Introduction
The Canadian Rockies are full of backpacking opportunities which are well-traveled but secluded. One scenic route is the Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. I have had the benefit of backpacking many of the trails in the Canadian Rockies. However, I have never managed to make it out to the Skyline Trail. Also, the limited number of backpackers permitted on the trail at one time ensures a relatively private trip, and the elevation of the trail provides unparalleled views.
I grew up hearing my mom, and my almost ninety-year-old Grandma tell fond stories of a woman I resemble but never knew. Auntie Marion died at a young age, and Grandma says I am like her: willowy, possessing a keen outspoken mind, and having a propensity to be something of an “old maid” with unusual hobbies (like photography and backpacking).
Auntie Marion hiked the Skyline Trail many years before I was born and I wanted to see what she did and bring my grandmother back the photos. As you might have guessed, Grandma enjoys seeing her grandchildren living and progressing. I can’t help but want to bring photos back to see her smile.
Trip Review
Planning and Preparation
Aside from booking permits, I needed to do little in preparation for the Skyline Trail. In March, I booked permits for a mid-August trek (and by that time in the summer my gear and my physical conditioning is in a relatively “grab and go” state). Considerations for the Skyline Trail which I did not plan for every other trip of my summer included: a high alpine route, snowstorm, bears, and caribou.
Travel Style
I have one friend who agreed to head out with me on this trail. We’d do a full gear split and work as a team to prevent redundancy. When I booked permits, I only had the option of a three-night booking due to available campsites. We’d stay at Little Shovel, Curator, and Signal Road Campsites. Also, with short days and ample daylight hours, this hike would be a fast, light and relaxing “milk run.”
Logistical Notes
The Skyline Trail has limited campsites. Campsites are booked in advance, on a first come, first serve basis. Booking starts online in January. In this area, I expect snowstorms at any time.
In addition to booking permits, I recommend booking a campsite near Jasper if you need to stay overnight prior to arrival at the trailhead. Also, camping in the area is limited and can be full and booked well in advance. I booked Pocahontas Campground off Highway 16.
A bus from Maligne Valley Direct Shuttle can be scheduled from one trailhead to the other to facilitate the use of one vehicle for transport to the trail. If you are in the townsite without a vehicle, you can hop on the shuttle in Jasper and shuttle to the trailhead and back. I booked the earliest bus (9 AM) from the Signal Mountain Trailhead to the Malign Lake Trailhead. Parking at both trailheads is limited, and I recommend booking the bus and arriving early in the morning or late in the afternoon to ensure a parking space.
Also, the least elevation gain route starts at Maligne Lake hiking northwest towards the Jasper townsite. The Maligne Lake start route is the most popular option but is certainly not without elevation gain. Starting from Maligne Lake gains 2700 ft (820 m). Starting from Signal Mountain Fire Road gains 4450 ft (1350 m) of elevation.
Equipment Notes
Aside from the constant threat of high winds and summer snowstorms, the Skyline Trail has very few major concerns. Campsites are semi-primitive and have bear hangers, cook areas, tent pads, and open-air pit toilets. The Skyline Trail bans dogs, fires, horses and mountain bikes at all times. The area around the Skyline Trail is environmentally sensitive, and there are limited trail use permits issued.
Photo Journal
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Companion forum thread to: The Skyline Trail: A Canadian Rockies Gem
Introduction The Canadian Rockies are full of backpacking opportunities which are well-traveled but secluded. One scenic route is the Skyline Trail in
Nice trip report. Is that weather typical for earlier in the season as well?
On behalf of my countrymen, I’m sorry to hear about their behavior. Did you feel you could not speak to them directly about it? In a few cases it might cause them to think.
Years ago my friend and I were lying in a tent in a campground somewhere in Canada, along the Alaskan Highway. Some boys were camped nearby, drinking, and they got louder and louder as the night progressed. They finally came to our tent to ask us to join them. We were terrified- 4-5 of them and only two of us. We said no and they left us alone. The next day they came over to apologize for their party and recommended that we carry guns when camping!
Hi Karen,
Yes, very typical weather for the area. Earlier in the season can be even worse. Many of the high passes this far North are frozen shut well into the summer months. I have aspirations of traveling to another similar area called Lake O’hara. The area is not accessible until late June / July at best. The Mount Robson area is also similar, one of the famous passes there (Snowbird Pass) can be untravelable well into August on occasion.
Haha, I did in fact consider saying something. Two things held me back. First, I am classically Canadian and didn’t want to offend them. Which in retrospect is a rather amusing cultural paradox. Someone is being ‘offensive’ but heaven forbid I offend them by saying something…. Second, on occasion, I’ve also seen some portions of the population intentionally become more obnoxious when someone says something. Not sure if anyone else has seen that much but it always crosses my mind when in that situation.
I guarantee, I would have said something if they had started cooking next to my tent though. I would have come unglued. I learned one thing about myself when I came face to face with a couple Grizz in close quarters, I don’t care much for being eyed up as their next meal. I’ll do anything to prevent encouraging their presence in ‘my personal bubble.’ In that case though, I am certain my face said louder and clearer what my lips did not.
Guns? In Canada? Haha must have been Alaskans, our government doesn’t like when it’s citizens have guns. Though the apologizing sounds very Canadian, but only if they apologized and then apologized for apologizing…. Mildly tongue in cheek, however it would be fairly rare to meet too many Canadians ‘packing’ in the National Parks. It’s actually completely prohibited/illegal. In some of the non-park areas, known as Crown Land, you’ll run into hunters who are ‘packing’ but only during hunting seasons. There are a few others you’ll run into all season, like those with livestock/horses or hunting guides scouting for hunting grounds off season. Crown Land is exceptionally wild and rarely has trails. It does usually house a lot of cougars, problem (read habituated and or failure to avoid human contact and minimal deterrents failed) grizzly and black bears exported from parks and towns which is why you’ll run into more ‘packers’ there. Last resort with the rogues.
You’ll also have the possible displeasure of meeting obnoxious ATVer’s who pack a bunch of garbage in and don’t clean up afterwards. Or pack a bunch of booze in, crank stereos and have loud obnoxious parties. A personal pet peeve of mine. Everywhere which becomes vehicle accessible, like campgrounds, unfortunately tend to have a higher population of the inconsiderate. I have had some awful nights in campgrounds in every country I’ve ever stayed in. I’m all for having a good time but there should be some restraint no matter where you are or are from. Just my ten cents, but I thing every Outdoor user should consider their noise impact on others.
Nice trip report, thanks
I did that in 1980. Other Canadian trips over the years. It seems like Canadians are several decades behind the U.S. in becoming rude : )
Sorry you had a bunch of crap to deal with for a 27 mile hike. If you need a permit to hike then it is most likely busy enough you won’t avoid these situations. Better to go where less people go. Or expect the RVer mentality.
OOOH!!!! Jerry do you have photos! My great Aunt hiked there in the 70’s/80’s and I really want to see what it was like. She was a prolific photographer but her photos were donated to a historical society when she died but no one remembers which one.
I may agree with you on that last statement. You should see the look on any traveling Canadian’s face when someone says: ‘Canadian? Just like the Americans, it’s like all the same country.’ If looks could kill…. while they politely say nothing. 😂 I truly hope painfully polite remains part of Canadian national pride. That said I have met many wonderful Americans. I think the biggest thing, is there are many more of them and by sheer number of exposures ‘rude’ interactions will occurs.
sorry, no pictures
One thing I remember was on this large open area, there was this herd of Caribou that surrounded us, we had a dog (on leash) that thought this was pretty amazing. And we saw the Aurora. And we ate some bad food the morning before so we were quite sick the first night.
From remembering the wilderness here in Oregon 50 years ago or whatever, I think it’s mostly the same. We have done fairly well preserving our wildernesses.
Hi Emylene! Thanks for your trip report and wonderful pictures, which in many ways remind me of our Beartooth Plateau here in Montana…it’s a different kind of hike than in the PNW rainforest, that’s fer sure. As for your unfortunate encounter with my compatriot bozos, well, they’re everywhere. And as the years roll by it seems that there are more of them; I refer to them as hall-of-famers.
I’m glad you discovered the joys and utility of the bumbershoot! For thirty years of living in the PNW I never went up into the mountains without one…better than a Gore-tex jacket anyday, so good for you.
Happy trails!
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