No. I never really use them individually. Up to a about 2012, Gossamer Gear used to offer a 3/4 length NightLite pad that was much more useful, more in a bit…
GG seems to have stumbled on the lucky coincidence of Pad Pockets, many years ago, though I will not attribute the initiator to Glen, there is no mention of who first thought of it. The Pad Pocket is simply two mesh pockets extending about 1/4 to 1/3 the width of the pad, sewn in on three sides and heavy elastic at the loose edge of the pockets. Due to all the stretchy parts, you can fit up to 5 layers of pad into them. This means a 10″ wide pad comes up to about 52″(allowing for folding gaps) making it a good place to keep your torso sleeping pad (with your empty pack doubling as some insulation under your feet and pillow-a stuff sack- not needing to be on your pad. When IN the pad keepers, it also supplies a fairly firm pack panel or frame to an otherwise frameless pack. You can drop any internal stays for less than 30pound loads. They also supply excellent cushions for odd shaped items. But they will also keep your back a bit warm…good and bad. You can do the same by sewing these pad pockets to your pack.
You must keep them sized correctly! Just some corners do not work all that well, because, they let the pad flex and move around. Not quite the best for pads or for carrying. They can also buckle if not firmly supported at about 4″. They go in first, then load the pack till the mesh and elastic are stretched out enough to just use them more normally. This “training” period depends on how tight you make the pockets…leave at least 3″ of stretch. These van be slipped in and out as needed and make a good “chair” when leaned against a tree. The “1/3 edge of heavy elastic” keeps them from buckling in the pockets, especially if the pack is also fairly well loaded. And, the “bumps” tend to lock together, making two pieces act as one in the pad pocket. I wore out a couple of these pads over about 10 years or so.
Assuming you use a NightLite, you mesh the bumps together on two larger pads, then cut them into 10″ widths with an electric knife. Then duct tape the seams…usually, both sides. You can make 2, 3, 4, and 5 layer pads. They hold up about 5 years or so. Some of the smaller packs do not accept the 5 layer pads, or, they build out enough to make the straps no longer fit. Meshed and taped, a 5 layer pad weighs about 9-10 oz. Since it doubles as a sleeping pad and a frame for the pack, it does double duty. It also folds neatly into your pad pockets, so it does not count against your pack volume…it is all external, saving about the volume of a Nalgene bottle. A very neat, and comfortable carry. Tarp, food, ditty bag and sleeping cloths/bag are pretty much all I carry IN the pack. Cooking gear/fuel goes in the left hand pocket and two 500ml water bottles/Steripen go in the right.
Before I purchased a GG pack, I used a cut & taped pad inside my packs to help stiffen them up. These just wrapped around the interior volume of the pack, allowing for the thickness of the pad as it wrapped in a “box”. This was VERY efficient at transferring weight to my hips and beat a standard “tube” fill by a lot. One way the old Trek pack worked very well. Before that, I had tried to tie on the pad behind me but this did not seem to work as well on the older military packs I used back then. The shoulder straps mounted too low to really let them sit against my back properly.