Articles (2020)

Black Diamond Zenix Headlamp Review

Summary of Specifications

The Black Diamond Zenix weights 4.54 oz (129 g) with 3xAAA batteries. It is a 3-LED headlamp with two modes that alternate between a central, “hyperbright” LED and two peripheral standard LED’s. Batteries are located in a rear housing and the headband is a conventional bucket-style with 3/4-inch elastic webbing.

Usability

The Zenix has two modes: a “high” mode that uses the central lens-focused hyperbright LED, and a “low” mode using the two convenetional peripheral LEDs. The modes are toggled by the pushbutton switch that is designed to be activated with your thumb while your thumb and index finger pinch the lamp housing. The swith can be operated with bare hands or thin gloves, but not with heavily insulated gloves or mittens one might use in the winter.

The Zenix has the best battery compartment of the bunch, with access provided by a knurled thumbscrew (that doesn’t fall out after opening the lamp, and thus, cannot be lost in the field) and batteries that sit securely in their sockets. We were able to successfully change batteries in the field while wearing heavily insulated (300-weight fleece) shell mitts with full leather palms, a task we could not perform with any other headlamp in the review.

The Zenix has a tiltable lamp housing that pivots smoothly and is easily adjustable with one hand.

Performance

With fresh batteries at room temperature, the Black Diamond Zenix has an initial center-of-beam brightness of 438 lux at a distance of 2 ft (0.6 m), falling off to 7 lux at 1 ft (0.3 m) off the beam’s center (high setting). The center-of-beam intensity on the Zenix’ low setting was 125 lux.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness 38 °F), the Zenix’s lighting power at its high setting (hyperbright LED) was 397 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 223 lux at 8 hours, and 44 lux at 24 hours. At its low setting (standard LEDs), corresponding intensity levels were 115 lux (0 hours), 14 lux (8 hours), and 6 lux (24 hours).

Application

The Zenix is well suited for navigation lighting, throwing a beam that is both long and bright enough for off-trail nightime navigation or moutaineering use. In its low intensity mode, the lamp provides plenty of illumination for short range task lighting. In short, the Zenix is the first all-LED headlamp we’ve reviewed that can effectively perform both task and navigation lighting exceptionally well.

Weaknesses

The Zenix’ 2-side-LED proximity lighting mode suffers from poor power drain and intensity fall-off. Lack of voltage regulation and the inability to use lithium batteries certainly contribute to this performance. It is interesting to note that the Princeton Tec Scout (powered by lithium coin cells) maintains approximately the same intensity levels at cold temperatures for 8-24 hours of operation.

What is most remarkable, is that the Zenix provides higher intensity light output over longer time when operated in its hyperbright mode in cold conditions! Thus, we’re wondering why the two peripheral LEDs and the low brightness setting are even available, since the latter drains the batteries faster!

As with other Black Diamond headlamps, the button switch of the Zenix is small, tucked under the angled bottom of the headlamp, and difficult to operate with gloved or mittened hands.

Strengths

All is not lost! The Zenix uses a lens-focused hyperbright LED that puts out an intense and narrow beam that has light output that exceeds many halogen bulbs. Surprisingly (given the fact that it uses AAA batteries), the Zenix had excellent cold weather performance, exceeding the performance of headlamps with lower-wattage LEDs powered by Lithium AA cells. The only brighter lamp in our review was one that used a higher-powered 1-watt LED, and the Zenix was the brightest of all of the LED headlamps tested after being continuously operating for 24 hours in cold conditions.

Changing batteries is a cinch in the Zenix and its battery housing design is mitten-friendly.

At 4.5 oz with batteries, the Zenix is the lightest “high intensity” headlamp on the market and an oustanding choice for someone looking for a long-lasting navigational light.

Petzl Tikka Plus Headlamp Review

Summary of Specifications

The Petzl Tikka Plus headlamp weighs 2.54 oz (72 g) with 3xAAA batteries. It is a 4-LED headlamp with batteries in the lamp housing (front). The headband is a single wrap-style elastic band. A version with similar features and electronics, but with a retractable cord headband, is also offered (the ‘Zipka Plus’ model).

Usability

The Tikka Plus improves on the old model Tikka by offering three brightness modes plus one 60 cycles/min strobe mode. A push-button switch toggles between modes, and is designed to be operated with your index finger (it lies on top of the lamp housing) while you pinch the housing with your thumb and index finger. The switch is easily operable with bare hands and thin glove liners. We were able to access it and use it with ski gloves, but not with winter mittens.

Changing the battery is performed by depressing a molded male fitting in the lamp housing, no easy chore with cold fingers.

The Tikka Plus has a pivoting head that is easily operated with one hand but its ratchet makes a racket that excludes this lamp from the kit of anyone who enjoys their peace and quiet in nature.

Performance

With fresh batteries at room temperature, the Petzl Tikka Plus (with electronics similar to the Zipka Plus) has an initial center-of-beam brightness on its high setting of 259 lux at a distance of 2 feet (more than 50% brighter than its 3-LED little sister, the Petzl Tikka), falling off to 13 lux at 1 foot off the beam’s center. On its medium setting, the Tikka Plus has a center-of-beam brightness of 133 lux.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness at 38 °F), the Zipka’s lighting power at its highest brightness setting was 252 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 75 lux at 8 hours, and 12 lux at 24 hours. At its medium brightness setting, corresponding brightness levels were 110 lux (0 hours), 57 lux (8 hours), and 26 lux (24 hours).

Application

The Tikka Plus is Petzl’s most powerful 3xAAA headlamp. It is a solid performer, even under cold conditions, and thus, is appropriate for short range trail navigation as well as task lighting. With fresh batteries, the Tikka Plus casts a beam with good flood quality that is bright enough for off-trail navigation or moutaineering.

Weaknesses

The Tikka Plus’ primary weakness is the difficulty in changing batteries in cold conditions. In addition, Petzl might be wise to address the noisy ratcheting head pivot, which can be reengineered for smoother operation.

Strengths

The Petzl Tikka Plus is an excellent performer. Its beam quality, brightness, feature set, and cold weather performance are all impressive considering its small form factor.

Summary

We had a difficult time selecting a Trail’s Best Award for a headlamp in this class. Two lamps in particular had great performance with multiple lighting modes: the Princeton Tec Aurora and the Petzl Tikka Plus. The Petzl Tikka Plus, with an additional LED, had an initial light intensity with fresh batteries in cold conditions that was nearly 50% greater than that of the Aurora. However, for cold weather usability, the Aurora earned the edge. The Tikka Plus’ noisy and rough ratchet, battery compartment that was nearly impossible to open with cold fingers, and tiny button were its only (albeit minor) blemishes. However, the performance of the Tikka Plus is excellent, and it deserves an honorable mention as a Trail’s Best Award finalist.

Photon Fusion Headlamp Review

Summary of Specifications

The Photon Fusion weighs 5.78 oz (164 g) with 3xAA alkaline batteries, or 4.81 oz (136 g) with 3xAA lithium batteries. The Fusion has a 7-LED headlamp module (4 narrow beam LEDs, 2 wide angle LEDs, and one red LED) attached to a front-mounted battery housing.

The Fusion offers 9 operational modes. With a switching power supply, the Fusion has one of the few power-regulated circuits among LED headlamps, thus holding a constant light intensity as battery power diminishes.

The headlamp module is hinged for angle adjustment and the lamp housing mounts to a 1-inch elastic webbing bucket strap.

Usability

The Fusion has the most sophisticated electronics and power management of any headlamp we’ve reviewed. Its 9 operational modes include:

  • 4 steady light modes: “hyperbright”, “brilliant”, “bright”, and “economy” (in order of decreasing intensity)
  • 3 blinking strobe modes: strobe (fast), slow (120 Hz), and SOS (visual morse code)
  • 1 dimmable red LED for night vision
  • 1 auto-off mode that doubles as a battery level check.

The Fusion offers the opportunity to conserve batteries by toggling between the hyperbright mode for taking a quick look into the distance and switching back to its bright mode for short range trail navigation and task lighting.

The lamp is turned on and off, and the modes are switched, through various combinations of holding or clicking either the left or right switch buttons. This gives the user great flexibility in selecting the mode without cycling through all nine of them, but requires that the user actually read the instruction manual to understand how the process works! The Fusion will certainly not be found in the Headlamps for Dummies aisle.

The Fusion is the only headlamp we know that has a built in battery level check and a dimmable red light to preserve night vision. From our recent night vision article, you’ll recall that properly dimming a light is the most important factor for preserving night vision, and the Fusion has this ability.

Operation of the top mounted dual mode (left side, right side) button is possible while wearing thin gloves or light fleece gloves, and nearly impossible with heavy mittens. The problem in cold weather switch operation is not necessarily inherent in the button design, but in distinguishing the two buttons with poorly dexterous handwear.

Snapping open the battery compartment requires that a fingertip pry open a latch, and is a neither easy nor pleasant task in cold weather.

The lamp and battery pack module can be separated from the head band and reassembled for use as a handheld flashlight or table light. The downside of this feature is that the headlamp can pop off the battery pack with a sharp blow, as one might experience when accidentally banging the lamp against rock while climbing. A simple solution is to attach the lamp and battery pack with a thin cord to prevent their separation when this happens (which, granted, is not often).

Performance

In its “hyperbright” brightness mode, with fresh batteries at room temperature, the Photon Fusion has an initial center-of-beam brightness of 255 lux at a distance of 2 ft (0.6 m), falling off to 22 lux at 1 ft (0.3 m) off the beam’s center.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness 38 °F), the Photon’s “hyperbright” mode lighting power was 220 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 205 lux at 8 hours, and 0 lux (dead) at 24 hours.

In its “brilliant” brightness mode, with fresh batteries at room temperature, the Fusion has an initial center-of-beam brightness of 164 lux at a distance of 2 ft (0.6 m), falling off to 19 lux at 1 ft (0.3 m) off the beam’s center.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness 38 °F), the Photon’s “brilliant” mode lighting power was 155 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 143 lux at 8 hours, and 0 lux (dead) at 24 hours.

Application

The Fusion offers steady, sustained brightness and performs well at cold temperatures for short and mid-range navigation. While it doesn’t have the center of beam intensity and distance of some of the more focused beams, it did provide the brightest (and widest) flood coverage of any lamp we tested. We found this kind of illumination to be very useful for nightime navigation and mid-range task lighting, such as evaluating the overall pitch of a tarp.

Weaknesses

The broad beam of the multiple LED Fusion was not nearly as bright as or as energy efficient as the more tightly focused, higher wattage LED headlamps we tested. When Photon is able to marry their sophisticated electronics with one of the new one- or five-watt LEDs on the market, and create a more focused beam for long range navigation lighting, they will likely set the standard in both headlamp performance and sophistication.

Cycling through the multiple modes of the Fusion is complicated affair, with the most used modes (steady brightness) no less accessible than the least used (strobe and auto-off) modes.

At its weight, and considering that the Fusion is capable of using lithium AA batteries, its cold weather performance was disappointing, in spite of its use of power regulation.

Strengths

Sophisticated power management for constant level light output and multiple modes make the Fusion a versatile and unique lamp. In its “bright” mode, the Fusion will illuminate at a constant intensity of nearly 40 lux (suitable for short- and mid-range task lighting and trail navigation) for almost 4 days. The Fusion also conserves power by dropping an intensity mode at predetermined battery levels.

For those that prefer a broader floodlight type of beam, the Fusion provides bright illumination over a wider area than most headlamps. At 22 lux, it was the brightest lamp tested at 1 ft (0.3 m) off the beam’s center – brighter than any LED headlamp we tested. The Fusion also has a nice night vision feature (with its red LED) and a battery level check.

The opportunity to use lithium AA’s, of course, improves its cold weather performance while lightening up the battery weight.

Princeton Tec Aurora Headlamp Review

Princeton Tec Aurora Specifications

The Princeton Tec Aurora weighs 2.66 oz (75 g) with 3xAAA batteries. It is a 3-LED headlamp with batteries in the lamp housing (front). The band is a 1-inch elastic wrap-style headband.

Usability

The Princeton Tec Aurora has three lighting modes (‘high’, ‘medium’, and ‘low’ and two strobe modes (30 cycles/min and 120 cycles/min), toggled by a push-button switch on top of the housing, operated with your index finger while your thumb and index finger ‘pinch’ the lamp housing. The switch is not recessed, so its operable while wearing a wider range of handwear than lights with recessed switches, and we were even able to operate it while wearing shelled winter mittens.

Changing the battery is performed by pulling on the front of the molded lamp housing with your fingertips, and was difficult, even with cold fingers.

The Princeton Tec Aurora has a pivoting head that operates smoothly and quietly with one hand.

Performance

With fresh batteries at room temperature, the Princeton Tec Aurora has an initial center-of-beam brightness on its high setting of 203 lux at a distance of 2 feet, falling off to 13 lux at 1 foot off the beam’s center. On its medium setting, the Aurora’s center-of-beam brightness at room temperature was 108 lux.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness at 38 °F), the Aurora’s lighting power on its high setting was 172 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 64 lux at 8 hours, and 14 lux at 24 hours. On its medium setting, the corresponding brightness values were 88 lux (0 hours), 38 lux (8 hours), and 24 lux (24 hours). In general, the Auora was among the best performing LED headlamps in our review with respect to maintaining enough light for bright task lighting after 24 hours of exposure to cold conditions.

Applications for the Princeton Tec Aurora

The Princeton Tec Aurora attempts to bridge the gap between task and short range navigation lighting. At a high brightness with fresh batteries near 200 lux, it is more than adequate for trail illumination and short range flood lighting for mountaineering scenarios. Further, even after 24 hours, the Princeton Tec Aurora maintains enough intensity for excellent short-range task lighting.

Weaknesses

The Princeton Tec Aurora’s weaknesses are few. As with other LED headlamps in our review, there is always room to improve in designing a battery housing that can be opened with cold fingers. In addition, the Aurora’s AAA batteries do not sit securely in the battery housing, so some care and attention is needed when closing the housing to ensure that the batteries maintain their contact points.

Strengths

Overall, the Princeton Tec Aurora is a very bright and powerful headlamp. It was the only 1-to-3-LED headlamp tested that had a brightness exceeding 200 lux without the aid of hyperbright or 1-watt LED’s. Good brightness over the 24-hour life of the light, combined with a switch that can be used with gloves and a wide, comfortable headband makes the Princeton Tec Aurora a wise choice if you are looking for a excellent all-around trail headlamp that weighs less than 3 ounces.

Summary

We had a difficult time selecting a Trail’s Best Award for a headlamp in its class. Two lamps in particular had great performance with multiple lighting modes: the Princeton Tec Aurora and the Petzl Tikka Plus. For cold weather usability, the Aurora earned a slight edge, and we are pleased to honor its design and performance with a 2004 Trail’s Best Award.

Princeton Tec Matrix 2 One-Watt LED Headlamp

Summary of Specifications

The Princeton Tec Matrix 2 weighs 5.34 oz (151 g) with 2xAA alkaline batteries and 4.69 oz with 2xAA lithium batteries. It is a 1-LED headlamp featuring a one-watt LED, with batteries in the lamp housing (front). The band is a 1-inch elastic bucket-style headband.

Usability

The Matrix 2 has one, full-power lighting mode, operating by an internal switch activated by rotating the lamp housing, as if you were focusing an SLR camera lens. This type of switch can be easily operated with any winter handwear short of thumbless mitt apparel.

Changing the battery is performed by pulling a lever on the molded battery housing with your thumb, and can be performed with bare hands, gloves, or thin mittens easily.

The Matrix 2 has a smoothly pivoting head that can be operated with one hand.

Performance

The Matrix 2 is the brightest LED headlamp marketed for specialty outdoors use. The only brighter headlamps are 1- and 5-watt LED lights marketed to the caving community.

Turning this lamp on initially, we thought we received the wrong model. It was our first experience with 1-Watt LED technology, and we thought we were mistakenly provided a halogen lamp. The Matrix 2 shot a bright, white, focused beam that illuminated objects more than 50 m away.

With fresh batteries at room temperature, the Princeton Tec Matrix 2 has an initial center-of-beam brightness of 792 lux at a distance of 2 feet, falling off to 8 lux at 1 foot off the beam’s center – an incredibly narrow beam uncharacteristic of what we’ve seen from LED lights in the past.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness at 38 °F), the Matrix 2’s lighting power was 604 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 552 lux at 8 hours, and 0 lux (dead) at 24 hours, a result that is consistent with Princeton Tec’s claim of a 15 hour battery life. The Matrix 2 is the brightest single-LED headlamp in this review.

Application

The Princeton Tec Matrx 2 is not a task light. It is a high-powered navigation headlamp suitable for off-trail and mountaineering use, with good, sustained brightness over the life of the batteries that is achieved without the sophistication and expense of a voltage regulating circuit.

Weaknesses

The Matrix 2’s primary weakness is that it lacks a task lighting mode or short-range flood-type LED. While Princeton Tec makes a headlamp that does perform this functionality (the Yukon HL), that model is heavier (8.0 oz with 3xAA alkaline batteries). Our review team felt that Princeton Tec has the potential to be the best all-around performing headlamp for peak-bagging if it had a short range task lighting mode that conserved battery power when needed.

Strengths

The Matrix 2 offers bright, sustained light that exceeds the performance of many halogen lights. With its 1-watt LED offering up to 12 hours of sustained bright light, it was the only LED headlamp reviewed suitable for serious mountaineering or off-trail navigation requiring long range lighting. The Matrix 2 has one of the best performance to weight ratios of any light we’ve tested. It is waterproof, can be turned on and off with heavily mittened hands, offers simple battery changes, allows for the use of AA lithium batteries for cold weather performance and weight savings, and has a rugged design. With lithium batteries’ flatter discharge curve, the Matrix 2 achieves many of the benefits of a lamp with programmed voltage regulation. At 8 hours, the Matrix 2 was still at 91% of its brightness (similar to the voltage-regulated Photon Fusion with lithium batteries). However, at 8 hours, the Matrix 2 was 2.7X brighter than the Fusion and 2.5X brighter than the Zenix, two other lamps in the same weight class (4-5 ounces). The Matrix 2’s extremely bright lighting can easily be extended to 24 hours by adding only 0.95 oz (27 g) of batteries (2 lithium AA’s).

For having an outstanding performance-to-weight ratio that considers weight, usability, battery life, and light intensity in cold conditions, we are pleased to award the Princeton Tec Matrix 2 with BackpackingLight.com’s 2004 Trail’s Best Award.

Princeton Tec Scout Headlamp Review

Princeton Tec Scout Specifications

The Princeton Tec Scout weighs 1.4 oz (40 g) with its 4×2032 coin cell batteries. It is a 2-LED headlamp with the battery housing in the front (same compartment as the lamp housing). The headband is a single strap, wrap-style with 3/4″ elastic webbing.

Usability

The Princeton Tec Scout offers three brightness modes (‘high’, ‘medium’, and ‘low’) plus two blinking strobe modes (30 Hz, 120 Hz). Modes are toggled with a single pushbutton switch, designed to be pushed with your index finger while your thumb and index finger ‘pinch’ the lamp housing. The switch is easily operable with bare hands, but its tiny 1/4″ x 3/8″ size and low depression depth make it difficult to use while wearing even thin gloves and nearly impossible with any kind of mitten.

Changing the batteries requires removing a single screw from the housing with a Phillips screwdriver. Because the screw is not set in a secured screw housing, the tiny screw require attention so you don’t lose it in the field.

The pivoting head can be operated with one hand (but the hinge could benefit from smoother operation), and pivots to a position where the switch remains covered during storage, preventing accidental turn-on of the lamp in your pack or pocket.

One unique feature of the Princeton Tec Scout is the ability to remove it from the headband and clip it to the bill or brim of a cap. In this configuration, the Scout with batteries sans headband weighs only 0.94 oz (26.6 g).

Performance of the Princeton Tec Scout

With fresh batteries at room temperature, the Princeton Tec Scout has an initial center-of-beam brightness on its high setting of 111 lux at a distance of 2 feet, falling off to 2 lux at 1 foot off the beam’s center.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness at 38 °F), the Scout’s lighting power on its high setting was 81 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 14 lux at 8 hours, and 9 lux at 24 hours (sufficient for close-up task lighting). For the Scout’s medium setting, corresponding brightness levels were 51 lux (0 hours), 10 lux (8 hours), and 6 lux (24 hours), respectively.

Application

The Princeton Tec Scout is best suited as a short range task light. With fresh batteries at its highest setting, it is bright enough for short-range navigation on a trail, even in cold conditions.

Weaknesses

The Scout’s primary weakness is its battery configuration. While 2032 coin cell batteries are readily available, carrying four spares, plus a Phillips screwdriver to open the housing, and having to keep track of the tiny housing screw in the field will effectively limit the Scout to outings where battery replacement is not a chosen option!

Strengths

The Princeton Tec Scout offers a lot of function in such a small package. Three brightness modes, two strobe modes, and the ability to separate the light from the headband and use it on a cap brim make the Scout one of the most feature packed sub-2-oz headlamps on the market.

Petzl Zipka Headlamp Review

Petzl Zipka Specifications

The Petzl Zipka weighs 2.07 oz (59 g) with 3xAAA batteries. It is a 3-LED headlamp with batteries in the lamp housing (front). The headband is a spring-loaded retractable cord.

Usability

The Petzl Zipka consists of only one lighting mode, activated by a slider switch on top of the housing, operated with your index finger while your thumb and index finger ‘pinch’ the lamp housing. The switch is easily operable with while wearing even thicker gloves, but it’s top-of-the-housing switch location makes mittened use very difficult.

Changing the battery is performed by depressing a molded male fitting in the lamp housing, no easy chore with cold fingers.

The Petzl Zipka does not have a pivoting head but we found the natural angle of the lamp to be correct for most task lighting, and some adjustment is possible by changing the location of the headlamp housing on the forehead.

Performance

With fresh batteries at room temperature, the Petzl Zipka (with electronics equal to the Petzl Tikka, which includes a wrap style elastic webbing headband) has an initial center-of-beam brightness on its high setting of 165 lux at a distance of 2 feet, falling off to 18 lux at 1 foot off the beam’s center. The Zipka’s flood quality (defined as the fraction of beam intensity at 1 foot off center divided by the intensity in the center of the beam) was the best of the all of the headlamps evaluated in our review.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness at 38 °F), the Petzl Zipka’s lighting power was 152 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 60 lux at 8 hours, and 25 lux at 24 hours. The Zipka was the best performing LED headlamp in our review with respect to maintaining its original beam intensity (15%) over a 24 hour period in cold conditions.

Applications for the Petzl Zipka

The Zipka-Tikka headlamp line has always been assumed to be a short range task light. However, the performance of this headlamp, even under cold conditions, indicate that it is appropriate for short range trail navigation as well. With fresh batteries, the Petzl Zipka is bright enough to illuminate a large area over a short distance and would even be appropriate for off-trail navigation or moutaineering.

Weaknesses

The Petzl Zipka’s primary weakness is the difficulty in changing batteries in cold conditions. Its single mode of brightness may be perceived by some to be a disadvantge, but Petzl offers the Zipka Plus for those who want the advanced circuitry of a multi-mode headlamp.

Strengths

The Petzl Zipka is an outstanding performer. We were impressed with its beam quality, brightness, and compact form factor. Further, we were surprised by its cold-conditions performance, considering that it uses alkaline AAA batteries (which currently have no Lithium option). For its weight, it’s hard to find a headlamp that is as simple to operate, or is a better all-around performer.

Black Diamond Moonlight Headlamp Review

Summary of Specifications

The Black Diamond Moonlight weighs 4.4 oz (125 g) with 3xAAA batteries (e.g., Energizer Titanium E2). It is a 4-LED headlamp with the battery housing in the rear. The headband is a conventional three-strap (bucket-style) elastic webbing (3/4″) style.

Usability

The Moonlight is upgraded for 2003, with the addition of two more brightness modes (bringing the total to three: high, medium, and low) and one strobe mode. Modes are toggled with a single pushbutton switch, designed to be pushed with your thumb while your thumb and index finger ‘pinch’ the lamp housing. The switch is easily operable with bare hands or thin gloves, but like its smaller cousing the Ion, the 3/8-inch diameter button is nearly impossible to operate with the thick gloves (e.g., ski gloves) or shelled mitts (e.g., 300 weight fleece) commonly used for winter backcountry travel.

Changing the battery is a simple affair, involving only removing the rubber backing from the rear battery housing, and can be performed with cold hands, or even while wearing thin gloves.

The pivoting head is easily operated with one hand.

Performance

With fresh batteries at room temperature, the Black Diamond Moonlight has an initial center-of-beam brightness on its high setting of 113 lux at a distance of 2 feet, falling off to 11 lux at 1 foot off the beam’s center.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness at 38 °F), the Moonlight’s lighting power on its high setting was 107 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 41 lux at 8 hours, and 13 lux at 24 hours. For the Moonlight’s medium setting, corresponding brightness levels were 75 lux (0 hours), 38 lux (8 hours), and 19 lux (24 hours), respectively.

Application

The Moonlight is suitable primarily as a short range headlamp for performing camp chores. With fresh batteries at its highest setting, it is bright enough to illuminate a trail, even in cold conditions. After 24 hours of continuous use in cold conditions, the Moonlight’s ability to be a navigation light is replaced by a fair ability to provide continued task lighting.

Weaknesses

The Moonlight’s primary weakness is in its LED bulb configuration. One basis behind a parallel LED configuration is to increase the flood area of the beam. However, our tests with multiple headlamps indicate that flood area is best increased by adjusting lens concavity rather than LED configuration. Since the Moonlight is a lens-less headlamp, the benefit of this configuration to promote a flood is marginal.

Strengths

The 2003 Moonlight is significantly improved over previous models because of the addition of medium and low brightness settings, which allow batteries to be conserved for task lighting, extending burn time by more the double over older Moonlights.

Black Diamond Ion Headlamp Review

Summary of Specifications

The Black Diamond Ion weighs 0.97 oz (27 g) with its single 6V battery. It is a 2-LED headlamp in a housing hinged and attached to a single, 0.5-inch wide elastic webbing strap that is adjustable with a band toggle.

Usability

The Ion has only one brightness mode, toggled between on and off with a single pushbutton switch, which is designed to be pushed with your thumb while your thumb and index finger ‘pinch’ the lamp. The switch is easily operable with bare hands or thin gloves, but nearly impossible with shelled mitts (with a thickness of 300 weight fleece). Changing the battery requires that the lamp be snapped from its housing, after which the casing can be snapped open to expose the battery compartment. The task requires some fine motor dexterity and finger strength, and is very difficult with cold hands. The pivoting head requires two hands to adjust the headlamp angle because of the instability of the headlamp housing against the head.

Performance

With fresh batteries at room temperature, the Black Diamond Ion has an initial center-of-beam brightness of 118 lux at a distance of 2 feet, falling off to 8 lux at 1 foot off the beam’s center.

In our cold conditions test (center-of-beam brightness 38 °F), the Ion’s lighting power was 42 lux at 0 hours (fresh batteries), 3 lux at 8 hours, and 1 lux at 24 hours.

Application

The Ion is suitable as a short range headlamp for performing camp chores, but does not appear to have enough power for directional lighting in cold conditions. Even after 8 hours of continuous use with cold batteries, the Ion is generally unsuitable for short range task lighting.

Weaknesses

The Ion’s cold weather performance is its primary weakness. It is a difficult light to use with mittens or cold hands, and cold weather lighting performance is poor, with its light output at 8 hours in our cold weather test inadequate for anything but dimly lit task lighting within 1-2 feet of the lamp. Light output after 24 hours was virtually nonexistent.

Note: To improve cold weather performance there is a 6v 160 mAh lithium photo cell option for the Ion (not tested in this review). Replace the manufacturer provided battery with a Radio Shack battery part number 23-266. Battery designations for other manufacturers are 2CR-1/3N, L544BP, PX28L, K28L.

Strengths

The Ion is one of the lightest LED headlamps available. Its tiny form factor, light weight, and ability to use a lithium battery make it an attractive option for the ultralight backpacker.

Patagonia Dragonfly Pullover REVIEW (Spring 2004 Style)

A three ounce wind shirt with an important distinguishing feature: durability.

Introduction

Herein we review Patagonia’s newest wind shirt, to be released in Spring 2004, the 3 oz, hoodless, Dragonfly Pullover. Patagonia will also manufacture a 4 oz, hooded, Dragonfly Full Zip Jacket.

Many feel that a wind shirt is the most versatile piece of clothing you can carry in your pack. Worn over a base layer, a wind shirt provides protection from wind chill and light precipitation, and serves to retain body heat lost through evaporative cooling in colder conditions. On its own (depending on the next-to-skin comfort of the fabric), it can serve as comfortable warm-weather insect and sun protection.

A classic wind shirt is a single-layer woven (nylon or polyester) cut to the pattern of a shirt, pullover, or jacket. The key characteristics of a wind shirt are extremely light weight, high breathability, and water resistance (usually provided by a durable water repellent finish, or DWR). Pertex Microlight, Pertex Quantum, and other 15-30 denier uncoated nylons are examples of the types of fabrics that provide these characteristics.

Overview

Patagonia calls the Dragonfly “The absolute lightest shell we’ve ever made for high-intensity minimalist adventures.” The new Dragonfly offers a new balance point between light weight and durability. Patagonia’s 1.1 oz triple ripstop fabric has a substantial feel and a relaxing, but not clingy, drape. This fabric is softer, more breathable, and less transparent than the Dragonfly fabrics used on 2003 and earlier models.

Some manufacturers have switched to 0.9 oz fabrics to reduce the weight of their wind shirts. Patagonia has taken a slightly different approach. They retained a tougher 1.1 oz shell fabric and compromised weight in other areas. Although the new Dragonfly offers a deep chest zipper, it uses a very light and thin elastic draw cord and miniature one-handed cord lock at the hem.

Specifications

  • Garment Style – Hoodless wind shirt
     
  • Fabric Description – 1.1-oz. 15 x 20 denier triple ripstop nylon; Deluge DWR treated.
     
  • Weight – BPL measured 3.2 oz men’s medium (manufacturer claim is 3.0 oz) Note: this is a pre-production sample.
     
  • MSRP – Men’s Dragonfly Pullover: $115.00, Version with full zip and hood: $135.00
     
  • Manufacturer Contact Information

    Patagonia
    8550 White Fir St.
    P.O. Box 32050
    Reno, NV 89523-2050
    PH: 1.800.638.6464

  • Usability

    The Dragonfly Pullover has a half-length (14 in), fully backed #3 chest zipper for good ventilation and temperature regulation. A 3 in high collar provides neck protection. Cuff closures are simple sewn-in elastic, and were neither too light nor too loose for anyone on our testing crew. The pullover has a single handwarmer/storage pocket on the lower right side seam (zippered closure). As mentioned earlier, the Pullover’s hem has an exceptionally light drawcord and miniature cord lock that can be operated with a single hand.

    Sizing

    The Dragonfly Pullover in a Size Men’s Medium had a trim-to-slightly-loose fit on one of our testers (an average build 5’8” 150 lb male). The Pullover fits appropriately over a baselayer and 200 weight fleece garment. The mid-length hem comes down to crotch level providing some butt but not much thigh coverage. The collar easily fits over a 200 wt fleece balaclava on a 16 in neck.

    Fit

    We had no problems with the Dragonfly Pullover restricting any of our movements. Raising our arms did not raise the hem of the pullover and there was no binding in the shoulders when wrapping our arms around our chest (although some restriction might occur in shoulders when layering the garment over some bulkier insulating shirts/jackets). There was enough length in the sleeves that we could withdraw our hands while hanging them down at our sides.

    Wind and Precipitation Resistance

    In the field the pullover was able to shed light precipitation (both rain and snow) when used over a wool baselayer and a mid-weight synthetic fleece vest in temperatures between 25 and 40 degrees. The pullover wetted out over time but did a credible job of keeping seepage to reasonable levels. The Dragonfly/baselayer combo makes a surprisingly effective (and very light) soft shell arrangement.

    Breathability

    The 2004 Dragonfly fabric is more breathable and is an improvement over 2003 and preceding models. Still, the deep chest zipper is a welcome feature for ventilation moisture during periods of high exertion, and lack of a deep zipper on other ultralight wind shirts remains our number one complaint with manufacturers. With the garment zippered up, however, it was apparent from our field tests that the 1.1 oz triple ripstop nylon is still not quite as breathable as some of the newer 0.9 oz fabrics used in other manufacturer’s windshirts (e.g., compared to the Marmot Chinook, Montane Aero, and Rab Quantum Wind Top).

    Recommendations for Improvement

    The best features of the Dragonfly are its overall fit and design, the deep chest zipper, and the durability (especially, abrasion resistance) of the triple ripstop fabric. However, the durability comes at a cost – hindered breathability. While pre-2003 Dragonfly garments offered a fabric has enough water resistance to fit the bill as a shower shell, and other fabrics (e.g., Pertex Quantum) offer exceptional levels of breathability, the 2004 Dragonfly fabric appears to fall in the middle. Some will think that this balance provides the best of both worlds. Others will say that it’s the worst of both worlds because it can perform neither function (breathe or resist showers) optimally. Although we recognize that such distinctions in breathability and water resistance may be akin to hair-splitting, we’d prefer that manufacturers bring two wind shirts into their product lines – one with exceptional breathability in a non-hooded, pullover style for use during high exertion activity, and one with exceptional water resistance in a hooded jacket style for use as a shower shell. This would give consumers a better selection to allow them to use the one they need for a particular situation. We’ve even included both types of wind shirts on many of our own trips, recognizing that six ounces is a small weight penalty for such versatility.

    In addition, the side seam pocket on the Dragonfly, while giving an impression of apparent simplicity, is awkward to use, too small, and obscured by a hip belt or climbing harness. A larger, zippered napoleon-style chest pocket would provide more utility and ease of use.

    In fairness to Patagonia, we could not help but recognize that the new Dragonfly offers excellent durability at this weight, so if your outdoor pursuits involve occasional bushwacking or rock scrambling, the Dragonfly might find a home on your gear list.

    And, if the 3.2 ounce weight bothers you because “there are wind shirts that weigh less than 3 ounces out there,” then get your scissors out and cut out the hem cord and cordlock. The result with be a true “shirt” that is easier to tuck in with its flat hem while still retaining good functionality!

    Wireless in the Wilderness: An Overview of Communications Technologies for Backpackers

    Introduction

    Solo. All by yourself. Middle of nowhere. 30 miles from the nearest road. Sounds great, doesn’t it? But, what if something goes wrong? What if you’re injured? What if a storm destroys your tent, or lightning starts a fire nearby? How will you get help?

    Modern wireless communications might be the answer. But, what kind of coverage and service can you expect? What can you do to maximize your cell phone’s effectiveness in the wilderness? What are the weight/performance trade-offs? This article should give you a better feel for the answers to those questions, and help you decide if a cell phone is worth carrying.

    Wireless Technology Primer

    The cellular system concept is simple. When you make or receive a call, your cellular phone communicates with a cell-site somewhere in the area. That cell-site connects to equipment at a central location that in turn connects to the regular telephone network. As you move around, the cellular system figures out which cell-site is best suited to handle your call. All of this is, or should be, transparent to you and the other party on the call. The system provides a service that works just like a regular telephone — only better.

    Basic Radio Facts

    Mobile phones operate on a specific range of radio frequencies. Why do frequencies matter? The answer requires a quick review of high school physics. First, all radio waves travel at the same speed — the speed of light. Frequency is measured in cycles per second — a measure of the number of complete waves transmitted in one second. Since the speed is constant, increasing frequency decreases the wavelength and decreasing frequency increases the wavelength.

    Antenna length is a direct function of wavelength. Longer wavelengths require longer antennas. Shorter antennas mean shorter and hopefully lighter cell phones. That is not the whole story, however. Unfortunately, higher frequency signals attenuate more rapidly — a fancy way of saying they don’t travel as far. That requires either more cell-sites, or more power from the cell phone transmitter.

    Analog and Digital

    Frequency is also an indicator of the type of service available. The FCC grants licenses to carriers for specific services on specific frequencies. Cellular and PCS services are essentially the same, only in different frequency bands. A national carrier may actually have a cellular license in one area and a PCS license in another area. The older analog technology is only available from one of the two cellular carriers in any given area. Push-to-talk two-way radio service (no dialing required) is only available from an SMR (Specialized Mobile Radio) carrier. Digital services are available from all three types of carriers — but not all cellular carriers offer digital service.

    There are four major types of digital service in the United States, and none are compatible. TDMA is the oldest system, used primarily by AT&T Wireless. AT&T Wireless has also created a GSM network. GSM is popular in Europe and used by several PCS carriers here. The SMR carrier Nextel uses iDEN®. Verizon Wireless, Sprint PCS, and other PCS carriers use CDMA. Due to industry consolidation (mergers), some carriers have portions of their digital network that are incompatible with other portions. All digital services require significantly less power than analog services and generally offer better overall voice quality, as well as longer battery life.

    Analog service is the same everywhere. Although there are two frequency bands (“A” and “B”) for the two cellular carriers, the phones are capable of working on both bands. Some phones, sold primarily by carriers with both cellular and PCS licenses, are capable of working at both cellular and PCS frequencies. They will provide digital services in both bands, and may work with analog service. An FCC ruling will allow carriers to discontinue analog service in about four years.

    Wilderness and the Wireless Industry

    If you’re a California resident planning a hike on the Appalachian Trail, you don’t have to call an East Coast company to get wireless service. Several carriers are truly nationwide and may have a license where you’re going. Even if your service provider doesn’t have a license, it may have a roaming agreement with a carrier that does have the license. Check with your service provider to see what’s available.

    If your service provider doesn’t have a roaming agreement where you’re going, you may still be able to make a call. Most carriers offer “credit card roaming” for this situation (Editor’s Note: due to inherent insecurities in wireless cellular networks, there may be some risk in transmitting sensitive information such as credit card numbers). Dial a number, and you’ll be directed to a service that will ask for a credit card number before connecting your call. Check the rates before you decide to continue, or you may be very surprised at the bill. This only works if the technology used by your cell phone and the local service provider are identical. A GSM phone won’t work on a CDMA network.

    Coverage

    A much bigger question is whether you’ll actually have coverage. In other words, are there any cell-sites handling the area where you want to backpack? The answer, of course, is — maybe.

    Wireless carriers are in business to make money. They make more money where there are more people to make calls. Their natural preference is to cover populated areas first, and less populated areas later. Cell-sites are expensive, requiring hundreds of thousands of dollars to build, and still more dollars to operate and maintain.

    A cell-site in a remote area may not generate enough revenue to pay operating costs. Most people making calls with that cell-site are just passing through on a nearby highway. Very few of them will go off the highway to any appreciable degree. The financial incentives for the carrier to build anything beyond decent highway coverage are weak at best.

    Since radio transmission is a line of sight proposition, carriers build rural cell-sites where they can cover a large amount of territory. If you’re in a valley one ridge away from the only nearby cell-site, you may as well not have a phone. Climb the ridge and your service should be great. The more rugged the territory, the more this happens.

    Even if the terrain permits line of sight transmission, nature may not. Trees do a very good job of absorbing radio waves. Heavily forested areas are very difficult to cover well. Reception may improve in the winter when the leaves have dropped. You may have to emulate GPS users and move to a meadow or clearing to get a good signal.

    Combine market realities with geographic limitations, and you can see why the FCC rates rural coverage from both PCS and Cellular as “Poor.” The FCC doesn’t specifically discuss the quality of SMR coverage. However, SMR is primarily aimed at commercial dispatch users who have even less reason to go into the backcountry than most wireless users. The coverage maps for SMR carriers reflect that marketing emphasis.

    The “Maintenance Window”

    As you can probably imagine, most people use their cell phone during the day. Usage starts to ramp-up in the early morning, climbs as the morning progresses, levels off a bit at lunch, and then climbs to a late afternoon peak. It then tapers to a minimum level sometime in the very early morning. Naturally, service providers prefer to do any service-affecting work during the wee hours when few people are using the system. That time is called the “maintenance window.”

    A midnight-to-five maintenance window isn’t likely to affect most backpackers. However, not all service-affecting work can get done during that time. Larger projects are usually completed during the other portion of the maintenance window — the weekend. If you’re an employed backpacker, a large portion of your hiking time is probably during a weekend.

    On any given weekend, chances are good that somewhere in a wireless system, some site is off the air for an extended time. The odds of it being the site you need to use are small, but still present. Carriers don’t like this anymore than you do; they can’t generate revenue if people can’t call. A “planned service outage” is still an outage.

    So, what can you do? Nothing, really. The carrier is unlikely to tell you to expect such an event. The service contract probably explicitly allows it, and the disclaimer on the coverage map will certainly cover the possibility. It will probably never affect you — just don’t count on it not happening.

    Alternatives

    You might consider some alternative technologies. The most likely options are Citizen’s Band (CB) Radio, Amateur (HAM) Radio, General Mobile Radio Service (GMRS) and Globalstar.

    CB Radio is a short-range push-to-talk service. The portable handsets are heavy, and not very good without a 9-foot-long external antenna. People do monitor the emergency channel, but barring unusual atmospheric conditions you still need line-of-sight to get to them . It’s nowhere near as popular as it used to be, so there are fewer people listening who might help you. I don’t recommend it for lightweight backpacking. (Editor’s Note: Another push-to-talk technology that is gaining popularity to maintain communications within a two-mile line-of-sight distance among members of a party is FRS (Family Radio Service), made popular by the Motorola TalkAbout series radios. FRS technology is moving rapidly, with some FRS radios approaching the 4-oz per handset range, and coming with an ever-increasing number of features useful to outdoorsmen, including compasses, altimeters, and GPS).

    Amateur Radio is much more interesting. It can reach for miles (in a straight line). A lot of people are very serious about monitoring it. You can get news from all over the world. You can get fairly light ham equipment. Although I’ve seen some portables weighing around six ounces, the more powerful ones weigh in the 8-15 ounce range. The biggest catch is that you need to get an FCC license to operate it. If you’re willing to study for the license, amateur radio may be a good solution for you.

    GMRS is somewhat of a cross between Citizen’s Band and amateur radio. According to the FCC, the normal range for a GMRS mobile is five to twenty-five miles. However, that range is more typical of a fixed base station, not a portable unit. In urban areas, many of the same people that monitor the CB emergency channel also monitor GMRS. You do need to pay a fee to get a license, but you don’t need to take a test. GMRS portables cost several hundred dollars and weigh about the same as ham radio portables.

    Globalstar is a system that uses satellites to provide comprehensive coverage. Globalstar does not cover the North or South Pole. It does cover just about everything else. It really does offer complete coverage in North America. You will pay dearly for that coverage though. Not only is it expensive to use, the handsets are expensive to buy, bulky and heavy (Editor’s Note: the average Globalstar handset still weighs about 12 oz). They resemble the cellular phones of ten years ago, but with a much bigger and fatter antenna. If you absolutely have to be able to call, no matter what, this is for you.

    Editor’s Note: Technology will likely evolve in the direction of hybrid devices that support a variety of wireless communications technologies. Examples of this technology include location-reporting cellular phones, cellular/two-way handsets, and radio/GPS combination radios. SAR volunteers tell us that one ideal combination of wireless communication includes two devices – a five-watt two way radio to maintain communication among the entire party, and a cellular phone for use when the radios don’t work. I suspect that a four ounce device capable of cellular, satellite, and two-way communications, with a functional GPS display, weather station, and personal locator beacon, is not far away.

    Recommendations

    If you’re still interested in carrying a cell phone into the wilderness, you should consider some basic things. You need to choose the service provider and then the specific model of phone. You need to do some preparation before you travel, figure out the right way to pack the phone, and know how to use it in an emergency.

    Before You Go

    The first step in choosing a service provider is determining who has coverage where you’re going. Most service provider websites will have a coverage map that gives the approximate coverage for their system. They will probably also give you the address of the store nearest the area you’re interested in. Employees that live or work close to where you’re going will give you a much more reliable answer than those who live closer to your home. If there are no company stores, try to find an authorized agent. Even better, find several such sources.

    If you’re not sure who has coverage, start with the cellular carriers. They have had more time to build out their networks. You can also check one or more of the comparison services on the Internet. They provide the ability to compare pricing from multiple carriers. Use more than one: I’ve found that any single service may not list all of your options — or even all of the service providers.

    Once you’ve chosen a service provider, choose a phone. Since this is for emergency use, you don’t need fancy features. You do want lightweight. In general, smaller phones are lighter and more expensive. Some tips:

    • Look for a phone that can prevent accidentally powering on the phone while it’s stored in your pack. This can be a mechanical method such as a flip up keypad, or a software lock.
    • Get the lightest battery you can afford, preferably Lithium Ion technology since they weigh less, last longer, and aren’t subject to memory effects. If the phone has an extended-life battery, you can usually save weight by getting a slim battery.
    • Get a Cigarette Lighter Adapter (CLA) for your car. Use the CLA if you need to make a call on the road.
    • Look for an antenna that is somewhat protected when retracted. Some popular flip-up phones are notorious for antenna breakage — I’ve replaced mine three times.

    Before you go anywhere with the phone, learn to use it. If it’s a cellular phone, learn how to switch from the “A” system to the “B” system and back (or vice versa). Learn how to force a call into analog if it has that capability. Experiment with every feature in the manual. Like any other piece of gear, it’s only as good as you know how to make it.

    On the Trail

    When you pack the phone, keep a few things in mind. Water, extreme cold, and extreme shocks are all bad for cell phones. Pack it somewhere that is protected from all of the above. Turn it off before you pack it. Take advantage of any battery saving feature you can think of. Turn off vibrating ringers. Turn off service beeps or flashing lights. Minimize the keypad lighting interval. You’re packing this for emergencies, so you want it to work as long as possible.

    If you do need to use it for an emergency, you’ll hopefully have service. If not, try forcing the call to analog. Still no luck — try to use another carrier’s system. If you still can’t call, start looking for high places. Climb the ridge, climb a tree, move into a meadow. Try all the things you tried initially. Make sure you have fully extended the antenna and try again. If you still can’t get through, self-reliance is the name of the game.

    If you are able to make a call, you may still have a problem. You need to know where you are for people to help you. 911 operators are used to dealing with highway locations, not so used to dealing with clearings in a forest. Sounds obvious, but if your map skills aren’t that great, well… (Editor’s Note: The combination of a GPS unit and a cellular (or satellite) telephone can be a tremendous asset to SAR personnel. However, even without a GPS, your ability to read a map and communicate, for example, a quad name and your approximate UTM or lat/lon coordinates can expedite a rescue.)

    Once you’ve made contact, consider scheduling times for future contacts and shutting the phone off in the meantime. This is especially important if you’re making an analog call on a small battery. In that situation, you only have a few hours of standby time, let alone talk time. The available time will shrink considerably if you’re in a limited coverage area requiring more power even in a standby mode.

    In spite of the limitations, I’ve been able to call in a new forest-fire report with my cell phone faster than the ranger standing next to me could get through with his two-way radio. The system does work; you just have to work within its capabilities.

    Resources

    Compare Services:

    Wireless Service Providers:

    Other Resources:

    About the Author

    Eric Kammerer has been an avid backpacker since 1974. He first used tarps in a 1978 Outward Bound course and started backpacking in tennis shoes somewhere in the early 1980’s. He also remembers carrying an 80+ pound backpack – and won’t do it again. Eric is a Senior Network Engineer for a major wireless carrier, where he is responsible for the design of switching elements and facilities for portions of two western states.

    The Weird Science of Night Vision: Lighting Considerations for Lightweight Backpacking

    Be sure to check our Gear Guide to LED Headlamps.

    Turn night into day (use bright light), or preserve night vision (use low light)?

    Because of the eye’s physiology, it isn’t possible to both use a bright flashlight and preserve your night vision. Our eyes go through chemical changes in response to light, and these changes take time to reverse. It can take as little as several minutes or as long as several days to recover maximum night vision following exposure to bright light. Note that each person’s night vision potential is different, with age, presbyopia, smoking, medications and selection of parents among the many factors that affect how well anybody can potentially see at night.

    In very dim (scotopic) conditions, when the cones aren’t contributing to vision, we do not perceive any color or details. We can see objects in black and white only, like on our grandparents’ TV. This is a common experience on starlit or overcast, moonless nights. As mentioned earlier, the eye responds differently to different parts of the wavelength. But it’s even more complicated than that. The cones, which give us our acute and color vision (photopic), are most sensitive at 555nm (yellow-green). This is the reason, by the way, for the newer fire truck and ambulance colors – it’s the color we see most readily during the day – not “fire engine” red. The rods, on which we rely for our night vision, are most sensitive at 505nm (blue-green). One result of this phenomenon is that blue-green light looks brighter at night than red. Unlike the cones, which can see all of what we humans perceive as the visible spectrum, rods essentially cut off all wavelengths greater than about 640nm, the red portion of the visible spectrum. What this means to us is that for all colors other than red, as they are gradually dimmed there comes a point – called the cone threshold – where color is no longer perceived but light still is. At this point only the rods are contributing to vision. With red, however, the cones and rods lose perception simultaneously, and the red light simply winks out.

    How can the lightweight backpacker take advantage of this technical gobbledygook?

    Most people think they want a flashlight that gives bright, even, white illumination to emulate daylight conditions as best as possible. This approach keeps us in familiar territory perceiving both detail and color after dark. The bright-‘n-white approach, however, is not the most efficient one, either for power management or for making use of our eyes’ natural capabilities.

    For example, if you want to see the most detail possible you need to maximize stimulation of the cones because they provide detail along with color. Using yellow-green LEDs in your flashlight accomplishes this, while simultaneously using less current.

    Or perhaps you want to use the least amount of light you can get away with for navigating in the dark while, again, using the least power possible. In this case you might want a blue-green light source that maximizes rod sensitivity..

    The third approach is to do everything possible to maximize and maintain your night vision potential. This means either using no light at all, or sparingly using a very dim red light. If you must use a light, even briefly, covering one eye will protect that eye’s night sensitivity while sacrificing the other’s to the temporary “flash blindness.” Flashlights sold to astronomers are universally red, despite some thought that green might be more effective. Rigel Systems makes a continuously variable LED flashlight, powered by a 9-volt battery, that’s available in several color variations. The all-red or red/white light is marketed to astronomers, and green versions are sold to folks who use night vision gear. A simple thumbwheel adjusts the light output.

    Red or Green-Yellow?

    The two theories might be summarized like this:

    • To read a map or star chart you need to use your photopic (cone) vision because your scotopic vision will not allow you to read the details. Because you want to minimize flash blindness, you want to use the least amount of light possible, which means a dimmable yellow-green (555 nm) light source turned just high enough to read by. The downside is that you’re affecting the rods along with the cones at this wavelength.
    • Because you’re going to experience a limited amount of flash blindness no matter what, you can limit the effect on your cones by using a wavelength (deep red) that your rods can’t see and won’t respond to. Again, turn up the light only as much as needed to read your map. The downside is that the light required to see will be much more intense than if you were using yellow-green. (Editor’s Note: On many non-military maps, important lines are often printed in shades of red and will be invisible under a pure red light).

    Astronomy groups generally forbid the use of anything but red lights after dark at star parties, so they’ve cast their vote. If you’re interested in experimenting for yourself, Rigel can make a red/green dimmable light on special order. Note: a green light will not allow you to distinguish the wooded (green) areas on a topographical map.

    Daytime Strategies.

    Extensive research with pilots has ascertained that a day spent in bright sunlight can significantly affect night vision. Studies have shown that ten consecutive days of sunlight exposure cut our nighttime visual acuity, visibility range, and contrast discrimination in half. With enough daily exposures to sunlight, normal rod sensitivity may not be reached at all, something to consider if you’re vying for the job as cabana boy at Club Med, Bora-Bora. Fifteen percent transmission sunglasses with full spectrum (gray) lenses are recommended to best protect night vision. An ironic note to summiteers and alpine fans is that high altitude negatively affects night vision, diminishing it a reported 5% at 3,500 feet, 20% at 10,000 feet and 35% at 13,000 feet. Tying up the package are the facts that advancing age and, for all you backpacking smokers, the carbon monoxide in tobacco smoke also degrade night vision. With all these factors working against us, it’s a wonder we can see at all in the mountains after sundown, so you might want to take a light along on those two a.m. bathroom breaks to keep from wandering off that cliff.

    Buying an LED Torch: Headlamp Design Considerations to Help Guide Your Purchasing Decisions

    Be sure to check our Gear Guide to LED Headlamps.

    Introduction

    If your brain isn’t overwhelmed by all the variables in our primer on LED headlamps, it’s time to go shopping. Your first priority should be to define your needs, then come up with a list of headlamps (or handheld flashlights) that match them. Try to test them all before selecting. If you’re a fair-weather backpacker who hikes mostly in the summer, you might be able to get away with a button cell microlight such as the popular Photon II or III. Weighing mere grams, it will still provide enough light to rummage through your pack or stir a pot of food by, and can be modified to attach to a cap for hands-free use (use self-stick Velcro or a binder clip). However, if you’re caught on the trail after dark, only those with owl-like night vision will find it possible to navigate anything but boulevard-like trails using one.

    For non-technical trail navigation, a photo cell headlamp such as the Black Diamond Ion or PrincetonTec Scout give a brighter beam and hands-free operation at a little more than an ounce or two.

    One of the compact LED headlamps driven by three AAA batteries can be considered the next step up. The Petzl Tikka and Zipka series, the Black Diamond Moonlights, the Princeton Tec Aurora and similar lights are still lightweight, while giving plenty of light for non-technical nighttime navigation and in-camp chores, such as hanging a bearbag – tasks for which button cell lights are overmatched. Used prudently, a single set of batteries can last a season and the light, with batteries, only weighs about three ounces.

    Bigger, brighter headlamps come in a vast array of configurations. If you’re a predawn climber, a nighttime explorer, or go on long hikes on short winter days, you’ll probably want a hybrid headlamp or a multi LED multi mode headlamp that puts out serious light for traveling and frugal (battery-saving) light for your time in camp. We’re in a transition period during which more-sophisticated and powerful voltage-regulated LED lamps (like the Photon Fusion) will likely displace incandescent and even hybrid headlamps as the backcountry standard.

    Design Considerations

    Headlamps vary in layout. Here are some design options to consider while shopping.

    Straps:

    Headlamps have either a single, adjustable elastic headband or a band plus a top strap. Some straps are only large enough to fit around the head, while others can be sized to allow fitting on a helmet. The top strap helps stabilize the light and keeps it from slipping while you’re on the move, but some folks find them annoying. In response, some headlamps have a removable top strap – perhaps the best of both worlds.

    The Battery Pack:

    The batteries sometimes are stored in front, inside the lamp unit itself, sometimes in a battery pack attached the back of the head connected by a cable, and sometimes kept in a remote battery pack that’s not part of the headlamp itself, also connected by a cable. Bulk, balance and battery warmth are all considerations when selecting which configuration. The simplest, smallest models have everything in the lamp unit. The Petzl Tikka, Petzl Zipka and Princeton Tec Aurora are all examples. These tend to be a bit front-heavy in use and, because they don’t have center straps, can slide down your forehead while you’re active. But they’re also the lightest and most compact available. Informal field observations lead us to believe that the batteries don’t stay as warm in these lamps as they do with back-mounted battery packs.

    Back-mounted batteries are generally the standard configuration for larger, higher powered headlamps. With the weight divided fore and aft and with a center strap, the headlamp will tends to stay in place on your head. When it’s cold, you can keep the batteries warm by wearing the headlamp under a jacket hood, increasing their life. Some headlamps put as many as three AA batteries up front but use a combination headband and over the crown strap to solve the slippage problem.

    Remote battery packs allow you to keep the batteries warm and out of the way inside your coat, pants pocket or backpack. Very large battery packs, such as those using multiple C-cells, are too heavy and too bulky to keep on your head. Routing the connecting cable so that you don’t snag it at an inopportune time can be a challenge, though.

    The Lamp Head:

    Lamp heads vary in design: some can be aimed by changing their angle, while others are fixed. The aimable (pivoting) ones are quite handy. Incandescent lamp heads generally have adjustable beams, focusing from spot to flood; LED lamps have fixed focus (unless they have switchable LED arrays). An LED lamp head that sits too close to the head can create annoying glare, especially for glasses wearers, because stray light can hit glasses lenses or even the eyes. Compare, for example, the Princeton Tec Aurora with the Black Diamond Moonlight. The Moonlight places the LEDs farther from the forehead, reducing the possibility of stray light hitting the face. Some headlamps are waterproof while others are open to the elements. While intruding rain won’t necessarily spell ruin to an LED light, sweat or saltwater certainly may – plus there’s the possibility of switch failure.

    Beam Pattern:

    As noted earlier, LEDs come prefocused, so the lamp maker controls beam pattern by selecting and arranging them in the headlamp. Hybrid lights, whether LED/LED or incandescent/LED generally switch between a bright narrow high beam and a floodlight style low beam. With incandescent high beams, the beam itself is usually adjustable. Simpler lights – single or multiple LED with no options – have non-adjustable patterns that range from a spot to a circle to an oval, depending on model and maker. Also note that the beam thrown by a white LED generally has some intensity and color variation. It’s common to see a blue or purple fringe around the center white pool of light. This can be annoying for activities like reading. Some multi LED lights use a combination of focused and wide beam LED in combination with a reflector to have a lighting pattern that has a bright central beam but also good peripheral illumination.

    Switches:

    There are pushbuttons, slide switches and twist switches. Lights having multiple modes may have one switch that does everything, or two switches – one for power and one for mode selection. Ideally, a switch will be easy to reach and use in all conditions, waterproof and won’t accidentally switch on in your pack. In practice, most switches are compromises from this ideal. It’s difficult to test switches in the store with cold, gloved hands, but you should at least keep the possibility in mind when shopping. (Editor’s Note: The true test of the usability of a winter torch? The ability to operate the switch while wearing mittens.)

    How to Test?

    The best way to decide which light is right for you is to borrow several and try them out. Next best is to read comprehensive, sometimes amusing, and sophisticated reviews online. In-store testing helps, but has its limitations. First, the store is brightly lit and your eyes will be daylight adjusted. Second, you have no way of knowing the battery condition in the various lights. Even so, playing with them in person means you can test whether they fit well, see their beam patterns and decide whether you can easily operate their switches, at least at 75 degrees. Be sure to move your head and bounce up and down to find out whether they stay put.

    When REI first opened Gear Nirvana – their Seattle flagship store on Yale Avenue – they had the perfect solution: an enclosed diorama for their bicycle headlights. You stood at a rail in this darkened room and pressed buttons to switch on the various lights, illuminating the display (which had bushes, rocks, critters, etc.). The lights were powered by transformers, so that you knew you were comparing them all at full power. Something similar would be fantastic for comparing flashlights and headlamps. Retailers?

    Western Mountaineering Flight Vest

    Introduction

    The Western Mountaineering Flight Vest provides one of the highest warmth:weight ratios of any garment on the market. You can use this vest for cold rest stops, to boost an underrated sleeping bag, or to throw in your daypack for a cold and windy summit. The vest stuffs down to a ball about five inches (13 cm) in diameter (about the size of a grapefruit). Like most down garments, the Flight vest is ideally suited for staying warm when you’re not too active in dry weather. Conversely, it is not applicable for aerobic efforts (you’ll rapidly overheat) or when exposed to wet weather (wet down loses its insulating capacity). In addition, with its very light 0.9 oz/yd2 (30 g/m2) shell fabric, the Flight should not be subjected to a lot of abuse.

    Our men’s medium sample of WM’s Flight Vest had 1.7 inches (4.3 cm) of single layer loft. Surprisingly, for this weight (our sample was 6.0 oz / 170 g), you still get a full-featured garment—a nice down filled collar, insulated handwarmer pockets, a full front zipper with down filled draft tube and an elastic drawcord hem with dual cordlocks

    An insulating vest offers other advantages over a jacket, besides just saving weight. While there is no question that a vest is not going to keep you as warm as a jacket, a vest does concentrates all of its warmth where it does the most good: around your neck and torso, and thus, provides a higher warmth:weight ratio. A vest works better than a down jacket for light aerobic activities, since the armholes on a vest allow for some moisture venting. In addition, you can wear the vest in situations where you might tear the abrasion-prone fabric on the arms of the jacket. Finally, with no puffy arms to get in the way, you get great freedom of arm motion.

    Note on Availability: Western Mountaineering expects the first Flight vests to ship to retailers in late November.

    Specifications

  • Garment Style – Ultralight full-zip down vest.
  • Weight – 6.0 oz (170 g) in a size Men’s Medium, as verified on our scales. Note: Our sample was 1.0 oz over WM’s current weight specification of 5.0 oz, apparently resulting from some down overfill in our pre-production sample. Western Mountaineering told us to expect production vests to be about 5.0 oz / 142 g (Small), 5.5 oz / 156 g (Medium), 6.0 oz / 170 g (Large), and 6.75 oz / 191 g (Extra Large).
  • Insulation – 850+ fill power goose down in sewn-through baffles.
  • Loft – We measured single layer loft to be 1.7 in (4.3 cm) at the baffle midpoint. This figure is the average from six “double layer” measurements of the vest on two different occasions. The maximum double layer measurement was 4.0 in (10.2 cm) and the minimum double layer measurement was 3.3 in (8.4 cm). (See the “About Measuring Down Loft” section in Lightweight Down Jacket Comparison. Note: the loft measured in this sample may be slightly higher than the loft of production vests that begin shipping in late-November, due to apparent overfill in our sample (see notes above about weight).
  • Fabric Class of Shell – Wind and water-resistant downproof polyester
  • Fabric Description of Shell and Liner – The outer shell fabric weight is 0.9 oz/yd2 (30 g/m2). The construction is a 15 denier by 20 denier woven polyester taffeta with durable water repellency (DWR). The outer shell fabric is very quiet and has a nice hand. Liner fabric is a 0.9 oz/yd2 (30 g/m2) 20 denier woven nylon taffeta (Pertex Quantum) Note: Sometime in early 2004 Western Mountaineering will change the outer shell fabric to a 0.9 oz/yd2 (30 g/m2) polyester taffeta made up of 22 denier/18 filament yarns in both directions with a high thread count (362 threads/in2). At this filament count, the fabric nearly approaches the construction of a true microfiber. Western expects slightly better moisture and abrasion resistance for the new fabric.
  • MSRP – $150
  • Manufacturer Contact Information
    Western Mountain Sports
    1025 South 5th St. San Jose, CA, 95112
    PH: 408.287.8944 – FAX: 408.287.8946 http://www.westernmountaineering.com/
  • Features

    Insulation

    The Flight Vest is filled with 850+ fill power goose down and uses sewn through baffling construction. Down has the most loft per weight of any insulation material available. It compacts more and retains its loft longer through multiple compressions than synthetic insulations. Down excels as an insulating fill in dry and cold temperatures. If down gets wet, it loses almost all of its insulation and dries far slower than synthetic insulations. In comparison, synthetic insulations absorb less water, retain significantly more insulating value when wet, and dry faster.

    Temperature Regulation

    The Flight Vest has an insulated collar and full front zipper. The collar makes an excellent seal around the neck due to slight compression of the down in the collar as the vest is completely zipped. True handwarmer pockets are fully insulated, providing warmth for both sides of your hands.

    Usability

    The Flight Vest provides a good balance between features and weight. It has a snug down filled collar, insulated handwarmer pockets, a full front zipper backed by a down filled draft tube, and an elastic drawcord hem with dual, “one-handed” cordlocks. The front zipper is a very light #3 one-way coil from YKK. The full front zip provides the most versatile temperature regulation (relative to pullover-style garments with half-zips) and simplifies doffing and donning the vest rapidly at rest stops. Fully insulated handwarmer pockets are un-zippered with a simple elastic trim. There are no internal storage pockets on the Flight Vest.

    Sizing and Fit

    The Fight Vest fits fairly trim over a base layer shirt and thin shell jacket (a common scenario for use, as the vest is donned to prevent heat loss at rest stops), without restricting movement or compressing insulation (our male model for evaluating fit was 5’8” / 173 cm and 145 lbs / 66 kg with a 38 in / 97 cm chest and 34 in / 86 cm waist). The hem length is just below the belt level – don’t expect the vest to provide much butt or thigh coverage. The collar fits snug over a 200 weight fleece balaclava layered over a 16 in (41 cm) neck.

    Performance

    Storm Resistance

    With a down insulated draft tube and a snugly fitting collar the flight vest is a good insulator dry and breezy conditions. Not surprisingly, strong winds and even light activity results in heat loss from the armholes. The vest should be combined with insulating headwear and layered under a roomy shell jacket for maximum performance in cold, windy conditions.

    With its very light shell, the Flight Vest is more prone to outside moisture penetration than down garments with more robust shell materials. With its effective DWR finish, the shell material of the Flight can withstand brief periods of mild moisture , as might occur when you brush up against the condensation-soaked wall of your shelter, but it is not appropriate as outerwear in wet weather. Although we noticed that a pool of water placed in a fabric depression away from seams did not penetrate the fabric for several minutes, moisture readily penetrates the seams and easily wicks into the insulation.

    Breathability

    The lining and shell of the Fight Vest are uncoated, highly breathable fabrics . Thus, moisture vapor emitted via evaporative cooling can easily pass through the garment. The Flight’s significant quantity of down fill, however, inhibits the breathability enough so that it is not useful for sustained periods of activity. You can extend its use during periods of activity in very cold conditions by opening the zipper and by allowing heat to escape from the armholes, though this risks the accumulation of moisture in the vest and subsequent reduction of its insulating qualities.

    Warmth

    In the field, we found the Flight vest suitable for staying warm at short rest stops in temperatures of 25 to 40 degrees,with no or little wind. In windier conditions, we needed to layer a hooded shell over the vest (or if not too cold, to layer the vest over a shell we were already wearing). Typically, we were comfortable performing camp chores in temperatures near freezing wearing a lightweight wool base layer, the Flight Vest, a 200-weight fleece balaclava, and a hooded shell jacket.

    For temperatures around freezing we found the vest comfortable to wear as a hiking warm-up (on level ground or downhill!) by using the zipper to control ventilation. It should be noted that one of our reviewers hiked downhill for several miles in very windy (up to 25 mph), sub-freezing (25 °F / -4 °C) conditions in a Flight Vest and remained comfortable without excessive moisture buildup. Thus, we would expect the vest to be suitable in similar conditions as an “emergency” hiking layer, as long as your level of exertion was not high enough to expel too much moisture into the garment.

    Warmth as Part of a Sleep System

    We tested the Flight Vest as part of a sleep system (combined with an overfilled Rab Top Bag (2001 model, 21 oz) and an Epic/silnylon bivy sack) down to temperatures of 28 °F (-2 °C) and remained comfortably warm. We wore the vest with other clothing while sleeping that included a 200 weight fleece balaclava, lightweight wool baselayer, and a lightweight soft shell jacket. One advantage of the vest over the jacket is that it takes up less room when worn inside a narrow sleeping bag. However, one advantage of the jacket is that it can be more effectively layered (rather than worn) over the chest area, providing some draft protection with the arms of the jacket strategically wrapped around your neck. This type of layering provides uninhibited loft of the insulating garment and is the warmest method of incorporating it into your sleep system. The vest can also be effectively layered in this manner, but is somewhat cooler without the additional insulation provided by arms on the garment.

    Climbing Performance

    While the Flight Vest is not a climbing garment by any stretch of the imagination, we can envision it being used for a quick belay in mild and dry conditions, or as a warmup garment for general mountaineering use. Without arms, we found this a good garment for scrambling in cold weather provided there was little potential to scrape the front of the vest on sharp rocks or brush. Again, make no mistake – the Flight shell material is not very abrasion or rip-resistant, and it is probably inappropriate for use in belayed climbing.

    Recommendations for Improvement

    One reviewer complains, “The two big cord locks and bungee at the hem are like 36″ mud tires on a Mini Cooper.” Western Mountaineering reports that “we have asked quite a few of our vendors & customers and our response has been strong enough that a drawcord is necessary.” While we recognize the value of a drawcord at retaining heat, we also recognize that there are lighter elastic cords and cord locks than the ones on the Flight. Better yet, in keeping with the ultralight style of the garment, a simple Lycra-bound elastic hem would be even more appropriate. For the hardcore ultralighters, it should be noted that it’s not hard to cut the cord and cordlocks off the vest, if you so choose!

    Frameless Backpacks: Engineering Analysis of the Load Carrying Performance of Selected Lightweight Packs

    Introduction

    The objective of this study was to evaluate and compare the load carrying performance of several frameless packs available to the ultralight backpacking community.

    Frameless backpacks tested in this study include:

    • Granite Gear Virga
    • GoLite Jam
    • Six Moon Designs Moonlight
    • Wild Things AT
    • Equinox Katahdin
    • GoLite Dawn
    • Osprey Aether
    • McHale Supbop*

    The McHale Subpop was used as a control, to illustrate the difference in load carrying performance for a pack with and without its aluminum frame stays, and comparing the differences between a flat foam back panel and a foam cylinder rolled inside the circumference of the main packbag.

     

    Analysis of Pack Torso Lengths

     

    As a foundation for understanding the methods described herein, the reader will be repeatedly referred to the detailed methodology described in the article, Quantitative Analysis of Backpack Suspension Performance, published previously.

    The pack torso length was measured in an unweighted state as the vertical distance between the centerline of the hip belt and the apex of the shoulder straps (e.g., for packs without load lifters, the seam at which shoulder straps are sewn into the back panel, and for packs with load lifters, the seam at which the load lifters are sewn into the back panel).

    Suggested torso lengths and the pack size (e.g., “Small”, “Medium”, etc.) were derived from the marketing materials provided by each manufacturer. In addition, we defined an arbitrary “optimum” user torso length, as the pack torso length minus three inches (to account for suspension collapse) plus one inch (to account for the optimum location location of the hip belt centerline, which usually occurs about one inch below the iliac crest). This definition is equivalent to the definition of user effective torso length defined in the article Quantitative Analysis of Backpack Suspension Performance.

    This definition is based on a combination of observing industry averages of highly-rated packs, acceptable design conventions among reputable custom pack designers, and experiential observations of performance from our testing staff. It should be noted that this arbitrary definition does not impact the shape or extent of the torso collapse curves illustrated later in this article, nor does it impact the relative comparison of performance factors between different manufacturers. However, it does alter the derived value of a pack’s load carrying capacity (also presented later). More important, this arbitrary definition of optimum user torso length does not alter the comparison of load carrying capacities of packs among the different manufacturers.

    Pack torso lengths (Tpack,unweighted), manufacturer-reported torso lengths (Tmanufacturer), and optimum user torso lengths (Toptimum) are outlined in Table 1.

    TABLE 1

     

    Pack Size Pack Torso Length
    (Tpack,unweighted)
    Manufacturer
    Suggested User
    Torso Length
    (Tmanufacturer)
    Optimum User
    Torso Length
    (Toptimum)
    Virga M 21.0″ 18-22″ 19.0″
    Jam L 20.5″ 20-22″ 18.5″
    Moonlight M

    17.0″

    n/a 15.0″
    AT L 21.5″ n/a 19.5″
    Katahdin L 22.0″ n/a 20.0″
    Dawn L 19.0″ 19-22″ 17.0″
    Aether 30 L 23.0″ 20-22.5″ 21.0″
    Subpop Custom 20.375″ 18.375″ 18.375″

     

    It should be noted that Granite Gear (Virga), Osprey (Aether 30), and McHale (Subpop) suggest torso lengths that are in sync with industry guidelines (as do Wild Things and Equinox, although specific recommendations were not available from these manufacturers), while GoLite (Jam and Dawn) underestimates user torso lengths for their packs by a half to full size (1.5 to 2.0 inches). Six Moon Designs (Moonlight) appears to be an unusual anomaly, with an optimum user torso length (15.0″, size M) that is one and a half to two full sizes below the industry standard of 18-20 inches (size M).

    1. Comparison of Techniques for Improving Frameless Pack Load Carrying Capacity

    Manufacturers employ a variety of techniques for improving the carrying capacity of their frameless packs. Such techniques include hip belt load distribution fins (e.g., Jam) or hip belt “snugger” straps (e.g., Katahdin), wide hip belts (e.g., SubPop), fixed foam padded back panels (e.g,. Jam), etc. Some pack makers (e.g., GVP Gear and Six Moon Designs) have also added external pad pockets, into which a sleeping pad can be folded against the back and remain accessible without unpacking the pack (i.e., as a sit pad at rest stops).

    In addition, manufacturers use other techniques that are less important at load transfer, including load lifter straps for the shoulders (e.g., Virga). Load lifter straps are often designed to transfer load between the hip belt and shoulders, but in a frameless pack, tests in our lab have shown that they do not contribute significantly to load transfer unless an internal frame is in place – i.e., a foam back panel or a foam pad rolled as a cylinder are insufficient to allow load lifter straps to work effectively. Many pack designers are quick to admit (and ask to remain anonymous) that load lifter straps are used on frameless packs primarily to extend the torso range of a pack and make a particular size fit a wider range of people, thus allowing a company to deliver a limited size range of packs to the market and keep production costs down.

    Users also employ various techniques for improving the carrying capacity of their frameless packs. Packing gear tightly (or using smaller packs) and using a sleeping pad rolled as a cylinder in the main packbag are the two most fundamental and popular of these techniques. Some users opt to fold a sleeping pad and insert it into the pack against the back panel.

    Herein, we evaluate the effect of rolling a sleeping pad and inserting it into the pack’s main packbag, and packing gear into the interior of the rolled cylinder. This is the most common method used by ultralight backpackers for improving a pack’s load carrying capacity.

    Many ultralight backpackers (and ultralight pack manufacturers) claim that the “rolled cylinder” method is “just as good as a frame” for transferring loads between the shoulder straps and hip belts. We hypothesize that these types of statements comprise unjustified hyperbole that needs to be challenged. And so, herein, we offer objective evidence that challenges these assumptions and illustrates the differences in load carrying comfort in the same pack (McHale SubPop) with different methods of load suspension:

    1. Two 7075-T6 aluminum frame stays (1/8″ x 1/2″) with closed cell foam (1/2″) back panel
    2. Closed cell foam (1/2″) back panel only
    3. Closed cell foam pad (7/16″ thick x 20″ wide x 45″ long) rolled as a cylinder inside the pack.

    Using the method of packing and measuring defined in Quantitative Analysis of Backpack Suspension Performance, we collected torso collapse data and derived the suspension performance factors (also defined in that article) for these three suspensions. This torso collapse data is presented in Figure 1.

    FIGURE 1

    Figure 1 shows that the use of a rolled cylinder vs. a standard foam backpad has little impact on the load carrying performance of this particular pack. This was not surprising, since other observations with this pack (not discussed herein) have shown that the hip belt construction is a major feature contributing to load carrying performance. The data does show, however, that the use of a rolled cylinder may slightly improve load carrying performance at lighter weights (less than 20 pounds), and that it may actually hinder load carrying performance at heavy weights (greater than 35 pounds). Our observations are consistent with our intuition – at lighter loads, a rolled cylinder packed tightly maintains excellent load stability, while at heavier loads, collapse of the cylinder and reduction of its surface area in contact with the user’s back results in poor load transfer performance. However, the reader is cautioned that the data for loads less than 20 pounds is not statistically significant for the pack using a rolled cylinder vs. standard foam back panel.

    Clearly, Figure 1 shows that gear packed* inside a rolled cylinder results in very poor suspension performance relative to the same load density packed in the same packbag with two internal frame stays. The differences become statistically significant at loads in excess of 15 pounds, and correlates to substantial differences in perception of user comfort at loads greater than 20 pounds (data not shown, cf. Quantitative Analysis of Backpack Suspension Performance).

    * Even at a relatively “tight” soft goods density of 2.1 oz/L, with the majority of additional weight distributed as flat steel plates along the inside back panel.

    2. Comparison of Suspension Performance of Various Backpacks Using Closed-Cell Foam Rolled Cylinder-Based Suspensions

    The second objective of this study was to compare the performance of various frameless packs available to ultralight backpackers using the ‘rolled cylinder’ technique of improving the suspension performance of the packs.

    All packs were packed to a soft goods density of 2.2 oz / L (+/– 5%) in their main packbag, with additional weight added in the form of flat steel disks secured to the inside back panel and distributed evenly along the back panel (refer to Quantitative Analysis of Backpack Suspension Performance for more detail). The rolled cylinder foam pad used for this portion of the study was the same pad used above in Section 1. The only pack for which the rolled cylinder method was not employed was the Moonlight, which is designed with an external pad pocket on the back panel, into which a foam pad can be folded and inserted into the pocket. For this pack, an 8-section Z-Rest was folded accordion style and inserted into the pad pocket, as per manufacturer recommendations.

    Figure 2 compares the collapse of pack torso lengths for each pack.

    FIGURE 2

    Figure 2 shows that no pack using a frameless, foam pad suspension was able to resist torso collapse to the extent of a pack with a frame (McHale Subpop w/frame) at weights meaningful to most lightweight backpackers (15 to 30 pounds). At 30 pounds (considered by many to be the very upper limit of frameless pack load carrying capacity), no frameless pack was capable of resisting a torso compression of less than 10%, which generally equates to a full frame size reduction (e.g., “medium” to “small”), and is a point at which comfort is severely compromised. Near the edge of this boundary are the Subpop (no frame), Jam, Moonlight, and AT packs, which appear from Figure 2 to be among the best at resisting % torso collapse at this load range.

    A more telling comparative analysis of suspension performance can be made from the data shown in Figure 3, which compares the performance factors of each pack (see Quantitative Analysis of Backpack Suspension Performance for a discussion of how performance factors are derived).

    FIGURE 3

    Performance factors are proportional to the ratio of torso collapse in a loaded pack relative to the torso length of an unloaded pack. They are normalized such that a performance factor = 1 indicates zero collapse (i.e., at a load of zero) and a performance factor = minus infinity indicates total collapse of the torso length to a length of zero (i.e., at a load of infinity). The performance factor = 0 axis (indicated by the red horizontal axis in Figure 3) is the point at which the pack torso length collapses to the user effective torso length (defined as the optimum user torso length for the purpose of this comparative study, as defined earlier in this article) and load can no longer be distributed off the shoulders completely to the hips. See Quantitative Analysis of Backpack Suspension Performance for a detailed discussion of the mathematical and engineering basis for defining the performance factor.

    In short, the weight at which a particular pack’s performance factor curve crosses the performance factor = zero axis is arbitrarily defined as the pack’s load carrying capacity. Although we have previously correlated the load carrying capacity as defined in this manner with perception of user comfort (in Quantitative Analysis of Backpack Suspension Performance), the reader must understand that other factors can influence load carrying comfort and capacity.

    Thus, Figure 3 shows four distinct (statistically significant) groupings of backpack load carrying capacities.

    1. Katahdin (11 pounds). This pack had a significantly lower load carrying capacity than other packs tested. Two reasons for this are its very large circumference and capacity, and the use of hip belt snugger straps that pivoted through a sliding loop at the hip belt attachment point, causing the pack to sag downward in response to added weight. The snugger mechanism on this pack did an inadequate job of transferring load from the main body of the pack to the hip belt and preventing packbag sagging in the vertical plane.

    2. Dawn (15 pounds), AT (16 pounds), Aether (16 pounds). The Dawn has a large circumference:torso height ratio (increasing the length of the load moment arm around the spinal plane) and a thin (1″) hip belt that prevents adequate load transfer around the hip bones. The AT pack is a very tall pack that is subject to a greater extent of torso collapse than packs with shorter vertical heights. The Aether hip belt-to-pack attachment point failed to prevent excessive sagging of the packbag in response to weight.

    3. Virga (23 pounds), Subpop/No Frame (27 pounds), Jam (28 pounds). These three packs performed above the acceptable industry standard for frameless pack load carrying capacity (typically, 20 pounds). The Virga is hindered by load sagging resulting from load lifter straps and an unnecessary “detached flap” to which shoulder straps are sewn in. Without these “features”, it could carry a heavier load. Otherwise, the Virga offers unremarkable load carrying features, and is an acceptable performer. The Subpop carries loads well in its frameless mode as a result of its very wide hip belt (5 inches) and padded lumbar region (made of Cordura-based surface contact materials that are “sticky”) that allow the entire hip contact surface area to be used in load transfer to prevent packbag sagging. Finally, the Jam is a narrow, trim-profile pack with well-designed hip belt fins that provided the best load transfer (most resistant to sagging) of all packs that employed webbing belts.

    4. Moonlight (34 pounds). The Moonlight performed significantly better than all other frameless packs in this study. The external pad pocket is placed between the pack’s back panel and the user’s back. Further, and most notable, shoulder strap attachment points and hip belt attachment points to the pack are behind the pad pocket. Consequently, as the shoulder straps and (especially) the hip belt are tightened, the entire load can be compressed against the user’s back. Clearly, this load transfer system is very effective. Subjectively, we observed this system to be very effective even when only the hip belt was tightened, and the shoulder straps were left loose. Unfortunately, the Moonlight suffers from a very short torso length that is a full size or more shorter than conventional industry standards. We hope that Six Moon Designs elects to produce taller packs that are more in line with conventional torso sizing conventions. It should be noted that Six Moon Designs claims that the Moonlight can carry a load of up to 35 pounds. Initially, we viewed this claim with incredulity. Based on the results presented in this study, we cannot dispute this claim. However, the reader must be cautioned that the load carrying capacity that we derived (34 pounds) is based on a user sizing up at least one, and probably two, sizes over Six Moon Designs recommended torso sizes.

    Conclusions

    1. Using a rolled cylinder closed cell foam pad relative to a closed cell foam backpad does not appear to improve load carrying performance of a McHale Subpop without its frame stays. The effects of the rolled cylinder method of packing are unknown for other packs. However, there appears to be no justification that the rolled cylinder method is comparable for resisting torso length collapse relative to twin aluminum stays, thus providing evidence for disputing common user claims that a “rolled cylinder pad is just as good as a frame”.

    2. Four of the eight frameless packs tested herein (excluding the McHale Subpop, which is not designed to be a frameless pack) exceeded conventional expectations of a 20-pound load carrying capacity using a rolled cylinder foam pad technique for improving backpack suspension performance (except the Moonlight, which uses a folded pad back panel).

    3. The suspension system of the Six Moon Designs Moonlight appears to offer substantial increases in frameless backpack load carrying performance relative to packs that employ the rolled cylinder foam pad technique, with a load carrying capacity that was 66% higher than the average load carrying capacity (20.4 lbs, n = 7) of all packs (excluding the Subpop) in this study.

    A Final Note About Pad Type. It should also be noted that differences in the type of pad used in the rolled cylinder technique may influence backpack suspension performance. We have been objectively testing various pad and pack combinations to examine these effects. The most effective combinations have been pads that have the highest friction coefficient between the pad and the pack fabric (e.g., “sticky” pads and “sticky” inner pack fabrics). The reason for this is that the overall load is less likely to “slip” at the pad-pack fabric interface.

    In this study, the best performing pads have been a very sticky version of EVA foam (and also very heavy – with a 2/3 length pad weighing 14 ounces) with a sticky surface combined with polyurethane-coated Cordura pack fabrics. The worst performing combinations have been self-inflating sleeping pads with “slick” outer surfaces combined with packs made with silicone-impregnated nylon fabrics. The most remarkable conclusion from these studies is that for pack weights greater than 15-20 pounds, the pad and pack fabric combination (and thus, the friction coefficient between the two) made little difference in the pack’s load carrying ability.

    Field evaluations and reviews of these packs will appear soon at BackpackingLight.com. Please check our Editorial Calendar to check the publication schedule.

    Simplicity, Harmony, and Opportunity: Freedom Born From an Ultralight Ethic

    “Out of clutter, find simplicity. From discord, find harmony. In the middle of difficulty lies Opportunity” – Albert Einstein’s Three Rules of Work

    This short quote summarizes my philosophy for both life and ultralight backpacking. I take only what I need in order to enjoy the journey. Each piece of gear is simple and light, and is integrated as a component of a harmonious system. Over many years and thousands of trail miles, my needs and wants have been redefined (or eliminated), resulting in a decreasing pack weight. In this constantly evolving process, any difficulty in the journey brings both opportunity and confidence born of hardship.

    My ultralight attitude, developed over time, can be further illustrated by another quote:

    “How many a poor immortal soul have I met well nigh crushed and smothered under its load, creeping down the road of life, pushing before it a barn seventy-five feet by forty, its Augean stables never cleansed, and one hundred acres of land, tillage, mowing, pasture, and wood-lot! The portionless, who struggle with no such unnecessary inherited encumbrances, find it labor enough to subdue and cultivate a few cubic feet of flesh.” – Henry David Thoreau

    The idea Thoreau presents is not to carry anything too big: it just drags us down. Yes, we want “enough” – but it should be just enough. Fewer material goods do not necessarily indicate poverty but rather, a power of personal restraint, which is both a lifestyle and backpacking ethic that leads to freedom. Embracing this philosophy may require an adjustment of attitude for most Americans – who are typically raised to believe that two chickens are needed in every pot, that two cars belong in every garage, and that a home with only one bathroom is substandard.

    My ultralight philosophy demands that I exercise personal power over my choices in the interest of self-sufficiency. I do not borrow gear, food, water, fuel, or guide pages from others. I will not advocate that anyone go to a trail ill-equipped or unprepared because they want to eliminate extra pack weight and figuring that they will come across a good Samaritan or trail magic to bail them out. My goal as an ultralighter is to carry all of my essentials, or learn how to improvise without them. It would not be fair for me to put others at risk or as an object of dependence, obligation or inconvenience, because of my lack of planning! Ultralighters have sometimes been disparaged as ‘moochers’ as evidenced by commentary from some outdoor writers. I feel duty bound to shake that image by never borrowing or accepting anything, except for rare trail magic. On a more practical note, a hiker may not meet another for days – or even weeks, and self-sufficiency is mandatory.

    As a petite woman, I carry clothes that fit me. Nothing is baggy, too large or too long. All can be layered harmoniously for maximum warmth with minimum bulk. It means keeping my body weight down, which has two practical effects: (1) by staying lean, I feel better and can climb hills more easily, and (2) the volume and weight of my pack is reduced because of smaller clothes and sleep systems.

    My shelter is a minimalist, single-wall silnylon structure, just large enough to sit up in, and sleep. I critically analyze each gear item, both for weight and volume, replacing them with substitutes that are smaller and lighter. As an example, my only knife is a five gram cutting tool found at office supply stores, and it has performed admirably for over 5,000 miles.

    My food is adequate and simple, requiring minimal cooking time with less fuel on an ultralight alcohol stove. I utilize town stops by eating a lot of extra calories, and carry about a pound of food per day on the trail. I take advantage of natural daylight, to cook, clean, write or read, and avoid doing anything that requires batteries. The two exceptions are a waterproof watch, and photon light, both still have the same battery after 5,500 miles. I use well-made gear that can be repaired with superglue, electrical tape, or needle and dental floss.

    “…conceding the failures and enjoying the margins of success contribute equally satisfying results in the long run.”

    Ultralight living and backpacking are natural for me. Curiosity and love of personal challenges inspire me to try new ideas. And so, instead of collecting material goods, I collect experiences. Sometimes there is significant discomfort in these new adventures – and conceding the failures and enjoying the margins of success contribute equally satisfying results in the long run.

    The most important piece of gear a backpacker carries is his or her brain. The knowledge you carry in your head can save you many pounds of pack weight, prevent miles of missed trail and wrong turns, give you options and back up plans, and the confidence to press beyond your preconceived emotional, physical, and spiritual limits.

    About the Author

    Carol “Brawny” Wellman is the proprietor of Dancing Light Gear (http://www.trailquest.net/), a manufacturer of ultralight backpacking equipment. She is also the author of My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking (ISBN 0-9728154-0-6, Fire Creek Pass Publications, March 2003), a personal account of her journeys on the Pacific Crest Trail, John Muir Trail, and Appalachian Trail. It details her practical journey from car camper to ultralight backpacker, and a more spiritual journey to personal freedom. Originally from the midwest, Brawny now lives in the Georgia mountains. She spends her non-hiking time designing and sewing ultralight gear, writing, and performing trail maintenance on a section of the AT south of Bly Gap in GA.

    Lightweight Backpacking with Young Children

    Introduction

    Introducing your child to the wonders of nature is one thing­–helping them enjoy themselves while preserving your own sanity on a backpacking trip is quite another.

    Backpacking with kids offers an opportunity for bonding, teaching, and escape from a world littered with too much social stimuli.

    Most parents view backpacking with a child as an arduous, masochistic experience by which Mom carries her screaming infant or drags her whining toddler (or both of them!) up a dusty trail, while Dad shoulders a hundred-pound pack containing gear for the entire family. While this style of family hiking may not lead directly to divorce, it’s certainly going to be unpleasant.

    So, let’s do it a different way: we’d like to offer some ideas and insights for parents that have not yet made the plunge into backpacking with their kids and are still blessed with naiveté. At the same time, maybe we can help those that have already experienced the pain and rage of doing it the hard way. And hopefully, even you moms and dads capable of planning and executing flawless adventures with your kids can extract some tidbits to help you on your next hike. (Note: if you fall into this last category, don’t tell anybody – they won’t believe you).

    Click here to download a copy of a gear list (Adobe PDF format) from an overnight backpacking trip in cold, snowy conditions, taken by Ryan and Chase in October, 2003

    Hiking Considerations

    Hiking Pace

    Infants can’t walk, and letting them crawl to your destination is neither timely nor hygenic. So that means that Mom’s going to carry the baby in a backpack and Dad’s going to shoulder the rest of the gear. Dad may be shocked at the realization that he’s not going to get to carry the same sub-twenty pound pack that he gets to carry on a summer trip with his buddies, but rules are rules! The bottom line: you’re both going to be shouldering some weight, so slow down, take it easy, and lower your mileage expectations.

    Toddlers, on the other hand, can walk. There are two major problems when hiking with toddlers. First, they hike more slowly than adults, and can tire quickly. Second, they have ideas of their own about the route you carefully planned at the kitchen table–distractions like bugs, moss, and maybe even decaying animal carcasses can all cause deviations from your path.

    Our experience is that as a result of these issues, you can only count on hiking about two to four miles per day, a little more for older school-age children or if you are carrying your infant on your back, and perhaps, a little less for preschoolers.

    More important than the number of miles you hike is the amount of time you spend on the trail.

    If your family can walk five or eight miles a day, great! Realistically, however, you probably should try to limit your time on the trail. You don’t want to rush to flee camp in the mornings, and you don’t want to be setting up camp and cooking dinner in the dark. Give your kids the time to enjoy camping and playing in the wilderness, not just hiking in it. A good rule of thumb for summer: spend about four to five hours on the trail, with plenty of trail time built in for breaks and play.

    Lighten your kids’ loads and adhere to lightweight backpacking principles for your own, and your entire family will appreciate it.

    Packs for Parents and Kids

    Face the facts, Dad. You aren’t going to fit your family’s load into the latest 30 liter fastpacking rucksack, nor should you be shouldering all that weight with a frameless pack. But all is not lost. There are plenty of large-enough capacity backpacks that weigh less than four pounds and easily carry a 40-50 pound load. Try a Granite Gear Nimbus Ozone (60 liters and 48 ounces), the GoLite Infinity (50 liters and 37 ounces), or a custom-fitted and made-to-order pack from the McHale Pack Company (50-80 liters at 40-60 ounces).

    When hiking with an infant, Mom will usually carry the baby in a backpack. The most popular models are made by Madden and Kelty and are absurdly heavy at seven to nine pounds. Unfortunately, this remains one of the last uncharted markets for lightweight gear, so your choices are limited to something in the six to eight pound range. Get a baby pack with enough additional capacity for a few extras like diapers, baby wipes, and a water bottle for Mom. Plush models have room for a sleeping bag stowed into a lower compartment, which frees up a lot of space from Dad’s pack for denser (and heavier!) items.

    Toddlers aren’t going to be too enthusiastic about carrying a “fair share” of gear for the family, and you’re not going to be enthused if they poop out a quarter mile from the car and refuse to carry their pack or walk one more step! So, give the little ones a break and set them up with tiny packs like the CamelBak Skeeter, a hydration pack with a 35 ounce capacity ideally suited for preschoolers and kindergartners. For younger school age children, step up to something with some cargo capacity like the CamelBak Scout (35 ounces and 10L cargo). Older kids can graduate to a 20L rucksack and carry their own sleeping gear and clothing with a liter of water and some snacks, usually not to exceed ten pounds.

    The authors’ son, five-year-old Chase, traces the day’s route on his own map.

    Trip Planning and Navigation

    It’s important to involve your children in trip planning. Bring out the maps, show them some photos, and let them select some options (that you have previously screened, of course) that give them some ownership in the itinerary. For toddlers and older kids, destinations are very important– they give the child a sense of accomplishment. Destinations involving water (streams, lakes, or swamps) can save a parent’s sanity by giving the child endless opportunities for exploration of aquatic life, rock throwing targets, and sailboat races (see below). Always remember, of course, that parents must pay special attention to the safety of their children around any water body.

    On the trail, involve your children in navigation decisions. If they know the difference between right and left, then show them trail junctions on the map as you reach them on the trail, and help them figure out the right way to go based on the route (it is helpful to trace your route with a highlighter on the map prior to the trip). As your child reaches the age of five or six, you can begin introducing the use of a compass. Orient the map for them, and help them choose between obvious directions like east and west. Best of all, whether your children know how to use a compass or not, arm them with small compasses on their wrists or around their necks, and they will feel like hikers.

    Inclement Conditions

    When we talk to other parents about backpacking with children, their greatest fear, by a large margin, is always: “What do we do if it rains?!” Prior to backpacking trips, many moms are often glued to the Weather Channel, secretly hoping for a hurricane-class forecast so they can justify cancellation of the trip, rather than face the challenges that come with cold and wet conditions.

    These fears are not irrational. It can be difficult enough staying warm and dry in inclement conditions without having to worry about your kids. Parents’ protective instincts instill a sense of responsibility to make sure your kids remain warm and dry, which can be very challenging. In this section, we offer some advice to deal with wet and cold conditions, as well as the midday heat of summer.

    My Favorite Things About Backpacking

    An Interview with Chase Jordan

    RJ: Chase, I need to ask you some questions about an article we’re writing for BackpackingLight.com.

    Chase: Oh.

    RJ: I want to chat with you about lightweight backpacking.

    Chase: OK. Are you going to take my picture and show the Internet?

    RJ: Sure, buddy. Whatever you want.

    Chase: OK. I want it to be a BIG picture.

    Chase Jordan, at the age of three, enjoying wilderness in the Gallatin National Forest on a backpacking trip that brought freezing temperatures, constant rain, and a little snow!

    RJ: How old are you, Chase?

    Chase: I’m five.

    RJ: Do you like backpacking?

    Chase: Oh yes!

    RJ: What is your favorite place to go in the wilderness?

    Chase: Yellowstone National Park. I love to see buffalo by my tent.

    RJ: What is your favorite thing to do when you go backpacking?

    Chase: Roast marshmallows!

    RJ: What do you like to do when it’s raining?

    Chase: Get in the tent. I like to read stories and play with my trucks in the tent with my Dad.

    RJ: Do you have a rain jacket?

    Chase: I have a poncho, but I don’t really like it. It’s black. My dad made it. Black was all he had. I like my winter snow coat the best. It’s red.

    RJ: Do you like it when it snows on backpacking trips?

    Chase: Yeah. I like making snowmen and igloos!

    RJ: What’s your favorite food that you like to eat while hiking?

    Chase: Let’s see here…peanuts and raisins, I think.

    RJ: What’s your favorite dinner food when you are in camp?

    Chase: Macaroni and cheese, with no hot sauce.

    RJ: Do you carry a backpack?

    Chase: Yeah – a water backpack.

    RJ: What kind of stuff is in your backpack?

    Chase: Water and stuff. But I like to carry one of my dad’s trekking poles – they’re really, super light – and my whistle around my neck – that’s my favorite thing to put around my neck because the scarf my mom and dad make me wear is way too itchy.

    RJ: Wow, all that stuff sounds heavy. Is it heavy?

    Chase: Yeah but my dad carries all the really heavy stuff like the tent, and food and, ummm…oh yeah, my trucks.

    RJ: I suppose you think you need some new lightweight backpacking gear, right?

    Chase: Oh yes! I would like a new water pack – a big one. I’m going to put water in it, and also, my snacks, my notepad (I bring just a little one), and maybe a can of pop. Does a new pack cost a lot of money?

    RJ: It depends, buddy. You see, there are Spectra fabrics that tend to be rather expensive due to the cost of fiber construction, difficulty in cutting and sewing, etc. And then, you have ultralight silnylon, which is very slippery, and that can drive up the cost. Or, you can go to a new high tech X-Pac from Dimension-Polyant that offers unparalleled rip resistance and very good abrasion resistance at a paltry four ounces a yard. But I think you need a custom McHale, which can run upwards of $600 by the time you add shovel pockets, ski slots, fanny-compatible top pockets, multiple frames for different loads, and several hip belts to suit a particular trip style – and – you may want to consider a sewn-in hydration pocket rather than a removable one since—

    Chase: Do they have red ones?

    RJ: Oh, yes!

    Dealing with Rain

    Hiking in the rain can be a wonderful experience for a child. Rain brings out wildlife of all sorts, from big game to slimy worms. But being wet, and especially, being wet and cold, can be a miserable experience for a child. A little preparation and an understanding of a child’s low tolerance for discomfort can improve everyone’s disposition dramatically.

    A rain poncho made from silnylon is an easy homemade sewing project, costs less than $10, and works great for kids.

    First, dress to get wet. Combined with a fleece balaclava and some waterproof mittens, a hooded poncho (nylon is far more durable than plastic) worn over a fleece jacket and long underwear, can keep a child warm and dry for hours. On the bottoms, synthetic long underwear and waterproof or water-resistant pants are usually sufficient. For the feet, a pair of thick wool socks for warmth and some water-resistant (not mesh) shoes are a far better alternative than rubber boots, especially while hiking.

    Try to encourage your children to minimize their natural “sprint-and-stop” technique for hiking. Hiking slowly and continuously will minimize sweating and the subsequent chilling that results when taking a break. If you are taking longer breaks in inclement conditions– a lunch break or simply to wait out a storm–consider setting up a tent or tarp, and even the child’s sleeping bag, to give them a warm and safe refuge that minimizes their discomfort.

    When camping, nothing provides better refuge from the elements, including cold, and rain, than a tent. Most children (and parents) feel safer and more secure when surrounded by fabric, and during an intense storm with high winds, a tent will keep your little campers happy campers.

    Above all, remember that, unlike adults, small children shouldn’t be expected to just “deal with it” when the weather turns bad and they become uncomfortable. You bear 100% of the responsibility to keep them warm, dry, and comfortable.

    Dealing with Cold

    Dealing with cold requires that your child have proper clothing and a warm sleeping bag. Consistent with lightweight backpacking principles, there is no reason not to combine the two while sleeping to take advantage of available insulation at the lightest weight. We’ve come up with a recommended list of clothing and sleep gear that will keep most children warm in conditions down to freezing during the summer.

    • Clothing worn while hiking: Supplex nylon shirt (long sleeve) and long pants, to protect them from sun, brush, and wind; wool socks with comfortable shoes; wide-brimmed hat for sun protection; sunglasses.
    • Base layer: lightweight synthetic long underwear, top and bottoms (consider doubling up on these two items if your kids have bed-wetting challenges or you are expecting very cold or wet conditions).
    • Mid layers: 200 or 300 weight fleece jacket; consider 100-200 weight fleece pants for cold conditions.
    • Additional mid layer: this is an extra layer that gives you the flexibility to adjust warmth according to expected temperatures and can range from a 100-weight fleece vest to a high-loft synthetic insulating jacket.
    • Outer layer: nylon rain jacket or poncho with water-resistant (paired with a poncho) or waterproof (paired with a jacket) pants.
    • Sleeping bag: synthetic bag (e.g., Polarguard, PrimaLoft) with at least two inches of loft for conditions down to freezing. Our choice: the Integral Designs Assiniboine.

    If temperatures drop dramatically, parents can further increase the comfort of their kids by using their sleeping bags as quilts and sharing body heat.

    Dealing with Heat

    One experience that may have a higher misery factor than dealing with a child that is cold and wet is dealing with one that is hot, tired, thirsty, and cranky!

    One item you can arm your child with is a hydration bladder, complete with a hose and bite valve (for safety reasons, be sure to follow manufacturer recommendations about age appropriateness). Kids love to drink out of their own container, and if they carry it themselves, you can be assured that they will get plenty to drink. Add some flavor to that drink, such as pre-sweetened Kool-Aid, Crystal Light, or Flavors-2-Go drops, and they’ll thank you for it. Not a fan of sweetened drinks at home? Make an exception while backpacking. The additional calories and flavors motivating your child to remain hydrated might far outweigh the disadvantages of the sugar they provide.

    Above, we recommended long sleeve shirts and long pants for clothing. We are big advocates of keeping your kids’ skin exposure to the harmful rays of UV light at a bare minimum, especially in the thin air of the mountains. If temperatures are too hot and your child is uncomfortable wearing this type of clothing, then maybe you should consider shadier trails, cloudier weather, or some hardcore sunscreen, frequently applied. Regardless of your hiking clothing choices, make sure your child has a wide-brimmed sun hat and a pair of sunglasses.

    Some other tips for hiking in the heat:

    • Let them cool off in a creek or lakeside at midday.
    • Arm family members with spray bottles or squirt guns and have occasional “water fights” along the trail – getting your clothing and skin wet will aid evaporative cooling.

    Cooking, Food, Water, and Hygiene

    Meal Planning and Cooking

    One of the great challenges of backpacking with kids is ensuring that they consume plenty of nutritional calories. For anything shorter than week-long excursions, place more emphasis on calories than nutrition. Like adults, children need to maintain steady caloric intake to offset their daily activity and fuel their metabolic engines.

    Only experience will tell you about quantities of food to pack, types of foods your child will eat on the trail (a safe bet is to bring them the things they like at home as well), and timing of meals. Emphasize frequent snacks rather than three squares served rigidly at 8 am, noon, and 6 pm.

    For parents new to hiking with children, a good rule of thumb for quantity is to bring 12-16 oz food per day (dry weight) for toddlers 3-6, 20 oz/day for young children age 7-10, and 24 oz/day (sometimes more if your child is a prodigious eater) for children in rapid growth spurts that commonly occur between the ages of 11 and 13. All bets are off for teenagers, who can seemingly fast for days and then eat three pounds of food at the drop of a hat.

    As far as types of food to pack, err on the side of maximum variety rather than gamble on the improbability that your child will be able to extract his entire caloric needs from a huge bag of gorp. Likewise, as much as you want your children to consume organic foods, whole grains, and hormone-free dry milk, cut them some slack and toss in some red licorice or Jolly Ranchers – they will thank you for it with their wide eyes and you will thank yourself for their good morale.

    And as far as timing is concerned, go with small meals for breakfast and dinner, with plenty of variety snacks that the child can freely access throughout the day. Children burn calories in spurts. Likewise, they tend to eat in spurts.

    Parents with infants have to deal with other issues. Breastfeeding moms have it best (although some may argue) – ready to eat food that doesn’t have to be packed! For infants eating soft foods, parents are limited to baby foods sold in very heavy jars. For short trips, these foods can be repackaged into small plastic containers, which are far lighter. For maximum weight savings, repackage the foods in zip-closure bags (such as O.P. Saks), but keep in mind that repackaging baby foods compromises their sterility and shouldn’t be practiced for trips longer than a weekend in warm temperatures.

    For bottle-fed babies, parents have two options: washable bottles or bottles with disposable liners. Bottle “cages” with enough disposable liners for a weekend trip are lighter than bottles by 50%. Better yet, disposable liners can be pre-filled with formula or dry milk at home, so mealtime – and cleanup – is about as simple as can be.

    Water Purification and Hydration

    We tend to be more cautious about the quality of water that our children drink than the quality of water we drink. Children have immune systems that tend to be more susceptible to foreign organisms, simply because of their lack of previous exposure to them. Parents should not allow their children to drink untreated water in the wilderness.

    The safest and most effective form of water treatment technology for immuno-compromised patients continues to be ceramic element filtration. Only two companies make water filters that offer uncompromised performance: MSR (cf. the WaterWorks II filter) and Katadyn (cf. Pocket Filter). Combined with low doses of chlorine dioxide (cf. Aqua Mira) on post-filtered water, one ends up with water quality that often exceeds that coming out of your tap at home. We recommend this form of treatment for infants.

    As children get older, their immune response strengthens. Thus, chemical treatment alone may be sufficient in mountain areas with good (low organic and silt content) wilderness water quality. Our recommendation is Aqua Mira (chlorine dioxide) over iodine-based solutions. It has greater efficacy against bacteria and lower incidence of harmful byproduct creation. Both chlorine bleach and iodine can form these byproducts (some of them carcinogenic) through oxidation of organic matter.

    Many parents are lured into buying so-called water purification products that are promoted by the health food industry. These are sold under the description of “stabilized oxygen” and marketed under the premise that they are “chemical-free treatment alternatives for safe drinking water.” After extensive research, we have been unable to find any reasonable scientific evidence from a credible research institution supporting a claim that they are appropriate for wilderness water quality treatment, and cannot recommend them as a viable water treatment alternative, especially for immuno-compromised patients, infants, or children.

    Toilet and Personal Hygiene

    Diapers. Parents of infants are often stricken with backcountry diaper terror when faced with the prospect of family backpacking. In reality, however, dealing with diapers can be a rather simple affair.

    The choice between cloth and disposable diapers is the primary issue. Cloth diapers require washing, rinsing, and drying – an often problematic and time consuming task when faced with your own underwear – not to mention a pair that’s been covered in fecal matter! It doesn’t take long to realize that the time required to properly deal with washing a dirty cloth diaper while minimizing the environmental impact of disposing of the wash water is worth it only for those parents that ascribe to a stringent philosophy that for one reason or another prevents them from purchasing and throwing away disposables.

    For us, the choice was a matter of convenience and hygiene. Fecal matter is simply cat-holed like your own, and then the disposable diapers are set out for a few hours each day to allow moisture to evaporate, thus reducing their weight. Transport is accomplished by placing the diapers in an odor-proof plastic bag with a secure zip-closure (we recommend 12×15 O.P. Saks from Watchful Eye Designs). The process of using disposables in the backcountry is a no-mess, no-fuss, low-impact, and healthy process for both baby and parents.

    Trepidations of Wilderness Toilets. As children get older, they get to pee and poop like us big kids. For our son (and we are told, for most boys), there is little trepidation involved in letting it rip in the backcountry. Dad and son can make it competitive with distance contests. And, the prospect of pooping in a hole that you dug with your foot, toy backhoe, or sand shovel, is high on the list of very cool things to do as a young boy.

    We are told by other parents, however, that some boys and many girls experience a bit of performance anxiety when it comes to wilderness toileting. For these kids, some parents have even resorted to bringing potty chairs with a real toilet seat and plastic bag for the catch basin. At up to four pounds apiece, such chairs aren’t high on the list of things lightweight backpacking parents like to bring into the backcountry. The alternative: some psychological skill in dealing with children, and a whole lot of patience. Barring rewards of chewable candy by the pound and promises of extra toys at Christmas, we’ve heard parents having good success by doing the side by side thing with Mom or Dad, which may give rise to a new axiom: “the family that poops together, stays together.”

    The Magic of Purell. There is an increasing body of evidence that suggests that more incidents of gastrointestinal illness in the backcountry can be attributed to poor hygiene than to inadequate water treatment. We would logically infer, then, that children are more susceptible to illnesses resulting from poor hygiene than adults, simply because hygiene is not ingrained in a child’s daily habit! Consequently, we recommend that parents frequently ensure that their child’s face and hands are clean, especially after using the toilet and before meals. While soap and water is most effective at removing dirt, alcohol hand gels (cf. “Purell” brand) provide more effective disinfection of microorganisms, can be used anywhere (even in the absence of water), and air dry effectively. Most parents will find some combination of washing with soap and using alcohol hand gels useful. We use alcohol during the day, and then have a hands-and-face (and sometimes, whole body) wash while having access to water in camp in the evening.

    Baby Wipes, Washcloths, and other Towels. Baby wipes are a godsend to parents with infants. For diaper changing, wiping up food messes, dealing with spit-up, and cleaning up other liquefied masses well-known to baby-parents, moist baby wipes are an ideal solution to cleanup. Because they are water-saturated, however, they tend to be heavy –lighten the load by repackaging them in a zip-closure plastic bag. The upside is that they can be dried or burned while on the trail, and thus, can be considered a consumable. The biggest advantage of baby wipes are that they can be treated as a disposable, and thus, are consistent with good hygiene practices.

    Dry wash towels that can be moistened and used for more rigorous cleanup chores can also be useful. Fortunately, those made of viscose are very light and dry quickly. Check out the Pack-Towl line from Cascade Designs, or our favorites, the 0.5-ounce ultralight towels available from Light Load Towels.

    Shelter Considerations

    A tent can go a long way to improving family morale in inclement conditions.

    Tent, Tarp, or Both?

    Most parents,even those who normally practice what we consider lightweight backpacking techniques, would never consider taking their kids into the backcountry without a tent. Let’s take a closer look at the rationale for this decision and assess whether or not tarp camping is something that can be appropriate for parents with young children.

    Parents possess a natural protective instinct that engages whenever cold, wet, windy, or snowy weather comes within miles of the warmth of a car heater. Consequently, the walls of a tent provide a sense of security and home for a backpacking family that gives them a tiny environment in which they can be safe, warm, dry, and content. Having backpacked with our son in both tents and tarps, I can recommend without reservation that a lightweight tent should be the first choice for beginning parents or parents of infants and/or small children traveling in backcountry areas with the potential for foul weather.

    Tarp Camping with Kids

    Unless you have an exceptional level of skill and experience tarp camping yourself, please do not consider subjecting infants and young children to the rigors of exposure to wind, blowing rain, and drifting snow while camping in a tarp. If you – and your kids – are tarp camping aficionados (and we certainly are) do so in the midst of a fair weather forecast, with the opportunity to bail out readily available. There is no worse misery while camping with kids than having them be cold, wet, and cranky because wind and rain are blowing into the protective space that should provide complete comfort and shelter.

    A small tarp set up as a tent porch keeps the tent more livable as well as provide some space to play, cook, store gear, or stretch, while it’s raining.

    A Small Tarp for Refuge

    During prolonged periods of inclement weather, both parents and kids can go a little “shacky-wacky” in the confines of a tent. A light tarp, brought as a supplement to the primary shelter, can provide some fresh air during rainy periods, as well as some refuge for cooking or playing. We have often brought a 5×7 silnylon tarp in addition to our lightweight tent when we knew there would be a good chance for foul weather. Set up as a vestibule across the front of our tent, it served as an ideal “porch” for refuge from the rain.

    Sleeping Pads

    Some naïve parents believe that a sleeping pad no thinner than a toddler bed is required for backcountry camping. Common sense, however, dictates that children lose heat to the ground similarly to their bigger counterparts, and that no additional insulation from conductive heat loss to the ground surface is necessarily needed. In fact, there is some scientific evidence that supports a higher level of cold tolerance in children than in adults – attributed to something akin to a survival mechanism. For the lightweight backpacking family, this is all good news. Further, smaller pads are needed for smaller people, so there is weight savings to be made in this department as well!

    The choice between inflatable sleeping pads (cf. ThermaRest brand pads) and closed cell foam pads is more a matter of parent’s desire for children’s comfort than a matter of safety or warmth. We tend to compromise between the two, using a thicker (1/2”) closed cell foam pad for our son, after learning that nighttime migratory behavior inherent in children means that they easily slip off the slick nylon surfaces of inflatable mattresses. You can alleviate some slippage by adding “stripes” or “dots” of McNett SilNet or SeamGrip, but such measures are not likely going to arrest the migration of your child throughout the night unless she sleeps between you.

    Camping Activities

    Stockpiling an arsenal of “lightweight” activities to keep children busy in camp is not as hard as it sounds. Parents often think that they have to “bring their home to the wilderness” by packing a multitude of toys, favorite stories, and handheld games for the purpose of ensuring constant entertainment for their children. For most backpacking families, however, children are often entranced by what nature has to offer and are creative enough on their own (perhaps with some parent facilitation) to make the outdoors an ideal playground sans props.

    Collecting leaves, bugs, and rocks has probably entertained more children visiting the backcountry than any other activity. As children grow older, you have an opportunity to teach them about the natural world that can help them appreciate their collecting habit even more.

    Looking for animal tracks is one of our favorite activities, and a plaster of Paris cast kit weighs only a few ounces and provides a memento from the trip. After the plaster has dried, it can even be painted in the backcountry–or you can wait until you get home.

    If you are near running water, a great way to spend creative time is to make sailboats from natural materials. We sometimes bring along some extra string or wire and a few 6-piece sections from an egg carton to serve as the hull. This activity can occupy our son for hours, as he builds a boat and sends it down the “rushing” waters of a tiny brook.

    For school age children, photography can be a great way for a child to record their own trip. Combined with their own paper journal and pencil, encouraging them to write about, draw, and photograph their memories helps them appreciate their backpacking adventure more fully. Disposable cameras and cheap, hand-me-down digital cameras are our lightweight favorites for kids.

    Fishing a lake or creek in camp that is filled with mountain brook or cutthroat trout, of course, can require little more gear than a stick, a six-foot section of line, and a bushy fly. The simplicity of such a fishing kit means that young children can operate it by themselves, and you won’t be burdened carrying large amounts of heavy fishing gear if your child loses interest.

    We still love to read to our son when away from home. We often let him bring his choice of one book, and we supplement that with a small field guide to local flora and fauna. During the day, we can use the field book to identify flowers, insects, or birds, and then before bedtime, review what we saw by looking at pictures in the book (and often, redrawing them in his own “notebook”).

    Campfires, of course, provide great security for children. Where permitted, and when conditions warrant, a campfire before bedtime helps the family unwind from a long day, relaxing, sharing their favorite things about the trip, stargazing, and perhaps roasting a few marshmallows.

    Safety Considerations

    Safety need not be compromised while taking your children into the backcountry, and thus, lightweight equipment is just as applicable for backpacking with kids as it is for backpacking with adults. However, safety must always be considered first. Don’t use the same standards for safety with kids that you would use for yourself.

    Preparation for inclement weather is perhaps the most important consideration when backpacking with kids, because you, as parents, are solely responsible for your child’s safety and appropriate use of their clothing. Parents having no experience dealing with inclement weather on their own should not gain those first experiences with their children without a suitable “bailout” option (e.g., backyard or car camping).

    The Whistle

    Arm your child with a loud whistle, worn at all times on a lanyard around her neck, and instruct her on how to use it. We have ingrained in our son what it means to be lost (when you can’t find Mom or Dad), and what to do: stop, blow your whistle three times, and listen for a response from our whistle – then repeat.

    Bears aren’t the only animals to worry about. Bug-proofing your children is important to their enjoyment as well. You also have to keep an eye out for ticks, poison plants, and human-habituated rodents.

    Bear Country

    Hiking in grizzly country with young children who cannot defend themselves – or are unable to defend you – is not recommended. Grizzlies are simply too unpredictable. When is a child old enough to hike in grizzly country? This question is impossible to answer, as there are plenty of ignorant adults out there that are unprepared for hiking in grizzly country! Our rule for hiking with others that want to bring their kids into grizzly country: both parents and children have to be well-practiced in the use of bear spray, and the parents have to be able to trust their child’s skills enough to defend THEM in case of an attack. In our experience, the age at which this occurs is usually between 12 and 15.

    Backyard and Car Camping Practice

    The best way for families to learn how to backpack is to get out and do it. When reducing your pack weight and evaluating lighter gear, you may want to practice using it, especially in inclement conditions, while car camping or in your backyard. Most children who enjoy backcountry camping get a kick out of backyard and car camping as well, and they offer the family an additional outlet for outdoor enjoyment without the commitment and logistics associated with entering the backcountry.

    Conclusion

    This article cannot hope to deal with all of the issues involved in backpacking with young children. We hope that we’ve offered you a framework that encourages you to introduce your kids to the backcountry using lightweight gear and techniques that do not sacrifice your family’s safety. Further, we are confident that with experience, you will develop your own style and make smart decisions about your gear.

    Our final rule of thumb for hiking with kids: know when to bail. Whether you are camping in your backyard, out of the trunk of your car, or are at 10,000 feet in the Sierra wilderness, you’re bound to encounter conditions, situations, weather, and environment that contribute to the demise of morale. If nobody’s having a good time, go home, regroup, and try again. Family backpacking should be fun. Lighter weight gear can make it even more fun – especially the hiking part. But the key is to enjoy the wilderness together, not just endure it.

    Mike Martin

    Longtime BPL Forum contributor Mike Martin joined the Backpacking Light staff in 2006 as Sleeping Systems Section Editor. Mike holds a Bachelors Degree in Engineering and currently teaches Engineering and Physics at North Idaho College. If pressed, he will confess to heavyweight backpacking “a long time ago” in the Sierras. But, inspired by Ray Jardine’s Beyond Backpacking, he started lightweight backpacking in 2000 and has been a lightweight proponent ever since. In the winter, he enjoys backcountry skiing and snowshoeing in the Inland Northwest. In the summer, he switches to backpacking and fly-fishing, often accompanied by his young son.

    His passion for lightweight backpacking revolves around the gear as much as the trips. He is actively involved in homemade stove, sleep system and shelter design and is always looking for “optimal” gear – even if it means tearing apart and rebuilding perfectly good commercial products.

    Photo Courtesy of James Hannibal