Instructables Waterproof Plastic Maps

Ian, that is a good one. However, I don't think that very many of us have a color laser printer. Also, it seems to me that the finished map could be written upon, at least not with an ordinary pencil or pen. A Sharpie would work.

Laser printers stick plastic bits onto the paper, and that is why the printed work is at least moderately waterproof.

Also, you can use a Hewlett-Packard laser paper called LaserJet Tough Paper, and it is actually a plastic paper, if that makes any sense.

I've found an easier method for my color inkjet printers. I just print onto good 13×19 paper, let it dry, and then put it into a clear plastic bag. The bag is the plastic packaging for the paper when it came from the manufacturer, so it fits, and it can be closed with tape and then re-opened if necessary for writing notes.

–B.G.–

I typically use alcohol markers with laminated maps so assume that would work here.

Good idea on using the manufacturer's plastic wrapper. I'm actually heading out the door as soon as I hit "Post Message" to have the local print shop run some 11×17 maps for me. My low tech solution this time around will be to fold the maps and use gallon sized ziplock bags.

Still this looks like a fun tinkering project for a slow weekend.

Ian, what do you have to pay for a shop to print maps?

I haven't taken any map work to a service bureau in maybe 15 years, so I don't know.

–B.G.–

I just print on 8 1/2 x 11 paper and put in gallon zip top bag. Sometimes I cut a strip off the top of the paper so it fits better.

Put several pages in. Print both sides. Put the page I want to look at on the top so I can see it through the bag.

If you get in water on it the ink runs. Maybe I eventually have to replace a page, but I've used them for many trips.

"Ian, what do you have to pay for a shop to print maps?"

$1.18 per 11×17 Bob.

I have had great success using waterproof paper and my inkjet printer. I've have some over 6 years old and are wearing hardly at all. And it is scaled properly unlike what you wind up with the other method.

E Z P C

" $1.18 per 11×17 "

That isn't a bad price.

If I print the best color ink on 8.5×11" paper, I figure that I am putting $1 worth of ink there. Color laser is more permanent, but it lacks a certain subtle shading. That is good for maps and business graphics, but not so much for fine art prints.

I guess taking it out to a print shop is convenient enough for you. Sometimes I don't think about maps until midnight and I am leaving for the mountains at sunrise.

–B.G.–

Ian beat me to it. I use alcohol markers to mark on my maps too. I used to buy rolls of lamination stock for covering my maps, but it got pretty expensive when I was covering a lot of maps. I've since then tried a few different methods that have some merit.

I use re-positional spray tack adhesive or rubber cement around the border of maps and stick kitchen plastic wrap to them. Weighs next to nothing and allows me to mark out my route without permanently marking the map itself. With the alcohol markers it can be erased with a cotton ball and rubbing alcohol from the plastic wrap. The plastic wrap can also be replaced when it wears out.

The other method is to use a map case with a plastic window in it. You just fold the map to show the area you're working in. It too can be written on the same way as well as erased.

I usually print my maps for the custom area I'll be in through Trimbleoutdoors. There waterproof maps can be written on with the alcohol markers but can't be erased. They are durable maps though. There prices are about $15 + shipping for a 24" x 36" Waterproof. Double that if you want Laminated.

A long time ago my Momma showed me how to take clear contact paper and sandwich it together for *water-resistant* treatment. I haven't officially tested this; just an idea that may incorporate some items laying around the basement. The only trick is to overlap the layers to form a seal around the paper edge. I've used this a few times & nothing has had prolonged exposure that's affected the treatment so far. The thickness of the paper does inhibit folding somewhat. FWIW

I used to coat my old 15 minute USGS topo maps with clear contact paper. But just on the printed side. Works great, but it really adds quite a bit of weight. If you are taking several maps… like for the JMT the weight really adds up.. even for just coating one side.

Billy

Old school. Brush on Thompson's Water Seal. Polyurethane. Foam brush works best.

No affiliation with the brand.

Billy- Indeed it does add some heft. And watch out for paper cuts w/contact treatment! Probably could take a finger off

I have been very impressed with the Rite-in-the-Rain inkjet paper (same as Ken T is referring to, I assume) which can be printed on both sides. I soaked a map printed on this stuff in water for a few minutes and there was zero smudging or fading.

Just as a test, after using a map on a trip I kept it folded in my pocket and carried it with other items such as keys and a money clip (to check abrasion), got it wet and sweated on it quite a bunch, folded and refolded it, crumpled it up, etc. There was virtually no degradation of the image, which was a 600 dpi scan of another map, saved as a PDF.

Sounds like good stuff Bob. I'll need to check it out.

Roger C already reviewed it (wouldn’t ya know?!) Here!

I tried a direct link to the product but it didn’t work. Just look on Amazon for Rite in the Rain Weatherjet Inkjet Paper.

Edit: Only downside is the 8.5×11 costs around 75-90 cents a sheet, depending on where purchased and what quantity you buy. Still, not a bad price for wunderstuff.