No, load lifters were added primarily for what they’re described as… they pull the pack close to your back while simultaneously lifting the shoulder straps off the top of the shoulders.
They used to be called stabilizer straps. Who changed the name?
I’ll add that the shoulder straps need to be loosened for this to work and often requires fine tuning the shoulder straps and “load lifter” straps. This can take several fiddling adjustments.
As weight and volume are increased in a pack, the top of the pack tends to start leaning away from the body. At the same time, there is “compression” and/or movement of the pack causing the connection point of the shoulder straps to the pack to slide down, putting more weight on the shoulders. This “compression” or movement can be one or more of: compression of frame stays or structure, slippage of hip belt, compression of foam in the hip belt, compression of material where a hip belt connects to the pack or lumbar pad, etc. Even an inch of compression can make a pack become very uncomfortable over the course of a day.
We could just loosen the shoulder straps a bit to remove the added weight on the shoulders, but the pack would tend to tip backwards even more.
To relieve the shoulder strap weight and pull the pack against the back, we use the stabilizer straps. IF the stabilizer strap is at a 45 degree angle, then it can lift the shoulder straps up if we loosen the shoulder straps a bit . . . We’re not really “lifting the load.” If much less than 45 degrees, it won’t lift the shoulder straps, which normally means the frame is too small.
Whether or not a pack can truly benefit from stabilizer straps is dependent on bag size, weight of gear, quality of a frame, frame height, hip belt construction and attachment, etc.
As mentioned by @bradmacmt, the curvature of internal stays is very important. I have two internal frame packs I use over 90% of the time. My upper back has extreme curvature and the bends are significant to make them fit properly — much more than I have ever seen anyone else need to do. Since they are internal framed, the pack bags are cylindrical in shape.
The small pack is only 32 inches in circumference, so I can’t get a lot of gear and food into it, even if the gear fills the extension collar. The stays are sturdy enough so there is no compression, the hip belt is tall with a material that doesn’t tend to slide, plus I am skinny enough so the double buckle allows the hip belt to wrap over the top of my hip bones. All of this allows me to carry up to 35 lbs without stabilizer straps — the pack doesn’t have them. I’ve never carried more and I probably couldn’t fit more weight into the bag.
My other pack is 36 inches in circumference, with a kangaroo pocket. This pack has thicker and wider stays and a more robust hip belt and construction. I use this pack for longer trips when the other pack can’t hold all my gear and food, especially in winter when I need more gear. If the contents of the pack don’t go past the top of the frame, then I usually don’t need stabilizer straps and the pack doesn’t have them. However, if I need the space in the extension collar, then the pack starts to “compress.” In this case, I add frame extensions, and stabilizer straps that create the 45 degree angle (this function is designed into the pack). Now I can probably carry 60 0r 70 lbs (I’ve never carried this much, but the pack can easily handle it, the limiting factor being volume not weight).
Same theory applies to externals, although one can’t really bend the frame to the curvature like internal stays. Trailwise used stabilizer straps way back in the ‘60s on their externals. I do like external frames and still use them occasionally, although for most of my trips I use the two internal frame packs I just described because they handle the conditions I hike in better. My external frames are ancient Kelty packs that do not have stabilizer straps, so I won’t carry more than 30 lbs in them.