Articles (2020)

Stoves, Tents and Carbon Monoxide – Deadly or not?
Part 1: Theory

You’ve read the warnings and heard the horror stories about cooking in your tent. How dangerous is it really? Part 1 of this series describes: how CO is formed, a warning sign of production, and a simple change you can make to your stove setup to reduce CO.

Introduction

Buy a small stove these days and it is likely to come covered in dire warnings about the risk of carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning and that you must not use the stove in any sort of confined space. And yet walkers have been using small stoves inside their tent vestibules in bad weather for many, many years with very few instances of trouble. What is the risk, why are all those warnings there, and how seriously should we take them?

This multi-part article explores the carbon monoxide issue. The first part will cover the basic theory underlying how stoves work and how they can generate carbon monoxide, the second part will cover an extensive amount of laboratory testing of a wide range of stoves, and the third part will cover field tests of some selected stoves inside several tents. It is mainly focused on butane/propane, white gas, and kerosene stoves, although some brief mention is made of alcohol and solid fuels.

Background

First of all, let’s make it very clear that a stove can make carbon monoxide or CO gas, and that this gas is poisonous above a very low level. It gets absorbed by the haemoglobin cells in your bloodstream, stopping them from absorbing oxygen. Without that oxygen circulating around in your body, you die.

The hazard from breathing in CO is real.

Stoves, Tents and carbon Monoxide - Pt 1 This is a well-ventilated tent, and it was cold outside.

What’s more, there have been a few cases1 where walking/mountaineering people in tents have suffered from CO poisoning. However, many of these cases have been inside tightly sealed tents at high altitude, and the number of cases is very small. Many other ‘tent’ cases have involved poorly operating lanterns or even charcoal BBQs in more tourist environments. On the other hand, I have spent a significant part of my life walking and ski touring, usually with my wife, and almost always in a small mountain tent. For the last 15+ years I have always used a small stove to cook dinner, and if the weather has been poor I have used that stove inside my tent. I have never been conscious of any hazards from carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, or lack of oxygen. Just why that may be so is discussed further on.

Now let’s look at the problem from the perspective of a stove manufacturer. Consider the quantity of highly volatile fuel involved with any stove, the potential for all sorts of fires and explosions, and the current propensity for people to sue companies over anything at all. One has to wonder why any sane manufacturer would even consider making and selling stoves! It seems inevitable that the company lawyers will stick as many warnings as possible onto the stoves. Since lawyers tend to focus more on human error and legal risk rather than the actual physics and chemistry of what’s going on, one can also expect the company lawyers to do everything short of saying ‘don’t even use the stove’.

This seems fair enough really, given the hazard and their liability concerns, but it throws the responsibility of understanding the nature of the hazard back onto the consumer, you, the walker. And there is very little real technical information in the market place about the hazard. This article aims to help explain what is really going on.

Overview of Part 1

In Part 1 of this article I start with a brief review of the medical knowledge. The nature of carbon monoxide poisoning is well understood: it can preferentially join with the red bloods cells which normally carry oxygen around your body, forming carboxyhemoglobin (COHb) and, basically, cutting off your oxygen supply. It displaces oxygen from your blood supply because haemoglobin has an affinity for carbon monoxide which is 200 to 250 times greater than its affinity for oxygen (O2).Yes, it can kill.

Then we review published reports and statistics, which support the idea that carbon monoxide does kill people each year, but the number killed is not great and the big hazards are not with small cooking stoves in well-ventilated walkers’ tents, even in the snow. Some medical research into this problem has been done. We list some very useful references under Medical Knowledge. A couple of other key non-medical references into the CO problem are also listed: these can be hard for walkers to find, and have not had the publicity they deserve. They are very much to the point.

Having dealt with the published literature, we will then move on to discuss Flame Chemistry, or what goes on inside those little flames coming out of your stove. As is so often the case, it is not quite as simple as you might think. Well, that’s what scientists say of course (and the author is one of them). However, a very simplified version is possible and is quite enough to make the rest of this article clear.

From all the above, the author has developed a fairly simple hypothesis about the source of the carbon monoxide hazard. If this hypothesis is correct, it means that a correctly-operated stove in a tent with adequate ventilation does not present a carbon monoxide hazard. It also explains how you can create or eliminate the hazard. The testing of this hypothesis will be covered in the two following parts of this article.

Medical Knowledge

Just how does CO affect you? The author is not a qualified medical practitioner, so the answers here will consist largely of quotes from published research papers.

Simon Leigh-Smith, MBChB, MRCGP, FRCSEd (A&E) from the Defence Medical Services, United Kingdom, wrote in a review2 of carbon monoxide poisoning in tents:

“Carbon monoxide is a chemical asphyxiant gas with a haemoglobin affinity 200 to 250 times greater than that of oxygen (O2). Carbon monoxide also interferes with cellular oxidation by binding myoglobin, cytochrome oxidase, cytochrome P-450, hydroperoxidases, and other haem proteins. Because it has an affinity for tissues with a high O2 demand, its main targets are the neurologic system, cardiac tissue, and fetus.”

My understanding is that this means your blood will prefer to absorb CO rather than oxygen, and that this limits the supply of oxygen to your body. This is not good. In addition, the CO interferes with various processes in your body – all rather critical ones. What levels of CO are medically hazardous? The following quote is from the above paper and gives UK figures in parts per million (ppm):

“Occupational exposure limits in the UK are set by the health and safety executive to avoid a COHb concentration greater than 5% in healthy nonsmokers. The maximum acceptable exposures are 200 ppm for 15 minutes (short-term exposure limit) and 30 ppm (time-weighted average) for 8 hours. Other sources state that in cases of extreme emergency, 200 ppm could be tolerated virtually indefinitely and certainly up to 24 hours without leading to collapse, which requires levels of 300 ppm (Ministry of Defence, unpublished data). To put these figures into context, 25 ppm is commonly encountered on major roads in urban areas and can reach 100 ppm during weather inversions.”

A paper3 on ‘Carbon monoxide exposure from cooking in snow caves at high altitude’ by Keyes, et al. gives the following American figures, where ‘COHb’ stands for carboxyhemoglobin or haemoglobin which has picked up CO:

“The threshold limit value for CO in industrial exposures is 35 ppm for an 8-hour workday and a maximum COHb of 5%. A concentration of 200 ppm is considered the ceiling level to which a worker may be exposed transiently without raising COHb level.”

The problem Keyes is highlighting here is that the concentration of CO in the air is not what affects you; rather it is the concentration of COHb or CO bonded to haemoglobin in your body which causes the damage. Different people have different responses, depending on their health and how long they are exposed. When considering cooking in a tent in bad weather, should we worry about the 15 minute 200 ppm figure, or the 8 hour 30/35 ppm figure? Both exposures seem rather low compared to the figures quoted for traffic situations where you can be stuck for an hour – although admittedly the latter can be pretty bad!

A secondary concern is that CO appears to clear out of your blood stream slower at high altitude than at sea level. However, in this case ‘high altitude’ usually means Himalayan altitudes – but Denali would qualify just fine.

It should be noted that there are an awful lot of junk publications around as well. It seems that some ‘medical researchers’ think the best approach is to stick a few uninformed volunteers inside a sealed tent with a running liquid fuel stove, and wait until they stop replying to questions about their health. Well, that may be slightly exaggerated, but not by much! I think it is unethical conduct. References are not listed for these, for obvious (legal/libel) reasons.

Published Statistics

The US Consumer Product Safety Commission collects statistics on carbon monoxide poisoning. In a comprehensive report on ‘Non-Fire Carbon Monoxide Deaths associated with the use of Consumer Products’4 issued in 2005 the fatalities for 2002 in the USA were analysed. Over the years 1999 – 2002 there were an average of 141 deaths from CO poisoning per year, and 188 in 2002 itself. Space heating systems were involved in 55% of the cases, engines in 28%, charcoal stoves in 5%, and camp stoves and lanterns were involved in 2%. It’s that two percent which concern us: just four people.

Stoves, Tents and carbon Monoxide - Pt 1 Storm-bound and losing ventilation around the edges.

Some 71% of deaths took place at home, while 23% took place in tents and temporary shelters. Most of the latter were, as the previous figures suggest, associated with space heating. It seems that many tourist-type campers have taken heaters into their tents at night – and left them running the whole night – and didn’t wake up.

The report does not even itemize the number of deaths which have occurred to walkers in little tents cooking dinner. It seems that even where a ‘camp stove’ was involved, there may also have been an LPG space heater. One gets the impression that holiday car campers in large family tents are the principal victims, and this is borne out by the following.

A report from the CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention) entitled ‘Carbon Monoxide Poisoning Deaths Associated with Camping’5 details two cases where people died in tents. In the first case ‘a 51-year-old man, his 10-year-old son, a 9-year-old boy, and a 7-year-old girl were found dead inside a zipped-up, 10-foot by 14-foot, two-room tent at their campsite in southeast Georgia (a pet dog also died). A propane gas stove, still burning, was found inside the tent; the stove apparently had been brought inside to provide warmth.’ In the second case ‘a 34-year-old man and his 7-year-old son were found dead inside their zipped-up tent at a group camping site in central Georgia. They were discovered by other campers just before 9 a.m. A charcoal grill was found inside the tent; the grill apparently had been brought inside to provide warmth after it had been used outside for cooking.’

Two New Zealand Dept of Conservation volunteers died in the Chatham Islands in 1996. They had been monitoring the flight paths of tagged birds in an isolated area. The subsequent investigation6 found that the ventilation in their tent was poor – it seems the tent was zipped right up, and it was considered likely that the carbon monoxide had come from a butane gas lantern they had been using inside the tent.

Stoves, Tents and carbon Monoxide - Pt 1 Coleman Fyrestorm fuel tank, with ventilation warning.

The review by Simon Leigh-Smith cited above contains references to other cases, dating back to 1911, in Arctic and Antarctic regions as well as high mountain regions. In all cases it seems that the enclosures were seriously sealed: tents zipped up and iced over for instance. It doesn’t take a lot of snowfall to block all air ventilation at ground level for instance, as the photo of the author’s orange tent above shows. (That was in the morning, after the storm had passed.) When that happens, all you have left are the top vents.

It is interesting to note that the fuel tank for the latest multi-fuel stove from Coleman, the Fyrestorm Ti, carries a very explicit and extremely sensible warning on it: ‘This camp stove consumes air. To ensure its safe and proper operation and avoid health hazards, provide a fresh air opening of at least 10 square inches’. (The fine print underneath does say to not use it in a tent, but that’s just the lawyers speaking.) If you think about it, a vent some 5 inches wide by 2 inches high is fairly easy to have at the top of the door in many good tents. Just make sure there is somewhere down low for the air to get in – if necessary, clear the snow away to make an inlet hole at ground level.

Other References

There is an excellent but very short publication on the carbon monoxide problem from the Geophysical Institute, University of Alaska Fairbanks, by T. Neil Davis entitled ‘Carbon Monoxide from Melting Snow, Article #336’. It is available at www.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF3/336.htm. The report briefly covers what causes the carbon monoxide problem, and states ‘tests were conducted in 1942 by a group that included two scientists well known in the North, Drs Laurence Irving and Pete Scholander. Somehow in the years that have lapsed since 1942 the consequences of the tests seem to have been forgotten.’ The hypothesis I will be testing in the next part of this article is essentially the same as was proposed in 1942.

An experiment7 by Schwartz, et al. into running stoves inside a sealed box showed that measured CO levels quickly soared to very dangerous levels with all fuels, with kerosene apparently being the worst offender. The experiment showed that stoves can keep burning despite high levels of CO being present, thereby exacerbating the problem.

Finally, an article in Backpacker Magazine8 from 1978 entitled ‘Carbon Monoxide in Tents’ covers a small number of tests done on stoves in tents. Some stoves were found to emit a lot of CO, and the authors found that they could reduce the amount of CO emitted by a simple change to the offending stove: they raised the pot a little above the normal position. Why this happens is discussed below; the effectiveness of this method to control the CO levels emitted in practice will be examined in the next part of this article– but basically, it works. Unfortunately, the information in this article has also been largely forgotten.

Flame Chemistry

Stoves, Tents and carbon Monoxide - Pt 1 Basic hydrocarbon chain of carbon atoms (green) and hydrogen atoms (red),
held together by carbon-carbon bonds (blue) and carbon-hydrogen bonds (yellow).

What causes the production of CO? Surely the flame from a stove should be producing carbon dioxide and water? Well, yes, it should, but let’s look into the chemistry of flames to see what else is happening. It turns out that things get a little more complex when you have atoms flying around in a hot flame which can peak around 2,800 to 3,200 F (1,540 to 1,760 C). Actually, the flame should reach 3,600 F (1,980 C) if it didn’t lose heat to the surroundings – but it always does.

Let’s start with a basic hydrocarbon molecule containing a chain of carbon [C] atoms with hydrogen [H] atoms hanging off them. The molecule shown symbolically in the picture here has four carbons, and is called n-butane. (Isobutane has the same number of atoms in it, but the structure is slightly different.) If there were only three carbons in the chain the molecule would be propane. When this is heated in a hot enough flame all the bonds between the C and H atoms break, and you get all those individual atoms flying around in the flame. At the same time the oxygen molecules (two oxygen atoms bonded together) break up and you have individual oxygen atoms flying around. All this requires energy (a high temperature) for it to occur.

Then combustion starts, and a carbon atom links up with an oxygen atom to make carbon monoxide or CO, which we write thus:

C + O => CO + energy

When the carbon atom bonds with the oxygen atom energy is given off, and this helps make the flame hot. (If the flame gets really hot this reaction can be reversed, but that won’t happen under our stove conditions.) Now we have our CO. But a molecule of CO can burn too: in a second reaction it links up with another oxygen atom to make a carbon dioxide molecule or CO2 , and in doing so gives off more energy, thus:

CO + O => CO2 + energy

Under ideal conditions the combustion should go all the way to CO2. But the second reaction (CO to CO2) does not happen under all conditions: the atoms have to be pretty hot for them to get close enough to join, and there has to be enough oxygen around. One could say, for simplicity, that the first reaction of making CO happens more readily. It has to happen first, anyhow.

For those concerned about the fate of the hydrogen atoms, fear not. They too find oxygen partners and get hitched up, giving off energy in the process, thus:

2 H + O => H2O + energy

They create H2O molecules, or water, and you can see this condensing on a very cold pot sometimes right at the start of a cooking exercise. Later on when the pot gets warmer, the steam (for that is what it is) no longer condenses on the pot. It may of course condense on the inside of your tent, or create fog if you are cooking in colder weather.

That the C + O => CO reaction happens first will be seen as the critical factor in stove flame chemistry and unwanted CO emission. Now let’s follow a carbon atom in a hydrocarbon molecule coming out of a hole in a stove’s burner head and going up the flame. First the hydrocarbon molecule is heated up by the energy from the flame, and when hot enough it breaks apart (dissociates) to give free carbon and hydrogen atoms. The hydrogen burns quickly, giving off energy to keep this process going. A little further up the flame the carbon atom combines with a free oxygen atom to make a CO molecule. So far, so good. Then a little further up the flame the CO molecule comes across another oxygen atom and combines with it to give a CO2 molecule – if it is hot enough. If it is, the flame gives off CO2; if it isn’t, the flame gives off CO.

So what matters is whether the higher parts of the flame are hot enough for the second burning reaction to take place. If the flame suddenly runs into a ‘cold’ surface and transfers energy to it, the temperature of the flame is going to drop, and if it drops far enough the second reaction won’t happen. This drop in temperature is called ‘quenching.’

The key point is this: if the flame is quenched too soon, CO results.

Obviously, having a ‘cold’ pot too close to the flame could do this, and in this context even a pot of boiling water will seem cold compared to the flame. Forget any ideas about pots of snow being worse than warm water – they are all ‘cold’ compared to the flame temperature of about 3,000 F (1,650 C). BUT, if we have enough clearance between the pot and the burner the combustion process will complete before the flame hits the pot.

Does having enough clearance between the pot and the burner to avoid this problem reduce the fuel efficiency? This is unlikely to happen as most of the flame energy will still be in the flame – and with the burning of the CO there will be extra energy added to the flame. A very small amount of energy will be lost through infra-red radiation from the flame as it travels the extra distance up to the pot, but given the short distances involved ( about 1 inch or 25 millimeters) and the high speed the gas is traveling at, the amount will be small. Part 2 of this article will examine this question in detail.

Some researchers9 have also suggested that using a very wide pot can cause CO production. If true this would be unfortunate as a wider pot is favoured for efficiency in fuel use. However, it should be clear from the discussion so far that the width of the pot is not a direct factor here. If a wide pot sits too close to the burner so the flame is being quenched there may be a problem regardless of pot width, but raising the pot so the flame is not quenched should solve that. This too will be examined in Part 2.

Long Flames and Orange Flames

We should consider what happens if there just isn’t enough oxygen present in the fuel/air mixture coming out the stove’s burner. In this case some of the fuel could travel quite some distance away from the face of the burner before finding some oxygen from outside the flame. This leads to long flames. You frequently see this with an alcohol stove, where the fuel doesn’t get premixed with air.

It is also possible that some of the carbon atoms won’t meet up with any oxygen atoms before they reach the edge of the flame and the cold pot. They may start to cool down – but this is relative of course. While they are in the flame they are quite a bit hotter than ‘white hot,’ and emit mainly in the blue part of the spectrum. That’s why the flame seems blue. But as the carbon atoms cool down they pass through the ‘red hot’ stage, and will radiate just like a red hot bit of steel. They will emit red/orange/white light, and this is seen as an orange tip to the flame. You may notice some soot collecting on the underside of your pot when this happens. A traditional kerosene lantern creates a lot of this free carbon, that’s why it makes a bright light. If it is managed poorly, you will see a lot of soot coming off the flame too. Can a kerosene lantern make CO? It shouldn’t when properly adjusted, despite the bright flame, because there is little to quench the flame.

So if your stove has orange tips to the flame it means that it is not burning very well. It may be making soot, and it may be emitting CO. This is a warning sign!

Differences between Fuels

Stoves, Tents and carbon Monoxide - Pt 1 The central tube (green arrow) and burner head on an MSR WindPro stove.
The blue arrow points to the jet inside the tube.
The red arrows point to some of the air inlet holes around the jet.

Now let us examine the differences between the common fuels. First we will simply list a number of key factors, then we will put them together to show that the different fuels do behave slightly differently, and finally we will see what that means for us.

  1. None of the common fuels are a single hydrocarbon; rather they are all mixtures of several hydrocarbons. For convenience we will describe propane which has 3 carbon atoms as C3, and butane which has four carbon atoms as C4. Following this convention makes white gas a mixture of hydrocarbons ranging from C4 to C12, while kerosene is a mixture ranging from C11 to C16. Yes, some of those hydrocarbon chains are very long. Why are white gas and kerosene mixtures of hydrocarbons? It would be very expensive to separate all the different hydrocarbons out at the refinery, and anyhow the mixtures actually work better than single hydrocarbons.
  2. In a typical stove we have a stream of fuel vapour coming out the jet (blue arrow) and shooting up a central tube (green arrow) to the burner head. The higher the pressure behind the jet, the faster the fuel vapour will come flying out of it, and the more fuel vapour will come out per unit time as well. Many walkers will have noticed that the performance of a white gas stove is affected by how much they pump the tank. The pressure at the jet is controlled by the pressure in the tank and the valve opening.
  3. The stream of fuel vapour goes flying past some large holes (red arrows) in the side of the central tube, and the speed of the vapour stream sucks in air through those holes to mix with the fuel vapour. If not enough air is sucked in for the amount of fuel vapour passing by, there won’t be enough oxygen inside the flame, the flames may be rather long, and both CO and soot may be emitted. On the other hand, if more than enough air is dragged in, the flames are going to be very short at the burner face, and the metal there is going to get very hot and possibly start oxidizing away. What size holes to provide in the central tube is therefore a trade-off. You may notice with some stoves that when you have the stove turned down to a simmer the flames are short, but when you turn the stove up the flames lengthen and may get orange tips. There isn’t enough air coming in at the higher settings. Stove design is quite an art.
  4. One of the things you learn in basic physics and chemistry is that the size of the molecules does not really affect the pressure in a gas: all that matters is the number of molecules present. So for a given pressure behind the jet you will have pretty much the same number of fuel molecules streaming out of the jet per unit time.

Now, let us put all this together. We have these molecules of fuel flying up the central tube, and each molecule contains a number of carbon atoms. How much oxygen does a single molecule require for complete combustion? It depends very much on the molecule. The chemical equations for the combustion of some of the hydrocarbons are as follows – you can work out the rest from these:

# Carbons Name Chemical equation
3 Propane C3H8 + 7 O2 => 3 CO2 + 4 H2O
4 Butane C4H10 + 9 O2 => 4 CO2 + 5 H2O
5 Pentane C5H12 + 11 O2 => 5 CO2 + 6 H2O
8 Octane C8H18 + 17 O2 => 8 CO2 + 9 H2O
12 Dodecane   C12H26 + 25 O2 => 12 CO2 + 13 H2O

We see that as the number of carbon atoms in a fuel molecule rises, the amount of oxygen needed per fuel molecule rises dramatically. One molecule of propane needs seven molecules of oxygen, but one molecule of dodecane needs twenty five – more than three times as much. What this means is that white gas is going to need considerably more oxygen (or air) than butane/propane, and kerosene is going to need even more again – much more! Now try to achieve this with one stove design spanning all three fuel types. You would need to make massive changes to the amount of air being dragged inside the central tube, and that is simply not possible at the air inlet.

As an aside, when Australia switched from coal gas to ‘natural gas,’ which is a form of LPG, every stove in Australia had to have either the jet or the whole burner assembly changed. The fuel/air mixture required for safe operation had changed.

This is why some stove manufacturers provide several different jets with a multi-fuel stove – they have to throttle down the flow of white gas and kerosene relative to butane/propane. For instance, Primus supplies several different sized jets with their Omnifuel and Gravity MF multi-fuel stoves, thus:

Fuel Omnifuel
jet size
Gravity MF
jet size
Butane/propane 0.45 mm 0.45 mm
White Gas 0.37 mm 0.40 mm
Kerosene 0.28 mm 0.35 mm

Even so, the instructions on the Primus Gravity MF stove specifically warn against pumping up the tank too hard. If you do, the flames become long, wild and have orange tips. Yes, I have done this, and it is so. It was also slightly scary. A serious case of ‘read the manual’! I also tried the 0.45 mm jet on the Gravity MF with white gas – by accident. That too was a bit scary, with very long wild flames. Once was enough.

Does this mean that there may be differences in safety between the fuels when they are burning? Obviously the chance of having not enough oxygen for complete combustion is far more severe for kerosene than for butane since it needs so much more. The paper by Schwartz, et al. cited above confirms that kerosene was worse than white gas in their tests, and other small tests suggest that butane/propane is cleaner than both of these. It is notable that all the multi-fuel stoves I have tested seem to work far more reliably on butane/propane than on either white gas or kerosene. The flame patterns are far more stable with butane/propane.

Other Burner Designs

Stoves, Tents and carbon Monoxide - Pt 1 MSR XGK XE burner cup and splash plate, with brass jet visible at bottom pointing upwards.

All of the above discussion has assumed the traditional ‘quiet’ burner with the premix tube underneath, but this is not the only sort of burner available. We also have what is technically known as a ‘vortex’ burner, and this is seen on the big old Primus stoves, the elderly but highly respected Optimus 8R and Svea stoves, and the modern MSR XGK series.

The vortex burner starts with a jet, up from which streams the fuel vapour. It flies up inside a burner cup and hits a ‘splash plate’ on top, and is deflected outwards. Along the way it drags up some air through the slots in the side of the burner cup and the flame starts burning. But owing to the design of the burner head, some of the fuel cycles back downwards to mix with the air coming in through the slots again, and then flies back up the middle. The central column of fuel vapour is surrounded by a vortex of fuel and air, mixing and burning furiously. The heat from the surrounding flame breaks down the fuel molecules in the central column of vapour. In practice this donut-shaped vortex and the flame can oscillate in an unstable manner at very high frequency. You hear this as a roar. Yes indeed – the jet-plane-taking-off noise made by an MSR XGK is an integral part of the burner design and operation! Finally, some of the flame and a lot of the hot gas emerges from the open ring around the edge of the splash plate.

Stoves, Tents and carbon Monoxide - Pt 1 Very old Optimus 8R with splash plate removed from burner cup to show interior of vortex chamber, with jet and air slots.

Clearly the operation is a bit different here from the silent burners shown before – even though the chemistry is exactly the same. The design of these burners is tricky. It is possible to alter the shape of the burner cup and have the stove just not work. Aficionados of antique Primus stoves (they exist, as whole web-based societies!) are well aware that you cannot fit a burner cup from stove model X to stove model Y and have it always work. The air flow and mixing patterns may not be just right. This is a common topic of discussion. (Do these guys actually use these stoves in the field? Probably not; mostly they just polish them.) Editor’s Note: So, Roger, how is it that you are so intimately acquainted with these stove polishers?

What happens if the splash plate burns out while you are on a long trip? The answer should be obvious now – without the precisely designed deflection the original plate provides, you may be in deep trouble. This has happened in the Antarctic in times past – but the trip was pretty epic anyhow. On a very long trip you should carry spares! By the way, even the Optimus shown here, built in the 60’s, had an integral jet cleaning needle inside the jet. Crank the valve over to one end, and the needle cleaned the jet. The ‘Shaker Jet’ concept was not all that novel when MSR introduced it.

Stoves, Tents and carbon Monoxide - Pt 1 Handy Camper stove, with jet drilled in the tube at top of blue line.

Finally, just for fun, we have the classic but somewhat rare “Handy Camper’s Stove”: surely one of the most inspired designs ever created! It was a model of utter simplicity in design and manufacture, but totally lacking in any degree of control. Like the Optimus 8R it uses a wick to get the fuel from the tank underneath up to the preheat tube, which in this case is just one and a half turns of copper tube brazed in place. You light it by sloshing some fuel around in the centre depression, at the foot of the coil. The rusty baffle plate leaning up against the green carry-can behind the coil is normally attached to the coil as a sort of draft-excluder. Was it safe? Well, I used it for some years in my youth, and it never gave me any problems. How hot the tank got has to be an open question, but I didn’t worry about such things in those days. Does the flame get enough air? Well, it was certainly all blue, and there are no restrictions to the airflow.

As I said, there are no controls. You put the flame out by very quickly jamming a cork inside the coil to block the jet hole at the bottom of the coil. The cork, still functional, is to the right of the burner coils. Yes, this is a vortex burner: the two copper coils at the top act as the splash plate. Yes, it worked fine in my youth, but no, I haven’t used it recently!

Fuel Vapour: another Hazard

While we are on safety, it should be mentioned here that CO may not be the only hazard associated with a stove. Most walkers who have used white gas and kerosene stoves will be familiar with the smell of the fuel. This is often noticeable when priming the stove and more so when the stove has just been turned off. I am sure many walkers will be familiar with the practice of putting the stove outside the tent or hut as soon as it has been turned off because of the smell. Is this smell dangerous?

Stoves, Tents and carbon Monoxide - Pt 1 Primus Gravity pump housing with OFF label.

The answer is probably yes, albeit to an unknown degree. Consider what is in white spirits and kerosene. There are high-order hydrocarbons galore, and we do not always know exactly what they are. We do know that auto gas or petrol contains benzene, and that this is carcinogenic. We also know that ‘petrol sniffing’ can be extremely bad for the brain, due to some of the chemicals found in the fuel. There have been many reports of people feeling unwell after spending some time in a closed hut with a liquid fuel stove. It would seem reasonable to assume that inhaling too much of the fuel vapour would not be good for your health.

The problem with many liquid fuel stoves with remote tanks is that the valve is necessarily located at the tank. This means that when you turn the valve off, some fuel will remain in the fuel line. This fuel will slowly evaporate into your air space if the stove is still inside your tent or hut. In this context, it may be worth noting that the latest Primus Gravity MF stove features a rotating connector at the tank, and that the instructions explicitly tell you to flip the tank over to drain the fuel line before turning the stove off. The pump housing has ‘ON’ and ‘OFF’ labels on the two sides for this.

The connector on the latest Coleman Fyrestorm stove does rotate, but sadly this does not drain the fuel line for some strange design reason. On the other hand, popular earlier stoves such as the MSR Whisperlite and Simmerlite have connectors which definitely do not permit this practice.

Alcohol and Solid Fuels

Is any of this relevant to alcohol and solid fuel stoves? Well, not entirely, because in general they don’t have the same sort of burner construction and flame dynamics. The basic chemistry still applies of course, but there is no pre-mixing of fuel and air before the flame starts.

The slower flame velocity in open alcohol stoves normally gives the flame plenty of time to get enough oxygen. Even pressurized alcohol stoves have low velocity flames in comparison. However, they can be tested for CO emission, and have been found to offend if the air supply is restricted. Of course, every user of alcohol stoves is familiar with the smell of alcohol being splashed around, but are you aware that methyl alcohol is far more toxic than ethyl alcohol? You might like to check which fuel you are really buying. Some brands of ‘denatured alcohol’ are a mixture of ethyl and methyl alcohol, and then there is the denaturing agent (methyl ethyl ketone) that is also included. If your alcohol stove is not getting enough air for combustion (e.g., because of a very tight windscreen), it can put out a lot of unburned alcohol and ketone vapors, and breathing these vapors in a confined space (your tent) is not a very healthy practice!

The chemistry in the flame from a lump of solid fuel is a bit different: the basic hexamine is a far more complex molecule. Once it has broken all the way down to carbon and hydrogen atoms the reactions are the same, but getting a complete breakdown is not always guaranteed. Some nasty molecules (ammonia and formaldehyde have been frequently mentioned) can be released under some situations, so these fuels should always be run in lots of fresh air.

Wood is actually not very far away from all of these. If wood is heated (in a ‘down-draft gasifier’) it gives off ‘volatiles’ or ‘wood gas,’ and this is a great mess of hydrocarbons. The chemistry for these is basically as above. Left behind we find carbon or charcoal. But this could be a whole subject in its own right, and is not pursued in this article.

Summary of Part 1

  • Carbon monoxide can be emitted by a stove under the right conditions.
  • This carbon monoxide really can present a serious health hazard.
  • This hazard would seem to get worse as we go from butane/propane to white spirits to kerosene.
  • Some stove designs may be worse than others because the pot is placed too close to the burner.
  • The hazard is not inevitable: there would seem to be ways to reduce it to negligible levels.
  • Long flames and yellow flames may indicate a CO hazard.
  • Ventilation is crucial under any circumstances.

Preview of Part 2

In Part 2, I will present my actual measurements of carbon monoxide concentration taken in a backpacking situation – when using a backpacking stove inside a tent. (Part 3 will cover field measurements.) Specifically, in Part 2 I evaluate several variables in relation to the amount of carbon monoxide produced:

  • Measurement of CO concentration for different models of stoves.
  • Measurement of CO concentration as the distance between pot and burner is changed.
  • Measurement of CO concentration as the fuel is changed from butane/propane to white spirits to kerosene.
  • Measurement of CO concentration as the stove power is varied from low to high.
  • Measurement of CO concentration as the pot diameter is varied.

References

  1. Foutch RG, Henrichs W. “Carbon monoxide poisoning at high altitudes”, Am J Emerg Med. , 6, pp 596–598, 1988
  2. Simon Leigh-Smith, MBChB, MRCGP, FRCSEd (A&E), “Carbon Monoxide Poisoning in Tents — A Review,” Wilderness and Environmental Medicine, 15, pp 157-163 (2004)
  3. Linda E Keyes, MD et al, “Carbon monoxide exposure from cooking in snow caves at high altitude,” Wilderness and Environmental Medicine, 12, pp 208-212, 2001
  4. Debra S Ascone & Natalie E Marcy, “Non-Fire Carbon Monoxide Deaths associated with the use of Consumer Products,” US Consumer Product Safety Commission, Directorate for Epidemiology, 12 July 2005
  5. ‘Carbon Monoxide Poisoning Deaths Associated with Camping – Georgia 1999,’ Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report, CDC, vol 48 / No 32, pp 705-6, 20 August 1999
  6. Private communication
  7. Schwartz RB, Ledrick DJ, Lindman AL, ‘A comparison of carbon monoxide levels during the use of a multi-fuel camp stove’, Wilderness Environ Med. 2001 Winter; 12(4):236-8.
  8. William Kemsley & the editors of Backpacker Magazine, ‘Carbon Monoxide in Tents’ in “Backpacking Equipment Buyer’s Guide” by Backpacker Magazine, 1978
  9. Simon Leigh-Smith et al, ‘Does Pan Diameter Influence Carbon Monoxide Levels During Heating of Water to Boiling Point With a Camping Stove?’, Wilderness and Environmental Medicine: Vol. 15, No. 3, pp 171–174.

Primus Gravity MF Stove REVIEW

Innovative multi-fuel stove for canisters, white gas and kerosene that performs well with canister fuel but is difficult to use with the other fuels.

Introduction

The concept for the Primus Gravity MF stove is for a really flexible, powerful and stable multi-fuel stove handling canisters, white gas and kerosene, to be useful in both summer and winter, and at a fairly low weight. The Primus Gravity MF stove is stable and very low. Using a single connector to mate with both canisters and pumped tanks is innovative and works well. The Primus Gravity MF runs well on canister fuel but it does have a few problems with the other fuels.

What’s Good

  • Handles all fuels (except alcohol)
  • Light weight, especially for a liquid fuel stove
  • Low profile and stable design

What’s Not So Good

  • Tends to sputter in some cases
  • Priming difficulties, sometimes leading to fireballs
  • Flame lift-off possible
  • Valve orientation gets in the way for an inverted canister

Specifications

  Manufacturer

Primus

  Year/Model

2006 Gravity MF

  Fuels

Butane/propane mix, white gas and variants, kerosene

  Power

10,500 BTU/hr (3 kW)

  Stove Weight

8.57 oz (243 g), hard sheet steel, brass, braided fuel line

  Pump and Tank Weight

3.63 oz (103 g) for the aluminium and plastic pump,
3.53 oz (100 g) for the aluminium tank with capacity 1 pt (0.6 L)

  Minimum Field Weight

8.57 oz (243 g) + any canister support legs for canister version,
15.7 oz (446 g) for ‘liquid’ fuel version

  Stove Leg Radius

4 in (100 mm)

  Stove Pot Support Radius

2.7 in (70 mm)

  Stove Pot Support Height

2.5 in (65 mm)

  Packing Size

Claimed: 4 x 4 x 1.6 in (10 x 10 x 4 cm)

  Burn Time

Canister – not quoted, depends on canister size,
white gas approximately 1.5 hr, kerosene approximately 2 hr

  Accessories

Tank cap, multi-tool, extra jets, silicone grease, windshield, base plate

  MSRP

US$110

Performance

Primus Gravity MF Stove REVIEW - 1 Lindal-style valve inside pump fitting.

The Primus Gravity MF stove is among the first of a new-generation of multi-fuel stoves which are able to burn all of the common powerful fuels – white gas, kerosene, butane/propane canister fuel, and variants thereof. The previous generation of ‘multi-fuel’ stoves could not handle canisters. As such it is very welcome.

Primus has achieved this versatility very neatly. There is a standard screw-thread fitting on most canisters: they have used this format. Primus puts a standard screw-thread adapter and valve on the end of the fuel line so it can attach to a canister. They also put a canister screw-thread fitting on the pump: this is the brass bit sticking up from the black plastic housing, visible in the picture here. Inside the screw thread fitting on every canister there is what is called a Lindal valve – it keeps the gas inside the canister. It is opened by the stove being screwed onto the canister. There is the same sort of valve inside the brass fitting on the Primus Gravity MF pump, in the hole pointed to by the blue arrow. This is only opened when the fuel line is connected. Having it there means you can pressurise the tank without the stove being attached. What I particularly like here is that Primus has used an existing (and very reliable) industry standard for the connection rather than develop a new one.

One practical caution is in order. The Primus Gravity stove originally came in two forms: the ‘Gravity’ which used butane/propane canisters, and the ‘Gravity MF’ which used a tank or fuel bottle and burnt either white gas or kerosene, although the MF kit did not include the fuel bottle for some reason. Primus has since melded the two together as the ‘MF.’ Some smaller shops may still be carrying the older versions. The current ‘Gravity MF’ handles all fuels and has the fuel bottle tacked onto the outside of the earlier MF box. Close inspection shows that the stove, hose and valve come from the older canister-specific Gravity stove. The new fitting on the pump consists of a screw-thread Lindal valve mated to the bayonet fitting which the pump originally used. The bayonet fitting used to be retained by a spring clip. That clip is still there, but is screwed down to lock the bayonet in place. (It’s a very small screw: don’t lose it!) This neat little adapter allows the older parts and production facilities to be used for the new multi-fuel version, but it does mean the valve is designed to control gas flow, not liquid flow. This will be seen to be significant.

The burner shell is the outer surface of the burner with all the little holes. The fuel/air mixture swirls around inside the shell, mixing, before it comes out the holes. The holes have to be fairly small to prevent the flames from getting inside the burner, and there is a layer of fine mesh inside the visible shell which helps reduce the apparent size of the holes. A large burner shell like this one is often thought to allow a higher peak power, but comparing actual performance figures between different stoves does not really support this idea.

A large burner like this can spread the flames out so your pot does not get so many hot spots which can burn your dinner. However, a large burner puts the flames nearer the edge of a small pot, so that the flames have a greater chance of coming up the side. This seriously reduces efficiency at higher power, and can be a little hazardous as well if the flames come very far up the side.

Three different jets are provided for the stove: 0.45 millimetre for butane/propane, 0.40 for white gas, and 0.35 for kerosene. Changing the jet over is fairly simple. You remove the screw in the middle of the burner (tip of green line in the picture below), remove the legs (slightly fiddly) and then extract the jet from the hole in the fuel/air mixing tube. You may have to prise the reheat tube up a little to get the jet out of the hole, but then it is easy. The multi-tool provided has a straight blade screwdriver on one end which can be used to undo the Phillips head screw (uncouth, and it does not always work). The spanner part of the multitool fits the jet. The jets are labelled with their sizes in fine engraved writing on the faces. The multi-tool (with pricker), a cap for the tank, some silicone grease, a heavy aluminium shim windshield and ground-plate are all included in the kit.

Primus Gravity MF Stove REVIEW - 2 Top view of Gravity MF stove, showing key parts.

The legs fold under at the hinges (blue lines) to further reduce the height of the stove, down to about 1.7 inches (43 millimetres). This makes packing simpler. However, you should be very careful to not bend the flexible fuel line too much, especially where it joins with the rigid fuel preheat tube (red line), and this limits the packed diameter to about 6.7 inches (170 millimetres). Primus claims that you can reduce the folded bundle to about 4 inches (100 millimetres) square, but that is far smaller than I am willing to bend the hose. Primus assures me that the fuel line is lined with Teflon, is very tough and that the company has had no problems from kinks, but I recommend you take no chances. You should also keep an eye on the connection between the flexible and rigid sections to make sure there are no leaks there. The connection has to be quite tight. You should rarely need to undo this connection anyhow.

This is the lowest stove I have seen for these fuels. The fold-up legs are not heavy, but they are quite strong enough. The result is a very stable stove indeed – yet quite compact. The only problem with having four legs rather than three is that sometimes the fourth leg doesn’t touch the ground without a little packing under it, but this is a minor matter, easily fixed in the field. Primus has achieved this low height by placing the normally vertical fuel/air mixing tube horizontally inside the burner. There is obviously some clever baffling inside the burner as well, to distribute the vaporised fuel/air mix evenly around the burner. This works fairly well as the flame pattern is very good, with only a slight tendency for some extra flame to appear opposite the jet. However, as detailed below, the burner design does present problems with priming.

The Primus Gravity MF stove is claimed to have a peak power output of about 3 kilowatts, which puts it up there with the other mainstream stoves of all sorts. You pay no penalty in peak performance for the versatility itself, but note my comment above about large burners. However, I never run my stoves flat out as that is very inefficient. As always, using the supplied windscreen or a lighter one is advisable for reliable and efficient operation.

Field Testing – Canister fuel

Primus Gravity MF Stove REVIEW - 3 The Primus Gravity MF by a small creek in the summer running off a canister.

Operation of the stove with the canister upright is very straight forward, and the stove runs just fine like this. This is the normal summer method of operation for any upright canister stove, where the gas evaporates inside the canister. The operation is very flexible, ranging from a very low flame suitable for a simmer to a quite aggressive flame for a very fast boil. Control over this range is smooth and convenient. With the flames just reaching the edge of my 5.9 inch (150 millimetre) diameter Trangia kettle, I can bring two cups of water (500 mL) to the boil from ‘room temperature’ in 4.5 minutes. Sure, I can make it boil water considerably faster, but I choose to be economical with the fuel I carry, and that’s fast enough for two cups of coffee. When cooking dinner I usually have the stove turned down to an even slower rate anyhow. Turning the stove off is simple and obvious – you just turn the valve off. It’s a very nice stove in this configuration.

But that’s not all. The valve on the fuel line can swivel around, so you can invert the canister to get a liquid feed, as described in Selecting a Canister Stove for Cold Weather Backpacking Part II: Commercially Available Canister Stove Systems. One has to wonder why it has taken stove companies so long to reach this design.

However, operation of the Primus Gravity MF stove with the canister upside down for winter use is not without some problems. I tested this at temperatures between freezing and ‘room temperature’ and at altitudes between sea level and 1000 metres (3,300 feet), and found that there are distinct sputtering sounds from somewhere in the fuel line or in the burner, and when this happens the flame height is slightly erratic. I suspect the sputtering may be flash boiling of liquid fuel when it hits very hot metal in the preheat tube. I discuss this below.

Primus Gravity MF Stove REVIEW - 4 Condensation on the valve when running the canister inverted.

I contacted Primus in Sweden about this, and the response implied that this was a known phenomenon. I was advised to try switching from the 0.45 millimetre jet to the 0.40 jet as the former might be a bit oversize, but I am not sure Primus was really confident that this was the problem. I tried changing the jet, but it didn’t seem to make much difference, and a check on the larger jet size showed it was fairly close to the specified size anyhow. The stove does run fairly steadily like this and I have used the stove in the inverted configuration under various conditions, but the sound is a bit of a worry.

In warmer weather when the liquified butane/propane gas coming out of the valve can evaporate at the valve (rather than at the preheat tube), you will see the valve getting cold and collecting condensation. This is illustrated in the picture here. This doesn’t seem to affect the operation at all, and won’t damage the valve as it is brass.

The picture does show a small problem with the design of the Primus valve for inverted operation. It extends out from the canister a long way, unlike some other valves which stick out sideways (eg MSR WindPro). This means the canister has to be held much higher in the air with the Primus Gravity MF stove than with other stoves. With other stoves I can use a very simple stand of some sort, but for this stove I ended up leaning the canister up against something and letting it rest on the black valve knob. I have to say it works just as well this way.

Flash Boiling – Examination

The flash boiling seems to produce a surge in pressure in the line, which pushes the liquid fuel back a bit and the flame height increases briefly as well, due to the higher pressure. Then as the vaporized fuel burns away the pressure in the line drops, the flame height drops, and the liquid fuel pushes forward again to do some more flash boiling. This sputtering can happen with all fuels when the driving pressure is high.

One very possible explanation for the flash boiling is that the liquid fuel comes along the chilled Teflon-lined fuel hose and hits the hot metal preheat tube suddenly, and flash boils when it makes contact. I checked the temperature of the connecting nut between the flexible and rigid sections and found it was well over 100 C (212 F): this is certainly hot enough to vaporise canister fuel and white gas, if not kerosene. If this is correct it suggests a design problem with the abrupt transition from the insulated Teflon lining to hot brass. However, I find it hard to believe there can be an abrupt transition from a brass line at a temperature well over 100 C (212 F) to a Teflon line at a temperature under 0 C (32 F).

Listening very carefully to the sputtering sound did not really pinpoint it at the connection. It could equally well have come from within the burner. For this to be correct it would mean that liquid fuel is getting down the entire length of the preheat tube and vaporising at the jet. This would require that small drops of fuel are being carried along by vapour. I find this a little hard to believe because the preheat tube gets extremely hot and it has a fat flexible stainless steel cleaning wire up its length, as do most other liquid fuel stoves. There simply does not seem to be enough room for blobs of liquid fuel to float up the tube. On the other hand, the fuel line on this stove is a lot fatter than other fuel lines which are not associated with sputtering.

It is possible to run a canister stove with the canister inverted without the sputtering. Neither the Coleman Xtreme nor the MSR WindPro do this, but I note the Xtreme does have a brass wire running some distance down the solid preheat tube, while the WindPro has a length of steel wire there. Perhaps this is an internal heat exchanger helping to vaporize the incoming liquid fuel? I tried to copy this by running a bundle of copper wires from the preheat tube down into the flexible tube, but it did not seem to make any difference. So at present this sputtering problem is apparently known to Primus, the cause is not known, but the stove seems to work reasonably well on a feed of liquid butane/propane gas despite it.

Field Testing – White Gas and Kerosene

The stove burns both white gas and kerosene, using a fairly conventional liquid fuel tank and pump. The pump is quite solid and works very easily – much more easily than some plastic pumps which seem to drag at the shaft. The valve at the pump output connection allows you to pump up the pressure without the stove connected. Unlike some other pumps, this pump is tilted when inserted into the tank, so the bottom end of the pump almost touches the inside of the tank. This is visible in the middle of the first picture. The brass fuel inlet line (on the right side of the pump) probably does touch the inside of the fuel tank.

I found that using a too-large size of jet was bad news: long yellow flames went all over the place. This did not happen with the jet sizes nominated by Primus. It is possible to run with smaller jets than specified: you just get reduced peak power. This has never worried me as I never try to run the stove at peak power.

A phenomenon known as ‘flame lift-off’ is a serious problem when it happens. The term means the flame doesn’t start until some distance above the face of the burner: the flame has lifted off the face. I have seen flame lift-off over small areas of the burner with all fuels, and especially when the driving pressure in the pumped fuel tank is too high. It means the fuel/air mix is coming out of the holes in the burner shell too fast – faster than the flame propagation speed. The risk here is that a gust of wind could actually blow the flame out. That said, the very broad area of the Primus Gravity MF burner makes it fairly unlikely that this could happen right across the burner at the same time.

Flame lift-off can happen when you open the control valve too far and the fuel pressure is high. Under these conditions the jet of fuel is traveling very fast and can drag in a lot of air, such that the gas flow out of the burner holes is traveling too fast. This can happen when the canister is too warm or the fuel bottle has been pumped too hard. As explained below, Primus recommends you do not pump the fuel bottle too much.

Flame lift-off does not seem to happen when the jet is too large. I believe this is because the larger jet means the gas velocity is lower, and this means it is not able to drag enough air with it. That is, the air inlets beside the jet are not large enough for the flow of fuel. The result is that the fuel/air mix coming out of the burner shell is far too rich, and this leads to the long yellow flames. Anyhow, opening the control valve too far is something you should not do.

Turning the fuel from the tank off can be done the same way as for a canister, but Primus has added a simple but very nice feature which lets you drain the fuel line before stopping. The black plastic header on the pump has the words ‘ON’ and ‘OFF’ embossed on the rim. When the word ON is facing upwards, the fuel intake is at the bottom of the tank and the stove runs normally. But if you flip the tank over, so the word OFF is uppermost, the fuel intake is at the top, above the fuel, in the air-space. Let the stove run like this for a short while and the remaining liquid fuel in the line will be exhausted, and the stove will go out. The connection at the pump rotates to permit this flipping easily.

If you don’t do this, you can find quite a lot of potentially flammable fuel dribbling out of the hose and on the ground around you, and this can be very dangerous! It also generates a lot of fumes which stink badly. Finally, it will probably also leak a bit of residual fuel inside your pack.

In practice, I found that it takes about a minute to drain the fuel line, at fairly high power. For someone counting grams of fuel, this extra burn-time can add up. You need to anticipate some time in advance when you will be finished cooking. I note that other stoves mostly seem to have thinner preheat tubes which hold less fuel anyhow, and this seems a good idea.

Pump Pressure

The instructions which come with the stove specify 15-20 pump strokes for a ‘full’ tank of fuel. Read the Instructions! I can run the stove satisfactorily with only 12 pump strokes and a full tank, although the peak power is not high. That suits me fine. With 20 strokes the stove is going strongly on either liquid fuel, with only a little yellow at the very tips of the flames. I believe this is just getting to the point where the air inlets are starting to limit the mixture. With 40 strokes, which is considerably more than specified, the flames are dancing around the place and very often quite yellow. High pressure also leads to the sputtering noises. The message here is quite clear: do not over-pressurise the tank.

It is worth noting that throttling a liquid fuel is quite different from throttling gaseous fuel. A far smaller flow of liquid is required for the same amount of vapour. The valve on the Gravity MF seems to be the one designed for controlling butane/propane gas from an upright canister, so that much finer adjustments are needed to control a liquid fuel. If the tank pressure is too high even finer control is needed, and I found this to be very difficult. But the manual does warn against using a high tank pressure.

White Gas

Primus specifies the 0.40 millimetre size jet for white gas. It will also run with the 0.35 jet, just at lower peak power. The normal method for lighting such a stove with white gas is to let a little fuel out into a priming cup and to light that, to warm up the preheat tube. However, the fuel line usually starts off empty, so you have to flush the air out of it first. To do this safely you really need to be able to see the jet, to detect when the fuel starts coming out. However, with the design of this stove you cannot see the jet, and cannot see when fuel starts coming out the jet. This means you cannot see how much fuel has come out, and releasing too much is easy. The results of my first few attempts to light the stove with white gas were therefore somewhat in the nature of a fireball. The first attempt was quite a shock in fact.

Practice does improve on this, and there is a faint hiss when the liquid hits the jet which helps, but it is hard to avoid a bit of a flare-up. In addition, the fuel is initially retained inside the burner, out of sight. This can lead you to thinking there is no fuel inside the burner, and releasing more. This means it can take several minutes to get the stove running on white gas – while the fireball dies down. Primus suggests that the priming fuel will be burnt out in about 45 seconds for white gas, but my experience is that the time is usually longer – and variable.

In the end, I found it best to just barely fill the preheat tube with fuel and then to prime the stove with a small amount of alcohol. This warms the metal-work up enough that some white gas vapour starts coming out of the holes in the shell, and then the stove slowly gets going. Certainly, using a little alcohol means far less of a fireball every time, although I never managed to gauge the amount of fuel in the preheat tube perfectly.

Once the stove is running, the flame can be adjusted from low to high settings. At full throttle with a low tank pressure there may be a little bit of flame lift-off in places around the burner, but it is not enough to cause a worry. Fairly fine adjustment of the valve is needed to get good control, and the higher the tank pressure the more difficult this is. Low tank pressure is required for good operation. The stove runs quite well on white gas, although control is delicate and lighting it seems to me to be distinctly hazardous. I certainly would not light it inside or even anywhere near my tent, and I would be very careful inside a building.

Kerosene

Primus Gravity MF Stove REVIEW - 5 A very sooty stove after priming and running on kerosene.

This fuel is popular with experienced cold-weather travelers who dislike the fireballs associated with white gas. It is popular in the Arctic and Antarctic, and in remote countries like Nepal. I have used it a lot as well, before switching to canisters. The Gravity MF can burn this fuel, but my experiences here were very poor. Primus specifies the 0.35 millimetre jet for kerosene. I did try using the 0.40 jet once, by mistake – it was a bad idea with long flames everywhere. Don’t do it.

One can light a kerosene stove using the same kerosene as the priming fuel, but this is very haphazard and sooty, and tends to make the stove very dirty. The Primus instructions suggest doing it this way, opening the valve ‘for a short time.’ Experienced users always use alcohol or a priming paste to prime a kerosene stove – to get the preheat tube hot. To do this safely you do need to start with a cold stove, otherwise there is alcohol vapour everywhere.

The normal method for lighting a kerosene stove with alcohol is to open the valve briefly to let the fuel line just fill up to the jet with kerosene, then add a teaspoon or so of alcohol in the priming region. The alcohol flame heats up the preheat tube and the jet. As the kerosene heats up it starts to expand and vaporize, come out the jet, mix with the alcohol and vaporize on any hot metal, and slowly take over the priming. However, in this case the jet and the end of the pre-heat tube are concealed inside the burner, and are not pre-heated all that well. I am unable to see when the kerosene reaches the jet, so I don’t know how much liquid kerosene is inside the burner. The kerosene near the jet stays fairly cool as well. The end result is usually quite a smoky flame for some time before the vapour from further up the line reaches the jet. This makes the stove rather sooty.

Primus Gravity MF Stove REVIEW - 6 Sooty base to pot from kerosene flames.

I find that a fair bit of priming is needed with kerosene, and some of the alcohol always flows across the flat base plate to one of the legs, and then runs down the leg to the ground. Sometimes the alcohol on the ground catches alight, other times it doesn’t. This is a bit risky: perhaps paste would be better. If I don’t use enough alcohol for the priming the stove doesn’t light, but the metal is then too hot to safely add more alcohol for a while. So starting this stove with kerosene takes a fair bit of practice. Frankly, I found it erratic.

I would not try to light this stove on kerosene anywhere near my tent, and I would be very careful about starting it inside a building. If there isn’t a large smoky flare, there is a strong smell of kerosene. As with white gas, the priming process can take a while as the fireball has to die down before cooking can start. The Primus instructions suggest 90 seconds for the priming, but I found it was very variable.

The stove is equally sensitive to over-pressure in the tank when running on kerosene. Too much pressure and the flames are often quite yellow at the tips. The yellow flames imply incomplete combustion, making lots of soot. I did check whether the highly lethal carbon monoxide was being generated, but the meter did not detect any. The yellow flames from over-pressure also make a distinct mess on any pot, and the sputtering sound is there too. In addition, at high pressure it is very hard to control the flow of fuel for a low flame. Running the stove on kerosene with the tank at very low pressure does produce a fairly clean blue flame at most settings. Giving the tank a few more pumps does increase the power output, and this is probably the best way of using the stove on kerosene: start at a very low pressure and increase carefully, but not too far.

Changing the Jet

In principle, changing the jet is simple: undo one screw (at the tip of the green arrow in the third picture) and the stove comes apart. However, this was not so simple all the time. When I went to change over from white gas to kerosene I found that this screw was seriously jammed. No screwdriver was able to undo the screw the full way. This problem could not be handled in the field.

I tried WD40 lubricant and all sorts of machine-shop persuasions, to no joy. Eventually I had to machine away the sides of the head of the screw and use a pair of vice-grips to extract it. I found serious damage at the bottom end of the steel screw where it had protruded below the end of the hardened steel nut at the top of the burner, but no damage to the nut itself. I do not know what caused this. I replaced the screw provided with a short stainless steel cup-head: the bottom end of this one does not protrude under the nut and (hopefully) should not suffer the same fate.

Boiling Times for White Gas and Kerosene

Primus does not specify boiling times for this stove on the box or in the instructions. I found I could raise the power output using a canister to the point where there were significant flames coming well up the side of my test kettle, but quoting a boil time with the flames this high is meaningless. Tests of the boiling times for white gas and kerosene gave rather variable results, once again depending on how high I wanted the flames.

In general I found that the peak power output with white gas and kerosene was slightly lower than for butane/propane mix, especially when using a low tank pressure. Owing to the wide range of results obtained on the test bench, I am unwilling to try to be more specific. Anyhow, I don’t subscribe to the machismo of boiling races – I prefer to gently simmer my dinner to perfection.

What’s Unique

  • The low height of the stove
  • The brilliant use of the standard canister screw-thread fitting for the connection to the pump
  • The ability of the valve to rotate about the hose
  • The ability to clear the fuel line before turning the stove off
  • The multi-fuel intent of the stove
  • Recommendations for Improvement

  • Eliminate the sputtering, whatever the cause (thinner hose?)
  • Make the jet visible to facilitate priming with white gas and kerosene
  • Alter (reduce?) the jet sizes to eliminate flame lift-off and the yellow flames
  • Change the geometry so the jet is heated during priming
  • Change the valve design to better throttle liquids
  • Use a low profile valve so canisters can be inverted easily
  • And of course, further reduce the weight
  • Coleman Fyrestorm Ti Stove REVIEW

    Innovative dual-fuel stove for canisters and white gas and variants that works very well with canister fuel and reasonably well with white gas.

    Introduction

    Coleman describes the Fyrestorm Ti as a multi-fuel stove, but it only handles canisters and white gas and variants; it does not handle kerosene. It can of course be used in the summer, but it has been specifically designed for winter use with the first inverted-canister attachment seen on the market. The stove itself has solid wide legs without being too heavy, but is not the lowest – read stability – around. The same connector is used for the tank and the canister support.

    What’s Good

    • Handles two fuels: canister gas and white gas ‘liquid’ fuel
    • Light weight, especially for a full-fledged winter stove
    • Solid stable design
    • Comprehensive spares kit
    • Jet changes not needed

    What’s Not So Good

    • Unique connector requires canister tripod at all times
    • Priming with white gas can fireball

    Specifications

       Manufacturer

    The Coleman Company, Inc

      Year/Model

    2006 Fyrestorm Ti (also Fyrestorm SS)

       Fuels

    Butane/propane mix, white gas and variants

       Power Output

    14,000 BTU/hr or 4.1 kW ( butane/propane canister),
    10,000 BTU/hr or 2.9 kW (white gas)

      Stove

    7.6 oz (216 g) for Ti version, made of brass, steel, titanium, magnesium alloy, braided fuel line

       Canister Tripod

    3.28 oz (93 g), brass, aluminium and magnesium alloy

      Pump and Fuel Bottle

    2.96 oz (84 g) for aluminium and plastic pump,
    4.20 oz (119 g) for aluminium tank, nominal capacity 22 fl oz

      Minimum Field Weight

    10.9 oz (310 g) with tripod for canister,
    14.8 oz (419 g) with pump and tank

      Boil Time

    Claimed: canister 3.2 minutes, liquid fuels 3.5 minutes

      Burn Time

    Claimed: canister 45 minutes, liquid fuels 75 minutes, on high

      Stove Leg Radius

    3.5 in (90 mm)

      Pot Support Arms

    Radius: 2.7 in (70 mm), Height above ground: 3.5 in (90 mm)

      Packing Size

    Claimed: 3 ¼ x 5 ¼ x 3 ¾ in (83 x 133 x 95 mm)

      Accessories

    Tank cap, spares kit, protective caps, bag, windshield, base plate

      MSRP

    US$190 (Ti), $150 (SS)

    Performance

    The Coleman Fyrestorm Ti stove is the second of a new-generation of flexible-hose ‘multi-fuel’ stoves I have seen, after the Primus Gravity MF stove. However, while it is nice to have a stove which can handle more than one fuel, I cannot say this really is a multi-fuel stove as it does not handle kerosene: dual-fuel would be more appropriate. Even so, it does give us a bit more flexibility in the field. In this case there are actually two models: the Fyrestorm Ti and the cheaper Fyrestorm SS.

    Coleman has used a custom screw connector to mate the hose to a conventional pump, and has created a compatible tripod stand for the standard screw-thread canister. However, their use of a screw-thread canister is not conventional: as recommended in our article Selecting a Canister Stove for Cold Weather Backpacking Part II: Commercially Available Canister Stove Systems, the canister is supported upside down! In this configuration, the canister also supplies a liquid feed to the stove. This means the Fyrestorm stove is a good candidate for winter use (see part I of the linked article above for an explanation why), alongside the existing Coleman Xtreme (which uses the PowerMax canister).

    In a second departure from convention the Fyrestorm uses not one but two control valves. There is a valve at the canister/tank connection and another one right at the stove. There are some very good reasons for the first valve. With a canister there must be a valve right at the connection, before the hose: without that it would be too easy to connect the tripod to a canister and have butane/propane mix spray everywhere. A similar problem exists when you disconnect the fuel line from a canister. Unless the fuel line is drained first, it could be full of liquefied gas ready to expand out from the open end of the hose. With a conventional fuel tank a similar problem exists: without a valve actually on the tank, you could have fuel spraying out from the pump when the fuel line is disconnected. In effect, any fuel source must have a valve to close it off, and this one does.

    The control valve at the stove is not a crucial safety requirement like the first one, but does change the stove from being finicky to adjust to being easy to operate. When the only valve is up at the other end of the fuel line, adjustments can be slow to take effect. It takes time for the fuel in the long line to reach a new equilibrium between the valve and the jet. This means it is hard to turn the stove down to a slow simmer without the flame going out. A valve right before the preheat tube, as on the Coleman Fyrestorm Ti, gives far better control.

    But the valve at the stove is not a conventional valve. The rotation of the control handle actually moves a length of wire which passes down the preheat tube to the jet. The position of this wire in the jet can throttle the gas flow through the jet and can clear the jet as well. Actually, the Coleman Peak Apex II stove has the same throttle/cleaning wire mechanism, and that stove has good simmer control even with kerosene. I have used one for many years. The wire survives very well inside the tube, and the action does keep the jet clean in most cases. Once when I poured water over the red-hot preheat tube I dislodged enough scale and gunge from the inside that the jet did block hopelessly – at night, in the snow. Cold dinner that night.

    Coleman Fyrestorm Ti Stove REVIEW
    The third valve, inside the connector

    I have described the Coleman Fyrestorm Ti stove as having two valves. This is not quite correct: it really has three. If you look very closely at the connector on the pump you will see a small brass pin sticking out, pointed to by the green arrow in the picture here. That pin is a shut-off valve which is normally kept sticking out in a closed position by an internal spring. Only when the hose is properly connected does this valve get pushed in and opened. So even if you pump up the tank and open the control valve on the tank, you still won’t get any fuel coming out. This idea is quite old: it’s used on the hose for my Coleman Peak Apex II stove from over 10 years ago. A similar shut-off valve is found on the tripod connection.

    One could argue that the conventional valves on the pump and the tripod are redundant as this third valve will protect the pumped tank and the canister. I don’t really agree: the conventional valves allow you to stop the flow of fuel down the hose without having to break the connection. This increases the safety of the design.

    The pump itself looks the same as the standard Coleman pump found on several other Coleman stoves, including my old Peak Apex II. The pump handle has the same hole at the top which you have to block with your thumb. However, the connection between the pump and the hose has been modified for the Fyrestorm. The modified connector on the pump is not removable – which is probably a good thing. The tank or fuel bottle looks the same too. It is labelled ‘22 fl oz bottle capacity, 16 fl oz operating capacity,’ and you are instructed that the fill level is ‘2/3 full.’ The numbers do not add up exactly, and I measured the bottle capacity as about 23 fluid ounces, but never mind.

    The stove itself is a solid thing. The three fold-out legs look big and solid – and heavy. They lock in their open position nicely. However, they are really a thin lattice of very light magnesium alloy painted black and with titanium pot supports riveted to them. I did consider trying to lighten the legs, but decided it simply was not worth the effort. There wasn’t enough solid metal to reduce. One criticism I did see is that the amount of space under the stove could be significantly reduced, thereby lowering the pot height, by an improvement in the part of the preheat tube under the stove. The length of the tube between the bottom bend and the jet surely could be reduced a bit. However, it can’t be reduced too far as this would upset the action of the throttle/cleaning wire.

    Coleman Fyrestorm Ti Stove REVIEW
    Side view of Fyrestorm stove, cooking dinner.

    The upper part of the preheat tube (clearly visible in the picture here) gets plenty of heat from the flame. Then it goes down under the stove and a final bend to point upwards in the conventional arrangement. To see this just follow the preheat tube downwards in the picture. The burner is a large diameter unit, but quite light. Under the burner shell itself there is a radiation shield which will protect the ground immediately underneath the stove from the heat. It has a notch in it for the preheat tube.

    Unlike the Primus Gravity MF, the Coleman Fyrestorm Ti stove is supplied with a single jet. You don’t get any tools with the stove because you don’t have to change anything when switching between the two fuels. One assumes this means they don’t expect the jet to block either. This seems reasonable as end-to-end operation of the stove control valve is meant to clear the jet.

    This is not the lowest stove I have ever seen, but the large radius on the legs and the strength of the legs make it very stable. I am not sure that the height of the stove matters too much anyhow, as long as the result is stable. And the pot supports grip aluminium pots nicely. The whole thing seemed very stable when I was stirring my dinner – see below.

    This stove is claimed to have a peak power output of about 4.2 kilowatts with a canister: one of the most powerful I have seen. I was not able to verify this claim. However, I never run my stoves flat out as that is very inefficient. I am not fussed whether it takes 3.5 or 4.5 minutes to bring my dinner to the boil. I prefer to make sure I don’t burn my dinner.

    Field Testing – Canister fuel

    Coleman Fyrestorm Ti Stove REVIEW
    The Fyrestorm cooking dinner with the inverted canister.

    Hooking up a canister in the field is very simple. I just remove the protective plastic caps from the connections on the tripod and screw it onto the canister. After I did this the first time it occurred to me to check whether the valve was shut. In the event it was, but if it hadn’t been shut the valve in the connector would have blocked any release of gas. There is much merit in this idea, but I am not going to rely on it every time. Then, having confirmed that the valve is indeed shut, I connect the hose to the tripod. Since the coupling ring for the hose spins freely I do not have to twirl the stove around: I can keep everything flat on the ground. The stove is now ready to light. I gently open the valve on the tripod while holding a butane lighter near the burner, and the stove is running.

    I found operation of the stove with the canister upside down on its tripod very straightforward, and the stove runs very smoothly. The operation is quite flexible, ranging from a very low flame suitable for a simmer to a quite aggressive flame for a very fast boil. The air inlets around the jet are quite large enough because the flames remain short (and blue) even at full power. This is very good. Control over the range using the valve at the stove is smooth and convenient, albeit with some hysteresis as mentioned below. The only caution I would mention is that I always start off with the flame on low, to allow the preheat tube to warm up. I don’t want liquid fuel coming out the jet! The preheat tube does warm up fairly quickly, actually getting very hot after a while as shown in the picture below. But I can put the pot on as soon as the stove is lit: I don’t have to wait.

    Coleman Fyrestorm Ti Stove REVIEW
    Flames and the glowing preheat tube.

    A small surprise was that the control valve at the stove does not turn right off: it only varies from simmer to roar. I had to think about this for a moment. I believe Coleman has done this deliberately so you can’t use the stove valve to turn off the flow of fuel: you must use the valve at the canister or pump. This means that the fuel line will drain through the burner flame, rather than venting suddenly later when you disconnect the hose. This is safe. However, it does mean I need to decide about 30 seconds early when I want to turn the stove off. Fortunately, the low setting is very low, suitable for a gentle simmer.

    I found that there is considerable hysteresis in the operation of the stove valve. That is, after turning the valve right down, I have to rotate the valve a considerable distance in the other direction to get any increase in power. This is normal, and is due to the movement of the wire inside the preheat tube. While this may be slightly irritating, the benefit is that the wire does automatically clean the jet at the same time.

    In the standard configuration I normally bring two cups of water (500 mL) to the boil from ‘room temperature’ in somewhere between four minutes and four and a half minutes. Sure, I can make it boil water considerably faster, but I choose to be economical with the fuel I carry, and that’s fast enough for two cups of coffee. When cooking dinner I usually have the stove turned down to a quite slow rate as well. The stew shown above was being cooked on Whipcrack Hill at about 1,000 metres (3,000 feet), in winter time. The pot lid is sitting on the canister for the picture; normally it would be on the pot.

    I often run my stove for short periods while cooking dinner, with gaps in between. Turning this stove off is simple and obvious – you just turn the valve at the tank off. However, there is that 30 second delay before the flame goes out, which makes managing it more complex than a simple ‘upright’ canister stove. Turning it back on is equally simple: turn on and light. You simply cannot do this short-burst operation with ‘liquid’ fuel stoves as they always need priming and warm-up, at a huge cost in wasted fuel. There is no priming with butane/propane mix: the Coleman Fyrestorm Ti is a very nice stove in this configuration.

    Field Testing – White Gas

    The stove burns Coleman Fuel, white gas and variants using a standard Coleman fuel tank and the slightly modified Coleman pump. I have exchanged the new tank for an old one from a Coleman Peak Apex without any problems. The pump is quite solid and works very easily – much more easily than some plastic pumps which seem to drag at the shaft. The two valves at the pump allow you to pump up the pressure without the stove connected.

    As usual, you only fill the tank two thirds full, so there is some air space to pressurize. That means you put about 16 fluid ounces of fuel in the bottle. There is a line on the outside marking this. The Coleman instructions have a really neat way of judging whether you have over-filled the tank. If your finger, stuck down through the opening, can touch the fuel, the tank is too full. Very simple! Coleman says you should give the pump 40 strokes before lighting the stove, and then, when it has warmed up, give it another 40 strokes. This is quite a high pressure. I suspect it might be difficult to over-pump as you have to use your thumb to seal a hole at the end of the pump to make it work.

    Deliberately priming the stove with alcohol is not that easy. It would be nice to be able to put a little alcohol on the radiation shield under the preheat tube, light it, and have the stove take off. But there is a long length of preheat tube below the stove, after the preheat zone, and a large solid jet arrangement. I found that these have to be at least a bit warm for the stove to work properly – otherwise the fuel will not vaporize at the jet well enough in cold weather. I am left to wonder whether the metal-work could be reduced in size a bit. I did find that the common ‘fireball’ priming technique is quite effective in getting the jet region hot enough in cold conditions. (This involves letting some fuel come out of the jet and dribble below the stove.) Fortunately, this does not seem to have affected the nice black paint on the stove legs, but it isn’t the sort of thing you do inside a tent or on a flammable surface.

    I found that it is possible to light the stove without the fireball method if the tank is pumped to a high pressure and the valve opened cautiously and the weather is not too cold. I can’t say it always worked perfectly, and there were fairly high flames on many occasions, but it is possible. I think this is how Coleman recommends lighting the stove.

    Once the stove was warmed up and burning, it seemed to run reasonably well. Sometimes there were some flickers of orange at the flame tips, which I do not like as they can spell trouble with carbon monoxide (more on this in a forthcoming article), but otherwise the flames were fairly short and blue, as with butane/propane fuel. If the flames weren’t short and blue I could usually correct that by giving the tank another 20 – 40 strokes of the pump. Yes, this stove needs a very high tank pressure.

    Like the connection on the Primus Gravity MF stove, the connection on the fuel line on the Fyrestorm can swivel around. One would like to think that this could be used to flip the tank and clear the fuel line before shutting the stove down, but this was not possible. Understanding why turned out to be a little complex.

    Coleman Fyrestorm Ti Stove REVIEW
    The fuel delivery tubes inside the tank – Coleman diagram.

    Fuel is picked up from the bottom of the tank at the aluminium elbow which sits down there, and exits via tube #2. A length of tube #3 projects up from this to the top of the tank. Initially I thought that tube #3 was just to keep the elbow at the bottom of the tank, but it turned out that the elbow contains a complex little valve which can allow fuel to be collected either at the elbow or at the tip of tube #3. Why this is included I do not know, but anyhow it prevents me from clearing the line by tipping the tank upside down. Fuel just keeps flowing.

    What was more interesting was that sometimes the stove made a chuff-chuff noise and the flames flickered in sympathy. (In Australia stoves used to be known as ‘choofers’ because some of them did this.) Listening closely to the tank, I could hear the source of this flickering: the little valve in the elbow was clicking away.

    Under some conditions I could also hear a spluttering noise from the stove. I am fairly sure this was being made as the fuel hit the very hot part of the line and flash-boiled. It did not seem to present a hazard.

    While the stove does run satisfactorily with white gas, I have to say that running it with a canister is so much simpler and cleaner there is just no comparison in my mind. It is also more efficient and lighter.

    Field Testing – Kerosene

    This stove is not specified for use with kerosene. I did try it, but the stove simply could not get enough air to mix with the fuel, and very long orange flame resulted most of the time. This is not a kerosene stove.

    Safety Warnings

    The manual for this stove presents some fascinating contradictions. At the front of the manual there are no less than eighteen text blocks with headings like “Danger” and “Warning”. This is surely a massive overkill, to the point of being seriously counter-productive. No-one is going to read through all those repeated warnings. In particular, there are several warnings to never use the stove “in an enclosed space such as a camper, tent, car or home.” One might think this was a bit extreme, considering what use the stove is meant for. However, on the fuel tank in huge lettering the following is found: “This camp stove consumes air. To ensure its safe and proper operation, provide a fresh air opening of at least 10 square inches.” Simple, direct, and easy to follow.

    I will strongly endorse the recommendation about 10 square inches of ventilation, and I will also recommend that you do not try to prime this stove inside a tent.

    What’s Unique

    • The tripod for holding a standard screw-thread canister inverted for winter use – brilliant!
    • The custom hose connector with built-in shut-off valve – safe!
    • The very solid but very light magnesium alloy stove and tripod legs
    • The fire-proof paint on the legs of the stove

    Recommendations for Improvement

    • Reduce the amount of metal between the preheat zone and the jet
    • Lower the stove by reducing the pipe length near the jet
    • Allow the fuel line to be cleared by inverting the tank
    • Further reduce the weight – of course

    Integral Designs eVENT Crysallis (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    Looking for a bivy sack made out of eVENT fabric? Take your pick at Integral Designs.

    Integral Designs eVENT Crysallis (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The Crysallis with zippered no-see-um netting under the zippered eVENT cover.

    Overview

    Integral Designs expands their line of eVENT fabric bivy sacks. Their Crysallis Bivy is now available in eVENT, joining the ultralight Overbag and Micro Bivy, the technical South Col and Bugaboo, and the palatial (by bivy standards anyway) Unishelter.

    The Crysallis is Integral Designs’ foul weather bivy. Featuring a rear facing tunnel vent and an absence of skyward facing zippers, the Crysallis can be fully zipped up and provide a totally waterproof and well ventilated shelter. Situated between the sparse sub-20 ounce Overbag/Micro Bivy and the 31 ounce Unishelter, the eVENT Crysallis rounds out Integral Designs line of eVENT bivy shelters – the most extensive in the industry.

    With its wire-stiffened dome, the Crysallis creates almost as much space inside as the larger and heavier Unishelter with its curved aluminum pole. Also, unlike the Unishelter, it can be deployed without any stakes.

    Integral Designs eVENT Crysallis (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 2
    In storm mode, side-oriented waterproof zippers seal out precipitation, while the tunnel vent and breathable eVENT fabric reduce condensation.

    Specifications and Features

    • Length: 90 in fits to 6 ft, 7 in
    • Width: 30 in at shoulders, 22 in at foot
    • Girth: 74 in at shoulders, 52 in at foot
    • BPL Measured Weight: 24.9 oz (706 g)
    • Wire stiffener over head area
    • Rear-facing tunnel vent
    • Continuous zipper with dual sliders
    • No-see-em netting backed top

    Apparel Trends and Highlights

    Trends and highlights in lightweight apparel from Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006.

    Soft Shells

    The industry seems to be giving up on promoting new soft shell technologies – at least those that are defined as true softshells, made with highly breathable stretch-woven nylon fabrics, such as Schoeller Dryskin and similar air-permeable fabrics. However, one interesting soft shell jacket seems to set a new benchmark, at least in aesthetic design, if not function for the weight.

    With the industry moving increasingly towards “soft shells” that have “stretch” and “waterproofness” in them, the category continues to flounder in an identity crisis. As successful as original soft shells like the Cloudveil Serendipity were, it’s clear that most industry professionals view soft shells as a “stretch” category of apparel, with no indication whatsoever towards what the original air permeable soft shell fabrics offered in terms of increased breathability. Consequently, when we asked manufacturers to show me their new soft shell fabrics, they almost universally brought out raingear made with waterproof stretchwovens rather than anything made with air permeable fabrics.

    Refreshingly, one company still held onto the concept and offered us a refreshing look at an interesting category for winter soft shells – the hooded jacket.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The North Face Apex Kinetic Jacket

    The North Face Apex Kinetic Jacket’s most interesting feature is its construction, it’s 100% welded. Performance claims for seam-free technologies vary from the reasonable to the absurd, but a 100% welded garment offers notable advantages in terms of maximizing aesthetics (cleaner and more interesting visual lines), and minimizing bulk (more important for soft-shell fabrics, rather than thin wovens). Still unknown are the field-tangible benefits that seam-free technology offers at minimizing weight, improving durability, and increasing waterproofness. The North Face Apex Kinetic Jacket is a winter class softshell that weighs 24.7 ounces. The jacket’s weight announces its feature set: insulating, air-permeable fabric (140d 240 g/m2 double weave nylon/polyester), abrasion resistant fabrics to reinforce the shoulders, lower arms, and hips (70d x 40d, 4.6 oz/yd2 84% nylon, 16% elastane), hood, left Napoleon pocket, two handwarmer pockets, and adjustable cuffs and hem. This feature set comes at approximately the same weight of the Cloudveil Icefloe with far more performance, some more warmth, and better fit and aesthetics. At this weight, it’s sure to absorb significant amounts of water and thus, may be limited to done-in-a-day winter activities.

    The category of “hiking clothing”, or more commonly known as “travel clothing” is one of the most boring, cluttered markets around. How to even define this category? Anything that doesn’t fit into any other category? Clothes for fly fishing tourists? Included in this category are garments such as Supplex nylon shirts, zip-off travel pants, and Tilley hats. The category is defined by manufacturers that cater to the mass-market consumer that wants to look like they spend a lot of time out of doors (including the small fraction of their customer bases that actually do), including the likes of Ex Officio, Rail Riders, Cabela’s, and Orvis. In spite of the Ten Thousand Pieces of Apparel That All Look Alike in this category, we somehow force ourselves to weed out some of the good stuff, and we found a couple of soft shell gems at ORSM’06.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 2
    Royal Robbins Global Traveler Pant

    The first is a zip-off pant. “Good Lord,” you say, “not another zip off pant”. But, get this: it’s a soft shell pant, and it comes in a women’s version. It’s not the first zip-off soft shell pant (the first was the Cloudveil Inertia Plus Spinner Wading Pant, marketed primarily to, ahem, the fly fishing community), but at least we now have a choice, and the category is officially born. The Royal Robbins Global Traveler Pant (women’s) is made with a low-rise waist using a napped soft shell fabric, zip off legs, side zip entry, two front pockets, back pocket, convertible pocket/stuff sack, zippered leg openings, articulated knee, and weighs 11-12 ounces. MSRP is $65, availability is January 2007.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 3
    Mountain Hardwear Ascent Shirt

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 4
    Mountain Hardwear Talus Short

    The second is more interesting, perhaps. Mountain Hardwear will be offering a long sleeve, button up collared shirt (the Mountain Hardwear Ascent) and matching short (the Mountain Hardwear Talus) set. These are breathable, stretch-woven garments that weigh 9 oz each, and look sharp: they have welded seams, a new technology in this category. MSRP is $130/$95. Dang, it costs coin to look good sometimes.

    Wind Shirts

    “In the beginning” (six years ago), the wind shirt category was defined by the introduction of the Montane FeatherLite, a 3-ounce long sleeve pullover made with a wispy nylon fabric (Pertex Microlight) and sporting a ridiculously short neck zipper barely suitable for pulling the short over your head, let alone venting.

    Like a snail inching towards nowhere, so too did wind shirt design. Rab, GoLite, and another model from Montane (the Aero) offered the same non-feature set. These four wind shirts all weighed less than three ounces, they all had long sleeves, they all offered short zippers, and they all were a real pain for most users to don and doff and vent.

    But we loved them. Their simplicity belied their real function: adding tremendous warmth and wind resistance to a clothing system for the additional weight of a pair of moldy Power Bars.

    And none of us really cared that the zippers were short or no features were there.

    Until Montane introduced yet another wind shirt – the Lightspeed Jacket. A full-zippered hooded jacket made with “wind shirt fabrics”. This of course, was a brilliant move that opened up the utility of the wind shirt to far more situations. The long zipper allowed for excellent venting, the hood provided more protection in the cold, and the weight penalty was not so severe. The conditions in which we could now wear a wind shirt were dramatically expanded. Marmot followed suit with the Ion, made with Pertex Quantum, that shaved an ounce and a half off the weight of the Lightspeed, but at the expense of less durable fabric and a belly-button exposing fit. GoLite blended the best of both worlds, we thought, with their 3.5-ounce Ether, but took it in the shorts from most of our readers by making it out of what we affectionately termed “sauna” fabric – an acrylic-coated woven that breathed so poorly we found the Ether to be reasonable rainwear. At the time, MontBell and Outdoor Research was entering the game by filling the final remaining market niche – wind shirts with no hoods and full zippers – and destroying their performance as well with the acrylic fabrics (which MontBell still uses to this day). Fortunately, that fabric didn’t last for GoLite, and they replaced it with the more breathable Wisp (and Wisp HP), which were a hit.

    However, one should realize that until now, no perfect, full-function, highly breathable wind shirt existed. Where oh where are the highly breathable, full zip, hooded wind shirts with a hem long enough to actually function as a cool-weather jacket? When Ryan was shopping for these features in a wind shirt for a recent June trek in the Western Arctic, he reverted to his old Lightspeed.

    ORSM’06 offers promise.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 5
    GoLite Ether Wind Jacket

    The GoLite Ether pullover has been a staple in GoLilte’s product line for several years now, and gets a facelift in 2007. The 20 denier calendared polyester Wisp HP remains, thankfully: Wisp HP feels comfortable against the skin and provides sufficient breathability for a backpacking wind shirt. Better, however, is a full length zipper. With its longer length, the Ether may become one of the more functional and breathable wind shirts around. Plus, it does all this without bloating: it’s still only 3.5 ounces. Perhaps the best news: Fifty bucks for the GoLite Ether Wind Jacket.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 6
    Marmot Ion Wind Jacket

    The Marmot Ion Wind Shirt stays in Marmot’s product line. It’s a wind shirt that our readers either love (for its 3 ounce weight) or hate (for its too-trim and too-short torso fit). The ’07 Ions (Marmot claims) will offer a better DWR without sacrificing breathability (for how many years have we been hearing that one?). And, like GoLite, the Ion goes on a price diet: it’s fifty bucks, too.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 7
    MontBell U.L. Wind Parka and Vest

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 8
    Mountain Hardwear Ghost Wind Shirt

    MontBell retains sauna (a polyamide-treated) fabric in their wind shirts but also introduces a full zip hooded wind shirt (the creatively named MontBell U.L Wind Parka) that weighs 3.1 ounces. They also go the opposite direction and offer an ultralight full-zip wind vest. Its only real competition is the 1.9-ounce Montane wind vest, which is made with more breathable Pertex Quantum (and has been on the market for a year already), and the ridiculously heavy 3-ounce Mountain Hardwear Ghost Vest pullover, which sports unnecessary wind shirt features (common on Arc’Teryx offerings, which we can’t even consider ultralight wind shirts), a chest pocket, brushed tricot lining on the neck, and an open weave mesh back panel. The Mountain Hardwear wind vest is 50% heavier than its competitors. Mountain Hardwear also offers a new wind shirt: 4 oz, pullover, same tricot mesh neck lining, same open weave mesh back, no hood, and (cough) four ounces (sic).

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 9
    Outdoor Research Synergy Wind Shirt

    Outdoor Research is coming around and abandoning sauna fabrics this year in their wind shirts. Interestingly, OR improves breathability with a new fabric, but retains the older, hooded pullover design (the Outdoor Research Synapse Wind Shirt), and their price goes the other direction by $30 up to an outrageous $119. At 3.3 oz for a $119 hooded pullover you could outfit a family of four with GoLite or Marmot full-zip hooded wind shirts and still not be able to buy two OR models.

    Rainwear

    Ultralight rainwear options five years ago consisted of a handful of 10-12 ounce offerings including the Red Ledge Thunderlight, the GoLite Newt, the Marmot Precip, and a few others. If you wanted to break the 10-ounce barrier, you had to opt for poorly durable nonwoven polypropylene fabrics, and the abysmal fit and styling, of products like Frogg Toggs and Rainshield.

    Now, most of the major manufacturers of ultralight gear offer sub-10 ounce, full-zip, hooded rain jackets made with woven nylon fabrics and emplying waterproof breathable technologies that may not offer the performance of eVENT, but hold their own well enough for three season backpacking.

    Currently, the benchmarks for ultralight raingear are held by Patagonia (with the 6.5-ounce Specter hooded pullover), Outdoor Research (7.5 ounce full zip hooded Zealot), and Marmot (7.0 ounce full zip hooded Essence). Sierra Designs claims the lightest weight crown with its NanoLite (4.5 ounces), but not without seriously sacrificing breathability, and GoLite announced the six-ounce Virga at ORWM’06 (full zip hooded jacket with no pockets and a two-layer fabric). All of these jackets (except the NanoLite and prototype Virga announced six months ago) are made with 2.5-layer fabrics.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 10
    GoLite Virga Jacket

    Ryan took the GoLite Virga Jacket prototype on his Arctic trek, and claimed that “it worked well enough” for the high winds and rain of Northwestern Alaska, but the fabric was not without its durability problems. He took a second prototype, chopped off the arms, and created a pullover from the full zip, and brought it down to four ounces. The additional ventilation and simplicity “are nice” he says, for summertime weather conditions. The new Virga (coming to the market in Fall 2006) gets a minor facelift, adding pockets, and better fabric (2.5 layer). Unfortunately, its promised six-ounce weight is not to be (the production Virga will be closer to 8.5 or 9.0 ounces).

    The matching pant, the GoLite Reed Pant, gains a few tenths of an ounce with ankle zips. This change will certainly cause some to swear and others to drop to their knees in worship of Designers Who Recognize the Value of Ankle Zips. Still, at their weights and prices ($80 and $70 respectively), the newer Virga and Reeds are worth a hard look. The Virga + Reed, at $150 and 15 ounces for the combo, is an incredible deal for any ultralight backpacker.

    The Sierra Designs NanoLite Jacket is now “fixed” (although “fixed” wasn’t the exact term used by Sierra Designs…something about “upgraded”). They now (after the third iteration) claim that the fabric is finally waterproof, and they seam-taped the pockets, a big oversight on the ’06 production runs.

    We were really looking forward to the announcement of a sub-10-ounce 3-layer pullover from Patagonia’s Grade VI series, but fabric problems are tabling the project for a while. And, since rumor has it that the Specter is disappearing altogether soon (grab them now), Patagonia’s play in the ultralight raingear market may be to fold their hand until 2008.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 11
    The North Face Diad Jacket

    Of the more interesting rain jackets on the market is The North Face Diad Jacket. TNF announced some modifications for it that will appear in the 2007 model to both clean it up and improve its performance. For 8.5 ounces, you get rain jacket with a tremendous fit (well-articulated, excellent adjustable hood, mid-length hem, long enough arms), welded seam technology, core vents, chest Napoleon pocket, dual handwarmer pockets, 2.5-layer fabric, adjustable cuffs, and a drawcord hem. Where on earth does this product save weight? In its remarkable 15d fabric, branded “HyVent DT” (note the similarity to the excellent Entrant DT fabric, which has breathability rivaling eVENT). Unfortunately, TNF ruins the photography experience with its reflective logos. Regardless, this will be a jacket to watch for in the coming season.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 12
    GoLite Phantasm Jacket

    GoLite’s Phantom is one of the full-featured rain jackets in the 13-ounce class that offers excellent performance and features for the weight, but at a price ($220). The new GoLite Phantasm is in the same family of fabrics (Gore-Tex PacLite III) but offers a simpler design (eliminating the pit zips and core vents). The result: a $180 Gore-Tex jacket with full coverage (long hem, long sleeves, big hood) that weighs 11 ounces.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 13
    GoLite Gamut Jacket

    While few manufacturers are pushing true soft shell (air permeable) garments, the entire industry is searching for a slice of the so-called waterproof soft shell pie. This pie, however, is a rather small one that seems unappealing to the mass market: these garments are not cheap. GoLite saw an opportunity not only to increase the size of the pie, but their piece of the pie in particular. They announced the Trinity series, highlighted by the GoLite Gamut Jacket for men, a fully waterproof soft shell rain jacket for – get this – a hundred bucks and only 12 ounces. The Trinity series also includes the Paradigm jacket (16 oz, pit zips, more pockets), the Enigma zip pullover (10 oz), and the Paradox pant with ankle zips (12 oz), and equivalent styles for women.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 14
    Integral Designs eVENT Thru-Hiker Jacket

    Speaking of eVENT, Integral Designs, who launched a 10-ounce eVENT jacket (full zip, hooded) last year, adds to the mix with a nonhooded eVENT shirt (pullover style, non-hooded, 9 oz) and a more functional backpacking jacket (long hem, adjustable hood, chest pocket) in its 11.5-ounce Thru-Hiker model.

    Insulating Clothing

    Some years, Outdoor Retailer is flush with puffies, other years, it’s barren with new insulating clothing. This year, there’s not much to talk about.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 15
    MontBell Down T-Shirt

    Patagonia is adding a down sweater vest (7 oz) to their ultralight down garment line, and MontBell is bringing their quirky but radically different down t-shirt (15d shell, 800 fill down, dual handwarmer pockets, fully-separating snap front) that weighs only 5.9 oz. The latter was a garment they produced exclusively for the Japanese market, but when they snuck it to us under the table last year, we begged and pleaded for them to bring it to the U.S. So, to MontBell, we say, “Thanks, fellas.”

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 16
    Valandré Looping Vest

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 17
    Valandré Split-S Jacket

    In a quieter corner of the show floor, Valandré, from their tiny booth featuring the slogan “Saint Hot as Hell” perched over a polar sleeping bag that looks like it levitates on its own, they whisper about new garments coming in early 2007 that should raise the eyebrows of Western Mountaineering Flight Jacket and Vest fans. The Valandré Looping Vest and Split-S Jacket will feature fully-baffled construction, 850+ fill down, and ultralight fabrics. With 80g of fill in the vest and 160g of fill in the jacket, the new Valandré garments should give WM a run for its money – and weight.

    Merino Wool

    Remember how excited we were about merino wool five, or even three, years ago? The excitement hasn’t waned. Virtually 100% of our staff has converted to merino. Ryan squeezed Smartwool for a few Shadow Hoodies for Roman Dial and Jason Geck for their recent trek across the Arctic. Roman and Jason were both die-hard synthetic fans. After the trek, Roman said rather matter of factly that he’s switching to wool, for its comfort, warmth, and range of temperature regulation.

    And so, it’s not that we’re bored with wool – quite the opposite, in fact. It’s just that it’s starting to all look alike, and new manufacturers are coming out with the same old styles and not doing anything particularly creative.

    That’s why when we get wind of something unique, we are eager to check it out.

    Move over, Victoria’s Secret. You ain’t got nothin’ on this.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 18
    Ibex Women’s Bra and Panties

    Ibex promises that by this time next year, beautiful women tramping (that’s a New Zealand term for walking, you know) through the wilderness will be sporting wool bras, panties, and thongs. MSRP’s are $22.50 (thong or panties) and $49.00 (bra).

    We’re glad you made it through the last few paragraphs, because more interesting news follows: wool is getting lighter.

    Three companies introduce garments made with the new benchmark in ultralight merino wool fabrics: Patagonia (reviewed in detail elsewhere), Icebreaker, and Smartwool. All of these fabrics are 140-150 g/m2. Patagonia and Icebreaker are launching comprehensive lines, while Smartwool (who terms their version “Tissue” weight merino) is releasing it only for women in a few hip styles that are notably not targeted for mountain performance (including a tank top and striped scoop shirt).

    Cocona

    In Longmont, Colorado, a tiny technology company called Traptek has been quietly developing a very interesting invention: Cocona.

    Traptek crushes coconut shells into tiny bits and turns it into an activated carbon. By incorporating crushed coconut into fiber polymers and fabric yarns, it has created the potential for fabrics to wick, resist UV degradation, and absorb odor better than any synthetic fiber treatment seen to date. Cocona technology is licensed by Burlington, Cannondale, GoLite, and Marmot. The latter two manufacturers presented their first garments using Cocona-treated fabrics at ORSM’06.

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 19
    GoLite Dri-Mov Shirt with Cocona (note dark color on inner surface resulting from Cocona carbon treatment)

    Apparel Trends and Highlights (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 20
    Marmot Cocona Travel Shirt and Convertible Travel Pants

    GoLite is using Cocona on all of their Dri-Mov base layers, but only on the inner surface. Marmot, on the other hand, is impregnating Cocona throughout their garments. They too, will add Cocona to their baselayers, but not for some time – their first Cocona products will be woven nylon hiking/travel clothing.

    Cocona’s benefits seem numerous, but it’s still too early to tell if it’s going to be a lasting technology or another passing fad. Here are the claims:

    • Cocona treated fibers wick moisture 50% faster than all leading polyester moisture management fabrics
    • Cocona provides longer-lasting odor resistance via odor absorption than other anti-microbial technologies available for synthetic fibers
    • Cocona’s activated carbon never washes out of the garment
    • Cocona provides 50+ SPF UVA/UVB protection, enhancing UV resistance of ultralight mesh garments
    • Cocona is natural, non-toxic, and environmentally sensitive

    Footwear

    Finally, footwear.

    We’ve covered a handful of specific technologies in detail (see dispatches about new shoes from Salomon, GoLite, and Inov-8), but one trend in particular is clear. The number of shoes with integrated gaiter systems has increased dramatically in recent years, from zero to many.

    La Sportiva, Salomon, Inov-8, Timberland (who entered, with the Delerion Pro, and promptly exited, after half a season), and a handful of others have all been developing integrated shortie gaiters with their running shoes in the past year.

    This is a positive advance in trail shoe technology. Here’s why.

    Short, breathable gaiters are very useful when combined with a trail shoe for adventure racing, trail running or lightweight backpacking. They keep dust, mud, pebbles, scree, pine needles, and other debris out of the shoe, which means less fiddling with your feet during a race or run or trek. Keeping debris out of the shoe means that your feet will stay healthier during the duration of your activity – debris tends to cause blisters and sores in subtle ways, without you knowing about it (or doing anything about it) until it’s too late.

    The traditional means of dealing with this has been to use aftermarket shortie gaiters, usually made of a stretchwoven soft shell material (e.g., Spandura or Schoeller Dynamic). These gaiters have the awful under-the-strap retention system that alpine climbers have grown to hate: straps wear out fast. You can replace them with new straps, or replace them with more durable products, such as Spectra cord or bailing wire, but the result is always the same: the straps always fail when you don’t want to deal with replacement!

    And so, companies have devised various strategies to eliminate the gaiter strap.

    Timberland (in the Delerion Pro) and Inov-8 (in prototypes that we reported on from ORWM’06) have piloted technologies based on rail systems, by which plastic rails were sewn to gaiter cuff hems, and those rails slid into receiving (female) slots fixed to the shoe. In theory, the concept is sound, and adds flexibility to the system, because the gaiters can be used when needed, left home or in the pack when not. In practice, the concept is fraught with limitations, not the least of which is the temperature dependence of rail-slot fit. In cold weather, sliding gaiters onto Delerion Pro’s was a nightmare. And if the rail slots clogged with mud, forget getting your gaiter on until you used something else, like the blade of a knife, or a pressure washer, to clean them.

    La Sportiva solves that problem with new shoes this year by which the gaiters clip to rings attached to the shoe. A total of four clips makes the process something more than trivial. I can’t imagine what it’s like with cold fingers.

    Now, let’s regroup for a moment. Once you slide a gaiter onto its rails, or clip it onto its shoe, why even bother to remove it again? They are so unobtrusive, so effective at what they do, and in all but the hottest conditions, so breathable, that there are few situations where you’d ever take one off in the field (except to repair the attachment system, perhaps!).

    Over the past two years, Ryan has been eliminating gaiter straps altogether and sewing his gaiters directly to his shoes, a technique that has been used by adventure racers and wilderness runners for years. The result is a perfect seal, no parts to break, and added simplicity in the foot “system”.

    It seems that Salomon has finally implemented just such a gaiter-shoe combo. The Salomon the XA 3D Pro weighs about 12 ounces per shoe (including gaiter), and combines both an outstanding and proven shoe technology (the XA series) with an excellent, stretchy, breathable, side-entry gaiter. This one is going to be a winner.

    The question will be asked: “what happens when the gaiter wears out?” That’s a good question, because the gaiter will certainly wear out before the shoe. The answer may not appeal to some, but is a simple one: get out your needle and thread. Hopefully, Salomon will provide some support to their XA gaiter-shoe customers to walk them through this process. But don’t count on it.

    An interesting adaptation of integrated gaiter technology shown at ORSM’06 was a gaiter-sock combination by Inov-8. This was a simple running sock (available in either synthetic or merino wool) with a roll-down cuff that secured over the top of the shoe to form the seal. This concept is based on the common practice, first used by Marathon Des Sables runners, of wearing a second sock (with the foot cut out) over their ankles to keep sand out of their shoes. It’s a lightweight (1.3 oz for the sock/gaiter combo), breathable, good fitting solution, but not as secure or durable as a sewn, stretchwoven gaiter, and unfortunately, requires an underfoot elastic cord for security.

    In spite of its rail-slot limitations, the Delerion Pro was a revered shoe. Very limited production resulted in quite a lot of pent up demand for the shoe – and its integrated gaiter. Unfortunately, Timberland, who developed the shoe in concert with the adventure racing team GoLite/Timberland, ended production on the shoe, promising a replacement at ORSM’06. Well, we got the replacement, sort of, in an entirely new line of shoes, branded as GoLite Footwear. They shared some features with the Delerion Pro, but none of the new models included an integrated gaiter.’

    Wearing Green

    The final trend we are observing is that more companies are taking environmental sustainability into consideration when bringing apparel to market. Environmentally responsible fabric treatments, such as Cocona, get lucky – they offer excellent performance without adding a dramatic amount of weight or cost. Unfortunately, not all green technologies are as effective or as cheap. Climashield, a new continuous filament polyester insulation, offers Climashield Green, which is made from 30% or more post-consumer recycled fibers, and offers it without significant cost premiums. Unfortunately, it’s not available in Climashield XP, their highest performance-to-weight insulation product. Other fibers are coming to market that will be used in baselayer fabrics that will follow Patagonia’s committment to making Capilene a green product. Bringing green products do come at a cost, because they comprise such a small part of the total market; thus, manufacturers are unable to enjoy economies of scale during manufacturing. Green products will also come with a performance cost. Such is the nature of recycling technologies.

    This presents an interesting dilemma for the ultralight backpacker, who also subscribes to a need to exert an ultralight impact on the earth. The best fabrics and fibers (e.g., those offering the highest performance-to-weight ratios) are currently, not green products. We expect green technologies to improve, certainly, but we must also expect that green technologies will continue to be outpaced (in terms of performance) by non-green fabrics and fibers.

    Outdoor Research MicroNight Bivy (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    Outdoor Research unveils an 18 ounce, fully-featured waterproof bivy sack.

    Overview

    Outdoor Research debuts a new light weight bivy at the show. The MicroNight Bivy is constucted of Pertex Endurance fabric with a coated waterproof nylon floor. Unlike the spartan (but very light) Integral Designs Endurance Bag Cover, the MicroNight Bivy is rather full featured at the expense of some added weight.

    During our test of the Integral Designs product made from the same fabric, we found the Pertex Endurance reasonably breathable, but still experienced some condensation inside the bivy. We expect the MicroNight Bivy to have similar performance. The highly water-resistant fabric is functionally waterproof except where pressure is applied to a wet surface. Whereas the Endurance floor of the Bag Cover showed some moisture penetration in a snow cave or on extremely wet ground, the coated nylon floor of the MicroNight should eliminate any leakage through the bottom of the bivy.

    Outdoor Research MicroNight Bivy (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The zippered opening of the MicroNight Bivy, complete with no-see-um netting.

    Specifications and Features

    • Pertex Endurance upper fabric
    • Coated waterproof nylon floor
    • Fully taped seams
    • No-see-um netting at opening
    • End-opening zipper with storm flap
    • Stake and guyline loops
    • Internal mesh pocket
    • Claimed weight: 18.2 oz (517g)
    • Length: 84 in (214 cm)
    • Width: 25 in (64 cm) at shoulders; 21 in (53 cm) at feet
    • Peak Height: 17.5 in (44 cm)

    Night Ize Figure 9 Rope Tightener (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    Nite Ize rescues the knot challenged among us with their Figure 9 Rope Tightener.

    Night Ize Figure 9  Rope Tightener (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    Figure 9 attached mid-rope. The top can also be attached to the other end of a cord. The free end is on the far right and can easily be removed by tugging.

    Overview

    When the weather is warm and the conditions are nice, nothing is lighter than the skills of basic knot craft. The venerable girth hitch, bowline, clove hitch, sheet bend, and taut-line hitch are weightless and will meet most all of a hiker’s line securing needs. Considered a rite of passage among old-timers and Cub Scouts alike, learning knots is a hiking skill not to be flippantly replaced by cord locks and line tensioners.

    But, that’s not the whole story…

    When your taut-line hitch starts to slip after the cord is rain soaked (or frozen), or your fingers are too cold to hold that slippery spectra cord, or it’s too dark to even see the cord at all, line tensioners start to make a lot of sense. The Figure 9 Rope Tightener by Nite Ize is the most cleverly designed tensioning device I’ve seen yet. Its flexible design with no moving parts works in several configurations to keep your cords secure. I expect it may be just the ticket for winter tarp campers who must handle guylines with mittens. Hammock campers may be interested in the larger size.

    What sets it apart from most other plastic and aluminum tensioning gadgets is that it doesn’t require a loop on the end of the cord – it works cleanly even with a free end. This is important if you need to wrap your cord around an object whose ends are not accessible, like a tree, ski, or buried dead-man. With the Figure 9 Tightener, just pass the end of the line around the object, pull tight, and secure to the device with an easy tug. Need to re-tension in the middle of the night? Just pull the end to release, tension, and re-secure.

    Specifications and Features

    • Laser engraved instructions on device
    • Aluminum Construction
    • Compatible with cord diameter 1/16 to 3/16 in (1.6 to 5 mm)
    • Weight: 0.13 oz (3.6g)
    • Dimensions: 1.5 x 1.125 x .125 in (40 x 28 x 3 mm)
    • Larger size also available for heavy-duty use (not suitable for climbing)

    In the Chaos: The craziness That is OR (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    Exciting, awesome, exhausting, intense, and hectic are just some adjectives that describe the chaos of OR.

    The 2006 edition of the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market may have closed its doors for the night (their is still one day to go), but we thought you might be interested in knowing something about the chaos that we have been in the midst of for the past few days and will be for just a little bit longer. When the Salt Palace closes for the night some go to their hotels to sleep, some go to party, some to play, and some – like us – to write. The chaos of the show certainly envelops us 24 / 7 and I imagine it manages to do pretty much the same in one way or another for all the other attendees too.

    In the Chaos: The craziness That is OR (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    Al Alison and Alan Dixon among the throngs by the non-stop action in the paddle tank. Here people played in the water; elsewhere they climbed rock walls or raced on treadmill or even did trick biking. Throughout it all the pace of things never slackened as people went about their business of selling, buying, making contacts, and of course reporting on the show.

    The show is composed of over 950 exhibitors showing off their wares ranging from the cottage-industry size companies hoping to grow to the longtime bigwigs who have been around for decades. They spread themselves out across over 400,000 square feet of floor space and for 4 days countless thousands of people try to absorb it all. Does it sound daunting yet? If not remember that most companies have many things they eagerly want to tell you about and what they think is truly great may well be different from what you think is great. Add to this the fact that the booths though laid out in seemingly neat rows can still lead even the most careful navigator astray as he or she is bombarded from all directions by sights, sounds, and smells. And last, but hardly least, keep in mind that a lot of what you need to do is scheduled in advance and that means you had best keep to your schedule as best as you can even though sometimes that may mean hustling from a booth at one end of the show all the way to a booth in a far pavilion in a distant corner nestled amongst dozens of other booths with just minutes for time to get a bite to eat, or go to the bathroom, let alone take a break in the rejuvenation room.

    Now someone is no doubt saying that some of this could surely be combatted with good scheduling care. That’s true to a degree, but even the best schedules break down through no fault of anyone. And what happens when you come across what looks like a gem of a product that you had not expected? You stop for it, of course. Not everything is done by schedule and that is part and parcel of the madness that is OR.

    The show is exhilarating and overwhelming. You are in a prime position to see what is developing in the latest gear and what companies think people want. You learn about new technologies being employed and can see how an idea spreads like a virus through the industry. But you also see huge amounts of chaff. Then their is the personal interplay between everyone at the show. It is especially fun to watch first-time attendees come to the show and then just dive in with great gusto. They, and I am including BackpackingLight staff editors , remind us just how much fun the show can be even when at times your primary feeling is one of extreme exhaustion.

    The Outdoor Retailer shows are grand, frenetic, full of pomp and circumstance sometimes signifying nothing, full of new things to see that could well change our experience of the outdoors for the better, and an experience for all it’s trials that is not to be missed. I keep coming back and who knows if I come back enough perhaps I’ll even learn where the food court is one day. But until then I, along with all the other staffers who come, will continue to seek out what is the best and most interesting at future Outdoor Retailer shows.

    Sleeping Bag Overview (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    Sleeping Bags continue to drop weight with new materials and construction techniques.

    Overview

    Sleeping Bags continue to evolve this year. It seems everyone now has "lightweight" products in their line. Some manufacturers’ idea of lightweight would be laughed at by most Backpackinglight readers, but still, even mainstream companies like Lafuma now have lighter bags, and at a lower price than the premium niche-market lightweight products available in the past.

    This year also sees increased adoption of technologies like laminated insulation. First introduced decades ago in heavyweight bags by Wiggy’s, welding or laminating the insulation to the shell and/or liner of a bag simplifies construction, and eliminates the need for quilting, scrim, and baffles to stabilize the insulation. The North Face, Marmot, and Mountain Hardwear now have lightweight bags with this construction.

    Several new bags save weight through innovative features and new materials. New proprietary synthetic insulations, as well as widely available Climashield are now appearing. A new non-calendered, down-proof shell material also debuts in a Montbell bag.

    Sleeping Bag Overview (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    Lafuma Pro 650g Down Bag. A conventional mummy bag with 750+ fill-power down and a 20d Polyamide shell. This bag shows how mainstream companies are getting lighter. This bag has an MSRP of only $190. That’s not bad for a 25°F 750+ FP down bag that weighs 23oz (claimed).

    Sleeping Bag Overview (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 2
    Marmot Mountain 30 Bag. Marmot laminates their new proprietary, continuous, high-void insulation called Thermaclime to the shell to eliminate stitching and reduce weight. Strangely, they stitch a second insulation layer to the bag’s liner, claiming that the stitched construction has improved breathability over laminating due to the glue used in lamination. I expect this will provide a nice next-to-skin feel, but will result in diminishing air permeability as you move from the skin out that may trap more moisture in the bag than if the construction were reversed with the laminated layer on the inside. The $139 MSRP bag is rated at 30°F and weighs 2 lb, 3oz (claimed).

    Sleeping Bag Overview (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 3
    The North Face Propel Bag with welded insulation construction. We reported on the Pertex Quantum shelled Propel bag with welded Polarguard Delta insulation at ORSM 2004. Since then, the Propel bag has gained a vented footbox, and switches this year to Climashield insulation. Both of these changes unfortunately add weight to the bag, now at 19 oz (claimed). A full review of the updated Propel is planned.

    Sleeping Bag Overview (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 4
    Western Mountaineering Summerlite Bag. We first covered this bag at ORWM 2005. At 18oz with full zip and 4 inches of fully-baffled single layer loft (claimed), it remains the lightest standard mummy bag for its loft. Gary Schaezlein, the owner of Western Mounteering, says that his company has been swamped fulfilling orders for existing products and has pushed back availability of this bag to Spring 2007. Don Wilson has been using this bag on the PCT this summer. We’ll publish a complete review soon.

    Sleeping Bag Overview (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 5
    Montbell ul super stretch down hugger bag with new 800 fill-power down and revised the shell fabric. The new lightweight non-calendered but still down-proof shell fabric promises enhanced breathability. The use of 800 fill-power down puts it more in line with competitors’ premium down products.

    Sleeping Bag Overview (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 6
    Big Agnes King Solomon. A 600 fill-power down couples top bag rated at 15°F and weighing 4lb, 12oz (claimed). What can I say? Alan and Alison look pretty comfortable in it. Actually, it is fairly weight efficient for a 15 degree bag at 38 ounces per person – just choose your bag mate carefully.

    Sleeping Bag Overview (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 7
    Mountain HardWear Men’s UltraLamina 45 Synthetic Bag. Using a new proprietary short-staple insulation called Thermic Micro, claimed to be 50% easier to stuff than their older Thermic CF, this bag offers dual zip entry with half-zips extending from the neck on either side of the bag. This allows the user to sit up and use their arms to cook or read like in similar bags from Nunatak, Feathered Friends, and Exped. MH is using the new insulation throughout their bag line this year. It’s laminated to the shell in this bag, hence the UltraLamina name. 1 lb 8oz, MSRP $165.

    New Lightweight Silnylon Products From Equinox (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    These items stray a bit from backpacking, but frankly we were impressed with their quality construction, lightweight, compactability, and usability. They would also make very nice gifts.

    Equinox Ltd. is perhaps best known among ultralight backpackers for their numerous products made from silnylon. They continue to be resourceful with the introduction of a 6.1 ounce daypack, a 1.6 ounce tote bag, a 4.9 ounce duffle, and a 4.8 ounce fanny pack. All are nicely designed, well constructed, and very compactable.

    New Lightweight Silnylon Products From Equinox (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The Equinox Ultralight Day Pack is 900 cubic inches and weighs just 6.1 ounces. It has padded shoulder straps, two side mesh pockets, and a top pocket with top strap and buckle. It will easily double as a stuff pack in your pack, and a day pack for a foray from camp. The pack shown is a prototype, so it is subject to change and doesn’t have a MSRP yet.

    New Lightweight Silnylon Products From Equinox (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 2
    The Equinox Tote Bag weighs just 1.6 ounces and measures 20 inches wide by 16 inches high. I included it in this writeup because it can be a very useful piece, or gift. They tested it with 100 pounds in it!

    New Lightweight Silnylon Products From Equinox (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 3
    Equinox’s Cargo Bag (duffle) weighs just 4.9 ounces and measures 20 inches long by 9 inches wide by 11 inches high. It has a main zippered opening plus one zippered outside pocket. This item really compacts down to a very small size in a provided stuff sack, and we included it because of its versatility. MSRP is $29.

    New Lightweight Silnylon Products From Equinox (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 4
    The Bandicoot Ultralight Fanny Pack measures 11 inches wide by 8 inches high and weighs just 4.8 ounces. It has a zippered top entry and will sell for $28.75.

    Eagle Nest Outfitters SingleNest Hammock (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    Hammock options continue to grow with the ENO SingleNest.

    More and more people are trying hammock camping. Hammock camping, when possible, certainly does provide some unique advantages other ground-based camping, chief among them being comfort.

    The options for the person interested in this form of shelter continue to expand. Eagle Nest Outfitters based out of Asheville, North Carolina has several hammock designs that with the addition of an appropriate ultralight tarp (they sell a 12.5 foot by 9 foot rainfly that weighs 22 ounces) the inventive camper could design a personalized system that is very light and flexible.

    Eagle Nest Outfitters SingleNest Hammock (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The ENO SingleNest weighs 18 ounces, can support up to 400 pounds, and measures 9 feet 10 inches long by 4 feet 7 inches across. ENO sells optional bug netting and a rainfly. They also sell a strap system weighing 8 ounces designed to let you quickly secure the hammock to trees without the hassle of tying knots or worry of damaging the bark.

    St. Moritz Watches: Momentum VP-1 and VS-1 Digital Altimeters and Momentum Logic (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    Digital Altimeters with numerous features and a space-age materials analog watch that will stun you.

    St. Moritz has been crafting fine watches for some time. At the 2005 summer Outdoor Retailer Show we reported on their stylish analog altimeter watch. This time they had three watches that caught our eye and two of them in particular really piqued this author’s interest.

    Of immediate interest to us are the digital altimeters that will be available in November. For those of people looking for an entry level altimeter with pleasing style and basic features at a very appealing price the Momentum VP-1 will be worth a look. If you want to go all out and need a watch that can survive anything, adds a digital compass, advanced lap recording features, altitude alarms for maximum, average, and low altitudes, as well as the usual barometric pressure tracking, and weather forecasting then the stainless steel Momentum VS-1 with its sapphire crystal is for you.

    Finally, for those of us who just can’t wear digital watches all the time and want a watch made of truly modern materials including titanium, a sapphire crystal, and carbon fiber then the Momentum Logic is perhaps the watch we have been waiting for.

    St. Moritz Watches: Momentum VP-1 and VS-1 Digital Altimeters and Momentum Logic (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The Momentum VS-1 is a serious watch for serious backcountry travel. Housed in a 316L solid stainless steel case with either an emerald or sapphire crystal this watch will go pretty much anywhere. The display is sharp and operation looks straightforward.

    Both the VP-1 and VS-1 share the same basic feature set providing the user with an altimeter with a range from -700 to 9000 meters, barometric pressure sensor that reads between 300 to 1000 millibars, temperature readout, basic weather prediction and pressure tracking. An advanced chronograph with a large memory capable of storing data for 30 races 9100 data points per race), plus the usual time, date, and alarm features you would expect on watches of this caliber round out the feature set. A digital compass with declination settings completes the package.

    MSRP of the Momentum VS-1 with sapphire crystal is $235 (Available November).

    MSRP of the VP-1 is $120 (Available November).

    St. Moritz Watches: Momentum VP-1 and VS-1 Digital Altimeters and Momentum Logic (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 2
    The Momentum Logic is the truly classy , made of space-age materials , analog watch some of us have been waiting for and not even been aware of that fact. The titanium case encloses a watch with Swiss made long life movement (battery life of approximately 10 years) that presents the date and time on a lovely carbon fiber dial (black, yellow, or silver) using superluminova hands and idnexes (absorb light during the day and glow quite brightly for hours throughout the day). A sapphire crystal and natural rubber with titanium clasp round our the appearance of this watch which can most certainly go almost anywhere and survive almost everything.

    MSRP: $320 (shipping early September)

    New Granite Gear Meridian Vapor Backpack (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    What do you get when you cross the Nimbus Meridian and the Vapor Trail? The Meridian Vapor of course!

    Just like horse or dog breeding, the future of this upcoming new backpack from Granite Gear is fairly predictable because it combines the attributes from two winners. The new Meridian Vapor will combine the body of the Nimbus Meridian (being introduced now, but thru-hiker Justin Lichter has put 8,000+ miles on one so far without failure) with the frame of the popular Vapor Trail. The volume will be 3,200 cubic inches.

    New Granite Gear Meridian Vapor Backpack (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The new Meridian Vapor is 3,200 cubes and weighs just 2 pounds 14 ounces. It has all the features of the Nimbus Meridian body, including lightweight durable fabrics, a top pocket that converts to a fanny pack, Ri-Ri water-resistant zippers on the top pocket and body access, and roomy stretch-woven side pockets. It will be available in regular torso and long torso sizes, with hipbelts available in small, medium, and large. The Vapor frame will comfortably carries 20 to 30 pound loads. MSRP will be $195.

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    The women’s version will be named the Meridian Vapor Ki. It has all the same features, with shoulder strap and hipbelt sizing adjusted for a woman. It will be available in short torso and regular torso lengths. The pack torso length will adjust down to 14 inches.

    I have been testing the Nimbus Meridian this spring and summer, and love its adjustability, comfort, and load-carrying ability. I expect the Meridian Vapor to be an equally good performer, with Granite Gear’s traditional comfort, and volume just right for a seasoned thru-hiker.

    HydraCoach Interactive Water Bottle

    Why the HydraCoach may have absolutely zero applicability for lightweight backpacking.

    For 1.2 ounces, one can carry a one liter (33.8 ounces) capacity Platypus Bottle. For 5.5 ounces, you can have a hard-sided one liter Nalgene bottle, the icon of heavyweight backpacking.

    And for a seemingly inconsequential premium of 7.3 ounces, you can have a water bottle that … interacts with you?

    The HydraCoach, by Sportline, claims to be the world’s first "intelligent" water bottle. In other words, it monitors your water consumption and then gives you feedback about how you’re doing and where you need to be with respect to your hydration level.

    The HydraCoach is a 22 ounce capacity bottle with a silicone mouthpiece coupled to a straw, screwtop closure, and nifty on-board computer.

    To start the game, you press the SETUP button and input your weight (e.g., for me, 160 lbs). Then, the computer suggests a daily water intake (e.g., half your weight in ounces, or for me, 80 ounces). You can adjust this intake manually, because well, you know, hydration is a personal thing.

    Then, you fill up the bottle, press the start button (which starts a 24-hour timer ticking), and start drinking. The on-board computer monitors several variables, including total amount consumed during the day, average hourly consumption rate, elapsed time (so YOU can figure out proper "pacing"), and the amount of percentage of fluid consumed as a fraction of your daily intake "goal" that it calculated.

    All this is monitored by a neat little propeller embedded into the straw. The propeller sends its rotation rate to the on-board computer as you drink to calculate fluid consuption volumes.

    Not only is this water bottle interactive, but it appears to be motorized. I wondered immediately: is this going to be legal in Wilderness Areas?

    And so, I filled up my HydraCoach with water from a dumb(er) bottle (the LEFT bottle in the photo, as if it isn’t already obvious, sheeya!), pressed the START button, and was on my way to an interactive hydration experience.

    I immediately took many, many sips from the bottle, then scrolled through the monitoring variables of the on-board computer using the MODE button. Everything was working smoothly: Within 60 seconds, I had already consumed 6 ounces of water, my fluid consuption rate was a healthy 360 ounces per hour (~ 3 gallons per hour, which is about the rate of fuel consumption of a Hummer H3 on a paved highway), and I was already 7.5% on my way to reaching my daily goal!

    This felt better than any success towards a New Year’s Resolution on January 2.

    That was pretty much the high point of my HydraCoach experience.

    I placed my HydraCoach (it sounds better to say my HydraCoach, doesn’t it? After all, this is a more interactive, and thus, more personal, water bottle, right?) into my messenger bag and spent the remainder of the afternoon walking the Salt Palace floor at Outdoor Retailer.

    I wanted to give this water bottle a real test, so I walked, and walked hard! I walked everywhere – from Nemo in the 10000 aisle to Toray upstairs in the 80k’s. And then back! Miles of walking. I even walked outside to attempt further dehydration, by exposing myself to outside heat.

    I also walked by a number of snack bars and coffee stands.

    Where I drank several quarts of Diet Coke and Cappucino. Of course, all that fluid has to go somewhere, so I also made several visits to the restroom en route. Boy was I hydrated!

    Then, I remembered why I was walking – and peeing – so much – I was testing a HydraCoach!

    I pulled the bottle out of my messenger bag, several hours later, and it was empty. The bottom of my bag was full of water. All of the water leaked out of the bite valve. The folks at HydraCoach were well aware of several issues that these prototype bottles possessed and warned the informant who picked up our media sample not to have us write about them. This wasn’t one of them.

    Of course, I was mad because all this water was just unnecessary pack (messenger bag) weight, which is a big deal when you need to save your weight for the far more valuable marketing brochures from all these companies.

    So I decided to interact with the on-board computer.

    It seems that I didn’t drink much water today. Nothing had changed, except my lack of progress towards my goals: the newly calculated metrics suggested by the computer sent me into a depressed state.

    Just like a failed New Year’s Resolution.

    So, I started over, determined to change my bad habits. I swore off Diet Coke and coffee, and pressed the RESET button.

    I filled my HydraCoach again and drank a bottle full of water before stuffing it back in my bag, empty, so it wouldn’t leak everywhere again.

    In other words, I tanked up.

    When I reached the next drinking fountain, I pulled out the empty water bottle, and tanked up again. I drank the whole bottle as I watched the on-board computer boost my ego.

    Not only was I having a better interactive hydration experience, I was applying lightweight backpacking techniques by drinking only at known pure water sources.

    In fact, I had them all marked on my exhibitor map.

    Then disaster struck.

    When I reached my third water source (a snack bar at the NE corner of the Salt Palace), I unscrewed the cap, got dizzy (for reasons certainly unrelated to hydration levels), lost my balance, and my brain sent signals to my hand that caused me to drop the bottle. Pieces went flying everywhere.

    I was frantic. I felt like I’d dropped my personal trainer. I gathered the pieces and inspected them. Nothing was broken! Boy, was I relieved.

    Then, I was showing the snack bar attendant my new HydraCoach, and was just about to show her how well I’d been hydrating myself throughout the day by scrolling through the on-board computer’s various performance monitoring modes.

    Everything was zeroed. No progress. Nothing. Nada. My legitimacy, in the eyes of the snack bar lady, was now seriously jeopardized.

    The onboard computer had reset itself during the fall.

    I can’t imagine how I’d have felt if I’d dropped this bottle on the trail. My Coach all of a sudden felt a bit too fragile for backcountry use.

    Of course, it’s too heavy as well. And not quite smart enough.

    And certainly not interactive enough. What I’d really like to have seen is an alarm reminding me to drink water. Better yet, a feminine voice encouraging me, "Time to drink, you champ (wink)" would have been really swell.

    But I don’t know if they can figure out how to get on board computers to wink yet.

    Manzella Silkweight Windstopper Glove

    The essence of gloveness!

    We stopped by the Manzella booth and asked them to show us the perfect glove for ultralight backpacking in windy and showery conditions. After looking at a few gloves for SWAT teams, etc., which didn’t quite hit the mark, they came up with their Silkweight Windblocker gloves. At only 1.6 ounces per pair in size large for gloves that combine wind and water resistance with a good degree of warmth and durability, these gloves appear to have great potential for summertime ultralight backpacking.

    Manzella Silkweight Windstopper Glove (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The Manzella Silkweight Windstopper gloves, as the name implies, are made of a thin version of Gore’s stretch Windstopper fabric. They are sized for a snug fit to retain dexterity, are come in M. L, and XL sizes. The MSRP is $30.

    Kelty’s New Lightweight Backpack Line

    Serious lightweight backpacks from Kelty.

    Kelty is no stranger to lightweight backpacks, with their modular (and expensive) Cloud and Vapor packs made of Spectra fabric, and their less expensive Flight version made of Dyneema Gridstop. We visited Kelty looking for new affordable lightweight backpacks and were not disappointed. Kelty’s new Lightweight series backpacks are full-featured, yet weigh no more than some popular lightweight packs you are quite familiar with.

    The line consists of three packs: the Soar at 5,200 cubic inches and 4 pounds, the Agile at 4,500 cubic inches and 3 pounds 13 ounces, and the Nimble at 3,500 cubic inches and 3 pounds 8 ounces. For comparison, the popular 3,800 cubic inch Osprey Aether 60 now weighs just over 4 pounds.

    Keltys New Lightweight Backpack Line (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    Left to right: Nimble 3500W’s, Nimble 3500, Agile 4500W’s, Agile 4500 and Soar 5200.

    All three packs are full-featured with lightweight durable fabrics, adjustable aluminum stays, HDPE framesheet, well padded shoulder straps and hipbelt, wicking backpanel, six outside pockets, and more. Overall, the new Kelty lightweight packs are impressive and definitely worth taking a look at.

    Kahtoola Flight Snow Travel System is Now Available (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    Kahtoola, the traction people, were at summer OR to show their latest refinements to their Flight Snow travel system, so we dropped by to check them out.

    We did an extended dispatch on this innovative system from the winter 2006 OR, so you can find more details there.

    Kahtoola Flight Snow Travel System is Now Available (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The Kahtoola Snow Travel System consists of the Flight overboot that clicks into a snowshoe deck. Simply step on the deck to engage cleats on the bottom of the boot into slots on the deck, similar to bicycle pedal cleats. The boots disengage just as easily by pulling a ripcord.

    The beauty of the Kahtoola Snow Travel System, from a lightweight standpoint is:

    • It is very versatile and allows you to adjust your footwear/traction system to the conditions
    • It allows you can wear lightwight trail running shoes to reduce weight on your feet
    • The flight overboot keeps your feet warm and dry, and will readily fit into a snow camping system
    • Overall system weight is minimized

    Kahtoola Flight Snow Travel System is Now Available (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 2
    The Flight overboot is available in seven sizes to fit over shoe sizes 5-14. It weighs 20 ounces per pair (depending on size) and costs $149. The upper is 6 mm neoprene with Hypalon reinforcements, the cleats on the bottom are stainless steel.

    Kahtoola Flight Snow Travel System is Now Available (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 3
    The Flight Deck is available in two sizes: the Gypsy (left) is 8 inches by 23 inches and weighs 40 ounces/pair, and the Gemini (right) is 8.5 inches by 23 inches and weighs 43 ounces/pair. The cost is $185.

    While the Kahtoola Snow Travel System is not necessarily cheap, it definitely stimilulates our interest because of its lightweight and versatility.

    NEMO Finds eVENT Replacement for Tents (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    NEMO claims to have found an eVENT replacement for their waterproof breathable tents

    nemo_event_replacement (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    NEMO claims to have found a fabric with breathability similar to eVENT. Shown is the 2007 GoGo bivy shelter in the new lime green fabric. At a 2.1 lb packed weight it is very competitive with other front hoop bivies. Of course, NEMO has made a few other tweaks since the 2006 model.

    It’s been about a year since ultra-breathable eVENT fabric was pulled from US and Canadian shelter market. It didn’t meet fire retardant standards for a “dwelling.” This is a shame. We at BPL felt it was the clear breathability performance leader for a shelter fabric. Since eVENT was pulled, manufacturers of high-end single walled tents have been searching for a replacement fabric with similar breathability (or finding ways to market a suspiciously similar fabric but not branded as eVENT).

    NEMO claims to have found an eVENT replacement from fabric manufacturer Itochu. Brendan Condit of NEMO says that “independent lab tests confirm the Itochu fabric has similar breathability (just a few percent lower Water Vapor Transmission Rate) than eVENT and is much easier to seam seal.” At the booth he showed us a half page synopsis of the test results, but no lab was given nor was the test method specified. NEMO said they would forward the test method and detailed lab results to us. Until then, we have no way to substantiate their claim of breathability in league with eVENT.

    Even so, the Itochu fabric is probably quite breathable and a good choice for a single-walled waterproof breathable fabric. NEMO will use it for their GoGo 1-person Bivy, Hypo EX 2-person tent, and Morpho AR 2-3 person tent.

    nemo_event_replacement (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 2
    Hanging upside down from the ceiling is the 2007 2-peson NEMO Hypno EX also with the new lime green Itochu fabric. It is 4.2 lbs packed weight and has 31 ft2 floor area.

    nemo_event_replacement (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 3
    NEMO is also improving the performance/inflation speed of a new foot pump for spring 2007. We looked at several prototypes of this essential piece of equipment for Airbeam inflation. Neither of the pumps shown is exactly the final design.

    A One-Person Tent as Light as a Bivy From Big Sky International (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006)

    One-person, single-wall, free-standing, breathable fabric, 28 ounces.

    We had an opportunity to visit with Bob Molen of Big Sky International to get an update on his supply issues as well as see new products coming up. A while back he decided to consolidate production with one manufacturer to increase quality, as well as incorporate new upgrades. Both resulted in unexpected delays. He’s now confident that production will meet demand and quality will be better than ever.

    Earlier in the Show we reported on a new bivy-weight one person tent from Black Diamond; today we found an even lighter one. Big Sky International will be introducing a new minimalist Revolution one-person tent that will weigh only 28 ounces! That’s right – 28 ounces, and its a tent, not a bivy.

    A One-Person Tent as Light as a Bivy From Big Sky International (Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2006) - 1
    The new Big Sky Revolution 1P 1D0V tent weighs only 28 ounces with Epic fabric, carbon fiber poles, and titanium stakes. It has one door and no vestibule. The floor area is 17.5 square feet and height is 39 inches. The floor dimensions are 84 inches long x 36 inches wide at the head and 24 inches wide at the foot. There is a vent on each side for cross ventilation.

    Other developments at Big Sky include a move to a custom configuration approach on their tents. Now you can specify the fabric you want (silnylon or spinnaker fly, or Epic or Znorkel for single wall), pole material (aluminum or carbon fiber), pole attachment system (clips or sleeves), stakes (number and type), and guylines. Purchasing a tent from Big Sky will be like ordering a Dell computer.