2300W Foldable Gas Stove, Clip-on Stove Windshield

Brunton stove stand might be the way we wanna go Be back tomorrow. Cheers

https://backpackinglight.com/myog_winter_stove_summer_upright_stove_brunton_stnd/

HTH
Cheers

found one, making progress

male/female adaptor

Um … maybe I am stupid or something. I cannot see WHY that adapter exists.
If you can screw a stove connector onto the top nipple, surely you could screw it onto the canister nipple and eliminate the adapter? What am I missing?

Cheers

Because I will be using 100% propane I want to make the set-up totaly safe for others that might want to use the same fuel. If the canister tips over, liquid propane will shoot through the line and whooomph, big ball of fire. I’m wanting to put 2 control valves between the canister and stove. One to limit pressure at the canister and the other at the stove.

You and I can control what we do…..want to make sure we give info to others how to be safe.

Even though I’m a life time member, I can’t view the article you gave a link to. Site difficulties are a PITA.

maybe you need a male to male adapter to accomplish what you want

or a female to male with valve would be even better

Even though I’m a life time member, I can’t view the article you gave a link to. Site difficulties are a PITA.

I have just gone back a page or two and checked all the URLs. They seem to work for me.
Yes, Ryan and crew are making all sorts of changes to the web site right now. Could be a transient problem?

Cheers

No biggie :-)

I think I’ve finalized a way to create a safe kit. I’m going to use

the Soto Microregulator stove.

in conjuntion with the kit in the photo. The stove in the photo will be replaced with the Soto Microregulator. The butane canister will be replaced with a mini 100% propane canister. The Soto Microregulator stove is my safety valve. It will not operate until it is in freezing temperatures combined with the propane fuel. I’ll be able to use the clip-on windscreen featured in this thread.

soto microregulator stove

I am definitely interested in this experiment, and how well the micro-regulator works here. Possibilities!

I don’t understand why you are including the BRS-17A adapter though. Surely the stove stand should be able to attach to the canister directly?

Also, my Brunton stove stand has a different connector to the canister from your pic: mine is complete with a valve. Is yours a Brunton, or something else?

Cheers

I’ve been using a soto windmaster for years, works good

Could not find a brunton stove stand anywhere.

Jerry , I purchased a Soto today fromGossamer I got good feelings about this new set up

They are available, eg:
https://www.moontrail.com/brunton-stove-stand.php

However, I don’t think Brunton are selling them anymore. But then, I think they OEM’d them from Kovea anyhow.

Cheers

They are available, eg:
https://www.moontrail.com/brunton-stove-stand.php

Went to the site you linked to and it says out of stock:

HERETICAL SUGGESTION:

May I suggest the new Fire Maple Blade 2 remote canister stove. 

->It’s got titanium legs and a smaller, lighter braided fuel hose than MSR uses – by far.

->fuel vaporization tube for use with inverted canisters in cold(er) weather

->wide flame burner head to avoid hot spots

->** can use MSR type heavy foil wind screen

WEIGHTS: stove-> 4.9 oz. (5.3 oz. with mesh bag)  MSR wind screen-> 2 oz.

So you get the stability of a remote canister stove with its windscreen that can adjust to fit large pots/skillets and all this for the relatively low weight of 7.3 oz. Problem solved.

Eric,

He is going to use 100% propane, so he does not want to invert the canister.

He is going to use 100% propane, so he does not want to invert the canister.

If it is cold enough, he will. Mind you, I don’t want to be that cold!

Bother about Moontrail. That OOS note was not there earlier. And I can’t find ‘stove stand’ anywhere.

Sorry.

I had to order 2 stove stands from an International source….maybe I’ll get them in 3 weeks :(

The Soto stove I ordered from Gossamer has 4 pot support arms for maximun pot stability. They are also removable for more compact storage ability.

Propane canisters are now available

So far I have found 3 Stoves with built in regulators. If you know of others, please post them:

Jetboil MightyMo Backpacking Stove

SOTO WindMaster Stove w/Micro Regulator …

Pocket rocket deluxe

At -10 degreesF/-23C, using a small canister of 100% propane in the upright position, a remote stove without pre-heat tube, valve opened just enough to light the stove, stove is let heat up for 5 min with pot on it, windscreen/sheild 2/3 around the pot/stove, at that point can the canister of fuel be laid flat without causing a fireball at the stove?  Will it start to spit and sputter? The valve is barley open and has a fine adjustment control.

@Dan

Hard to say without seeing the stove.

At -23 C it WILL need some thermal feedback to provide enough energy at the input to the stove body for the liquid fuel to vaporise. The problem is that the burner head can be as hot as you like, but not much energy gets past the air intake holes. That’s why I was forced to add a heat shunt.

Could the radiation from the burner head help? Dunno – need to see the stove. Low probability.

Cheers

Let say one like this with a Brunton style stand fastened to a thin aluminised sheet of plywood. Adding a shunt like you use on yours would make it good for sure?

Maybe I should just leave the canister in the upright position with a conical support around the canister to make sure it doesn’t tip over.

The 100% propane canisters with lindal valve are available and will probably be around for a long time.  The odor of other fuels are not appealing, time to think about switching?

That’s why I was forced to add a heat shunt.

This is the shunt Roger is referring to:

@Dan

A heat shunt should make it work. My original one (which worked, photo above) was a narrow strip of copper. I tried brass of similar size but it was not conductive enough. My current heat shunts are 1 mm thick aluminium (good heat conductor) by 16.5 mm wide. They are fine too. I have also tried 0.83 mm thick Al and that worked OK.

Caution: if you put too much of the end of the aluminium heat sink into the flame, and especially if you make the aluminium thin, the tip might melt. You do NOT need a lot of the tip in the flame.

That ‘propane’ in those cans is not 100% propane. Propane boils around -42 C, but the stuff in those cans ‘boils’ around -34 C according to the MSDS. At a guess, that could be 30% butane, but that is a guess at this stage. The company is a leetle vague about the actual contents.

I have reservations about the life of the piezo sparker. There have been many reports of field failures. But they are not all that heavy, and they are convenient.

Cheers

Thank you for your help Roger. When I make a heat shunt I’ll use copper first, have some on hand. It will take the shape of a wire clip as seen in the photo.

Propane boils around -42 C, but the stuff in those cans ‘boils’ around -34 C according to the MSDS.

I think most of us will be happy with the stuff in the cans if it boils at -34C. I’ve had some interesting emails from the company that manufactures the canisters. They sure are questionable and vague for sure. They had been listing the the contents of the canister as having 10oz of propane instead of 4. After I notified them they made corrections. Earlier in this thread I listed it at 10 ounce also just because that is what was being listed by the company.

I made a stainless steel, 20 gram canister stabilizer for when I do some experimenting with a stove on top of the canister. Folds flat for storage.