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Christine
The threads on the MSR Pocket Rocket are aluminium. This is a soft metal and the tips of the thread easily wear off. Most other stoves use brass for the thread and this will last much longer.
Ken
In some parts of Europe the pierce type canisters are all you can get. In France, it is almost impossible to get threaded canisters (or threaded stoves). Do you think the whole of France would replace their stoves just to suit an American company?
If they are not given a choice what are they to do? Happened here with the pierce type canisters. Just curious. We'll see what the marketers try to tell us what we need here.
I presume Ken (Thompson) was suggesting that Coleman move to the technically superior CampingGaz threadless connection (which will not bother the French and mainland Europeans but a sudden stop would be inconvenient elsewhere).
However, if all new stoves moved to a SuperGnat style dual connector, then the threaded connector could fade away gently over a long time frame. It would also really require Coleman to allow other makers to manufacture (second source) CampingGaz CV connector style cans, so that canistter prices are kept down and the system could survive CampingGaz's demise: i.e. an "open" connector standard. Otherwise, no one would want to risk a proprietary connector against the threaded one.
I wonder if the Brunton stand has fully formed threads, and if so, could a stove with worn threads still connect safely to it?
@Stuart
Thanks for the explanation! This explains why I had repeated thread problems with the PocketRocket whereas the SnowPeak has not worn out despite extensive use. I would never buy or use a Pocket Rocket again and was really upset by their warranty policy.
Thanks HJ, you spent more of my money, found a once used GS-100 and picked up one of the ignitors, that should be nice in the garage when firing up stoves on the weekend.
Duane
Ken Thompson wrote: > Since Camping Gaz is now owned by the Jarden Corporation that also owns Coleman Why would it not be in their best interest to get everyone to use the same canister? They would sell a bunch of stoves in a short time on one side of the pond or another. Powermax and the pierce type canisters have already gone.
Ken,
The puncture type canisters are still around. They’re still sold in the US for example. In Eastern Europe and parts of the Middle East, puncture type canisters are the only type of canisters available.
It would be nice if Coleman could use its influence to get everyone on to Camping Gaz canisters — if lightweight stoves for CG canisters were available. However, don’t forget that Coleman has already introduced a canister superior to all other canisters: The PowerMax canister. And we saw how well that did (not) do.
Even though threaded canisters are the worst of the valved canisters used for backpacking, they are here to stay. :(
Thomas Kaltenbach wrote: > Thanks, Jim, for checking on it again — that comparison helps. I’m generally pretty happy with my GS-100 and it fits my pot fairly well, but I’m always looking for ways to improve and the new stoves always seem to look so cool!
Tom
Tom,
You really can’t go wrong with a GS-100. The first thing I do when I look at any new gas stove is compare it to a GS-100. I actually do like the new MicroRocket, but other than it being 14g lighter, I don’t think you gain much by switching to the MicroRocket.
Paul Mason wrote: > If I could only have one stove – it would we the OD 1R – it handles altitude and the cold better than the Raptor and probably better then the others in your list (yes I understand the physics of canister stoves)
Paul,
How does the OD-1R handle altitude better as compared to other stoves? What does that look like in practical terms?
> How does the OD-1R handle altitude better as compared to other stoves?
It's got so much more pizzaz and spin.
Yeah, spin, nothing else. A pressure regulator IS a valve, just like a needle valve.
Cheers
“Also the Gnat has very little burner “clearance” (the gap between the burner and the bottom of the pot), and as a a result I believe the Gnat is going to emit a lot of carbon monoxide. Absent further information, I would not cook inside a tent with a Gnat.”
Jim, you should not just make assumptions like this. The burner -> pot clearance is not the only, or even the major, factor for CO emmissions: the gas/air mixture is crucial.
Roger measured the CO reported here as a very respectable 10 to 20ppm.
Stuart Robb wrote: > “Also the Gnat has very little burner “clearance” (the gap between the burner and the bottom of the pot), and as a a result I believe the Gnat is going to emit a lot of carbon monoxide. Absent further information, I would not cook inside a tent with a Gnat.”
Jim, you should not just make assumptions like this. The burner -> pot clearance is not the only, or even the major, factor for CO emmissions: the gas/air mixture is crucial.
Stuart,
True the burner to pot clearance is not the only thing that determines CO emission, but I think it is very important. I based my remarks too on this review of the Optimus Crux which appears to have the same burner head. In particular, I was thinking about this particular remark: ” Indeed, the stove does emit a fair bit of CO at the factory clearance”. Since the burner heads appear to be similar and there is no perceptible change in flame type or clearance, I assumed the Gnat would have poor CO performance. I wasn’t aware of Roger’s later measurements of the Gnat as I wrote that.
However note that I said “Absent further information,” information that you have now provided. :)
Stuart Robb wrote: > Roger measured the CO reported here as a very respectable 10 to 20ppm.
I therefore withdraw any remarks about the possibility of the Gnat having poor CO performance.
Roger Caffin wrote: > > How does the OD-1R handle altitude better as compared to other stoves?
It’s got so much more pizzaz and spin.Yeah, spin, nothing else. A pressure regulator IS a valve, just like a needle valve.
Cheers
Well, yes, but I wanted to at least hear what Paul had to say. There’s always the possibility that I’ve missed something. :)
Hiking Jim,
Thanks for the fine reviews of the stoves.
I saw that you really liked the Snowpeak gigapower GS100.
I happen to own the Snowpeak Litemax.
Do you have an opinion of that stove, say, vs. the G100?
Thanks,
Marty Cooperman
Cleveland, Ohio
"Paul Mason wrote: > If I could only have one stove – it would we the OD 1R – it handles altitude and the cold better than the Raptor and probably better then the others in your list (yes I understand the physics of canister stoves)
Paul,
How does the OD-1R handle altitude better as compared to other stoves? What does that look like in practical terms?"
As I mentioned in my post I was using my experience with the two stoves. I didn't isolate the variables and test them separately.
?????????Have you done tests on the fuel efficiency of various canister stoves???????? I would be curious about that.
Thanks
PS – someone mentioned that in cold weather they try to put the canister in as hot water as they can. Another idea is to tape one of these to the side or beneath the canister – let it heat up some before igniting the stove. They are also good in case of an hypothermia emergency – place them under the arm pits and/or the inner thigh. Serra Trading post usually has them also.
http://www.rei.com/product/760936/grabber-hand-warmers-10-pairs
Hi, Marty,
While I have a lot of small upright canister stoves, the LiteMax is not one of them. I can’t really compare that stove to the GS-100.
> Have you done tests on the fuel efficiency of various canister stoves
Of course we have done such tests. The articles are available to members.
Cheers
Roger, you cautioned against screwing canisters onto the stove too tightly. What is your experience in winter when the rubber gasket gets harder from cold temps? Is it necessary to tighten the canister a bit more to ensure a good seal with the hard gasket?
Im using an MSR Windpro, and from memory, I think that has a large, flat gasket instead of an O-ring type seal.
Travis,
In cold, I screw down the canister snugly, but I don’t crank it down as hard as I can. I listen for any leaks while it’s running. It’s been fine so far.
Stuart Robb wrote: > The threads on the MSR Pocket Rocket are aluminium. This is a soft metal and the tips of the thread easily wear off. Most other stoves use brass for the thread and this will last much longer.
Stuart,
Thank you for that input. Just based on visual observation, it appears that you are correct that the PocketRocket’s threads are aluminum and the GS-100’s are brass.
The thing I find odd about this is that I hear of long distance hikers who just love their PocketRocket. I’m thinking of the famous PCT through hiker, “Billy Goat” (George Woodard). I believe he is one of the adherents of the PocketRocket. Billy Goat hikes a great deal, preferring to be out on the trail over being at home.
My question is why are some “heavy users” experiencing thread wear to the point of failure and some not? Can this be attributed to cooking style? Perhaps some are keeping cooking to a minimum whereas others are using their stove more frequently?
A tough question to give a definitive answer to, but I wonder if you (or anyone) can provide any insight.
Could it be that some users are more careful than others?
I once had managed a mechanic that could cross-thread/strip every fastener he touched, one who never damaged threads, and the rest were somewhere in between.
Could it be that some users are more careful than others?
Possibly. Or just bearing down too hard? I’m not sure.
I tend to try to get a good seal. Maybe I’d better lighten up on my screwing down the threads although I suspect this issue is more for a problem people who are on the trail day in and day out.
I talked to a contact that I have at MSR. He indicated that there are no significant changes to the threads of the MicroRocket as compared to a PocketRocket.
He said to be careful to:
a) Not over tighten the stove
and
b) Not to use canisters with damaged threads.
I guess it’s a good idea to save (and use!) those little caps that come with canisters (I always do).
I'm hesitant to suggest this but an experiment with Teflon tape may be in order. Teflon paste maybe as well.They would also take up some loss of threads as would some Loctite products but exposure to heat may produce a mess. And Triflow may be best of all in terms of reducing the friction. It is a near wonder product.
Teflon would make it more difficult to remove, but I suppose it would work. But you need to use the yellow tape, not the white.
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