Pattern for MYOG Hip Belt Pocket/Pouch?

http://www.granitegearstore.com/Belt-Pocket-P47C5.aspx

http://gossamergear.com/hip-belt-pockets.html

http://www.mountainlaureldesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=70

http://www.zimmerbuilt.com/hip-belt-pockets.html

Or – if you find a nice little lightweight zippered pouch in a thrift store or dollar store, just sew a wide webbing strip (or a couple of narrow ones) vertically on the back side to run your hip belt through; adding a loop to attach it to the load lifter is optional but helpful as well, to keep it from sliding off when you unbuckle the hip belt.

Thanks Ken, those are all so nice. Tempting to buy rather than make, but will try to resist a while longer…

maybe this can be modified into a hip belt pocket easily enough? the orientation is vertical instead of horizontal which could be wrong, but maybe it could be deconstructed and used for a pattern. then apply the zipper to a horizontal edge or the front.

http://www.rei.com/product/828837/eagle-creek-pack-it-specter-quarter-cube#specsTab

A nice pattern would be great. When I made my hipbelt pockets, I started with a long, 12×8 piece, sewed on the loops for the slick clips, then closed the sheet into a loop by sewing on the water resistant zipper to the 8" ends, with the fabric inside out. I then sewed each remaining open end shut, then boxed the corners by sewing them. Then cut off the excess corners, turn it right side out, and now you got a pocket with the zipper on top.

I then did my best to seal the seams with mcnett seam sure or whatever it's called, the more free flowing liquidy stuff.

I wish I had a pattern/pictorial guide for making the pockets with the zippers on the side like the ones Chris Zimmer makes.

I sewed hipbelt pockets by making a box, inside out, then inverting. So I had three pieces. I think it's more work than AndE's method, which I should probably learn. But corners are fun, in a challenging sort of way. The more you do, the better you get at them. Add your seam allowance to all of these:

-two identical front and back pieces, 4" by 6". I rounded the corners by tracing a glass jar. You can pick whatever length you want, I did one pocket 4×6 and one 4×8

-one piece for the top, bottom and sides, 2 inches by 28 (always add a couple of inches, because it's hard to estimate how much fabric you'll actually use around a corner).

Now the steps:

1) sew straps onto the back – I did velcro designed to fit in my MYOG pack
2) sew the zipper onto the front, along the edges
2a) cut a slit above the zipper
2b) fold the fabric in and hem next to the zipper
2c) attach a zipper pull
2d) fold fabric in and sew over the zipper ends
3) sew the pieces together, inside out. Swear a little when you do the corners. Cutting notches into the seam allowance on the long skinny piece (or either pieces) will help a lot.

After reading the above directions, a third way occurs to me:

Install a zipper between two strips of material, say 6" x 1.5" (or wider, depending on how thick you want the pocket to be). Then sew another strip, equal in width to the completed zippered piece, between the ends of the zippered strip to make one long loop. Cut out two rectangles for the front and back of your pouch, round the corners, and sew the zippered strip between them. This is fairly sketchy (sorry) but it occurs to me that would work. Finding the right length for the loop would take a little finagling to make things come out even.

I might also sew a second rectangle (a little less "tall", with the top edge finished) inside the one closest to your body – my Golite daypack hipbelt pockets have this to divide the pocket into sections, and it's handy for keeping flat things like permit, driver's license, etc., tucked away.

I'm not a wiz at sewing. Your suggestions sound great for an experienced sewist, but I'm a little lost without a pattern. If there's no pattern floating around out there, I might have to buy this item. One concern I have is, I'll make it so flimsy it'll be a pain to use. I noticed the MLD pouch Ken linked, specifically states has "structure and it holds the shape…".

If I make it, it'll be at least three iterations before I'm happy with it (based on past experience) and $20 starts to look like a deal when you're on your third version of something. So without a pattern…I may be headed to the store… but if one of you sewists has a pattern, maybe it's still within my (limited) skill range.

What fabric would y'all recommend? And can these pouches be one-handed? Or does it take a "grip and zip" two-handed approach, regardless? (In which case a very light bag may be just as good as a heavier one.) I've never used a water resistant zipper before; I imagine they're more drag?

If you want more structure and one hand opening, you'll want to use stiffer fabric like X-Pac VX21 or some thicker cordura or something. My pockets were made with a combo of 200D Oxford and 70D ripstop, so it usually takes more than one hand to open (my camera pocket cab be opened with one hand since I also added 3D mesh to the inside).

It also depends on how you attach it to your hipbelt. If it's a pretty secure/tight attachment, this can help with the one handed opening.

"I wish I had a pattern/pictorial guide for making the pockets with the zippers on the side like the ones Chris Zimmer makes."

Looks to me that if you followed the method you outlined, but moved the zipper to just below the "top" before sewing the ends shut, it would turn out like the pics on the Zimmer site.

"some ticket cordura or something"

Please clarify. What is ticket cordura?

–B.G.–

Oooh Bob, you're working overtime policing autocorrect/swipe/gesture typing typos.

Posted from my Nexus 4.

You know, it would probably be a lot easier to turn off the autocorrect function at your screen.

–B.G.–

I totally forgot about sewing the tube shut with the zipper to the front/side. I had originally imagined/planned it that way but when I started sewing it had completely escaped my mind.

It was the last thing I made for the pack so I was in "good enough" mode and just winged it. That's why one of my pockets is a couple inches smaller than the padded camera one. It works just fine though. Even the smaller pocket can fit a bunch of snacks in it.

@Bob – if only I could survive having to type letter by letter.

"if only I could survive having to type letter by letter"

There is an excellent new skill. Ten-finger touch typing. No autocorrect.

–B.G.–

But I find it so difficult to fit all ten fingers, even my ladylike ones, onto my phone screen, not to mention it's really hard to feel the ridges between the keys…I can only imagine how tough it is for all these he- men.

Cell phone typing, or rather swyping, is why I end up having to edit so many of my posts. That and posting before I think.

I have no pattern for you, but I have a suggested addition/mod:

A flap closure with magnets. I like the security of a zipper but even with ones that truly one-hand zip it's a minor bother while moving & prone to staying open on accident.

I've been playing with very small magnets, one set into in a flap, one set into the face of the pouch. That flap would self-close but could be pulled open easily on the go. I would do this on one pocket which carries stuff bulky enough to not fall out but still want some type of closure (gloves, food). I'd stay with a zipper on the other one for tiny items, maps etc. that you may only be pulling out a few times a day.

Bust apart dead earbuds for a pair of tiny magnets that will easily hold a flap closed.

Sew a small patch of fabric to the face of the pouch/flap with the magnet inside to embed it (use thin fabric like silnylon, not cordura).

I wouldn't put your compass near that though, or electronics/credit cards. The earbud mags are TINY but throw off a compass held nearer than a few inches.

I don't have any pattern, either. However, there is one thing that you see on camera cases that might fit into this idea. Make the top opening as a flap, but turn it around so that it swings away from your body rather than toward it. That is an improvement for keeping foreign material out of the pouch, and it seems to protect the contents better. Along the lines of a top flap, the closure can be simple Velcro, or, if you are afraid of it opening too easily, the it can be a complex Velcro closure. That is probably lighter in weight than a waterproof zipper, although it may not be as waterproof.

–B.G.–

Rick: I would be ALL OVER your magnet idea, which is excellent, but for the fact that the main item I put in the front pouch is my compass. I'm one of those compass-over-checkers, especially when the trail goes dead…it is my security blanket. But for those who are interested, small but powerful neodymium magnets are also sold at Home Depot, and in Radio Shack.

Bob: Yeah, I'd think a well designed flap over the top should go a long way toward keeping water out, and would be one-handable. It's a good idea. Let me ponder it.

One of the best closers I've ever seen was on a Bianchi military holster. It was powered by elastic, which held a wire hook up into place, latching the covering flap closed–very secure. When you pulled down on a D-ring, you stretched the elastic and the hook disengaged. One-handed, and absolutely silent. You could get close to the same effect with a loop of elastic around a button.

EDIT: THe holster was the Bianchi UM84, if you care to see it.

Delmar, I hear you on the checking compass more than normal (though I think it's a bit less for me!) I got one of these to try, REI had it for less than $1 tossed onto another order.

amazon link for first one I saw, there are plenty. REI looks to be out. http://www.amazon.com/Stansport-Pin-On-Ball-Compass/dp/B00DFZYU62/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394133415&sr=8-3&keywords=ball+compass

It is NOT for orienteering! Orienteering happens with a Suunto kept with the maps. I clipped it to a shoulder strap, to be able to glance down when trail turns etc, and I update my mental direction. Seems reasonably usable, just walking around a few mins. I'll keep an eye on it the first few trips to make sure it consistently points correctly.

Having your orientation at all times helps more than just staying un-lost, I will often make a mental note for the next leg, like: the trail will turn s-sw, 1/2mi after that we need to keep eyes peeled for water, (and estimating moving time). Something to occupy the brain and another data point for keeping located.

Made these for myself today. Put together a ‘how I did it’ for anyone interested. (Pattern is at bottom of PDF)

Rick and Delmar, similar to the pin-on compass, I use this clip-on to keep oriented on trails (again, NOT for orienteering). I put it on the tail of my chest strap, so it's always handy and easy to read. The Amazon link below has them at 12 for $10.26, meaning if they develop a leak, etc, they are cheap and easy to replace. I can also hand them out to young hikers when we take kids from our church hiking. No declination adjustment, but what can you expect for under a dollar?! To make sure it doesn't come off unexpectedly, I put a drop of quick glue on the clip.

Delmar, the whole sewing thing, along with pattern making, is a lot easier if you were brought up by a mom and grandma who were professional "sewists", or tailors, as we call them! Before I hit my teenage years, my mom refused to make me any more packs, bags, etc, and made me sew my own. A belt pocket is pretty easy, depending on what you want. Shoot me a PM with size, attachment, etc, and I can either make the pocket, or make a pattern for you.

Lance's pattern has possibilities. I recommend that you scale up the pattern to be 100% size. That would be tricky for those whose printer prints only on letter size paper.

–B.G.–