In Part 1 of this series, I looked at some techniques for using upright canister stoves in cold weather just above the boiling point (BP) of the fuel. The problem here is that during operation the fuel will cool down, due to the latent heat of evaporation as explained in Part 1, to below the BP of the fuel. The reduced vapor pressure will not be enough to push gas out of the canister and stove will die. In this second part, I look at using various canister warming techniques in really cold weather when the ambient temperature is below the boiling point of the fuel. This is where it gets harder, but it is possible with some cunning.
The remainder of this article contains results from a variety of experiments where I monitor the temperature of both the canister and various accessories (e.g., a shunt and a reflector) to evaluate their ability to maintain canister performance by increasing canister temperatures. In addition, we'll take a look at using combinations of those techniques.