Alright so this is my first post on backpackinglight, found it a few months back. I actually found it in a very timely matter as it helped me rethink my gear list for a 3 week mountaineering intro course in peru. Because I've found this new passion for mountaineering and Alpine pursuits I was wondering what were my options in terms of buying a shelter to withstand such conditions. I live on the East Coast and would most likely spend time in the Presidential Range of New Hampshire doing some ice climbing and general mountaineering stuff there. I would also like to make a trip out to the Canadian Rockies next summer. All this to say what would be a tent suitable to handle most or all of these different environments. Ideally under 3 lbs but I understand that could be pushing the boundaries of "stupid light" for my intended purposes. What do you guys think?
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Lightest Bomber Tent/Shelter Options?
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The Canadian Rockies are my background. The lightest bomber shelter for those conditions is probably a pyramid or mid. Have a gander at http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com. Recommend either the DuoMid or SoloMid XL for a solo shelter.
I will throw in the Golite Shangri-la 2. I have a 2009 model that has the old 1.7oz silnylon and it has done great in high winds (40mph+) and driving rain. I haven't used it in more than a dusting of snow but I have no doubt it would handle it fairly well.
As others have mentioned, the top-shelf mids are the obvious answer here. I would not put Golite in this category, their lack of cat cut on panel seams makes their shelters very loud in high winds. Even if you rig a Shangrila 2 so it won't blow away in a 40 mph storm, you'll have a hard time sleeping.
The problem with mids in alpine environs is their reliance on stakes. If you loose one anchor point the rest will probably zipper out in short order. For a lot of mountaineering you can tailor campsites such that this isn't an issue, but if you're gravitating more towards alpine climbing and might end up camped on snow ledges and little talus perches a wedge tent like the MH Direkt 2 is likely a better choice. Hilleberg still sets the standard for bomber, but blows past 3 pounds by a considerable margin. Unless you want to be able to camp in stupid-exposed places with impunity, the other options are probably better.
I agree that the Hilleberg choice would be the bomber one, but yes, more than three pounds, even the Soulo. If you're dead set on that weight I'd have a look at the Black Diamond Firstlight and, as the iconoclastic choice, a Stephenson 2R.
I have a TT Moment DW with the crossing pole.
I have run the crossing pole INSIDE the fly for much better support. This involves shortening the X-ing pole a bit and sewing double-sided Velcro inside the fly at the reinforcements for the outside X-ing pole straps.
You can do the same for the Scarp 1 or Scarp 2. See WINTER HIKING and my photos of how I did this on my Scarp 2. It's more involved than the Moment DW mod but very sturdy.
Both of these solo setups will handle a snow load well.
pound-for-pound they are tough to beat when it comes down to footprint size, usable sq/ft, setup ease and survivability. that being said, if you are base camping for more than a day or two and you are sharing a tent and the load, there's a lot to be said for packing in a bigger/heavier tent. also, if it is two to a tent, and you want to go with a small, lightweight tent, be sure you are really ok with how tight they are on the inside. even if you are planning to sleep head-to-to,you need to be prepared/ok with pretty-much being right up against the other person as a lot of these tents are 50" wide,or less. for many, the idea of having the smallest/lightest tent is better than the actual reality of existing/surviving in a small tent.
Yep. Have an Unna for stupid exposed trips. A mid for other times.
I use a RAB Summit Mountain as my bomber winter shelter. Single wall shelter made from Event fabric. Anchor points for multi day climbs. It's seen lots of snow and never a problem.
This tent might fit the bill, available in one and two person models. The one person is like a lighter Hilleberg Soulo, except longer and with two vestibules. The two person is like a lighter Allak or Staika. There will be some HD poles available for the two person version that will make it a 4 season shelter. Not as strong as a Hilleberg, but lighter and still pretty strong. Like the Soulo and Allak/Staika, it's fully free standing.
You can also use just two poles and stake the vestibules out if you like, which would make it "self-supporting".
There are also mesh and nylon interiors. You also have the option to add a snow/sod flaps.
Check for availability though.
Dave- that does look bomber (and pretty darn light)! My wife and I recently spent a terse evening in our MH Skyledge, we sustained gusts in the 50-60 mph range and while the tent would buckle, it held just fine. This definitely speaks to the crossed pole configuration spoke of in this thread. I'm afraid if we would have been in the Duomid, it may have got flattened?????
Mike
50 to 60 MPH? Did you actually test that with a wind speed measuring device?
I am not sure many tents would survive this short of a full on 4 season expedition tent.
Could be hyperbole. Even 20MPH can feel like a lot more if the tent's exposed.
no wind measuring device, except me outside trying desperately to secure guy lines when I say buckle, I mean really buckle- like holy sh!t buckle
I lived in Eastern Montana for 25 years, I know 50 mph winds- 20 mph is a nice gentle breeze there :)
It was a 50 mph wind and it almost collapsed his tent, but the 'stache didn't budge.
"It was a 50 mph wind and it almost collapsed his tent, but the 'stache didn't budge."
^ this! :)
Hey guys,
All the replies are very appreciated. The Direkt2 looks like avery nice tent but I was hoping for something a little more versatile. Because Im only starting to alpine climb/mountaineer I don't think I will need such a niche product just yet! Instead I was hoping for a tent that has the versatility to take me 4 season camping in some bad weather that I am still able to use for 3 season backpacking purposes when needed. The Big Sky Chinook 2 mentioned seems quite promising but after researching was not able to find much information on the tent. I was wondering what your opinions or experience has to say about this tent or suggestions of other tents in a similar class.
I would opt for a bivy in alpine conditions. The flexibility and speed it allows in your setup is convenient all the time, and potentially life-saving some of the time. Imagine trying to pitch a tent on a 30º snow-covered slope…
A bivy would give you your bombproof alpinist shelter, and frees you to get a comfortable 3-season tent for non-alpine trips and 3-season stuff.
I use Borah gear's eVent bivy and it's rock-solid, and warm.
"Imagine trying to pitch a tent on a 30º snow-covered slope…" better yet, imagine trying to bivy on a 30º snow covered slope. I'll take the proper tent every time. justthinking that something is better, doesn't make it true (these are not my pictures)



the whole idea of just throwing down your bivy and you're good to go doesn't track with many real world conditions. sure, there are times and places where a bivy is appropriate, but if you're starting out it might not be the best initial investment. also, i'm not going to say that a bivy is outmoded technology for alpine use ( i have an id full event overbag), but with the advent of relatively light, two man wedge tents, you can be sleeping in a tent for the same or less carried weight than a bomber alpine bivy.

do that inside a bivy or get changed , read a map , pee in a bottle…
Matthew the problem of course is that alpine tents (like the Direkt 2 and the BD versions) are not all that good for 3 season use , however a good 3 season tent is not going to work in harsh weather conditions.
Particularly the problem with those wedge tents (2 cross poles) is ventilation and ingress/egress when it rains.
Apart from suggesting 2 tents I can't think of a good solution.
hanging stove collection

now the thread will drift as to the merits/risks of cooking in your tent.
"As others have mentioned, the top-shelf mids are the obvious answer here. I would not put Golite in this category, their lack of cat cut on panel seams makes their shelters very loud in high winds. Even if you rig a Shangrila 2 so it won't blow away in a 40 mph storm, you'll have a hard time sleeping."
Which mids have cat' cut panels? I'm aware of MLD's offerings, but that's all that comes to mind. Do Black Diamond's mids have cat' cut panels? What about HMG? Last time I checked Oware uses straight seams. MSR?
Mids for mountaineering ?
You must be kidding…
Mids need a lot of precisely set anchoring points as well as a lot of real estate for the usable room they offer.
Show me one climber using one…
For a bomber, lightweight option for winter, why doesn't anyone ever consider the Tarptent SS1 fly only option:
Dual Doors, dual trekking poles, fully usable space given the end struts and dual apex, room for two plus gear, 20oz or about the same as a DuoMid, and $180.
What am I missing?
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