Vacuum-Sealed Recycled Mylar Bags for Backpacking Food Packaging: Better than ZipLocs

Ken, yeah, it was a pretty good group for several years. Later!

Hand Sealer

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Handy-Mini-Electric-Plastic-Bag-Sealer-/222245317262

Great tip. Thanks! One question which no one has asked: what temperature setting on the clothes iron works best (seals without melting too much)?

Well, I would defer to Rosaleen as far as heat settings, but I use a high heat. Note that I usually just put the iron on as high as it will go. But, I also use a piece of paper to keep the iron clean (a dimpled piece of paper towel)…it makes a bit of a mess with the colored dyes and melted plastic, otherwise. Maybe with less insulation, like a thin paper strip across the top for labeling, you can use a lower heat. Also note that on occasion, I have “bumped” the package where extra air or food is. It results in a small hole, so this is something to avoid. A piece of cellophane tape can be used to close up any holes.

Anyway, my daughters food saver did real well. Since we folded the top (to avoid all the vacuum pressure, and to supply some thickness for the heating element) it worked pretty well. But, it can make a mess of the heating element. The packets for 1 person were smaller than say a packet of Lipton rice sides. We were not all that fussy about removing the air, though.

The technique is NOT about preserving/sterilizing foods, though this is a byproduct. It is about keeping pack volume down and maintaining dry/clean food for the hike. Dehydration will usually be enough to preserve foods. Fats and oils can still go rancid, so, while being edible, do not last as long as non-oily foods.

Weight is always reduced with dehydrated foods. Unless you are hiking in a desert, water weight can be significant. This can easily add a pound per day to your food bag iff you do not dehydrate or carry dehydrated foods.

What temperature is the iron set to?

Irons have thermostats to control the temperature. You can usually hear the thermostat click as you are using them.

If irons get too hot, they melt synthetic fabrics.

Cotton is usually 150-200º C

Polyester/Rayon/Silk is 110-150º C

Nylon is below 110º C

http://www.ebay.com/gds/Everything-You-Need-to-Know-About-Your-Irons-Settings-/10000000177940893/g.html

It’s not really the Mylar itself which is being melted and welded; it’s the polyethylene layer on the inside of the bag which does that. My guess would be somewhere in the 110-150 C range. A bit of release paper between the iron and the bag, as Rosaleen suggested, could be good.

Cheers

Dan
may I post this article on our troop’s website?
You need to ask Ryan for permission to copy from the BPL web site.
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Cheers

In an effort to minimize routine trash, does anyone have experience trying the same thing with the plastic liners from cereal boxes?  They seem tough as nails and certainly food grade… I’ll give it a go and let others know what I discover.

Bacteria won’t grow at the low moisture (water activity, actually) levels that are associated with dehydrated meals.  I would be MUCH more careful with moist items like trail mix and tuna.

Cereal liners are high density polyethylene, with some of the more flavorful cereals using an added layer of EVOH for aroma barrier.  While the relatively thick cereal liners have pretty good moisture barrier, they are not as good as a metallized film and often have significant leaks at the end seals.  They will be more puncture resistant then the metallized polypropylene pouches.  Not sure how important the light barrier is, unless you plan on leaving your dried food sitting on the counter, rather than in the cupboard.  Best to toss them into the freezer anyway to further slow oxidation/rancidity.

Tom

Correction: The bags and brand currently offered are the same as last year.