Brad, my testing is consistant at 70 degree starting temps. Stovebench testing has to have set parameters.
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Most efficient windscreen for remote canister stove
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Brad, my testing is consistant at 70 degree starting temps. Stovebench testing has to have set parameters.
Dan, yes, I’ve been clear on that from the beginning.
I like that modification Chris. I believe you mentioned that previously.
yeah, 2 g of fuel used isn’t useful without knowing temperature rise of the water.
Usually, when I heat water, it starts pretty cold. Maybe 40 F or something. If I had a target end temp it would be 195 F or so. And if I’m comparing two conditions, like with and without windscreen, I’ll normalize with the actual temperature difference. If my target was a 155 F temperature rise, but I only did 150 F on a particular test, I’ll multiply the measured fuel used by 155 / 150 and use that for comparison.
A simple way of looking at it is that you need ~5 grams of fuel to raise 2 cups of water from 70F to 212F so that is about 5 grams to raise the temperature by ~150 F or 30 F per gram of fuel. So for every 30F lower than 70 F (water at 40 F) you need to use 1 gram more fuel.
Stove Efficiency is simply the Energy required to boil water/Energy available. Once you know the Efficiency, you can calculate fuel consumption based upon water volume, water temperature etc.
Energy required to boil water Mw*cp*ΔT
Mw=Mass (g)
Cp= Specific Heat Capacity (4.186 J/gC)
ΔT =difference in temperature (C)
Energy Available (Isobutane) Specific Energy*Mass
Energy Density (isobutane) – (45208.8 J/g)
Mg = Mass of gas (g)
Efficiency = (Mw*cp*ΔT)/(Specific Energy*Mg)
A stove boiling 2 cups (473 ml) of 70 F water to 209 F using 4.9 grams of fuel has an efficiency of 70%.
Now what happens if you are boiling 500ml of 45 F water at 10,000 feet, how much fuel is required?
The boiling point of water at 10,000 feet is 194 F (or 90 C) with a starting point of 45 F (7.2 C)
0.74=(500g*(4.186 J/gC)*(90C-7.2C))/(( 45208.8 J/g)*(Mg))
0.74=(473*4.186*82.8)/(45.2088*Mg)
Solving for Mg = 5.5 g of fuel
My 2 cents
I was told there would be no math…

Reviving an old thread here. I recently did some experiments with the Kovea Spider and the Fire Maple Petrel G2 mug (750 ml). With Fire Maple adding slots to these Petrel Series, it has opened up a lot of possibilities. As I have stated in the past, I am a big believer in HX mug improving wind resistance. That and Remote Fueled stoves seemed to be under appreciated. Well, the Kovea coupled with the Petrel and a good windscreen yielded impressive results in high winds. I was able to boil 500 ml of 68 F water using less than 6 grams of fuel. So, looking at the OP, it’s not the windscreen, it’s the HX mug. Now, the Kovea Spider is a great stove, but heavy at 170 grams. The ideal light weight system may be swapping this stove out for Roger’s amazing V7 stove. My 2 cents.


<p style=”text-align: left;”>I just wanted to pop in and say thanks to BPL members for this thread and similar ones. I used concepts learned here for turning a 300 gallon livestock tank into a hot tub heated by an old 60,000btu CampChef double burner. I didn’t go as far as soldering a heat exchanger on, but I insulated the sides and lid, kept wind at bay and encouraged heat to spread out over the whole bottom. I bet I will save tons of fuel in the long run. Kicking myself for not weighing the fuel used to get it from 50 to 125 so I could figure the efficiency on this scale. Next time. Thanks again.</p>
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