Beading a rim in a Toaks 550UL mug

Bead Roller

Try looking for something like this locally.

You might contact Dan as he might be able to do it for you.

thanks Jon – an idea but postage to/from Australia is quite high now.  Maybe less than buying a roller though

and thanks Mike – I’ll start looking in catalogues for something cheaper – that one costs nearly $600 in my currency, as do many others.

if I can’t find a cheap way, I’ll just continue to use stainless steel bike spokes as supports in the shields to support the pot/mug/billy.

If you have some scrap Ti around (or a Ti rod stock), you could spot weld a feature to hold the mug where you want.  Just an idea.

This is probably not what you’re after, but I ended up using a tightly fitting ring of silicone as a bead to make my pot sit higher in a cone. Heavier than titanium tho 😏 and would likely crush a fosters beer can pot.

Thanks Meagan – I know the rings, I tried them for holding a handle-less pot for drinking. I haven’t  used them on the pot for supporting it while heating before – I’ve seen others trying it, but I thought the heat coming up the pot from the stove seemed too high for silicone. Thinking about it now, perhaps using a cone reduces that enough.  It certainly doesn’t when using a cylinder even on an alc stove.
I’m going to check temperatures later today to find out. thanks for the idea!

Hello Craig, I wondered about temperature issues too, so was looking at silicone grades used in engines …but found a cheap second hand sea to summit silicone bowl and cut it up as an experiment 🙂. Worked well, still working (metho stove).

Maybe wrap a wire around the pot and twist it together.

So, you’re making a  “bead” with the wire.

I believe that silicone is good to the 450-500 range.

Celsius, Kelvin, or regular?

Jerry – now that’s an interesting idea. I have some cheap Ti wire I got during our lockdowns and it was too soft for intended use – will try it.

I’ve tried the Kevlar and ceramic glass wick bands some use as substitutes, but they get pretty yuck after frequent use and are hard to clean.

mj h – we should be using Celsius the standard units. Aluminium melts at 660C and Ti at just over 1660C.

silicone’s burn point is around 450C and most high grade Si gaskets are rated to about 300C – so you work out what you want to take it to

GG use a silicone band around their fosters or heiny beer can pot – remembering that these like most cans have a thin plastic lining inside also and that’s gonna melt above the liquid well before the outside Si band starts to degrade.

as long as there is water in the container then the temp on the pot wall cannot get much above 100C – but when heating a metal pot over an uncontrolled flame the temps of the pot wall above where the liquid is touching inside can go much hotter. Generally not above 450 as the tops of the Al cans don’t melt . How hot – dunno yet, going to try to measure it.
fwiw, I did destroy a GG silicone band around the upper middle of my mug once while boiling water in a cylinder screen (I left it on and continued to heat it for about 5 mins past boil – just to see). The temps inside the screen were clearly much higher than expected. But perhaps the cone with appropriately designed top vents won’t see this issue.

test results:

Softer titanium wire wound around the mug and twisted tight – works after a fashion. Which is to say, it holds the full mug in the screen/cone for a full boil (650 Toaks for 500ml boil no issue), but is a bit crude in appearance and catches on stuff.  And it’s a bit “clunky” and not asthetically pleasing to me. I’d rather just use a Ti rod or bike spoke skewered cross section in the cone to hold my pot (lately I’m making my own XBoil Like pot holders from Ti sheet).

Silicon rings – eg like those GG sell, or the same wrist bands they sell/give away for free for political or donation drives eg pride. I’ve destroyed 3 bands boiling water in cylinder type screens. Doesn’t work. They survive quite well when used with cones like trail designs (who invented the caldera).  The key is the venting design. Wanna know about this? Buy an authentic trail designs cone.

“Contra wise” it’s a mixed bag and mostly bad.

As it’s gonna cost a small fortune in this country to bead a real Toaks titanium UL mug,  I’m sticking with KISS: army issue billy and some bin diving recovered bicycle stainless steel spokes.

Spot-welding some tabs onto the pot is an interesting idea. I have a small, battery-powered spot welder intended for welding nickel strips to li-ion batteries, and it works well on thin titanium. Weld of two 0.2 titanium foils is stronger than the material itself. I don’t know whether it would weld the thin sheet to a thicker material equally well, but welding the contacts onto the batteries is exactly the same situation.

Wouldn’t a high school shop do it?

Thanks

OK, in looking at the OP, I am confused. You made a DIY Fissure system, but it is short enough that you can’t use the lip of the mug? Alternatively, couldn’t you use the handles as a pot stop? Am I missing something?

TD looks like they make a Fissure for the TOAKS 650 UL. It seems like that has enough height to store a windscreen. Maybe it’s faster and easier to modify or build a new windscreen rather than add stuff to the mug. It might be worth looking into. My 2 cents.

Yes. I’m slightly confused too Jon

Craig. A Flissure (split cone) is meant to cover the full pot height and support the pot by it’s rim, and fit nested in the pot when split. That’s the whole point of splitting the cone.

The beading/silicone band/wire solution is for a single piece partial height cone which should pack inside the pot ok.

A split cone of a height in between the above 2 examples is a non optimal fudge that is the worst of both worlds – the complexity/weight of a split cone, but doesn’t solve the issue it was designed for.

I would suggest either you remake a ‘flissure’ rejigging the height figures to make it as originally intended, or you make a single piece partial cone, and find a decent quality silicone band (and maybe have a look at increasing your upper vent holes area).

If you haven’t seen this thread on our UK forum, here is a photo of a 550 split cone that is correct height:

https://www.trek-lite.com/index.php?threads/making-a-cone-using-captain-paranoias-cone-potstand-tool-on-zenstoves-net-busting-the-myth.1772/post-261879

Another option if you want to avoid silicone band/wire/beading (whether with standard single partial cone or non optimal Flissure) is just to use a potstand.

Easy enough to make something like this:
https://speedsterstoves.co.uk/pot-rests.html