Articles (2020)

An Introduction to Simple Fly Fishing

“The lesson that we learn from fishing with a tenkara rod is that we shouldn’t fear that a simpler life will be an impoverished life. Rather, simplicity leads to a richer and more satisfying way of fishing – and more importantly, living.” – Yvon Choiunard

Editor’s Note

Tenkara fly fishing is to fly fishing as ultralight backpacking is to backpacking.

In the next 2,000 words, Yvon Chouinard will eloquently spell out the tremendous freedom that comes from disengaging from gear (and specifically, the number of pieces of gear) in order to achieve an experience unburdened by complexity.

As a fishing guide, I find tenkara to be totally exhilirating – I no longer have to spend time teaching clients how to cast, how to select tippet, how to build leaders, or the fine nuances of every individual fly. If you are interested in hiring a so-called “tenkara” guide, be wary of the guide who claims that he can teach you (much) about tenkara gear. They may just add complexity to your experience!

I can therefore focus on helping my clients see the natural world – how to spot fish under the water’s surface, how to notice that a hatch is “on”, how to chase a big fish down a small-stream cattle chute without breaking an ankle (!), how to treat your fly like moving food, instead of incessant line mending exercises, how to see the difference between an osprey and an eagle, or how to build a no-trace fire for a streamside lunch.

There are many lessons to be learned by ultralight backpackers from other disciplines, whether single-speed biking, the one-pot chef, or the tenkara angler. I’m honored to offer Mr. Chouinard’s insight here at BPL, and hope you find some useful philosophy from his article. I also hope you’ll find some inspiration to throw a tenkara rod in your backpack so you can enjoy high country angling on your next ultralight adventure!

– Ryan Jordan

Introduction

“DESPITE RUMORS TO THE CONTRARY, THE PARAMOUNT OBJECTIVE IS: TO CATCH FISH . . . .” – Sheridan Anderson, The Curtis Creek Manifesto

Since the fifteenth century, every nuance of fly fishing has been written about in the utmost detail, leaving us to endlessly reinvent what has already been discovered. A tiny change on a classic fly and the ‘inventor” gets to name it after himself and collect a dime for each one sold. Many of the books on technique are like business books where a minor theory is spread out over three hundred pages, when all it really merits is a magazine article.

Heaven knows we fly fishers are suckers for every new gizmo we think will give us a leg up on catching fish. We wear vests with twenty pockets and waders with even more storage. And as if that isn’t enough, we have lanyards, waist packs, and backpacks to carry even more impedimenta. Hundreds of fly lines are now available to us, yet I seriously doubt you will catch one more trout with a line fine-tuned to the conditions than with a classic double taper. The no-nonsense fly fisher Rob Brown, from Terrace, British Columbia, looking over a steelheader’s array of fly boxes filled with hundreds of garish flies, said it best when he asked, “When did the green-butt stop working for you?”

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Daniela Prestifillippo catches her first fish ever after a few minutes of tenkara lessons with Yvon Chouinard. Cottonwood Creek, Wyoming. Photo: Mauro Mazzo.

I would offer that this proliferation of gear is supported by busy people who lack for nothing in their lives except time. Our “time-saving” communication devices, like tablets and smartphones, make slaves of their owners. We are unwilling, or unable, to put in the 10,000 hours needed to become a master fisher, hunter, or mountain climber. Instead, we load up with all the latest stuff and hire guides to do everything for us – including tying on the fly and releasing the fish. The guides have become enablers rather than teachers. How many bonefish would average anglers catch if they had to work out the tides and wade and spot fish themselves instead of waiting for a guide to bark, “ten o’clock, forty-foot cast now! Wait . . . strip . . . strip”? The guides leave clients so unsure of themselves that they think there must be some secret, unattainable knowledge that only the guide possesses.

As author Sheridan Anderson says in The Curtis Creek Manifesto, the objective of fishing is to catch fish, but in the pursuit of the catch you will gain so much more. The higher purpose of practicing a sport such as fly fishing, hunting or mountain climbing is to affect a spiritual and physical gain. But if the process is compromised, there is no transformation.

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Golden Trout. Painted by James Prosek.

Fishing with a fly can be such an incredibly complex and passionate sport that no one can fully master all the different disciplines in one lifetime. Some anglers prefer to limit themselves to only fishing with dry flies, while others specialize in perfecting their casting, fly tying, or even learning the Latin names and life history of all the insects. These can be legitimate endeavors in themselves, and there are untold books written about these subjects. This book is not one of them.

“Simple Fly Fishing” is for the young person who wants to learn but feels intimidated by the complexity, elitism, and expense of the sport. He sees his father who owns multiple thousand-dollar rods and reels, fishes only with guides at five hundred plus dollars a day (plus mandatory tips), and flies all over the world to stay at luxury lodges. And the son thinks, “This is not for me.”

It is also for the woman and her daughter who are put off by the image of the testosterone-fueled “rip-some-lips,” good-old-boy, bass and trout fisherman who has turned the contemplative pastime” into a competitive combat sport.

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After a five-minute lesson, nine-year-old Lola proceeded to land seventeen rainbows in a day and a half. Fall River, Idaho. Photo: Jeremy Koreski.

“Simple Fly Fishing” is also for the experienced angler who has all the gadgets and gizmos and discovers he or she wants to replace all that stuff with skill, knowledge, and simplicity. It is for the person who believes that a design or a piece of art or a sporting endeavor is finalized and mastered “not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away,” as Antoine de Saint-Exupery advocated.

It’s for the person who thinks maybe it’s time to look at the raked Zen sand garden with its three stones and see if he or she can convey the same powerful, evocative image of space and balance with only two rocks or even one.

Most anglers soon discover simple fly fishing helps preserve our capacity for wonder. It can teach us to see, smell, and feel the miracles of stream life-with the beauty of nature and serenity all around-as we pursue wild fish.

Aside: The Day I Learned to Kayak

The Gros Ventre River below Slide Lake falls over one hundred feet per mile, and in the spring runoff has few eddies to pull out and rest in. If you bail out of your boat, you can only hope to find it miles downstream where the current slows as it enters the Snake River.

I had just learned to do an Eskimo roll using only my hands and got a wild hair to run the river solo and without a paddle. A kayak paddle is a powerful tool. You can use it to slow down, speed up, or brace to keep from tipping over. And at the last second, you can do a quick sweep or Duffek stroke to avoid a rock or a suck hole.

Without a paddle, I had to sit low in the boat with my hands in the water. Whenever I went over a steep drop, I had to resist the tendency to lean back. I turned by putting the boat on its side and pressing the nose down just like carving with skis. I had to look far ahead to plan my line. It was pointless to fight the current; I had to let the river tell me where to go. That was the day I really learned to kayak.

The Tenkara Rod

Many of us of a certain age remember our first fishing pole. We would go to the local sporting goods store and buy a long bamboo pole-what was then called a Calcutta. A line, with a worm or fly on the end, was attached to the tip. For centuries, perhaps even before the time of Christ, this is the way people all over the world learned to fish-and still do.

Twenty-five years ago, a Japanese friend gave me a telescoping fiberglass road with no reel seat. It was a beautiful, precious gift, light, sensitive, and elegant. When I received this rod, I didn’t really understand what I was getting, and I stored it on a shelf in my cabin for fifteen years. I have since learned that it is called a tenkara rod, which means “from the heavens” and is used in Japan to fish for yamame, amago, and iwana trout in small mountain streams.

Some years later, I fished the Sesia River in Italy with Mauro Mazzo. He mentioned that the traditional way to fish the Sesia is to use an eleven- to sixteen-foot-long rod with no reel and just a horsehair line tied to the tip. The lines, which are about one or one and a half times the length of the rod, are twisted from the tail of a white stallion, starting with fourteen or sixteen hairs and tapering down to three at the tippet end. A short, nylon tippet is added and one to five soft-hackle flies are tied onto the tippet one foot apart. Casting is done using various overhead, roll, and Spey casts. It’s particularly effective in winter with a size 22 purple-body soft hackle for wary and selective grayling. The hackles, made from the very soft feathers of a bird called ciuffolotto, maintain their lifelike action in the river. There are still about twenty practitioners of this technique in Italy, of which ten make their own lines.

The next summer, Mauro and I decided to try the tenkara rod on a willow-lined meadow creek in the Wyoming Range. It was a very windy day in August, and grasshoppers were being blown about, so we put on a muddler and fished it upstream as a hopper and downstream as a sculpin. The thin, heavy horsehair line cut through the wind far better than a floating fly line. Every bend of the creek had a pool, and we moved from pool to pool without having to reel in line and let it out again. We caught fish in every pool: nice cutthroats up to sixteen inches.

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At eighty-three years old, Arturo Pugno, the master, needs no polarized glasses to spot fish. Sesia River, Italy. Photo: Mauro Mazzo.

Mauro’s girlfriend, Daniela, who had never fished a day in her life, picked up the rod and in less than five minutes landed the biggest cutthroat of the day. “Easy,” she said. “What’s the big deal?”

I think this centuries-old technique was perfect for fly fishing that day and more effective than anything that has come out of our high-tech fly fishing industry. In fact, this is the same gear and technique traditionally used by French and Japanese market fishers. When your living depends on supplying restaurants and hotels with trout, you’re not going to waste money on seven-hundred-dollar rods, five-hundred-dollar reels, and three-dollar flies.

Learning to fish with a tenkara road and a short line is the easiest way to learn to fly-fish. It can be taught to an eight-year-old in minutes. Put her on a riffle with an old-fashioned soft-hackle fly, and she can out fish dad on the first day. Catching fish right from the start is the way to catch an angler for life. And dad can become a better fisher by applying the lessons learned from this ultimately simple method to fishing with his regular gear.

Other than learning to fish where the fish are, the most important thing an angler can do to catch fish is to control the action of the fly. It’s more important than the color or size of the fly, the time of day, or getting off a perfect cast. Why is a worm so effective? Because it is always moving. Why have soft baits replaced hard spoons and lures? Because they bend and flex in enticing ways.

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Too many fly fishers are so fixated on launching long casts that they end up putting the fly beyond where the fish are. And with those long casts, they cannot control what the fly is doing.

This is especially true of steel headers and their long Spey rods: Most steelhead are close to the bank, not in the middle of the river. I once watched the great steel header Harry Lemire fish behind a friend of mine. Lemire was walking the bank, making short casts with a floating line and making his signature fly, the Steelhead Caddis, wake, swim, twitch and flit around on the surface. He was hooking fish just behind my friend who was wading deep, casting long, and not catching anything. Control is everything.

“Simple Fly Fishing” uses the simplest of all fly fishing methods, a pole with a line on the end, to illustrate how to control the fly without the complexity of modern equipment getting in the way. Getting the fly to the depth where the fish are feeding and imparting motion to the fly is critical. This is where the tenkara excels. You will catch fish using simple methods and knowledge, in an elegant and artful way. This is fly fishing at its most basic, and like kayaking without a paddle, it brings you closer to the simple truths of the sport. When you pick up (or go back to) a rod and reel, you will be a more complete angler. I believe you will also enjoy your time on the water more and, to Mr. Anderson’s point, catch more fish.

Simple Fly Fishing: The Book

Excerpted from Simple Fly Fishing, which includes more chapters about trout and their food, fly fishing with wet flies, streamers, nymphs, and dry flies, as well as a summary of a variety of fishing situations of interest to the tenkara angler.

Simple Fly Fishing, by Yvon Chouinard, Craig Matthews, and Mauro Mazzo (Patagonia Books, 2014).

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Freestanding Double Wall Tents – A Cursory Review of 1P/2P Offerings from Mountain Hardwear, The North Face, and Nemo

Ultralight tents are becoming more lightweight and durable. This is good news for ultralighters.

Introduction

A few months ago I contacted Backpacking Light about doing a tent review. I wanted to see how tents have evolved since I stopped designing them in 2010. I was delighted that they said yes! I should tell you a bit about myself: I am a seasoned outdoor industry designer; I worked at Mountain Hardwear from 2000-2010, TRX Head designer, 2011-2012, Header Designer at Trinity Design Collaborative, 2012-2103. I have also been a pro level 24 Solo Mountain Bike racer and Ultra Marathoner for years. My ethos is to try and work hard, get past the marketing gimmicks and hype – get to the science of the product being an improvement or not. I have been fortunate to learn from some super smart people over the years. I have been afforded the opportunity to design fabrics, injection molded parts, tents, sleeping bags, suspension trainers and a lot more. Currently, I specialize in helping start ups refine their designs and bring their product to market.

The purpose of this article is to test and review tents in both the one-person and the two-person variety. For the past few weeks I have been testing the following tents:

  • Mountain Hardwear Mega UL 1
  • Mountain Hardwear Mega UL 2
  • The North Face Mica FL 1
  • The North Face Mica FL 2
  • Nemo Equipment Obi 2P

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Left to right: Nemo Equipment Obi 2, North Face Mica FL 2, North Face Mica FL 1, Mountain Hardwear Mega UL 2, and Mountain Hardwear Mega UL 1.

The tents were tested over several weeks in the mountains of southern California during several storms that varied from heavy gusting rains to heavy wet snow. The tents were also tested in the desert environment of Red Rocks Nevada. The following is my review of the tents after using each of them over the course of several nights.

Mountain Hardwear Mega UL 1

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Mountain Hardwear Mega UL 1 in snowy conditions.

A one-person superlight freestanding tent made with DAC NSL poles and some really light fabrics; 30 Denier floor and 10 Denier fly. Both of those fabric choices are really light and are pushing the limits of durability and functionality. 1 lb 13 oz, $350.

Poles

Positive: Super light DAC NSL poles with custom 7000 series aluminum with larger diameter joints with an injection molded hub the tent bodies can clip directly to. The poles are nice, strong and light and are an ease to setup and take down. Negative: Nothing negative here, the poles just seem great in everyway.

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Pole system.

Fly

Positive: The flysheet is made with a Denier Nylon rip-stop, fully taped seams. Nice details include: super cool nearly shear 10 Denier rip-stop fly, bias bound finished zipper flap. Negative: No window.

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DAC swivel hub system.

Body

Positive: 3O Denier nylon rip-stop floor with reinforced bathtub construction that felt and tested much more durable then what I expected. Negative: The ripstop floor goes against what Mountain Hardwear has said for years: Taffetta floors wear better than rip-stop floors because of the smoother surface and thus more consistent coating thickness and durability.

Small Parts

Positive: The mostly custom small parts it comes with are functional and light. Tent clips, molded grommet tabs are superlight but not too small and work well. The DAC hub clip also works well as well as the tent pole ball end interface clip. Negative: The fly clips to the molded grommet tab via a small molded rod. It was difficult to shove the rod through the grommet tab hole. It’s like they don’t really go together. The guy-lines and fly adjustment is done with 2 mm cord that is pushing the envelope are durability, at least to abrasion. Had one guy-line snap during the night from rubbing on a rock.

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Looks like the tent may need one more clip.

Overall Rating: 5

The Mountain Hardwear Mega UL 1 is a great tent, it’s big enough, functional, waterproof and has some sharply designed small parts. It is not luxurious in size but excels as a freestanding superlight-backpacking tent.

Mountain Hardwear Mega UL2

A two-person superlight freestanding tent made with DAC NSL poles and some really light fabrics; 30 Denier floor and 10 Denier fly. Both of those fabric choices are really light and are pushing the limits of durability and functionality. 2 lbs 2 oz. $450.

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Mountain Hardwear Mega UL 2.

Poles

Positive: Super light DAC NSL poles with custom 7000 series aluminum with larger diameter joints with an injection molded hub the tent bodies can clip directly to. The poles are nice, strong and light and are an ease to setup and take down. Negative: Nothing negative here, the poles just seem great in everyway.

Fly

Positive: The flysheet is made with a Denier Nylon rip-stop, fully taped seams. Nice details include: super cool nearly shear 10 Denier rip-stop fly, bias bound finished zipper flap. Negative: No window.

Body

Positive: 3O Denier nylon rip-stop floor with reinforced bathtub construction that felt and tested much more durable then what I expected. Construction was identical to the 1-person. Negative: The rip-stop floor goes against what Mountain Hardwear has said for years: Taffeta floors wear better than rip-stop floors because they are a smoother surface and thus have a more consistent coating thickness and durability. I have never seen abrasion test results that back that theory though.

Small Parts

Positive: The mostly custom small parts it comes with are functional and light. Tent clips, molded grommet tabs are superlight but not too small and work well. The DAC hub clip also works well as well as the tent pole ball end interface clip. Negative: The fly clips to the molded grommet tab via a small molded rod. It was difficult to shove the rod through the grommet tab hole. It’s like don’t really go together. The guy-lines and fly adjustment is done with 2 mm cord that is pushing the envelope for durability, at least to abrasion. Had one guy-line snap during the night from rubbing on a rock.

Overall Rating: 5

The Mountain Hardwear Mega UL 2 is a great tent, it is tight for 2 adults but not badly so. It is functional, waterproof and has some sharply designed small parts. It is not luxurious in size but excels as a freestanding superlight-backpacking tent.

The North Face Mica FL 1

A one-person superlight semi-freestanding tent made with DAC NSL 8.5 mm poles and coated nylon rip-stop. 2 lbs 12 oz, $319.

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North Face Mica FL 1.

Poles

Positive: Super light DAC 8.5 mm NSL poles with custom 7000 series aluminum with larger diameter joints with one aluminum hub and one DAC “Swivel” polycarbonate hub. Negative: The semi freestanding nature of the foot end of the tent makes set up, especially in high wind a little challenging.

Fly

Positive: The flysheet is a “lightweight coated rip-stop”. They don’t advertise it’s denier, but it think it is a 40 D nylon 6 rip-stop with a slight silicone finish, 1200 mm. Floor appears to be a 70 D nylon 6 taffeta 3000 mm.

Body

Positive: 70D bathtub floor. Negative: 70D floor is a bit heavy for a superlight tent.

Small Parts

Positive: The usual trusted DAC parts, polycarbonate “twist clips” and “ball caps” for the strut pole which has a polycarbonate “swivel” hub. Negative: There are stronger material options than polycarbonate available such as nylon or acetyl.

Overall Rating: 4

The North Face Mica FL 1 is a great tent at a good price. Not a drop leaked into the tent over several days of storming. It was however a little unstable in the high wind. Probably because of overall size and interior volume. The weight comes in at 2 lbs 5 oz, which is great considering the durability of the fabrics. That is what good design is!

The North Face Mica FL 2

A two-person superlight semi-freestanding tent made with DAC NSL 8.5 mm poles and coated nylon rip-stop. 3 lbs 2oz, $379.

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North Face Mica FL 2.

Poles

Positive: Super light DAC 8.5mm NSL poles with custom 7000 series aluminum with larger diameter joints with one aluminum hub and one DAC “Swivel” polycarbonate hub. Negative: The semi freestanding nature of the foot end of the tent makes set up, especially in high wind a bit challenging.

Fly

Positive: The flysheet is a “lightweight coated ripstop. They don’t advertise it’s denier, but it think it is a 40 D nylon 6 ripstop with a slight silicone finish, 1200 mm. Floor appears to be a 70 D nylon 6 taffeta 3000 mm.

Body

Positive: 70D bathtub floor. Negative: 70D floor is a bit heavy for a superlight tent.

Small Parts

Positive: The usual trusted DAC parts, polycarbonate “twist clips” and “ball caps” for the strut pole which has a polycarbonate “swivel” hub.

Overall Rating:

The North Face Mica FL2 is a great little tent but the semi freestanding nature of it makes it a bit unstable in high winds, especially during setup. It is however roomy for this category.

Nemo Equipment Obi 1

A one-person freestanding tent with light weight fabrics and DAC NSL poles. 2 door, 2 vestibules. 1 lbs 15 oz, $319.95.

Poles

Positive: The 8.5 mm DAC NSL poles come with an aluminum hub but with no strut pole.

Fly

Positive: The 20 D nylon rip-stop fly feels substantial, Nemo doesn’t list the mm rating but it feels like 2000 mm.

Body

Positive: 30D nylon rip-stop bathtub floor. Nemo doesn’t list the mm rating for the floor but I suspect it is 3000 mm. Negative: Heavier coating on light weight floor can reduce the tear strength… The overall tent size is great, just a bit of wasted interior space due to the lack of a strut pole.

Small Parts

Positive: Brand name small parts from DAC. Negative: As with most manufacturers, they get their small parts; clips, fly attachment pieces and such from DAC, their pole supplier. I am general impressed with Jake’s work, but I found Jake’s Foot fly attachment system to be clumsy, you can’t clip in from multiple angles. I just think the concept of molded corner pieces of the tent is good; I just don’t the execution and ergonomics of the Jake’s foot. Also I don’t understand why the DAC “twist clips” are semi twisted looking and have a little fin on the interior.

Overall Rating: 3

Nemo Obi 1P is a good little tent, light weight, functional, nothing terrible but nothing either that really shines in a market place crowded with other choices. I did somewhat like the fact that the tent and fly are packaged separate from than the pole sack in a way that allows you to easily split the weight. $319.95, 2 lbs 8 oz are competitive specs for a 1 person freestanding tent. It was rock solid and dry through several storms. The biggest drawback was the short 84 inch length.

Nemo Equipment Obi 2

A two person simple free-standing tent with light weight fabrics and DAC NSL poles. 2 door, 2 vestibules. 2 lbs 4 oz, $369.

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Nemo Equipment Obi 2.

Poles

Positive: The 8.5 mm DAC NSL poles come with an aluminum hub but with no strut pole.

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Large gap between the tent and poles.

Fly

Positive: The 20 D nylon rip-stop fly feels substantial, Nemo doesn’t list the mm rating but it feels like 2,000 mm.

Body

Positive: 30D nylon rip-stop bathtub floor. Nemo doesn’t list the mm rating for the floor but I suspect it is 3,000 mm. Negative: Heavier coating on light-weight floor can reduce the tear strength… The overall tent size is great, just a bit of wasted interior space due to the lack of a strut pole.

Small Parts

Positive: Brand name small parts from DAC. Negative: As with most manufacturers, they get their small parts; clips, fly attachment pieces and such from DAC, their pole supplier. I am general impressed with Jake’s work, but I found Jake’s Foot fly attachment system to be clumsy, you can’t clip in from multiple angles. I just think the concept of molded corner pieces of the tent is good; I just don’t like the execution and ergonomics of the Jake’s foot. Also I don’t understand why the DAC “twist clips” are semi twisted looking and have a little fin on the interior. It seems like a waste of material.

Overall Rating: 3

Nemo Obi 2P is a great tent, light weight, functional, nothing terrible but nothing either that really shines in a market place crowded with other choices. I did somewhat like the fact that the tent and fly are packaged separate than the pole sack in a way that allows you to easily split the weight. $369.95, 3 lbs even, are competitive specs for a 2 person 2 door freestanding tent. It was rock solid and dry through several storms. Just like the Obi 1P, the Obi 2p is just too short at 84 in.

Summary

All the tents did great through several storms that varied from rain, to sleet, to snow. There was not a bad tent in the bunch. I felt as though the Mountain Hardwear Super Mega UL series got a rating of 5 because it brought the most new technology with some really nice fabrics and proprietary parts. The North Face Mica series was next best with the best design for solving the balance of price, weight and durability. They felt super spacious. The Nemo Obi series was probably the strongest of all of them but was also the shortest. Which tent would I want? Probably the Mountain Hardwear super mega but I am a bit of nerd.

Learning to Packraft: Ten First Steps for Backcountry Travelers

This article identifies the first steps on a path to packrafting competence for those specifically interested in actually carrying their raft on their back into remote environments!

Introduction

I discovered little rubber boats as a wilderness tool in the 1980s (we didn’t call it “packrafting” then) as a mountain exit strategy: a way to relieve tired and battered feet that spent too much time in mountain boots on glacier climbs in the Olympics and Cascades.

My first packrafting trip down a glacial river in the Washington Olympics was an absolute disaster involving wood-shredded PVC, logjam drama, hypothermic whitewater swims sans life jackets or helmets, and dime-store boats with freeboard measured in centimeters.

We were young, stupid, ignorant, and arrogant.

But we lived. Barely. And at the time, we thought it was awesome. Looking back, I think I would have preferred a different path in learning how to paddle in the wilds.

There are many different reasons people want to learn how to packraft. Some people have zero interest in wilderness boat travel and simply want to try packrafting as a roadside activity. Some people are whitewater enthusiasts looking for a different type of thrill than that found in a larger raft, kayak, or river canoe. Still others see packrafting as a way to enjoy stillwater boating without the hassle, weight, and expenses of hard boats, boat trailers, car toppers, and tie-down straps.

For many of us here at BPL, however, we do see packrafting as a tool for wilderness travel – either as a means to paddle alpine lakes as a recreation activity (perhaps combined with photography, fishing, beach camp hopping, etc.), to paddle rivers as a mode of wilderness transport, or to cross larger rivers that we might not be comfortable swimming or wading.

Thus, this article focuses on a path to packrafting competence for those specifically interested in actually carrying their raft on their back into remote environments!

How To Packraft Jordan - 1
For many of us, the packraft is a tool for wilderness travel. Here, the author arrives at a potential camp on the North Fork of the Sun River in the Bob Marshall Wilderness.

Step 1: Rent or borrow a boat.

Before you shell out (no small amount of) cash on a packrafting setup, rent a boat. There now exists a number of packraft rental companies that provide a variety of models that can be tested. I wish that this option was available 10 years ago – it would have saved people a lot of heartache in their decision-making. Rent for a bit, and avoid some buyer’s regret (e.g., “The boat I bought was too heavy/expensive for what I needed…” or “I wished that I had purchased a more durable boat…”).

As a starting point, I recommend renting a boat from Amy Hatch in Victor, ID (Jackson Hole Packraft and Packraft Rentals Anywhere). Amy is an experienced packrafter, rents out multiple model types, has lots of previous experience in renting packrafts and serving rental clients, and has her rental process dialed in.

Step 2: Practice on a frontcountry pond.

Once you get your rental, become one with your boat at the local pond. Paddle it gently, paddle it aggressively, learn how much force is required to make it turn. Practice getting in and out of your boat. Flip it. Swim with it. Try to get back into it from deep water. Paddle into a headwind, parallel to a crosswind, paddle donuts in the wind. The bottom line: do everything you can to learn how your boat responds to you and your paddle.

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Scouts learning to packraft on a reservoir as part of the Montana High Adventure Base Wilderness Packrafting high adventure program.

Once you’ve become familiar with your boat, it’s time to practice paddling efficiency. One of the most valuable exercises you can do at this point is to simply paddle forward in a “straight” line for a long ways (several hundred yards at a time is ideal). This will allow you to dial in a paddle stroke that is reasonably efficient – one that doesn’t involve a lot of side to side bow pivoting, results in good forward tracking, and expends as little energy as possible.

Step 3: Find a calm river.

The ideal river for your next set of practice routines is “medium-sized” (I call a medium sized river one where I can throw a rock across and barely reach the opposite shore), and calm flow (Class 1 only at this point!) with no major eddies, waves, obstructions, or bankside brush.

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The Madison River near Three Forks, Montana is an ideal venue for safe packrafting practice. Flat, Class 1 water provides enough river current to learn packrafting maneuvers without the risk of running into dangerous obstructions.

Step 4: Cross your first river current.

Once you venture out into moving water, the need for safety precautions becomes more serious (see below, Safety Considerations).

Find a calm spot to enter your boat, paddle into a gentle river current, then paddle back to the calm spot. Repeat this several times, changing orientations: try forward paddling across the current, backward paddling across the current, spinning your boat across the current, and just hanging out at the current edge.

Don’t try this at a strong eddy line – where fast moving current is edged against an eddy with opposite-moving flow. These types of crossings sometimes require special paddling techniques to avoid a boat flip.

Step 5: Cross the river.

Get in your boat at a calm spot, paddle away from shore, and face upstream at a quartering angle. Then, forward paddle all the way across the river. Depending on the strength of the river current, paddle hard enough so that you reach the other side at about the same location as your take-off point from the opposite shore. In other words, try not to paddle so hard that you are traveling upstream, but try to paddle hard enough so that you haven’t traveled downstream a significant distance.

You just completed your first controlled forward ferry.

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A medium sized, Class 1 river is the perfect venue to start practicing ferrying (crossing river currents) in a packraft. Madison River, southwest Montana.

Now, do the same thing back to the other shore, but face downstream and paddle backwards. This is the backward ferry.

Get comfortable with both forward and backward ferry crossings in a variety of currents.

Step 6: Find an obstacle and learn to avoid it.

The ideal obstacle in a Class 1 river is a large rock out in the middle of the river current. In the absence of large rocks, you may have to invoke your imagination and pick a recognizable spot marked by a weedbed, protruding log, underwater rock, etc.

Start far upstream of the obstacle, and backpaddle facing downstream. Use backpaddling techniques to ferry from left to right, avoiding the obstacle. Practice this on a variety of obstacles. You are learning the art of backpaddling to control your boat. It’s a critical, foundational skill in river packrafting.

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Here’s a captain’s view of just minor chaos in a Class 2 river. Here, the paddler is backpaddling with a strong left back stroke to swing the stern (rear) of the boat to the right, allowing the current to propel the packraft to the right of the rocks in the foreground. Avoiding obstacles is such a critical skill in packrafting that it’s well worth practicing in low-risk environments of a Class 1 river where the consequences of a swim are low.

Step 7: Repeat Step 2 at your calm river spot.

The idea here is that you want to experiment with as many different maneuvering scenarios as possible so that you understand how your boat is going to respond to a variety of paddle strokes – but now, in the presence of a river current.

Step 8: Paddle your first point-to-point float.

You are now ready for your first point-to-point float on a Class 1 river. Pick a section about three miles in length that you know is free from dangerous obstructions (talk to local paddling shops to let them know what you are looking for, and they can point you in the right direction). Repeat that section a few times until you become familiar with it.

Step 9: Repeat Steps 2-8 with a pack.

Now, load up a backpack with your normal wilderness hiking gear. It’s probably in the range of 20 to 40 pounds. Strap it to the front of your boat’s tie-down points, and repeat Steps 2-8 above with the pack strapped to your boat. You’ll find that your boat is less responsive, and that more effort will be required for you to complete these practice skills effectively and efficiently.

Take it one step further and complete a Class 1 float (Step 8) with your overnight gear, with a camp in the middle, so you can get a feel for the tempo, joys, and challenges of river camping.

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Don’t negate the need to practice the art of packraft camping. Packrafting introduces unique challenges to wilderness camping that may surprise you if you wait until you encounter them in a remote wilderness! Grande Ronde River, SE Washington State.

Step 10: Start planning your packrafting future.

You just completed a crash course in packrafting with your rental boat. Now, you’re ready for next steps: boat shopping, trip planning, and skills development.

At this point, consider partnering with a mentor who is an experienced packrafter to take you to the next level. Class 2 rivers, rivers in wilderness environments, and expedition-length packrafting trips bring complicated challenges and risks that aren’t worth taking if you don’t have boating experience. A mentor will help you adequately prepare for those challenges and identify those risks, so you can return again to paddle another day while maintaining a high fun factor.

Take a packrafting course in Montana.

If you’ve never packrafted before, or you have reached the limit of your current skills, consider enrolling in one of Backpacking Light’s Packrafting Courses. Our instructors will teach you a solid foundation of skills, expedition travel, safety, and risk management, while paddling the majestic and beautiful rivers of southwest Montana.

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The camaraderie of a shared experience and solid skills instruction combined with stunning scenery and just plain fun, are the hallmarks of Backpacking Light’s Wilderness Packrafting programs.

Safety Considerations

You’ll have to make your own judgment calls based on your confidence, ability, and level of fitness, but in the absence of experience, please consider the following as you are learning how to packraft:

  • Wear a USGS-approved Class III personal flotation device (“PFD”). In most jurisdictions, this is law. There’s a reason for the law. Even the most experienced boaters drown.
  • Paddle with a buddy, preferably someone who has more experience than you.
  • Practice in warm weather and water conditions, so hypothermia risk doesn’t complicate your learning.
  • Be a strong swimmer. If you’re not a strong swimmer, take a swimming class first.

What’s Next?

As you gain skills, confidence, judgment, and experience, a wide open world of wilderness travel awaits the competent packrafter!

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Intermediate packrafting: navigating logjam complexity, Fish Creek, Montana.

Overboots as Mukluks: Basecamp Footwear for Ski Mountaineers

Hardshell double boots, common amongst ski mountaineers using modern alpine touring or telemark equipment, make for miserable discomfort during extended stays in camp. Adding a pair of thin neoprene overboots at less than a pound allows one to kick off the plastics and enjoy basecamp slippers while keeping feet warm and dry in the coldest weather.

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