I hate setting up camp in the dark, so I usually arrive at camp and set up before sunset. Here in the drought-plagued southwest, you can hardly ever start a campfire, so I usually make dinner on my little stove, eat it, then–because I not only hate to set up camp in the dark, but I hate to walk around in the dark–I get into my sleeping bag. In the winter, that puts me in the tent shortly after 5. I read my kindle; I used to read paperbacks by flashlight, then discard them at some campground. I'm too scared to listen to my iPod at night–I want to hear the bear, mountain lions, etc. when they come for me! Of course, I could listen with just one earbud, but I prefer not to listen at all.
After a full day, I'm usually asleep by sevenish, and since I can't sleep twelve hours no matter how hard a day I've had, I'm awake a couple of hours before the sun's up. That's usually the time when I reflect and plan; it's the most relaxed part of the hiking day for me: I've got lots of time, no animals bothered me all night (they never do), I can think about how yesterday was and how today's gonna be.
You say you don't want to resort to a kindle? Why not? Do you think it dilutes the joys of being in the wilderness? More than an ultralight, large-carbon footprint backpack or tarp, a cell phone or a GPS (all tools I employ)? Looking at the stars is beautiful for a while, but then I get cold and turn in. Being tucked into a sleeping bag has an end-of-the-day finality and coziness that is very comforting, and reading is the perfect entertainment at such times–open-ended, private and quiet.

