Lightest Gore-Tex Pro Shell Jacket with Pit Zips?

I think you are asking for a lot, possibly too much. It would be helpful if you gave us an idea of the maximum weight you want in your rain jacket.

40d Shells are going to narrow your search down if your gonna look for the lightest.

Not sure but off the top of my head the arcteryx alpha fl, marmot speed light, black diamond sharp end are a couple. Maybe a goretex active layer like an outdoor research axiom?

I have no experience with off trail navigating thru brush so not sure if it’s better to get some heavy fabric.

http://www.gore-tex.com/products/men/outerwear/jackets/gore-tex-pro-products/

The 7mesh Revelation looks interesting. At 270 grams, a removable hood, and a lot of venting, it seems to hit many of your requirements.

But in regards to durability: are all 40d jackets created equally?

Would the Revelation really hold it’s own against Dead Bird’s N40p-X jackets?

I have a couple of Marmot Hyper Lite 3-layer goretex jackets that match your requirements other than being about 16 ounces. I like the hood and zipper arrangement on it, but I take lighter shells on my trips, and I see plenty of brush in coastal AK. I’ve gone through serious alders in jackets as light as the Marmot Essence and Zpacks Challenger. The thing that kills jackets here is salmonberry and devil’s club. No face fabric stops the spines on those plants.

Which part of Alaska? They do have different weather systems.

Let me sell you the OR Foray. It has bicep to hem venting, effectively non breathable GoreTex Paclite for extended cold rains (id rather sweat than have 40F rain wetting through,) a 50D face, and it’s 16oz.

If you’re really battling alder I would look to 70D+. I love vislon as well!

I am not set on GT Pro Shell1 or 40d, I just thought it might be relevant for this type of trip.  I used the 7.5oz Haglofs Ozo pullover with GT Paclite for my last Alaska trip in Brooks Range and it survived with most of the DWR worn off (especially the sleeves) but no holes or tears.  I am not sure what denier the fabric is but I am guessing 20d.  My Golite Reeds didn’t fair as well and had quite a few holes and small tears after the trip.

I would really like to be in the 10oz range, but think that is a pipe dream, 12-13oz would be my “realistic” number.

I have quite a few jackets that are under 10oz but they are all very spartan and none have pit zips.  I really like the fit of the Haglofs, the hood, cuffs, and drop tail are fantastic, but for wearing the shell moving for hours on end, I thought pit zips might help.  I generate a lot of heat when hiking hard and sweat a lot (even when not working that hard).

I do have a preference for Gore Tex, eVent, or Neo-Shell as my “proprietary” jackets have all delaminated, breathed poorly (even eVent breaths poorly – but worse than eVent or GT), or not been sufficiently waterproof.

My last trip was in Brooks Range and had lots of brush.  This trip will be in Wrangell St Elias and I will attempt to avoid as much brush as possible.

One non- GT Pro Shell option I have looked at online is the Mountain Equipment Firefox Shell – which is GT Active with 30d on the shoulders and arms (20d body), pit zips, etc. for 12.9oz.

Of course I could take the Haglofs again.  It did get me through my last trip and has served me well for quite a few years, just not normally wearing more than a couple of hours at a time.

You might consider the Montbell Storm Cruiser with Gore C-KNIT, 10.9 oz in large (listed as 10. oz on site) 20d and only $259. and of course really 10% less with the Montbell points discount. I ordered one on a recommendation from a previous post response. I am still waffling on keeping it or getting a different lighter shell, so I can’t report on its performance. My only complaint at first glance is that the brim is not as stiff as I would like. It appears to be a high-quality item.

Pants take many times the abuse that jackets do in bad brush. I regularly destroy pants with hardly a scuff on my jacket. Get sturdy rain pants and go with a light shell jacket.

have you considered just wearing a thermal pro fleece and perhaps a durable windshirt most of the time instead?

if youre active, you should stay mostly damp (not soaking wet) but warm except in the worst torrential sustained rain

as to rain jackets …. OR … their torsion flo full length pit zips are simply the best … as is their unlimited lifetime no questions asked warranty

;)

Looks like OR is no longer offering their HD jacket, which was on my list of contenders and meets most of the criteria here. And Marmot has stopped offering the light Super Micas.

I have looked at the MB Storm Cruiser and it looks promising.  Thank you for the feedback on the hood and actual weight.  How is the overall fit and length.   I often find myself between a medium and large.  How is the zipper?  It looks somewhat flimsy to me on the website but it may not be.

I will have a 100wt fleece with me but no thermal pro.  I do want a true hard shell for really bad conditions of we encounter them.

I like OR’s warranty (and have an old OR Zealot) but they don’t seem to have anything appealing at the moment.

For pants, I plan on wearing the MB Peak She’ll pants I wore in WRR this year and figure they will be toast after the trip.  There don’t seem to be many lightweight durable pants and features make price and weight go up quick on pants.  The DWR is likely to be toast (and the weak link) anyways no matter what pants I use.

This large is fine/perfect for winter, but feels a bit big for the summer and my wind jacket needs. I also often land between medium and large, 6-1, 170 with a long torso. I like the length, it covers my rear more than most jackets.  The large Super Mica was slim and perfect as a wind jacket, also of course more lightweight and sheer. I suppose I should order a medium to check it out. I do think I would feel very confident in very bad weather with this one. The zipper is small but easy to use and does not feel flimsy to me. Rain jacket porn attached.

Arcteryx Norvan meets a lot of your requirements. It’s 7.5oz, 3 layer, Gore-Tex, Good Hood, Vislon Zipper and has pit vents (not zips). Doesn’t have adjustable wrists and the 20D fabric is marginal for your usage.

Like Cameron above I’m 6’1″, bit lighter but broad shoulders. I have a Large in the Japanese version of the Montbell Torrent Flier Jacket (GTX PAclite). I found it to be ever so slightly larger than the US version in Medium. For summer / thee season use it is perfect, and I am fine for layering a fleece, Atom LT or SV synth parka, or thin to medium down hoodie underneath.

But one of the reasons I went with this shell is it is relatively cheap compared to the GTX Pro jackets here, while still giving me very very good rain protection (we just went through the Rain/Monsoon season here, and I had many days with very hard continuous rain).

I don’t think I need it, but if I do, I could even buy a larger size for deep winter to size over much larger down jackets – and still be doing better than some GTX Pro offerings here. In those cases though, the bigger parka would mostly go over my hard shell – hence I think I’m fine.

For me the brim is great, in fact it is one of my favourite hoods on a rain jacket (and that is compared to Rab and Arcteryx). Not sure it is different from Cameron’s.

Hope you find what you need.

Cameron – Thanks for the pics.

The Storm Chaser is definitely on the list.  The price is pretty good, even without the possibility of sales.

Dan – I have looked that the Norvan but am unsure about the cuffs as I have thin wrists, and the sizing, since it is a slim cut made for runners.  How is the fit?  Can you fit a light puffy underneath?

I am about 6′ and 170lbs

Apparently there is something to say for erring on the larger side:

It is generally to your advantage to size a hard shell so the girth is 2 – 3″ more than your insulation layer(s). The reason you want to do this has nothing to do with the potential insulation compression; down doesn’t significantly change its insulation value with light compression.

The reason is that when you are inactive, an optimally sized and closed internal air gap, between your insulation and your hard shell, provides about the same insulation value as an extra 1 lb 4 oz 200 weight fleece (.7 clo) or 1.6 oz of extra 800 fill down insulation.

Per Richard Nisley.

Does anyone have a comparison between GTX Pro Shell and GTX C-Knit?

I know Pro She’ll must be laminated to 40d (or up) face fabric, and c-knit is supposed to have a different inner 3rd layer.

https://sierradesigns.com/mens-elite-cagoule/

Breathes well, and is designed for use with chaps, too.

FWIW, I think it would be wise to not confuse current GoreTex Pro shell fabric with the older GoreTex Pro Shell shell fabric of 3-4 seasons ago, now known as just plain GoreTex in the Gore fabric lineup. Also not really sure on the need to oversize the shell to fit over a puffy. Most are sized off the shelf in consideration to fit over thin layers. Certainly could not hike it that system for very long without overheating even in pretty frigid temps. And if in camp, its more practical just to stay in the tent curled up in your bag. In fact, if you are carrying a sleeping bag you may even want to question bringing a puffy in 3-seasons depending on your fitness and propensity for long rest breaks.

Just to say that it’s now just called ‘Pro’ and not ‘Pro Shell’ anymore. Pro Shell doesn’t exist anymore and is not to be confused with the current offering called ‘Gore-tex’.

Rick – I would never hike in a puffy (especially with a shell overtop) as I would roast.  Now that you mention it, I don’t have to layer my hard shell over my puffy often, but occasionally in camp as I don’t cook or eat in my tent many places where I hike.

Rick/Woubier – I was aware of a change a few years ago – though I had the names reversed (I thought it went from Pro to Pro Shell) and did not know that the old “pro shell” is now plain GT.  Do you have any real world experience with C-Knit?

It would be so nice if Gore (and others) would release more data and/or use standardize testing to help people compare membranes.

Brad,

just to be clear: Pro Shell is not now plain GTX. It just doesn’t exist anymore.

Pro and the old Pro Shell uses a woven backer; plain GTX always a knit one, whether the classic tricot or the new C-knit.

I suspect all the WPB fabric name changes we see by all of the respective OEMs is just that and the technologies have actually NOT undergone any meaningful developments that translate into dramatic practical improvements in vapour transfer comfort. Mainly they have been tweaks to the face fabric, like adding stretch, or the next to skin layer to improve wicking and mitigate clammy feeling. And with DWR technologies hobbled by environmental concerns, the latest efforts have been to remove the face fabric entirely from the WPB.