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Lightweight Canister Stoves REVIEW SUMMARY and GEAR GUIDE OVERVIEW
Comprehensive review of lightweight and ultralight canister stoves used for backpacking.
Comprehensive review of lightweight and ultralight canister stoves used for backpacking.
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One of our favorite canister stoves: the Coleman Outlander F1 Ultralight, only 2.7 ounces and hot!
Canister stoves weigh as little as 2.5 ounces (71 g) and are very easy to use. Simply attach the canister to the stove, open the valve, light the burner, and cook. Canister fuels are designed to deliver lots of heat (BTUs/hr), with relatively good cold weather performance, in a lightweight container. A canister providing 8 ounces (227 g) of fuel weighs about 5 ounces (142 g) empty, not too bad for a steel container that must safely hold liquefied gases. N-butane, iso-butane, and propane – the principal fuels used – provide about 21,000 gross BTU/lb: about the same as white gas.

Fuel canisters come in different sizes (approximately 4, 8, and 16 ounces net weight). Different brands of blended fuel vary in the proportions of propane, n-butane, and iso-butane.
Why not use common propane instead? The problem with using pure propane is that it has a boiling point of -43 °F (-42 °C), which means that it has a high vapor pressure at common ambient temperatures, and therefore requires a heavy steel canister to safely contain it (like the heavy 1-pound propane canisters used for Coleman stoves and lanterns). So canisters of pure propane are too heavy for backpacking. Butane is easy to contain because it has a boiling point of 31 °F (-1 °C), but it doesn’t vaporize well when the temperature drops below freezing. Thus, pure butane has major limitations for cool-weather backpacking.
The solution is to use a blended fuel consisting of propane, n-butane, and iso-butane. The thinner canisters can handle up to about 30% propane, with the remainder being n-butane and/or iso-butane (boiling point 12 °F/-11 °C). The propane/ iso-butane mix vaporizes well at lower temperatures and provides enough vapor pressure for adequate stove performance at colder temperatures. Basically the propane in blended fuels drives the system. With its low boiling point, it provides plenty of vapor pressure at normal ambient temperatures; the other gases are carried along and burned with the propane. There is evidence to indicate that the propane burns off first, causing performance to drop (lower gas pressure and heat output) for the last third of a canister. For an insightful discussion of stove fuels (and other stove topics), see Roger Caffin’s article, Got Gas? Stove Theory and How They Work (click link to purchase PDF reprint), in Backpacking Light Magazine (print issue) volume 1, Summer 2004.

It is good practice to frequently inspect the canister connection O-ring on your stove (the black ring in the photo) visually for cracks and, once it is connected to a canister, to listen and sniff for gas leaks.
The EN417 canister specification and Lindal self-sealing valve are a standard adopted by manufacturers throughout the world. Because the Lindal valve is an industry standard, theoretically every brand of screw-threaded canister fuel must work on any brand of screw-threaded stove. There are legal registration requirements in each country to ensure compatibility with the standard. The basic problems are: 1) one manufacturer has no control over the quality control of another manufacturer’s stove or fuel canisters, and 2) no manufacturer wants to accept any responsibility for another manufacturer’s products. Especially with fuel canisters, which are a potential bomb in a worst-case scenario, company lawyers are averse to liability. So their position and message is that there are small differences (depth and height, manufacturing tolerances) in the threaded fittings on different brands of stoves and canisters. Consequently, to be on the safe side, every stove manufacturer strongly recommends using only their canisters on their stove. Some manufacturers go a step further with strong warnings such as: “Use of other gas cartridges can be dangerous.” Obviously they want to avoid liability, but they also want to sell their own brand of fuel canisters. So what to do? Many backpackers have used different canisters on their stove for years without problems, and most of us do so when our brand is not available. A little experimentation quickly determines which canisters work on your stove and which ones do not. The usual indicator of canister incompatibility is no (or very low) gas pressure when you open the valve. This can sometimes be overcome by tightening the connection a little more (but be very careful not to overdo it!). The key safety factors are to check the O-ring seal in the base of the stove (see photo) to make sure it is in good condition, and check the connection for any leakage before lighting the stove. Put the stove/canister connection up to your ear and listen for a hissing sound, also put it to your nose and sniff for the typical ammonia smell from leaking gas. Never light a stove if there is fuel leakage from the canister connection.
Besides canisters with the familiar Lindal valve, European travelers will encounter Camping Gaz canisters that have a fitting that looks very similar to a Lindal valve, but is smooth rather than threaded. Compatible stoves use a clip to attach to the canister. If you want compatibility with both threaded Lindal valves and unthreaded Lindal valves, consider getting an MSR SuperFly stove. It has an attachment mechanism that works on both.
One pervasive myth about canister stoves is that the jet can clog from using other manufacturer’s fuels. Snow Peak “fuels” this myth with their statement: “Fuel canisters manufactured by other companies may contain a mixture of fuel that has larger particles. These particles clog up the GigaPower stove and lantern.” This is a pretty vague statement, and is pure hooey if they mean that larger fuel molecules will clog the jet. All canister stoves are jetted for C3 and C4 hydrocarbons to attain a desired BTU rating under a set of average conditions. The differences among stoves are not large enough to require a special fuel. The high pressure (up to75 psi) in the canisters keeps the jet clean. Clogs from the fuel itself are rare. What causes jet clogging is dirty connectors on the stove and fuel canisters. Keeping these connectors clean is good preventive maintenance to avoid stove failure in the backcountry and a trip back to the dealer. It is a good idea to retain the little plastic cap (if one is included with the canister) to keep the valve clean. I make it a habit to blow out the fittings of both the stove and canister before attaching the canister.
As I mentioned, cold temperatures reduce the vaporization of the fuel in the canister, and with less vapor pressure the stove burns sluggishly. If you use a blended fuel in cold weather, it is important to warm the canister before you use it so that the butane will vaporize and burn along with the propane and iso-butane. If you don’t, the propane and iso-butane will boil off first, leaving you with a partial canister of butane that doesn’t want to vaporize. The heat of vaporization (heat required to change the fuel from a liquid to a vapor state) of the fuel as it is burned also works against you, because the required heat for the phase change is drawn out of the remaining fuel in the canister, causing it to become even colder and less volatile. To counteract this, I suggest the following: 1) use full canisters (because they have more propane in them than a used canister), 2) warm canisters in a sleeping bag or inside your shirt or pocket, and 3) if you have a second canister, trade canisters when the fuel in the first one gets too cold.
Another tip is to choose the right canister fuel blend for cold weather. Fuel that is a mix of iso-butane (boiling point 12 °F) and propane, works better in below freezing temperatures than fuel containing butane (boiling point 31 °F), because the fuel in the canister will continue to vaporize (albeit more sluggishly) at cold temperatures. For cold temperature performance (below freezing), the propane is the basic driving force (because of its low boiling point) that makes the stove work; iso-butane will volatilize and burn along with the propane (but in decreasing amounts) down to its boiling point of 12 °F, while the n-butane will just sit there. Warming the canister will enable it to perform at even lower temperatures. Examples of cold weather fuels are: MSR IsoPro fuel – 80% iso-butane and 20% propane; Snow Peak GigaPower fuel – 85% iso-butane and 15% propane; and Jetboil JetPower fuel which is 20-30% propane with the remainder iso-butane.
When a canister of propane/iso-butane fuel is “empty” at below freezing temperatures, but you can shake it and hear fuel sloshing around inside, you have a partial canister of n-butane. Most iso-butane also contains some n-butane because it is difficult and expensive to produce pure iso-butane at the refinery.
Altitude offsets the effect of cold temperatures. The lower atmospheric pressure (with higher altitude) makes it easier for the liquid fuel to vaporize in the canister and supply the burner with gas.
As you ascend in elevation, atmospheric pressure decreases and water boils at a lower temperature. For every 18 °F drop in the boiling point of water, it doubles the time to cook food. For example, the boiling point of water drops from 212 °F at sea level to 194 °F at 10,000 feet. It takes twice as long to cook raw food at 10,000 feet than it does at sea level. So, if you are planning to cook raw food at higher elevations, be sure to bring extra fuel. For boiling water and rehydrating foods, altitude doesn’t make much difference. It actually takes a little less time and fuel to boil water (since it boils at a lower temperature), but rehydration will take a little longer, which balances it out.
Most canister stoves are very sensitive to wind. We found that a 12 mph wind dramatically reduced the efficiency of all the canister stoves we tested, except the Jetboil, which was minimally affected. Basically, wind blows the flames away from the pot, so heat transfer is greatly reduced. In the worst case observed in our tests, a quart of water was warmed only 27 degrees Fahrenheit after running the stove at full throttle for 10 minutes! Some stoves performed much better; see our Lightweight Canister Stoves Test Report for details. Using a windscreen restored the performance of some stoves to near that of calm conditions. However, you should use a windscreen with extreme caution and knowledge of what you are doing (see section below). The MSR WindPro stove (not reviewed) is designed so that the canister and burner are separated, allowing the use of a tighter windscreen. There is a weight penalty for this feature, though.

An effective canister stove wind protection setup consists of a windbreak on three sides and a heat shield above the canister. The heat shield (center) is made from the bottom of an aluminum pie pan, and is fastened with a paper clip (right photo). If you choose to use a windscreen with a canister stove, it is imperative that you monitor the canister with your hand to make sure it does not overheat.
All canister stove manufacturers strongly recommend against using a windscreen because it can cause the fuel canister to overheat and explode, resulting in serious injury and/or death. Do not ignore this warning; there is significant risk if you don’t know what you are doing. A windscreen could turn an accident into a disaster if a super heated empty pot or a boilover spilled more heat on an already overheated canister. The manufacturers’ position is understandable considering the liability issues. However, they have done nothing to provide consumers with a safe and effective windscreen. Canister stoves lose a lot of efficiency when exposed to even a slight wind, so some type of wind protection is needed. Jetboil has developed the most effective integrated heat exchanger and windscreen of any manufacturer thus far, allowing it to maintain its fuel efficiency and boil times in windy conditions.
Many backpackers use some type of wind protection for their canister stove. They pile rocks, use a sleeping pad, or carry a conventional aluminum windscreen. It is safer to leave the windscreen open on the leeward side so it doesn’t come too close to the pot and canister, and raise the windscreen above the ground an inch or two to avoid trapped heat (the heat deflected down from the bottom of the pot) so it does not overheat the canister. This windscreen setup doesn’t warm the canister significantly. Think of it more as a windbreak than a windscreen. It’s a compromise solution for blocking wind and reducing heat loss, but at least there is not much risk of overheating the canister. To be certain, feel the canister with your hand to be sure it stays cool. If it’s too hot to touch, it’s too hot!
Placing an aluminum heat shield (made from a pie pan, see photo) between the stove and canister protects the canister from heat that is deflected down from the bottom of the pot. In cold weather you may not need a heat shield, as long as you monitor the temperature of the canister with your hand. For an alternative canister stove windscreen design, see the Backpacking Light technique article, Homemade Canister Stove Windscreen, for construction details.
There are basically three factors that affect canister stove performance: burner design, heat transfer, and heat loss. Our tests show that there are significant differences in stove design that affect their performance; so choosing a top rated stove is the first step. However, the differences among stoves are small compared to the performance differences resulting from how the stove is used. To maximize heat transfer, use as wide a pot as is practical to maximize the surface area to absorb heat. Adjust your stove to minimize flame spillage around the pot, in other words – turn it down! Always use a lid on your pot to hold the steam in; letting the steam escape is a huge heat loss. Convection (wind) is by far the biggest heat robber, so providing wind protection is essential to obtain good stove performance. Use a windscreen properly with full knowledge of the risks and always be cautious. See our Lightweight Canister Stoves: Review Summary and Gear Guide Overview and Lightweight Canister Stoves Test Report for more information on individual stove performance.
Performance comparison of two lightweight liquid fuel backpacking stoves.
Editor’s note: This feature article, by BackpackingLight.com subscriber Roger Caffin, offers one perspective that considers the performance comparison between two liquid fuel stoves: the MSR Simmerlite and the Coleman Xtreme. The conclusions, comments, and opinions derived in this article belong solely to the author, and have not been endorsed or verified by BackpackingLight.com or the BackpackingLight.com Product Review Program or its staff.
Translation key from Australian English to American English:
petrol = white gas
gas = butane/iso-butane/propane mixes, i.e. canisters

The Coleman Xtreme and MSR SimmerLite, packed, with fuel containers.
The Coleman Xtreme and the MSR SimmerLite do look rather similar, especially when packaged up in the bags provided. They weigh almost exactly the same when equipped with ‘full tanks’ of fuel. However, underneath they are quite different.

MSR SimmerLite
The MSR SimmerLite is an updated version of the classic WhisperLite. The burner weighs 181 grams (6.4 oz) with all three legs and hose installed. The pump weighs 64 grams (2.3 oz), a slight increase from the old version’s 49 grams (1.7 oz). The smallest MSR fuel tank (11 fluid ounce volume) weighs 69 grams (2.4 oz) without a cap; the cap weighs an additional 10 grams (0.4 oz) but can be left at home so is not counted. With the tank filled to the recommended level, total weight is 290 grams (10.2 oz), or 221 grams (7.8 oz) of petrol. A 12-gram (0.4 oz) tool kit with multi-purpose spanner, mineral oil for lubricating the washer on the pump, and a spare O-ring for the tank-to-hose coupling is included. The total weight of all components and a full fuel bottle is about 547 grams (19.3 oz). Additional items that many users will choose to leave behind are a 21-gram (0.7 oz) stuff sack and a multilingual instruction manual.
MSR claims that this stove’s “shaker jet” technology makes cleaning easy. The shaker jet is a heavy object inside the jet which, when the stove is shaken, pokes a wire through the jet to clean out any muck which lodges there. I think this feature implicitly acknowledges that these stoves do get blocked jets. For more serious troubleshooting, the whole stove disassembles with the spanner for field service. The manual’s instructions on this procedure are good, but I recommend a practice run at home before taking it to the mountains. I would strongly recommend that disassembly be done over a large cloth or hat to catch all the bits and keep them clean.
The stove hose is a little short, but well reinforced. The coupling into the tank is long and well secured with a spring clip. If you use a windscreen around the stove, which is recommended, the hose length will not be a problem.

Coleman Xtreme
This is the stove that I use for all my winter ski touring trips. It looks quite similar to the SimmerLite, except for the rather large and heavy gas regulating valve assembly on the end of the hose. The burner weighs 314 grams (11.1 oz). There is no pump. The smallest fuel tank weighs 68 grams (2.4 oz) and holds 170 grams (6.0 oz) of gas, for a total of 238 grams (8.4 oz) for a full fuel bottle. (I consider this amount of gas to be comparable to the 221 grams (7.8 oz) of petrol that the small MSR fuel bottle contains.) The total weight of a full fuel bottle and all components is therefore about 552 grams (19.5 oz), as compared to 547 grams (19.3 oz) for the SimmerLite. It too comes with a little nylon bag (31 grams, 1.1 oz).
No tools or service information were supplied with the stove, although a maintenance kit is available and recommended. The hose is slightly longer than the hose on the SimmerLite.
I must say this stove does have a ‘clean’ appearance, and the burner itself is quite light compared with some of the older models. There is a thin generator tube running around the edge of the burner. From my experience with petrol stoves, I have to say the length of this tube looks like a massive overkill: some petrol stoves have far shorter generator tubes. However, I think the reason for the length is to allow the petrol to be vaporised even when the stove is running at a very low flame. The effectiveness of this is discussed below.
The pump that came with the stove is a newer model than on my other MSR stoves. There have been some small engineering refinements, but the basics are still the same. It should be possible to swap the pumps around between stoves. The manual gives adequate instructions on filling, pumping, and checking for leaks, with an emphasis on safety. The stove includes a flexible windshield, a stove base of the same material, and a nice little kit of spare parts. The windshield is the standard MSR heavy aluminum foil style that is normally wrapped around the fuel tank when traveling. I found its height to be inadequate. The foldable stove base is not durable and is too soft to provide any real additional stability to the stove. Its only useful purposes are to catch spilled fuel or to insulate a surface from the heat of the burner.
My first impression of this stove was that the valve assembly was rather large: but then, you don’t want the gas connection falling off, do you? The first bit of the hose that protrudes from the burner is rigid: use care to avoid damaging the junction between the hose and burner. The hose is thin compared to the SimmerLite hose and the generator tube is smaller. The stove does not include a windscreen or stove base.
The gas tank is similar in size to a small MSR fuel bottle. People sometimes complain about the weight of the empty gas tanks: at 68 grams (2.4 oz) I am not sure what they are moaning about. A small ‘can opener’ is provided with the stove. This is designed to allow you to puncture the tank after you have emptied it, to allow it to dry in the sun. The empty tank can then be recycled with soft drink cans. Finally, every gas cartridge is supplied with a plastic clip-on lid to protect the outlet valve from dirt or debris. Strangely, Coleman does not provide a cover for the open end of the valve assembly.
Assembly of the MSR SimmerLite is easy. Fill the fuel tank, insert the pump, and give it the recommended twenty strokes. Then, lubricate the end of the hose before inserting it into the connector in the pump. The manual recommends using spit or oil, which seemed a little primitive. Instead, I used a very small amount of silicone O-ring grease that I’d gotten from another stove spare parts kit. Finally, extend the stove’s three folded legs.
Assembling the Xtreme is extremely simple. Extend the legs, then push the end of the gas cartridge into the valve unit and give it a small clockwise turn. It clicks into place. It took me a couple of tries to get the feel for it, but after that it was easy.
I fired the stove up for the first time on a slab of rock outdoors. The instructions are fairly clear: you open the valve and let fuel wet the whole burner head – without soaking the surrounds of course. Then you shut the valve and light it up. The burner head is rather cunning, it has a rim around the edge that holds some of the priming fuel. There is also a small cup around the bottom that will collect a small amount of spilt fuel. The flame heats the generator tube quite well. When the priming flame has died down you open the valve on the tank – carefully. You do not need any special priming paste or fuel; the normal fuel does just fine.
The usual priming flare was about 30 centimeters (12 in) high: not the sort of thing you want in a tent, of course. The manual recommends that you preheat the stove with fuel in the generator tube: this ensures you start with hot fuel rather than chilling the generator tube with cold fuel when you open the valve. This is an important point for all liquid fuel stoves, both petrol and kerosene.
Assuming I start with a tank of fuel which is still under pressure from the last time I used the stove, that I have a stable base to put the stove on, that the stove is plugged in to the tank, that everything is to hand and I have had some practice, I find that it takes me about 1 minute 45 seconds to get this stove going. That’s not too bad – kerosene takes much longer. How long does it take you to get all the bits and pieces together before this stage? Well, that’s up to you and your degree of organisation.
The first time I lit the Xtreme up I simply turned the control valve on gently while holding a lighter next to the burner. It worked just fine. There was no flare up at all, and I routinely light this stove inside my tent. There is a small generator tube at the burner, but it did not seem to need any preheating. Of course, as soon as the flame is alight, the tube gets hot. So if I start from the same state as above, with everything together, it takes me about 2 seconds to get this stove running. It feels much faster, but in the overall scheme of things there is not much to the difference.

Stove setup for the simmer and boil (less the pot lid) tests
I ran two sorts of tests here. The first was at full power to assess the minimum time to boil 1 litre of water; the second was to see how slowly I could heat water to test simmering capability. The first test is all about the big macho advertising claim: “Our stove boils faster than yours.” Frankly, so what? I never run a stove flat out like this, but you can’t have a stove review without this sort of data. As shown in the picture, I set up the stove with a 180-millimeter (7.1 in) diameter stainless steel pot containing 1 litre of water, put my folding windshield around the stove and pot, and put a digital thermometer in the middle of the pot. The top of the pot was covered for some tests; for others I did not bother, as I wanted worst-case results. The temperature of the water was logged every 5 seconds. Once the water was really boiling I turned the stove off and let the water start to cool.
The results for heating 1 litre of water are shown with the SimmerLite in red and the Xtreme in blue. Note that both graphs are nearly linear in the heating stage; both stoves heated water at a constant rate. The slight change in rate near the top is due to evaporation of steam, since this test was done without a lid. The SimmerLite reached a rolling boil from 21 °C in about 4 minutes 45 seconds, while the Xtreme took slightly longer at 5 minutes 15 seconds. These times are longer than the typical manufacturer claims. I had the SimmerLite going as fast as it could, but I did have the Xtreme turned down a fraction from the maximum. This was due to my reluctance to have flames roaring up the sides of the pot. The Xtreme may have had a slightly faster boil time if I had allowed this.
Time to boil 1 litre of water

The SimmerLite and the Xtreme boiled 1 litre of water in about the same amount of time.
In my opinion, the second test is more important: can I simmer a stew? For this, I need the stove turned down as low as possible. I tested for this by turning each stove down as far as I dared. The Xtreme stove turned down to a very low level and remained stable. The SimmerLite was a different matter. According to reports from other users of the SimmerLite, MSR has said you have to get the stove hot and then turn it down slowly. I interpreted this to mean that it was important to make sure the whole generator tube was hot and remained hot. Even so, I found the flame height on the SimmerLite rather unstable: I could hear the burn rate going up and down without intervention from me. I considered trying to adjust it continuously, but decided this was not acceptable. In the field I am usually busy with other things while dinner is cooking. The test arrangement was the same as before except that in this case I put a lid on the pot to limit evaporation.
Again, the SimmerLite is in red while the Xtreme is in blue. The SimmerLite graph starts at a higher temperature. This is because I had to spend some time fiddling with the valve to get as low a burn rate as possible. In the end, however, the flame on the SimmerLite just went out. That’s why the red graph stops where it does: I quickly turned the valve off when I heard the flame go out. For reasons of both safety and cleanliness, you do not want fuel leaking everywhere! I found it very difficult to control the rate of heating with the MSR stove on its lower settings.
Slowest rate of heating 1 litre of water

The Xtreme is far better at simmering than the SimmerLite.
The SimmerLite heated at a rate of 39 degrees Celsius in 8 minutes, or 4.9 degrees per minute. The Xtreme heated at a rate of 39 degrees Celsius in 20 minutes or 2.0 degrees per minute. This means the Xtreme could be turned down to less than half the heating rate of the SimmerLite – plus it was very stable in that mode. In summary, the Xtreme is far better at simmering than the SimmerLite.
The Xtreme turns down so well that extrapolating the above graph suggests that in a bit over 30 minutes the temperature would reach about 70 °C and not go any higher! That is, the heat loss from the pot at high temperature would match the input from the stove – this is simmering! The data from the SimmerLite suggest that equilibrium could have been reached around boiling point if the valve had not crept shut and turned the stove off. It will simmer, sort of, but not very easily or reliably.
I discussed the three-leg design of both stoves above. In addition to stability on the ground, however, it’s also important that the pot be stable on the stove. You wouldn’t want your dinner to go sliding off onto the ground!
There are two standard techniques manufacturers use for preventing a pot from sliding off the stove. To contain pots, the inner ends of the pot supports can be tilted upwards to make a cradle. This does not work if the pot is larger than the pot supports, as mine is. The second technique is to roughen the top surface of the supports. Not so much that they chew into the base of a pot and wreck it: just enough to stop any sliding.
The SimmerLite has both the tilted arms and little bumps on the arms. They are smoothed off without any sharp edges. The Xtreme also has tilted arms and notches along the top, but the notches do not reach to the highest points. You can run your hand over the arms of both stoves without getting any scratches. My stainless steel pot seemed to be stable on both stoves, so there appears to be just enough roughness on each one.
I mentioned in my general review of stoves, Got Gas? Stove Theory and How They Work, that you should expect to use a little more weight of petrol than of gas, and that I normally use about 30 grams (1.1 oz) of gas per day to cook for two people. The fuel consumption data during this trial matched those figures, but are of limited value for any other user. The reason is that everyone uses their stove differently, and cooks different amounts. So all I can say is that both stoves are efficient examples of their class.
While fuel consumption was as expected, it may be worth noting that the cartridges for the Xtreme are rather specialised and may be hard to come by in a small country town. It is a specialised winter stove. But then, while spending six weeks walking in the French Pyrenees in 2002 I was able to find standard screw-thread (EN417) gas cartridges more often than I could find Coleman fuel or white gas. In Nepal you might be hard pressed to find anything other than kerosene. You will need to research resources where you are going before deciding what sort of stove is appropriate.
During the course of this field test I did not have to do any maintenance on either stove. MSR provides tools, and these tools were sufficient to field strip the stove. Coleman did not provide tools, but I have never needed to field strip a gas stove anyway.
By now you may have got the impression that I have a slight bias towards the gas stove – towards any gas stove! This is true, and this test has not altered my opinions. Both stoves are good stoves and will give good service. It’s just that I find gas (canister) stoves much easier to use than petrol (white gas) stoves.
Figures in graphs are quoted courtesy of www.bushwalking.org.au/FAQ/.

Roger Caffin is a consultant research scientist. He maintains the aus.bushwalking FAQ and Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW web sites. He is the Editor of the Confederation’s quarterly magazine and a tester at BackpackGearTest.org. Roger started bushwalking at 14 with ex-Army gear. He took up rock climbing and remote exploration walking at University with the girl who later became his wife. Over the last four to five years he and his wife have converted to ultralightweight gear. They prefer long, hard walking and ski-touring trips, from Tasmania to north of Sydney and in Europe. They spend at least two days per week walking or ski touring.
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Product performance review of the Wild Things Belay Jacket, a synthetic insulated backpacking jacket with Epic shell.

The author on a snowshoeing trip during a sleet/snowstorm in The Peaks Wilderness of northern Arizona.
The Wild Things Belay Jacket combines an Epic shell with over an inch of Primaloft One insulation. The Epic by Nextec shell is highly water-resistant and windproof. After several hours of hiking in sleeting rain and snow, moisture managed to soak through only at the shoulder straps and hip belt of my pack with no noticeable loss of loft or warmth. The two hand warmer pockets and full-length main zipper use water-resistant zippers. Along with a zippered inside security pocket, Wild Things added a 1-liter water bottle pocket to the inside, which keeps drinking water from freezing when the mercury drops. At 1 pound 14.0 ounces (850 g, men’s medium), the Wild Things Belay Jacket may not appear lightweight, but it easily replaces several thinner layers making it the lighter choice in the right conditions. Improving arm articulation (which currently causes the hem to rise 7 inches with arms raised above your head) would bring this jacket to perfection.
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• Garment Style |
Full zip, high-loft, synthetic hooded jacket. |
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• Fabric Description |
Epic by Nextec shell with a microfiber liner |
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• Insulation Description |
6.0 oz/yd2 (200 g/m2) Primaloft One throughout |
|
• Other Features |
Two zippered, unlined, and insulated hand-warmer pockets. One zippered inside security pocket. One inside water bottle pocket. Also features an insulated hood. |
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• Weight |
1 lb 14.0 oz (850 g) as measured, size men’s M; 1 lb 12.0 oz (794 g) manufacturer specification |
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• Loft |
1.1 in (2.8 cm) single layer loft |
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• Model Year |
2004 (2005 model includes Velcro cuffs and a three-way hood adjustment) |
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• MSRP |
$285.00 Manufacturer’s suggested retail price |
The Wild Things Belay Jacket is a suitable choice for extreme conditions. The 6.0 oz/yd2 Primaloft One insulation provides just over an inch of single layer loft through the torso, arms, and hood. I tested the jacket during a sleeting rain and snow storm, while snowshoeing hard (to test breathability), and combined with a half-bag as part of a sleeping system.
Harsh conditions outside go nearly unnoticed while wearing this jacket. While at rest, the Primaloft One insulation takes me well into the lower 20’s wearing only a base layer underneath. If greater “at rest” warmth is needed, the fit is roomy enough to allow for a thin synthetic fill or thick fleece jacket in addition to a base layer. I quickly overheated in the Belay Jacket at temperatures just below freezing when active. This jacket is definitely more at home in sub-freezing temperatures.
The Wild Things Belay Jacket is constructed of Epic microfiber fabric to shed bad weather while maintaining a high degree of breathability. While not waterproof, Epic by Nextec is extremely wind proof and water resistant, and lighter and more breathable than PTFE-laminated waterproof breathable fabrics like Gore-Tex. The individual nylon fibers in Epic fabric are silicone encapsulated to create permanent waterproofing of each fiber. This is unlike DWR coatings that wash out with time. Tiny spaces between the fibers provide breathability, and the tight weave and waterproof fibers resist water penetration. This fabric has a nicer feel than most coated, laminated, or impregnated fabrics, more closely resembling an uncoated microfiber.
In use, the Epic shell proved an excellent compromise between breathability and water resistance. Light rain, sleet, and snow shed easily. However, with a water resistance of only 4 lb/in2, water penetration occurred wherever my pack’s harness made contact; soaking completely through at the shoulder straps, hip belt, and upper part of the backpanel. Thankfully, Primaloft One retains most of its loft when wet and little loss of warmth was noticed.
The size medium layers easily over a thick fleece or lightweight insulated jacket on my 5’7″, 155-pound frame. The sleeves are long enough to maintain coverage to the wrist. Torso articulation, while tolerable, is an area in need of improvement. While the hem rises very little (less than 1 inch) with the arms held straight out, nearly 7 inches of rise occurs when raising the arms above the head.
I appreciate the ease with which I can adjust this jacket while wearing gloves. All zippers have extended zipper pulls. The shock cords adjusting the hem and hood are one-hand adjustable with glove friendly hardware. Although the cuffs are non-adjustable elastic, alpine gauntlet style gloves are the logical choice with this jacket and seal the cuffs sufficiently. The full-length water-resistant main zipper provides ventilation by adjusting from both top and bottom.
The two hand warmer pockets are lightly insulated but unlined, and close with YKK water-resistant zippers. The pocket insulation is too thin to keep hands warm in the conditions this jacket was designed for, although they were useful as a brief refuge while I had my gloves off. There are two inside pockets; a small, zippered valuables pocket on the left and an inside “water bottle” pocket on the right (large enough to fit a 1-liter bottle). The water bottle pocket kept my water well above freezing in sub-freezing conditions. I really enjoyed the warmth of a hot water bottle in this pocket. A 1-liter bottle adds more bulk than I like, so I opted for a smaller bottle.
At $285.00, the Wild Things Belay Jacket is at the upper end of the cost spectrum for lightweight high-loft synthetic jackets. However, those of lower cost either have less insulation or lack the Epic shell fabric (or both). The quality construction and features are added consolation.
While perhaps too heavy for the ultralight or lightweight backpacker, the lightweight mountaineer will be right at home in the Wild Things Belay Jacket. A few changes could reduce the weight of this jacket, but doing so would reduce features and weather resistance. I would like to see the torso articulation improved by modifying the sleeve construction. Gusseted arms tend to provide greater arm movement without affecting hem rise.
Ultraviolet irradiation has been used for some time in industrial and home water purification systems, but is new to the portable arena. Meridian Design introduces a portable UV-C purifier that screws onto a standard quart Nalgene bottle. AquaStar kills anything with DNA including protozoa (giardia and cryptosporidium), viruses, and bacteria. The unit weighs 3.1 ounces with two CR-123 (camera type) batteries and 8.5 ounces fully assembled with a polycarbonate (Lexan-Nalgene-type) bottle. The bottle protects the AquaStar from damage and keeps UV-C from eyes. Press a button on the side of the unit for a few seconds and 1 minute later, 1 liter of pure water. Two doses are needed for water below 50 ÂşF. At 35 ÂşF and lower, the unit has been designed not to operate since the UV tube becomes very inefficient at generating UV-C. The User Manual recommends warming cold water to 40 ÂşF and then dosing it. One set of batteries will purify about 70 liters of water. Filtering through a coffee filter is recommended for water with sediment, since sediment can shade organisms from UV-C light. The light tube lasts 2,000 hours.
Weight: 8.5 ounces is not bad for a unit that purifies 1 liter of water in 1 minute, but it’s more than most lightweight backpackers want to carry for water treatment. The Nalgene bottle is heavy and takes up extra pack space since you’ll probably purify the water and put into another container for drinking and cooking. I talked to the inventor, Kurt Kuhlmann, and asked how the AquaStar could be configured lighter. Ditching the Nalgene saves 5 ounces, but the light tube needs to be protected. The tube can withstand some abuse, but not being thrown into a pack unprotected. The light tube unit can be screwed onto a soft-side Nalgene Cantene (Kurt suggests sloshing the water in the Cantene a couple of times during the 1 minute of irradiation to make sure all areas of the water are “hit”) or suspended in a container of water (the surface of the water will safely reflect UV-C rays from the eyes), but some means of protecting the light tube is needed when it is not in use. I suggested a cigar tube. It sounds like Kurt is mulling this all over and might develop a slim threaded tube to cover and protect the light tube if enough lightweighters are interested in this product.
The light tube is 7/8” in diameter and fits into an Aqua Fina bottle mouth but not a narrow mouth bottle. However, water must cover a gold pin at the top of the tube which is mounted on the bottom of a white plastic cylinder 1 ¾” in diameter. The cylinder will not fit into the Aqua Fina mouth so the Aqua Fina bottle would need to be filled to the brim for water to even touch the pin – which might not be effective. The tube can be held suspended in a water container with an opening larger than 1 ¾”. The AquaStar will treat larger volumes of water than 1 liter simply increasing dosage as appropriate.
Of note, the other portable UV purifier that I know of is the Steripen, which weighs 8 ounces with four alkaline AA batteries and 6.4 ounces with lithium batteries. MSRP is $150. One set of alkaline batteries will treat 10 – 20 liters of water, and one set of lithium batteries 65 – 70 liters. Purification of 1 liter of water takes 90 seconds.
Backpacking Light has a unit to test; results will be published when available.
For those of you who thought the Inka pen (Day 1 dispatch) was too heavy at 0.6 ounces, how about the Stowaway at 0.2 ounces! It uses the same pressurized ink cartridge (in fact, Paul Fissure invented it) so it also writes in extreme conditions of altitude, temperature, and underwater. It is about 3 inches long and only costs $8.
Website: www.spacepen.com
Learning a lot from their 3-watt single LED MYO XP, Petzl completely redesigned the Tikka. They call it “a compact, yet powerful headlamp offering both a long-range, focused beam and a diffused wide-angle beam from a single 1-watt LED.”
Like the MYO XP, the boost mode allows long-range lighting up to 164 ft for 20 seconds. A thermal sensor prevents the LED from overheating. Once the unit cools down, the boost mode can once again be activated.
KEY FEATURES:
Compared to the Eos, the Tikka XP weighs a bit less and has longer run times. The Eos has the advantage of current regulation for more constant light output, and can operate continuously in its highest mode. Until we can bench test the Tikka XP we can’t comment on the relative light output for each headlamp in its highest mode. Needless to say, we’re very interested in a side-by-side performance test between these two headlamps.
Detail of Tikka XP showing 2-button operation. Left button activates the boost mode. Right button operates other lighting modes. There is a small tri-color LED on the front of the headlamp (not visible in pic) that indicates battery level. The small, clear tab just right of the letter “l” in Petzl slides over a recessed diffusion lens for wide-angle lighting.
The only feature the Tikka XP lacks is current regulation, but with the flat discharge curve of lithium batteries one could get fairly constant output from this headlamp.
One feature I like is that the boost-lighting button instantly activates the high-output mode for 20 seconds no matter what mode the headlamp is in – even off. This makes great sense for battery conservation while navigating on difficult terrain. I would use my headlamp on low, activating the high beam occasionally in a difficult spot or to scan the route ahead before dropping it back down to low.
Another nice feature is the sliding diffusion lens to turn the focused LED into a flood. The diffusion lens can be interchanged with red, blue, or green lenses.
FEATURES
Based on the award-winning Vapor Trail pack, Granite Gear creates the Alpine Vapor Technical Pack.
The Alpine Vapor uses the Vapor Trail suspension, but is built with High Tenacity 210 denier Cordura throughout the pack and High Tenacity 420 Cordura on the bottom to stand up to the punishment of life on the rocks. Granite Gear also added a Hypalon crampon patch to the front, tool loops to the belt, and a fixed Voile-style cinch system to secure ice axes to the pack.
2 lb 10 oz
3600 in3
$175
Granite Gear also introduces two ski packs.
The Pileus is an 1800 in3 pack with internal pockets to hold shovel handles, skins, and probes; and a padded external pocket for a shovel blade. Together with its hydration-compatible sleeve, you can secure all the backcountry gear. The Pileus is built using a high-density polyethylene frame and padded harness system, the same one used in the Vapor Trail pack.
2 lb 13 oz
$120
The Quick Quiver (Q2) 1000 in3 pack has a narrow top and wide base, creating a shelf that allows skis to be easily strapped in without removing the pack from the back. Hypalon lashing straps prevent skis from slipping. The main body has a large compartment with pockets capable of stowing shovel handles, skins, probes, extra layers, and food supplies. The Q2 also uses a high-density polyethylene frame and padded harness system.
2 lb 8 oz
$115
Both ski packs are made with high-tenacity 210-denier fabric with Cordura for abrasion-resistant protection and durability. Water-repellent YKK matte zippers are used to keep snow and ice from getting inside the pack.
Gregory has revamped their G Pack for 2005. It is slightly smaller, fabric durability has been improved, the front mesh pocket is now segmented, and a new Wraptor stabilizer has been added.
Key Features:
One of the standard fabrics in an ultralighter’s arsenal just got better. My R2 vest has been on three out of my last four trips.
Patagonia introduces a lighter and more compact R2 and R3 fleece. R2 and R3 fleece use “variegated” fibers, a fancy way of saying they use both short and long fibers. The long fibers provide more loft with less bulk while the shorter dense fibers improve insulation and wind resistance. The fabric already had a cool look and now has an even sexier finish.
Weight of the R2 jacket in men’s medium is 12.5 oz (354g).
The new Patagonia R2 Jacket.
Note: The R1 and R0.5 fabrics remain relatively the same.
The 470 g (16.5 oz) Cosmi’tec is new to the Winter OR show. It’s a classic mountaineering and glacier travel axe. But with its slightly curved shaft and tapered and recurved pick it will do a credible job on steep ice. The shaft bend is shallow enough to allow for deep plunges and a solid anchor in soft snow. A great multipurpose axe.
New to the Summer OR show was the 450 g (16.0 oz) Snowscopic, a combination axe and trekking pole. It can be used on steep approaches. And sometimes a trekking pole works better on a glacier and steep snow than an axe.
Icebreaker figures they’ve pretty much got their Superfine190 (190 g/m2) long sleeve crew design dialed in. I agree (see my 2004 Staff Pick)! This spring they bring out a limited edition of this thin, superfine merino wool crew with patterns of nature (leaf, vine) designed by a New Zealand artist and dyed onto the front of the shirt. A super comfortable and attractive shirt just gets nicer.
Icebreaker staff members Fran and Justin model the short sleeve patterned crews and display the long sleeve crews.
Ibex Nelson with 17.5 micron WoolElite fabric for the ultimate in next to skin comfort.
I posted about the Smartwool very light long sleeved crew in a Day 1 dispatch. Ibex also has a similar product; their Woolies rib crew (18.5 micron, 6.5 oz). And an even finer 17.5 micron fabric WoolElite version n their Nelson long sleeve crew for the ultimate in next to skin comfort.
Those of you who enjoy the thermal properties of a thin layer of wool next-to-skin, now have a choice!
Website: www.ibexwear.com
Backpacking friendly individual serving packs of instant green tea – what a concept. The buzz on green tea is that it’s “good for you.” It has antioxidants that are more potent than vitamin C. TeaTech suggests XtraGreen instant tea as an alternative to your daily serving of orange juice. I don’t know about that, but I loved the stuff. It is sweetened with sucralose (Splenda brand), and I just kept chugging it down throughout the OR show. Definitely better than any green tea I’ve ever had. TeaTech has a patent pending process they claim “is the most efficient way to extract the naturally-occurring health nutrients found in fresh green tea leaves.” The tea comes in single serving “sticks” that are added to 16 ounces of water.
Wild Things has a new 1.8 oz/yd2 PL1 insulated jacket, the Primalight. It weighs 14.6 ounces with a full front zip and zip pockets. The large size fit our tall, athletically built model perfectly. Articulation could be better though; the cuffs stayed in place with arms straight out to the sides, but exposed wrists when the arms were overhead and the bottom hem lifted also several inches.
Justin models a size L Primalight
Wild Things has updated the cuffs on the EP Hooded and Belay jackets, both now have Velcro cuffs instead of lycra in response to customer requests. Both now have a three-way hood adjustment as well. The pockets on the EP jacket have been raised to make them more hipbelt friendly and the EP is now available in a hoodless version. They have not updated their venerable AT pack.
Snow Peak released a prototype neoprene cozy for their titanium mugs. The cozy is as yet unnamed – they’re having a naming contest with a $500 prize. Since there was only one cozy, they wouldn’t let me take it back to my hotel room to weigh it, but I’d guess it weighs about 0.6 ounces. The cozy is constructed of 5 mm neoprene. It has a webbing handle so you can hold your cup of cozied steaming brew, and a notch on the opposite side for the mug handles to be folded out, if they aren’t to hot to handle. The webbing strap unfastens at the bottom, flips over the top, and Velcro’s to the opposite side so you can fasten down a lid on top of the mug during food rehydration. The cozy is due out spring ’06. By the way, I put a bug in their ear about manufacturing a handle-less 600 ml ti cup – just think of the gram savings!
GoLite claims that the Xirtram (Matrix backwards) is a fully waterproof softshell. WE always thought that a softshell was a fabric with reasonable air permeability (better than 2 cfm or so) and therefore could never be waterproof but everyone is entitled to their own definition. Anyway it is an exciting concept.
The Fusion fabric on the Xirtam does look and feel every bit like a stretchy softshell! The fabric is a combination of a waterproof breathable stretch PU membrane with a polyester tricot liner – essentially a softshell fabric with a waterproof breathable membrane laminated between the outer shell and the nappy inner liner. An inspection of the jacket revealed seam tape on “fuzzy” fabric, a technology that we’re hearing a lot about now. The breathability of the Fusion fabric is high, 4000 MVTR (no test given) – according to GoLite: better than PackLite, and approaching that of Power Shield.
No matter how much this looks and feels like a softshell, and no matter how breathable the WP/B membrane is, this will not be as breathable as a true softshell with air permeability. Nonetheless it may be an excellent compromise between a hardshell and softshell and extend the working range of fully waterproof shells. We imagine that the wicking layer may improve the performance of the WP/B membrane by creating a force to push water through. Stay tuned, we are on the very short list to test this jacket!
GoLite also makes Oen pants (Neo backwards) out of the same Fusion fabric.
The Sil Wing is a fully catenary cut tarp (both ridge line and edges). Edges are taped. 8 feet by 7 feet. Eight reinforced tie out loops. Weight 12 ounces.
Insulated Silcoat Stuff Sacs use silnylon shells and Primaloft insulation. They keep water from freezing in the winter and the longer version keeps a bottle of wine or two cans of beer cool in the summer. No weight given, but certainly lighter than most insulated holders.
Wrist Warmers. Pertex Microlight shells, loose elastic, and Primaloft insulate the wrists where blood circulates near the surface to keep your hands warmer without affecting dexterity. A tip from legendary climber Mark Twight!
ID gets a lot of requests for a functional bivy sac that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg, especially from youth groups. Integral responds with a no frills bivy sac that still includes a PTFE shell, durable coated nylon floor, and a bug netting screen across the face – all for only $160. Weight 1pound 12 ounces.
The ParaLiner is 1.1 oz/yd2 parachute ripstop nylon sleeping bag liner that acts like a semi-vapor barrier to improve the warmth of your sleeping bag. Integral claims that it is not as clammy as a true vapor barrier and adds approx 5 degrees F to a bag’s temperature rating. It also works to keep your bag clean. 5 ounces.
Komperdell showed us an all carbon-fiber shovel, which includes a carbon-fiber blade and two-piece adjustable carbon-fiber shaft. The only non-carbon-fiber elements are a stainless reinforcement to the shovel blade edge and a plastic handle grip. This is a lightweight shovel that can really cut through and move some hard, crusty snow without bending or falling appart.
A companion to the shovel will be an all carbon-fiber avalanche probe. If it specs out as good as it looked at the show, it should compete with the Life-Link Carbon Fiber Speed Light probes, and maybe a bit lighter!
Again, both these items are so new that there is no literature, no weights, and no specs available. We will get information and test models as soon as we can.
See our previous post on the Sarvis tents
The usual production delays, but Big Agnes seems close to getting the Sarvis tents to market. Big Agnes expects silnylon models in two weeks and the eVENT-paneled version in six weeks. We’ll be testing the SL 2+ eVENT version in the near future!
They told us that they’ve made more than a few tweaks to improve the tents. The all silnylon version gets better ventilation with a cool, 3-point tieout to a single anchor point. The eVENT-paneled version has faster pitching and gets a price break: $299 from $359 for the 1+, and $399 from $469 for the 2+.

The all silnyon Sarvis: Better ventilation and a cool, 3-point tieout to a single anchor point. Each line has an adjustable tensioner to get things just right.