Rainier September climb layering advice

I have the same question about the down jackets. I’m also wondering if anyone has experience with the 1000 fill power version of the ghost whisperer (link). Looks like it uses 7D fabric which I don’t know how realistically durable that would be.

@blueflash Have you considered synthetic insulation like the Micro Puff for your jacket?

Have a good read though Andy Kirkpatricks site

https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com

Yes Sorry I should have included the link.
What are the expected conditions in September and what is the worst that could happen?
Need to plan for that.
https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/Disappointment-Cleaver-Routebrief-2017_FINAL.pdf

@moondog55 @simulacra Thanks for pointing me towards Andy Kirkpatrik’s blog. Completely changed the way I have been thinking about layering.

@moondog55 thanks for sharing the disappointment cleaver weather details. September can get nasty. I was there in Sep 2016 – we were stuck in a whiteout and sub-10 at Camp Muir.

I decided to go with simpler approach – Base Layer plus Rab Alpha Direct will be my climbing layer. Will break out the hard shell in extreme weather and puffy during breaks.

@valleyjo I looked through BPL forums and gear reviews on synthetic jackets and looks like Proton LT is the winner here. And for down, I’m intrigued by GW but I’m probably leaning towards FF EOS.

My own Go-To layer has been the Patagonia DAS parka, simply because of the sizing. I know that it will go over everything I might be wearing.
While I no longer climb I’ve been using the Macpac Pisa as my own softshell layer for a my ski touring and I’m always asking/hinting that Macpac should make a pullover version. That zip is totally useless and redundant when you are wearing a harness

Rainier in Sept. can be very icy…If too icy it might be impossible to self arrest. I live in the PNW, and have summitted many of the glaciated peaks here Including Rainier. Baker, Glacier Peak)., etc. If you are intentionally seeking an ice climb, then Sept is good (think Ice screws, fluency/skilled in French crampon techniques, etc). But if you want a snow slog  that is not technical, Sept isn’t the month., Just my two cents/opinion. Be safe, be well.

P.S. I know that the OP wasn’t asking for climbing advice,  sorry if I drifted off topic.

^ out of curiosity (have never done any “real” mountaineering) when would be a good time to climb Ranier for those less proficient?

I did the Wonderland Trail last year and Mt Ranier is calling my name :)

Back on topic, if you can find one- the Patagonia Nano Air Light (that’s a mouthful!) would be very tough to beat for moving insulation.

June/July would be better. Just as a data point: The Mountaineers club usually does their glacier climbs in June, July. Later in the season things get more sketchy in terms of hard ice, collapsed/eroded snow bridges, impassable bergshrunds, etc.etc.

Danke!

@moondog55 I decided to go with Andy Kirkpatrick’s advice and just got a Rab Alpha Direct on close out sale. DAS Parka looks terrific – would look for it when it comes on sale.

@pula58 – Super helpful advice. While the main goal is to summit, I’m also looking to build some ice climbing skills and hopefully that’s something which will happen during the Sep climb. It will definitely be tricky – I have read that it rains a lot in and around Rainier in Sep and at over 10K feet it translates into a ton of snow and wind. It is going to be an adventure one way or the other!

I have climb envy
Have fun and good luck with learning new skills

I’ve climbed Rainier a couple of times in early June, and would expect it to be a little cooler in September.  But I don’t think layering would change much.  I was comfortable with a Marino wool base layer, an R1 hoodie mid layer, and a light soft shell jacket while moving, though I seldom wore the R1.  I never have had a problem keeping warm walking uphill with a fairly heavy pack.  I also wore light pants (OR Ferrosi), and took a light pair of long Johns just in case.  I topped it all off with a DAS parka while stopped.  Depending on how warm you run, you could bump up tp a warmer parka, though I’ve read people use the DAS on Denali. And you’ll need to take a rain/wind layer, pants and jacket, Goretex preferred.  Have fun and good luck!

High winds make a light wind shell flap so hard you can’t hear. Just use your stiffer rain gear as wind wear. Glacier glasses or goggles good for wind too.

Late season be prepared to walk part way around the mountain to avoid open crevasses and hope the guides have it wanded or you may spend too much time route finding.

Traditionally people over insulate their legs to keep feet warm and because it is hard to adjust  lower layers roped up.

Avoid slippery clothes that make it hard to self arrest. Again, old school hard shells with textured surface work well.

@Summitfan Super helpful advise. Have a similar layering plan. Got the Goretex shell layers – I swear by my Alpha FL jacket which is a true workhorse. 2 quick questions. 1) What do you think about using Patagonia Capeline Thermal Wt instead of the Merino base layer. 2) If I have slightly warmer soft shell (Rab Alpha Direct), can I substitute the DAS Parka with a light wt / mid wt down puffy

@bivysack-com Will keep the wind in mind as I plan on my wind layering (Current plan is Houdini but may switch to Alpha FL based on your advise0). For the legs, my plan is to wear my Rab Vector pants over my Patagonia Capeline thermal bottoms. Hope that should be warm enough without being over insulated

Here’s my experience using Alpha direct.
It works very well over UL slippery base layers but when I tried to wear my Pataonia Cap4/Thermal weight under it the layers grabbed each other. It was an easy fix tho as I have an Uberlight Montane windshirt in the stash and I wear it as a between layer. After 20 years the windshirt is no longer windproof, merely moderately breeze resistant.
In another life I used to use a Moonstone VB shirt in the same manner when it was really cold and dank, Scotland in the 70’s

DK, I am not familiar with the Rab Alpha Direct, but on line it looks similar to the Arcteryx Gamma MX, which I own.  At least in June I wouldn’t take the Gamma MX, as it would be too warm.  My biggest concern while moving is sweat management.  I found a base layer with a thin soft shell like the OR Ferosi to be best, supplemented with the R1, or just the R1 and no jacket in colder conditions, depending on wind.   If you take the warmer soft shell then you’ll probably be ok with a puffy like the Feathered Friends EOS.  I’ve found that if I’m going to take extra weight, better to do it carrying a bigger puffy as I have more trouble staying warm while stationary than when moving.  As for the base layer, whatever you’re comfortable with, though thermal weight might be a bit warm.  I’d wear a mid weight base layer, either wool or synthetic.

DK – These laying recommendations would work well for your trip. Forn your consideration: http://maxneale.blogspot.com/2018/11/ultimate-alaska-backpacking-gear-list-part-one-clothing.html