BRS 3000 deluxe?

interesting hack.  The flame still looks blue which is good.  The BRS 3000 is so lightweight – it would be worth it making it work better

Very nice.

What is the diameter and height?

Excellent mod. The fuel savings is very good. Doesn’t look like it will add much bulk or weight to your kit. If you find a relatively sheltered place to fire the stove this might be all that is needed for efficiency.

Whoa. Brilliant! So small and light, and minimal fiddle factor. I need to give this a try!

yeah. great mod! great design targeted at the problem area. does it restrict oxygen intake or create a build up of gasses? Probably not.

I use the outer portion of a Caldera Cone as a wind screen (as people are sick of hearing). It weighs about an ounce and can function on its own as a pot support for a wood chip fire underneath if things go wrong with my stove. Never happened, but…it’s an excellent wind screen! I cook solo so water boils quickly and the canister never gets hot with this method–altho I test it with my finger every time.

The dimensions are: internal diameter 18 mm (tight fit on the burner), height 16.5 mm.

The height is just a first guess. There’s 7 mm clearance between the tube and the pot and it works and doesn’t restrict the flame too much.

I may try to make the clearance even smaller to increase the velocity of the flame leaving the tube. Quick calculation shows that to keep the free cross-section the same as the surface area of the burner itself, the gap would be only 4.5 mm. Some margin should be added for the change of the direction of the flow which adds some pressure, but something like 5 or 6 mm may work.

If you put a hole on the side and a flame comes out, the internal pressure may be too high.  That might help you to tune in the gap.  My 2 cents.

Now that is cute!
Cheers

I made a final version of the tube, now from a thin titanium sheet. Compared to the prototype, it is spot-welded and has tabs for attaching it to the burner. It works perfectly, an weights one gram.

And finally, it serves as a platform for adding a piezo igniter:

Wow! I just got one of these stoves. Do you think aluminum from a baking sheet or turkey roasting pan like they have at the grocery store would work? Or does it have to be something like a can of beans?

Aluminium melts at 660 C. A dull red in steel means it is over 700 C.
I have never seen aluminium actually glowing: it is always a small molten puddle before it gets that hot.
Steel and titanium will work OK.

Cheers

Awesome. This version has three little feet/legs that I don’t see on the original prototype. I assume they sit on the three pot supports inside the hinges? Does it create a space a the base of the tube for more air to get in, or does it seal tight to the burner?

looking at the photos, the pot support arms get red hot

the windscreen does not get red hot, so it’s not as hot

I bet aluminum would work.  It might start eroding with use, but that wouldn’t make that much difference.  At least for that trip.

with aluminum pie plate material, you could just fold it over itself to keep it in place, rather than spot welding.  Since it’s so thin, it would be more likely to erode from heat.

It’s amazing how easy it is to make the pot support legs get red hot. No wonder they have a history of deforming while in use.

Hikin Jim’s photo

David,

The  tube sits on the pot supports, and the tabs extend below it and are bent around the edge. This holds the tube in place. The tube itself wraps the burner tight, there are no vents. The first version without these tabs was just pressed tightly onto the burner, and it held in place quite well too.

Jerry,

You’re right that the windshield tube doesn’t get red hot, at least in these pictures. If I remember, the upper edge had got red hot in some of the tests. The lower part never had. I won’t use aluminum there.

What stove has pot support arms that don’t glow red in the wind?  I can’t name one. In the pictures below it may not show it but that is because the arms may not be directly down wind  but off to the side, I have seen this on basically every stove that I have tested in the wind.

This also one of the dangers of using an HX pot with the shroud of the HX assembly sitting directly on the pot support arm.  In high wind, the flame can been blown off the bottom of the pot to the point where it has melted section of the aluminum shrouding.  I have seen at least 1 of these cases.  My 2 cents.

I have attached 3 photos of damaged BRS3000-T stoves. They are not wonderful, but they are all I have. I hope they help.

The first one shows the ‘damaged arm’ on a BRS3000-T. You have to look closely to see where the damage is. It is not the pot support arm: that is intact. It is the bracket holding the pot support arm: it has twisted. Look at the blue line underneath. This cannot have been done by heat as the flames go nowhere near it.
The second shows what I think has happened. Force on the arm has bent the support as seen in the 1st photo.
My guess, and it is only a guess, is that a production batch of the stoves was made with the wrong alloy used for that support bracket. It was some soft alloy rather than a hard one like 6Al4V. Strong enough for a small pot with .5 L of water, but not for something heavier.

The third photo is a bit different. It shows the support bracket cracked at the bend, inside the red box. This suggests that a good alloy was used here, but the bend was done cold rather than hot. I have bent bits of 6Al4V alloy cold and had exactly the same effect. A production fault.

My impression is that the current production of BRS3000-T stoves has sorted out these problems. None of the ones I have bought for the V7 stove show any problems. Here’s hoping?

HTH
Cheers

The first time I used my Snow Peak Litemax stove the arms turned red. I was really afraid they would melt. They never did and I got used to it.

Concerns from the internet:

We appreciate the sturdiness of the pot stabilizers. Once snapped into place, they form a platform more rigid than some of the more expensive stoves. While we wouldn’t want to make a habit of it, the BRS was plenty stable under our 1.7-quart test kettle, even when it was holding a liter of water. We have read several reviews on the internet that mention the stove arms melting and deforming under load once they’re hot. If this happens during use, it could cause a boiling water disaster and ruin your meal. Our reviewers did not experience this while testing the stove, but complaints of this kind seem too widespread to discount.

https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/camping-and-hiking/backpacking-stove/brs-3000t

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Long time ago, based on what I had read on the internet, I got worried that the pot supports on BRS-3000 can  melt. I bent them so that they were aligned with the flames, what prevented major part of the supports from getting that hot. However, the folded stove became much less packable. I started using another BRS stove I had because of that, and it worked without any issues.  So I straightened the supports on the first one again, and it survived it well.

In the end, I don’t thing that the “melting” of the pot supports is a real issue, at least with small pots which are good fit for this kind of stove. If I want to boil more water in a large pot, I bring another stove, just because of the stability needed for safety.

Bending and straightening the pot supports without breaking them show that the material is very pliable. I think it’s plain (CP) titanium, or some cheap alloy that’s even softer. Definitely not the 6Al4V, that’s completely different beast.

Bending and straightening the pot supports without breaking them show that the material is very pliable.

Jan – suspect that you are correct in that it is probably a CP grade titanium. If you look at the pot support arms, they are embossed to increase the cross-section area moment of inertia (stiffer). Additionally, the bracket that supports the pot support arms have tabs that are bent up 90 degrees. While they could form and then heat treat the part, I find that doubtful on a stove that sells for ~$16. My 2 cents.