Introduction
In this test report, I investigate the effectiveness of backflushing and storage protocols to evaluate the relative differences in maintaining the performance of the Platypus Quickdraw, Sawyer Squeeze, and Katadyn Befree hollow-fiber membrane filters.

A variety of tests and protocols were performed, including filtration of dirty water with a moderate level of turbidity and backflushing efficacy. In addition, I look at how integrating a long-term storage protocol using citric acid and chlorine dioxide might affect filter lifespan. Finally, several filters were subjected to a six-month field study and evaluated at the end based on backflushing and storage protocols used to maintain their flow rates.
Because flow rate is also proportional to the transmembrane pressure of water across the hollow-fiber membrane, the rate of water flow through a squeeze filter is highly variable and depends on how hard a user squeezes the water bottle. More squeeze pressure equates to a higher flow rate. Because of this, evaluating maximum flow rates through a squeeze filter is challenging and would require a constant-pressure delivery of water that mimics the pressure exerted by a user’s hands squeezing the bottle attached to the filter. Therefore, to maintain a controllable and repeatable test, flow rates here are measured by passive flow provided by the gravitational forces of the hydrostatic head above the filter in the absence of a vacuum in the feed bottle. We use the technique presented previously by Jon Fong to determine the current state of a filter’s capacity, i.e., the effective filtration media surface area available (and not clogged), which is directly proportional to the flow rate of water through a hollow-fiber membrane filter.
Technology Overview
The water filtration technology used in the Platypus Quickdraw, Sawyer Squeeze, and Katadyn Befree is based on hollow-fiber membrane filtration. Hollow fibers are made when a molten polymer is pulled through an extruder, forming a very thin, hollow tube. The walls of the tube are porous. Contaminants are filtered from the water when dirty water is injected into the center of the tube (the hollow part of the fiber), and clean water percolates through the fiber walls to the outside of the tube (inside-out filtration) under pressure. Conversely, hollow-fiber filtration systems can be operated as outside-in systems. All filters discussed in this test report operate as outside-in systems.
Various combinations of wrapping, sealing (gluing), and fusing one end or the other of the fibers and/or interstitial voids (the spaces between the walls of the fibers) result in the mode of filtration (outside-in vs. inside-out) and govern how water flows through the filter.
In the filters tested here, a parallel bundle of individual hollow fibers is arranged in a “U”-shaped configuration and bound in a non-porous resin matrix at the outflow where the ends of the fibers terminate.


The resin is then machined at the outflow end to expose the openings of the fibers. This assembly is surrounded by the filter housing, which provides a seal between the inner wall of the housing and the resin. In these outside-in configurations, water is squeezed into the void space that exists outside the fibers, percolates through the fiber walls into the inner tube of the fibers, and exits out the tubes bound by the resin-end as clean water.

As with any water filter, undissolved solids in raw water can absorb or accumulate in the filter medium and result in slow flow rates. In hollow-fiber membranes, debris adsorbs onto the outer surfaces of the hollow fibers (since it employs an outside-in flow configuration). That makes it quite easy to clean and allows backflushing to be an effective method of restoring flow. Hollow-fiber filters that are based on inside-out flow patterns clog easily and are very difficult to clean because particles fill up the inner tubes of the fibers and are very difficult to flush out. An inside-out configuration would be totally inappropriate for backcountry use.
There are three primary mechanisms by which a filter clogs:
- sediment and other undissolved solids adsorb to the filter membrane;
- bacteria grow on the surface of the filter membrane into slimes (biofilms) that are very difficult to remove;
- dissolved solids create calcification-type deposits on the surface of the filter membrane that are resistant to dissolution after the filter medium dries.
Shaking and backflushing frequently can mitigate all three of these factors to some extent because the more sediment you can remove from a filter, the less surface area there is for bacteria to adhere to, and dissolved sediments to calcify upon.
All that to say: backflush regularly and frequently as a prophylactic measure, not just as a reactive measure.
Test Description
Three squeeze-style hollow-fiber membrane filters were selected for this study: Platypus Quickdraw, Sawyer Squeeze, and Katadyn Befree. Their specifications are outlined in the following table.
| field weight | flow rate* | cartridge life* | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Platypus Quickdraw | 2.4 oz (68 g) | 3.0 liters/minute | 1,000 liters |
| Sawyer Squeeze | 3.4 oz (96 g) | 1.7 liters/minute | 100,000 liters |
| Katadyn Befree | 1.6 oz (45 g) | 2.0 liters/minute | 1,000 liters |
Table Notes:
- Flow rate and cartridge life are specifications provided by the manufacturer and represent maximum values under ideal conditions.
- Weights denoted are “field weights” measured by the author for cartridges that have been fully wetted, and then shaken dry. Weights include the filter cartridge/housing and spout caps but no other filter accessories.
Two series of side-by-side tests were performed: a bench study and a field study. They are described below.
Bench Study
This study was performed indoors at room temperature with cold tap water unless otherwise noted. All filtration was performed passively (no squeezing). The following treatments and tests were performed in series:
- A filter was primed by filtering 4 liters of water and then submerged overnight to fully wet the filter medium.
- The flow rate of the filter (Q_new) was measured using the procedure described by Fong.
- Two liters of dirty water collected from the field were passed through the filter. The dirty water was collected from a silty stream containing a mixture of coarse inorganic sediments (generally 50 to 200 microns in diameter) and fine inorganic and organic sediments (generally 5 to 50 microns in diameter) that remained in suspension after 10 minutes of settling.
- The flow rate of the filter (Q_dirty) was measured again.
- The filter was backflushed with 2 liters of cold tap water using a soft bottle with hand-squeeze pressures as high as possible.
- The flow rate of the filter (Q_backflushed) was measured again.
In the bench study, two replicate filters were used from each brand. Reported results represent the averages of measured values. The coefficient of variation (CV) in all measurements between replicates was less than 6% unless otherwise noted.
Field Study
Six filters were tested side-by-side over 90+ use-days. Backcountry use included day hikes, overnight, and multi-day (up to 8 days) backpacking trips in the Snowy, Laramie, and Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming, and Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado.
One replicate of each filter type was subjected to the exact same filtration conditions, backflushing protocols, and storage treatments (citric acid and chlorine dioxide, described below). In addition, additional replicate filters were subjected to the exact same filtration conditions as the others, but were only backflushed between trips, not during trips, and were stored without the citric acid and chlorine dioxide storage treatments.
Water sources included both clear and turbid natural sources (stream and lake water). I carried a calibrated turbidity meter and a pocket microscope with me and was able to categorize these water sources as follows:
1. Clear stream water above the treeline, low concentrations of primarily inorganic sediments (< 5 NTU).
2. Turbid stream water above the treeline with moderate concentrations of primarily inorganic (granitic) sediments resulting from spring snowmelt (10 to 100 NTU).
3. Clear stream water below the treeline, low to moderate concentrations of primarily organic sediments containing debris from the decay of forest litter (< 20 NTU).
4. Turbid lake water below the treeline, low to moderate concentrations of primarily organic sediments and suspended solids containing algae and debris from the decay of organic plants (20 to 50 NTU).
5. Turbid stream water below the treeline in a recent wildfire burn area, moderate to high concentrations of primarily inorganic fine sediments and suspended solids containing fine clays resulting from debris slides (200 to 500 NTU).
No prefiltering was performed, but all water sources were allowed to settle for a few minutes prior to filtering to improve the clarity of the decant and minimize the risk of fouling the filter with large-diameter sediments.
After each filtration session (defined as a single point in time where water was actively filtered, e.g., a water break at a stream during a hike or collecting water in camp for dinner), all filters were backflushed with 0.5 liters of clean (filtered) water at high (squeeze) pressures, shaken dry, and stored out of direct sunlight (to minimize heating and biofilm growth).
At the end of each trip, filters were subjected to a cleaning and storage protocol as follows:
- Filters were backflushed at a high squeeze pressure with 2 liters of cold tap water.
- Filters were forward-flushed with 0.25 liters of a 5% citric acid solution and rested for 30 minutes, then flushed with 0.5 liters of cold water. This treatment removes calcified organic deposits such as magnesium and calcium salts that may form when filtering hard waters normally found in the Mountain West.
- Filters were forward flushed with 0.25 liters of a double-concentrated solution of Aquamira, rested for two to four hours, and then flushed with 0.5 liters of cold water. This treatment is designed to disinfect bacterial biofilms which may foul the filter membranes. The cold water flushing after the Aquamira is designed to remove traces of chlorine-based oxidizers which are known to accelerate aging of polymeric filter media.
- Filters were stored in cool, dark environments and never subjected to freezing temperatures or high shock loads due to dropping, etc.
- At both the beginning and end of the field study, flow rates were measured as described in steps 1 and 2 of the Bench Study above. These flow rates are reported as Q_new and Q_used respectively. The values represent the averages of three successive flow rate measurements.
Test Results
Measured Flow Rates of New Filters
The following table reports the average passive (gravity-only) and active (maximum squeeze pressure by me) flow rates measured on a minimum of three brand new filters. The reported rates represent the averages for each filter (CV < 6% for passive flow measurements and < 10% for active flow measurements).
| Q_new | passive flow (L/min) | active flow (L/min) |
|---|---|---|
| Platypus Quickdraw | 0.82 | 2.55 |
| Sawyer Squeeze | 0.58 | 2.41 |
| Katadyn Befree | 0.94 | 3.04 |
Measured Flow Rates of Filters Used in the Field
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Discussion
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How Effective are Backflushing and Storage Practices for Squeeze Filters
Great report Ryan. Can you share the method you used to backflush the BeFree? I have not been backflushing mine because I was under the impression it would damage the filter. Although it seems like with your testing and performing an integrity check it should be fine. I’d like to come up with a method to do so without requiring me to bring a syringe with me.
Great article. Â These kinds of filters have a lot of value in that they are small, light and relatively cheap for their function. Â IMO, they should be treated as disposable items and replaced frequently. Â Use them in relative clean water, carry chemical treatment as a backup and replace often (1-2 seasons, YMMV). Â Why trust a filter with 5 seasons of use? Â My 2 cents.
My compliments of this article. REAL data rather than marketing spin (as you mentioned).
Cheers
Is there a reliable DIY test to check the integrity of such a filter to ensure the sub-micron performance? I know you aren’t supposed to let one freeze, but there are other modes of failure.
Super-reliable? Probably not.
But if you measure the flow rate under gravity 9oe no squeeze), you may be able to see if there has been a sudden increase, which could mean a leak.
Cheers
Katadyn and Platypus both cite how to integrity check their filters. Sawyer does not but I imagine a similar test would work for it. Check their manuals but the tests are essentially to fully wet the filters then try to force air thru the filter. If air is able to pass through it implies a ruptured filter element. I don’t know if the direction really matters but Katadyn tells you to blow from the clean side thru the dirty side and Platypus tells you to squeeze air from the dirty bag thru to the clean side. The test is able to be done in the field.
DIY test for filter integrity?  There is an old phrase : “Slim and None, and Slim left town”.  You are taking about a 0.1 micron filter.
here is a blurb from Sawyer- The MINI filter removes 7 log (99.99999%) of all bacteria (like salmonella) as well as other harmful bacteria which causes cholera and E. coli and 6 log (99.9999%) of all protozoa such as giardia and cryptosporidium. These removal rates equal or exceed other filter options. EPA guidelines allow ten times more protozoa left in the water than Sawyer MINI filters allow. The MINI also filters out 100% of microplastics.
I think Zack is right if you are looking for a ‘large’ rupture.
I think Jon is right about the chances of pushing air thru an intact filter.
Cheers
Sawyer recommends using a mild chlorine bleach solution to sanitize for storage; you recommend Aqua Mira. Sawyer suggest vinegar to help remove calcification; you suggest citric acid. I’m curious how and why you came to the conclusion that your methods are better. Thanks.
I have some tests that reveal damage to the filter membranes in the presence of bleach that didn’t occur with Aquamira. Nothing major, but it’s noticeable on micrographs and I imagine it’s going to decrease filter life.
I used to use vinegar in my Sawyer, but then started seeing some weird gunk come out of my filter, so I tore it apart and it looked like the vinegar might have been dissolving the glues in there? So I switched to citric acid. YMMV, and that didn’t happen again. I didn’t spend much time investigating that, so don’t know exactly what happened or why it happened w/vinegar and not citric acid.
Also, in principle: chlorine dioxide can penetrate a biofilm polysaccharide matrix and dissolve that matrix more effectively than chlorine bleach. Bleach tends to oxidize some of the matrix compounds on the outer layers of the biofilm, and bacteria down at the surface remain protected. This is a well-known mechanism of biofilm protection in the presence of bleach.
Terrific article, and for me at least, one of the most useful in recent memory. I also see the error in my ways of not performing proper post trip maintenance on my filters. Thank you.
good article, thanks
one thing mentioned previously is that if you have hard water, and add chlorine, and leave that in your filter, it can form calcium deposits. So, in an attempt to prevent biological growth, you can clog the filter from calcium deposits. Maybe leave the bleach solution in the filter for a while, then rinse out with clear water.
and, people use CLR to clear calcium deposits. Some acid mixture.
Ok, so I had to come back and report on my results. I have a BeFree that I’ve used minimally for three seasons. If I’ve filtered 50 liters I’d be shocked. After wetting, the flow rate was very low and I worried about bursting the bag from the pressure I was exerting. Not having any citric acid, I mixed a 50% solution of white vinegar and swirled for 5 minutes. Then, I used spa chlorine, which is neither hypo nor chlorine dioxide but it’s what I had available. Swish and swirl for 5 minutes. Rinse with clean water and backflush with my Sawyer plunger prior to connecting the 0.9 liter bag that came with the BeFree. Let’s just say I was astounded by the results! I effortlessly emptied the 0.9 liter bag in well under a minute. Obviously, I went off label and your milage may vary, but this technique resurrected a filter that I was going to throw out.
FWIW, after a trip, I flush my BeFree with a weak bleach solution and let it dry before storing. Before the next trip, the filter is usually clogged and I routinely soak it in vinegar and then give it a vinegar flush, which restores it to like-new functionality, as far as I can tell.
Can you give us an example of the citric acid that you used? I’m assuming you don’t mean running orange juice through the filter. Do you mean something like a lemon juice used in cooking?
Yeah happened to me after storing.  The water simply wouldn’t move.  Luckily there was a large convenience store at the start of my hike selling white vinegar.   Swished the filter and vinegar in a plastic bag, let set, and repeated with “fresh” vinegar until it water flowed again.
Excellent data and advice Ryan.
After flushing the filter with citric acid (or vinegar) and then chlorine dioxide, would it be best to flush it with deionized (DI) water before drying it for storage? I live in the mountain west and the tap water here is very hard (a lot of minerals). I’m just wondering if you have any idea how much calcification could occur from the one final flush being tap water and drying, compared to repeated use and drying in the field – is using DI water as the final rinse worth it?
Also, here’s another tip for readers: I’ve noticed that after storage, I really need to soak my filter and push clean water through it, to wet out the fibers, before it has much of any flow rate. I put a piece of tape over the inlet of my filter to remind me to do this at home where it’s much easier to get a container of clean water than in the field (especially if my dry filter is barely working to make clean water!)
Great article! I enjoyed the thought and work put into it. I’ll echo the questions of others above:
nm
I use a fine-grained, pure, anhydrous citric acid powder. We used it in our water softener. Can’t recall the brand, but it was cheap, and I think I bought it from some big online retailer.
Yes, I see that I forgot to describe the DI flush after the disinfection step. We have hard water where we live as well, and storing it after a DI flush is part of my process.
Backflushing a Befree: same process as the Quickdraw, just use a platypus softbottle and squeeze water back through the filter from the clean to the dirty end. I carry a flat foam donut gasket with me (hardware store) to help seal the platypus bottle neck to the filter around the spout, which gives me a good enough seal to exert a little more pressure.
This article is incredibly informative and helpful. Thank you for putting in the hard work to write this.
On the PCT I used these small 1 micron socks that slipped over the BeFree filter housing and did a great job of protecting silt clogging of the tubes. You could also slip them off and rinse in a stream or whatever clean water source
Purchased on Amazon for 6 bucks
Â
http://DualPacks 1.0 Micron Sediment Pre-Filter Compatible with Katadyn BeFree, Made https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HBQ7TW9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F7ZE2E3AJ8Y5YQ68WZNA
Very good article, thank you for the good research. Look forward to trying it next season.
I do have a question, why double strength Aquamira? Aquamira is designed to kill pathogens in 2-4 hours at regular dilution and if it can damage fibers why increase concentration? With some chemicals increasing concentration doesn’t always increase effectiveness. I also assume Katadyn Micropur could be used instead of Aquamira.
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