Ben (and everyone):
DON’T USE A MOULDER STRIP IN WARM WEATHER!!!
There’s no need to, and there is definitely risk of providing too much thermal feedback. In warm weather, we should all check the canister temperature with a bare finger and it shouldn’t be hot to the touch, at least not down where the liquid is. If it is, open up your windscreen a lot or shut it down till it cools off.
Are you wearing shorts? Are people sunbathing? No Moulder Strip.
Is there snow on the ground? Was it 0F last night? Do you have skis on? Consider a Moulder Strip.
Yes, mostly you are replacing the heat of vaporization of the fuel. Yes, that is a function of fuel usage (low, medium, or high stove output). But there are other mitigating factors. That canister is out in the cold. If the canister started to get much warmer than ambient, there will be more heat losses off its exterior. That’s why Bob and Gary sometimes see better results with smaller canisters: less surface area (plus a shorter MS length).
The DOT rating is for 50C = 122F. If you somehow got the liquid up to 50C, the WHOLE canister – top, sides and bottom – will 50C / 122F. There’s a lot of heat loss off of a 122F object on a 0F day. Drop trou at 0F and a few parts of your 98.6F anatomy will make it clear that there’s a lot of heat loss going on.
Looks at the close-up photo of the CMS – there’s a droplet of ice on the steel canister (above the liquid level). That tells me the liquid butane is at or below 32F. Otherwise the >32F liquid butane would boil into >32F vapor butane which would condense on the inside of the canister (preferentially on the coldest spots) until the whole exterior of the canister was at the temperature of the liquid butane.
You’re right that heat conduction down the MS is mostly a function of flame temperature, not flame setting. I’m not worried about excessive heat transfer (if used at or below freezing), but I’ve often observed an equilibrium be reached at the lower limits of a particular MS. The marginal MS can’t keep up with the evaporation rate of the butane, so the butane cools a few more degrees, the pressure drops, and the flame level decreases, even with the same valve position. And it putters along at the lower level till you run out of fuel.
Everything I said above is for isobutane or a butane/propane mix. If you are refilling canisters with n-butane, then a Moulder Strip or any of the other techniques Gary documented in his recent article may be helpful at 32F to 45F, maybe even 50F at high flame settings, especially with no windscreen. Like back in the day when we cursed at those 100% n-butane Bleut cartridges because (1) they crapped out below 45F and (2) once pierced, you couldn’t remove the stove head.

