Topic

Ultralight Ice Axe & Crampons

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
Steve Schmid BPL Member
PostedApr 29, 2016 at 11:15 am

Greetings,

I am looking for a lightweight ice axe and crampons to safely get over steep passes during 3 season use. This would mainly be early summer through early fall when much of the snow has melted off.

For instance, i want to do Langley in late July and prefer to tackle old army pass instead of new army.

Outdoorgearlab seems to think the Petzl Literide 50cm axe works fine even though it is short. For my intended use do you think this short of an axe would suffice? I think the answer is yes.

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Ice-Axe-Reviews

Second, what is the preferred lightweight crampon these days that is designed for trail runners? I’m thinking something aluminum since they will seldom get used in my scenario.

 

Lester Moore BPL Member
PostedApr 29, 2016 at 12:12 pm

What about the Camp Corsa? If all you want is something that you can self arrest with on moderate snow, the Camp Corsa should be fine and is lighter. Unless I’m mistaken it’s the lightest ax rated for snow anchors. If you plan on lots of snow climbing though, especially if it’s steep and hard snow, then a beefier ax may be prudent.

As for length, if you’re 5’8″ ish, then a 70 and 80 cm mountain/snow ax is ideal for easy snow climbing and glacier travel because they are long enough to use in the cane position very comfortably all day long. However, my next snow ax will be a 50cm to keep things as light as possible while still offering self arrest abilities. For comparison, my 45 and 55cm technical ice axes work OK on easy snow even though they are short, and they are long enough for self arrest.

Crampons – I like microspikes instead for easy snow, unless there’s a lot of snow, or it gets steep or hard. The technique is different with microspikes though, requiring flat feet (no front points) for climbing and traversing. OK if your comfortably using them and know their limitations.

Steve Schmid BPL Member
PostedApr 29, 2016 at 5:39 pm

Thanks for your inputs Lester.

 

I won’t be doing ice climbing. I just need something to self belay and self arrest and want the lightest option possible for getting up a steep (potentially) pass in the event that unexpected snow is in the early summer or early fall. There could be ice so i want to opt for crampons instead of microspikes.

Nick Otis BPL Member
PostedApr 29, 2016 at 6:14 pm

Steve, I’m in the exact same boat as you. I’m interested in the answers people give because this is a new thing for me too.

Justin Baker BPL Member
PostedApr 29, 2016 at 8:35 pm

I am looking for the same things as well. I was thinking about getting some of the ruta locura instep crampons, I figure those should work well for hard snow. My usage would be climbing steep snowed out passes in the sierras in early season, not really dealing with ice. My issue is finding something that will work with flexible minimalist shoes like my new balance mt10v4’s.

James holden BPL Member
PostedApr 29, 2016 at 9:06 pm

microspikes (or the equivalents) and the lightest rated ice axe you can find .. steel head and spike if theres any ice

if you want something more substantial they make aluminum alpine crampons …

as to length … thats up to you and depends how much you want to use it for walking/self belay

;)

PostedApr 30, 2016 at 8:08 am

For crampons, I think you have to figure out what fits your shoes best.  I like the petzl literide for times when I need a real axe, for crossing passes, I don’t want to have to carry something for just in case.  I’d rather use the black diamond whippet.   The older ones have a removable spike, so the whippet replaces one of my trekking poles and adds the nominal weight of the spike instead of the weight of an axe.

 

 

 

 

PostedMay 2, 2016 at 3:54 pm

I have the Suluk 46 TiCa “Ice Tool”. At 5oz I think it’s worth considering for your uses. It works great an cane for walking up slopes and it self arrests well. It’s a bit light to chop steps in ice quickly, but it’s a pretty good tool for the spring high elevation hiker.

Mine is 70cm. I was hesitant about ordering that long but I wouldn’t want it any shorter for use as a cane.

Gary Pikovsky BPL Member
PostedMay 2, 2016 at 4:23 pm

+1 Suluk 46 Tica – best non-technical axe I’ve ever had. Going on 5th season.

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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