Any ideas how to fix this tarp?

Sorry, I don’t quite understand. A diamond pitch should never give you a pocket in the center. It runs diagonal from a pole/tree down to a stake. Each side corner is also staked down. It looks like this:

There should never be a chance for a pocket. If so, that means the outside edges are smaller than the tarp body… I have had this happen with stretched tarps, since I often place a stick in the center for a bit head room, room for a cloths line.

I think I have figured out what is wrong – maybe.

The center seam. I think the fabric is cut in a curve and not cut square, IE a reverse cat cut, which makes no sense unless whoever was trimming the fabric wasn’t paying attention..

I measured an edge parallel with the center seam at exactly 10′

The middle seam measures 9′-11″ so if the cloth was cut perfectly square then it should work on the diagonal.

It is slightly better in one diagonal than the other but not by an appreciable amount.

I think If I resew the center seam into a slight cat cut, this should fix it on the diagonal – maybe.

Think I have figured it out. I stretched the tarp as tight as possible along the center seam with the two sides handing, and there seems to be about 1.5-2″ of reverse cat cut.

Troy, pulling it tight along the diagonal, with the sides just hanging, should always result in a straight ridge. regardless of how stretched, out of shape, it is. My tarp was badly stretched in the center (9×9, center was 9’2″.) Pulling the wings out pulled a curve in it, about the same as a cat-cut would. Diamond pitches usually result in a good sleeping area, rather tight to the ground, and, a large “beak” area that a fire can be put under or near. A good pitch for spring/fall.

Doesn’t work as you describe.

As I said above, I think when they trimmed/cut the fabric they did not do a good job.

No matter how tight you stretch everything on the diagonal, it will never tighten up in the center.

I think the fabric pieces were cut like this.

OK. Ignore positive or negative cat cuts. A cat cut will ALWAYS do that. In your picture, you show it inside out. It is designed never to be used in what I know of as a Diamond Pitch. But, there are several “other” definitions of a diamond pitch, it is a common name and not at all definitive. Google it. The only way it will work is as an A-Frame. Each end loop of the “cat curve” tied off to a support,or, one loop tied off and the other anchored to the ground. It is NOT a flat tarp. MANY tarps of the past 5-10 years were made this way intentionally.

You would be better off returning it, but, because you did some customizations, you cannot. It “can” be fixed. But, you have to remove the loops on the cat seam, straighten it (with a chalk line,) trim it off, open the hems, sew in a new flat seam and close the hems. Then add the loops back and seal the seam again. In my opinion, not worth it. Just buy a couple lengths of Silnylon and some loop material, and make a flat tarp. You are already doing about 1/3-1/2 the work to repair the old tarp, anyway.

I hate taking stuff apart. Especially after reinforcing someone’s bad job, only to realize I should have done more before before the reinforcements. Quite annoying. A new tarp can simply be two stitched panels (flat seam) and 1/2″ double hems all around. Then add loops as needed stitching to the hem.

I cant return it. Its been nearly a year. I got so mad when I figured out what was wrong I boxed it.

I have seam ripped the center seam and taken the two halves apart.

Will figure it out tomorrow.

Thanks for the input.

I don’t think the picture Troy posted shows a panel of a cat-cut tarp, inside out. A cat cut tarp will never have any panels that look like that, inside out or not, unless, as Troy said, it is a mistake at the cutting table. If any panel in Troys tarp looks like the picture, he has an absurdly flawed tarp, not a normal cat tarp.

Troy, given how badly made this tarp is, I assume the fabric is also crap. Hopefully it is waterproof and durable enough to salvage.

I’d suggest giving some thought to sharing the vendor who sold you that tarp. You could save others from the hassle and expense you went through. Others don’t have to lose their money, too.

Looking at Troy’s post history reveals the mfg.

Sorry Troy has to go through such nonsense.

The fabric is good to go, Camo sil.

It was only the way it was put together.

I would prefer not to throw anyone under the bus, as mistakes do happen, and they do manufacture nice gear from what I have been told.

And they did ask me to send it back.

The only reason I had it made is that I could not find anyone that made a 10×10 camo sil tarp.

If you do have something you want custom made, be very specific in what you want. Like specific to the AR degree.

Hey, you are right. Sorry Troy!

On closer inspection I found that the ends are not cut square so basically it was a sloppy job all teh way around.

That probably has more to do with my diagonal problem than anything but I still may slightly cat cut the 10′ ridgeline.

On one piece of fabric, the center length is two inches longer that the corner and that is just on that one end.

I, myself am AR when it comes to cutting ripstop and mark along a ripstop line, so its no wonder this thing wont work on a diagonal.

I guess I needed to include with my instructions to make sure it was perfectly square cut and perfectly square in general – LOL.

So now I will rip and resew this entire tarp that I paid $185 for. Oh well.

Please forgive the derail but I’m curious if it is ok to use the ripstop grid to cut and hem. I did this a couple years ago when my mom helped me see some stuff and I was very pleased with the results.

Is it safe to assume the ripstop grid is square?

I do.

Troy

Pending how your re-build goes, you might consider putting a shallow cat cut around the perimeter, rather than down the center.  Similar (although not quite as good) effect for an A-pitch, but won’t mess w/ a diamond pitch the way a cat cut center seam will.

Matthew

I’ve found following the grid can be tricky on uncoated fabric, as it may shift on the bias.  A coating stabilizes it.  As long as you actually have the weave straight/square, the grid is accurate.

Thanks