Topic

Lightest invertible canister stove?

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 29 total)
PostedNov 5, 2017 at 9:16 pm

Hi there,

As I have to get a new one – what’s currently the lightest invertible canister stove?
When I last checked it was the combination of a FMS-118 with FMS-117t parts – the FMS-118 seems to be discounted as it is discontinued?

Thanks,
Christoph

PostedNov 5, 2017 at 9:35 pm

Is it for sale? I lost track of the many articles, I thought it’s heavier as well (for a good reason) but I’m unsure.

I just realized there is a FMS-117t2 which includes a preheater, however it is not made of copper but steel as it seems, resulting in +10g as opposed to the FMS118+FMS117t combination.

James Marco BPL Member
PostedNov 5, 2017 at 9:40 pm

Actually, the Caffin/FM-300t V1 was the lightest at around 85g.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedNov 5, 2017 at 10:39 pm

does that include the pump, tubing, and burner?  everything but the canister itself?  and the windscreen if any?

David Thomas BPL Member
PostedNov 5, 2017 at 10:44 pm

Why an inverted stove?

A BRS-3000T weighs 25 grams,
A Classic Moulder Strip weighs 19 grams,
A Velcro Strap weighs 3 grams.

So 47 grams (and less than $20) total, it’s more compact, and it works to at least -15F which is lower than an inverted stove will go (unless you create some feedback from the flame to the inverted canister).

Many inverted stoves are shorter and more stable and that’s definitely an advantage.  That might save the weight of a 5″ x 5″ piece of 3-ply door skin or waxed cardboard, but I bring one for winter use with an inverted or a canister stove.

Roger Caffin BPL Member
PostedNov 5, 2017 at 10:46 pm

85 or 88 g covers the entire stove, from flame back to the canister connector. Fully functional.
There is no pump: it’s a CANISTER stove!

For V3, which is the only one for sale now, included in the kit there is also a small 3-ply baseboard and 4 off 1.6 mm Ti wire micro-stakes for holding the stove down on soil – you get them but don’t have to take them. Wt ~20 g. The Ti wire stakes don’t work too well on soft snow for some reason, but might be OK on hard packed snow. A tool kit is also included.

Windscreen is not included and is extra wt. Wide choice there.

Cheers

JCH BPL Member
PostedNov 5, 2017 at 10:54 pm

What David said.  Cheap. Light. Simple.

Roger Caffin BPL Member
PostedNov 5, 2017 at 11:50 pm

Ah, OK.

Everything to the left of the red line is ‘the stove’, weighing ~88 g.

To the right we have the optional baseboard, 4 micro-stakes, mini-screwdriver and tied together with yellow string a jet spanner and jet pricker.

Cheers

 

Edward John M BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2017 at 12:16 am

I think you may have forgotten the most important bit of information for us poor pensioners

How much is the V3

$AUD and posted to OZ

$USD and posted internationally?

Edward John M BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2017 at 12:19 am

Here’s another though for summer use.

Will it work using cheap butane gas in summer with one of the cheap adapters?

James Marco BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2017 at 1:16 am

Yes, it will work all year. Even when things get pretty frosty, I simply bend the canister back under a larger windscreen. Roger, also mentioned he did this in one of his articles. Again, as always, BE CAREFUL!

Roger Caffin BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2017 at 1:26 am

How much is the V3
Contact me via roger@backpackinglight.com
I may be away walking for a few days: delays expected.

Will it work using cheap butane gas in summer with one of the cheap adapters?
The common adapter has a screw-thread output, but it does NOT have the undercut rim which is essential to my unit. See the straight side at the tip of the blue arrow. No undercut at all. Also, some of these adapters are a bit leaky as the ‘spider’ which holds the undercut is poorly made. Yes, mine is very iffy, and I would not use it.

Jan Rezac in Europe managed to do some tweaks to both the canister connector and the spigot coming out of the fly-spray cans which gave him a direct connection, but that’s a bit tricky. I don’t recommend it unless you want to do a LOT of experimenting first.

Cheers

PostedNov 6, 2017 at 4:11 pm

Hmmm using a feedback strip is interesting – I never thought about that.
I assume it could be dangerous though, depending on the exact setup.
But I guess it’s worth an experiment – after all I could just try adding a strip if the stove won’t work
in cold weather.

James Marco BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2017 at 4:49 pm

In the field one time I picked up a couple cheap-o butane canisters. (The store was all out of normal canisters.) While the adapter Roger supplies didn’t actually bind tight enough for a seal, I borrowed a piece of wire from an old fire grate and bent it to supply the necessary pressure. It didn’t leak till I emptied the container 5 days later, using it twice per day at around 40F. It worked fine, since the “O” ring seats against the top of the lindal valve. But it weighed almost as much as the stove…:-(

The strips work pretty well but are a lot fussier. Fortunatly, I had a few strips of various widths to test. When I got an unexpected cold night (around 22F) I used two light weight aluminum strips clamped with a hair tie. After first warming it by the fire, it worked fine on the JetBoil Sol I use, boiling two pots for breakfast. Each strip weighed about 6gm.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2017 at 4:55 pm

“Hmmm using a feedback strip is interesting – I never thought about that.”

you’re obviously a newbie

warning, don’t get sucked into this, it will waste all your time : )

search Moulder Strip and you will find many interesting threads with good info

“I assume it could be dangerous though, depending on the exact setup.”

Don’t use unless it’s cold, like below 30 or 40 F.

Touch the side of the canister towards the bottom where the butane is.  If it’s warm to the touch then turn the stove off and remove the Moulder strip

 

“The strips work pretty well but are a lot fussier.”

I recommend not going there : )

PostedNov 6, 2017 at 6:08 pm

Well it certainly saves a lot of weight and money, so I might just give it a try in case the stove is not working without.

Or experiment a bit when it’s colder outside.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2017 at 7:33 pm

search for threads that include “Moulder strip” for example https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/moulder-strip-directions/#comments

David Thomas BPL Member
PostedNov 7, 2017 at 6:56 am

Know the tricks to keep an upright canister going down to 20F: reflect IR from the flame, place the canister in liquid water, warm it with your Bic, or pee on it.

Or bring a Moulder Strip.

Below 20F, definitely bring a Moulder Strip.

If it’s cold enough to need it, it’s cold enough that the canister can’t get too hot.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedNov 7, 2017 at 4:36 pm

I had an idea

The top of the canister gets warm or even hot, but steel isn’t a very good conductor of heat so it doesn’t get down to the fuel very good.

If they made a canister out of aluminum, that would work a lot better in cold weather.  Plus it would weigh a little less.  This would be like a Moulder strip all the way around.  Or they could make it out of copper.

Downside – it would overheat if it wasn’t cold.  Users are idiots so would blow themselves up : )

PostedNov 7, 2017 at 5:50 pm

I’m taking a tangent from the thread, but there must be a point where a remote canister stove with a good 360° windscreen can save enough fuel to make up ~3 oz vs a canister top stove. Is it within the use of an 8 oz canister?

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 29 total)
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