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Pecos Wilderness Route help

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Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedJan 3, 2015 at 12:15 pm

I am going to see if anyone has any suggestions or critiques of my route in Pecos Wilderness. The date may be between the first of June and mid July (though probably sometime in June – I may look at other locations if it turns out to be July) and I probably won't know the exact week until 6 weeks or so before the trip. My loop idea is as follows (We will be flying into Albuquerque)

Start at the Santa Barbra Trailhead which is about 2 and a half hours away from Albuquerque. Take Trail 27 (which I can't find much information about) to Trail 36 – The Divide Trail, and follow the high ridge past Jicarita Peak and continue on that trail along the high ridge using Trail 36 – The Divide Trail, and Trail 251 – The Skyline Trail past Truchas Lake then out to Pecos Baldy and back past Truchas Lake and up over the ridge, past No Fish Lake, and down the West Fork of the Rio Santa Barbra on Trail 25 back to the Santa Barbra Trailhead.

I am thinking about camps at Serpent Lake (going down from the ridge to water and some tree cover to camp), Truchas Lake, and perhaps No Fish Lake on the back side of the there and back to Pecos Baldy.

Does anyone have good mileages for some of these trails? I am trying to keep it 10 miles per day or less with my wife doing her first trip out west. If anyone has any other suggestions for loops please let me know. I worry that it might be too much of the same thing (high ridge walk) but the one thing that we don't get here in the Southeast are expansive views and I loved above tree line walking I have done in Wind River Range, The Sierras, and Colorado.

Luke Schmidt BPL Member
PostedJan 3, 2015 at 1:51 pm

As a rule of thumb I try to spend my first night no higher then 9000 ft. (and ideally a bit lower). That gives me time to acclimatize. The trouble with approaching the Pecos Wilderness from the north side is that all the Tratlheads are at high elevation. You get into the high country fast but you better be ready for it.

Have you considered flying into Santa Fe? From the south side the approaches are a bit longer but you could camp at a lower elevation the first night and do a similar loop. I did a loop a few years back going up Jack's Creek to the Skyline Trail then following it along the ridgeline then back down to Jack's Creek.

Other then concerns about altitude it looks like a fine route to me. The Pecos is a nice place.

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedJan 3, 2015 at 6:02 pm

Thanks Luke. I have never had a problem with altitude in any of my previous trips (knock on wood) even camping at well over 10K most trips the first night. She has never hiked nor been at altitude though, with her previous hikes in the southeast topping out about 6500 ft.

I am trying to keep the daily mileage low and take it slow and take lots of breaks. We may stay a night near the trailhead (or even in Santa Fe) before the hike if we have time. I had looked at flying into Santa Fe, and it seemed quite a bit more expensive, but when I just checked again, it wasn't that much more than Albuquerque, just not as many choices for flights.

Has anyone stayed at Serpent Lake or No Fish Lake?

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedJan 11, 2015 at 7:07 pm

Does anyone have any information about Trail #27 running from the Santa Barbara Trailhead and intersecting Trail #36 (The Divide Trail) near Jacarita Peak? I am trying to map out my trip and would love to know how many miles this trail is. Part of this trail runs off my map, and mileage is hard to gauge on the map since its switch-backed and uphill.

It is starting to look like my trip will be the last week of May.

Luke Schmidt BPL Member
PostedJan 11, 2015 at 7:29 pm

I can't tell you anything about that trail, I'd just try caltopo, should be pretty close.
I've never done that area in May but it might be a bit early. You probably already know this but there will be more snow on north facing slopes. If the snow looks high you might consider the south side as an alternative. Its lower and south facing so I assume you could do more, again I haven't been there in May but that would be consistent with my experience hiking in Colorado in May.

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 8:19 am

Luke : thanks for the idea of caltopo. I never even knew that existed. My production at work today is now shot :)

Ken : I read Paul's trip reports and noticed they were from the same time of year I would be going and that was the reason I chose Pecos over a few other suggested destinations. He talks very highly about the area and that means something considering he lives in Boulder and has lots of great hiking that is a closer drive than Pecos.

Luke Schmidt BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 9:39 am

"Luke : thanks for the idea of caltopo. I never even knew that existed. My production at work today is now shot :)"

It gets worse… Check out "export" you can put the route on Google Earth, very fun.

Paul Magnanti BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 11:07 am

I love Northern New Mexico in general. The history, the blending of different cultures, the natural beauty and the fantastic food.

Plus 2011 was a HUGE snow year. A lot of the places in Coloardo were snowed in well into July. For a long weekend, a 5 hr drive is perfectly fine. Many people drive west to Utah and think nothing of it. Northern nre Mexico is closer.

I don't have my map handy, but the one in the trip report should work well and, iirc, has the mileage.

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 1:55 pm

Paul,

I had read your trip reports back when I decided to do an early season trip to Pecos, bought the map and when I set down over the Christmas holidays to map out a route had no idea the route I picked was almost identical to the route you did. I was just looking for as much above treeline hiking as possible. I am planning to do a day trip ~10 miles down from Truchas lake to the summit of East Pecos Baldy and then back to Truchas lake for a second night before we head back via the Rio Santa Barbra trial.

I have a couple of questions:

I assume that the ridges are all dry and we need to tank up with water every morning. This doesn't look like the sierras or wind river range where you pass a lake every half hour.

It looks like we will have a couple of crossings of the Santa Barbra River. How were they in May? Is it a knee deep crossing or was it a raging river with all of the snow melt?

My mileage per day is as follows
day 1: 9.3 miles (but a ~3800ft climb)
Day 2: 10.8 miles
Day 3: 10.4 miles (there and back)
day 4: 12

This is my wife's first trip at elevation (previously never been above 6600ft) and her first out west. She has done most of her hiking with me in the Smokies (or similar) with days 10-12 miles per day and her big climb was 3700ft in 5.3 miles. Am I pushing her too hard on her first trip out west? We can skip the day trip to summit east Pecos baldy if needed (or summit Truchas peak instead).

Bear canister? I have two already and have used them in the sierras twice, Colorado, and wind river range one of the two times I was there. I know they are not required but it seems that hanging will not be easy as high as we will be (of course I wouldn't expect many bear that high early in the year either).

I am looking forward to seeing some bighorn sheep. I have never seen any (nor a mountain goat) before.

Thanks for all your help!

Paul Magnanti BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 6:24 pm

A few points:

*The stream crossing were very mellow both years IIRC.

*Being ridges, I would stock up at lakes and other water sources as appropriate.

*I did not use a bear canister nor did I bear bag.

*I do know not your wife or how much acclimatization you are doing before hand. Never hurts to spend a day at higher elevations and relax first. The Wild River Recreation Area is perhaps 1 hr from Taos and is considered some of the best car camping in New Mexico. The Rio Grand Gorge is quite the pretty place to have some easy hikes down to the confluence of the Red and Rio Grand rivers. Also you can see some Ute petroglyphs. Relax there a day..then go backpacking! I know *my* wife would enjoy an easier first day backpacking..but everyone is different. 3800' gain is indeed stiff esp at elevation however.

Enjoy the area..it is quite beautiful.

After, I suggest, depending on your taste, some great post-hike places to eat:

* The Ranchos Plaza Grille on San Francisco plaza. Eat some amazing chille releno while looking at the very old church made famous by George O' Keefe and Ansel Adams. Inexpensive food and delicious. The ambiance, of course, can't be beat.

*Prefer pub grub? Eskes Brewery is not far from the old Taos Plaza but is tucked in back down a side street and is a locals place from what I can tell. A New Mexico twist on the traditional brew pub. Sit on the patio, watch the New Mexico sunset and quaff a delicious brew. The green chili beer is their specialty, but a little goes a long way..still you have to try it!

*Need to get back and want something a bit quicker? The Guadalajara Grill (two locations in Taos, you go by it on the way to the Pecos. The new one is at the car wash…you'll know what I mean when you go by it..) is quick, simple and cafeteria style. But delicious. I loved their fish tacos.

My wife have spent a fair amount of time in northern New Mexico. Worth checking out. http://www.pmags.com/tag/new-mexico

Coming from Colorado, I tend to know "Taos side" better than the Santa Fe side.

J-L BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 7:25 pm

I had no problem hanging food at Truchas Lakes. Pecos Baldy Lake required a little hunting, but still not bad.

Enjoy the trip. I came in from the South at Jacks Creek trailhead and would love to return and hike the Santa Barbara Divide trails.

David Sugeno BPL Member
PostedJan 13, 2015 at 3:42 am

That sounds like a pretty rough first day to me. A person's response to elevation is very individual, but I think most flatlanders would struggle. Last spring I drove from Texas, getting to the Jack's Creek trailhead in the evening. The next morning I got up and hiked to Pecos Baldy Lake, which as I recall is around 8 miles and 3000 feet climbing. I am in good shape, but that first day just about killed me. First time I've ever had altitude sickness, and it did not feel good! I agree that an extra night or two car camping might be time well spent. Also, I always take a bear can to the Pecos, but I seem to be in the minority in taking bear precautions there.

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedJan 13, 2015 at 1:26 pm

Thanks for the comments and though that is pretty typical first day for me it might not be for her so I will tone it down a bit (and reverse the route-eliminate some miles)to accomplish this.

Day 1 start at the Santa Barbra Trailhead and follow the Rio Santa Barbra Trail for 5 miles and camp in a meadow.

Day 2 continue over the divide and camp at Truchas Lake. It's a 6.8 mile day.

day 3: hit the ridge and follow it over 10.8 miles until Serpent Lake to camp

Day 4 return to the ridge and follow it to trail 27 and then back to the trailhead.

If we get an extra day I may add a peak bag day at Truchas lake.

David Sugeno BPL Member
PostedJan 13, 2015 at 4:54 pm

At least to me, that sounds like a much nicer itinerary. If you can swing it, an extra day at Truchas lake will definitely be well spent. Of all the places I've been in the Pecos, I believe this is my favorite.

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedJan 13, 2015 at 7:29 pm

You are probably right. I normally try to get above treeline the first day of a trip and have no problem pushing to get there, but she might not appreciate the big climb and longer day especially if she has any problem with the altitude.

The only problem I see is that we will have creek crossings on day 1 and 2 rather than on the last day, but hopefully it will be arid enough to dry them out. Of course we may be doing some snow travel too although I hope it is at a minimum.

And I just noticed I have been saying the Rio Santa Barbra when in fact my preliminary itinerary is using Trail 25, the West Fork Trail on the West Fork of the Santa Barbra River.

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedJan 19, 2015 at 8:40 am

I am getting the itinerary finalized and had a few other questions.

First, what type of weather should we expect? We are camping pretty high so I am thinking nighttime temps around 35*F and daytime highs around 60*F? Does that sound right? We should be prepared for colder than that (my plan is to be prepared for ~20*F ) but want to know what to expect. My wife is very cold natured.

I am also assuming brutal sun with the possibility of afternoon thunderstorms.

Also what about bugs/creepy crawlies? I would normally go without a bug net of any kind and wouldn't expect much to be out that early but thought I would get your opinions. I do have a bug inner I can take that is about a 14oz weight penalty over Polycro. My wife particularly doesn't like spiders or scorpions.

Would you suggest anything for snow? Gaiters or micro spikes? I have an old pair of Intergal Design eVent shortie gaiters I used in the mid 2000's I could resurrect and I could get her something (MLD Light Snow Gaiters??) if needed. I also have some micro spikes for me and could get some for her if I need to.

As of now it's looking like we could spend a day/night in the area (Santa Fe) for a day to acclimate prior to to going to the trailhead. I figure my wife might appreciate that more than another night on the trail.

Thanks for your help.

David Sugeno BPL Member
PostedJan 19, 2015 at 5:17 pm

Hopefully someone with more experience in the area will chime in, but assuming you are planning the trip for June, I think the temp range you are anticipating should be about right. I was there last year between around the 10th and the 15th, I don't think it got much below 40 at night. I didn't encounter any thunderstorms, I think they get a lot more common in July and August, but of course you still need to be prepared. I did quite a bit of postholing, especially up around trailrider's wall, but I managed just fine in a pair of waterproof midweight hikers. No way of telling at this point how much snow you're going to encounter. I didn't have much trouble with insects, but was surprised one evening by swarms of tiny biting gnats, bad enough to chase me into my tent pretty quick. I was glad to have a shelter with netting.

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedJan 19, 2015 at 6:47 pm

Thanks for your help. We will be there the last week of May from May 24-28 (or close to those dates) so hopefully temps will be around freezing or above. I am not necessarily expecting thunder storms but know they are a possibility and just hope we aren't on the ridge during one. I have gotten into a few thunder/hail storms on previous trips out west and a thunder/snow storm on the JMT.

I will have to decide about the gaiters. We will both be in trailrunners and though I have done quite a bit of postholing in them, my wife has not.

Thanks for your advice about bugs too. I think the net tent will be worth it, especially to my wife.

Paul Magnanti BPL Member
PostedJan 19, 2015 at 7:28 pm

I think all the advice is right on. The only thing I would add is it is worth carrying the extra weight if your trip partner is happier.

Enjoy the acclimation night…and have a great time on the trip itself!

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2015 at 7:34 am

We booked our flights yesterday so we are set for the last week of May. I will post a gear list in the next week or so in the gear lists section but am trying to decide on gear wise.

First, I am trying to decide whether to take bear canisters or hang food. I have two bear canisters used for other trips already and though I used to only use them when I had to, I now find that many places I go out west have less than ideal trees to hang from. We will be spending one night in a field about 5 miles in on trail 25 along the west fork of the rio Santa Barbra that appears to be surrounded by a fairly dense forest of evergreen (spruce??) and aspen. (It's amazing what google maps can show us about where we backpack). We will also be spending two nights at Truchas Lakes which appear right on the tree line with sparse evergreen trees. Our last night will be at Serpent Lakes which is on the treeline and appears to have evergreen tree cover.

My experience with spruce and fur is that they have dense thin branches that often make for difficult hangs. In my experience it is also hard to get 4' away from the trunk of the tree. I have never tried to hang in aspen. What are your thoughts?

My other gear dilemma is on waterproof mitts or gaiters for my wife. If we are post holing a bunch she might appreciate some. I do have some old ID eVent shortie gaiters that one of us could use. I have done post holing with trail runners and no gaiters so I would probably be ok without them if needed. As far as waterproof mitts go I have a pair of MLD mitts that delaminated and a pair of Extremities tuff bags. I rarely use them out west but was so glad I had them last year in the winds when we got snow dumped on us and high winds. I am debating bringing some for either her (let her use the tuff bags) or both (buy her a pair – haglofs gram shell?? And me use the tuff bags).

I am also considering a mid layer for her to hike in if needed. I know I am fine in a base layer and windshirt but she runs cold so I am thinking something like an R1 or Malanzana grid crew (I have both). She also has an older Cap 4 hoody. I want to make sure she doesn't get cold.

Luke Schmidt BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2015 at 8:00 am

The Pecos gets decent hunting pressure in fall so I doubt there are many "habituated" bears. I have never used a bear canister in the rockies and I've never had a problem.
Bear hanging in evergreens can be a pain but with some creativity it works. One idea is a longer rope. I have a 50 ft. length of cord. I toss it over a tree branch, and tie off the end. Then I toss the free end over a second tree branch. Then I suspend my food bag between the two trees. Way easier then looking for a perfect branch.

As far as the other stuff I'd probably bring it. Better to haul an extra pound or two. Yeah you could probably survive without it but I'm pretty sure you'll use it all at some point.

HkNewman BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2015 at 10:11 am

I'd decently hang downhill (which is usually downwind when night falls) and there are trees. I've actually seen fairly large black bears in the Pecos in 99 (not your smaller versions found in southern NM,AZ, west TX), scat afterwards, but that was before the multiple fires/closure/drought. Not sure if they'll be that big anymore. Anyways, that time of year they will be heading towards the yummy fish guts in the flats. NM Fish& Game will be stocking like every other year and just about all serious anglers stay around motor transport.

Brad Rogers BPL Member
PostedFeb 18, 2015 at 9:55 am

Thanks for the help! It looks like my wife and I will have the large part of the day and one night before our trip and one evening/night after our trip in Santa Fe. Are there any suggestions on things to see/do while we are there? I haven't been to Santa Fe since I was a teenager and don't remember much about it.

HkNewman BPL Member
PostedFeb 18, 2015 at 11:17 am

The main plaza still has many restaurants (including some microbrews) and all kinds of touristy shops but still kind of neat. Some are at the southwestern part of town where motels are (NM14 and I-25). Most changes seem to be mostly residential growth w of city limits. Only gear place left is REI unless there's a recent addition. Try to stay off Cerillos (NM14) during rush hr.

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