Like KT said, “Unless you are talking plastic ski boots ankle support is a myth.”
If you can flex your ankle enough to walk on a slope, to even take a normal step, you can flex it enough to injury it. An Alpine ski boot, a lower-leg cast, or being in full traction in a hospital bed does protect your ankle, but they prevent hiking.
Consider that over a month, you’ll walk hundreds of miles around town, in stores, around your yard, in playgrounds, doing yoga, carrying groceries, a child or two, a load of firewood, etc, in running shoes or less. Then, suddenly, when the scenery gets better, people think they need this imaginary “ankle support”. And while it’s their choice, here are a few common downsides:
- cost,
- total weight,
- hotter in the Summer,
- MUCH more prone to blisters in heavier, less accommodating shoes,
- weight on your swinging feet (worth 7 times that weight on your back),
- less nimble on your feet, and
- longer to dry, therefore more susceptible to athlete’s foot.
Sure, if there is snow, then you want taller boots or gaiters (gaiters are much lighter), and probably insulated boots. When using an axe or chainsaw, I go with heavier footwear, usually full-grain leather. On job sites, I’m required to wear steel-toed boots. But for 35 years, since Nike released their low-cut “Lava Dome” in1981, I’ve used low-cut hiking shoes for trail trips over 20 miles in a day. Under 20 miles/day, for me, and running shoes work fine. And for any mileage around town. But for high mileage on rough trails, I like a slightly stiffer sole – not for ankle protection, but so the bottom of my foot isn’t wrapped around so many rocks and roots in the trail hundreds of times. Pre-1981, I’d MYOG a running shoe into a low-cut hiker by slipping in some 1/8″ plywood under the insole, but now you can get very nice low-cut trail shoes right off the shelf. My first test of them is to grab the toe box and the heel and twist the shoe. I can twist a trail shoe 30-50 degrees. I can twist a running shoe 90-180 degrees.
Then I try on a pair and get on their ramp (only buy shoes at a real outdoor store that has a carpeted ramp sloped about 30 degrees for this test) and try to jam my toes into the front of the toe box, if my toes touch, the shoes are too short. Then I walk around the store A LOT, feeling for excessive (more than 1/4″) of heel lift. If so, it is too large for me. For some makes and models, you won’t past both tests – their concept of the human foot doesn’t agree with your reality. For me, Merrill uses a pattern that fits my feet. There will be a size in which my toes don’t touch, AND my heel doesn’t lift. But before trying more shoes of the SAME brand, I’d suggest trying all the DIFFERENT brands because there are often commonalities (good and bad) across the company’s entire line of shoes.
And then, when you find a shoe you like, stock up. Look for it, or a close relative, to show up on Sierra Trading Post, etc and get it for 40 to 50 cents on the dollar.