Topic

checking the integrity of & changing the O-ring on a SVEA 123R


Forum Posting

A Membership is required to post in the forums. Login or become a member to post in the member forums!

Home Forums Gear Forums Gear (General) checking the integrity of & changing the O-ring on a SVEA 123R

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #3727193
    Greg Pehrson
    BPL Member

    @gregpehrson

    Locale: playa del caballo blanco

    Hello! I just today picked up a SVEA 123R. The owner bought it when she was in high school in the 70s. I’ve read that fireballs can come from a bad O ring; my (perhaps ignorant) question is, how do I tell if the ring needs replacing? Should I just assume it does because it’s 50 years old? I don’t notice any cracks by looking–is there anything else I should be look for? Here is a picture. Thanks!

     

    #3727209
    Jon Fong
    BPL Member

    @jonfong

    Locale: FLAT CAT GEAR

    I would just replace them all.

    #3727213
    Ken Larson
    BPL Member

    @kenlarson

    Locale: Western Michigan

    You may want to ck the “rope wick” that extends into the fuel container also,  because if it is burn or singed  the stove will not work properly. Easy to replace once you have a replacement.

    #3727219
    Drowned Lemming
    BPL Member

    @lemming

    I would replace the fuel cap washer and the safety release ‘pip’.

    Search https://classiccampstoves.com/ for all the advice you are ever likely to need.

    #3727258
    Ken Larson
    BPL Member

    @kenlarson

    Locale: Western Michigan
    #3727778
    Greg Pehrson
    BPL Member

    @gregpehrson

    Locale: playa del caballo blanco

    Thanks, all, for your help!

    #3727779
    James Marco
    BPL Member

    @jamesdmarco

    Locale: Finger Lakes

    If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!

    #3727830
    David Thomas
    BPL Member

    @davidinkenai

    Locale: North Woods. Far North.

    eBay to the rescue!

    I was going to mention the little air pumps that make priming them easier.  It lets you pre-pressurize the tank first and then fill the priming ring just by opening the throttle (not dribbling from your fuel bottle or using an eye-dropper), and causes it to kick off a little sooner and to function better in really cold weather.

    But thought I’d check availability of them first.  $39 used ones and a classic NIB one for $99 on Etsy and eBay but also BRAND NEW aftermarket ones.  For $14 + $10 S&H.  With the fuel-tank adaptor cap (which the pump requires – it’s a replacement cap with a check valve).  So you get a brand new cap and gasket plus the air pump for easier starting.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/113782083977

    In the 1970s and 80s, I always brought the pump with me – it made it all easier and made for less spilled fuel.

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Forum Posting

A Membership is required to post in the forums. Login or become a member to post in the member forums!

Loading...