Hiking around Mont Blanc

We just completed the TMB Aug 6-20 but via an all inclusive guided tour. We thought it was money well spent given we booked last minute and had no time for the daunting logistics of finding hotels and auberge during high season. Accommodation, transport and dining in that area of Europe is also not inexpensive either (think Aspen/Vail prices) and our guide worked pretty hard for our group. If you will be quite fit walkers, you might be able to wing it but better to call ahead to book every morning before you start out. Chances are you will be too knackered by the end of the day to risk not finding something suitable.

I have done the TMB as part of the GR5. We did not book anything. The Refuges have a great capacity to look after everyone. You do NOT need a guide for this extremely straight-forward walk. In towns head straight for the TIC and ask.

Booking a hotel at Chamonix or Les Houches for your arrival – that might be an idea. Too many tourists there.

Being able to speak a bit of Fench is nice, but I am willing to bet their English will be a whole lot better than your French. This is Tourist Land after all.

Just go, and enjoy.

Yes, no guide needed though the current official route and variations can differ due to recent landslips closures from the maps that have not been updated for many years. And weather can make even the easiest days a challenge, with the steep decents probably quite slippery. Our guide also said there was significant snow in the high passes thru mid July this year. We trekked clockwise, saving the 4 toughest days for last. Still, most segments will need a good 6-8hrs to complete.

Really comes down to how much you value your time and how much luxury you like. Its a Euro ski resort holiday, not a wilderness experience even at its most basic. With our tour, we just had to show up and walk with just small 20L daypack as our duffels carrying our other necessities was transferred daily to our next accommodation. I would also say accommodation is limited in the Swiss and Italy sections, especially if you want private room with ensuite toilet/showers. Given the quality of our rooms and food, it seemed like our tour company had negotiated some steep discounts off standard rates. Also, keep in mind everyone starts and finishes around the same times so its a bit of a madhouse at the start and end of the day if you are sharing facilities. Highly recommend taking the gondola from the Aiguille du midi to Pointe Helbronner. Expensive but worth it. Just plan on an early start or you will spend most of the day in a que.

Just one word of warning – Europeans don’t need it but overseas visitors do. Take adequate warm clothing and wind protection. Be prepared for snow in MID-SUMMER. Light gloves and over-gloves are sometimes nice to have.

This was indeed mid-summer, at the peak of the walking season. We were descending to the Refuge at the Col du Bonhomme, just out of Les Houches. We actually went across this Col twice, a week apart, and it was like this both times. Normally it should be all sunny …

Eh, I can’t resist. This is ‘Le Patron’ – the Guardian of the Refuge, preparing dinner. When I asked if i could take a photo of the kitchen, all the rest of the staff fled, leaving him to do the honours. He didn’t mind: it was HIS Refuge. (Actually, it belongs to the Club Alpin de France, but he is the Guardian.)

But it is wonderful country. Enjoy.

Cheers

Ha! I believe this is that refuge. That yurt is around the back.

You’re right. Different in sunny weather!

We wanted to walk that ridge on the second crossing, but the Patron advised against it. Deep snow covering and hiding the trail, and a full day of post-holing as well. Discretion won. So we went around.

Cheers

I think we are both in Roger’s camp, as we did the Camino on a wing and a prayer, and did just fine. It’s good to know about the snow…reminds me of biking up Mt Evans in Colorado in July where we hit snow at the summit. I understand the Patron can call ahead to the next place to reserve something for us.  Seeing that snow is one reason to not reserve ahead.  I know it’s like a hike for the masses, but it should be quite fun and a wonderful experience.  I may begin to ask more questions as time rolls closer to the trip.

I wear Brooks Cascadia trail runners now for backpacking and hiking and was thinking of getting something with more substance to it, such as Lowa’s low hikers.  Necessary? I also was just going to use nothing bigger than 40L pack. My Jam 2 may fill the bill….

Oh…how scary are the ladders???

You can see in my pic I am wearing NB Leadville v3. trail runners. They were perfect, but we had fine weather 9-11 days with only light rain on days 3 and 11, and we had very light packs. Rain gear, a fleece, water and the picnic lunch was all we carried. Even if you are not on a tour, I think there is luggage transport service available for accommodations with road access. That refuge above was one of the few we stopped at that only resupplies by helicopter however. If you are going in Sept. your chances of rain will increase I was told.

Never mind the other walkers – it is a really nice loop. A wing and a prayer will be fine as long as you have some gear for the weather. This is really alpine country. Be equipped.

Shoes – light joggers will be fine. You do NOT need to move to anything heavier! Silly idea imho.

The ladders – ah well. We did them in a howling storm, and they were cold and wet.

One alternative would have been to stay a day at Col de Balme, but the old couple running the place were … well-known nut cases. That was a many years ago, and they may have moved on by now. The other alternative would have been to take the valley route … boring. Yes, we did grip the rungs tightly, which was reasonable given how wet they were. But they are very well engineered and quite secure (and cold).

It was a good storm. We were OK, but the day had an amusing ending. We got to the Brevant teleferique station late in the afternoon, and wondered whether they were still running. After all, it would be much faster than walking down, despite the cost. There did not seem to be any tourists around – which was hardly surprising given the weather. Anyhow, the operator more or less grabbed us and stuffed us into a gondola. ‘But I have no ticket …’ He took no notice, yelled ‘go go go’ and shut the door, and pressed the Go button. OK, so we pay at the bottom? Nope. At the bottom there was no-one around. Some thought solved the problem: they KNOW the mountains, recognised us as walkers, and wanted us off the mountain! OK guys, thanks.

Cheers

Gotta love it, Roger.  Trail Angels!  I think we will just carry all of our gear..both of us practice UL/LW and we hope to be able to leave our luggage at the pre and post hike hotel.  This way hiking poles and travel wear can be taken.

I am liking the poncho concept. And if you know of any nut cases elsewhere along the route, don’t hold back.  We came across one on the Camino. It was sleeting up in the mountains, my friend was cold and bonking, so we stopped at this crazy guy’s albergue to get out of the weather and I filled her with hot tea and honey to get her going.  She wanted to sleep in the barn. I noticed animals walking all over the food in the kitchen counter, cows in the barn..not very clean. I lied to her and said a big storm is coming and we need to get into the valley! Off we went and found a nice warm place to stay and recover.

OK, Chalets des Mottets, after Col du Bonhomme in the anti-clockwise direction. A must-stay place.

A converted cow farm. You sleep in the old cow shed, which sounds suspect but was perfectly OK. Totally cleaned up and wholesome. The photo is of the dining room. The high point of this refuge was the dinner.There were about 12 of us at our table (several tables). The lady came out with a large pot of stew and dumped it on the table, went back and returned with a large pot of rice. Help yourself she said. We emptied both pots, so she came back and put more in them! OK, that was fine, but the killer was the jugs of fairly good red wine on the table: they too were refilled as needed. Oh, we ate!

Unlike the Refuge Elenas along the way: custom-built commercial operation meant for tourists, expensive and stingey with the food. No-one was happy. Should have stopped at the club refuge just before it – refuge Walter Bonnatti.

Cheers

I don’t mind cow barns, as long as no cow poop….dirty hay…you get the picture!  Plus the crazy guy was just plain nuts.

Thanks for all the info!  I may ask about a few more places as time rolls on.  Sounds so much like Spain. Plenty of food and wine!

Oh, the ‘cow shed’ had been transformed completely:

Very clean, no cows at all.

Cheers

Yes, it has been awhile but airline tickets have been purchased and my friend and I are leaving Sept 5-21 and going on a wing and a prayer. Luckily, we both don’t feel the need to hike every mile, so if refuges are closed, down the mountain we go and find another alternative. We were thinking of stowing our luggage somewhere in Chamonix, but I may not need to if I travel extremely light. More research is needed.

Any suggestions for a pack? I am thinking of getting something like 50L. I had a Jam2 but sold it because it became uncomfortable without a frame. My body is not as young as it once was. : )

Oh, and yes, we will be prepared for horrid weather.

Donna, I have not done the TMB, but have done the Haute Route which overlaps with TMB for a section. We did not pre-book (same time of year as you) and only got burned in one place and ended up in a 30 bed dorm.  After that we got into a routine where we had the guardian of the hut where we were staying call the hut we wanted 2 days ahead and make reservations.  We offered our phone, since that was an issue in a few of the huts.  Most everyone we hiked with including the TMB folks we met, used the Kev Reynolds book as a hiking guide and accommodation reference.

“I am thinking of getting something like 50L.”

If you’re staying in huts, then you aren’t carrying your own tent/tarp, sleeping pad, quilt/bag, stove/pots nor any food, other than what you bought that morning from the refuge shop.  So that leaves, what?  Layered clothes for the worst weather you’d keep hiking in (sounds like you have the time flexibility to hole up in a refuge for a predicted storm), small toiletries, an extra pair of socks and underwear, sun hat, shorts.  And your credit card and a few Euros. That’s easily done in 30 liters and 5 pounds (including pack).  Not hard to do it in 20 liters and 3 pounds.  At 3 pounds, the pack doesn’t need a frame and the only “hard” object – your water bottle – isn’t pointy and can be padded by clothing not being worn.  So the pack can be $7.85 and 9 ounces off of eBay (they claim 35 liters, but it seems more usable at 25 liters to me).  Sure, there are sil-nylon, 2.8 ounce options, and I did a 30-mile Grand Canyon trip in one, but that $8 one has nice organizer pockets for your mini wallet, sunscreen and hat.

Oops, exchange rate must have changed.  $9.22 now.  Or they’re selling out – muted colors are sold out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-light-35L-Pack-Style-Backpack-Stuff-Sack-for-Travel-Camping-Home-Use-D3D4-/162403859489?var=&hash=item25d0063c21:m:mc7f939SBST8aN5r8qTT-3A

There are other options, but I’ve ordered and used several of these and can vouch for it being fine for hut-to-hut use if you’re not bushwhacking (these great bargains straight out of China can be hit or miss on sizing and quality, IME, so I order one and use it before recommending it to others).  No padding (you can insert a gardening knee pad) and minimal straps, but that’s fine with a 3-5 pound base weight and only carrying lunch with you.

Clifford, I have an iPhone 7 and wondered how to use it there for calls.  Having a hut reserved the next day or two ahead is a good idea.

David, I still need to carry at least a non smelly clean set of clothes for the trip home, but I may end up leaving that with my friend in her luggage because she heads on to Dublin afterwards. I have to send my pack through regardless because of the poles, and will need a small bag to use on the planes. I do have a Deuter 26 pack that is lightweight. I need support for my back and shoulders now. That pack you linked is sweet but not sure how that will do for me.  I used the Jam2 on the Camino and also Iceland ( 11 lbs carried) and it was fine. Not anymore.

I just may forgo poles and buy a pair there and hand them off to some lucky soul after the hike.

“I just may forgo poles and buy a pair there and hand them off to some lucky soul after the hike.”

Maybe a European or a returning tourist could report on where to source cheap, useable poles near your route.  In the US, you could just hit a Walmart once off the plane, get a pair for $17-21, and leave them at the last trailhead with a “Free” sign on them.

I’ve always loved the idea of loaner gear for travelers.  I did work in Yakutat, Alaska (off the road system – everyone flies in) and the local rental-car company had a box marked, “Need it, take.  Have extra / can’t fly with it? – leave it.” containing fuel, bear spray, aerosol DEET, etc.  I appreciated that.  I’ve done it for our AirBnB guests and for BPLers who’ve passed through.

“I have to send my pack through regardless because of the poles, and will need a small bag to use on the planes.”

Suggestion: put your pack, unless it is super heavy-duty, in a cardboard box or a sacrificial duffle bag you don’t want to see again.  I’ve used sand-bag bags.  Or the heavy clear plastic the airlines **sometimes** have for you to use on strollers and sports gear.  Then, at least on your outbound, your pack is protected from baggage-handling equipment.  “a small bag on the plane” can be a $1 reusable shopping bag if you don’t mind looking like a bag lady.  What’s the joke about the difference between a homeless person and a backpacker?  Only the price of their gear.

Bagging packs for air travel – absolutely. Two kitchen rubbish bags from supermarket and a roll of 2″ packaging tape. Cardboard boxes are also good for framed packs.

Free trekking poles – can’t help there, but many ski resorts have a bin of left-over ski poles, usually singles as the other one was broken. We found a Leki Makalu UL Ti at a French railway station once.

Cheers

Yes, I have a duffelbag that I can use and it is pretty lightweight and folds into into nothing.  I have wrapped my pack with plastic at the airport where they heat it and it molds to the pack and that worked out well too.

David, no harm in looking like a bag lady. I have plenty of those darn things. I make them from left over fabric that I have on hand. I don’t need much, just some snacks, earbuds, a light jacket.

I’m excited about the trip. I will try to take pictures and report back. In the mean time…some planning.

Hi Donna

A word of caution for you. Many of the high Refuges are shut by the middle of September. They may or may not have an open ‘winter room’ you could use. The winter rooms may have mattresses but nothing else.

The hotels in the lowlands – those accessible to tourist cars, will mostly be open. Some of the more touristy places will be open year-round of course.

Can you read French? If so the FFRP Tour du Mont Blanc ref 028 is worth having. If not, there is a Cicerone guide book in English.

Cheers

Agree with Roger about some huts/refuges being closed in Sept. I’d start checking now by e-mail or phone to get closure dates if that info. is not available on their websites. The TMB is a great hike but in bad weather I’d hate to show up and find a refuge closed and nothing else available for miles.

in bad weather I’d hate to show up and find a refuge closed and nothing else available for miles.
Indeed!

Coming in to Refuge du Col du Bonhomme in JULY. Fortunately the Refuge was open: after mid-September it might not be.
(Okay – we had tents & gear, but only for summer use!)

Cheers