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The Southern Sierra High Route – A Guide (a southern extension of the Sierra High Route to Mt. Whitney and beyond)
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Jan 8, 2015 at 6:30 am #1324351
Southern Sierra High Route – A Guide
http://www.adventurealan.com/SoSHR/
(a southern extension of the Sierra High Route to Mt. Whitney and beyond)
by Alan Dixon and Don WilsonRoute description, full mapset, and other materials freely available.
First light approach to climb the Mountaineer’s Route on Mt Whitney. On this trip we summited with full packs. But rather than exiting at the traditional Whitney Portal we traversed the Whitney Crest and continued south to exit the high peaks near the shoulder of Mt. Langley 14,026' (4,275 m), the southernmost 14er in the Sierras.Overview of the SoSHR, Southern Sierra High Route
“It’s always confused us that the Sierra High Route neglects the highest and grandest section of the High Sierra, including Mt. Whitney the highest peak in the lower 48 and the traditional finishing point of the JMT.”
When climber Steve Roper conceived of the Sierra High Route (SHR) almost 40 years ago, it was a visionary concept—encouraging backpackers (not just hardcore climbers) to get off of crowded trails and follow higher and cleaner lines in the Sierras. With a goal of “loosely following the John Muir Trail (JMT) but frequently going off trail, higher and closer to the Sierra Crest when reasonably possible.” It challenged backcountry travelers with class 2 and 3 passes, and difficult navigation over tough terrain—but with high rewards of beauty and solitude for doing so. We are both native Californians, and cut our backcountry teeth on the SHR and routes like it. The SHR has likewise transformed many trail-plodders into high country mountaineers. We are all indebted to Steve Roper and the many backpackers and mountaineers before and after him that contributed to the SHR.
But the southern terminus of Roper’s SHR is well north of most of the highest and finest crest of the Southern Sierras and Mt. Whitney. This year we decided to see if we could put a line together that extended the SHR to the south, traversing near the crest to Mount Whitney and beyond. A good look at the maps revealed a beautiful line that weaves across the Sierra crest numerous times, maintaining the spirit of the SHR, and offers hiking as good or better than any portion of the SHR. Our Southern Sierra High Route (SoSHR) extends south from Upper Basin, where the SHR turns west and goes toward lower terrain. It traverses the highest part of the range, mixing travel on the JMT with many miles of superb off trail hiking.
The SoSHR is a route in keeping with the spirit of the original SHR, and a route we believe would be close to John Muir’s heart. It starts high in the Palisades, the most rugged sub-range in the Sierra, and offers a summit of Mt Sill 14,154' (4,314 m). According to R.J. Secor in his must-have book The High Sierra, “Mount Sill has the best summit view of any peak in the Sierra.” The route also includes an ascent of the Mountaineer’s Route up Mt. Whitney 14,505' (4,421 m) and a traverse across its summit, before continuing on to exit the high peaks near the shoulder of Mt. Langley 14,026' (4,275 m), the southernmost 14er in the Sierras.
Compared to the the JMT from LeConte Canyon to Whitney Portal, the SoSHR is much higher, crossing the Sierra crest 7 times versus the JMT’s single crossing of the divide near Mt. Whitney. In addition, the SoSHR is more remote, with significant travel off trail, and travel on lesser used unmaintained and decommissioned trails. The landscape is more spectacular, the hiking is more challenging, and the solitude intensifies your experience.
BASIC STATS: SoSHR vs. JMT from LeConte Canyon to Whitney Portal
From LeConte Canyon to the southern terminus, the SoSHR stays closer to the crest and significantly higher than the JMT. The SoSHR can be done as an elegant route in its own right—about 100 miles of hiking from end to end. Or it can be appended to the SHR to create a route paralleling the best of the Sierra – a spectacular ~270 mile route stretching from Twin Lakes in the north to Cottonwood Lakes in the south.Jan 8, 2015 at 8:32 am #2162616Alan,
Thanks for posting this. As usual your guides set a high water mark for quality of photos, documentation and narrative and would not be out of place in a print guidebook. I saw this on your blog a week or two ago, thought it was awesome, and promptly e-mailed it to a bunch of friends. I think most people who have done parts or all of the SHR have contemplated ways to extend it further south; your route is the best I've seen. This is definitely going in to my queue of trip ideas.
Jan 8, 2015 at 10:10 am #2162661Awesome
Jan 8, 2015 at 11:16 am #2162690Thank you!
Jan 8, 2015 at 2:27 pm #2162735Thank you for your route description, maps and beautiful photos. I have enjoyed reading your blog posts (and watching some of your YouTube vids) and I also remember reading the entire report when I first saw it a few weeks ago. I am looking forward to incorporating some of your route into a long trip this summer. Thanks again!
Jan 8, 2015 at 3:38 pm #2162756Excellent stuff. Thanks for sharing!
Jan 8, 2015 at 4:07 pm #2162767AnonymousInactiveTruly outstanding!
Jan 8, 2015 at 4:54 pm #2162783Wow, that is something indeed. Might have to add a trip to California to the list. Thanks!
Jan 8, 2015 at 5:02 pm #2162786I like the cross country from Bishop Pass to JMT. You could do a smaller loop.
I was eyeing South Lake/North Lake loop but that requires a 10 mile road walk or hitch hike.
Jan 9, 2015 at 2:55 pm #2163097Thanks one and all for your kind comments. -Alan
Jan 11, 2015 at 10:48 am #2163644Excellent route and excellent collection of information. THanks for all the effort!
Feb 5, 2015 at 3:41 pm #2171710Alan,
Thanks so much for your work here! I'm thinking about doing the SoSHR this summer, or at least something based on it. Do you have a GPX or KML file with the waypoints shown on the map set? I'd love to put this in Google Earth or CalTopo in order to play around with it and come up with variations.
Apr 6, 2015 at 11:10 am #2189603Thank for putting all this info together Alan.
We'll be doing the whole SoSHR starting June 20 this year. Can't wait!
Oh, any idea how much (if any) extra mileage the Acrodectes Pass alternative would add?
May 6, 2015 at 12:18 pm #2197249I would imagine it is a similar mileage to a bit more. It will obviously take more time since getting over the ridge will be much slower than hiking on trail. -alan
May 6, 2015 at 12:22 pm #2197253Don and I considered whether to include GPS waypoints (or even .GPX track) but felt that was better left as an exercise for the traveler. Part of the allure of the route is the unknown. In the route description we have given sufficient beta to ensure that you don’t get way off route, but left enough information out to keep things fun and interesting. Also, we don’t want someone not familiar with alpine travel to blindly follow their GPS into areas where they do not have the skills to stay safe….
So part of the challenge and enjoyment of this trip is for you to figure out your own line. [And as you suggest, plan your own line off of variations to this route.]
All the best, -Alan
Aug 10, 2015 at 3:59 pm #2220227A friendly update here for anyone attempting this option.
Alan writes, " We now believe the best option to cross to Baxter
Lakes is to head directly west from the south end of Stocking Lake, and ascend a
relatively low angle weak point in the ridge that heads west and north from the
summit of Acrodectes Peak. Once on the ridge, the route descends to the
unnamed lake that lies directly west of Acrodectes Peak. From that lake, continue
descending south to Baxter Lakes and the trail to Dollar Lake. This route over the
ridge is reportedly class 3, but holds less snow and has more stable terrain than
the north side of Grasshopper Pass."
Virginia and I attempted the Acrodectes High Route during our southbound thru-hike of the SHR-SoSHR last month, and after a very nasty scramble on steep, loose talus (even by Roper standards) we arrived at the base of the ridge running north from Acrodectes Peak and found it to be impassable. Alan states in his description that while he and Don scouted this section, neither crossed the ridge here. On a topo this looks very doable, but what the map doesn't show are the several hundred feet of contour lines that are stacked on one another. If there is a crossing here, it's far beyond the realm of class 3 and doesn't seem suited to a backpackers route.Map
Reality
As usual, the photos don't show the scale or true angle of the wall. The "low angle weak point" seen in the second photo, looks ok from a distance, but up close is a series of very exposed, crumbling vertical cracks. We spent the better part of a day on the approach and subsequent backtracking.
On another note, we just completed Dixon's high route through the Winds and had a lovely time!
Aug 12, 2015 at 9:18 pm #2220744Solid info. Thanks for posting!
Aug 13, 2015 at 6:03 am #2220778This image, take from the west ridge of Mt Baxter gives a good overview of the area
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pkby-QOKwi0/U45IjJi7oMI/AAAAAAAAJo8/jcuvCGzY-qo/s1600/P1450964.JPG
Found in this TR on Peaks For Freaks
http://peaksforfreaks.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/bago-buddy-peak-mt-baxter-acrodectes.html
Dave
Aug 13, 2015 at 9:28 am #2220807David,
Just back myself backpacking and climbing in the Northern Sierras for the last two weeks.Thanks for passing on this excellent beta for the Acrodectes area. And great that you ventured forth into this area. I believe that you might be the fist adventurous soles this year to go into the Woods Lake basin and take a serious peek at the ridge. Most others have simply stayed on the JMT and dropped into Woods Hole. Good on you!
> If there is a crossing here, it's far beyond the realm of class 3 and doesn't seem suited to a backpackers route.
That may well be consistent with the modern/current state of the ridge. After about 6 months of research and crowdsourcing, I can find no record or account of crossing over this ridge in Summer months for the last 30 years. (There is one account of skiing over it in the winter.) So I have no idea what Roper's "class 3 on its northern side (loose rock!)" assessment of is based on, except that it is possibly quite old. Guessing that since this area was closed to travel for so many years, that nobody has gone over it to re-assess the route for current conditions, which may be (are) considerably worst than the Roper's older reporting of class 3.
As you point out the North and East facing portions "Acrodectes ridge" are indeed full of nasty and loose talus. I expect much of this is unconsolidated talus that was until recently locked in glacial ice. This appears to be a fact of climate change and receding glaciers everywhere (Winds, Sierras, etc.). One needs to be especially careful on this newly exposed talus as it has not had time to settle, consolidate, interlock and become stable like older talus that has been out from under ice for much longer. Usually lots of glacial till on the rock or between the rocks is a tell-tale indicator that you are on this unstable talus.
It may well be that however skanky it looks, that Grasshopper Pass might still be the "best" way over. If I had a one takeover for our trip on the SoSHR it would be to attempt at least travel the lower 1/3 of Grasshopper Pass and see how it went. Possibly next summer.
If nobody finds a class 3 or easier way over the ridge this summer Don and I will likely amend the route description.
Oh, and glad that you enjoyed the Wind River High Route!
Aug 13, 2015 at 11:46 am #2220835Alan, simply outstanding. To say the detail in your guide is comprehensive is a gross understatement! Excellent photos too. Thank you for sharing this.
Feb 4, 2016 at 4:03 pm #3380220Alan,
Absolutely love the concept behind your SoSHR. A buddy and I did the SHR in 12.5 days last summer. Trip of a lifetime, but your feeling of lack of completeness to the SHR in the south definitely resonates with us. We toyed around with the idea of doing Skurka’s Kings Canyon High Basin Route, however it seems less convincing than the SoSHR for the same reason–fails to capitalize on the highest and grandest parts of the crest further south. Summiting Sill and Whitney in one trip sounds like a magical way to bookend the whole thing into a cohesive whole.
I’m trying to finish an itinerary now so that we can get permits before the last few get snatched up. Due to schedules, the only window we have available is the very last days of June (probably something like Jun 25-Jul 2). Which brings my first question, what extra gear would you bring to do the SoSHR at this time of year? I’m thinking micro-spikes aren’t a huge weight sacrifice for peace of mind, but the ice axe would be tougher. Obviously the answer will depend on current conditions, but any preliminary advice from your experience would be much appreciated (at 23 and 18, we’re both still neophytes).
Secondly, we would love to be able to do the Acrodectes-Baxter Lakes connect. I was wondering, have you had any further revelations regarding this variation since the quandaries presented last August? I see that the maps and route description are as yet unchanged: still indicating travel over the northwest ridge of Acrodectes. However, David Halterman’s TR assessment of it being unsuitable for a backpacker’s route and Dave Grey’s photo are just too convincing for me to be willing to try it. Have you heard any new info in regards to Grasshopper Pass/Baxter Col? I was able to find the TR from “bobskiing” you mentioned, but nothing else. As of right now, since our timeframe is too tight to risk having to turn back at Acrodectes, we’ll probably just resign ourselves to going through Woods Hole.
One final question: in late August I have a chance to do the WRHR. Trying to decide whether to operate on your guide or Skurka’s. I know Skurka has yet to release his official pay-for version, but I was wondering what your two cents are on his claim that only his version “maximizes the full potential” of the northeast corner of the range.
Best wishes,
Austin
Feb 9, 2016 at 8:55 am #3381046Sorry for the late reply. The recent Web transition at BPL deleted all my “fNotify me of follow-up replies via email” for previous posts including this one.
As of this point Acrodectes-Baxter Lakes connect is not recommended. Don and I are hoping to get up there this summer and find a solid route tho.
As to the WRHR. They are both great trips. Just different. Depends what you want to do. Andrew’s is longer, a bit harder and indeed takes in the most glaciated terrain in the North. E.g. the Dinwoody Galcier and has the option to summit Gannett Peak the WY high point. But to do that Andrew’s route skips Knifepoint Glacier, Indian Pass, Indian Basin and Titcomb Basin to do that. All are stellar, beautiful and highly desired areas in the Wind Rivers. And Don’s an my trip is designed so that mere mortals can complete it in a long-week, including transport logistics at both trail heads. Andrew’s would likely take longer.
Take you pick. You can’t go wrong ;-)
Hope this helps, -Alan
Jun 26, 2016 at 9:47 am #3410847Are there any updates to the Acrodectes variation to avoid Woods Hole ?
If anyone has done the SoSHR route recently, is there anything you can tell us.
We are planning to do the SoSHR in late July, 2016 (this summer).
we’ll be heading south on the route, and plan to do the Mt Sill side trip.
thanks
Jun 26, 2016 at 10:27 am #3410851Good luck on this Art. John V. going with you? Looks like I missed you by a year…I’m shooting for July 2017. Anxious to hear your experiences.
Jun 26, 2016 at 11:50 am #3410861Hey Craig, good to hear from you.
No John will not be going on this trip. off trail with a pack on is not his thing, plus he has too many races going on. There will be three of us : me, Joe a climbing friend of mine, and Jacob D. who you’ve met.
We won’t be doing this trip for speed. It will be an enjoyable 7-8 day high country cruise.
I’ll be sure to get you a post trip report.
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