The Ocelot Windscreen for Canister Topped Stoves

Looking at this windscreen I realized that I’d be happy to reconfigure my cook set up to accommodate it. I’m a ‘boil water’ guy, so the mug is workable and packs smaller than the light pot that I use.

The only thing is, I reconstitute freeze dried meals in their packages in the pot. I won’t be able to do this in a mug. I don’t like the loosey-goosey feel of boiling water in a Mountain House package left on the ground.

any other disadvantage to a mug if all you do is boil water for meals? I imagine that my morning oatmeal will fit fine in a mug.

With a pot I can boil the water for my drink and meal all at once. If I only had a mug I’d have to do two boils. I’m lazy, I don’t want to do two boils.

That’s how I’v been doing it for a long time, Doug.

But I’m getting to the point where I would like a 16 oz insulated cup for my morning coffee and hot chocolate night cap.

I don’t bring a mug–I drink water from my water bottles and coffee in the morning from my pot–after I’ve eaten my oatmeal with fruit. So I have to have two boils in the morning, both in my pot, one after the other.

I’m thinking, I could do the same with a cook mug. But the Mountain House package still won’t fit. I could just empty the contents into the mug and do it that way. But I think the package inside of a pot holds heat better than either of these two alternatives. At altitude, reconstituting freeze dried meals is a bit more difficult,and I like to marshal my gas expenditure. I like to only carry one canister, in other words.

Hmm, maybe I’l stay with my current set up.

@jscott: you make a simple pouch from reflectix or similar to put your food packages in while they rehydrate/”simmer.” Weighs only a few grams and much more effective than putting the packages in your pot.

“But I’m getting to the point where I would like a 16 oz insulated cup for my morning coffee and hot chocolate night cap.”

Yup. I carry a double wall titanium cup for my coffee/evening beverage.

This is pretty cool.  Judging by the list of compatible mugs, I’m guessing it should fit nicely with the Olicamp Space Saver Mug too (https://olicamp.com/space-saver-mug-grip-black.html), which is an anodized aluminum mug with similar proportions to 700/750ml titanium mugs.

More affordable than titanium, probably simmers better than Ti.  The only downside is that it doesn’t come with a lid. Four Dog Stoves sells a titanium lid that fits but it’s $14.00, and adding that to the cost of the Space Saver gets you back into the same price category as cheap 750ml titanium pots on Amazon from Lixada, Rocreek, etc.  I guess one could always hand-fashion a cheap lid out of a pie plate, aluminum chafing pan, etc. I’ve done that.

So where does someone order genuine BRS-3000t stoves from, anyway?  There’s been a lot of discussion about knock-offs.

Look for this (Amazon & eBay)

And not

Exactly.
Last time I checked, there were about 12 (really) fake versions of the BRS-3000 on Amazon. Some of them were pathetic. And we know some of them fail fast. On the other hand, the genuine BRS-3000T works well.

Cheers

Just received my setup for the BRS3000 last night and played with it this morning. Here are some pics and initial impressions:

We would like to see a video of the assembly attaching the Ocelot to the BRS and also the ability to adjust flame when using the small canister. Is there ample room for fingers to get under the windscreen? Thank you

https://youtu.be/XpmVjJY2sUc  Shows that there’s a reasonable amount of room to get under the windscreen to adjust the flame output unless you have really big hands and fat fingers.   It does not show the process of attaching the windscreen to the BRS-3000T.

I ordered one for a BRS-3000T yesterday.  I’m looking forward to playing with it, being the hopeless gear addict that I am.

For the Ocelot Windscreens, the assembly is dependent on the stove that you are using with it. For the Pocket Rocket, the assembly simply slides over the stove. For the BRS 3000t and Fire Maple 300T, it is a little more complex. Below is a copy of the assembly instructions for those stoves. I will be making a video showing real time assembly. Jon

shows that there’s a reasonable amount of room to get under the windscreen to adjust the flame output

In the video a very large canister is used, we would like to see it on the smallest BPL size canister.  Jon might do a video for us showing flame adjustment using  the BRS, smallest canister and the Ocelot Windscreen also to include the windscreen assembly onto the BRS.

Thank you in advance for the informative video.

Here is a video to answer several questions regarding storage and assembly of the Ocelot Windscreen using the BRS 3000t & RocketRocket Deluxe.  Additionally, a brief video of the valve location relative to a larger canister (worst case size).

https://youtu.be/I1aYC563vbc

Your video shows that everyone will burn their fingers on the windscreen when they go to shut off the stove or when they want to reduce the flame for simmering.  While the stove is in use, the windscreen will be red hot in places. I recommend not using the windscreen with the BRS stove.

Or make up a much longer wire handle which sticks out clear of the windshield.
Should be able to do something with a largish paper clip?

Cheers

Should be able to do something with a largish paper clip?

I suspect a largish paper clip will fail, slip off, get lost/misplaced when you least expect it. Then we get into the realm of “Fiddle Factor” not good.

The BRS is not a good canidate for the windsheild.

Fall off? Not a bit of it. Well, not if done the right way.

What you do is to copy the existing wire handle, with little right-angle bits at the two ends. Just need some good machinist pliers or similar. Make the bends just slightly offset – or better still make them first at the ends and then curve the middle of the bit of wire to suit. Need to emphasise the curve so the wire stays in the holes.

Yes, I have done this a few times myself to make longer handles. Works fine. I may have used phosphor bronze wire instead, because I had it in the drawer.

Cheers

What you do is to copy the existing wire handle, with little right-angle bits at the two ends. Just need some good machinist pliers or similar. Make the bends just slightly offset – or better still make them first at the ends and then curve the middle of the bit of wire to suit. Need to emphasise the curve so the wire stays in the holes.

Yes, I have done this a few times myself to make longer handles.

Please show us a photo your phosphor bronze wire paper clip creation. Is it still in use?

A largish paperclip is not tempered, wont hold tight into the holes. Will twist out when you least expect it, especially when you’re trying to shut off the gas supply.

Do you think Jon should include one with his windscreen?

Thank you.

I teach a class at UCLA and the topic is Ethics and New Product Development. In this class, we have students go through the process of creating a new consumer product. At the start of the class, we ask them to define the problem statement:” what is it that you are trying solve?” The next thing that we discuss is “where is your data to support that statement”. All one needed to do was ask the right questions to the right person rather than speculate.
So here is the data: at a full boil, the temperature of the windscreen near the handle remains below 100 F.

The Ocelot windscreen is a flow through design as the bottom is open. It does not trap heat like our Bobcat or Snow Leopard system. A second telltale sign is that even the middle of the windscreen shows minimal signs of oxidation compared to our regular windscreen.  If I recall correctly OHSA standards allow surface temperatures up to 140 F.

While many of you are not engineers below is the National Society of Professional Engineers: Code of Ethics

• Hold paramount the safety, health, and welfare of the public.
• Perform services only in areas of their competence.
• Issue public statements only in an objective and truthful manner.
• Act for each employer or client as faithful agents or trustees.
• Avoid deceptive acts.
• Conduct themselves honorably, responsibly, ethically, and lawfully so as to enhance the honor, reputation, and usefulness of the profession.

If this thread were a class assignment, several students would have recieved a C-.  My 2 cents.

Hi Dan

>> A largish paperclip is not tempered, wont hold tight into the holes. Will twist out when you least expect it, especially when you’re trying to shut off the gas supply.

That does depend on the paper clip, doesn’t it? The wire used for paper clips has have some spring in it in order to hold bits of paper together. But what also matters is the gauge of the wire: thin wire is weaker than thick wire, so many small clips may be just too weak for this job. You need a big one.

I think the stoves are all fairly recognisable. They are all in regular use: I cycle through them. I have added the measured wire thicknesses as appropriate.

The GST-100 on the left middle has a phosphor bronze handle on it, and it has been in use for years like that. The wire is however fairly thick and springy. (Phosphor bronze is used as a non-rusting spring wire.) I can’t remember what happened to the original handle.

The wire on the FMS at the back may be a bit more springy than a paper clip. It works fine.

The original handle (not attached) for the BRS-3000T at the front is the same as for the FMS at the back. (Did it come from the same spring works? Who knows.) The very long handle currently on the BRS is a bent paper clip which I just set up for the photo. It suffers from being the thinnest wire of the lot and far too long, but it still works and does shut the gas off. If I was serious about using it I would have made it a bit shorter – and a lot neater too! But really if I had to make an extension handle, I would have used the 1.6 mm PB wire.

I think Jon has answered the Q about needing to supply a longer handle. I will only add that the thermal mass of the part of the windshield which might be briefly in contact with the user’s hand is very small. Even if at 100 C I doubt whether it would harm the user’s skin. I am not sure the user would even notice it. Glowing bright red – yeah, different situation.

Cheers

I think Jon has answered the Q about needing to supply a longer handle. I will only add that the thermal mass of the part of the windshield which might be briefly in contact with the user’s hand is very small. Even if at 100 C I doubt whether it would harm the user’s skin. I am not sure the user would even notice it. Glowing bright red – yeah, different situation.

Cheers

Thank you Roger for going through the motions of forming the largish paper clip. Sure seems to look long enough. Everyone still using the BRS should make one to extend beyond the windscreen. If you watch the video again, you will see Jon’s fingers cause the windscreen to rise upwards when turning the valve. Womens fingers are more sensitive to heat, they for sure should do the paperclip modification.  Sensing heat on the cuticle area may cause a sudden drawing back of the hand that may cause tipping over of the windscreen/pot. Not likely, but could happen. As Jon pointed out (“Hold paramount the safety, health, and welfare of the public.”)

The paper clip modification looks good, thanks again!

Where did it go????

Jon’s video disappeared. Youtube get’s a C- for disruption of instructions, bummer!

The Ocelot product moves us closer to a mainstream market (compared to alcohol & Esbit users anyway).  That being said, I wanted to make sure that I correctly positioned the product and carefully crafted the message to clearly define the purpose of the design.  This will go a long way to properly setting the customer’s expectations and deliver the product that they wished for.

The recently posted videos did not deliver a clear message and I took them down.  After finalizing the messaging, the video will be re-shot / edited and posted before the end of the month.

Best regards,

Jon

I think Jon has answered the Q about needing to supply a longer handle. I will only add that the thermal mass of the part of the windshield which might be briefly in contact with the user’s hand is very small. Even if at 100 C I doubt whether it would harm the user’s skin. I am not sure the user would even notice it. Glowing bright red – yeah, different situation.

Cheers

Roger, one of the things that Jon failed to mention is the fact that the windsheild gets extremely hot when the valve is fully opened. Full open is what we normally use when we want our morning coffee “fast”  ;) His photo shows 95.4 degrees. He led us to believe that temp is the hottest that we should expect. In reality, it will get extremely hot at times. Jon gives a warning statement on his website to the fact that it will get extremely hot. Why was it not given here! Extremely hot will give a second degree burn.

Here is what can be found on his website: