Sep 11, 2013 at 11:06 pm #1307572
Julie and I took the week of Labor Day off and headed to SEKI for some backpacking. We discussed a few different routes during the planning stage, but they were all based around a loop starting on the High Sierra Trail (HST) at Crescent Meadow, taking that to the Colby Pass trail into Cloud Canyon, and looping back through Deadman Canyon and Elizabeth Pass. Then the Fish Fire broke out about a week before we were going to start the trip and we were reading reports that it was putting a lot of smoke into the Kern Canyon, so we decided to alter the plan. We would save the Kern Canyon portion of the trip for another time and explore a few different areas instead.
We started off at the Crescent Meadow trailhead, where the HST begins. The general plan for the first few days was to acclimate, check out the sequoia grove at Redwood Meadow, and make our way to Little Five Lakes via Blackrock pass. Just before we got to Eagle View, we rounded a bend and a black bear was about 50 feet in front of us heading down the slope just below the trail. We watched it as it tore apart a bee’s nest and then came back up to the trail a few minutes later.
After the bear left the area, we continued on and the views started to open up a bit, but it was pretty hazy that day.
Since it was the Saturday of Labor Day weekend, the trail was relatively busy and we leapfrogged a few groups throughout the day. It seemed that many were heading for either Hamilton Lake or Bearpaw Meadow, so we decided to stop at Buck Creek and found a secluded spot set back from the trail a little bit. When we arrived there was a group taking a break near the creek and they pointed out a sow bear with two cubs working their way up the canyon.
The next morning we left the HST and headed towards Redwood Meadow, topping off our water bottles at Bearpaw Meadow before making the descent.
Once we got to Cliff Creek we took a nice long break for lunch and a swim. I hadn’t slept well the past two nights and it was starting to catch up with me, so I took a short nap while the sun dried me off.
We finally got moving again over an hour later. We still had a little bit more food than the bear canister would hold, so we camped near the bear locker at the junction of the trails to Timber Gap and Black Rock Pass. The options were limited, but we found a tiny piece of real estate with a flat spot just big enough for our tent. In hindsight, I think it would have been better to hike a little further and camp near Pinto Lake. It was only about 3 more miles and we had plenty of daylight remaining, but at the time I just wanted to stop hiking and get to bed early – so we did just that.
We awoke early the next morning, had a quick snack and began the long climb up to Blackrock Pass – an ascent of roughly 4,500 feet over 7 miles. The plan was to hike up to Pinto Lake before stopping for coffee and a more substantial breakfast. I assumed we’d see the lake from the trail, but we ending up walking right past it. Then about 5 minutes later we stopped and realized our error and backtracked to the camping area near the lake for our break. The lake itself was hidden behind some bushes and we didn’t actually see it until later on when we were above it.
The rest of the climb up to Black Rock Pass was long, slow and exposed, but it provided some great views towards a trio of lakes – Spring, Cyclamen and Columbine from lowest to highest.
At the top it got even better, with Little Five Lakes, Big Five Lakes, the Kaweah Peaks, and much more in full view.
On the way down from the pass I spotted a small patch of trees near one of the upper Little Five Lakes, so we aimed for that area and found an excellent place to stay for the night. We joked that our backyard was the lake and our front yard overlooked another lake with the Kaweah Peaks dominating the view – not too bad.
The next day we decided to head over to Moraine Lake instead of looping back to Hamilton Lake. A short walk from camp lead us back to the trail where we passed some of the other Little Five Lakes.
After a break at the Big Arroyo Junction, we rejoined the HST and gradually ascended up to the Chagoopa Plateau. It rained and hailed on and off for the remainder of the day, but hiking through the Chagoopa Plateau was quite pleasant nonetheless.
Nobody was at Moraine Lake when we arrived and we found a perfect beachfront place to set up camp. We got there early and enjoyed the solitude for a couple hours before another group trickled in.
We were only a few miles from Kern Canyon and hadn’t noticed any smoke, so we considered reverting back to our original plan. We were a day behind that original schedule though, so we ultimately decided that we didn't want to rush through anything and possibly still deal with smoke in Kern Canyon — we would save that section for a future trip. With that decision made, we looped back through the morning mist to the HST via Sky Parlor Meadow.
After lunch back at the Big Arroyo Junction, we continued on the HST towards Kaweah Gap.
The scenery was outstanding in this area and we considered camping in Nine Lakes Basin, but ultimately decided to continue on to the popular Hamilton Lake. On the way we passed Precipice Lake, just below Eagle Scout Peak.
There was nobody camping there, so we considered staying there as well, but again decided to continue on to Hamilton Lake. We had hoped that being a Wednesday night sort of late in the season would be a good time to stay at the lake without the usual hordes of people. A few different hikers we passed that had been at the lake earlier confirmed that there weren’t many people there and there were a lot of places to camp, so we felt pretty good about our chances. Unfortunately, when we arrived a few more groups must have just got there and it was crawling with people. We found a spot that was away from the crowds, but it was exposed and didn’t have much of a view. At this point I was really regretting the decision not to stay in Nine Lakes Basin.
The exposed campsite
The next morning we packed up quickly and headed towards Big Bird Lake via Elizabeth Pass. We were both pretty cranky that morning, but that started to turn around when we finally stopped for our morning coffee where the trail crossed Lone Pine Creek.
After the break we were back on the trail on our way to the pass. As we approached the trail to Tamarack Lake we were presented with a beautiful view up the canyon and suddenly had another decision to make.
We did not intend to go to Tamarack Lake, but we had a few days left and no solid plan for those days. We discussed our options briefly and then we were on our way there. It was still quite early when we arrived, so we spent a leisurely afternoon by the lake. It turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip.
The next morning we were on our way to Big Bird Lake for real. It wasn’t very far, but it turned out to be a long hike up to Elizabeth pass under the blazing sun. There was an unexpected water source fairly close to the top, so I grabbed an extra 2 liters of water and we had lunch at the pass without needing to ration the meager water supply we previously had. As we crossed over the pass we left Sequoia National Park and entered Kings Canyon National Park for the first time on this trip.
After lunch we began the descent down into Deadman Canyon with Glacier Ridge in full view.
When we got to the bottom of the canyon we followed the trail along a stream before finally heading off trail to get to Big Bird Lake. A short climb put us just south of the outlet of the lake, which we crossed over to find a campsite near the northern end of the lake.
On our final morning we would head up and over the ridge west of the southern end of Big Bird Lake. We crossed over into Tablelands right where the tiny lake is on top and the views up there were tremendous.
From there, we headed southwest towards Moose Lake where we would stop for an early lunch.
After about an hour at Moose Lake we retraced our steps to the top of the ridge on the north end of the lake and then contoured around to the ridge just south of Table Meadows.
From there we descended to Table Meadows and followed the Marble Fork Kaweah River towards Pear Lake Ranger Station where we would connect with the trail back to the Wolverton trailhead.
Once we got back to the trail we took a short break and then it was all business. We were back at the car in no time and about five hours later we were home. It was a great trip to a part of the Sierra that we hadn't been yet and it seems we only got to see a small portion of what the area has to offer. I can’t wait to go back for more!
A few video clips: Video Playlist
Sep 12, 2013 at 9:28 am #2024299
Scott BentzBPL Member
@scottbentzLocale: Southern California
Nice trip report. I have done the HST all the way to Whitney and also the original plan you had cutting off at Colby and then up Deadman to Elizabeth Pass. I definitely prefer the trip up and over Colby/Deadman/Elizabeth much more than continuing up to Whitney. I think Deadman is one of the most beautiful canyons I have been in.
It's nice you were able to make such a nice trip at the last minute. BTW. I have never been to Hamilton Lake without a bunch of people there also. One time, there was a group of people that were floating on the lake on plastic rafts! Not something you see too often almost 20 miles from the trailhead.
Your pictures were awesome too!
ScottSep 12, 2013 at 9:55 am #2024307
@andrew-fLocale: San Francisco Bay Area
Great pics. Sounds like you two had a great time. I've seen more bears in that area of SEKI than anywhere else in the Sierra. The Tablelands and Deadman/Cloud Canyon are on my short list.Sep 12, 2013 at 2:11 pm #2024365
Scott, thanks for the comments. What we saw of Deadman Canyon was beautiful for sure and I can't wait to see the rest of it along with Cloud Canyon and Colby Pass. Hamilton Lake was a bit of a disappointment and it just didn't really fit in with the rest of the trip. I think I would have been much happier if we just stopped there for lunch or something. One person we talked to said a ranger told them there were over 100 people there on labor day weekend. Don't know if they were exaggerating, but that sounds miserable.
Andrew, we're already talking about going back to see Cloud Canyon and the rest of Deadman Canyon. A trip connecting the canyons via Lion Lakes Pass, Triple Divide Pass and Colby Pass seems like it could be pretty fun.
Also looks like I need to attach a better image of "The route." On my work computer I can barely make it out.Sep 12, 2013 at 3:22 pm #2024376
Ken HelwigBPL Member
@kennyhel77Locale: Scotts Valley CA via San Jose, CA
fantastic report Chris…..I want to do this trip. Love the pics. Next year for meSep 14, 2013 at 7:57 pm #2024820
Tom ClarkBPL Member
@tomclarkLocale: East Coast
Wonderful trip report and photos!
TomSep 15, 2013 at 4:21 am #2024849
Ike JutkowitzBPL Member
@ikeLocale: Central Michigan
Looks like you got to spend a decent amount of time in a ridiculously beautiful place. I'm always envious of this sort of terrain, so different from what we have out here. Nice closeup of that bear too.Sep 16, 2013 at 4:20 pm #2025234
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