Articles (2020)

One Night At A Time

Quit making it so hard: jeepers, just cram a few things in your pack and let’s go!

Editor’s Note: This feature originally ran in Issue 8 of the BackpackingLight Print Magazine.

Pencil Pushing

My desk is boring. On a nice summer day, I get all itchy. I work at home, and looking out the windows, I see mountains. This lovely view can really needle me, those mountains whispering that I ditch the desk and enter.

I live in a beautiful place. Home for me is rural Idaho, just three miles from the Wyoming state line. When I look out my window, I can see the rolling foothills of the Tetons across the border in Wyoming. Beyond is the astounding backcountry of the Jedediah Smith Wilderness and the big peaks of Grand Teton National Park.

Right next to my desk there’s a clock, and over the last few summers I’ve made good use of that thing.

In summer, when the days are long, I can quickly pack up all the essentials for a single overnight and walk out the door. It’s a short drive to the nearest trailhead. From backing out of my driveway to hiking on the trail: about twenty minutes. In mid-summer, there is plenty of time before the sun goes down. With a light pack on my back, I can take advantage of this additional daylight and get surprisingly deep into the mountains to set up camp with a headlamp.

If I leave my house at 6 o’clock, I can walk for a few hours, sleep out under the stars, wake up early and walk around, and be home before noon. Then, back at the desk, I’m rejuvenated and content. The computer and pens are a little less oppressive, and my work is a little more enjoyable.

It’s Not a Marathon

These little one-night excursions now feel like something essential to my psyche. They are an exercise in spiritual renewal, a much needed revival of the soul. Yes, I know that sounds all lofty and snooty. I’ll put it a different way: It can be really nice to get away from all the trappings of "this" world and get out into "that" world, even if only for a few hours. The lessons I’ve learned from this are simple and rewarding. The most important is that sleeping outside in the forest is easy. Grabbing some gear and just going is always an option. It’s not difficult.

My calling: Make it even easier. I can look out my window, and I can usually get a pretty good idea what the weather is going to do in the short term. If it all looks good, I leave the weight of the shelter behind and sleep out under the stars.

I want to share this with friends, so I’ll get on the phone and pester them to join me, and they’ll tell me how wonderful it sounds. They act enthusiastic, but all too often they never come along. They really seem to want to, but their hurdle always ends up being, "My camping gear is all stored away, and it’s just too complicated to get it all organized."

It’s a sad excuse. How much gear is really required? The thing that has made this easy for me has been to simply have all my gear ready to go, all summer long. It’s merely in a big cardboard box, and I rummage through and toss stuff in my pack. Why does it seem so difficult? Somehow camping has become a reflection of our gadget hungry consciousness In their eyes, it’s all equated to problematic loads of tricked-out materialism.

We’ve separated ourselves from Mother Nature, and the simple act of walking out into her nurturing embrace should never be daunting. Jeepers, just cram a few things in your pack and let’s go!

Doesn’t Have to Be Perfect

Another bonus of these modest outings: It’s a good way for me to fine tune my ever-evolving system. As a way to challenge myself, I’ll always try to do something different. It’s a fun experiment to tweak the contents of my pack on every one of these outings. Cut the sleeping pad even shorter? Leave the stove behind? Jolt caffeine gum instead of coffee?

Maybe someday it’ll become perfect, but where’s the fun in that? These little one-nighters allow me to refine my skills at ultralight backpacking and camping, and I reap the benefits when it comes time to plan those more ambitious multi-day trips.

More than anything, I go into nature for my own sanity. It’s a metaphysical fix, and even if it’s only one night, there’s a renewal of the spirit. On such a deep and simple level, sleeping on the ground is truly rejuvenating. I love the smell of the pine needles, the sound of the crickets and the connection I feel lying upon this magnificent earth. I experience an alteration of my busy mind, and I delight in its result.

How difficult is it, really? I am very fortunate to live so close to such impressive wilderness, but we all must have someplace beautiful and secluded nearby.

I lived for a time in New York City. Just a little bit north of that urban prison, I had a perfect flat spot, just big enough for me to lie down, and it was easy to get to from the confines of my apartment. I slept there often.

It can be done.

Get Out Now!

Six steps to streamline your planning from dreaming up a trip to walking out the door.

Editor’s Note: This feature originally ran in Issue 3 of the BackpackingLight Print Magazine.
***

If industry leaders are correct and scarcity of time is what keeps us from getting out more, then perhaps the most sensible thing to do is to figure out how to streamline the process of taking a backcountry trip. Maybe it’s time to redefine what constitutes a satisfactory foray into wild country. Maybe it’s time to eliminate, as much as possible, the friction that keeps us from going backpacking.

After all, scarcity of time notwithstanding, many of us still seem to end up spending a few days every so often at some ill-advised gathering with people that annoy us. So why is it that we can take the time to fulfill some of our less compelling social obligations, but we can’t find the time to throw a pack on our back and head into the hills for some spiritual sustenance?

The following six steps should help you streamline the process of getting ready for a trip into the backcountry. The idea is to reduce the friction of planning and preparation to an absolute minimum. This, in turn, transforms every gap in your calendar into an opportunity to start your own little cultural revolution.

1. GEAR CHECKLIST

Create a standard checklist for most of the trips you take. This list need not be set in stone, but should provide a good jumping-off point for all of your backcountry travels. Adjust as necessary, but you won’t have to reinvent the wheel every time you get ready to head out.

2. GEAR BOX

Store your gear in a big plastic box – all of your gear, all the time. This way you’ll always have everything you need for a quick trip organized and in one place. My favorite is a clear plastic 110-liter Sterilite box that I found at a local hardware store. Storing your equipment this way means that everything in your gear box is essentially dedicated backcountry gear. Keeping your gear box stocked with all of the equipment you need for a trip eliminates the hassle of frantically digging through your junk drawer looking for your headlamp or multi-tool while your hiking partner simmers in the car outside, half an hour past your agreed departure time. Taped inside the lid of your gear box should be a manila envelope with copies of your standard gear checklist. Everything that goes into your pack or on your back should be in the box. A quick run through the checklist before departure ensures that you won’t arrive at the trailhead without some essential piece of equipment.

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The contents of the author’s gear box.

3. READY-TO-GO MENU

Rather than trying to make every backcountry sojourn a culinary orgy, create simple and straightforward two-, three-, and five-day menus that are easy to shop for and package. Again, you can adjust as you see fit, but the idea is to reduce the friction of planning and packing to an absolute minimum.

4. FOOD BOX

The food box is a second clear plastic container that you store excess backcountry food in. It provides a rolling stock from which to provision your trips. Like the gear box, it has a manila envelope taped inside the lid with copies of shopping lists for your respective menus. When you are getting ready for a trip, you simply grab the most appropriate shopping list and head to the grocery store with the kind of laser-like focus that will have you pointed toward the trailhead pronto.

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The contents of the author’s food box.

5. RELOAD

For this system to work well, it is important that when you return from a trip, everything goes back in its place. You clean and restock as necessary. That way, the next time you open up your calendar and see a little daylight, getting ready to hit the trail will be virtually effortless.

6. RETHINK TIME REQUIREMENTS

In addition to getting your house in order from an organizational standpoint, it also makes sense to reassess just how much time you need to pull off a successful and rewarding backpacking trip. A while back, I was talking with a friend who has a family and a demanding job. After he had described a litany of very cool trips he’d taken during the last year, I asked him how he’d been able to get out so often, given the obvious demands on his time. His response? Overnight trips. So if you have trouble knocking loose for more than a day or two, head out anyway. You might be surprised at how much satisfaction you can pack into what seems like only a handful of hours.

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All the gear a backpacker could want, in easy reach.

All the Gear a Guy Could Want

I like gear. I collect gear with an almost rabid enthusiasm, and I almost always have a place to put it.

Editor’s Note: This feature originally ran in Issue 3 of the BackpackingLight Print Magazine.
***
“Store your gear in a big plastic box,” writes Matt Colón in his “Get Out Now!” article.

His favorite box: a 110-liter Rubbermaid storage bin. The presumption is that organization and tidiness of your gear store will decrease the time required to plan a backcountry trek, improving the chances that you’ll actually take one.

I started out with one of these boxes, full of all the gear a guy could ever want.

But my duties as a product tester eventually moved me to two, and then three boxes, which eventually occupied a closet. Finally, I invested in a box caddy, which of course expanded to hold twelve boxes and now enjoyed its own space in the garage. It too, held all the gear a guy could ever want.

When the prospect of adding another twelve-box unit to the garage threatened Stephanie’s ability to park her car inside on those negative-thirty-degree Montana winter days, I was demoted – no, wait, promoted! – to my very own off-site storage unit. This, of course, greatly simplified matters. When it came time to prepare for a trip, enjoy some time alone, read a book, or just kick back and drink a glass of milk, all I had to do was drive a few blocks to my storage unit and enjoy any one of these activities surrounded by, what else? That’s right: all the gear a guy could ever want.

Until the storage unit got full.

Backpacking gear, day-hiking gear, winter backpacking gear, ski gear (randonee, tele, and alpine), pontoon boats, fly rods, sleds (and pulks – why, yes, of course there is a difference), and more.

So I moved into a warehouse. And then a bigger warehouse. At one point, my office occupied the top floor of the warehouse and I was again surrounded by… all the gear a guy could ever want.

And for 90% of my trips, I fit what I actually need into a thirty-liter backpack. And once I’m on the trail… it holds all the gear a guy could ever want.

The North Face Beeline Sleeping Bag Review

The specifications look great, but the devil is in the details.

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The 30 F rated North Face Beeline sleeping bag is filled with 850+ fill power down, has a 15 denier shell, and weighs 22 ounces (size Regular).

Description

For summertime mountain backpacking or spring/fall backpacking in warmer climates, I prefer a mummy style ultralight down sleeping bag rated at around 30 F. Cold nights near or below the bag’s rating are not uncommon, and a mummy style bag has certain advantages: there are no drafts, I can easily wear clothes inside to extend the bag’s warmth, and I can “mummy up” to seal the warmth inside.

The North Face’s Flight Series gear “utilizes the latest technologies and most innovative materials to shave weight and enable the outdoor athlete to go fast and light, while still staying protected by the elements. It’s a collection featuring the latest in ultralight, packable, adaptive, and multi-purpose gear.” The Flight Series Beeline sleeping bag is their lightest 30 F sleeping bag.

The Beeline is filled with 850+ fill power down, has a 15 denier ripstop shell, and is rated at 30 F. The feature set is spartan, which is typical of an ultralight sleeping bag: down insulated hood with elastic one-handed drawcord, 1/3 length zipper, down-filled draft tube, vaulted footbox with zipped vent, and heat-transfer logos. The only thing unusual is the zippered vent on the footbox, which some hikers will find useful and others won’t.

From the description, the Beeline sounds like a top notch ultralight down mummy-style sleeping bag. However, the devil is in the details. Read on…

Performance

I measured the bag’s average double layer loft to be 4.75 inches (single layer 2.4 inches). This is significantly greater than many similar bags with the same temperature rating, which have a measured single layer loft of around 2 inches. From our table of estimated temperature ratings based on measured loft (read our Backpacking Light Position Statement on Sleeping Bag Temperature Ratings), this translates to about a 20 F rating. Please take the time to read the referenced article and note that sleeping bag warmth depends on a number of factors.

In spite of its higher loft, I felt chilly in the Beeline when the nighttime temperature dropped into the low 30s F, which is typical (for me) for a 30 F rated sleeping bag. To stay warm on a cold, frosty spring 25 F night – the lowest temperature I experienced in the Beeline – I had to wear a lightweight down jacket (North Face Thunder Jacket) and insulated pants (Backpacking Light Cocoon 60 Pant). On that same frosty night, I found that the Beeline’s shell readily repelled heavy condensation inside my single-wall shelter.

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I tested the North Face Beeline on six mountain backpacking trips from May through August. On each trip, I was in either a single-wall solo tent, like the Gossamer Gear One (left), or the North Face Meso 22 two-person double-wall tent (right). Nighttime temperatures ranged from 25 to 40 F.

Thus far, the Beeline’s positives are its high lofting 850+ fill power down, high measured loft, and its lightweight highly water repellent shell. However, as I mentioned, the devil is in the details, and overall the Beeline is a “mixed bag,” as the following photos show.

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The Beeline has a 1/3 length side zipper – which I consider a positive because it reduces weight – but the zipper can only be operated from the outside (left). Other sleeping bags have a revolving zipper pull that enables zipper operation from the outside or inside. The only extra feature on the Beeline is a zippered footbox opening (right) to allow ventilation on warm nights. This is a feature that some hikers will like and others can do without.

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The Beeline’s hood is a disaster. The left photo shows the hood’s maximum closure, which is not enough face coverage on a really cold night. I also don’t like the bag’s exceptionally long elastic drawcord (shown), but I suppose it’s necessary so you can expand the hood opening to reach out and operate the zipper. There is a Velcro closure at the top of the zipper, but it has a nasty habit of sticking to and damaging the grosgrain zipper stiffener that is next to it. The grosgrain stiffener is lightweight, but it doesn’t do much to prevent zipper snagging.

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Here’s a look at the Beeline’s hood fully open (left), laid next to the hood on the Marmot Hydrogen sleeping bag. The North Face calls it an “open hood,” meaning it lays flat and is not sculptured like the Marmot hood. I found the Marmot hood much more to my liking in both its operation and face coverage.

Comparisons and Assessment

The following table compares the North Face Beeline with some popular 30-32 F rated ultralight mummy style down sleeping bags. All of the bags have baffled construction. Data are for a size Regular bag.

Manufacturer Model Temperature Rating (F) Single Layer Loft (in) Weight of Down (oz) Fill Power Total Weight (oz) Cost US$
The North Face Beeline 30 2.4 10 850+ 22 $279
Western Mountaineering SummerLite 32 2.0 10 850+ 19 $315
Marmot Hydrogen 30 2.5 11 850+ 25 $319
Montbell Spiral Down Hugger #3 30 1.9 11 800 20 $229
Mountain Hardwear Phantom 32 32 2.0 10 800 22 $290

As you can see from the table data, the Beeline compares favorably to similar sleeping bags in loft, weight, and cost. The Western Mountaineering SummerLite bag is a couple ounces lighter because of its very lightweight shell fabric, but it costs a bit more, too. The Montbell Spiral Down Hugger #3 appears to be the best value.

Overall, the North Face Beeline is a “mixed bag.” Accolades for its high loft down, lightweight water resistant shell fabric, and generous loft are offset by a zipper that operates only from the outside, an inadequate zipper stiffener, a Velcro patch that sticks to the zipper stiffener, and a terrible hood design. Unfortunately, the Beeline falls short of TNF’s claim of “utilizing the latest technologies.”

Specifications and Features

  Manufacturer

The North Face

  Year/Model

2009 Beeline Sleeping Bag

  Style

Hooded mummy with 1/3 zipper

  What’s Included

Sleeping bag, stuff sack, storage bag

  Fill

850+ fill-power down, 10 oz (283g) size Regular, 11 oz (312g) size Long

  Construction

Trapezoidal baffle

  Measured Loft

4.75 in (12 cm) average double layer loft

  Claimed Temperature Rating

30 F (-1 C)

  Stuffed Size

11 in x 6 in (35.5 cm x 20 cm)

  Weight

Size Long tested, measured weight 1 lb 6.7 oz (644 g); manufacturer specification 1 lb 7 oz (652 g)

  Sizes

Regular fits to 6 ft (1.83 m), Long fits to 6 ft 6 in (1.98 m)

  Fabrics

Shell 15d HelioLite Ripstop with DWR, 20d lining

  Features

Down insulated open hood with elastic one-handed drawcord, 1/3 length zipper, down-filled draft tube, vaulted footbox with zipped vent, heat-transfer logos

  MSRP

Regular US$279, Long US$299

Photo Essay: A Traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness by Foot and Packraft

We entered at Benchmark (on the South Fork Sun), exited at Silvertip (on the Spotted Bear), and had the time of our lives over a few relaxing days while making long miles in a packraft on the South Fork.

Introduction

Outside of Alaska, options for wilderness packrafting in remote areas of the United States are limited. The number of wilderness floats in excess of twenty miles are few and far between, and generally limited to America’s three largest wilderness complexes: the Bridger-Teton (Wyoming), the Frank Church (Idaho), and the Bob Marshall (Montana).

The Bob Marshall offers three large rivers in particular (the South Fork Flathead, the Middle Fork Flathead, and the Spotted Bear) that collectively provide more than one hundred wilderness miles of outstanding packraftable water. Through the years, I’ve found so many of the creeks and smaller rivers in “The Bob” provide excellent packrafting (at least in June and July) that I’m coming to realize it may be the premiere wilderness packrafting destination in the continental United States.

In addition to the South Fork, the Middle Fork, and the Spotted Bear, I’ve floated the White, Dearborn, North Fork Blackfoot, Young’s Creek, Danaher Creek, Gordon Creek, Big Salmon Creek, Shafer Creek, Strawberry Creek, the North and South Fork Sun (and the West Fork of the South Fork Sun), and portions of other creeks even smaller than these. Opportunities for wilderness packrafting treks in The Bob abound!

Finally, The Bob offers packrafting for all skill levels. From the whitewater gorges of the Middle Fork Flathead to a lazy day meandering down Danaher Creek, there is something for everyone.

Having explored The Bob with a packraft for several years, I find myself coming back to repeat a few stellar experiences: floating the rowdy Spotted Bear and Young’s Creek at the peak of runoff and floating the more tame South Fork Flathead as the water recedes. The latter, in particular, may be the finest Class I-II wilderness float in the Lower 48. It’s certainly the longest: combined with several miles of Danaher Creek or Young’s Creek (its two major headwaters), a float of the South Fork in late June through mid-July to Meadow Creek Gorge offers an incredible forty plus miles of water. This length is exciting to me, because it means that I can do a long traverse (one hundred miles or more) of The Bob with a meaningful amount of miles traveled in a packraft.

And so, this was the context for a trip in July 2009 with a few friends. We entered at Benchmark (on the South Fork Sun), exited at Silvertip (on the Spotted Bear), and had the time of our lives over a few relaxing days while making long miles in a packraft on the South Fork.

We also cheated a little. I wanted to give my pals an experience of the Wild West, so we rode horses from Benchmark to the Stadler-Hoadley divide, cutting off eighteen miles of walking. So, remarkably, by the time we reached mile sixty-five on our one-hundred-plus-mile route, we had walked a paltry eight miles – and none of it uphill! I reckon that “backpacking light” comes in all sorts of packages… pardner.

The Bob is home to big, long, and wild rivers, one of the nation’s finest cutthroat trout fisheries, and 160 miles of the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail. This year (2009) is one where my intimacy with this wilderness will grow dramatically. In addition to the trek in July featured in this photo essay, I enjoyed the rhythms of living on nearby Flathead Lake for a week while at the Melita Island Boy Scout camp with my son, and I’ll return for another week of wilderness raucousness while participating in Le Parcour de Wild in October.

I hope this essay conveys my passion for the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex and leaves you with a positive taste for wilderness travel.

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We spent our first night at the Benchmark Wilderness Guest Ranch, enjoying the hospitality of the Heckmans, which included meals served family style, stories from past generations, and these rustic accommodations. It was good to be out of cell phone range and off the grid.

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The Heckmans packed us and our gear for eighteen miles to the Stadler-Hoadley divide and the crest of the Continental Divide. Here, Bridger’s horse, like us, anticipates some trail time.

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Product testing for the manufacturer of the lightest ridin’ shoes on the market!

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Danny and Matt begin their descent of the Continental Divide from the pass. Six miles later, we’d reach the Danaher Creek valley and scout a put-in for the packrafts.

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Our first camp on Danaher Creek after a long day on the horses and trail was welcomed with fire and food.

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The next morning, we meandered down Danaher Creek to put in below a big logjam.

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Matt’s first time in a packraft. He’s now twenty-five miles from the road, probably thinking, ‘Oh man, am I really going to do this?’

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Danaher Creek is a sleepy, meandering float over cobbles, interrupted here and there by logjam portages, willows, and a curious bankside grizzly bear.

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I used a GoPro Wide Helmet camera to take packrafting (and fly fishing) video. You can find a link to the review here.

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Unsettled weather provided dramatic and beautiful natural light as we floated downstream.

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The trout fishing on the South Fork Flathead is spectacular. Every tributary, and the main river itself, is full of fat cutthroat. This was my first long backcountry trip where I relied exclusively on a Tenkara rod (read the review here). I can no longer imagine fishing any other way in the backcountry. My name is Ryan, and I’m a Tenkara addict. So much so, in fact, that Backpacking Light and Tenkara are partnering to develop a brand new version of the Tenkara rod designed specifically for backpackers.

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After twenty miles of floating, we pitched camp on a high bank overlooking the South Fork Flathead below its confluence with the White River. Soft evening light and the sound of the gentle riffles – it was an amazing experience in what might otherwise be a river corridor with roads and trophy homes, if not for the Wilderness Act of 1964.

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Breaded trout cooked over the Zia Titanium Grill. Everything tastes better when cooked over a camp fire.

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My shelter and sleep system on this trip consisted of a bivy sack and quilt and … that’s it, I suppose. The weather varied wildly throughout the trip (Montana proverb: If you don’t like the weather, give it five minutes.), so I chose my campsites carefully. Sleeping under this pine was my favorite, reminding me of trappers and cowboys that may have traveled through here 100 years ago. Maybe one of them spread their bedroll near here, too.

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The view upstream from my sleep site. The White River, another exceptional wilderness float, flows into the South Fork on the left.

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This was to be my final trip with my last remaining pair of Montrail Vitesse shoes. Long a staple of my backcountry excursions, I held on to them for months, waiting for an adventure that warranted their graceful retirement.

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A cold and stormy day down splashy rapids sent us scampering into the woods to warm up at one point. Our teeth were chattering and our hands and feet were numb. Being in a packraft when it’s 45 degrees and raining is nothing short of pure misery and truly makes you appreciate the gift of fire.

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The western slopes of the Continental Divide in northern Montana are lush well into the summer season, when much of the rest of the state starts to toast a golden brown. Mossy brooks and shades of green dominate the forest here.

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Being able to reliably count on fish for dinner means that you can reduce your food weight significantly. Whenever I expected good fishing, I cut my dinner rations to two ounces of spicy potato breadcrumbs for trout cakes. I and my belly are happy to report that my gamble paid off.

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Our camp at Mid Creek was dark, chilly, and wet when we arrived. This may have been the most welcome fire of the trip, and we built it big and inviting.

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Mid Creek crashes into the South Fork amongst some of the most beautifully colored cobbles I’ve ever seen. The riverbed here is painted pink, orange, and green.

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The staple of my summertime cook kit: the new BPL 900 pot. This one is a prototype that we hope to bring to market in 2010. It’s more durable and has a nicer finish and a pour spout – improving upon the old design without a weight penalty.

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While hiking, I stowed my Tenkara rod into the handle of my packraft paddle.

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Gazing downstream from the mouth of Mid Creek, I was wistful about running the Meadow Creek gorge on this trip. Instead, we’d travel up Mid Creek and cross the mountains into the Spotted Bear drainage.

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Forced into this camp by an encounter with a grizzly bear and her cub that blocked access to the upper canyon, we initially agonized over the possibility of a windstorm and blow-downs. Fortunately, the weather was fine, the night was still, and the eerie pillars reminded us of the power of nature. I woke the next morning satisfied to have spent the night here, and the experience was one of my favorites of the summer.

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Collecting water from upper Mid Creek, wondering if the mama bear was spying on me from the thick willows guarding the riverbank.

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I don’t dream a lot, but long after this trip was over, I still find myself waking up in a cold sweat thinking about this day. We were ants trekking through matchsticks at the rate of three hours per mile (hpm). Frustrating and painful, it highlighted those features a map leaves out.

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Once we broke out of the deadfall, the slopes steepened, but our spirits rose. Our burn camp from the night before was well down the valley to the right.

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Upon reaching the ridge, we experienced our first sweeping vistas of the trip. The hypothermic chills, the saddle sores, the blowdowns – all was forgotten as we surveyed the lay of the land from what felt like the spine of the world.

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The euphoric high did not last long, however. We were faced with a difficult descent down a gully of razor sharp limestone scree and talus that tore at my shoes, my pants, my hands, and my pride.

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After a harrowing descent of the shown ridge (our route is a nondescript steep line just to the right of the center high point), we entered the worst bushwhacking of the trip, not making it into the Silvertip Creek valley to camp until late in the evening. Climbing the next ridge (from where this photo was taken), we looked back and felt proud to have battled the climb, traverse, and descent with grace and humility and hardly any cursing.

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Crossing the next pass after yet another morning of steep bushwhacking, we were pretty excited to be among high, jagged peaks. It was so far removed from the low forest and water of the South Fork that the boats and paddles tucked into our packs seemed the height of incongruity.

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Entering the Amphitheater – one of my absolute favorite places on the planet.

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Once inside the Amphitheater, we shifted gears from trekking to ambling (moseying, if you will). We must have spent two hours walking one mile. The terrain wasn’t difficult, by any means – we were walking on soft tundra meadows the entire time – but the magical remoteness of this place was refreshing, and we immersed ourselves in it. At this point, Danny simply closed his eyes and just listened. Yes, Wilderness has a sweet sound to it.

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Our camp in the Amphitheater was nestled among small stands of subalpine fir. We bedded on buttercup-laced tundra.

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Storms came in that night, and the absence of big trees to shelter my head meant that I had to set up my packraft for a little extra protection. Having a fully inflated packraft far from any floatable river was a bit surreal, though my dry head was glad for the very slight shelter I managed to eke out.

Photo Essay: A Traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness by Foot and Packraft - 37
Exiting the Amphitheater, we were once again reminded of the power of nature’s wrath when we had to cross huge swaths of fresh spruce and fir leveled by an avalanche only a few months prior.

Photo Essay: A Traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness by Foot and Packraft - 38
Back on a high ridge, we have been off-trail for three days at this point. Matt surveys the lower elevations – thick forests that we will be forced to reenter that afternoon as we plan our exit from the wilderness.

Photo Essay: A Traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness by Foot and Packraft - 39
Sweeping panoramas of the mountains of the northern Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex, accentuated by storm clouds and invisible-though-keenly-felt high winds, reminded us that we’re pretty small people in an awfully big place.

Photo Essay: A Traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness by Foot and Packraft - 40
As we descend, we find ourselves bushwhacking yet again, winding our way down steep, chossy, limestone cliff bands. Matt found himself in a precarious spot here, noting that the security of a foothold is more illusion than reality, and that I was busier taking photos of him trying to descend than actually helping him do so.

Photo Essay: A Traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness by Foot and Packraft - 41
After four days of bushwhacking, we are relieved to be back on trail, if only to avoid the prospect of limestone cuts and sidehilling in soft shoes. As we descended a small creek canyon towards the Spotted Bear River, we discovered this fascinating crime scene, which would occupy our detective skills and storytelling prowess for the next several miles.

Photo Essay: A Traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness by Foot and Packraft - 42
Upon reaching the Spotted Bear River, I finally came to the realization that our trip would be over soon. Psychologically, this is the hardest part of any expedition for me – those last few days of easy, downhill travel are often anticlimactic, and a reminder that expeditioning is only a temporary novelty in my life. Through the years, however, I’ve learned to cope with reentry better. As my relationships with my wife and son have deepened, my eagerness to come home to them overpowers the depression that comes with a wilderness exit.

Photo Essay: A Traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness by Foot and Packraft - 43
On the last night of a trip, is it too much to ask for a little sunshine? Still, I slept like a baby, and I remember falling asleep looking up at the packraft gently bobbing in the breeze, like the swinging watch of a hypnotist.

Photo Essay: A Traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness by Foot and Packraft - 44
On our way out, we passed this fellow coming in with his trusty donkey. They’d clearly both traveled their fair share of miles here. We asked him about his itinerary, and he replied with no hesitation, ‘Oh, I reckoned I’d just fill up these boxes and wander around til they were empty…’ At which point I finished his sentence, ‘…and then head on home, eh?’ He squinted at me kind of funny and corrected me, saying ‘No, son, that’s when I’ll start fishin’.’ I could tell he was a kindred spirit.

The North Face Thunder Jacket Review

Not the lightest down jacket to be found, but it’s an excellent balance of warmth and durability, and versatile the year around as an outer layer or midlayer.

Description

An ultralight insulated jacket with high loft down, very light shell fabric, minimal features, and weight under 14 ounces is an essential part of an ultralight or lightweight backpacking kit for summertime backpacking in the mountains or shoulder season camping most anywhere. Down insulation provides the most warmth for its weight, so it’s the insulation preferred by backpackers and mountaineers in all but very wet conditions.

The hoodless North Face Thunder Jacket is part of their Summit Series intended for alpine use. According to The North Face, Summit Series products "are built to endure extremes of weather and terrain while delivering the highest level of performance from base camp to summit." In that context, the Thunder Jacket is designed as a midlayer; for alpine use the shell is not durable enough as an outer layer.

The North Face Thunder Jacket Review - 1
The hoodless North Face Thunder Jacket is insulated with 800 fill power down, has a Pertex Quantum shell and lining, and weighs an average of 14.2 ounces.

Semantics aside, the Thunder Jacket is currently TNF’s lightest down jacket, and is well suited for three-season lightweight backpacking where temperatures are expected to plunge down to freezing. From the perspective of a lightweight backpacker, this jacket can definitely be used as an outer layer. Its 20-denier 0.9 ounce/square yard Pertex Quantum shell is, in fact, one of our favorite fabrics, noted for its tight weave, durability, and light weight.

The Thunder Jacket has sewn-through construction. Overall quality is excellent. Compared to other lightweight down jackets I have tested, the sizing of the Thunder Jacket is roomy, with lots of room inside (including the sleeves) to layer over another jacket. The length of the back is 28 inches (size Large), which is 1 to 2 inches longer than many other jackets in this class, and covers the bum very well, as shown in the photos.

The Thunder Jacket goes a little beyond the spartan feature set of lighter down jackets. The hand pockets are zippered and it has an adjustable drawcord in the hem. The YKK Vislon zippers are a step heavier than the #3 zippers used on other jackets. And the elastic binding on the cuffs is a bit heavier, and the inside seams are bound. Overall, the Thunder Jacket is more ruggedly built compared to other ultralight down jackets like the Western Mountaineering Flash Jacket or the Montbell Alpine Light Down Jacket. The former North Face Flash Jacket (Flight Series), insulated with 900 fill down, is a closer comparison to the other jackets mentioned, but unfortunately it has been discontinued.

Although the Thunder Jacket weighs 14.4 ounces (size Large tested), and is a bit more durably built as described above, it is also a bit warmer than other ultralight down jackets. Although the amount of down in the jacket is not specified (only a few manufacturers provide that information, bless them), the Thunder Jacket with 2 inches of double layer loft is at the warmer end of this class of ultralight three-season down insulated jackets.

Performance

I am very impressed with the Thunder Jacket’s Pertex Quantum shell fabric. It’s very light weight, soft as silk, and very strong. The DWR treatment is superb. On several occasions I walked in rain or snow to test the jacket’s water repellency and found it to be very wind and water resistant, but eventually wetting through at the seams. I verified that the fabric is also quite durable; it survived several unintentional brushes with tree branches while camping or bushwhacking.

The North Face Thunder Jacket Review - 2
Unlike other ultralight down jackets, the Thunder Jacket has zippered pockets. The left pocket doubles as a stuff sack. There is a drawcord pull inside each pocket allowing you to tighten the hem drawcord with your hands inside the pockets.

The Thunder Jacket is a good choice for summer backpacking in the mountains and shoulder season backpacking, where nighttime temperatures can get down to freezing. A down-insulated garment gives the most warmth for its weight, and the Thunder Jacket provides plenty of warmth for chilly mornings, as well as extending the warmth of a 30 F sleeping bag in below freezing temperatures. The Thunder Jacket saved my bacon several times on spring trips when nighttime temperatures dropped down into the 20s F.

While many hikers use a lightweight down jacket for only three-season use, I find it to be much more versatile than that. I am a devout believer in the layering system, so rather than carry a heavy down parka for winter backcountry skiing or camping I prefer to take two lightweight insulating jackets so I can wear them separately or together. An ultralight down jacket worn as a midlayer under a shell is sufficient for backcountry skiing on a cold day, or to don during breaks to prevent a chill. On winter camping trips I have stayed toasty warm at -16 F wearing a heavy wool baselayer, a lightweight synthetic insulated jacket, and an ultralight down jacket over that. As needed, I wear a shell jacket over one or more of the underlayers.

The North Face Thunder Jacket Review - 3
Although the Jacket’s Pertex Quantum shell is very strong and durable, it is not completely downproof. I observed occasional feathers coming through the fabric itself as well as through needle holes in the seams.

Comparisons

The real question is – how much warmth do you need? My personal preference is an ultralight, spartan down jacket in the 9-10 ounce range, like the Western Mountaineering Flash Jacket (hooded, 9.5 ounces size Large) or the PHD Designs Ultra Down Pullover (hoodless, 9.1 ounces size Large).

Many lightweight backpackers may prefer the extra durability and warmth of the North Face Thunder Jacket, in which case it is a good choice. The closest comparison to the Thunder Jacket, and perhaps a better choice, is the Western Mountaineering Flight Jacket (850+ down, 11.5 ounces size Large, $250). It costs a bit more, but it’s loftier and weighs nearly 3 ounces less. However, it’s less durable.

Overall, I found the North Face Thunder Jacket to be very warm, durable, wind/water resistant, and versatile. It’s not the lightest down jacket to be found, but it’s an excellent balance of warmth and durability, and will be useful the year around as an outer layer or midlayer.

Specifications and Features

  Manufacturer:

The North Face (http://www.thenorthface.com/)

  Year/Model:

2009 Thunder Jacket

  Style:

Full zip hoodless jacket

  Fabrics:

Outer shell and lining are 20 denier 0.9 oz/yd2 (30 g/m2) Pertex Quantum with DWR finish

  Insulation:

800 fill power down

  Loft:

Measured two layer loft is 2 in (3 cm)

  Features:

Sewn through construction with 3-inch horizontal quilting, down filled collar, full front zipper with fleece chin guard and storm flap under zipper, two zippered hand pockets, elastic cuffs, drawcord hem with two in-pocket adjustors

  Weight:

Measured Weight Men’s Large: 14.4 oz (408 g)
Manufacturer Specified Average Weight: 14.2 oz (402 g)

  MSRP:

$229 US

New Balance MT875OR Joggers Review

Totally synthetic, luggy soles, and a breathable draining upper, plus a range of width fittings including really wide (4E). (Updated 9/22/09)

New Balance MT875OR Joggers Review - 1
Courtesy New Balance.

 

Editor’s Note: This review was updated September 23, 2009. See added text below.

Overview

The very low-cut Australian-made Dunlop KT-26 joggers, which I often wear when out walking, are very light (327 grams or 11.5 ounces each shoe) and have superb friction on rock. But, they have a very thin flexible sole as well, and in some country it is useful to have a shoe with a firmer sole and bigger lugs. For instance, slithering around on muddy farm trails in France (the cows had used the track as well…) proved a bit difficult as the light tread on the KTs just could not grip. The same problem happened on snow-covered granite scree.

Where I run into a problem with so many brands of joggers is the width. I have wide feet – EEEE width in fact, and many brands only go up as far as EE. Actually, many well-known brands don’t even tell you what the width is, which really irritates me. And if anything is going to give you sore feet at the end of the day, it is shoes which are just that bit too narrow for your feet. Yes, there are other factors as well, like the width of the heel and the height of the arch, but the width at the front of the shoe is what concerns me most of all.

New Balance MT875OR Joggers Review - 2
Camp and relax up in the mountains.

Fortunately, the New Balance company not only makes shoes in several different lasts, but also makes them in several different widths, and the company states the available widths on their web site. This is quite unlike so many other well-known shoe companies, which give you no idea at all what the widths are. In addition, their SL1 last in an EEEE width suits me fine. So, I rather like the New Balance shoes. But please note, the last and width which suits me may not suit you; select your shoe fittings carefully.

I recently reviewed the New Balance MT1110GT joggers and found that they may run just slightly larger than some other brands. For the MT1110GT shoes I tested in the winter, I had a US size 11 EEEE, and found that they were big enough for two pairs of socks. This was good in the snow. With another well-known brand, the US 11 was only big enough for one pair of socks, but the width fitting is only an EE on those. For these MT875OR shoes, I dropped back half a size, to US 10.5 EEEE, and wore them with one pair of Darn Tough Vermont ‘Hike Trek Boot Sock Full Cushion’ over a thin Gobi Wigwam nylon liner sock. This is a very reliable and quite popular combination among experienced walkers.

Product Details

New Balance MT875OR Joggers Review - 3
The lugged sole, courtesy New Balance.

The web site specifications for these shoes contains the usual array of fancy marketing buzz word names for the various bits. I’ll skip them. The rubber sole has fairly good lugs: you can see the pattern in the picture here. The lugs are about 5 millimeters (0.2 inches) deep over most of the shoe, dropping to about 4 millimeters (0.16 inches) at the front. The rubber is the usual grippy stuff.

The one place where some may find the New Balance shoes a bit light is in the amount of cushioning in the soles. New Balance describes them as ‘A highly responsive lightweight trainer built for the off-road runner,’ and that is what they are. They are not a big heavy trekking boot. The description goes on to mention ‘exceptional cushioning and ground contact,’ which is a contradiction in terms in my opinion. Lots of cushioning usually means not very good ‘ground contact.’

The inner sole is an ‘Ortholite’ – it looks like a standard inner sole. The laces are lumpy, like on the MT1110GTs: New Balance calls them ‘Sure Lace.’ The body is synthetic and mesh: no leather to get wet and heavy, then crack. The top edge comes up at the back of the heel as usual – exactly why I am never sure, because my favourite KTs don’t and suffer no problems from that. But, at least the back edge is well padded and causes no problems.

New Balance MT875OR Joggers Review - 4
The lining layer.

Where life gets interesting is inside the shoe. The outer surface of the upper is two strong mesh layers, and inside that is a padded layer. The padded layer is different from most other joggers, however. While it is sewn at the bottom to the bed of the shoe, it is free-floating around the top edge. Pull it away, as illustrated here, and you can see in between the mesh layer and the padding. While not visible in this photo, you can actually peer out through the mesh layer if you try. The padding is not going to crumple up either, as it supports one side of the orange tapes which hold the laces. It extends all the way around the front of the shoe as well.

Exactly what benefits this construction are meant to bring are not clear at this stage. But the construction does mean you should hesitate before wearing these shoes while river walking. The potential for getting a heap of sand and gravel in between the mesh and the padding is high. On the other hand, it would be very easy to wash the sand back out again. That said, the side of the tongue does press against the top of the orange padding layer, so there is some resistance to the inflow of debris.

The plastic finish on the outside of the mesh is rather shiny, and this makes the shoes look just a little ‘tacky.’ It would have been better if a matt finish had been used. However, that stuff is mainly just trim and not very structural.

Field Testing

The shoes were worn around home a bit, just to check, and were then taken on a twelve-day walk through the Australian Alpine region. This was a bit of a high speed hoon trip on tracks, rather than a bushwhacking trip through scrub and rivers. We covered 290 kilometers (180 miles) with 4,600 meters (15,000 feet) of major ascents and descents – not counting all the little ups and down. The longest day, when things went just a little wrong late in the day, saw us doing nearly 40 kilometers (24 miles) with full packs. There was no water where we had hoped to camp, so a 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) and 600 meters (2,000 feet) descent had to be made as the sun went down. The next morning started with a savage 400 meters (1,300 feet) ascent straight from the tent site. There were a few creaks.

The point of mentioning these details is that you don’t want big heavy boots or uncomfortable shoes on your feet when you are dragging down the last half hour to camp. These MT875OR joggers were feeling just fine when we hit the river at the bottom of that long descent, and I was able to delicately hop across rocks to cross the river dry-foot. In fact, most evenings in camp, I was still wearing the shoes while cooking dinner: I felt no urgent need to get them off my feet.

New Balance MT875OR Joggers Review - 5
Dirty toes at the end of a long day.

In places, we were walking on some very dry dusty dirt on the tracks – no rain for a long time. Inspecting my toes at the end of the day showed that the mesh construction had let some dust through. And if there is that much dust on my toes, through a pair of Darn Tough Vermont Boot Socks and a pair of Gobi Wigwam liner socks, then the socks themselves are going to pick up a bit of dust as well. This happens with the mesh uppers on such joggers. Our standard solution is to carry two sets of socks and to wash one set every two days. However, while some dust did get in, I did not find any build-up of dust or sand between the mesh and the orange padding shown above.

New Balance MT875OR Joggers Review - 6
The soles, before and after.

Many of us have read some horror stories about very light joggers collapsing after just a few days wear. The first-generation GoLites quickly became infamous for this. The picture here shows the soles of the MT875OR joggers ‘before’ and after the trip. (The before photo is actually a New Balance marketing photo.) There is a little bit of wear visible in my photo, but not very much. And the uppers came out looking just as good. The insides of the shoes and the footbed also look much the same as when new.

I dislike shoes with very thick cushioning or big air-bags in the soles: I find I lose contact with the ground and this makes it easy to sprain an ankle. On the other hand, light shoe weight usually means a limited amount of cushioning between your foot and the ground. And so it is with these shoes. This does not mean that every stick and stone dug into my soles; far from it, but I did find that I could ‘feel’ the surface I was walking on. I could tell whether I was on a smooth bit of grass or a potentially unstable bit of scree, and this let me control how I drove my feet. I found I could dance across small rocks while crossing a river with some delicacy.

All in all, my legs may have been very tired by the end of the trip, but my feet were relatively happy.


September 23, 2009 Update

Six Weeks in Switzerland

New Balance MT875OR Joggers Review - 7
Trails in Switzerland.

Starting in the middle of July 2009, my wife and I spent six weeks walking in Switzerland, doing the Chamonix to Zermatt trail and the Via Alpina trail right across Switzerland. Both routes seem to go over an Alpine pass a day, with nights spent in a valley at 500 – 1000 metres (1,600 – 3,200 feet) and the passes typically being from 2,500 to 2,900 metres (8,000 – 9,500 feet). In some cases there were several close passes in one day, but no matter. That meant we were typically climbing and decending over 1,500 metres (4,800 feet) each day, with packs.

Some of the walking was on a smooth track, but rough, stony limestone country and hard snow, shale, and serious boulder scree figured very prominently (left to right in photo above). There was practically no bushwhacking at all, though there was still plenty of abrasion on the soles and the sides of the shoes, especially from the limestone country and the scree.

New Balance MT875OR Joggers Review - 8
Wear on the shoes.

Of course the shoes suffered some wear – any shoes would! This was compounded by the fact that these NB875OR joggers are definitely lightweight shoes. The depth of the lugs on the soles was significantly reduced under the ball of the foot. I also noticed that the sole was a shade thin for some of the very rough surfaces encountered, and the lug pattern was a bit minimal under the ball of the foot (especially towards the end). Both were adequate, but a bit more thickness and a bit more tread pattern might have been nice. The result would have been a heavier shoe though, and the light weight of these shoes was really appreciated every afternoon.

The mesh at the sides of the shoes suffered towards the end. You can see the rips and wear holes in the photo. Frankly, I think the mesh was a shade light and weak: a stronger version would heve been good. Of course, brushing the sides of the shoes against sharp limestone for days on end can be expected to have some consequences, so maybe the mesh didn’t do too bad a job under the circumstances.

When I first looked at these shoes, I thought that the trim over the top near the front would probably die fairly quickly. It looked like cheap vinyl, and I expected it to crack and tear off. I’m talking here about the thin ribbon sections pointed to by the red arrows, not the toe-cap around the front. Well, the leading corners of the trim did start to peel off fairly soon from abrasion against all that rock, but that was a failure of the sewing, not of the trim material. I solved that by sewing the trim bits back on with some saddlery thread from my repair kit – very strong stuff. You can see my stitching in the photos. The fault here was in the design of the trim: you should never create a leading corner like that. Fortunately, once resewn there were no further problems there.

In fact, the trim material survived very well. Sewing through it and the rest of the shoe with a #100 sewing machine needle required a very high amount of force too: it is not cheap vinyl by any means! I inquired of New Balance about the material, and they replied that it was "a polyurethane based synthetic leather with a non-woven backer." Well, to me it seemed rather like the Hypalon they use on snow shoe decks. A bit glossy, but very, very strong stuff.

These comments have been forwarded to the design group at New Balance. I note that a later model of trail shoe from New Balance (which will be reviewed here in due course) has stronger mesh at the sides and no forward-pointing corners on the trim, while still using the same trim material. It would seem the design guys do take some notice.

In summary, despite being very light, these shoes proved to be strong enough to handle both our Australian and Swiss Alpine trips: almost eight weeks of continuous hard use. That seems a good enough life to me.


Specifications

  Manufacturer:

New Balance

  Year/Model:

MT875OR / Late 2008

  Manufacture:

China

  Materials:

Synthetic fabrics and rubbers, no leather

  Last:

SL-1 (see the New Balance site for further definition on their lasts)

  Size:

7 through 15, with half sizes 7 through 12; in D, EE, and EEEE fittings

  Weight:

Quoted 340 g (11.9 oz) each
Measured 385 g (13.6 oz) for US size 10.5 EEEE (BPL measurement)

  Colour:

Grey: what you see is what you get

  MSRP:

$100 US

What’s Good

  • A low weight
  • A wide range of width fittings (including 4E)
  • A flat inner sole and footbed (no arch support)
  • Good friction and good lugs on the sole
  • No leather or suede anywhere
  • No air cushioning to destroy ‘ground-feel’

What’s Not So Good

  • Dust gets into your socks and onto your feet
  • Sand could get inside the shell when river walking (but it will wash out easily)

Wilderness Cred for the Packrafting Noobs

I was perfectly content to let others do all the lightweight lifting, but at the first chance of a packrafting class (learning to play without buying the gear!), I jumped… and pulled my husband, Rob, with me.

Photos courtesy of Ryan Krueger and Outside Bozeman Magazine.

Wilderness Cred - 4

The paths that led me to eventually (and finally) plunking my backside into a packraft were circuitous at best.

Path 1

I grew up rafting. My family co-owned a ten-man raft with a few other families – we all chipped in because no one could afford one outright – but it “lived” at our house. We’d fill the cooler with drinks, grab a bucket of KFC, and hit the Yellowstone River by noon on a hot summer Saturday. Floating down the dun-colored river, slipping in to cool off when the tubes got too hot, pulling off at little islands that caught our fancy, jumping out to pretend that the three of us girls could help our parents drag the raft over shallow rock beds… it was heaven. We returned home happily tired and sunburnt, content in our day on the water.

As a result, I’ve always been comfortable on moving water, but large bodies of water freak me out. There are monsters in lakes, ponds, and oceans, so I tend to approach them with ambivalence and caution – much the way I approach my crawlspace and for the same reason. Rivers, however, have always been a source of delight to me, from swimming in them to camping near them to being surrounded by them in Bozeman.

Path 2

Though I was the customer support director for Backpacking Light Magazine for two years, my grasp of the written word and the proper use of mechanics, grammar, and spelling meant that I was regularly called upon to proofread articles before they were published, both online and in the print magazine. When Ryan Jordan worked with Roman Dial on a book dedicated to packrafting and educating the continental U.S. on the sport (packrafting is pretty established in Alaska, the original home of Alpacka Raft), I was included, copy-editing and proofreading and reference-checking the manuscript so many times that I thought my eyes were going to bleed. It was awesome. I gained insight into the complete process of publishing a book and what a pain in the rear it can be.

Packrafting sounded intriguing, fun, and a little bit thrilling given the size of the craft, though I was reasonably sure I’d never do it. I couldn’t afford a packraft, and probably wouldn’t have used it often enough to justify the purchase anyway. Ever since my late husband, Blake Morstad (who wrote for BPL), died in an avalanche, I was so preoccupied with our son that the idea of backpacking, camping, or hiking again was pushed firmly towards the back of my mind. Single parenthood was far too pressing, and I really only enjoy such recreational pursuits when done with others. I am not a solitary outdoor gal.

Still, I knew WAY more about packrafting than the general public, though that knowledge was largely useless unless I was at work giving customers counsel about the rafts they were considering buying. I was, in effect, an armchair expert. Which, when you think about it, is really the most dangerous kind of expert there is.

Path 3

Backpacking Light’s Wilderness Trekking School started off in a big way, with a trail-less traverse of the Absaroka-Beartooth Range that was long, technical, and out of my league. The idea of joining that first, expedition-length class in October of 2007 didn’t even cross my mind. I was too busy making sure the students were kitted out in the gear they needed, that they had signed medical forms, that I had emergency contact information for everyone, and that everyone coughed up their watches, cell phones, and mp3 players. Besides, I didn’t want to cross the Absaroka-Beartooth range in the snow. It sounded suspiciously like a LOT of work.

We’ve retooled and revisited the School since then, and 2009 has been our most ambitious year yet, offering a wide variety of courses of various lengths on several dates. Currently managing editor, I was so buried in the weekly articles and newsletter that the first I really heard about all this was when Ryan Jordan emailed ’round a link to the School’s homepage, asking for input, feedback, and proofreading. I immediately noticed the introductory packrafting class and its requirements, which I easily met. Now that I’ve remarried and have someone slightly less demanding and needy than my four-year-old son to add to play time, I read about the classes hungrily, anticipating a day when we’d backpack or even just car camp as a family, and all my head knowledge about going lightweight could actually see some use.

I emailed Ryan back, noting my changes and feedback, and remarked that the Introduction to Packrafting looked particularly intriguing. In a separate email, he invited me and Rob, my husband, to join BPL for the June class.

Bozeman Beach

Class started at Bozeman Beach for a primer and practice before heading out. Bozeman Beach is a man-made lake (see Path 1, above) that feeds into the East Gallatin River. A lake. And it was warm, but the water wasn’t 80 degrees, and we were going to get into the lake to practice tooling around in our BPL-provided packrafts.

To my surprise, the monsters must have realized they were outnumbered, and there were no attacks during our time on flat water. We practiced entry and exit at the shore, then wet reentry, which was frustratingly difficult. To begin the wet reentry, we had to forcibly flip our rafts over while in them, which was reassuringly difficult.

The spray skirt on my packraft, when sealed, also made being submerged upside down a little alarming, and I was grateful to have practice time on flat water, no matter how monster-infested. I’m an able swimmer and comfortable on moving water, but the very real dangers associated with water travel are sobering, and being stuck in an upside-down packraft while bobbing downstream would inspire panic in the levelest head. Entry and exit are a really big deal!

Yo-Yoing on the Madison

I’m the kind of girl who likes to get something just right the first time. That rarely happens, which may be why I have to be coaxed into trying new things. Despite my armchair expertise, I found each and every move that Mike and Andy taught us an exercise in frustration. I ferried across the river just fine, in good style with powerful strokes. Turning around, I kept hearing Andy yell “Addie! Forty-five degrees! FORTY-FIVE DEGREES!” as I carefully manuevered my bow forty-five degrees downstream and began ferrying back, ending up MUCH further downstream than I’d intended. I wasn’t scared (we were on the Booze Cruise of the Madison River, after all), but was exasperated that I had forgotten the second half of cross-current ferrying: upstream. To ferry across the current effectively, point the bow forty-five degrees UPSTREAM.

Thankfully, no one gave up on me, including myself, despite Andy offering to tie me to a tether to keep me in the right stretch of water. He’s so helpful, that one. The other students fared better, especially Greg, who floated around like he’d been doing this all his life. I kept laughing at myself and trying again and found that, while my technique showed little improvement, I was still having a good time. Maybe new things aren’t so bad. Maybe.

The packrafts are surprisingly comfortable, despite being about the size of an average bathtub, and it was a little strange to get used to being so close to the water level. Most packrafts have twelve-inch tubes, part of which are submerged, so you are right there on the surface of the water. Paddling wasn’t difficult, and though my arms sometimes got tired, I wasn’t ever sore, so no new muscle groups were overly exerted (something I had worried about beforehand). Rob and I also discovered the magic of polarized lenses, a small thing that has him more excited about learning to fly-fish.

Sunburnt Rednecks at Greycliff

Our first camp was at the Greycliff Fishing Access. Because of private land use and guide restrictions, we were limited to Fish, Wildlife, and Parks established campgrounds. Upside: picnic tables, flat ground for tents/tarps, and easy river access. Downside: other campers might not be as dedicated to anything like a true wilderness experience. It was surreal to come off the water to the sound of boozy neighbor campers and music blaring from their car stereo. Despite creating an otherwise hostile camping situation, they were friendly, and we did our best to rough it next to the local fauna and their firecrackers. We pitched a variety of shelters that I won’t even pretend to know, and dinner was a tasty mess of unexpectedly filling noodles with Mike Clelland!’s spicy peanut Thai sauce. Mike and Andy interjected lightweight lessons whenever applicable, and everyone slept as soundly as possible once all was quiet on the western front.

Wilderness Cred - 1

Because of runoff, the river was high enough to get us moving along quickly, though many of the features that appear later in the season were covered over, reducing rock garden playgrounds into smooth flat water. The downside of a beginner packrafting class on the Madison began to make itself apparent in the second half of the day. The river flattened and widened, to the point that we paddled enthusiastically whenever we saw the tiniest froth of white on the water, had a laughably short “Whee!” moment, and were back to a simple float trip.

It’s difficult to plan a beginner river course in the spring in Bozeman. Both river conditions and student conditions can vary wildly, and it’s better to plan safely rather than daringly when it comes to peoples’ lives. At least, that’s what I hear.

Rob actively pursued small side channels to vary the pace and view and was aggressive with the river, pursuing any riffle, obstacle, or wave train. I was more of a weenie, just enjoying the float. The freedom and independence of the packraft were deeply relaxing. I could drift with the current (which, for me meant backwards, based on the weight distribution), get closer to interesting cliff swallow formations, dodge the cliff swallow droppings, or practice the various skills we’d learned.

Despite practicing, I only got ONE skill right ONE time (a snicker-snack, perfectly timed). Otherwise, I would pirouette or snicker-snack too early and smack right into the rock. I got better at just avoiding obstacles outright (we had plenty of time to get out of the way), and will perhaps try again on a rockier river, where perfecting my form is a necessity rather than simply a diversion.

Three Forks

At some point on day two, we reached the confluence of the Madison, Jefferson, and Gallatin – making the mighty Missouri. The river widened and deepened again, slowing us to where paddling was needed at first, just to make enough progress to matter. Canoeists and rafters shouted hellos, and the Jefferson’s silty flow made our boats sing with suspected leaks. It was an eerie sound, hearing the millions of tiny pings colliding with our crafts, a shushing hiss that made us wonder at the sheer abrasiveness of the water.

Wilderness Cred - 2

We drifted under bridges both used and abandoned, opined at the function of a remote stone structure that looked like a long horse barn (we decided it was probably a kiln), and mused on what it must have been like for Lewis and Clark to portage up this monster, upstream on brush-clogged banks. We tried our hands at crossing eddy fences, finally seeing the power of those seemingly gentle two lane river roads. When most of the water is going downstream and the eddy is moving upstream, the line between them can suck a packraft under lickety-split, and Greg got dumped. He didn’t lose anything in the river and quickly made use of our learned wet-reentry.

The power of the water is easy to underestimate, and I had no desire to get stuck outside the boat (wet reentry was a chore for me, not because of my bosom, as I jokingly claimed, but probably due to a combination of my PFD getting stuck on the tube and a lack of upper body strength).

Camp that night was just slightly more pleasant in terms of company. Our only neighbors were still heavy drinkers, but instead of liquor, they went straight for our blood. The swarms of mosquitoes and alarmingly visible ticks kept me a little paranoid and kept everyone close to the small fire we built.

Greg brought out some Swiss chocolate he’d schlepped all the way over (he’s currently working in Switzerland), and we tucked in and enjoyed further conversation. Andy is an excellent talker, but he’s also skilled at asking questions to draw people out and gain their opinions, and since everyone there had one or two of THOSE, we had some lively discussions about some pretty random things. This particular feature of camping is my forte, where I feel most comfortable: the relationships. Getting to know everyone a little bit more than simply how they came to the class made them more complete, a three-dimensional rendering of a whole person rather than someone else in a packraft on the same river. A light drizzle sent us reluctantly to our shelters, and we slept like we’d earned it, for we had.

Wilderness Cred - 3

Toston Dam

Our final day of class and river started bright and clear. Breakfast was a delectable mueslix that was yummy enough I’ve since made it at home. We loaded up, consulted our maps, and pushed in. Travel had slowed with the flow of the river, and at about noon, we encountered a stretch that was so slow and still that hard paddling was required to make headway. Past submerged trees and bankside cows, we saw fish jumping and possibly a beaver or muskrat. Rounding a curve that we figured would narrow and speed things up, we instead encountered a dam, not anywhere near where we had expected it. That discovery finally explained our slow progress: we’d been paddling into a headwind on the lake formed by the dam!

The line on the map seemed clear enough though, despite us passing a similar line yesterday that was conspicuously dam-less, and rather than try our derring-do over the spillway, we pulled off and got out to explore, at one point getting close enough to a rattlesnake for him to coil and threaten anyone foolish enough to step within striking distance. We gave him a wide (and wide-eyed) berth. Despite growing up in eastern Montana, with rattlers common in the hills near my hometown, I had never seen a wild one before (though, to be fair, those in zoos can hardly be considered tame).

It turned out that the Toston Dam is a full three or four miles upstream of the small town of Toston, where we’d anticipated it. Since the shuttle wasn’t due for another four hours and none of us felt like waiting, the group decision was to portage around the dam and see what the last few miles held. This was a bit more exciting, since neither the instructors nor any of us had rafted this stretch, but the topo map made it clear that things were probably still pretty safe. Portaging was delightfully easy. The few hundred yards up and down a small hill were as simple as unstringing our loads and hoisting our rafts.

We got in, strapped on our helmets, admired the enormous American white pelicans trolling the tailwater for disoriented fish, and pushed off, making it to the Toston put-in/take-out in good time.

Black and Blue Burgers

A little post-class recon and an evaluation gave us time to think about the last three days, give feedback to the instructors, and watch Andy carefully pack everything into his backpack. He was leaving the next day for his big Alaska tramp and was subsequently peppered with questions about how he does what he does and tricks and tips for not going crazy in the solitude. Rob and I thought that just leaving everything there was a bit of a let-down, so we invited everyone over for burgers once they’d all showered up (we were all pretty ripe) and volunteered to bring a little something so long as it wasn’t Bud Light, which is not permitted in our home. It was fun to socialize a little more, give Andy a good home-cooked meal before he took off, and keep Mike in town for the night so he wasn’t driving back over mountain passes in the dark. Greg brought out another Swiss delicacy: elderflower cordial, which we thoroughly enjoyed after dinner.

It was a great way to cap a fun weekend. Cameraderie, boats, and lots of sun almost require a cold beer, tricked out burger, and happy laughter to complete the experience. I’m now plotting ways to sneak my friends and family in a packraft, and my son, Blake, has cheerfully requested that he come too. Perhaps being an armchair expert isn’t so useless after all!

Alpacka Ultralight Paddle Review

A packrafting paddle is not a particularly special thing. It’s simply a kayak paddle, capable of being broken down into two or four pieces for easy stowage while inside or attached to a pack.

Alpacka Ultralight Paddle Review - 1
The author’s son gives the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle a fair shake while playing bowman in the two-person Alpacka Double Duck packraft on the Jefferson River in June 2009.

INTRODUCTION

Ryan’s River Journal (June 2009): As I teach and watch my eleven-year-old son, Chase, to packraft, I can’t help but think that the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle is a godsend. He’s not yet grown into the full sized kayak paddles, and the little Ultralight gives him confidence on the water.

A packrafting paddle is not a particularly special thing. It’s simply a kayak paddle, capable of being broken down into two or four pieces for easy stowage while inside or attached to a pack.

I usually look at three key factors (other than length) when selecting a paddle: weight, durability, and blade surface area.

Weight

The weight of an average four-piece fiberglass packrafting paddle is about 40 ounces (e.g. the Aqua Bound Shred FG), although hybrid paddles with carbon fiber shafts can weigh in the range of 34 to 36 ounces (e.g. the Aqua Bound Splat Hybrid). Full carbon paddles are typically 28 to 32 ounces (e.g. the Sawyer Packraft Paddle). All things being equal, lighter is better, of course, and if you haven’t figured that out by now, then maybe you stumbled onto this website by accident. In that case, trust me when I tell you that yes, lighter really is better (with caveats of course). For the packrafter, a lighter paddle makes both raftpacking easier (less energy is required to haul the pack) and packrafting easier (less energy is required to lift and swing the paddle).

Durability

Durability is impacted primarily by the material used to construct the shaft and the blade. The most common materials are carbon and fiberglass. Paddles with fiberglass shafts and/or blades are generally considered to be more durable than carbon ones, but heavier and cheaper.

Durability is of some importance to me while packrafting (especially in the backcountry where paddles are hard to repair and sort of important for transportation). I use my paddle for all sorts of manufacturer-prohibited activities, including pushing off shorelines and rocks, slapping branches out of the way as I paddle brushy creeks, and pitching my tarp shelter. I have used my paddle as weapon against a grizzly bear (all for show, of course, but I wouldn’t hesitate to whack-a-bear right in the kisser if needed), a snow digging tool, a plate, and a packraft polo stick (using an inflated Aloksak with a little water inside as the ball) on a high mountain lake.

Blade Surface Area

The surface area of the blade is also important. Blades with a higher surface area can push more water, and make paddling stillwater more efficient, and make you more maneuverable on whitewater. The surface area of a kayak paddle blade generally falls into the range of 80 to 100 square inches (for touring paddles used on flatwater) or 110 to 125 square inches (for whitewater paddles). Most packrafters will realize the benefits afforded by a big-bladed whitewater paddle. The added surface area allows for a little forgiveness in bad technique. Since most packrafters come from a trekking background, and haven’t been schooled in efficient paddling techniques, big blade paddles are probably a good thing.

But, as you might suspect, more surface area equals more weight.

The Alpacka Ultralight Paddle

Sometimes, a less durable paddle, and/or one with a smaller blade surface area, may be OK for some types of packrafting. Of course, we’re not really after less durability or a smaller blade surface, we just want a lighter paddle and may be willing to make a few compromises.

And that’s where the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle comes in: a 23-ounce paddle for packrafters. Thus, the purpose of this review, is to let you know what my experiences with the AULP have been over the past several months of paddling, packing, and polo-ing.

FEATURES AND SPECIFICATIONS

A number of characteristics makes the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle unique relative to the packrafting paddles mentioned above. It has what I consider a “small-diameter” shaft (1.0 inch, vs. 1.25 inches for the Aqua Bound Splat), the shaft is made of aluminum, it’s a three-piece instead of a four-piece paddle, the blade surface area is quite small, and the length is pretty short. Whenever I pick it up, I can’t help but think that it’s a miniaturized paddle and not a serious packrafting tool. More on that later.

Specifications

  Manufactured by:

Pacific Designs

  Distributed by:

Alpacka Raft LLC (http://www.alpackaraft.com/)

  Shaft Material:

6061-T6 aluminum

  Shaft Diameter:

1.0 in

  # Pieces:

3

  Collapsed Length:

26.5 in

  Assembled Length:

74.5 in (190 cm)

  Blade Surface Area:

83 sq. in.

  Blade Material:

ABS

  Weight:

23 oz

PERFORMANCE

For this review, I will present my findings with the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle in the context of both RAFTPACKING (carrying packrafting gear on your back) and PACKRAFTING (carrying trekking gear on your packraft).

Raftpacking

The raftpacker is most concerned about how the paddle stows on the outside of the pack. Now, when I say “most concerned,” I only mean that it’s the most concerning thing about carrying the paddle. The real level of concern here is rather low: paddles stow easily on most packs. How easily it stows is almost never part of my decision-making framework when selecting a paddle.

However…

There are a few situations in which I select a “more” stowable paddle versus a “less” stowable paddle. One of them is when I packraft the creeks of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness adjacent to the northern boundary of Yellowstone National Park. When I’m traveling through the Red Zone (the NP proper, where river paddling is expressly forbidden by law!) to access a non-Red Zone creek, I like to carry my paddles inside my pack. Meeting up with Park Rangers on a trail with two blades sticking up high is cause for serious job distress for them, and it’s worth simply avoiding any confrontations that may ensue – my experience with them suggests that any paddler inside the park (especially one carrying paddles!) is assumed guilty until time, storytelling, and perhaps a shared beer justifies innocence. Regardless, if you travel through the Park with kayak blades sticking out of your pack, you risk losing an hour or more if a ranger is encountered.

Ryan’s River Journal (June 2007): I’m finding it increasingly unwise to attempt to packraft rivers and creeks that flow across the borders of Yellowstone National Park (which is closed to river boating), not because of my lack of respect for the boundary or the rules, but because it takes such a darn long time to explain to a ranger what’s going on with the kayak paddles sticking out of my backpack. Today, we spent two hours explaining our story and showing digital photos of our descents of Slough, Buffalo, and Hellroaring Creeks from their headwaters to the Park boundary. I guess it didn’t help that we were now heading down to Gardiner, Montana, via the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone, well-known for its underground kayak descents by rogue boaters…

The other time I want a more stowable paddle is when I travel. I want the paddle blades and shaft protected deep inside my pack while the gorillas in air cargo toss it around.

The Alpacka Ultralight Paddle breaks down into only three pieces, instead of four, and its collapsed length is 26.5 inches, which is a few inches longer than typical four- and five-piece packrafting/kayak paddles (which have collapsed lengths ranging from 22 to 24 inches). However, the thinner shaft diameter, fewer number of pieces, and smaller blades actually makes the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle marginally easier to stow both inside, and outside, the pack. Unfortunately, its longer collapsed length (compared to my Sawyer Packraft Paddle, which breaks down into five pieces to a collapsed length of 22 inches) means that it won’t fit into my smaller (shorter) day and overnight packs.

The relatively compact size, low packed volume, and light weight of the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle make it a good raftpacking paddle and one that deserves a hard look when the packraft spends most of its time on your back rather than in the water.

Packrafting

Flatwater

Two characteristics I consider when selecting a paddle for flatwater paddling are paddle length and blade surface area.

I prefer longer paddles (> 220 cm) for flatwater paddling. A longer paddle allows for a wider stroke radius that makes it easier to keep the packraft tracking straight.

Packrafting philosophers like to espouse the smaller surface area of touring blades (which are sort of long and skinny, in contrast to the shorter and wider blades of whitewater paddles). As the packraft is tracking, they say that the little blades are easier to paddle and it seems to take less effort to keep the packraft going. However, this is probably a questionable benefit, since packrafts don’t really track straight. The efficiency differences between using a touring paddle and a whitewater paddle for flatwater packrafting are probably meaningless unless you are an extremely efficient paddler who is adept at keeping a packraft straight and have a lot of time for philosophizing.

For flatwater paddling on still water, because some efficiency is lost in poor tracking, the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle’s little blades are a liability relative to paddles with larger blades, and you’ll expend more energy propelling your boat.

Ryan’s River Journal (May 2009). I can’t compete today. I’m getting my butt kicked playing packraft polo and running the packraft races on the pond because I brought the little Alpacka Ultralight Paddle with me. What was I thinking? Of saving 8 ounces of weight on the long walk from the car to the beach? Sheesh.

However, for flatwater paddling on moving water, where propulsion is less important than ferrying and steering, the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle shines. I think this is the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle’s element, and the type of water that it was created for. I thus heartily recommend the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle on moving water where powerful ferrying is not needed. For a packraft, that typically means Class I and low Class II water (PR1 – PR2).

Ryan’s River Journal (July 2008). I was a little worried about toting this little paddle with me for such a long way, but for this big, flat, remote river (Thorofare River), I’m appreciating its weight while raftpacking and packrafting.

Whitewater

For whitewater paddling (high Class II and above), the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle is an inadequate tool. Short shaft length, small blades, and too much shaft flexibility means that the powerful strokes and ferrying required to avoid obstacles and hit the right current lines are going to be compromised.

Ryan’s River Journal (May 2009). What an idiot. I can’t believe I attempted to descend this river (Madison River, Beartrap Canyon) with this little paddle. I’m walking back to the car. Great little paddle, big honkin’ frothin’ river. I’m cold and wet and all swum out. Major user error.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle outperforms other paddles in a pretty narrow window – Class I/II- moving water where the risk of hitting obstacles and dangerous current lines is low. Its light weight and reasonably short collapsed length make it a solid raftpacking paddle, a suitable backup or spare for long group expeditions, and an excellent choice for young kids learning to packraft. However, its shaft flexibility, low blade surface area, and short overall length make it a poor choice for paddling both stillwater and Class II+ and higher whitewater.

Comments from two fellow packrafters and Backpacking Light staff reflect this conclusion:

"I prefer it to a set of Ping Pong paddles on flat water, but I’d rather spend another eight ounces for a more durable paddle with more surface area on Class II or above." — Mike Martin.

"The Ultralight Paddle from Alpacka is just that – ultralight. Having used it to paddle the Scout packraft on calm water, I would recommend it for similar pursuits. Not having paddled it in whitewater, but imagining the potential for breakage, I would not recommend it for this in any event other than an emergency." — Sam Haraldson.

I think it’s telling from both comments that the issue of durability was raised. I too, get pretty nervous when paddling the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle with any sort of power, or using it to keep my boat from bouncing against a canyon wall, or jamming its blade into the rocks to shove off from shore. I’ve not yet broken mine (I have that ultralighter’s disease whereby my gear gets abused right to the breaking point, but I don’t often exceed it) after many days of hard use, so maybe our lack-of-durability fears are a little inflated.

Finally, a caveat and note for packrafters with exceptional skills and experience. If your paddling technique is solid, you know how to handle a packraft in whitewater, and your boat weight is low (e.g., unloaded), you might consider the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle for remote expeditions where sustained Class II whitewater is possible. Still, even most experienced packrafters will be wishing for larger paddle plades and a stiffer paddle in Class III whitewater and above.

Chris Robertson, one of the winners of the 2009 Alaskan Mountain Wilderness Classic, said this about the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle:

"I think Sheri [Tingey, the founder of Alpacka Raft LLC] has done it again with this paddle. She continues to strive and challenge herself to make lighter weight packrafting gear. However, this paddle, like the Scout [a smaller version of the full-sized Alpacka rafts], is not designed for sustained whitewater. We took both this paddle and the Scout well beyond the lunatic fringe of Alpacka’s intended use [in the Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic in 2009]. Doing so, we earned a few funny stories, but in next year’s race I will have my old standby Alpacka and [Aqua Bound] Splat paddle in my race pack."

With all the caveats, however, I still find myself tempted to grab the Alpacka Ultralight Paddle on more occasions than warrant its niche use. I really like its small size and weight, and that alone makes it a thoroughly enjoyable paddle for lazy days of packrafting down the Big Hole, Jefferson, Madison, Yellowstone, and Missouri Rivers near my home, as well as my two favorite "remote but easy rivers" – the Thorofare and South Fork Flathead.

Turbo Bear Bag Hanging

Learn the tips and techniques to ensure that YOU, not bears, are eating your food at the end of the day.

Introduction

Yogi and Boo Boo have nothing on Sierra bears. Those Jellystone miscreants snagged a few unguarded picnic baskets with their clever schemes, but for athletic achievement and cunning, Yosemite bears – the superstars of Rancheria Falls, Tuolumne Meadows and Little Yosemite Valley – take all the awards. A bear’s incredible sense of smell and voracious appetite naturally lead him to wonderfully smelling, calorically dense human food. What would you eat if you had to spend the summer eating to survive a winter without food? A few berries, leaves, and grubs? Or a backpacker’s bag of Molasses Chews?

I’ve seen bears send cubs onto limbs too thin for a full-grown bear to go out on. I’ve seen them do full release dyno moves from tree to food bag. I once thought I had a bearproof hang, until mama carefully began testing branches to figure out which the food was hung from. Using the moonlight, she saw the food bag wiggle when she walked out onto my particular branch. When she started to chew on my slightly too thin hang branch, I spent the next half hour throwing rocks, yelling, and running to scare her to someone else’s camp. She spent much of the rest of the night unsuccessfully working on my better second food hang before wandering off with her twins (I typically split my hangs in high bear traffic areas such as Tuolumne Meadows).

In order to keep your food to yourself and to keep backcountry bears from becoming “problem bears” – that is to say, “dead bears” –  you’ve got to protect your food. Where bear hangs are allowed, an excellent bear hang goes a long way in protecting both your food and the bears. But… what constitutes an excellent bear hang? Rangers report that most backpackers can’t hang their food well enough to keep bears from getting it. Because of poor techniques, more and more Sierra Nevada wilderness areas prohibit hanging your food. For the lightweight backpacker, the inability to hang food – whether by personal limitation or mandate – means adding a minimum two pounds of bear canister to your lightweight load and subtracting $225 from your bank account. For a mere $80, you can get a canister just under three pounds, but no matter your choice, the weight penalty is severe.

If you consider the extra volume, weight, and durability of a pack needed to carry a canister, the net effect may be closer to three or four pounds, depending on your specific choices. Being required to contain all of your food in canisters makes longer, non-resupplied trips much more difficult. On longer trips, it may be hard to fit all of your food in a single canister and if two are required, well, you’d better be a superultralighter in everything else to bear the weight. Learn a few techniques, practice them to become proficient, and perhaps bear hanging will remain a viable option in most backcountry areas.

Turbo Bear Bag Hanging - 1
Hungry bears – protected from hunters in most of the Sierra – aren’t afraid to invite themselves to dinner.

The Branch

Picking a bear hang starts with finding a tree with an appropriate branch. Fifteen feet up and five feet from the base of the tree is the minimum required, but with ursine acrobats, the higher the hang, the better. If you can hang your food from a limb thirty to fifty feet high, it’s much more risky for a bear to attempt. It also gives you the option of placing your food bag ten to fifteen feet below your hanging branch, which further confuses bears. If possible, pick a limb that really sticks out, is six inches in diameter at the attachment to the tree, and has multiple branches – preferably that obstruct a bear’s progress.

It’s best if your branch stands somewhat alone – it’s easier to keep the food away from other branches the bear could use, and it helps keep your food from getting stuck when retrieving it. It’s important to pick a branch too thick for a bear to break off, but to hang your rope far enough out on this branch that it won’t support a bear’s weight – even a cub’s. Ponderosa pines and ancient lodgepoles most frequently have branches that meet these criteria. Pick a live tree and branch for your hang, because dead wood, even when very thick, is much more brittle and easy for a bear to break. The rope is less likely to slip off of your branch if the branch tip turns up or if there are perpendicular side branches to catch the rope. You don’t want your rope to slide off of the branch should your adversary bend it while walking partway out.

If you’re at high elevation or in an area such as Colorado, dominated by spruce, it’s highly unlikely you’ll be able to find an appropriate single branch for a hang. In these circumstances/areas, the “double hang” technique can provide suitable protection. Pick two trees ten to twenty feet apart with branches at least fiteen feet from the ground. The side branches will likely reach only one to two feet from the trunk of the tree. Hang one side of the rope over the best branch available, then the other end over a branch on the other tree (you may also use two separate ropes). Tie your food bag in the middle (the figure of eight on a bight works well and unties easily). Pull up one rope leaving your food bag three to six feet from the top, then pull up the other rope so that the food bag is approximately half way between the trees. While less than ideal, this technique can provide pretty good protection.

Turbo Bear Bag Hanging - 4
Two amazing hangs were possible from this open Ponderosa Pine.

The Rope

You should carry at least fifty of rope for hanging your food. Even with fifty feet, the perfect branch can be just out of reach, and I carry a minimum length of one hundred feet to maximize my hanging options. Your rope should be at least three millimeters thick and have a tightly woven sheath. Too thin, and you run the chance of it getting stuck by sawing into your branch. Too thick, and it’s heavy to carry and harder to throw up into the tree. Loosely woven ropes are prone to snags and getting stuck on branches.

Although Spectra ropes are amazingly strong for their weight, the extra strength isn’t usually needed (who’s going to carry one hundred pounds of food?) and can be a liability should your rope get stuck during the hanging process. If you snag a 300-pound test, you have a chance of breaking the rope and retrieving most of it. If you snag 600- to 1000-pound test, the rope is going to stay there for good. In this same vein, I generally leave the inevitable nicks that occur when the hanging rock lands on the end of the rope. If you have small nicks in your rope near the rock, you have a better chance of breaking the rope should it get stuck. However, you want to tie off your food bag above the nicks.

The Weight

Once you’ve picked your tree and branch, you’ve got to get your rope over the branch. If you try to throw the coiled rope over the branch, you’re likely to get only a tangled mess. You’ve got to have weight at the end of the rope. If there are rocks, or even a dense piece of wood, you can tie this to the end of your rope. Rectangular rocks are easier to attach and keep attached to your rope. Rounded river rocks often become independent projectiles. While this may be entertaining, there’s a clear risk of injury. Goliath is rumored to have met his end while David attempted to hang the Israelite’s food.

If you’re camping in areas without rocks, a small silnylon bag (preferably padded with a small piece of insulite or a dirty sock) can be filled with sand or pebbles and used as your rope weight. Whatever you choose to throw, pick your weight carefully. Lighter weights throw higher, but are difficult to retrieve from the branch. Heavier weights severely limit your throwing range.

Turbo Bear Bag Hanging - 5
Other bear bag hangs.

The Throw

As pointed out earlier, the ability to hang your food high opens up options that help keep your food away from bears. Most people throw overhand style – like a baseball pitcher. However, even professional pitchers are rarely called on to strike out the man in the moon. Throwing upward is much more difficult than throwing forward. Generally, it’s hard to throw a rock more than twenty to twenty-five feet up with the overhand technique. However, using the “cowboy throw” a technique I have practiced since childhood, it is possible to reliably achieve heights of forty to fifty feet. This technique involves spinning the rope tied rock around in a counter-clockwise circle (clockwise for us lefties) and releasing the rope when the rock is on a trajectory to fly over your chosen branch. There is a learning curve to this technique, and your practice throws had better be far away from things you don’t want to break. However, once the it’s learned, there’s no throw that’s going to get your rope and food higher in a tree. You should still keep your backpack partner well out of range despite how impressive your hanging technique may be.

Since the highest hangs are achieved only with fairly light rocks, there may be some trouble getting the other end of the rope back to the ground. Whipping the end can assist when the rock won’t slide down by itself. It doesn’t always work: I’ve had to pull down otherwise “perfect” hangs when I couldn’t get the rock end of the rope back to earth.

The Hang

Once you have the rope over the branch and have retrieved both ends, there remain several choices to finish off your hang. Traditional teaching promotes the “counterbalance” technique, whereby two food bags of equal weight are made, one is pulled up partway into the tree, the second attached, and a stick or hiking pole is used to push the second up to the level of the first. This method relies on a perfect branch and finding a long stick to push the food up/down. The counterbalance method limits the height of your hang to the length of your reach extended by a stick or hiking pole. It is often difficult to fully equalize the weight of your food bags, and bears can shake the branch and gradually bring the heavier bag down without even getting near the rope. Counterbalancing also makes it more difficult to get the food up and down.

Because of these limitations, I prefer to pull my food up and tie off the rope to a second tree. If you use the “tie off” method, there are several wrinkles you need to know to maximally protect your food. First, walk back underneath the branch your food is hung over to shorten the angle of the hang and reduce the risk it could slip off the end of the branch.

Turbo Bear Bag Hanging - 2
A wide angle makes it easier for the rope to slip off the end of the branch (left). Walking back underneath the branch narrows the rope’s angle, making it less likely to slip off (right).

Second, walk a long way away from the tree your food is hung from and have the rope hit the “tie off” tree above your head level. This limits the possibility that the bear might accidentally bump into your tie off rope. Choose a tie off tree that is flexible, or at least has some flexible side branches to reduce the risk that the bear could snap the rope. Bears have generally poor vision and probably can’t see the rope. However, they may accidentally bump into it and will swat at it with their paws. With thinner ropes, high friction hangs, or heavy food weights, consider wearing gloves or wrapping the rope around a stick to facilitate getting your food into the air. Speaking of friction, try to make sure that you wrap the tie off end around the tree so that your knot alone doesn’t take the weight of your hang bag. On cold mornings, having tied an easily broken stick in your figure of eight knot on the food bag end makes the knot at this end much easier to untie as well.

A variation to the tie off method involves feeding your pulling rope through a carabiner attached to your food bag. This both narrows the angle of the hang and allows you to pull your food further away from the tree. It’s pretty impressive to have your food thirty-five feet in the air, fifteen feet below the hanging branch and twenty to twenty-five feet from the trunk of the tree. What’s a bear going to do if he sees this hang? Walk to someone else’s camp or start digging for termites!

Turbo Bear Bag Hanging - 3
People give perspective to just how high this bag is hung. Note the “through the rope” technique.

The “PCT method” is another variation that narrows the angle of the hang and doesn’t involve tying to a second tree. With this method, you tie a stick to the pulling rope as high as you can after you’ve pulled up the food. When you release the pulling rope, the food begins to slide down – until the stick you’ve tied wedges in the carabiner and jams its further descent. The free end of the pulling rope dangles below your hang until you pull it up in the morning to retrieve your stick, then retrieve your food. Bears can’t duplicate this delicate feat of dexterity, and the hanging rope is useless to them. This method allows a pretty good hang with a shorter rope, but doesn’t allow very good adjustments over final food placement.

More on bear bag hanging techniques can be found here.

Summary

A good bear hang is the crème fraîche on a cake and berry campsite. It serves as a conversation piece, a source of admiration, and can even improve your sleep. More importantly, it keeps you and your food safe from bears and bears safe from the ranger’s gun. Like nearly everything in life, little details can mean the difference between success and failure. A cheery breakfast greets you if you succeed, and a hungry hike points its finger back to your car if you don’t. Practice the techniques, learn the subtlety of rope, branch, tree, and throw and you’ll be rewarded with the satisfaction of a technique few can duplicate. Also satisfying: breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

New Wilderness! Dolly Sods North & Roaring Plains West

There were 37,000 new wilderness acres in my home state… how could I not go walking?

New Wilderness

On March 30, 2009 the United States gained more than two million acres of new wilderness. No, it wasn’t through the quiet annexation of Canadian territory – it was through legislation that set aside the federally-owned land as “designated wilderness.” Of all those acres, the first 37,000 were in my home state of West Virginia, and I decided to celebrate the occasion by visiting each of the new wilderness tracts in the state. The second trip of my endeavor was a forty-mile, two-and-a-half-day circuit through the Dolly Sods North and Roaring Plains West wilderness areas in the Monongahela National Forest. The experience left me with very wet feet, but also with cautious optimism about the future of my wild home.

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A large circuit through the wilderness areas, a total of forty miles. Roughly fifteen miles each of the first two days and just over ten on the final morning. Map by Jordan Klemick.

The Act

The law that created the new wilderness was the Omnibus Public Land Management Act of 2009. Aside from creating or expanding wilderness areas in nine states, it also gave protection to over 1,000 miles of “wild and scenic” rivers, established new conservation areas and scenic trails, and made permanent the National Landscape Conservation System, which incorporates into one plan myriad land protection designations in the American West. It represented the integration of 160 smaller bills and was the most significant legislation of its kind in years.

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One of several water falls cascading down the Sods’ rocky slopes.

It is ironic that such good news for some of the country’s most wild and pristine land came from an in-filled, over-developed former swamp on the Maryland-Virginia border, but it passed by wide margins in both the U.S. House and Senate. It was the result of years of hard work by wilderness advocacy groups and lawmakers friendly to the cause. After codifying the bill into law with his pen, President Obama captured its importance in an Oval Office address:

“It is fitting that we meet on a day like this. Winter’s hardships are slowly giving way to spring, and our thoughts naturally tend to turn to the outdoors. We emerge from the shelter offered by home and work, and we look around and we’re reminded that the most valuable things in this life are those things that we already possess.



As Americans, we possess few blessings greater than the vast and varied landscapes that stretch the breadth of our continent. Our lands have always provided great bounty — food and shelter for the first Americans, for settlers and pioneers; the raw materials that grew our industry; the energy that powers our economy.



What these gifts require in return is our wise and responsible stewardship. As our greatest conservationist President, Teddy Roosevelt, put it almost a century ago, ‘I recognize the right and duty of this generation to develop and use the natural resources of our land; but I do not recognize the right to waste them, or to rob, by wasteful use, the generations that come after us.’

That’s the spirit behind the bipartisan legislation I’m signing today — legislation among the most important in decades to protect, preserve, and pass down our nation’s most treasured landscapes to future generations.”

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A colorful moss-covered maple.

Wilderness Designation

A wilderness designation is the greatest level of protection that public land can receive and still be accessible to backcountry hikers and backpackers. It came into being in the Wilderness Act of 1964 and was poetically described by the Act as a place that

“[In] contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is… an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain. An area of wilderness is… an area of undeveloped Federal land retaining its primeval character and influence, without permanent improvements or human habitation, which is protected and managed so as to preserve its natural conditions and which… generally appears to have been affected primarily by the forces of nature, with the imprint of man’s work substantially unnoticeable [and] has outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation…”

It may not be surprising that the bill was co-authored by Wilderness Society advocate Howard Zahniser. It doesn’t match the writing of Meriwether Lewis, John Muir, or Edward Abby, but it’s not bad for a piece of legislation. It still describes the kind of places that are surely worth visiting.

For their part, the federal agencies that manage designated wilderness areas have interpreted the definition to generally mean no roads, no motorized vehicles or bicycles, no permanent shelters, and only minimal, if any, trail markings. Management practices generally shun convenience and comfort. The minimal exceptions that are allowed are made in the name of resource preservation and not ease of use. When read, such guidelines sound almost hostile towards the visitor, and to some degree that’s exactly what they are. Wilderness is not land under human dominion… it is where one is merely a “visitor who does not remain.”

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Boulder fields and flagged red spruce for which the northern Sods are known.

Aside from its strict management guidelines, what makes wilderness designation so important is that it is statutory. There are other federal lands that are governed by a similarly strict regulatory guideline, known as Management Prescription 6.2. The management of these areas, however, is subject to regulatory whim, and recent years have shown what vastly different approaches successive administrations can take towards undisturbed land. Designated wilderness can only be changed by an act of Congress, and until there is a constitutional amendment safeguarding our “great blessing,” the protection is as permanent as it gets.

Wild, Wonderful

Unfortunately for West Virginia and the rest of the eastern United States, the National Forest Service initially found no land east of the Mississippi River that it felt primitive enough to be designated as wilderness under the original act. There was scarcely an acre in the East that had been left entirely undisturbed by logging, roads, or some other kind of development. Fortunately, Congress recognized both the need for such protection in the East, as well as the “wildness” of even second or third (or fourth) growth forests and passed the Eastern Wilderness Areas Act of 1975.

The lion’s share of federally protected land in West Virginia is part of the Monongahela National Forest. The MNF consists of over 900,000 acres and is well known for its hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, and white water rafting. Before 2009, the MNF had about 78,000 acres of designated wilderness in the Cranberry, Dolly Sods, Laurel Fork, and Otter Creek wilderness areas. The Big Draft, Roaring Plains West, and Spice Run areas are now added to that list, as are large extensions to the Cranberry and Dolly Sods wilderness areas. I planned to visit each over the summer.

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Clean, clear water from a mountain spring.

Unfortunately, there were also eleven other proposed wilderness areas, including the North and East portions of the Roaring Plains, that didn’t make it into the final bill. These areas will likely continue to be managed under the 6.2 “backcountry recreation” management prescription for the near future. It’s the approximately 88,000 acres under this management that stand the best chance of later becoming designated wilderness. Before this year, new wilderness hadn’t been added to the state since 1983, and hopefully it won’t be another twenty-five years before more of these lands are permanently protected.

Dolly Sods

There is perhaps no place that better exemplifies both the kind of abuse that our eastern forests have borne as well as their great potential for recovery. Dolly Sods gained its name from the Dahle family that once pastured their animals there, but it was at one time entirely covered with large red spruce and balsam fir. The land suffered fires, clear-cutting, and the incursion of railroad tracks in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. During World War II, the Sods were used for artillery practice by the Army, and live mortars have been found there as recently as 1997. Nothing says “wilderness” like a chance to really put that bomb proof gear to the test.

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Relic of the Sods’ former life. At least it appears to be from the old rails and not from the explosives that once called this place home.

Despite their misuse, the Sods are now one of the most popular wilderness areas in the East. The spruce are gradually making their way back to the northern Sods, which are dominated by spagham bog and blueberry heath. It’s actually this new growth, combined with the elevation of the Sods’ high plateau, that make it unique to the region. The Sods are frequently compared to Canadian muskeg, and experience severe weather because of both their elevation and position on the Allegheny Front, a ridge that disturbs weather patterns and constitutes the Eastern Continental Divide in the region.

With the new expansion, Dolly Sods has 17,371 acres of wilderness, a substantial increase from its original acreage of 10,215. While it is surrounded by National Forest land to the east, west, and south, these lands have been put to other uses, and it has likely reached the extent of its expansion.

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Crossing into the Dolly Sods Expansion.

Roaring Plains

To the immediate south of Dolly Sods and across the Red River Valley are the Roaring Plains. They are slightly higher than the Sods, reaching as much as 4,700 feet, and are wrapped to the east and south by the Allegheny Front. With over 3,000 feet of relief above parts of the surrounding valleys, the Plains are known for their beautiful views and nearly constant winds.

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Overlooking the Red Creek Valley with Breathed Mountain overlook on the right.

The Plains have their own mixed forest, but have more coverage than do much of the Sods. They are also rockier, with boulder fields that ride along the area’s ridge. They have received less formal protection than the Sods have, but have also received less attention, so it’s easier to find solitude.

Only the 6,792 western acres of the Plains have been designated as wilderness, but the recognition of this initial section is an important first step towards the preservation of the surrounding area. The 8,346 acres of the east and north Plains will likely continue to be managed under the 6.2 prescription. With continued advocacy and appropriate management, the Plains may some day see a wilderness expansion like that of Sods.

Wilderness Circuit

Given the chance to visit both the Sods and the Plains in one trip, and on a weekday for even more solitude, I was more excited to make this trip than any other wilderness area I would visit. I planned for a more relaxed pace than I normally schedule, leaving plenty of time for exploring.

Day 1

Four hours and only a few missed turns after leaving my Pittsburgh apartment, I arrived at the Red Creek trailhead near Laneville, West Virginia. The weather forecast for my trip had recently gone from three days of sun to three days of likely rain and thunderstorms, so I flicked on my weather radio expecting the even, robotic narration of the National Weather Service. I found only static on all seven channels. I would later realize that I was on the outskirts of the National Radio Quiet Zone, created for the benefit of the nearby Greenbank Radio Observatory. At the time, it gave me the satisfaction of feeling more remote, if less certain about the weather.

I changed into my hiking duds, locked my car, and exchanged small talk with a photographer heading out for a day hike. With that, I started into the original Dolly Sods Wilderness. I was eager to start my route and walked quickly through the mixed forest. I made an unavoidably wet crossing of Red Creek and encountered the first of three modes the wilderness trails would take: rock. In some parts the trail became so rocky and steep that it felt like little more than an overgrown talus field from some long extinct mount. It was hard on the feet, but made for some nice waterfalls on a parallel stream.

As I headed north to higher elevation, the dense hardwoods became sparser, and the forest that was there became increasingly dominated by spruce, pine, and fir. Trail conditions also changed, and I met the trail’s second phase: water. My shoes had started to dry since my earlier crossing, but they were again soaked and would remain that way for the next two days. Streams that had rushed through the valley and trickled beside the trail on the climb now meandered across and sometimes down the path.

I also walked up and into the fog that had been hanging overhead that morning. As I hiked across the boundary of the existing wilderness and into the new expansion, an area known as Dolly Sods North, the clearing around the trail widened and mist started to float by under a light breeze. It obscured views that would have been to the west, but gave the area a quiet, ethereal feel. The strange atmosphere heightened the sense that I was walking into a foreign place. As beautiful as the main wilderness had been, it was this terrain that was most remarkable for the region, and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Continuing on, I came across large boulder fields of the area’s white sandstone. I must have spent over an hour off trail, scrambling among the rocks. Moist lichen made them slick, and I was lucky I could I carry my light pack with me as my route in certainly wasn’t going to be my route out. For my trouble, I was rewarded with more fog, but also a good view of the rocks and flagged red spruce that rose between the outcroppings.

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A trail that looks deceivingly dry, though just bog and cursing lay ahead.

As I hiked on, the winds picked up and I took shelter behind a rock shelf for a quick lunch, donning my rain jacket to break the chill. Heading east and then south, I came across the final and worst trail condition: bog. The nastiest was on an old railroad grade, and unlike the ground that just had standing water, some areas of bog looked deceivingly solid. No sooner would you plant your foot than you would be in real danger of losing a shoe!

By this time it was getting late, and I was lucky to find some solid ground and an established campsite to occupy for the evening. I set up camp, made dinner, and hauled my odorants up over a branch. That night, the damp soup I had been walking through would pour down all around me, and I was glad to have a full coverage shelter.

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Bundled up against the strong westerly wind.

Day 2

The morning was overcast, but with good visibility after losing its veil of the previous day. As I ate my breakfast I contemplated a large aluminum pot that sat discarded next to the fire ring. It was huge, probably between two and three gallons in capacity, and had a hole in its bottom. It was smack dab in the middle of the wilderness, miles from the nearest road. I had picked up some small bits of junk I found at the site, but was perplexed by what had led to the abandonment of this monstrosity. Either a seriously heavy, solo hiker had left his bathtub after it sprung a leak, or a whole group had made the collective decision that they couldn’t be bothered to take it back out. Either way, I discovered one more benefit of a light load – it leaves plenty of carrying capacity to pack out even the most obscene garbage.

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Packing out Paul Bunyan’s discarded mug in improved visibility.

As I crossed back into the main wilderness the sun made its first appearance, and I took the opportunity to dry out and eat lunch. The trails had turned back into stone, and I was treated to some gorgeous vistas of the Red Creek Valley. I hiked down and across the creek twice more, welcomed by basking river snakes. The trail here, as elsewhere in the old wilderness, was marked by nothing more than cairns, which hid among the rocks of the river’s shores. After finding my way across and up a steep climb, I came to some fresh springs with water that, thankfully, didn’t bear the slight spagham aftertaste of that in the north Sods.

Hoping to make it into the heart of the Roaring Plains by that night, I hiked quickly to the southern border of the Sods. I was lucky to find a trashcan at the trailhead, and bid farewell to my aluminum stow-away. I walked a short distance of forest road and entered Roaring Plains East. This was one of the proposed wilderness areas that hadn’t made the final cut.

As I walked on, I saw some of the reason why. There had been a few bridges in the north Sods, evidence of its long life before designation, but the beginning of this trail was practically a boardwalk. It surely kept day hikers’ feet dry, but was out of place. Moving past the tracts of planking, the trail eventually turned back into the familiar rock and water. I made a ballet of hopping from island to island, for entertainment value more than anything else. My feet were still soaked.

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Navigating thick brush and a narrow trail.

The altitude here was higher than that of the north Sods, but it had kept more of its tree cover, which was primarily coniferous. The first part of the trail followed a wide ridge with the Allegheny Front to the east and a valley of the inner Plains to the west. As the trail turned east, I had to decide between going off trail to stay on the ridge or sticking to the beaten path. Given the lowering sun, the dense brush of the cross-country option, and the fact that it was my first time in the area, I decided to see what the marked trails had to offer. If there’s one thing I will change for my next trip, it will be to stick to the ridge to catch more of its dramatic views.

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Just into the Roaring Plains West Wilderness. Established campsites feel too civilized, but protect larger sections of forest when an area sees high use.

Heading east, I dropped into heavy rhododendron thickets. Giving rise to the state’s flower, the plant was common on the route, but not in such abundance. I pictured what the trail would look like later in the summer, covered in a blanket of large pink blossoms. Turning onto another section of forest road, I imagined what it would look like if it were allowed to fall into disuse, with green sprouts erupting through its tracks.

I crossed over the utility road that followed a buried natural gas pipeline and signaled my entry into the section that had been newly designated – Roaring Plains West Wilderness. After only a few hundred feet, I made camp for the last night of the trek, falling asleep to the white noise of a rushing nearby stream.

Day 3

I woke with the sunrise and ate my oatmeal as I started to hike. It was my last day, and I figured I could get back to my car by noon. I was once again on flat, more open terrain, but the surrounding bushes were more substantial than they had been in the north Sods. Contrary to their name, the Roaring Plains were also calmer this morning than the Sods had been two days earlier.

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Fast food on the second and final morning.

The marked trail kept me further from the ridge than I would have liked, and I hurried to a section that would take me closer to the view. Among a tall stand of pines I finally saw an overlook and realized what I had been missing. The sky was overcast, but the coverage also provided the contrast for a thick field of sunshine to illuminate a valley two ridges over. Looking south, much of the thickly forested land of the closest valley and ridge was still within the new wilderness and would likely remain unchanged well into the future.

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A view from the Plains’ famous ridge. Overcast, but with a ray of sun.

After enjoying the view for a while, I headed north and down, down, down into forest similar to that of the lower Sods and much of the rest of the state. The brush here became sharp, and I rolled down my trekking pant legs to save my skin. There was more rushing water, but by now my thoughts drifted away, split between reflections on the trip and anticipation of returning home.

As the trail flattened out, it became apparent that I was now leaving the wilderness to walk a thin right-of-way slicing through private land. The barbed wire that flanked the trail’s right side reminded me of what happens to private land and how lucky I was to have spent so long hedged by nothing but the terrain. The final trailhead I came to was marked with only a small sign, and I walked awkwardly onto the public road – my head still in the woods. The sun was shining, and I made the two-mile jaunt back to my car.

Reflections

At first glance, there may be little difference between “designated wilderness” and other wild backcountry. Neither the Sods nor the Plains gained a single new tree or mountain spring the moment Congress finally recognized and designated them as wilderness. There are surely other, more remote places in this country where man has had less impact than on those areas I visited. The real difference that I noticed on this hike was a psychic one. On too many trails I’ve felt a faint melancholy when I consider the future of the land I walk over. I frequently come across signs for available acreage, or worse… soon to be available condos. When walking in these new wilderness areas, as troubled as their past has been, I get a feeling of cautious optimism. In all likelihood, these areas will actually get better with time. I imagine my great-great grandchildren being able to return to the north Sods, and walk all day shaded by red spruce too large for them to wrap their arms around.

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Private land adjacent to the end of the trail – a bit prickly, but still a lovely view.

More Information

Wilderness

West Virginia

Further Photography

About the Author

Devin grew up and went to college in Morgantown, West Virginia. He now lives in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania with his wife Leslie, where he attends the University of Pittsburgh School of Law and Katz School of Business. The trip that brought him back to the outdoors after a brief hiatus was a 128-mile row down the length of the Monongahela River, racing coal barges and dodging lock spillways.

GoPro Wide Helmet Cam Review

Practical application review on using the helmet cam in the backcountry… essentially, how does it do?

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The actual camera sans housing is tiny – 2.25 x 1.5 x 1.5 inches and 2.4 ounces – making it (or the non-wide angle standard GoPro model) suitable for YouTube-quality video for the backpacker.

Scope

This review is quite limited in scope. I had one singular objective in testing this product: to evaluate its utility as a helmet camera while packrafting on a longer expedition, where kit weight, battery life, and ease of use in bad weather matter the most. My intended output for the footage from this camera included projection on a large auditorium screen as supporting material during public speaking engagements, and, well, YouTube!

Thus, the review focuses more on practical use of the camera in a backcountry context rather than the technical merits surrounding its image quality or specifications.

Wide vs. Normal

A wide angle helmet-mountable lens was important to me because I like to maximize the field of view while packrafting. It allows me to capture some of the scenery, it forgives imprecise aim, and it it imparts a crazy curvilinear shape to my packraft paddle (the fisheye effect) that has more than once caused somebody to email me and ask me where I got that cool paddle.

My GoPro Packrafting Kit

My GoPro camera kit for backcountry packrafting focuses on the minimally simple, and includes the following:

  • Petzl Meteor Climbing Helmet. The helmet is a vented, “bike-style” foam helmet, with perfect spacing between front vents and a stable platform for securing the GoPro camera (weight: 9 oz)
  • GoPro Wide Helmet Cam (weight: 2.4 oz with 2xLiAAA batteries)
  • Waterproof Housing (weight: 4.0 oz, includes helmet attachment strap and hinge mount)
  • Extra Lithium AAA Batteries
  • Extra 2G SD Cards

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Perhaps somewhat ironically, the housing weighs almost twice as much as the camera. However, it’s the essential feature that makes the GoPro suitable for packrafting. Note the convex lens shape on both the camera lens and the housing lens – this give the GoPro its massive field of view relative to other helmet cams on the market.

Workflow

I’d like to walk you through the workflow required between the time the camera is retrieved from my pack (in the field) and the time a video is uploaded to YouTube (at home).

In the Field

  1. I store the camera, batteries, and SD cards in a 12 x 12 inch Aloksak, which is oversized for the kit, so that the bag can be rolled up a little to protect the contents further while in the pack.
  2. Each morning at camp (and time permitting, the night before), I make sure there is an empty SD card loaded into the camera, and if needed, a fresh set of LiAAA batteries. The kit gets stored in my pack, near the top.
  3. When it’s time to hit the water, I attach the camera to my packrafting helmet.
  4. When I foresee a section of water that I’d like to film, I usually remove the helmet from my head, so I can verify visually that the camera is turned on. While the helmet is off, I press the record button, then return the camera/helmet to my head. I added this step to my workflow (removing the helmet so I could see the camera) because the tactile response of the record button is poor, and I ended up missing some shots when just reaching up to turn it on.
  5. When done shooting the clip, I reach up and hit the record button again to stop recording. I usually don’t remove it from my head to stop recording, because the consequences of stopping a recording are less severe than missing a shot. Again, because of the lack of tactile response when pressing the record button, I end up shooting a lot of footage by accident.
  6. If I’m camping on the river at night, I’ll leave the camera attached to the helmet and ready to go in the morning. If I’m coming off the river and ready to start a hiking section, I repack the camera into the Aloksak and return to Step 2.

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The complete setup, with the camera secured in its waterproof housing and attached to a helmet strap. Weight is 6.4 ounces with batteries.

Field Notes:

There is no preview LCD, so unlike most of my digital photography and videography, I do not do any shot previews in the field. Thus I have no idea whether I am being successful or not until I load the clips to my computer after the trip.

The housing lens loses its hydrophobicity quickly, minimizing its ability to bead water droplets and allow them to roll off. Thus, when it’s raining or I’m running water that is particularly splashy, I make a habit of regularly reaching up to the lens and swiping it with my finger. I also found that wiping the lens with an anti-fogging wipe once a day helped immensely.

At the Computer

  1. First, I back up all of the original files on the SD cards to my RAID disk. This constitutes my archival copy.
  2. Import video directly from the SD card into iMovie.
  3. Create a movie within iMovie and publish directly to YouTube from within iMovie.

See, pretty easy.

Video

Play the video below to see some footage from the GoPro camera as part of a story about a packrafting trek in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex from July 2009. I mounted it on my helmet and either wore the helmet, or attached the helmet to my pack, which was lashed to the bow of my boat. The latter configuration was noticeably more wobbly in the rollers, but provides a fun perspective of the packrafter.

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Mounted to my helmet (the 9-ounce Petzl Meteor), I definitely felt the added weight of the 6.4-ounce camera when I first put the helmet on. However, it wasn’t uncomfortable, nor did it impair my ability to use my head normally [sic]. In reality, I seldom noticed it was there, unless I was making a conscious effort to shake my head.

Summary

All in all, I love the concept of a waterproof helmet cam for packrafting. As you can see in the video sample, I also wore it fly fishing! I’ll undoubtedly try that more often, too. The GoPro meets my needs of being able to produce a decent quality YouTube video that doesn’t look like it was shot with a cell phone. Its main shortcoming is the lack of tactile feel in the housing button that engages the record button on the camera. A simple click button would suffice, so I had a little bit of feedback, allowing me to avoid taking my helmet off my head to know with certainty that I was starting or stopping a recording.

Ultralight Economies of Scale: Budgeting for Your Pack & Wallet

How can lightweight backpacking translate and relate to financial management? Doesn’t all that lightweight loot cost money?

Introduction

In learning to lighten my pack, I’ve also learned to better manage my finances. That might sound like a strange statement to make – generally speaking, lowering your base pack weight is associated with buying lighter gear. What I’ve learned, though, is to do more with less, and to buy only those things that will make a real difference to my base weight or in terms of practical use. I’ve learned to do more research before making purchases. I’ve learned that sometimes the best approach is to make something yourself – and yet, sometimes it makes more sense to pay someone else for their products. Sometimes it makes the most sense to make a sizable investment, and sometimes making that investment means saving up some money and not having the immediate gratification we seem to enjoy so much.

Pack Lighter, Pack Less

The most dramatic changes in lowering my base pack weight came from taking less stuff. It seems obvious enough… fewer things means less weight, just as fewer expenditures means less debt or less financial (instead of physical) strain. But getting to the point where I could leave things out of my pack meant wrapping my head around the concept of needs versus want. I found myself doing a cost-benefit analysis of the things that traditionally appear on my gear list: "I really like that jacket, but is it worth the extra twelve ounces it adds to my system? I mean, it’s nice to have, but the down vest is plenty warm." I was surprised not only by how little I needed, but by how little I missed once I got rid of it. And frankly, I was surprised by how unencumbered I felt by having fewer, more functional things on my back.

We all have different ideas about how to approach ultralight gear lists: how to budget the ounces and pounds we carry. We each prioritize categories differently. There are some things we’re just not willing or able to do without. If you’re unwilling to compromise or sacrifice in one area, though, you’ll likely have to make adjustments somewhere else to get to your target base weight. Ultralight backpacking, I’d argue, is ultimately about balance – balancing your budget of pounds and ounces.

If you wanted to design a house, at some point you’d have to adjust a sliding scale to reflect your needs and desires. Given a fixed budget, you can have a tiny house with incredible build quality and craftsmanship, or you can have a bigger house with lower-quality finishing. Designing the house means determining what you’re passionate about and what will suit your needs. Designing a low base pack weight requires the same sort of approach.

For example, I’m a side sleeper with a history of back and shoulder problems. There is no way you’ll find me on a thin closed-cell foam pad. I carry a thick self-inflator or a plush insulated air mattress instead. My sleeping pad weighs about two pounds versus the three-ounce micro-pads that some die-hards carry. Because I carry a heavier sleeping pad, I try to compensate for the "extra" weight by cutting weight somewhere else. I’ve been using a nineteen-ounce sleeping bag, for example, and just designed and made a fourteen-ounce sleeping bag. By comparison, many people carry sleeping bags that weigh twenty-eight or so ounces.

Making "Light" Affordable

Perhaps most importantly, ultralight backpacking has led me to take painstaking measurements and considerations for everything in my pack weight budget. I had to relearn, as well as reframe, my concept of "light," much as the process has taught me to re-evaluate my fiscal concept of "affordable." With the economy right now, the timing of my ultralight rebirth couldn’t have been better.

Perhaps the best illustration of my new found philosophy is my examination of the fire-starting items I’ve always packed. Lighters are tiny; they have essentially no mass. Matches are wispy little dried twigs. Having the ability to start fire can be vitally important. So traditionally I’ve carried a lighter in my pocket, one in my stove kit, one in my survival kit, and another one stashed somewhere in the bowels of my pack. I would also have two or three lightweight plastic bottles stuffed with matches and a striker pad. Once I got serious about lowering my base weight I bought a digital scale and started weighing every single item that could end up in my pack. Each lighter, I found, weighed about 0.75 ounces – next to nothing! Each filled match safe weighed only about an ounce. Again, the weight seems inconsequential. But then, I tallied up the total weight of my firestarters: four lighters at 0.75 ounce equalled 3 ounces. Three match safes at an ounce each weighed 3 ounces. I had 6 ounces of firestarting stuff in my pack – over a third of a pound! I grimaced at the thought of the flint and steel still stashed in my possibles bag.

Discovering that I had about half a pound (once I added the flint and steel) of firestarting stuff in my pack was… profound. It was a moment of clarity that has stayed with me. It led to a paradigm shift in my worldview: even teeny tiny things add up to be very significant.

Happiness is…

Since then, I’ve become a bit obsessed about weight. I know how much most of my gear (and much of the gear I’ve considered buying) weighs to the tenth, if not hundredth, of an ounce. Not because I want the absolute lowest possible pack weight, but because I want the lowest possible pack weight that keeps me happy. I now take just enough clothing to keep me warm, dry, and comfy without having a number of extra layering options. I no longer have enough spare clothing to make a decent pillow, so I’m playing with the most flexible options to add a few usable ounces to the pack. (I have a down pillow that weighs 4.5 ounces; when I realized that the 3.5 ounces of down in it was the same amount of down insulating my vest, I ditched the pillow as a possibility. I just made a Climashield vest that weighs 3 ounces total; it should be just enough for my new "pillow," too.

The rest of my life has come under closer inspection since I started thinking about my gear list in a more cognizant way. Money started to make more sense to me, became more tangible. The scale of my life came into better focus. In the grander scheme of things, five bucks for a sandwich at lunch isn’t much. And the buck and a quarter for my once or twice daily coffee refill isn’t significant – barely registers on the financial scale. And my afternoon snack of a buck or two is really pretty cheap. And if I spend another buck or two on a drink later in the day, well, it’s only a buck or two… right? My new-found ultralight perspective helped me realize that, hey, in my life, those inconsequential food purchases added up to ten or twelve dollars every day. Working four days a week, I was realistically spending about fifty dollars each week, two hundred dollars a month, two thousand four hundred dollars a year on "cheap" filler food.

If I were making $100,000 a year, maybe two hundred dollars a month wouldn’t be all that much. What I’ve come to realize, though, is that I don’t earn that kind of money. I have been living on the wrong scale. I hadn’t been living in reality. I hadn’t been paying attention to how quickly all those little things add up and was nickel and diming my budget to pieces. I’ve learned to live with a scale more appropriate to my budget – and last month, I had an extra hundred and twenty dollars in the bank and two pounds less in my pack.

Backcountry Fly Fishing with Tenkara: Ultralight Style and Simplicity

The literal translation of the Japanese word ‘Tenkara’ is ‘from Heaven.’ Fitting for a lightweight fly rod characterized by elegance, grace, and simplicity.

Introduction

The literal translation of the Japanese word ‘Tenkara’ is ‘from Heaven.’ If Heaven’s character is defined by elegance, grace, and simplicity, then Tenkara fly rods may indeed be Heaven’s answer for backcountry fly fishing enthusiasts passionate about ultralight gear and style.

Ryan’s Tenkara Gear

  • Tenkara Ayu (3.5 oz) or Tenkara Iwana Rod (2.3 oz)
  • Simblissity Unslack Pack, modified for lanyard use (0.7 oz)
  • 10.5′ Braided Tenkara Leader on Tippet Spool
  • 30M 5X Frog Hair Tippet on Spool (I sometimes add a spool of 6X and/or 7X as well)
  • Hydrophobe Floatant in Small Squeeze Tube
  • Yarn Strike Indicator
  • MicroDrop Bottle with Qty 16 Split Shot
  • Morell Small Foam Fly Box (includes weight of four dozen flies)
  • MicroZip Bag with Fishing License

Total Weight of Kit: 5 to 6 ounces

The Movie

A short introduction to what Tenkara is all about, including some fish-catching footage and expository comments from the South Fork of the Flathead River in the Bob Marshall Wilderness.

Resources

Learn about Tenkara at Wikipedia.

Read Tenkara feedback at Twitter.

Read the author’s blog posts about Tenkara: Post 1, Post 2.

Race Report: 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic

“We all know better than to do this race.”

The sound of recirculating holes and giant wave trains greeted us when we rounded the next bend. Failing to see a good line in the midnight light through this next series of rapids – or, really, failing to even see the rapids at all – we opted to take out then and there. Chris and Bobby, my two soaking-wet teammates, were shivering as they climbed ashore – their penalty for floating twenty-five miles down the flooded, fast-moving glacier-fed Yanert River in glorified three-pound pool toys known as the Alpacka Scout. (I was in much better shape thanks to my whitewater-worthy, decked five-pound Alpacka Yukon Yak.) We hurriedly packed up our boats and followed a mile-long riverside horse trail to the mouth of Ravine Creek, where we were hoping to find an ATV track that would take us seven miles to a gravel pit on the Parks Highway, the anticlimactic – yet somehow fitting – finish of the 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic.

Race Report 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic - 1
The 2009 course traversed the northernmost portion of the Delta Range and then the length of the Hayes Range, with a total distance of about 180 miles (both ranges are sub-ranges of the Alaska Range). After skirting around or over Granite Mountain, the conventional route passes through foothills north of the Hayes Range’s crest, which is a series of 10,000- to 13,000-foot glacier-covered peaks. Three enormous glaciers – the Trident (pictured), Hayes, and Gillam – spill out into valleys along the route and must be crossed.

At the creek mouth, in the fading beam of Chris’ headlamp, I saw, freshly etched into a sand bar, a word that would invigorate most people who have been tramping through Alaskan bush for three-and-a-half days: “Cabin,” with an arrow pointing upstream. Immediately every four-letter word that my sleep-deprived mind could recall was emanating from my mouth. Chris and Bobby joined my outburst when they saw it too.

“How did they do it?” I demanded to know, feeling like a villain whose plans to take over the world had just been foiled by a super hero – in this case, my plans to win the Classic as a non-Alaskan rookie, a feat that has occurred only three times in the race’s twenty-eight-year history. “We haven’t seen any footprints the entire race! We took the most efficient route! They could not have passed us when we were sleeping – we’ve slept just two-and-a-half hours over the last eight-five! Ahhhhh!”

Chris and Bobby were equally mystified, yet we were convinced that somehow we had been outsmarted and outraced, probably by the famed Roman Dial and his partner Forrest McCarthy. We concluded the sandbar etching was playful ribbing by the race’s leaders and interpreted it to mean one thing: “Ha, ha! We were here before you and we’re going to win. You might as well pull into the cabin and get some rest – second place is the first loser.” Completely dejected, we picked up the ATV track and began a heavy-eyed trudge towards the finish.

About the Classic

The Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic could be considered “the original adventure race.” It was first held in 1982, seven years before the first Raid Gauloises, thirteen years before the first Eco-Challenge, and twenty years before the first Primal Quest. I’ll add that the Classic could also be considered the only “real” adventure race – today’s most well-known races are really just a prescribed sequence of outdoor sports – and burdensome rules, substantial mandatory gear lists, aid stations and support crews, and numerous checkpoints neutralize much of the “adventure” from these television-oriented events.

The Classic has always been an organic, non-commercialized insider’s race. The race is not coordinated by a formal organization; the race organizer is a volunteer position; there is no dedicated race website or online forum; entry forms are distributed via email to a select group; publicity about the race rarely goes beyond the Anchorage Daily News and a few low-traffic blogs; some portion of the $150 entry fee is always returned to the racers after expenses are paid; there’s no prize money, sponsors, race standings, or official records; and racers are explicitly told before the race, If you get yourself in trouble, you need to get yourself out of trouble. We’re not responsible for you; you are. If you’re not okay with that, don’t come.

This setup is completely intentional: as the 2009 race organizer told me in an email, “[The Classic] is absolutely unique, and we want to keep it that way. Small, limited to folks who can survive the thing, and who have a certain frame of mind about wilderness racing. Publicity beyond what we already have would almost certainly doom the race.” (It’s with some reservation that I submit this article, then, to Backpacking Light; though I have no doubt that the Classic will successfully stay true to its roots even if there is an unlikely surge of interest in 2010.)

One of the most redeeming features of the Classic is the near absence of rules. The information I was given before competing in the 2009 race went something like this: “The 2009 race starts on Sunday, July 26 at 10:00 a.m. at the Gerstle River bridge over the Alaska Highway. Racers must reach the gravel pit located three miles south of McKinley Village on the Parks Highway by Saturday, August 1 at 5:00 p.m. There is one mandatory check-in point at Mile 238 on the Richardson Highway. All racers must be self-propelled and self-contained (i.e. no motorized vehicles or pull/pack animals; and no caches or aid stations), and they must have a satellite phone and either an Alpacka or Sherpa raft (no Sevylors). Mapped roadways are off-limits. See you there, and good luck!”

As a result of so few rules, racers become very creative with their route choices and forms of travel, and complete surprises in race positions are common. At the start of this year’s race, racers scattered in three distinct directions. In past years, racers have toed the line with mountain bikes, skis, and even a paraglider. In the 2008 race the two winning teams took two entirely different routes and ran into each other four days later, just eight miles from the finish. Furthermore, having minimal rules adheres truer to the race’s wilderness ethos – for in true wilderness, there are no artificial, manmade rules.

Race Report 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic - 2
At the starting line the field could have been broken into two groups: fast backpackers and suffering-tolerant racers. This latter group (which included Roman Dial and Bobby Schnell, left and right, respectively) carried the ‘essentials’ – a packraft and satellite phone (the only two mandatory items), a few days of calorically dense food, a rainsuit, and maybe an insulated parka and/or space blanket. These participants came to win, or at least to perform well, and they didn’t believe that things like shelters, hot meals, bear spray, or polarized sunglasses were worth their weight.

Between its loose organization, twenty-eight-year history, big-personality participants, and wilderness locations, more than one night around a campfire would be needed to recall all Classic lore. One of the more well-known stories involves Dick Griffith, finisher of seventeen Classics, with the last being in 2004 at the age of eight-one! In the Classic’s inaugural 1982 Hope-to-Homer race, Dick outsmarted the other racers by carrying a packraft, which he used to float across the glacier-fed Skilak River and then down the glacier-fed Fox River, while all the other racers nearly drowned in the Skilak and then bushwhacked through alder down the Fox.

As he unpacked his raft on the Skilak’s braids he donned a fuzzy red Viking hat with blue horns, looked at his competition (which included the then twenty-one-year-old Roman Dial), and said, “You may be fast, but you young guys eat too much and don’t know nothin’. Old age and treachery conquer youth and skill any day!” A story from the 2009 Classic that will probably enter the history books comes courtesy of Craig “Chunk” Barnard and teammate Jordan of eastern Oregon, who attempted a dangerous but straight-forward route on the Black Rapids and Susitna Glaciers. After crossing miles of jumbled moraine and then more miles of earthquake-caused debris slides, they put in to the East Fork of the Susitna River.

Chunk poorly scouted a Class IV rapid while clutching riverside willows, flipped his boat and began Maytagging. Jordan, on his second packrafting trip ever, dropped into the same hole and pushed Chunk out, but got himself stuck. He lost his boat, paddle, and a shoe; he thankfully was wearing a PFD and eventually got tossed out. The PFD served a second purpose when he reached terra firma: with some duct tape, Jordan fashioned a shoe and started hiking out, only to find his boat and paddle a few miles downriver. They floated to the Denali Highway and called it quits.

Even if it’s not lore-worthy, it seems that every Classic racer goes home with a story to tell. What’s remarkable is that “character development” is the only potential “prize” for this suffering, and that there is never a shortage of individuals who want to compete, some year after year. Appropriate taglines for the Classic (courtesy of my teammate Chris) could be, “The race that everybody loses,” and “We all know better than to do this race.”

About the 2009 Classic: Gerstle River to McKinley Village

The 2009 course was an extended version of the 1994-1996 course, from Donnelly to McKinley Village. The new starting point was the Gerstle River bridge over the Denali Highway; Donnelly was made the one mandatory checkpoint. The course’s straight-line distance is about 117 miles; the actual distance of the conventional route is 170-180 miles, with a maximum of 35 miles (20%) being packraft-able. See the Skurka team route (red) and Dial team route (green).

The course traverses the northernmost portion of the Delta Range and then the length of the Hayes Range. After skirting around or over Granite Mountain, the conventional route passes through foothills north of the Hayes Range’s crest, which is a series of 10,000- to 13,000-foot glacier-covered peaks, including the namesake 13,832-foot Mount Hayes. Three enormous glaciers – the Trident, Hayes, and Gillam – spill out into valleys along the route and must be crossed. Most of the conventional route is above 3,000 feet, which is the upper limit for trees, so racers find themselves trekking mostly through brush, tussocks, “sponga” (soft, energy-sapping tundra with ankle-biting vegetation like dwarf willows), or joyous hard tundra. Racers who had competed in the 1994-1996 race recall the route being less brushy than it is now – whether this is a global warming-caused reality or a function of old age and fading memories is unclear.

Challenges specific to this year’s race were mostly related to unseasonably high temperatures. Glaciers were melting rapidly and glacier-fed waterways were dangerously swollen. Hayes “Creek,” for example, was a frothing Class VI torrent of filthy gray water and had to be crossed by climbing atop the glacier above where the creek emerges below it. And the Yanert River, usually a pleasant Class I float, developed Class III holes. The high temperatures may also have placed additional stress on racers’ feet in the form of increased sweating and friction. Destroyed feet seem to be an inherent part of the Classic, so it’s difficult to say whether this year’s field suffered any more than those in the past.

Race Report 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic - 3
The terrain from Mile 40 through 90 alternated between ‘sponga’ (soft, energy-sapping tundra with ankle-biting vegetation like dwarf willows), swollen waterways, and treacherous moraines (pictured). The moraines, in particular, were tough: our progress across the jumbled, pattern-less fields of ice, loose rock, and sand was painfully slow and dangerous.

The 2009 Race: My Story

Some Background

The 2009 Classic was designed to be the final bookend of my first trip to Alaska. I first heard about the race in 2003 while developing content for GoLite’s website – Roman Dial was a GoLite-sponsored athlete at the time and included his Classic accomplishments in his bio. I looked online for details about the race, found nothing, and wondered what the big deal was. Over time I heard more about the Classic and about Roman, and concluded that no one made a big deal of either because too few people truly understood them. Really, how many people can relate to racing across remote Alaskan wilderness on no sleep, with no potential for fame or fortune, and with no outside assistance or safety systems?

And who can comprehend the many accomplishments of Classic racers: the late Chuck Comstock pioneered hard ice climbing routes in Valdez and the Wrangell’s, and also traversed the Brooks Range and Chugach Range in cross-country racing skis in the 1980s; Barney Griffith made many first descents of classic kayak runs in the 1970s, including Devil’s Canyon of the Susitna River (when he was eighteen) and the Talkeetna Canyon (when he was seventeen); Rocky Reifenstuhl is an eighteen-time finisher of the Iditabike and eight-time winner; and Roman became the first person to mountain bike the length of the Alaska Range in 1996 and successfully hiked 600 unsupported miles across northwest Alaska in 2006, in addition to outstanding performances in the early Eco-Challenge races.

The primary focus of my first trip to Alaska was a 700-mile 4-week trip through the south-central part of the state. I started in the small hamlet of Hope, located across Turnagain Arm from Anchorage, and followed the original Classic route to Homer, from where I took an Erin- and Hig-inspired route through the Kenai Fjords to Seward. From Seward, I made my way north into the western Chugach Range and then, after more vertical gain and loss than I care to remember, I crossed the Matanuska Valley and entered the Talkeetna Mountains. This final section was the climax: 200+ miles in eight days, mostly on hard-packed tundra; daily caribou sightings and several glorious packrafting sections; and four days without seeing a human footprint, five days without seeing a manmade track, and six days without seeing anybody. The Talkeetnas were so good that I resupplied and returned there for four more days and another 100+ miles.

As I expected, I showed up to the Classic in great shape: my body was leaned out, my feet and legs were strong, my skills had been sharpened, and my comfort level in Alaskan wilderness was much higher. Even so I was still unsure about how competitive I would be – are Alaskan-bred racers just on a different level than Outsiders like me? Do racers really run off the line and go days without sleep? I didn’t think I could maintain that pace, and I’ve never stayed awake for more than forty-eight hours. How was I going to outrace and/or outsmart Classic veterans and multi-time winners?

Gerstle to Donnelly

At the starting line the field could have been broken into two groups: fast backpackers and suffering-tolerant racers. The former carried ultralight backpacking loads: frameless packs, tarps, stoves, foam sleeping pads, decked packrafts and PFDs, etc. They were planning to hike fast, get some sleep, and stay safe. The latter group carried, well, the bare essentials: a packraft and satellite phone (the only two mandatory items), a few days of calorically dense food, a rainsuit, and maybe an insulated parka and/or space blanket. These participants came to win, or at least to perform well, and they didn’t believe that things like shelters, hot meals, bear spray, or polarized sunglasses were worth their weight.

I fell somewhere in between these two groups. I was willing to forgo my shelter and sleep system, figuring I could always pitch my packraft like a tarp and wrap myself in a space blanket; and I left behind my PFD, knowing that the rivers were usually just Class I-II, which is within my comfort zone. But I was reluctant to leave behind my bear spray, since I was planning to race solo, or my 5-ounce alcohol cook system – a full, steaming pot of potato spuds on a rainy night… priceless. My base weight came to 15.3 pounds – the packraft setup was 7.9 pounds and the remainder of my gear (including the 12-ounce satellite phone) was 7.4 pounds. See my full gear list. And I was carrying about 4.5 days’ worth of food, which weighed another 11 pounds – more than I would normally have taken, but my metabolism was very hot due to the 800 miles I had just finished.

Race Report 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic - 4
Unseasonably high temperatures during the 2009 race resulted in rapid glacial melt and swollen waterways, including the East Fork of the Little Delta River (pictured). In an effort to save weight, teammates Bobby and Chris took the three-pound Alpacka Scouts, which were inappropriate for the whitewater we encountered. I fared much better in my Alpacka Yukon Yak.

Just before the start I approached Bobby Schnell and Chris Robertson, two Anchorage-based pararescuemen (“PJ’s”) who had six wins between them since 2003 and who were probably the race favorites. I met Bobby and Chris at a pre-race cookout two days earlier and had exchanged a lot of route beta; we seemed to have similar temperaments and to be approaching the race with a similar mindset. So they were very welcoming when I asked if they would mind if I accompanied them for at least the first forty miles, to the checkpoint at Donnelly, from where I thought I would pull back and settle into my own race. I never really thought that I would race the entire way with them.

A starting gun would be too fancy for the Classic so the race director simply says, “Go!” Bobby, Chris, and I took off running northwest down an ATV track, with the intention of going around the north side of Granite Mountain by stitching together various tracks with short cross-country segments. Other racers went in complete opposite directions — some headed towards St. Anthony Pass while others took the proudest line, up and over Granite Mountain. The fact that we were running down the track concerned me – doing nine-minute miles with a twenty-five-pound pack seemed unsustainable.

A south wind became fierce as we approached the Delta River – a weather front was trying to push north across the Alaska Range but was hung up by the range’s high peaks, and so the whole system was trying to squeeze through this corridor, just one of three that cuts through the range. We checked in at Donnelly at 10:30 p.m. in first place and headed out onto the gravel flats.

Donnelly to Gillam Glacier

Given the river’s swift current and the strong headwind, which was now approaching a steady 50 MPH, we decided to put in a half-mile upstream of our planned take-out point, just above the mouth of McGinnis Creek; it looked as if we would have to cross three or four braids. We tucked behind some alder to inflate our boats, which we lashed to our paddles knowing that our boats could take flight once beyond our windbreak.

Bobby put in to the first braid and was quickly carried downstream of the intended take-out – his Alpacka Scout looked squirrely in the current and he couldn’t ferry well with his Ultralight paddle. I put in next and ferried smoothly across in my Yak. Chris squeezed his 6’1″ 190-lb frame into his boat and immediately flipped, twice, before adjusting his center of gravity and paddling across to meet me. We crossed the remaining three braids without incident and grouped back up on the other side behind another alder thicket, somewhat shaken but also pleased with our success under such challenging conditions.

The sun struck McGinnis Peak, Mount Moffit, and Mount Shand a few minutes after we emerged from the woodlands into tundra. The peaks were now protecting us from the wind but we could see dust being blown down the Delta River flats below. “For their sake I hope no other racers have to deal with what we did last night,” remarked Chris, feeling a little fresher after our first break, a fifteen-minute snooze. I thought the comment was indicative of the friendly competition among the small Classic community.

We went across-the-grain of sponga-covered benches towards the Trident Glacier and its 1.5-mile-wide moraine. After dropping down steep, loose slopes of dry glacial silt and embedded rocks, we started across the moraine directly in our general line of travel but realized quickly that our progress across this jumbled, pattern-less field of ice, rock, and sand was painfully slow and treacherous. So we cut straight across instead and then paralleled the glacier downstream once we reached the other side.

More sponga awaited us on our way to the Hayes Glacier and its outlet “creek” (see the story above), and again on our way to the East Fork of the Little Delta River, which is fed by the Gillam Glacier and which had plowed an entirely new channel through its valley that forced us to slog several more miles in a swamp forest than we had hoped to. By the end of the day it was clear that the course’s alternating variety of sponga, swollen waterways, and treacherous moraines over the last thirty miles was wearing on us – we all felt as if we’d put in a fifty-mile effort. We were definitely no longer running.

Gillam Glacier to the Yanert River

The course conditions improved west of the East Fork: our route was consistently above 4,000 feet, just beyond the upper limits of the sponga; the river crossings were more manageable; the creek bottoms were gravel-filled and the river bottoms were wide and braided; excellent game trails paralleled the waterways through willows and birchbrush. We made good time over 6,200-foot Buchanan Pass to the West Fork of the Little Delta River, and we were looking forward to getting off our feet after crossing a 5,700-foot pass in the dark at 2:00 a.m. and reaching the Wood River at 5:00 a.m. The Wood is normally too low-volume to float but we assumed correctly that it would have enough water this year.

Race Report 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic - 5
By night three, the effects of trekking 120 rugged miles in 2.75 days on two hours of sleep were showing. When I had to apply Krazy Glue to cracking trekking pole-caused calluses along the inside of my thumbs, I demonstrated my not-so-sharp mind by gluing the tube securely to the pad of my thumb. In order to remove it I had to cut off the top layer of skin with my knife.

Our arrival at the Wood marked the beginning of the homestretch – the remainder of the race consisted of just a ten-mile float, an easy seventeen-mile trek over a pass, a twenty-five-mile float, and seven miles on ATV tracks. We knew we were getting close and with some degree of confidence we began projecting a finish time. It must have been entertaining to watch us calculate: using the same assumptions about our rate of travel, we calculated three different finishing times before having a repeat number on the fourth try. With our brains overwhelmed by the simple mathematics we stopped calculating and decided that one must be correct.

Even though our spirits were lifted by the proximity of the finish line, the effects of trekking 120 rugged miles in 2.75 days were definitely showing. A few hours earlier I applied Krazy Glue to the cracking trekking pole-caused calluses along the inside of my thumbs, and in the process I glued the tube securely to the pad of my thumb and had to cut off the top layer of skin with my knife in order to remove it. Bobby’s lower back was horribly chafed and almost bleeding due to pack-rub. Chris had bad tendonitis in his ankle and carried on only with the help of regular “Tylenol cocktails” that consisted of 800 mg of ibuprofen and 200 mg of Tylenol. Chris and Bobby had fashioned trekking poles from debarked alder they found on the gravel braids in order to aid their tiring legs. And we were all walking gingerly on our macerated feet, which we had treated with fresh air and dry warmth for about the same amount of time that we had slept — cumulatively, two hours.

We floated ten miles down the Wood in two hours to Big Grizzly Creek. Rafting had been faster than walking, but it was not straight-forward: we occasionally had to walk our boats around short, shallow sections where the river braided out; and Bobby and Chris got soaked by the river splashing above the ten-inch tubes of their boats. Everyone was drier and happier after thirty minutes around a big fire, though, and I also inhaled a bowl of creamy hot soup.

Old horse trails took us up Big Grizzly Creek and into Edgar Creek. Along the way we had our only bear encounter – a sow and two cubs ran a quarter-mile towards us across a meadow only to run even faster in the opposite direction when they saw we were humans, not delicious moose or goats. That encounter was typical of all my bear encounters in Alaska, where the animal seems to still have a healthy fear of man.

We reached the Yanert River at 5:00 p.m.; Chris and Bobby requested a thirty-minute time-out before getting in the rafts. I was buzzing from a caffeine pill and couldn’t rest, which came back to haunt me later in the evening: I managed to both “sleepraft” and sleepwalk, thankfully without consequence. While they were resting I broke out my large-scale maps and concluded that there was no obviously better route than we had taken, and I was happy to tell them when they woke up that I thought we were going to win.

Race Report 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic - 6
Starting around sixty hours into the race we all began walking gingerly on our macerated feet (pictured on left, post-race), which we treated with fresh air and dry warmth for about the same amount of time that we slept — cumulatively, 2.5 hours over 3.75 days. My teammate Chris developed bad tendonitis in his ankle and carried on only with the help of regular ‘Tylenol cocktails’ that consisted of 800 mg of ibuprofen and 200 mg of Tylenol. The picture was taken 1.5 days after we finished.

The Finish

After our discovery in the sand at Ravine Creek, we dejectedly plodded along the ATV track towards the gravel pit. It was the lowest point for all of us: our bodies were demanding rest and recovery, especially since there was barely enough light to see and there was nothing along the tracks to demand our attention. Yet we continued to push onwards and self-inflict further pain and misery, struggling to justify it for second place but ultimately unable to halt our own locomotion that had apparently become automatic after three days and eighteen hours of near-constant movement towards the finish line.

A brightening sky helped us pull it together for the last mile; our conversation was marginally sensible. We located the sign-in sheet, which was duct-taped to a post, and cautiously approached it, looking for signs that other racers had been there. None had been – the sign-in sheet was blank! We had won.

Two-and-a-half days later, after returning to Anchorage and enjoying an eighteen-hour slumber, Bobby, Chris, Roman, Forrest and I recounted our Classic experience over burgers and beers. And we also solved the Ravine Creek mystery: one of the racers who had dropped out at Donnelly hiked in from the Parks Highway to the cabin and thought she was doing us a favor by telling us where the cabin was. Little did she know how we would end up interpreting her note in the sandbar. Oh well, it made a good story and it certainly will not dissuade us from competing in the Classic again.