MYOG bug itching again. Thinking a synthetic 40 degree quilt. Nothing fancy. Questions are what dimensions should it be. I'm 6'3 and a broad shouldered 225 pounds. Where should the taper start?
Thanks
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MYOG bug itching again. Thinking a synthetic 40 degree quilt. Nothing fancy. Questions are what dimensions should it be. I'm 6'3 and a broad shouldered 225 pounds. Where should the taper start?
Thanks
56-60" wide(I use 58" for our WIDE)
Taper at the mid point to 2/3 up from the bottom. Any higher and there's no point
80-82" long (84" is our long for 6'6"-6'8") what footbox style?
-Tim
Thanks Tim. Simple drawcord footbox. Will be used either in a hammock or a bivy, primarily the bivy.
I'd build it 56" wide, half tapered, 80" long with a 38" foot unless you got big ole feet
-Tim
He gots big ole feet.
True. 15s
40 or 42" then
-Tim
Thanks so much Tim, very helpful. Marc, uh, you too.
Are you a back or side sleeper?
I move from side to back to side again.
I'm a side to back to side sleeper, I have made several quilts and I try to use up the available width of the material, usually in the high 50's inches. I have found that a few inches too narrow is a deal breaker, the difference between tucking it under vs a 1 inch gap. Taper at the waist, and I always think that I bend my knees and get lower in the quilt so the lower the taper the better.
I'm an active side sleeper, and I often sleep with one knee forward. I find that if I use a quilt that is 8" wider than the measurement from the floor, around my shoulder, and back to the floor, then I don't get woken up by drafts when it's chilly. For a summer quilt, ventilation is easier if the quilt is only 4" wider than the floor to floor girth measurement.
If you are making your own, I'd start wide, with a low taper. Then test it on a weekend trip. If you close the top with widely spaced stitches, you can open up the top, turn it inside out, stitch 1-2" farther in, and trim off the excess.
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