Staking out Copper Spur UL2

[Hoosier T]

So I recall reading in a random tent thread where someone recommended adding guy-line to the four corners and using stakes a couple feet out from each corner. This is obviously different from the intended setup of just staking out each corner directly at the sewn-on loops. The context was that it will allow you to more easily adjust the tension to flatten out the edges of the floor. Would you guys stand by that recommendation? I would probably use Z-Line Dyneema 2mm with LineLoc 3’s and attach the LineLocs to the existing tie out loops by sewing on a Grosgrain loop to each LineLoc and using a Lark’s Head knot, just as Zpacks recommends. This will, of course add a tiny bit of weight over “stock” but do you find this setup improved enough for the added weight?

 

Thanks!

[James holden]

Just use a blakes hitch

you can make it variable from 0 to the full lenght of the cord

;)

[Hoosier T]

Thanks Eric. So I take it you would recommend following my plan to modify? Knots are another conversation, but the question is really whether to use stakes directly through the tie outs at the corners or use guyline to get the tie out further from the tent and allow tension adjustibility.

[Franco Darioli]

One possible advantage is to be able to stake down a corner or two where a stake by the pole would not go into the ground.

That would save you from finding another location if you like the one you have.

[JCH]

Agree with Franco 100%. Regardless of the implementation details, I think it imperative to design in some leeway on where then stake is placed.  Sometimes it only takes a move of an inch or two..sometimes a foot or more to find ground that will accept a stake.

Another thing to consider, which may or may not apply to the copper spur… a hiking companion has the fly creek platinum and finds it necessary to place the corner stakes farther away from the corners than the stock placement in order to achieve an optimal pitch on the fly.

[Andy F]

On my CS UL1, I’ve been happy with the factory floor stakeout. I did add guylines and tensioners to the vestibule stakeout points though. I also plan to remove those annoying and delicate tensioners BA used on the fly. One of mine broke on the last trip. I’ll just use knots.

[James holden]

In reply …

theres no real reason not to add the lines especially if you use a blakes hitch which u pre-tie, is easily adjustable and is infinately variable from 0 to full length (vs normal linelocjs which is half to ful length because of the loop)

;)

[Hoosier T]

So last night I mimicked Z Packs offering and sewed up some of these:

I used the Lark’s Head and attached them to the existing tie outs on the tent. Seems to be very sturdy. I have ordered some Lawson’s Glowire to use for this. I’m thinking I will like this setup enough to go ahead and do this for all the tie outs on the rain fly as well making all of them convenient and uniform. This way I’ll also be replacing all of the Big Agnes tensioners on the entire tent since they are definitely flimsy and I much more trust the Lineloc 3’s. Before I go out and put this into practice, anyone see any major concerns? This seems to be how a lot of cottage tents come anyways so I feel like it’s tried and tested. Which knot to use at the stake end doesn’t really seem to matter since it’s only there to create a loop for the stake and doesn’t need to be adjustable but I guess I’m open to hear what you think the best knot would be.

[bjc]

Here is how they attach linelocs at Yama Mountain:

http://www.yamamountaingear.com/tie-outs/

 

[Hoosier T]

Good find. I have all the grosgrain loops sewn on already but if they fail at any point I’ll probably adopt that method instead. For those of you using LineLoc 3’s, do you tie a knot on the “loose” end of the guyline after tensioning? I.E. the end that you pull on to add tension. I can see two separate purposes for the extra knot: 1: To ensure that the line can’t slip – 2: To keep it tidy so the pulled line isn’t just dangling below the LineLoc. How are you guys using this?

[Hoosier T]

I have illustrated what I think this should look like based on my above post. Let me know if you see any issues or areas of improvement. Sorry to ask so many questions, but I don’t want to get out and find out the hard way and I have only pitched my CS UL2 using the standard setup and am new to lineloc 3’s.

 

 

[James holden]

Ill put up a photo latter, im off to climb now

but its basically

• take a short piece of cord
• tie a fig 8 on a bight with around a 2 inch bight
• girth hitch this to the tie out
• now tie this to a longer (stake side) line with a blakes (remember its directional)
• Tie a stopper knot on the stake side line
• On the stake side line tie it back to itself with a blakes so that you have another loop for the stake

at this point you have the blakes at the tie out side that can travel the full length of the cord

and you have the stake side loop that can be varied to make a large loop to slip over rocks, sticks, etc … As added security you can clove hitch to your stakes with the loop and tighten em up

basically a double blakes line which is pretied and youll never need to retie ….

No line locs needed

;)

[Bryan Bihlmaier]

Eric,

Thank you for the description of how to use a Blake’s Hitch (or could use the “Adjustable Grip hitch also called the Adjustable Loop hitch) to attach a tie-out line to a tent of tarp corner, so that the length of adjustment is close to the length of the tie-out cord. Other methods I’ve seen and read about, usually used for guy lines instead of ground-level tie-outs, only allow length adjustment between half length and full length by forming an adjustable loop at one end of the cord.

Does anyone have experience with using an adjustable hitch (such as Blake’s or a Prussik) to tie just a complete loop through the tie-out webbing on a tarp or tent, as shown below? It would take two hands to adjust – one to hold the gripping knot and one to pull the loose end of the cord through it. I tried it in my house and it seems to still lock well when the loop is tensioned and not slip. It would allow a wider range of length adjustment than having the loop just in the end of the tue-out cord. I’m wondering how difficult it would be to tighten once the tent or tarp is set up, though.

(I got the idea while trying to replace the short, non-adjustable tie-out loops on my Bug Agnes Tiger Wall UL2, which were woefully inadequate stock).

I am also going to post this on the related thread:

https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/89539/

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