommend sizing up one size so they fit comfortably over a liner sock or thin wool sock. It’s also necessary to wear these socks inside a boot or shoe that is fairly waterproof, otherwise they will wet through from the outside. The bottom-line for us – we would prefer to wear wool socks instead of neoprene socks. However, neoprene socks are worth considering when the amount of space is very limited, e.g., ski boots.

Seirus NeoSock SuperSock and StormSock  SPOTLITE REVIEW - 3
The Seirus SuperSock (shown) and NeoSock (not shown) are stretchy neoprene and are designed to be worn against the skin as an insulating sock. We found they breathe very well, but feel clammy against the skin, so it’s best to size up and wear a liner sock under them.

StormSock and Hyperlite StormSock

These socks are completely different from the neoprene socks discussed above. The StormSocks are made of two versions of Seirus’s Weather Shield tri-laminate fabric. The StormSock has a weatherproof/breathable membrane sandwiched between a durable four-way stretch Nylon fabric on the outside and a polyester fleece lining on the inside, and the Hyperlite StormSock has a four-way stretch Nylon and Spandex fabric on the outside and a thin polyester fleece lining on the inside.

Seirus NeoSock SuperSock and StormSock  SPOTLITE REVIEW - 4
The Seirus StormSock (top) and Hyperlite StormSock (bottom) are a waterproof/breathable three-layer construction. The StormSock is fleece-lined, while the Hyperlite StormSock is thinner and stretchier. The right sock is turned inside out in the photos to the left. The photos to the right show a close-up of the outside and inside fabrics.

In contrast to the neoprene socks, these socks are comfortable to wear against the skin because of their fleece lining. They are also sized for a snug fit, so there is little room to wear liner socks inside, unless you size up to accommodate them.

These socks are claimed to be weatherproof/breathable. The term “weatherproof” is a bit vague, and implies that the socks are waterproof; they are not. Our “balloon test” on these socks found they breathed fairly well. However, the socks do not appear to be seam-sealed so the air could have escaped through the seams under pressure. Our “immersion test” revealed that these socks easily wetted through and soaked the T-shirt inside. We conclude that these socks are not waterproof but they are breathable. The next step is to evaluate how “weatherproof” they are.

We snowshoed, snow hiked, and summer hiked in very wet conditions wearing the StormSocks (with and without a liner sock inside them) in non-waterproof trail running shoes. The combination kept our feet warm at first while hiking in wet snow or wet vegetation at warmer temperatures, but they soon wetted through and our toes got cold. The leakage was primarily in the toe area and amounted to only 0.3 to 0.4 ounce of water per sock when we weighed them, but it was plenty to cause chilly toes. We found no evidence that the seams are taped, so the leakage most likely occurred through the sewn seams. Thus, our field tests agree with our “lab” tests, and conclude that these socks have no use as a waterproof/breathable sock.

Since these socks are fairly breathable and not waterproof, we tested them in non-waterproof boots while snowshoeing and walking in cold dry snow. Under those conditions boots stay mostly dry, and the StormSocks were effective as a (semi) vapor barrier to keep our feet warmer and restrain moisture from entering our wool insulating socks. We say “semi vapor barrier because they are not seam-sealed, and they allow a bit of moisture to migrate into our insulating socks worn over them. We conclude they are most useful worn against the skin as a vapor barrier sock in cold and frigid conditions. Such a system worn in frigid temperatures will help keep feet warmer, but it would allow a small amount of moisture (from sweat) to migrate into insulating socks and the shoe lining. The Seirus StormSocks also fit much better than other vapor barrier socks we reviewed.

Seirus NeoSock SuperSock and StormSock  SPOTLITE REVIEW - 5
We wore the Seirus StormSocks (Hyperlite StormSock shown) while snowshoeing, snow hiking, and summer hiking in very wet conditions. They leaked, and our toes got damp and cold, so they have no use as a waterproof/breathable sock. They performed much better as a vapor barrier sock in cold and frigid conditions.

Overall, we cannot recommend neoprene socks to keep feet dry and warm while snow hiking and snowshoeing. The cannot compete with a good pair of merino wool socks for insulation and moisture managemen. The weatherproof/breathable Stormsocks perform as a vapor barrier in cold and frigid conditions. A totally waterproof vapor barrier sock would function slightly better, but we did not find any that fit nearly as well as the StormSocks. Because these socks are thin, they would also be useful in situations where there is very limited room, such as a ski boot.

Specifications and Features

  • Manufacturer: Seirus Innovation (www.seirus.com)
  • Sizes: Men’s and Women’s S,M,L,XL
  • Fabric: NeoSock and SuperSock are neoprene with a thin four-way stretch nylon fabric on the outside and a thin stretch polyester on the inside, StormSock and Hyperlite StormSock are a three-layer construction consisting of a nylon/Spandex face fabric, membrane and fleece lining (StormSock) or tricot lining (Hyperlite StormSock)
  • Features: Fitted, two-way stretch, flat seams
  • Weight: Measured weight/pair for size Large: NeoSock 3.7 oz (105 g), SuperSock 3.2 oz (91 g), StormSock 2.7 oz (77 g), Hyperlite StormSock 1.7 oz (48 g); manufacturer specification NeoSock n/a, SuperSock 4.8oz/pair (136 g), StormSock 4.0 oz/pair (113 g), and Hyperlite 2.4oz/pair (68 g)
  • MSRP: NeoSock and SuperSock $21, StormSock and Hyperlite StormSock $26

RBH Designs VaprThrm Socks SPOTLITE REVIEW

Vapor barrier socks with a good fit and loads of versatility, but slower to dry out when snow camping.

Introduction

Backpacking Light testers got an early look at RBH Designs’ vapor barrier socks back in 2001 when they first came out, and praised their versatility and ability to seal in moisture and warmth. As part of a project on Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel (to be published soon), we compared the RBH Designs VaprThrm Liner Sock and VaprThrm Insulated Sock with other vapor barrier (VB) sock designs. The Liner Sock (1.8 ounces/pair, size Large) is the lightest one we tested, had the best fit, and was the best performer. The Insulated Sock (4.7 ounces/pair, size Large) is essentially a vapor barrier sock and insulating sock combined, and also performed very well on day trips.

RBH Designs Vapr Thrm Socks SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
RBH Designs VaprThrm Liner Sock (left) and VaprThrm Insulated Sock (right). For information on the Principles and Techniques for using vapor barrier socks, see the article in the sidebar.

RBH Designs Vapr Thrm Socks SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
Both RBH Designs vapor barrier socks have a soft lining and are recommend to be worn against the skin. The layering system for the Liner Sock is (left to right) to put the vapor barrier sock on first, then wear a wool sock over it. The Insulating Sock is a vapor barrier sock and insulating sock combined, so it can be worn as a single layer, or with another sock over it for extra warmth in frigid temperatures.

To get the proper sizing for RBH Designs’ socks, the procedure is to trace the outline of your foot on a piece of paper, measure the length and width, match it with a list of sizes on the RBH Designs website, and choose the closest match. Or, order custom socks for an additional $6 charge. This is an excellent system to ensure that the socks fit when you get them.

VaprThrm Liner Sock

RBH Designs Vapr Thrm Socks SPOTLITE REVIEW - 3
The RBH Designs VaprThrm Liner Sock: interior and exterior (left), and worn in the field with gaiters removed for the photo (right).

The Liner Sock is made of a three-layer fabric consisting of a soft brushed tricot lining, a vapor barrier film, and a brushed tricot applied to the outside to protect the membrane. The sock is not seam sealed, but it is an effective VB to seal moisture inside, except for a very small amount of moisture (from sweat) that might move through the seams into an insulating sock worn over it.

RBH Designs Vapr Thrm Socks SPOTLITE REVIEW - 4
The RBH Designs VaprThrm Liner Sock is a three-layer construction consisting of a waterproof film sandwiched between two layers of a soft brushed tricot.

The socks have a semi-fitted design, meaning that they are tailored to the shape of the foot but loose fitting. Wearing an insulating sock (merino wool recommended) over them compresses the VB sock to the foot. We did not feel the folds or have any problem with them rubbing against our feet.

We especially liked the Liner Sock for day use in frigid temperatures (below 25 F), where a VB provides a distinct benefit. They accumulate some moisture inside (from sweat), and their tricot lining minimizes the clammy feeling. Even though there was some moisture within the VB, our feet stayed warm as long as we kept moving.

RBH Desgns VaprThrm Insulated Sock

RBH Designs Vapr Thrm Socks SPOTLITE REVIEW - 5
RBH Desgns VaprThrm Insulated Sock: interior and exterior (left), and worn in the field with gaiters removed for the photo (right).

The Insulated Sock is a VB sock and insulated sock combined, and has the same design and fit as the Liner Sock. These socks are also a three-layer construction, consisting of a soft brushed tricot lining, a vapor barrier film, and a fleece exterior. Both interior and outside fabrics are very durable, so these socks should last a long time.

RBH Designs Vapr Thrm Socks SPOTLITE REVIEW - 6
The RBH Desgns VaprThrm Insulated Sock is also a three-layer construction consisting of a soft brushed tricot lining (thicker than the Liner Sock), a waterproof film, and a fleece exterior.

This sock can be worn as a single layer or with another insulating sock over it for extra warmth. The exterior seems more like felt than fleece, which makes the sock a little heavier than expected. We found them a little more comfortable with a thin liner sock inside them, but that gets down to a matter of personal preference. Since the Insulated Sock is thicker, the seams are thicker and more noticeable when the sock is compressed inside a boot. We did not have any problems with the seams rubbing our feet, but we found that the Insulated Sock is less comfortable to wear compared to the Liner Sock with a wool sock over it.

With either of the RBH Socks, there is no question about the warmth this VB sock system provides in frigid weather. For the ultimate warmth, a dynamite layering combination is the Liner Sock, wool sock, and another VB liner or the Insulated Sock over that.

The Insulated Sock performed well on day trips, where they can be dried out at home overnight. However, when we used the Insulated Sock on multi-day trips in frigid temperatures, we had a problem with the thicker inside lining absorbing moisture during the day and being more difficult to dry out at night. When snow camping is involved, a better VB sock system would be the RBH Liner Sock plus a wool sock, or the double VB system described above.

Features and Specifications

  • Manufacturer: RBH Designs (www. rbhdesigns.com)
  • Sizes: 5-13, match your foot dimensions to available sizes on the RBH website, or order a custom size
  • Fabric: Liner Sock is brushed taffeta sandwiching a VB film; Insulated Sock is thicker brushed taffeta on the inside, VB film, and fleece on the outside
  • Features: Semi-fitted, sewn-in sole panel
  • Weight: Liner Sock measured weight size Small 1.6 oz/pair (45 g), size Large 1.8 oz/pair (51 g); manufacturer specification 1.8 oz/pair (51 g); Insulated Sock measured weight size Small 4.0 oz/pair (113 g), size Large 4.7 oz/pair (133 g); manufacturer specification 4.8 oz/pair (136 g)
  • MSRP: Liner Sock $26 US, Insulated Sock $36 US

Forty Below Synthetic Fill Camp Booties SPOTLITE REVIEW

Ultra warm non-slip booties for snow camping, and they coordinate well with daytime snow travel footwear.

Overview

In our Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel project (to be published soon), one area of focus was coordinating a daytime footwear system with a snow camping footwear system. For serious cold, we wanted a warm bootie that could either be worn by itself on snow or worn inside an overboot. The Forty Below Synthetic Fill Camp Booties are designed for mountaineering and winter camping and weigh just 10 ounces per pair.

Forty Below Synthetic Fill Camp Booties SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
The Forty Below Synthetic Fill Camp Booties (top left) have a Cordura rand, and nylon taffeta upper, and drawcord closure. The inside (top right) is taffeta nylon. The sole (bottom left) is a thin rubber dot material, and the booties come with a removable 3/8-inch closed-cell foam insole (bottom right) for extra underfoot insulation.

These booties are designed for snow camping. The bottom is a thin rubber dot material that provides excellent traction on snow. There is a durable Cordura rand, and the uppers and lining are nylon taffeta. They are insulated around and under the feet with a continuous filament polyester fiber. There is a drawcord and cordlock closure at the top. The booties come with a removable closed-cell foam insert to provide extra underfoot insulation.

The booties are also designed for mountaineering. While other synthetic insulated booties may be lighter, many don’t have a waterproof rubber sole to get good traction on packed snow and to resist wetting. They are designed to be worn inside a plastic mountaineering boot with their liner removed. That system provides warm feet plus good support and traction around camp while the boot liners are being dried.

Forty Below Synthetic Fill Camp Booties SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
The Forty Below Synthetic Fill Camp Booties worn while camping in an igloo.

We wore the Forty Below Booties on numerous snow camping trips over the better part of two winters, and found them to be lightweight (considering their rubber sole and thick insulation), warm, and dependable. We wore them by themselves on packed snow, or inside overboots in camp to keep them as dry as possible so we could wear them in our sleeping bags.

For snow travel in frigid temperatures, a good coordinated lightweight footwear system is the Forty Below Camp Booties inside Forty Below Light Energy Overboots in camp, and the Light Energy Overboots worn over a lightweight insulated boot on snowshoes or over climbing boots during the day.

Features and Specifications

  • Manufacturer: Forty Below (www.40below.com)
  • Sizes: S,M,L,XL (fits women’s 5 to men’s 18)
  • Insulation: continuous filament polyester fiber that has been laminated to one side of the shell fabric for stability, and also silicone treated to resist bunching of the fibers and allow for better moisture evaporation
  • Fabric: Sole is rubber dot material, rand is Cordura nylon, upper and lining are nylon taffeta
  • Features: Non-slip sole, insulation around and under the foot, durable Cordura rand, drawcord and cordlock closure, removable closed-cell foam inserts
  • Weight: Size Small is 7.3 oz/pair (207 g), size Large is 9.7 oz/pair (275 g); manufacturer specification 10 oz/pair (283 g) for size Medium
  • MSRP: $59.95 US

Komperdell Featherlight Carbon Trekking Pole REVIEW

Stiff, light, reasonably priced fixed-length pole with contoured grip and wrist strap.

Introduction

Komperdell Featherlight Carbon Trekking Pole REVIEW - 1
The Komperdell Featherlight Carbon trekking pole is stiff! Here it supports a 20 pound pack with ease on Mt. Baldy in Arizona.

If you are hesitant about making the move to a fixed length carbon pole, the Komperdell Featherlight Carbon trekking poles are just the ticket. They have all the features and performance of a “regular” trekking pole – stiff, contoured grip, tapered shaft, wrist strap and carbide tip – except the weight (4.3 oz for 120 cm length). And, at about $100, they are among the least expensive carbon poles. One catch – plan on leaving the baskets on once you install them.

What’s Good

  • Among the lightest poles available at 4.3 ounces per pole
  • Unnoticeable flex under full body weight
  • Molded EVA grips are very comfortable
  • Perform and look like “real” poles with tapered shaft, contoured grip, wrist strap, and carbide flextip
  • Reasonably priced at about $100

What’s Not So Good

  • Carbon shafts are more easily damaged from sharp object side impact
  • I was unable to remove the press-fit baskets once installed
  • Fixed length poles are trickier to use as shelter supports
  • There are lighter poles

Specifications

  Year/Model

2006 Komperdell Featherlight Carbon poles

  Style

Fixed length

  Shaft Material

Carbon fiber, 16 mm (0.63 in) diameter

  Tips

Carbide Alpine flextips

  Grips

Molded EVA foam with wrist straps

  Grip Size

Medium-Large

  Weight Per Pole
(without baskets)

4.25 oz (120 g, pre-production pole) measured weight 120 cm (47 in) length; 4.6 oz (135 g, production pole with leather wrist strap) measured weight 135 cm (53 in); manufacturer’s specification: 4.3 oz (122 g) for 120 cm length

  Pole Length

Fixed: 43-53 in (110-135 cm) in 5 cm increments, 47 in (120 cm) length tested. Komperdell measures pole length from end to end – from the flex tip to the top of the grip.

  Baskets Included?

Yes – diameter: 2 3/8 in (6 cm), weight: 0.2 oz (7 g)

  Basket Type

Press fit / Komperdell

  MSRP

about $100

Komperdell Featherlight Carbon Trekking Pole REVIEW - 2
The Komperdell Featherlight poles look like “regular” fixed-length poles with their 16 millimeter shafts and substantial wrist straps; but weigh half what you might expect.

Performance

The Komperdell Featherlight Carbon poles are beauties. Each pole weighs an ounce to an ounce and a half more than the lightest trekking poles (Gossamer Gear Lightrek, Titanium Goat Goat poles, Bozeman Mountain Works Stix Pro) but the complete package of the Komperdell poles is well worth the nearly unnoticeable-in-the-hand extra weight. The Featherlight poles are more finished than the Titanium Goat poles (contoured grips with straps and better tips), they are much cheaper than the Bozeman Mountain Works Stix poles, and they are stiffer than the Gossamer Gear Lightrek poles. These one-piece carbon fiber poles look and perform like regular weight poles with their 16 millimeter top diameter, handle to tip taper, and super stiffness. Marketed as alpine ski poles, they make wonderful trekking poles.

The concern with carbon fiber poles is their strength, especially their vulnerability to sharp side impacts. I used the Featherlight poles on bushwhacking trips where I returned bloodied, bruised and with torn clothing but the Featherlight poles emerged with merely a few scratches. The toughest test was a class 3 scramble ascending 3000 feet in 2 miles up Siphon draw in the Superstition Wilderness of Arizona. Since the poles are fixed length, I used them when I would normally have stowed collapsible poles. The Featherlight poles earned my confidence when I pushed my full weight onto them with almost no discernable give. When I absolutely needed both hands, I carried both poles in one hand; the fixed length was cumbersome, but the light weight made it easy to maneuver them around rocks and brush. The poles took some hard bangs against rocks but have showed no signs of structural damage.

The molded foam EVA grips are superb. The trigger finger and bottom ridges protrude far enough that your hand rests easily in place without depending on the wrist strap in either a full grip position or in the hill climbing position with just thumb and forefinger resting on the bottom ridge.

Opinions are mixed on whether a wrist strap is needed on poles as light as these. The first time I used Gossamer Gear Lightrek poles I was very surprised to find I didn’t miss straps since I normally rest my wrist heavily on the strap during downhill scrambles. (With the Gossamer Gear poles I just put my hands on top of the grips on steep downhills.) Still, I appreciate the extra grip positions and support offered by the Komperdell Featherlight straps. The straps on the prototype poles I tested quickly frayed and looked unattractive on an otherwise beautiful pole. Komperdell is using very nice looking leather straps on their production poles. For those who don’t use a wrist strap or want to save about half an ounce per pole, cut the straps off without fear – the molded grips are perfect for strapless hiking.

The Komperdell Featherlight poles are incredibly stiff. There is a very slight flex on steep downhills with my full weight on the poles, but much less flex than on three-piece Leki Ultralite Titanium poles I have. The stiffness gives lots of confidence in these carbon fiber poles. The flex is much less than on some other carbon fiber poles as demonstrated in the photo above where a water-loaded 20 pound pack hangs from the middle of a Featherlight pole. For a more quantitative measure, I repeated Will Rietveld’s stiffness test by suspending a pole between two chairs and pulling downward at the center with a digital fish scale. The Featherlight poles bent less than 1 inch with a lateral force of 25 pounds applied as compared to 2 inches for the Life Link AT Superlight carbon poles that Will tested.

Komperdell Featherlight Carbon Trekking Pole REVIEW - 2

Komperdell Featherlight Carbon Trekking Pole REVIEW - 3

Komperdell will use a leather wrist strap on their production Featherlight poles.

The baskets are different not only from other brands’ baskets, but also from the usual Komperdell basket; they are press-fit rather than twist-on. The small baskets retain the wider diameter (2 3/8 inch) of previous Komperdell baskets (as compared to the small Leki and Black Diamond baskets). The Komperdell baskets are very flexible. I found it impossible to remove the baskets once they were installed. The basket and basket holder assembly can be removed together by bracing the basket holder between your feet and pulling up on the pole. (I easily pushed the basket and assembly back on the pole after removal and it continues to remain in place after severe use.) Komperdell has not responded to my questions about the basket design.

Fixed length trekking poles, although not as easy to use as collapsible poles, can be used for shelter support. Even if they are not the exact right length, small adjustments can be made by propping a pole on a rock or slanting it to mimic a shorter pole. Slanting a pole has the advantage of allowing an instant shelter tune up after sag has set in by moving the bottom of the pole to effectively lengthen it. For tarps or tents requiring a short rear pole, a strip of duct tape around the pole at the correct height will hold a girth hitch in place. Of course there may be some shelters where your fixed length pole will not be a workable tent pole. I used the Featherlight poles very successfully to support a Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape shelter.

Compatibility With Trekking Pole Shelters

Shelter type and pole length required Usable with this shelter?
Gossamer Gear/Tarptent Squall Classic (42 in/107 cm) Depends on length
Tarptent Virga 2 / Squall 2 and Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo / Europa (45 in/114 cm) Depends on length
GoLite Trig 2 (48 in/123 cm) Depends on length
MSR Missing Link (54 in/137 cm) Only with extra support
Six Moon Designs Gatewood Cape (45 in/114 cm) Taller poles work well; pitches taller than the manufacturer recommendation

Komperdell measures pole length from tip to the top of the handle. Before you order, determine the correct pole length by noting the length your adjustable poles are normally set to. The strap and grip of the Featherlight poles allow quite a bit of height variability from your hand on top of the grip, to just hanging on to the bottom ridge of the grip, to a position below the grip by lengthening the strap to the max. The poles are wide enough to get a fairly good grip on just the shaft.

Komperdell Featherlight Carbon Trekking Pole REVIEW - 2

Komperdell Featherlight Carbon Trekking Pole REVIEW - 3

Once the press fit Komperdell basket is attached, it can’t be removed except by pushing the basket and holder assembly off the pole (left). The carbide tip gripped well (right).

What’s Unique

The Komperdell Featherlight Carbon poles are the lightest fixed-length carbon poles with contoured grips and straps – and at a great price. (The Life-Link AT Superlight poles are a bit less stiff, a bit more expensive and weigh a couple of ounces more per pole.)

Recommendations for Improvement

The Komperdell Featherlight Carbon poles are a polished package providing a great balance of stiffness, light weight, and features. The single visual flaw was the comfortable but sloppy looking pre-production wrist strap; Komperdell has moved to a very sharp looking leather strap for the production poles. My only suggestion is to change the press fit basket system to allow the baskets to be removed.

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW

A roomy, comfortable, lightweight framed backpack with lots of pockets, good load control, an adjustable torso length, and a few weak spots.

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 1
The mid-sized Talon 44 rides fairly low and won’t interfere with the head or a hat.

Introduction

The Talon 44 is the largest of a new series of “active light” packs from Osprey and the only one to feature a frame. A mid-sized, top-loading, internal frame pack, the Talon 44 incorporates lightweight materials (maybe too light if not handled with care) while offering plentiful features and an effective frame-type suspension.

What’s Good

  • Quite light for a medium-size pack with an effective frame and suspension
  • Comfortable and responsive
  • Compression scheme manages diminishing loads
  • Eight external pockets, six accessible while wearing the pack
  • Floating, removable top pocket
  • Bottom main-compartment zip
  • Adjustable torso length

What’s Not So Good

  • Some fragile fabrics and hardware
  • Load compression straps interfere with side pockets
  • Too-high sternum strap attachment points

Specifications

  Manufacturer

Osprey

  Model

Talon 44

  Style

Internal frame, top-loading, drawstring closure, adjustable top pocket-lid

  Volume

Size M/L tested: 2600 ci (44 L)

  Weight

Manufacturer: 2 lb 7 oz (1.10 kg); as measured: 2 lb 6 oz (1.06 kg)

  Sizes Available

S/M, M/L

  Torso Fit Range

S/M fits <19 in (48 cm) torso, M/L fits >19 in (48 cm) torso

  Fabrics

70d x 100d and 160d x 330d Nylon “Shadow Check”; stretch woven nylon-Lycra

  Features

Removable floating top pocket lid with internal and external ditty pockets; extension collar, stretch fabric pockets on sides and back and stretch mesh pockets on hipbelt wings and shoulder straps (seven total); “external” hydration pocket; two carry loops and straps for poles or tools and two sleeping pad straps, aluminum, composite and thermo-foam frame; adjustable torso length harness w/ load-lifter straps; Airscape ventilated back panel; “ergopull” hipbelt; sternum strap w/ whistle buckle; bottom zip main compartment access

  Volume To Weight Ratio

68.4 ci/oz (M/L)

  Comfortable Load Carrying Capacity

28 lb (12.7 kg) estimated comfortable load carrying capacity for an average person carrying the pack all day

  Carry Load to Pack Weight Ratio

11.8 (based on 28 lb and a measured weight of 2.375 lb)

  MSRP

$159

Performance

The Talon 44 is a comfortable and surprisingly spacious backpack for weekend and even longer trips. Its single main compartment is medium in width and somewhat short but deep, and swallows a good-size load. The floating top lid and numerous other pockets add considerable capacity. The frame-type suspension flexes with the torso and keeps mass reasonably close to the body – load control and comfort are good. Osprey’s careful selection of fabrics and hardware has kept the Talon 44’s weight quite low for a framed pack, but at some cost of durability.

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 2

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 3

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 4

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 5

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 6

Plentiful pockets are a Talon talent.

Suspension System

Two vertical composite side struts run up either side of the back panel and connect to a tubular aluminum cross-member at the top. This cross-member provides the load control strap anchor points. Between the side struts is a fairly stiff HDPE foam panel, topped by softer shaped foam at various contact points with the back. The whole backpanel is covered by open mesh, creating what Osprey calls the “airscape.” The Velcro-anchored shoulder strap yoke attachment point is adjustable, giving the Talon 44 two to three inches of torso length range. The cut-foam hipbelt and shoulder straps are also mesh-covered, to enhance ventilation and reduce sweat accumulation. The hipbelt uses Osprey’s “ergopull” adjustment system, and the sternum strap attachment point is adjustable. There are no hipbelt control straps but there are four side compression straps.

Features and Utility

The Talon 44 is loaded with features. I’ll begin with the top-opening main compartment, which has an extra access zipper that completely opens the pack bottom, where most folks keep their sleeping bag or quilt. At the top is about a 4-inch extension collar. The main compartment is somewhat short and deep, meaning it handles large, bulky items more easily than many packs of this size. A Bearikade Weekender canister (9 x 10 inches) fits sideways; people who cram it to the bottom will appreciate the bottom zip. The pack is topped by a removable floating pocket. The zipped pocket has a small organizer pocket and key clip inside and a zipped mesh pocket underneath. Between the main compartment and back panel is a hydration pocket that can be accessed from the top without opening the pack. It has a top anchor strap for the water bladder. This scheme still reduces pack volume somewhat, but perhaps less than the typical reservoir-in-the-main-compartment approach. It definitely eases mid-day fill-ups.

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 7
Bottom zip allows quick access to low items, such as a sleeping bag, or easy bear canister entry.

Seven pockets in addition to the lid adorn the Talon 44: two stretchy side pockets, a large stretchy front center pocket, two “gel” pockets on the shoulder straps and two roomy zipped pockets on the hipbelt wings. The side pockets easily handle 1-liter bottles, but are constricted by the side compression straps. Even so, they can be accessed with the pack on. The front pocket holds lots; e.g., it easily accommodates full raingear or other daytime clothing. None of these pockets is weather-tight.

Additional touches are a pair of axe/pole loops and anchors and a pair of straps on the lower main panel, useful for holding a sleeping pad or groundcloth as well as taking some stress off the zipper. Lots of reflective doodads mean you can watch your Talon be dragged quite a ways into the woods by mister bear, by flashlight.

The Talon 44 is a fine three-season weekend pack, even for less-than-meticulous packers. It’s easy to load and has excess exterior load capacity once the main compartment is full. In addition to the front straps, items can be strapped beneath the top pocket, and of course there’s the large front pocket. I’ve little doubt careful packers can squeeze in close to a week’s worth of gear and food.

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 8
Front load straps and stowage beneath the top lid enhance the Talon 44’s capacity. Deep main body means the load extends far from the back, so heavy items must be packed close to the shoulders for best load control and balance.

Fit

The tested medium/large Talon 44 fit my 20-inch torso without my fully extending the shoulder strap yoke. However, despite the potential reserve length for taller hikers, I question whether load control would be as effective at full length. For me, load control is quite good. The Talon suspension is responsive, similar in design and feel to the last Mountainsmith Ghost. Once the pack is properly fitted, when the load control straps are snugged the vertical rods bend to form a springy load that feels lively. The hipbelt is comfortable, and strap end anchors reduce flapping.

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 9
Velcro yoke anchor gives 2 or 3 inches of torso length adjustment.

While I’ve not used the Talon in warm weather, the various ventilation schemes handle sweat acceptably well in fall and winter. Approaching and passing 30-pound loads reveals the airscape suspension’s carry limits; I found up to about 28 pounds to be reasonable, even if the pack wasn’t full (many packs sag disconcertingly when partially filled). It’s important to use the side compression straps to reduce volume as the load diminishes. The sternum strap adjustment points seem oddly high; a lower option would suit me better than the range provided.

Assessment

After a few trail hours, the fit/no-fit question is generally answered with most backpacks. The Talon 44 passes this test for me. I’ve used other packs of similar volumes, and find the Talon 44 easier to pack while still being comfortable to carry. Higher, narrower packs are more maneuverable and generally control loads better than shorter, squatty packs, but can be a bear to pack with real-life loads – especially bulky items. The Talon 44 is a nice compromise in this regard. Osprey’s own Atmos series, with their trampoline-style “airspeed” suspensions, are more responsive but are also heavier.

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 10
The “airscape” system provides lightweight ventilation through the use of contoured and die-cut foam, and netting.

I was the second to test this Talon 44 sample, and it exhibited more wear and tear than I’m used to seeing during a pack evaluation. Fabric snags and wear spots and a broken buckle are testament to the balancing act pack designers face when reducing weight. I’d caution anybody who hikes in very brushy conditions or subjects their packs to abrasive rock to be especially cautious of the Talon’s stretch fabric pockets. I’m also not sure the buckles can handle a lifetime of hard cinching. The pack bottom is a double layer of heavier fabric than used on most of the pack, so should endure reasonable abuse. The foam, webbing, zippers and mesh all came through the test in good condition.

Osprey Talon 44 Backpack REVIEW - 11
The Talon 44 suffered this broken buckle and some fabric wear.

What’s Unique

An effective frame-suspension multi-day pack that’s less than two-and-a-half pounds.

Recommendations for Improvement

  • Analyze fabrics and hardware in high stress/wear areas for adequate strength and toughness.
  • Lower sternum strap attachment points.
  • Consider adding a third, taller size.

White Box Stove REVIEW

While not the lightest around, this simple pressurised alcohol stove is remarkably robust.

White Box Stove The White Box stove, (image courtesy of White Box).
Note that in use the centre well is capped by the pot.

Overview

Unlike so many small alcohol stoves which are made from extremely light but very fragile bits of aluminium, the White Box Alcohol Can Stove is made from a more robust aluminium energy drink can. The construction is very simple, but the performance is, like many other similar pressurised alcohol stoves, quite powerful.

What’s Good

  • Robust!
  • Good alcohol capacity – 2 ounces
  • Quite powerful
  • Moderately stable on the ground

What’s Not So Good

  • Slow to prime
  • Flares when pot is removed
  • Not as light as some
  • Flame spread is much too wide for narrow pots and beer cans

Specifications

  Manufacturer

White Box (can be purchased via e-Bay or from www.gossamergear.com)

  Year/Model

2006 – Alcohol Can Stove

  Construction material

Aluminium drink can, ‘thick’-walled

  Construction process

Pressure fit and rivets

  Mechanical design

‘Pepsi-can’ style, 60 mm (2.3 in) diameter by 55 mm (2.1 in) high

  Jets

21, drilled around outside, 20 mm (¾ in) down from rim

  Alcohol capacity

Open centre well claimed to hold up to 2 oz denatured alcohol

  Stove style

Looks like an open jet, but pressurised in use

  Windscreen

Matching windscreen is included

  Burn time

Depends on amount of fuel used

  Target use

One or two people, can take heavy pots and heavy use

  BPL measured weight:

Stove: 30 g (1.06 oz), windshield 27 g (0.95 oz)

  MSRP

US$20

Description

There are several different classes of alcohol stoves, depending on your personal preferences, but one major classification is between pressurised and unpressurised ones. In all of them the alcohol has to boil to create the vapour for burning of course; in the pressurised ones the vapour usually comes out of a ring of holes around the side, As they rise up to the pot on top the flames heat the stove to keep the alcohol boiling. Inside the pressurised class we have two main categories: those which are inherently pressurised and those which have an open centre hole and are pressurised by the pot sitting on top blocking that central hole. The White Box Stove fits into the latter category.

Many stoves in this class are made from very light aluminium beer or coke drink cans. As such they can be a little susceptible to damage. This White Box Stove is made from a thicker aluminium drink bottle – think miniature SIGG water bottle or conventional white gas stove tank. As such, the wall is much thicker and stronger. The company claims the drink bottles they use have walls 3 to 4 times thicker than found in ‘Pepsi’ cans. I measured the wall thickness in the White Box Stove as 0.040 millimetres (0.0016 inch), while an energy-drink can I measured had a wall thickness of 0.010 millimetres (0.0004 inch). That is 4:1. To be sure, the alloy used in the drink bottle may not be quite as hard as the alloy in a ‘Pepsi’ can, but I can certainly feel the greater rigidity in the White Box Stove.

The windshield supplied with the stove is made of aluminium foil with all the edges folded over for safety. There are small holes punched along the bottom edge. The windshield is the normal 600 millimetres (24 inch) long by a slightly higher than normal 90 millimetres (3.5 inch), and it weighs 27 grams (0.95 ounces). This is almost as heavy as the stove, and I found myself taking a lighter (17 grams or 0.60 ounce) windshield in its place. However, the White Box windshield is probably more robust than the lighter one.

The White Box company claims (on their e-Bay web site) to have sold some 1,900 of these stoves. That is a very large number: it may be that the solidity of the stove is commercially attractive- very understandable. (It also means someone has drunk a huge number of drinks out of those cans – no comment!) The warranty offered with the stove is for a free replacement if you manage to ‘burn this stove out’. I doubt this has happened very often.

However, the extra strength carries two penalties, and the most obvious one is the weight. The White Box Stove weighs 30 grams (1.06 ounces), while the moderately similar Mini Bull Designs Elite stove weighs about 7 grams (0.25 ounce). Whether the extra robustness and slightly greater diameter of the White Box Stove justifies the (slight) extra weight is something each user will have to decide for himself. I would point out that the extra weight of the stove is rather small compared to the weight of alcohol you need to be carrying for a trip of almost any duration.

The second penalty only appears when you compare the operation of the White Box Stove with a lighter competitor. The White Box Stove seems to take longer to prime and get going compared to some competitors. The leaflet which comes with the stove suggests the stove may take a minute or more to get going properly, and this is what I found. Of course, it is burning up alcohol while it is getting up to speed. It is never clear (to me) whether quoted burn times and fuel quantities allow for this priming.

I think there are several reasons for the longer priming time. It is obvious that the greater mass of aluminium will take some extra heating, but it is not the full story. The larger size of the stove may also mean it takes longer for the flames to spread the heat all the way down into the alcohol. But I think the larger size of the stove compared to something as small as the Mini Bull Designs Elite stove may mean there is a bit of a tendency in practice to put just a bit more alcohol into this stove. Of course, the more alcohol you start with, the longer it will be before it has been heated up to boiling.

White Box Stove - 1 The White Box Stove sheltered by rock and windshield.
(Windshield open for the photo.)

Performance

The White Box company claims (on their e-Bay web site) that their testing ‘has shown it can boil 2 cups of water in approximately 4 minutes with only 2/3 ounce of fuel and we were able to boil 3 cups of water in less than 6 minutes with only 1 ounce of fuel. It has boiled 6 cups of water in 12 minutes with 2 ounces of fuel.’

I tested these claims with the supplied windshield and an AGG 2 quart (1.8 litre) pot. The windshield is 90 millimetres (3.5 inches) high, and was spaced about 15 millimetres (0.5 inch) out from the AGG pot. I was able to match the White Box performance claim only if I held the pot up above the flame as soon as I had lit the alcohol. I could not match these figures if I waited until the jets around the outside had started burning. I think you have to use a real metal pot holder (rather than a glove or bandanna) to hold the pot above the stove while it is priming, and that is extra weight. In practice therefore I think you can expect slightly longer boil times in the field.

The instructions which came with this stove claim you can light the alcohol by putting a ‘lighter down into the large top hole of the stove’. Don’t try it: you will burn your fingers! Even on a hot day (33 C or 91 F) in a closed lab, the alcohol vapour did not seem to reach to the rim. For these stoves I use a small stick dipped in the alcohol to transfer the flame down into the centre well. Once lit I found I had to wait a little over a minute before the flames were coming out of the jet properly. That is a lot of fuel-burning time.

Once the stove has flames coming out of the jets around the side I found that the jets do put out a lot of alcohol vapour, making the stove quite powerful. In fact I found that the flames were coming well up the side of the AGG 2 quart pot I was using – which is not such a good thing. It means that a significant fraction of the flame heat is being wasted up the sides. It seems that a fast heating rate usually does mean that the efficiency drops. This could be improved by having fewer jets or by having the jets slightly smaller.

The AGG pot used in for my bench testing is reasonably large: almost 150 millimetres (6 inches) diameter. Even so, as mentioned above the flames were licking way up the side of the pot. Putting a smaller pot such as the MSR Titan Kettle or, worse still, a beer can pot on it results in very high flames and a lot of wasted heat and fuel. Reaching such a narrow pot while the flames are licking up the sides becomes an ‘interesting exercise’ if you are not carrying a metal pot lifter. Frankly, I found it rather hazardous.

I thought that the flames from this stove look very long compared with the flames from a similar stove such as the Mini Bull Designs Elite. This makes me think this White Box stove should preferably be used with large pots, cooking for two people perhaps. However, balancing large pots such as the 1.4 litre (1.5 qt) GSI Bugaboo pot (190 millimetres or 7.5 in diameter) on such a small stove presents its own problems. The Mini Bull Designs Sketti stove handles this rather well by being much bigger in diameter and lower in height.

Other Hazards

The instructions do mention that once the stove is running you should not take the pot off it. If you do the boiling alcohol in the centre well will send a column of flame leaping upwards, and this can be quite dangerous. Do not have your head over the stove in such a situation! Also you should be very cautious about using this stove inside a tent or under a tarp for the same reasons.

The carbon monoxide emission from this stove is quite significant, as with many other alcohol stoves. Use of it inside a closed structure such as a hut or tent could be quite dangerous for this reason.

What’s Unique

  • The robustness of this stove is its unique feature.

Recommendations for Improvement

  • If the jets were made a little smaller to bring the flames a little more under control, the stove would be both a bit safer and more suitable for use with small ultra-light pots. It might also improve the efficiency in terms of alcohol used.

Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW

An old favorite gets a makeover, making it better than ever, but also a little heavier.

Overview

The Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR is a wide-based trail shoe that has become somewhat of a classic with ultralight enthusiasts because of its weather protection and stability on rugged ground. The upgraded model, introduced in fall 2006, retains key elements that made the original so successful, and adds some newer technologies and features. How does the new shoe compare with the old one?

Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
The upgraded Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR.

Montrail seems to know not to mess with success. The new Hurricane Ridge shoe has the same sawtooth tread, all-weather upper, stretch fit tongue, broad toe box, and medial post for pronation control. It still has its flared, stable base and low-to-the-ground ride. However, there are a lot of changes, so we will take a closer look.

Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
The new Hurricane Ridge’s outsole has a sawtooth tread very similar to the old model, and now uses Gryptonite GT sticky rubber to add extra traction.

Advancements in the new Hurricane Ridge include improved forefoot flexibility, a modified tongue to improve ease of entry, more mesh in the upper, a full-length protection plate, a stiffer heel cup, molded strap to provide more ankle stability, and a four-density EVA midsole, extra cushioning under the heel (called TerraHex), and new Gryptonite GT sticky rubber in the outsole. We won’t attempt to explain all of this, but suffice it to say that the new Hurricane Ridge embodies the newest technologies from Montrail.

These upgrades come with a weight penalty. Our measured weight of the new shoe for men’s size 12 is 3.6 ounces more than the old model.

When we compared the upgraded model to the previous model, we noted numerous changes throughout the shoe. It’s basically a makeover without sacrificing any of the key attributes of the old shoe. We did notice that the tread is a little narrower, mainly because the rand does not extend out past the edge of the upper. The broad toe box is unchanged, but the shape of the toe box has changed – the widest part of the toe box on the new model is further forward (see photo below). The modified tongue still makes entry a bit tight, but it seals well around the ankle to keep snow and debris out. We did not notice any change in forefoot flexibility over the old model. If anything, it seems slighter stiffer. And the new model has more exposed mesh in the upper for better breathability.

Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 3
The new Hurricane Ridge XCR shoe (left) is a little taller than its predecessor (right), and has a little more rocker (toe area upturned more).

The fit of the new model is not identical to the old model. For Will, the old model fit his wide feet better than the new model, because the widest part of his foot (the metatarsal head) is further back from the toe end and better matches the toe box of the older model. The toe box of the newer model is also wide, but the widest part is further forward. Thus the toe box on the newer model felt tighter for Will. Janet, who has more normal feet, had no fit issues. The point we are making here is – don’t assume that the fit of the new model is identical to the old one.

Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 4
Looking down (left), the numerous changes in the upper are apparent (new model on the left, old one on the right). The toe box (left and right photos) is just as wide as the previous model, but the shape is different. The insoles (right) show the shape difference quite well; the widest part of the toe box is further forward on the new model.

We used the old and new Hurricane Ridge as our WP/B trail runner of choice in our Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel project (to be published soon) and loved it. The outside fabrics on this shoe don’t absorb water, so we didn’t have any problem with the uppers soaking down to the membrane, which adds weight and chills the feet.

For snowshoeing, hiking in snow, or hiking/backpacking in wet conditions and warmer temperatures (above about 25 °F), these shoes are hard to beat. Their broad base with its grippy sawtooth tread gets superb traction, they are very stable and supportive in rough terrain, they’re very durable, and they’re reliably waterproof (most of the time). Worn with a tight-fitting gaiter over the top, these shoes stayed dry inside (except for some sweat accumulation) the majority of the time. Only in the most challenging situations, like hiking for hours in really wet snow, did the shoes wet through enough to dampen socks (we wore a vapor barrier sock next to our feet, so we know it wasn’t sweat accumulation).

At higher exertion levels, the Gore-Tex membrane does not transfer moisture to the outside as fast as its generated, so there was some moisture accumulation in our socks and the lining of the shoes. In cold temperatures, our feet stayed warm as long as we kept moving, but tended to chill if we stopped very long. We found the best solution for chilly toes was to change socks when our feet felt damp.

Will especially liked the room the wide toe box provides for his wide feet (especially the older model) and the snug seal around the ankle that keeps snow and debris out. We both found these shoes especially supportive and stable in rough terrain and an excellent choice for ultralight backpacking when wet conditions are expected.

Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR Shoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 5
The Hurricane Ridge XCR (old model shown) is a great all-around shoe for cool weather and wet conditions, and grips exceptionally well on a variety of surfaces. Here Will is climbing some ancient moki steps in southern Utah.

The only downside is the tread tends to fill up with mud and it takes a long time for it to clean out by itself.

Features and Specifications

  • Manufacturer: Montrail (www. Montrail.com)
  • Sizes: Men’s 7-15, Women’s 5-11
  • Features: Gore-Tex XCR lining, IntegralFit (snug heel, wide toe box), TerraHex heel cushioning, four-density EVA midsole, medial posting for pronation control, full length protection plate, Gryptonite GT sticky rubber in the outsole, slipper-type tongue opening
  • Weight: Measured weight men’s size 12 is 35.6 oz/pair (1009 g); manufacturer specification 28 oz/pair, men’s size 9 (794 g)
  • MSRP: $125 US

The eVENT Single Wall Tent: Here, Then Gone – What’s Replacing It?

Single wall tents made of the more-breathable-than-Gore-Tex eVENT fabric caused a lot of excitement upon their introduction a few years ago. At last, a nearly condensation free single wall tent was possible. Then suddenly, eVENT tents were no longer available. Now a new wave of fabrics touted as “highly breathable” are appearing in single wall tents. What happened? Are these new fabrics as good as eVENT?

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SteriPEN Adventurer Water Purifier REVIEW

A reasonably light and very effective means of purifying water to EPA purifier standards.

Introduction

There is nothing worse than getting sick while out walking, and one cause is contaminated water. A big problem is you very often do not know whether the water in front of you is safe or not. There may be ‘bugs’ in the water: very small viruses, middle-sized bacteria or largish protozoa. There are four common ways used to convert water of doubtful quality into something you can safely drink – or to make those bugs harmless.

  • Boiling – takes a lot of time and fuel, leaves water hot or tasting ‘flat’
  • Filtering – does not take out the very small viruses
  • Chemicals – do not always work reliably, may take hours to be effective 1
  • UV light – as reviewed here

Boiling, though it consumes fuel and time, is very effective if you do it as part of cooking. Filters can be heavy, have limited filter life and with one exception filters do not remove viruses. Since those little rotaviruses (for example) are responsible for a lot of dysentery, it is unfortunate that filters let them through. There are a lot of different chemicals on the market for treating water, including iodine, chlorine and chlorine dioxide, but they all have the serious problems of residual smell and taste. In addition some by-products of these chemicals are not very nice.

The chemicals do work quite well against most viruses and bacteria and are very widely used for this purpose. However, their efficacy against protozoans (such as Giardia lamblia and Cryptospordium spp.) in cyst form2 is questionable within the short contact times suggested by most manufacturers (

Lacking a quick, perfectly effective chemical treatment, we are left with UV light, which has been used to deal with ‘bugs’ and purify water as far back as 1910. It has been used commercially for applications such as bottling plants and extensively for chemical-free community water supplies, and its popularity is increasing. However, you should note that UV treatment has no effect on any chemicals which might be in the water – especially nasties like agro-chemicals, solvents and so on. You will need to watch where you get your water from – but you’re probably doing that already.

What’s Good

  • Effortless operation
  • Lighter than any filter
  • Works for all bugs to EPA standards
  • Treats 1 litre (1 quart) in 90 seconds
  • No chemical smells or residuals
  • Can use rechargeable batteries

What’s Not So Good

  • It isn’t cheap
  • It relies on batteries, which it loads very heavily
  • Batteries are a little expensive (but cheaper than most filter cartridges)
  • I worry about breaking the quartz lamp cover
  • Solar Charger is a bit heavy – an overkill design

Specifications

  Manufacturer

Hydro-Photon Inc

  Year/Model

2006 SteriPEN Adventurer

  Weight

  • Basic Unit with Lamp cover and batteries 101 g (3.56 oz)
  • Nylon Sheath 28 g (1 oz)
  • Two spare CR123 Lithium cells 31 g (1.1 oz)
  • Solar Charger 160 g (5.64 oz)
  • Foam cover 26 g (0.92 oz)

  Size

  • SteriPEN Adventurer 160 x 40 x 23 mm (6.2 x 1.5 x 0.9 in)
  • Solar Charger 180 x 90 x 35 mm (7 x 3.5 x 1.3 in)

  SteriPEN Adventurer Case

Plastic, non-slippery

  Lamp housing

Quartz

  UV wavelength

254 nm, in the deep UV-C range

  UV transmission

Negligible through common plastics and glass

  System Control

Embedded microprocessor with safety interlocks

  Estimated battery life

About 60 L (60 qt) for 2 non-rechargeable cells in warm weather

  Solar Cell Area

130 x 55 mm (5 x 2.2 in)

  MSRP

US$129.95 for SteriPEN Adventurer; US$49.95 for the solar charger

Caution

A serious caution should be given here as this whole area of water treatment or purification is a minefield. Each vendor of a purification product will present a threatening analysis of the water problem and a glowing analysis of the effectiveness of the product he or she is selling. Unfortunately, while the sales pitches may be fairly truthful they are not always complete. I have found that the bits which get glossed over or left out are sometimes rather critical. Well, I guess no manufacturer wants to tell you the bad bits. Also, there is a specialised jargon involved, as discussed below. It can all be very confusing.

However, I am also aware that some products on the market are relatively ineffectual, and others use a lot of ‘weasel words’ in their claims. The manager of AccuFilter went too far and ended up in jail in 1996 for fraud after being prosecuted by the EPA for the second time. On the other hand, the information provided with the SteriPEN Adventurer seems complete and credible.

In real life many walkers never bother treating their water: they are just careful where they get it from – and they survive. If you combine this caution with the UV treatment, you should be doing well.

Method of SteriPEN Operation

Each photon of UV light contains some energy, and if the wavelength of the UV light is short enough the energy can be sufficient to cause a change somewhere in the chemical bonds inside the bugs. For instance, if the bug has DNA, the UV light can cause the thymine bases in the DNA to lock up with each other, which prevents the bugs from replicating (breeding). In general, if the bugs can’t breed and multiply inside you, they can’t do you any harm. Of course, you need fairly energetic photons for this, but light in the UV-C band can do this. A common source of this is a discharge lamp emitting at 254 nanometres (nm), although some fluorescent lamps can also be used. The EPA has a lengthy document 3 on the whole subject, although it is primarily focused on industrial-sized systems.

Large discharge lamps with adequate power came first; very small ones with enough power were developed only more recently. The SteriPEN uses one such small UV-C lamp, which looks very similar to the Philips TUV4T5 Germicidal Sterilamp used in the Aquastar product. The SteriPEN Adventurer uses a microprocessor to control the operation and is powered by two CR123 (photo) lithium batteries. The company claims the lamp will provide at least 9,000 effective doses of UV but to be on the safe side they have limited the operation to 5,000 doses, and the unit gives a warning when you have passed 4,900 doses. They can replace the lamp. I would add that 5,000 doses is a lot of water treated.

Effectiveness of UV-C light and the SteriPEN Adventurer

It’s no use taking something which is not going to work. Those home-made gravity-powered filters using a plug of cotton wool may be very light and very cheap, but they are not going to stop any viruses, nor any bacteria, and probably won’t stop protozoa. They might make the water look clean and give you a happy feeling, but that feeling might change to unhappiness a day later if you get dysentery. There are EPA standards for water purification which are designed to protect your health, and it is wise to use a purification method which meets those standards. In passing, you should note that while many filters meet the EPA standards for protozoa and bacteria they do not normally meet the standard for viruses. Only a product which meets the EPA standards for all three sorts of bugs can qualify as a ‘purifier’: the use of the word is legally restricted in this context.

It has long been known that UV light can disable viruses and bacteria. Up until recently it was thought that UV light could not kill protozoa, but in the 90s it was found that researchers were asking the wrong question. UV light does not ‘kill’ the protozoa, but it does stop them from reproducing inside your gut, and as explained above if they can’t breed they can’t hurt you. Once this was understood the popularity of UV-C treatment for community water treatment started to rise. However, some non-UV water-purification companies still do not even acknowledge UV treatment as an option.

While this may be getting a shade esoteric, field tests have shown that our waterways are starting to show traces of certain hormones, antibiotics, fragments of recombinant DNA and RNA and other complex biological agents. They are coming from industrial processes, agricultural wastes and sewage treatment plants. I have seen data that suggests the same UV radiation will incapacitate some of these nasties as well.

The big question then is whether the SteriPEN Adventurer meets EPA standards and whether it has EPA registration. I asked the company about this, and they replied:

While our company is registered with the US EPA (company number – 73679), the EPA does not certify non-chemical water purifiers. As SteriPEN uses no chemicals it is not certified by the EPA. Non chemical systems such as ours and filters may be tested to the EPA standard. If these non-chemical systems meet the requirements of the EPA protocol then their literature generally states “meets US EPA protocol.”

According to the Lab Test Reports I have read the SteriPEN Adventurer (and the older Classic) do meet the EPA requirements for treating all three sorts of bugs, and the SteriPEN Adventurer is advertised as a ‘water purification device.’ Backpacking Light has no means of running the very complex biological tests required for this so we will rely on the work of the independent test labs. I am satisfied by these reports.

Description

Steripen - 1 The SteriPEN Adventurer.

The pre-production prototype unit we received is shown here. The main difference between it and the production version seems to be the direction of the printing by the button. The black and yellow body holds two CR123 lithium (photo) batteries and the electronics needed to drive the UV lamp and control the operation. The little red arrow at the bottom of the picture points to a small pushbutton, which is the only control on the whole unit. The little green arrow to the right points to a LED which shines either red or green. The blue arrow points to a metal electrode: there is one of these on each side of the unit and they sense the presence of water. Somewhere inside the unit there is a lamp temperature sensor. The long glass tube is a strong quartz envelope enclosing the UV lamp itself. When traveling it is wise to put the cover over the lamp: it clips on very firmly.

To operate the unit you remove the cover from over the lamp, press the button once (for 1 litre) or twice (for 0.5 litre), and put the unit in the water to be treated. The metal electrodes must be below the surface of the water. The lamp comes on and stays on for the required time, then turns off. You are advised to stir the lamp around in the water a bit to make sure you irradiate all the water. The length of exposure depends on the number of button presses and the temperature of the unit; the microprocessor will calculate this for you. The variation in dosage time due to temperature is not large. There is some variation in efficiency of UV generation with temperature. The UV action on the bugs is not significantly affected by the water temperature.

The manual or booklet which came with the pre-production version had very brief operating instructions on page 3, while the rest of the booklet was devoted to marketing waffle. This is a pity – a smaller booklet with better instructions would have been appreciated. It may be that the production version will be better. Ultra-lightweight walkers may take some exception to the ridiculous claim on page 2 that ‘With the SteriPEN Adventurer, you’re carrying hundreds of gallons of pure water in your backpack …’ However, maybe I am being too harsh.

Safety Matters

Steripen - 2 Blue Light coming from the lamp – or not, depending on the angle of view.

If exposure to the UV light can bump off the bugs, what will it do to you? This is the obvious question. This was addressed in a document entitled ‘Common Questions’ which I received, but I am not sure whether this document normally ships with the SteriPEN unit. As the document explains, UV light will not go through either glass or the common plastics; these materials block the UV. In addition, the company says the UV light bounces off the water/air interface at the top of the bottle.

In the pictures to the left the discharge can be seen in picture A, but it seems to be missing in picture B. In the case of picture B the lamp is still on, but the viewing angle from above is such that the blue light is being reflected off the water/air interface. In picture A you can see the blue light, but this is visible blue light, not the UV-C light. The UV has been blocked by the glass wall of the bottle. You can see visible blue light from the top of the water. The company claims that the UV light will not escape in this way but will rather be reflected off the water/air interface. They claim to have checked this with a UV light meter.

Another obvious concern is the effect on your eyes if you could turn the unit on before putting it in the water and got the UV in your eyes. Well, you can press the button, but the microprocessor has a mind of its own and for reasons of safety won’t turn the lamp on until it senses water at the metal electrodes. For this to happen the lamp has to be underwater. So far so good. If you take the lamp out of the water while the UV lamp is running the microprocessor will detect the loss of water and shut the lamp off in about one second. It will also turn the LED on with a red colour as a warning that the treatment time was not completed. However, it takes about a second or two for the loss of water to be sensed, and in this time the UV light may be shining in your eyes, so don’t pull the unit out of the water while it is turned on!

So why can’t you put the unit in the water first, before pressing the button? The reason is again safety. It would be safe enough if the lamp really was under water, but this may not be so. If the bottom of the unit is wet from the last immersion, the water sensor can be fooled into thinking that the unit is under water even when it is out of the water. The unit could be fooled into thinking it was safely under water and thus turn on in your hand as soon as you press the button – and blast your eyes. To prevent this the microprocessor has a rule that the water sensor must be ‘dry’ when you press the button for it to work. There is a trap here: if the bottom of the unit is still wet from the last immersion when you press the button, the unit may refuse to operate. You may have to brush the sensors dry with a bit of rag before you push the buttons. I was caught a couple of times like this.

Field Testing

This unit may have only one (input) button and one (output) LED, but it does have a microprocessor inside it, and using it sometimes seems almost as complex as programming a VCR. Well, not quite, but I found the following ‘features’ from testing and reading the User Guide.

  • You have to turn the unit on before you put the lamp in the water.
            That is, putting the lamp in the water first does not work!
  • Pressing the button once turns the green LED on, first steady, then flashing fairly quickly.
            The unit requires quite a definite press of the button to work: it is not hair trigger
  • Pressing the button a second time makes the green LED flash quickly anyhow.
  •         However, I can’t tell beforehand whether it has been set to treat 1 litre or 0.5 litre.

  • The green LED goes off when the UV lamp goes on.
            But if it flashes slowly while the lamp is on it means you are between 4,900 and 5,000 cycles: a warning.
  • When the treatment is complete the LED will either flash slowly (for 1 L) or just stay on (for 0.5 L).
            More importantly the UV lamp goes off, which is much more noticeable.
  • If you take the unit out of the water before the time is up the UV lamp goes off within about 1 second and the LED glows red.
            but putting the lamp back in the water does not turn the UV lamp back on.
  • If you leave the unit turned on in the air, it will time out after about 15 seconds and turn off by itself.
            It is supposed to give one red flash when it times out.
  • Red flashing is obviously a warning, and has two meanings:
            fast flashing: low batteries – flashes for 8 seconds.
            slow flashing: lamp has done 5,000 operations and should be replaced.
  • You can cancel the operation when the LED has turned red by pressing the button for a moment.
  • You must dry the two sensors before you try to treat the second batch, or it may think the unit is in water still.
            This can be a real trap if you are not thinking!
  • Getting the lamp cover off is hard work: do it carefully so you do not break the lamp!
  • There is no residual disinfection property like with chlorine and iodine.
            More care may therefore be needed to keep the treated water clean.

Steripen - 3 Putting the SteriPEN in various water containers: it does not work with small-necked PET bottles.

Not listed above as a feature is the speed of operation, but that is because it is worth a separate comment. I have used most of the available filters over the years, and they take time to set up and then you have to sit there and pump for a while. That is, if you don’t have to stop and clean the filter half-way through. The pumping can be hard work. With the SteriPEN Adventurer I just sit there and stir gently for 90 seconds. Well, to be honest, my wife often does it while I do other things. With chemicals it does not take long to drop a pill in the water, or to mix Part A with Part B, but then you have to wait for 15 – 30 minutes (or more) before the water is safe. When you are thirsty, this can be a long time … I find I can wait the 90 seconds for the SteriPEN Adventurer fairly easily.

I did find that the SteriPEN Adventurer does not fit into every possible water container. In particular, it does not fit down the neck of my favourite ultra-light PET water bottles – which come free with every 1.25 litre bottle of fizzy mineral water. So using the SteriPEN has meant I have had to change how I treat our drinking water: now I do it in our cooking pot, with continuous stirring. I can pour the treated water into a bottle later. Mind you, since the lamp radiates out sideways rather than downwards the shape of the pot is just right for the light distribution from the lamp. I don’t think trying to treat water in a tall thin bottle is a good idea anyhow as the bottom region would not get much light. Alan Dixon has used a wide-mouthed hydration bladder for treating his water, as shown in the middle picture here, but the height of the bladder could be a problem. I don’t suggest you do it this way.

You should note that pouring water from one bottle into another after UV treatment is not without a risk: there is no residual purifying action once the lamp has been turned off. With Coghlans iodine tablets I know there is a trace of iodine still in the water which can handle later contamination. Since I currently use the same type of PET bottles for treated and untreated water, I have to be very careful to distinguish between the two (I put a spare rubber band around the neck of the treated water bottle)! Still, I can always use a little bit of the treated water to rinse out a ‘contaminated’ bottle; the chance of a harmful number of bugs being left in the bottle after doing that is very low.

Needless to say, my testing has been done on fairly clear water. After all, if the water is so turbid you can’t see through it then the UV light won’t get through it to the bugs either. It may make some sense to filter any mucky water through a bandanna or similar first – or to find better water if you can. But more importantly the presence of a small amount of dirt or organic matter in the water will not greatly affect the operation of UV light. This is very different from using a chemical, where organic matter in the water will soak up the chemical and may leave the bugs alive.

The User Guide recommends you do not use the SteriPEN when it is at a temperature below freezing. There are two good reasons for this. The first is that water below freezing may be … ice. Bit hard to stir the SteriPEN Adventurer in a block of ice! The second is that battery life for the 3 volt CR123A lithium cells does fall badly below freezing as shown in the graph below, and you need to look after those batteries. You may be aware that the Eveready e2 1.5 volt AA and AAA lithium cells have much better life in the cold than this, but that is because they have a different chemistry. The SteriPEN Adventurer is quite small, so it is no hassle to stick it in your pocket for a while to warm up.

I have found that people are sometimes more willing to use UV disinfection than chemicals because they want to avoid both the smell and taste of the chemicals, and to avoid their by-products. This is not a quantitative assessment, but for many walkers it is a real issue. One thing I can say is that the SteriPEN Adventurer does not seem to alter the taste of the water at all. This method of UV treatment may be the wave of the future.

Batteries

With the SteriPEN Adventurer you are dependent on the life of the two CR123A lithium batteries, and those little batteries are not cheap. A good pair of these will cost in the region of US$12 – US$14, although cheaper ones may be available (with less life). You can also use the unit with rechargeable lithium cells, and the company sells a padded carry case with a built-in solar panel on the lid for recharging. The company claims that the cost of operation amounts to about 11 cents per gallon (4 liters) purified with rechargeable batteries, but I have no idea how much they are paying for their batteries, and prices and quality can vary widely. Testing was done with both the rechargeable CR123A cells and the readily available standard CR123A non-rechargeable lithium cells.

Steripen - 4 Life of a CR123 under pulsed load (courtesy Duracell).

The current drain from the batteries starts out at about 1 Amp: this is a lot for the little CR123 cells. Fortunately they were designed for photographic use and can take that sort of load in short bursts. After about a minute, when the lamp has warmed up, the current drain drops to about 0.9 Amps. This represents a load of about 2.7 Watts (per cell), and typical battery life at that sort of continuous load is about 0.85 hours to 2.0 volts and 1.0 hours to 1.55 volts. I do not know the minimum voltage which the SteriPEN Adventurer will operate at as this is a little hard to test. However, this does not matter very much since when these cells reach their end of life the cell voltage falls quite fast.

With a pulsed load the life of the CR123A cell is longer, and we can treat the SteriPEN as a pulsed load, albeit a fairly harsh one. Using a graph from Duracell, we can see (thin blue cross hairs on the red line) that at 0.9 Amps and a low duty cycle the life of a cell can be as long as about 1,800 x 3 seconds to 2.0 volts, at ‘room temperature’ (RT). This is 90 minutes. The SteriPEN Adventurer takes about 90 seconds to treat 1 litre of water. This suggests that one set of CR123A Lithium cells will treat 60 litres of water, at ‘room temperature.’ At US$13 for two cells, that is about 22 cents per litre. I can’t tell you how many days walking this translates to as everyone’s water use is different. Remember that if you are going to boil some of your water for cooking, you do not need to treat that part with UV first.

The graph also illustrates the very bad effect sub-zero temperatures have on battery life! You can happily use the SteriPEN Adventurer in the snow if you warm it and especially the batteries up to body temperature first.

Steripen - 5 SteriPEN Adventurer battery compartment.

Replacing the batteries in the field is very simple with the SteriPEN Adventurer. The end cap is held in place by a screw, but this has a huge head with a huge slot (red arrow) which I can operate with my thumbnail or almost anything. It does not seem to jam at all. Undo the screw and the cap comes off. The batteries just slide out. Insert new ones with the small terminal pointed upwards as shown in the picture and replace the cap – there is a small retaining lug at the right hand side of the picture below the green arrow to hook in place. If you forget and put the batteries in upside down it does not matter as nothing will happen. There is a shaped contact at the tip of the green arrow which will only mate with the small battery terminal; it won’t connect with the large terminal at the other end of the battery. I won’t say it is foolproof, but it comes close. Check that the new batteries work by pressing the button. The green LED should come on. You can either now use the unit to purify water or just leave it alone. After a little while (about 15 seconds) the microprocessor will get tired of waiting, flash the red LED once and then cancel the operation.

If you are going to store the unit in the drawer for a long while between trips you are advised to take the batteries out during storage. I found the unit does draw a few milliamps when turned ‘off.’ This is because the microprocessor is running all the time, obediently waiting for your next command. This takes power. It is easy to take the batteries in and out between trips. The metal screw on the cap engages with a metal nut on the body (rather than plastic), giving the fastener a long life.

Steripen - 6 SteriPEN Solar Charger, open and shut, showing solar panel.

Solar Charger

The SteriPEN Adventurer will also take two rechargeable 3 volt CR123A batteries, but recharging these requires a special recharger. I have not seen any suitable generic rechargers on the market, but SteriPEN sells a solar-powered recharger for these called the SteriPEN Solar Charger. The charger’s case will also protect the SteriPEN Adventurer and comes with a foam cover (not shown) that can be tied onto the top of your pack. The company says the Solar Charger can recharge a pair of the CR123A cells in about 2 days if the sun is good, but if you recharge the batteries every day it certainly won’t take that long to top them up. For instance, if you have treated a few litres of water in the evening it should charge up with an hour or two of reasonable sunshine the next morning. I am not sure how one tells when the batteries are fully charged this way, but I gather the Solar Charger won’t hurt the batteries.

This is an interesting concept, but the empty Solar Charger weighs 160 grams (5.64 oz) while a pair of spare batteries weighs only 30 grams (1.06 oz). Each pair of rechargeable batteries will treat about 50 litres (100 pt) of water. The extra weight of the Solar Charger seems an unnecessary burden while walking – in general you would be better off taking spare batteries. I have yet to consider giving the Solar Charger the ‘UL treatment’ to reduce its weight for very long thru-hikes – that would of course completely void the warranty.

The Solar Charger can also be driven by a universal plug pack from the mains, and this option is far more useful in my opinion. The plug pack can take anywhere from 90 volts to 240 volts, which means it can be used around the world. (Australia, where I live, uses 240 volts). The plug pack has pins for an American wall socket, but adapters can be bought. The plug pack connects at the hole in the side of the Solar Charger shown with the red arrow. There is a red LED beside that hole: this glows brightly while charging, and dimly (if at all) when the batteries are fully charged. I guess it measures the current flow. This option seems to me to be the one I will use most of the time.

The Future

Frankly, I think that disinfection by UV has enormous potential for outdoors use. The current ‘wand’ may be a little heavier than we would like, and certainly the drain on the batteries is fairly severe. Within a few years I would hope to see suitable UV LEDS being available, and I am sure the company will be very eager to release an LED-based wand with ten times the battery life, running off two lithium AA cells. When this happens I want to see the UV light shining downwards into the depths of the bottle rather than out sideways as it does now. I can dream – in the meantime this unit works fairly well.

Ideally, when the new unit is introduced a new lighter solar panel might accompany it. This should be a flat unit consisting of just the solar cells, with a power lead coming out and a small socket on the new wand. That way you could recharge the cells in the wand while you walk.

What’s Unique

  • No chemicals – no taste (feature shared with Aquastar unit)
  • No long waits (feature shared with Aquastar unit)
  • Lightest UV treatment unit on the market
  • Comes with field recharger

Recommendations for Improvement

  • Move to UV LEDs
  • Have the UV light shine downwards into the bottle as well as sideways
  • Reduce current drain
  • Switch to two lithium 1.5 volt AA or AAA cells
  • Lighter Solar Charger panel, scrap the case

Footnotes

  1. eg Chlorine dioxide at 5 C (41 F) against Giardia and Crypto.
  2. Vendors of different chemicals may try to dispute this, but that’s what comes out of independent academic research.
  3. http://www.epa.gov/safewater/disinfection/lt2/pdfs/guide_lt2_uvguidance_draft.pdf

NEOS Trekker Overshoe SPOTLITE REVIEW

A versatile and durable waterproof/non-breathable overshoe suitable for snowshoeing, snow play, and snow camping in frigid temperatures, but heavier than we would like.

Overview

The NEOS Trekker Overshoe is 20 inches tall, weighs 2 pounds/pair and comes in sizes S-XXL to fit over most any shoe or boot. Its sister, the Villager, is 10 inches tall and weighs 1.6 pounds. We evaluated the Trekker as part of a project to identify Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel (to be published soon), and tested them while snowshoeing and snow camping in frigid temperatures. How well did they do?

 NEOS Trekker Overshoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
The NEOS Trekker Overshoe (left) weighs 2 pounds/pair. The compression-molded sole (right) is welded to the upper to make the unit completely waterproof.

First, a description of the Trekker. The outsole is made of NEOS Superlite, which is a compression molded rubber. The upper is 160-denier pack cloth with a 2.5 millimeter polyurethane coating on the inside to make it totally waterproof (and non-breathable). The upper is attached to the outsole using a RF Weld process that makes a single watertight unit. It has a large top opening with a wrap-around and Velcro closure. A strap and quick-release buckle at the ankle tightens the overshoe around the foot.

 NEOS Trekker Overshoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
With the ankle strap released and top opened, the Trekker has a huge opening to insert your foot, so it’s easy to put on and take off. The wrap-around closure requires quite a bit of fabric.

 NEOS Trekker Overshoe SPOTLITE REVIEW - 3
We used the Trekker overshoes a lot for cold weather snowshoeing, igloo building, and snow camping. During the day we wore them over lightweight trail runners, and at night we wore insulated booties inside the overshoes. (Left photo by Rick Hagar.)

The Trekker Overshoe has a snowshoe compatible heel, meaning it has a ridge on the back to keep the snowshoe’s heel strap from slipping off. We found the overboots fit the binding on a number of different snowshoes, but size XL reached the limit of the heel strap on the popular Northern Lites snowshoes.

Both of us wore the Trekker Overshoes while snowshoeing, igloo building, and snow camping. Janet especially liked them because she could wear lightweight trail shoes inside them, and add neoprene booties over her shoes for extra insulation when needed. She had condensation buildup inside the Trekker Overshoes only in warmer conditions and when snowshoeing all day. Will wore the Trekker Overshoes while building an igloo and while ice fishing, with little condensation buildup inside. However, when he wore them while breaking trail with snowshoes all day in cold weather, he had heavy condensation on the inside walls of the overshoes at the end of the day. In camp, he had to wipe the moisture out of the overshoes with a rag before he could wear his insulated booties inside the overshoes for evening warmth.

For hiking, our opinion is the Trekker Overshoe is suited only for shorter distances. For hiking longer distances in snow, we would much prefer to wear an insulated WP/B boot with a gaiter. Besides snowshoeing, these overshoes are also very useful footwear for shoveling snow and various snow play activities.

Overall, the NEOS Trekker Overshoe is well constructed and very durable, but it’s heavier than we would like and it’s condensation prone. For snowshoeing and snow camping, it performs best in colder weather at low to moderate exertion levels. Since it is non-breathable, it tends to accumulate condensation on the inside walls in warmer weather and higher exertion. We would like to see NEOS develop a version of their overshoe with a waterproof/breathable zippered upper to give it more breathability and reduce the weight.

Features and Specifications

  • Manufacturer: NEOS (www.overshoe.com)
  • Product: Trekker Overshoe
  • Sizes: S-XXL
  • Materials: Outsole is NEOS Superlite, upper is 160d pack cloth polyurethane-coated on the inside
  • Features: Lightweight outsole, durable coated pack cloth upper, ankle tightening strap, molded outsole, snowshoe compatible heel
  • Weight: Measured weight for size XL 30.2 oz/pair (856 g), size S 23.4 oz/pair (692 g); manufacturer specification 32 oz/pair (907 g)
  • MSRP: $74.99

Manzella Silkweight Windstopper Glove SPOTLITE REVIEW

Stretchy, grippy, warm gloves that weigh only 1.6 ounces per pair.

Overview

Looking for a pair of lightweight warm grippy gloves for backpacking? The Manzella Silkweight Windstopper glove packs a lot of performance into 1.6 ounces (size L). For outdoor aerobic activities down to about freezing, we found these gloves surprisingly warm and comfortable. Their dexterity is wonderful and their grippy palms hold a hiking pole so well our hands feel naked without them.

Manzella Silkweight Windstopper Glove SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
The Manzella Silkweight Windstopper glove topside and palm side.

The gloves are made of Gore Windstopper N2S fabric which is a three-layer construction that stretches to fit and breathes well. We found the gloves comfortable to wear while actively hiking in temperatures down to about freezing, and wear them the year-around in those conditions. As claimed, they are windproof and quite breathable, we rarely had sweaty hands while wearing them. However, their claim to be water-resistant is a bit optimistic. We found the water resistance to be minimal, and learned to avoid contact with water or snow so the gloves stay dry and warm.

Manzella Silkweight Windstopper Glove SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
The glove’s horizontal stretch provides a good fit, and its Control Trax laminate on the palm (visible in the first photo) reduces wear and grips a hiking pole very well.

These gloves have amazing dexterity. We could easily leave the gloves on while reaching in a pocket, or in a pack, or picking up something small.

Manzella Silkweight Windstopper Glove SPOTLITE REVIEW - 3
The gloves’ nemesis is fingertip wear. We made it a point to avoid really abrasive surfaces like Utah sandstone, but the finger tips still wore from normal use. A durable cap of some type on the finger tips would really help to prolong the gloves’ lifespan.

Overall, we are very pleased with the design, materials, and performance of the Manzella Silkweight Windstopper glove. We just wish the finger tips were more durable so that part will last as long as the rest of the glove.

Features and Specifications

  • Manufacturer: Manzella Productions, Inc. (http://manzella.com/)
  • Sizes: S, M, L, XL
  • Fabric: Gore Windstopper N2S
  • Features: Windproof, breathable, Control Trax Grip on palm side, elastic wrist band
  • Weight: Measured weight size Small 1.4 oz/pair (40 g), size L 1.6 oz/pair (45 g); manufacturer specification n/a.
  • MSRP: $30 US

MontBell Stretch Gaiter SPOTLITE REVIEW

Designed for minimum weight and maximum functionality, but a little too small for big feet.

Overview

In our project on Lightweight Footwear Systems for Snow Travel (to be published soon), we were looking for the lightest gaiter we could find that also performed well over snowshoeing and snow hiking footwear. We found the lightest one in the Montbell Stretch Gaiter, but its fit depends on the shoe type and size.

 Montbell Stretch Gaiter SPOTLITE REVIEW - 1
The Montbell Stretch Gaiter is made of Schoeller Dynamic Extreme fabric and weighs only 1.3 ounces/pair for size Medium, shown over women’s size 6.5 trail runners.

The Montbell Stretch Gaiter, as the name implies, is very stretchy. Its Schoeller Dynamic Extreme fabric has a two-way stretch, but much more vertical stretch than horizontal. This stretch-woven fabric is durable, water-repellent, and very breathable.

These gaiters are designed to minimize weight and maximize functionality. There is no Velcro opening so they must be pulled on before putting on shoes. They have a metal lace hook attached to a webbing pinch loop to grab it. And they have a clever tightener (consisting of a simple Hypalon tab) on the underfoot shock cord stirrup. The shock cord even has a knob on it to grab for tightening.

 Montbell Stretch Gaiter SPOTLITE REVIEW - 2
Each gaiter has a clever tensioning system consisting of a simple Hypalon tab that the elastic cord runs through. Simply pull on the cord to tighten it. There is also a pinch loop on the lace hook to make it easier to grab.

We tested the gaiters over snowshoeing and snow hiking footwear. The size Medium gaiter fit over all of Janet’s footwear (size 6.5), easily covering the tops of her trail running shoes and taller boots (above photos). For Janet, the Montbell Stretch Gaiter was an easy choice for her favorite.

 Montbell Stretch Gaiter SPOTLITE REVIEW - 3
On Will, the Montbell Stretch Gaiter in size Large was a full stretch to cover the tops of his size 12 trail running shoes. They fit over Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR shoes, but tended to slip off the heel of New Balance 872 shoes (inset photo). They fit well over taller boots, but again it was a full stretch.

Although the season wasn’t quite right for hiking in shorts, we tried the Montbell Gaiters on over trail runners with summer weight socks and bare legs. The fit over our shoes was just fine, and the top binding was not too tight on our legs.

We found the gaiters to be very water-resistant. After each snow hike we weighed the gaiters and found they absorbed only 0.2 to 0.3 ounce of water, mostly in the top and bottom bindings.

Overall, the Montbell Stretch Gaiters are an excellent choice for ultralight hiking. They are exceptionally well designed and made of a high quality fabric. However, there appears to be a need for one more size a little larger to bit bigger shoes.

Specifications and Features

  • Manufacturer: Montbell (www.montbell.com)
  • Product: Stretch Gaiter
  • Sizes Available: M., L
  • Height: Size M is 6.5 in (16.5 cm) high, size L is 7 in (18 cm) high
  • Fabric: Schoeller Dynamic Extreme
  • Features: Lace hook with pinch loop, underfoot elastic cord with tightener
  • Weight: Measured weight size M 1.3 oz/pair (37 g), size L 1.5 oz/pair (43 g); manufacturer specification size L 1.5 oz/pair (43 g)
  • MSRP: $30 US

MontBell U.L. Thermawrap Action Jacket SPOTLITE REVIEW

A synthetic-fill, full-zip jacket with highly breathable stretch panels and thumb-hole wrist sleeves

Overview

MontBell’s Ultralight Thermawrap Action Jacket combines the loft and wind resistence of synthetic fill with the higher breathability of stretch fleece side panels to produce a jacket better suited to high octane pursuits. This is a close fitting jacket best suited to above freezing temperatures or layering under heavier insulation. I tested the 10.2 ounce (size M) MontBell Action Jacket while mountain biking, trail running, cross-country skiing, and backpacking through the colder months in northern Arizona (>7000 feet elevations).

This jacket received a major improvement in 2006. Previous versions of the Action Jacket used a YKK Conceal main front zipper (and actually included an instruction card on how to use them). Conceal zippers are aesthetically pleasing, as the zipper teeth disappear when zipped up. However, these zippers were difficult to operate, especially while wearing gloves, and were a source of complaints from users. Specifically, they are difficult to get started when trying to connect the two separating parts.

In 2006, the Conceal zippers were replaced with smooth-operating, standard YKK coil zippers. Having used both types, the new coil zippers are much appreciated. The two hand-warmer pockets still have Conceal zippers, but since these are permanently together (non-separating) they don’t have the same problem as the previous main zipper.

The Thermawrap Action Jacket uses 50 gram/m2 Exceloft insulation. In my experience, MontBell’s propriety Exceloft insulation performs similarly to Polarguard or Primaloft in jackets of similar loft. The Action jacket takes a fair amount of rain or snow before wetting through (partial thanks to the DWR coating), maintains warmth when wet, and dries quickly. The 15-denier Ballistic nylon shell material held up well to light abuse; no rips or snags after 8 months of use.

The MontBell Thermawrap Action Jacket is a trim fit (author is 5’7″ and 160 pounds, size medium tested). It layers well over a single long-sleeve base layer, and easily layers underneath additional layers of insulation or a trim rain jacket. The side stretch panels provide this trim fitting garment with plenty of stretch and freedom of movement. The stretch fleece enhanced breathability as well; they extend down the sleeves nearly to the elbows.