I didn’t share this when it happened, but think now is the time…
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Drakes Estero
by Casey Bowden
6 September 2015
Emily, my wife, would describe the man as “on the spectrum”, as in a functioning adult who doesn’t quite pickup the same clues as most when relating to other people. In this case the man was one of approximately 10 kayakers either standing or sitting around their vessels while watching wildlife from a sandy beach in Drakes Estero in Point Reyes National Seashore. I approached the group jogging, from the north, and had barely stopped before the man launched into his verbal assault.
“Do you realize the stress you caused the seals when you ran towards them? You forced them off the mudflats and into the water.”
This was not a reaction I was anticipating. Imagine a compass where I started at East, the seals are at North and I jogged directly to West, never coming closer than 100 yards to the lounging seals or running directly towards them. Did this action warrant such a response from this man? Yes, my actions did cause the seals to enter the water but something more extraordinary was afoot. The man, whose face was sunburnt despite wearing the ubiquitous REI sun hat and having white paste indicating zinc-oxide on his nose, did not ask the obvious question.
“Are you OK and why are you naked?”
Rewind to earlier in the day. My family and I are driving from the Berkeley Hills to Drakes Beach in Point Reyes National Seashore for the annual sand sculpture contest, which is held on Sunday during the Labor Day Weekend. During the 90-minute drive over, while we are listening to the audio book “A Hat Full of Sky” by Terry Pratchet, I am planning an adventure. So after arriving, getting the family settled, greeting our neighbors who we would be sculpting with, I tell my wife I’m going for a walk, down to the estero. My map, Point Reyes by Tom Harrison, does not show the distance but from the scale it appears to be about 1.5 miles. I leave at 11:30 am, wearing non-swimming shorts, cotton boxer shorts, a cotton tee-shirt, a hat and sunglasses. In my pocket is my iPhone and the Tom Harrison map; shoes, water and wallet are left with my family.
Beach walking can be hit or miss, with misses caused by soft sand, steep slopes, high wind or inclement weather. A few years back I was hiking along the Lost Coast and experienced all four of these at the same time. However, today was sunny and clear and the sand was flat and hard. As literally thousands of people disappeared behind me I remember thinking how unusual, and enjoyable it was, to be walking alone. Our family walks, hikes and backpacks quite a lot, but since my children are 4 and 7, I am seldom alone. I pick up the pace and soon find myself standing at the water’s edge, looking longingly at the sandy beach of Limantour Spit perhaps a quarter mile away across the entrance to Drakes Estero.
I HAVE to go in, just to scope things out. On the drive to the beach I decided backpacking from the Point Reyes Lighthouse to the Golden Gate Bridge would be a grand adventure, but two unknowns exist. First is crossing the estero here, and second is crossing the lagoon from Bolinas to Stinson Beach. Amy and Jim, amazing folk I know through a backpacking website, did most of the rest in trips in 2009 and 2010. But they spent several days walking around the entire perimeter Drakes Estero, why not swim?
All of my belongings are, I hope, safely above the high tide line, piled neatly in the sand close to where I judge the crossing to be the shortest. Tentatively I enter the water and am surprised to find it refreshing rather than cold. Quickly the water depth reaches just below my nipples. I tell myself I’ll turn around when I need to swim, but I’m able to keep walking, and it isn’t getting any deeper. But it’s not calm. I discover that the shallowest path is parallel to the standing waves, which are about 1 foot tall. Leaving the turbulence results in deeper water so I follow the waves. And then I’m half way across.
A cloudy blob exists on the flow chart at this point. Clearly I should have turned around but driven by the powerful force that caused man to walk out of Africa, I find myself swimming. Two people are on Limantour Spit, and I aim for them as they also appear to be at the closest landing point. If they were not there would I have gone? Now that the water is deeper it is calmer and I alternate between breaststroke and freestyle. Objectively, and almost as a disassociated observer, I think about panicking. To be clear, I don’t panic, but I think about it and what a terrible outcome would result if I did. It’s longer than I thought, but swims always are. A lifetime ago, in 1997, I raced in the Santa Cruz Triathlon which started with a 1-mile swim around the wharf, in a wetsuit, with emergency staff on kayaks. I haven’t really swum since and now I’m further north, naked and alone.
Finally I reach Limantour Spit. One of the two people approach, a woman, and we arrange ourselves such that we are both looking at where I came from. I tell her that my wife is going to kill me and she offers me a sweatshirt which I refuse since I need to get back, somehow. I’m not fatigued or cold, probably due to adrenaline, but know that I don’t want to go back the same way I came. “Would you mind waiting to make sure I get back across OK?” This is what I want to ask the lady, but don’t. What could she do? Hike 3 miles back to the Limantour Beach parking lot, which doesn’t have cellular phone reception, then drive 45 minutes to Drakes Beach to tell a ranger a naked man disappeared while swimming across the estero?
The flow chart is now clear, get back soon before anyone starts to worry and don’t go the way you came. Jog, swim, jog, swim is the plan. Break the long swim into two shorter swims, jogging along the shore as required to minimize swimming distances. I bid the woman farewell, and jog east. After only several minutes I stop, this is the place. Heading further east will only increase the length of my second swim. As far as I can, but not nearly as far as I would have liked, I wade until I need to swim. A strong and steady freestyle this time, no breaststroke as I need to get back. Quickly I tire. My cardio is good but I have a hiking and cycling body, not swimming muscles. Then something bites my toe, panic is avoided but I swallow some seawater. Seconds later I realize my foot has simply touched the mud, soon I am out of the water and jogging counter-clockwise around the estero, looking for my third and final crossing.
Rocks are now the dominant theme, the sand is gone and I am barefoot and rock hopping. Slow down, slow down; a cut foot or even a sprained ankle will not matter at this point due to all of the adrenaline flowing through me, but it might be game over if I slip and hit my head. Suddenly I notice two vultures not more than 8 feet to my right then I audibly gasp when I see why. They are feeding on what I think is an elephant seal, at least 12 feet long and perhaps 3 feet in diameter.
My mind wanders as I thread through the rocks. Concurrently I am: blown away by the scenery, really enjoying naked-barefoot running, horrified by the stupid situation I’ve put myself in, and thinking about how I’m going to write about it. I’m too old for this, making decisions which often kill teenage males. When I was that age, or a bit older, Emily and I hiked up Nevada and Vernal Falls in Yosemite. I crossed the guardrail and walked in the water until I was looking down the face of the falls. Emily was furious when I returned but I couldn’t understand why. Didn’t she see how carefully I moved, sliding my feet instead of walking, and never going in water deeper than my ankles? Now, with children of my own, I am horrified by my past transgression, yet here I am again.
Leaving the rocks and dead seal I head for the base of the cliff, and begin running in the soft, narrow band of sand that has accumulated directly at the base of the cliff. It seems safer, and faster, than rock hopping below and suddenly I am Colin Fletcher, exploring the Grand Canyon. Then I consider falling debris and realize I have ascended high enough that a fall to the rock below would be really bad. I backtrack and continue rock hopping at sea level until I find my third, and final crossing.
It turns out to be the easiest, and after wading a bit I swim for no more than 1 minute, probably less, before I can walk again. But I’m not done. With a better view of my situation I realize I’m at the East end of a mudflat island. I jog across to the West end, scaring the seals who I originally thought were birds, given the combination of their distance from me and my near-sighted eyes. I find the shortest distance to cross at the West end and have to swim almost immediately after wading out. This is my fourth swim and it seems almost as long as the first. But I know it’s the last and the water here is calm. I try to freestyle but quickly resort to the breaststroke. It seems the water is flowing into the estero, from my left to right, yet something seems to be pushing me the other way. With a tree as my guide I make it ashore.
Several minutes of jogging takes me to the kayakers and the “spectrum man”. Despite what I wrote above, I don’t remember exactly what he said, but my verbatim response was “This was clearly not a planned adventure!”, followed by a haymaker to his jaw which knocks him out cold. As I set off I hear the other kayakers cheering and a susurrus including, “He kind of is an asshole” and “He had it coming”. I’ve never hit anyone before in my life and attribute my action to my extraordinary, vulnerable situation. I’m thinking I may never see my family again, am naked, and have an exceptionally small penis due to the cold water; three strikes and he is out.
Leaving the man, and my imaginary fight club scenario, I am angry. Completing the fourth swim meant everything was going to be OK, I should be celebrating, but instead I’m allowing this man to upset me. My reaction to him, and indeed how we react to most everything in life is our choice. Others may influence my emotions but I, and I alone, control them. Now where are my clothes?
Shirt in one hand, map and phone in the other, I jog back and arrive about 2 hours after I left. The sand sculpture is done and lunch is being finished. No one is concerned. When asked how my walk was I mutter “fine” then resume my parental duties, which at this moment involves keeping the kids from getting sand into the food.