Q: Lighter UQs

Understand your preference, but I'm curious as to why that's your preference. Has just using bungie at each ends (JRB's UQ attachments) not worked for you? When I had UQs made, I always just used those, and I had a loop on either side at the midway point so I could keep the quilt up, but never needed to use those mid-loops.

Now with Dutch's Dutch Hooks, I'm hoping I can forego the shockcord along the channels completely. I'm thinking I'll still need it on the head and foot end, but I don't see why the shockcord can't be eliminated completely.

Sgt. Rock, who is a bit of an ultralighter at HammockForums still maintains his shockcord so I'm wondering if the above just won't work.

I think you want the shock cord to do two things:

1 – Allow some give in the UQ. When you get in your hammock it stretches a little bit. If you have your UQ too tight you risk ripping it if the hammock sags more than you're expecting. I once went to get back into my hammock in the middle of the night after answering nature's call and sat down NOT in my hammock but in my underquilt. For some reason it didn't support me and I ended up on the ground with a torn end channel.

2 – To keep it snug under you. If the UQ isn't snug underneath, especially on the ends and sides, you could have cold air blowing between your hammock and the UQ, effectively negating the insulation the UQ provides.

OP here

I'm using 9' to 9.5' hammocks so I'm probably not getting a snug fit on the lengthwise corner suspension. On my Tewa quilt, I used the side stabilizers (made for tie outs on WB hammocks) as tie points for a side to side, over the RL string. If you don't have a RL, end to end is the only choice of UQ suspension. I like having a RL and having the UQ pulled into a U shape, so I'm not limited to the all purpose, end only suspension.

The Warbonnet Yeti 3 Season measures 40"W x 46"L, with 1.5" baffles is filled with 6.5 oz of down and weighs 12.5 oz.

It is 1.1 ripstop shelled. If Nobull 10D or Momentum M50 (0.7 oz sq/yd) shells were used instead it would weigh about 1.5 oz less.

I don't think it has drawcords along the head and foot end though.

That's about as light as you can get. I wouldn't want to go much smaller than the Yeti.

I've tried using the smallest shockcord on mine to save a small amount of weight but went back to a larger guage for durabibility and snugness. It was maybe a difference of 1/2 oz.

I wasn't aware that Hammock Gear used the heavy-built shockcord channels,that possibly adds an oz to the weight. I believe Hammock Gear still offers custom fabric, so the Phoenix has it all and the rating is more conservative with deeper baffles and more down, a Phonix with M50 might come in as low as 15 – 15.5 oz.

I've thought of modifying the suspension on my UQ to cut a little weight. Replace about a section of shockcord in the middle with your choice of lighter cord. So you have a length of shockcord, length of regular cord (i'll probably use 4 or 5 ft of mason line), and length of shockcord in each channel. This accomplishes a couple things. The regular cord is lighter than shockcord. Also the mason line will reduce the droop. I think all shockcord has too much slack in it, so using less shockcord will give it just the right amount of slack. It's also possible to use thinner and lighter shockcord this way.

What knot would work well for joining shock cord to no-stretch cord?

nm

Albright Knot

It's not load bearing, so….any knot you know how to tie that holds? I will probably be using this knot http://www.animatedknots.com/doublefishermans/index.php

The JRB Greylock Under Quilt, torso length, comes complete with side channel suspension, Dual Differential design, body contouring radial baffles, 2.5+ inches of 800 fp loft at 14 oz and is reduced for 2013 at $ 179.95. Best part is they are in stock for immediate shipping.

Pan