Wind River Advice

[Five Star]

Looking at doing a 7-8 day trip in the Winds starting Labor Day weekend.  Tentatively would like to start out at Green Lakes, hit a lot of the Highline Trail, get in visits to Titcomb Basin/Island Lake/The Cirque and possibly walk out at Big Sandy.  I haven’t delved too deeply into the Beartooth maps I just received, plus I know a lot of folks on BPL tromp the Winds on the regular.  Anybody have a “dream trip” route they could share that satisfies the above?  We are all experienced AT section hikers but this would be our first trip out west.  The most challenging hike we’ve done to date was the Smokies section of the AT the week after Christmas several years ago.

Also, am I correct that bear canisters are not required?  I would prefer to bring my Ursack.  TIA.

[Lester Moore]

Taking the Highline and Fremont trails from Green River Lakes to Big Sandy with a side trip to Titcomb & Indian Basins would be a good weeklong trip. Lots of options for side trips and summits along the way.

I’ve never had trouble finding hangs for food. Even above treeline, with a little campsite selection, you can find an overhanging boulder to hang your food if there are no trees.

September in the Winds can be very nice and sunny and bug-free. But it can easily get below freezing at night and could easily snow too, so consider your gear list accordingly.

[John Vance]

This would be perfect for the Alan/Dixon Windriver high route.  Do a search and you should find some discussion regarding the route including some very detailed trail notes that allow pretty much anyone the ability to travel cross country.  This would be a turn key Green River Lakes to Big Sandy hike allowing for a couple of easier days in the beginning to allow flatlanders time to acclimate. ?

[Ben C]

I agree that you should look at Alan Dixon’s Wind River High Route.  It starts at Green River Lakes and ends at Big Sandy. You might also want to look at Skurka’s route as well.  I did most of Alan Dixon’s route last Labor day week.  You could incorporate parts of each.

A word of caution about the high routes: they are a LOT harder than walking trails in the Smokies.  It’s mostly off trail.  Navigation is required.  You are often walking talus and some glaciers. You can go about half as many miles as in the Smokies, maybe less.

But the off trail routes are spectacular.  We were often disappointed when we got back on trail because it was just not the same.

Last labor day, the day started with thunder snow storms as we gingerly crossed the Knifepoint Glacier.  The day ended with us struggling to keep our tent from blowing away in a blizzard on an exposed lake shore.  Other days were nicer but it was in the 20s most nights.  I’m sure it was a bit tamer a little lower down on the trails.

I would say it’s a tough first western backpacking trip, if you do the off-trail routes.  I would do a lot of preparation if you have never hiked in the west.  Again, the trails are easier but, to me, were not nearly as fun.

We used an Ursack and never saw a bear.

[Lester Moore]

+1 on what Ben said. If in any doubt about the weather, plan on camping at lower elevations and at less exposed locations.

If you’re keen to see Titcomb Basin and want to sample some moderate off-trail hiking, consider connecting Island Lake with Cook Lakes via Island Lake Pass. Other than a little route finding around Long Lake, it’s a very scenic, short and straightforward off-trail segment that could fit nicely with your on-trail plans.

[Ben C]

Dropping into Titcomb Basin was special.  It was early in the trip for us.

https://goo.gl/photos/WT3K3LxqSvkTPosdA

The Alpine Lakes were a step up in difficulty, solitude, and beauty.

https://goo.gl/photos/VNTZAhm2nwdc91Mx5

 

[Five Star]

Thanks for all of the replies.  I’m going to play with the map and see how Lester’s idea works out.  I’ve already been checking out Dixon’s High Route, and I’m going to reluctantly pass (this time).  My navigational skills possibly are not up to the task; it SEEMS easy enough, but I don’t think that would be the place and time to discover a whoops moment, even though we count a physician, an EMT and a firefighter among us.  I think sticking to the trails will still be more than spectacular enough for our group.  And of course it may well whet an appetite to return another day to do things differently.  Also, as a middle-aged arthritic guy, I consider a 15 mile day to be a stellar effort in mountainous terrain (10-12 is more typical), so going off trail might hinder us time-wise.

I am planning to bring a Katabatic 22 degree Flex quilt and appropriate clothing to handle cold nights.  We’re all experienced in single digit weather at least.

Nice to hear the Ursack will suffice too.

[Lester Moore]

Ben – very nice photo of Mt. Lester in the distance. Climbed Lester in 1992 on my first Winds trip (and first week-long solo trip) – always a special memory.

Five Star – you’ll have a blast and see exceptional scenery on the tails for sure. Double check on the bear hanging regulations with Pinedale ranger station before your trip – it’s been several years since hiking in the Winds and one never knows when rules may change.

[Arthur]

For what it is worth:  A few years ago we were in an off trail area of the Winds. Over the hill comes a guy who was totally frazzeled. Deer in the headlights look.  He said we had done most all of the AT in a couple of sections and it was his first trip out west.  He said this was the hardest hiking he had ever done. No people, no trails, serious altitude, constantly worried he was lost.  He was 2 days behind his schedule after 4 days in what was supposed to be a similar off trail path that has been suggested.  He must have made it home, never read about him.  Bear hanging is required this year for the first time.  Only suggested till now. Forest service has reported increased grizzly populations.

 

[BlackHatGuy]

@mammoman

I’ve got a 2010 copy of Nancy Pallister’s “Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains of Wyoming” that you’re welcome to for the cost of shipping. Includes a CD with pics and maps. She has an updated version she just released so I no longer have use of this one (since I bought the updated one).

If interested, let me know, give me your address and I’ll let you know what shipping is. When you’re done with it, pass it on to someone else the same way.

[Brad Rogers]

Doug – Thanks for letting me know about Pallister’s revisions – I didn’t know and will pick it up.  I have her original version and second the suggestion to pick it up.

I did week long trips in WRR in 2012, 2014, and 2016 and it is a wonderful area.  Is there any reason that you want to start at Green River Lakes, in particular?   I am not saying it is a bad place to start as I started there in 2012.

I would have a back-up plan in case someone gets altitude sickness since this is your first time out west.  In 2012 we were going to do Pallister’s trip #47 but my hiking partner was really feeling the effects of the altitude and we turned around on Knifepoint Glacier as I was afraid he wouldn’t make it on the harder more remote second half of the trip.  We ended up winging it the next few days and still had a great trip.

If nobody gets altitude sickness the trails aren’t really any harder than the Smokies, but the AT through the Smokies isn’t nearly as tough as a lot of trails in the park.  You will get some talus walking, which is something we don’t get much in the southeast, so that takes some getting used to.

Maybe take the Highline trail in from Green River Lakes then skirt off toward Peak Lake skirt around the side of it to the headwaters of Green River, then over Knapsack Col and into Titcomb Basin, take a side trip up to Indian Basin, then head south to Island Lake where you could pick the Highline Trail back up and go back north to Lower and Upper Jean Lakes, then go west to Elbow Lake and on to New Fork Trail past Lozier Lakes (also known as Kenny Lake) to the Porcupine Trail, which you can follow back to Green River Lakes.  That loop is mostly on trail, with one easy to follow trip over Knapsack Col off trail to get your feet wet.

I have hung food on one trip, and used canisters two times on trips to WRR and found it was certainly possible to find a place to hang, it was time consuming.  You could certainly use a Ursack and I had one person use one this past year and it worked well.

I think the last week of August- first week of September is the best time of year in WRR.  We got 10 inches of snow in 2014, but it melted off pretty quick.  I would expect lows down to around 20.   In 2012 it was really hot and highs were probably in the mid to high 70’s a couple of days.  For those of us from the east the sun is brutal, so be prepared for that.  You will also be pleasantly surprised at how quickly everything dries.

You will have a fantastic trip!!

[Five Star]

@Doug- PM sent

@Brrad-  Ah yes, altitude sickness.  I was hoping that starting down at 8,000 ft. and hiking slowly for a day or two would help acclimate us Southeasterners.  I myself have been up to 9500 ft. a day after living near sea level, and without incidence, several times….but you never know.  Is pretreating with Diamox something that could be beneficial?

[John Klinepeter]

Arthur–thanks for the news about the food storage requirement change.  I will have to explore the USFS websites to see what has changed.  IIRC correctly it used to be the case that the Shoshone Forest was slightly more forgiving (my reading and interpretation) in its storage requirements vs. the Bridger Forest.  In either case I follow safe practices by most commonly hanging food bags or occasionally by using bear canisters.

Here is a little history.  Apparently the revised food storage order took effect in June of 2016.

http://www.jhnewsandguide.com/news/environmental/entire-wind-range-a-food-storage-zone/article_bfd4571f-f5ba-55d5-b99d-4edb8eece95b.html

Here is the latest food storage order I could easily find:

http://igbconline.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Bridger-Teton_04-03-330_Shoshone_16-001_Combined.pdf

You are then lead to the approved list of “containers”:

http://igbconline.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/161216_Certified_Products_List.pdf

Among the approved containers is the Ursack S29 AllWhite.  I sure hope my links show up properly and work :)

 

Five Star–IMO a 22 degree bag or quilt is ideal for early to mid September.  Low temperatures can be from the low 20’s to the low 40’s in my experience at +/- 10,000 feet.

 

Only in the last two years have I seen trail heads signed for bear activity; two summers ago at Green River Lake, Trail #144, and last year at Big Sandy, Trail #105.

[Arthur]

Look up Dr. Howard Donner on youtube. He has a whole series on high altitude sickness, and other great wilderness medical things.   Diamox has worked for me for years. I use way less than the suggested dose, just for the first 2 nights.  Since altitude sickness is random and not scientifically predictable, my suggestion only works for me.  His best advice on avoiding altitude sickness it to pick your parents. Do take note on his advise that Diamox ruins the taste of beer.

[Five Star]

“Diamox ruins the taste of beer”

We won’t be imbibing for several days, but our “consumables” are more UL than beer.

[Ben C]

My wife uses Diamox with success at altitude.  She really struggled at 8-9000 feet without it.  With it, she has had no ill effects.

I tried it once too.  I was complaining that the beer at the brewery we stopped at tasted metallic.  I went to another place.  It also had metallic tasting beer.  I finally looked up the side effects of Diamox.  The ruining of beer was the the most serious.  Less serious was the tingling in the fingers and toes.

[Lester Moore]

Five Star – if you can swing the time off, I’d highly recommend a short sightseeing trip to the Tetons for one or two nights to acclimatize to the altitude before beginning your backpack. It’s only a few hours drive from Pinedale and one of the “grandest” places in the mountain West. Even starting at Green River Lakes, many people would have a tough time with the altitude if flying in from sea level and starting to hike immediately. I used Diamox a little on Denali many years ago, and while it may have helped with my headaches, proper acclimatization for a few days is by far the best way to cope with the altitude.

[Five Star]

We’re driving all the way from Alabama lol.  I agree I may have to give us at least one acclimatization day.

[Brad Rogers]

I have never used Diamox so I  can’t comment on it.  I have done 8 trips above 10K feet coming from 700ft the day before and have had no issues (knock on wood), but at least half of my trips someone I was with got sick.

[BlackHatGuy]

@Five Star

Did you get my PM?

[Five Star]

@Doug….reply sent.  Thanks.

[Charles M]

Five Star – as a fellow Southeastener I can promise you that you will fall in love with the Winds.  You can handle the Highline, Titcomb Basin… I’m 62 and several of us have hiked all over the Winds.  I’ve tried Diamox but it seems to contribute to dehydration so I haven’t used it for several years.  We are hiking the JMT southbound this Sep.

[Five Star]

I think we’re going to hit the road on a Friday and drive 24 hours straight to Pinedale and spend Saturday night there.  Will hopefully start the shuttling Sunday, with my car going to Big Sandy TH and us peeps to Green River Lakes TH.  We’ll spend the night there before hitting the trail Monday morning; this should give us close to 48 acclimatization time.  If all goes well we will spend 8 days focusing on the Fremont Trail, and have a “side day” where we explore Titcomb and Indian Basins.  I’m torn on Diamox but at this point will probably forego it, hope the extra day to acclimatize helps, and that the first day on the trail (won’t gain much altitude) helps even more.  Will focus on hydration and may go the Ibuprofen route.

[Arthur]

As you head south on the Highline, get over to the Fremont asap unless you are comfortable off trail.  They become parallel but the Highline comes and goes in its southern section.  Definitely get to Titcomb or other places closer to the divide above tree line. Shouldn’t be missed.

[Sean B]

Two of my brothers and I did our first trip out west to the WRR last year. We are also flatlanders (Northern VA) so we took some precautions for altitude (if you ignore the beers the night before at the brewery in Pinedale). We stayed at night at the Elkhart Park Trailhead which I believe is around 9k ft. From there we hiked to Pole Creek Lakes, over Lester Pass, to Fremont Crossing, Peak Lake, Knapsack Col, Titcomb Basin, Island Lake and back out Elkhart Park. Most of this was on the Highline trail but we wanted to experience some off trail so we added the peak lake to titcomb basin over knapsack Col and it was awesome. Definitely got our “feet wet” with off trail travel. This loop was about 5 miles and we did it in 4.5 days taking our time. We did not have altitude issues besides the normal difficult breathing a bit. I’d recommend this route with a side trail to  Indian Basin to extend the trip a bit. Good luck and enjoy. We certainly did.

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