Major road trip to western parks – mainly Yosemite

I decided to just get the entire JMT Map-pack so I should be set. I doubt I'd go anywhere off-trail with him along.

Leaving the car in the valley may be a good idea as well. If we finish early we can leave whenever we want and that would also allow me to drop off a resupply package somewhere in TM so we'd only need one canister (planning to pick up a BV500).

It would seem Davis Lakes would make a good campsite to attempt a 20-mile push into TM if my son wants to attempt that merit badge requirement as it's pretty much all downhill once we're over Donahue.

I'm sure he'll be ready to get back home after Yosemite though as we'll be going to the Smokies the following week.

You can rent socks/shoes in Springdale for the Narrows. I did just fine in May without though. Just trail runners and wool socks. Wife as well. Take trekking poles for this though. The river is slick.

If you or your son gets nervous on angels landing skip half dome. The valley is worth the drive through. Preferably midweek.

If you drive right by Bryce it is worth seeing.

North rim of the Grand Canyon is nice. But if you aren't hiking down it can be done quickly.

I enjoyed kings and sequoia. But as early as you are going much of the high country may have good snow. Just depends. You can see the trees and drive to roads end.

Sure there is dome driving from Yosemite but its not that bad. Especially since you are coming from so far already.

> You can rent socks/shoes in Springdale for the Narrows. I did just fine in May without though. Just trail runners and wool socks. Wife as well. Take trekking poles for this though. The river is slick.

I'm impressed you were fine with just wool socks in May's snowmelt! I figure I'll use the socks again at some point (winter hiking perhaps) so I'd just as soon buy them and be done with it. I've seen many say a portion of the lower section is like walking on slippery bowling balls. My Roclite 315s won't be the greatest for those in my experience but I'll manage fine. I may get something better for my son though. We just picked up some basic New Balance 606 that were on clearance last year but they likely won't fit him now anyway. We always use poles, too.

On a side note, I was just going through my trip journal of 30 years ago (high school trip for credit) and discovered we had done the Observation Pt Trail and a little of the lower Narrows. I noted I wasn't impressed by the Emerald Pools. I was also surprised that I noted Bryce was "boring because everything was the same" (Navajo & Peekaboo trails) and I was disgusted by scat (I'm guessing horses), dust, gnats & PUDs. I had planned for us to do the figure 8 loop which included those plus more but maybe I'll cut it down now. LOL

And a correction – I'd said earlier I had hiked from Phantom Ranch out the North Kaibab in 3.5 hours, but it turns out we hiked all the way down and back to Cottonwood (21 miles?) the first day and I did the remaining 7 miles out in 3.5 hours. We'll just going to Roaring Springs and back.

in case your 30 year old journal doesn't mention it …
hiking from the north rim of GC down to Roaring Springs will not give you a very good picture of the immensity of the canyon, since you are basicly hiking down a side canyon of the main canyon. the immensity factor is best experienced from the south rim.
but you will get some good exposure in a couple places and a great feel for the rock in general.

True, but I figured some in-canyon time is better than none, and I didn't want to deal with the permit. I think I should ask my son if he wants to sleep at Cottonwood as I did. I doubt he'd be up for going to the river though. That was a long day even for me at his age though it was not that hot (I was disappointed). Of course, I was wearing heavy hiking boots.

I highly recommend renting at least the water shoes for the Narrows. The day before we did the Narrows, we did Mystery Canyon, which ends in a rappel into the Narrows. I was in trail runners and using trekking poles and the short hike out was easy enough. I didn't want to rent the water shoes as I have really wide feet and we were doing the Narrows from the top down. 16 miles in ill fitting shoes seemed like a bad idea. I did buy a walking staff and was glad I did. I thought it was much better than trekking poles for water travel. The beginning and the end weren't too bad but the middle section was extremely slippery and my friends had MUCH better traction than I did. If we do it again, I'd still use my trail runners for the first 6 miles or so but also rent water shoes to use for the rest.

http://www.zionadventures.com/zion-narrows/rental-equipment/

I realize the South Rim is a zoo of tourists and your plan calls for you to pass the North Rim towards Utah beauty, a great plan.

But if there is some way to do the South Rim in your trip rather than the North Rim, a driving tour of the south rim plus a partial descent of the South Kaibab trail would give your son the best picture of the Grand Canyon's awesomeness.

perhaps on the way back home ?

Won't happen on this trip. We'll be heading home via I-80.

well you trip is pretty full.
I'm sure you'll have a great time.

May is usually upper 80s and 90s. The cold water was a relief. Remember its the desert!

But go ahead. Neoprene socks will come in handy in the future.

Where should we leave resupply at TM when we drive through assuming all services are open?

Are there better places to camp there (preferably for free)?

> It would seem Davis Lakes would make a good campsite to attempt a 20-mile push into TM if my son wants to attempt that merit badge requirement as it's pretty much all downhill once we're over Donahue.

Got the map pack today and see the site I had came across with mileage and elevation profile was incorrect. It seems to be only 19.8 to the road at TM from 1000 Island Lake. Not that big a deal but good to know beforehand so can plan to camp sooner so it would count.

"Where should we leave resupply at TM when we drive through assuming all services are open?"

Lots of southbound JMT hikers start at Happy Isles, get uphill to Tuolumne Meadows, and pick up a resupply there before heading up Lyell Canyon.

However, it doesn't make so much sense for northbound JMT hikers.

Also, trail mileages from Tuolumne Meadows can vary a lot since there is no single spot called Tuolumne Meadows. The JMT trailhead is on the east end, and the Cathedral Lakes trailhead is on the west end, and there are several miles in between.

So, you could easily make a 19.8-mile segment into 22 miles.

–B.G.–

> However, it doesn't make so much sense for northbound JMT hikers.

I can see that, but prefer to use only one canister if possible so my son doesn't need to carry one as well.

Someone suggested Davis Lakes as a good spot to see and it seems camping there is good so we could camp somewhere off the lower Cathedral Lakes trail if necessary to make the 20-mile goal. Just don't know if there are any decent spots near there or if we'd be better staying elsewhere and starting that day further down the trail.

"I can see that, but prefer to use only one canister if possible so my son doesn't need to carry one as well."

On the other hand, if he did carry a kid-sized canister, it would be good training.

"Someone suggested Davis Lakes as a good spot to see and it seems camping there is good so we could camp somewhere off the lower Cathedral Lakes trail if necessary to make the 20-mile goal. Just don't know if there are any decent spots near there or if we'd be better staying elsewhere and starting that day further down the trail."

There are some rules that NPS enforces around Tuolumne Meadows. You can't camp anywhere within four miles of the road. They have that rule because of great potential for overuse. Well, if you start up the trail toward Cathedral Lakes, four miles will put you within one mile of Lower Cathedral Lake, so you might as well camp there. Or, Upper Cathedral Lake. By mid-season, there may not be too many other sources of water. If you are really going strong, a good spot is a mile south of Cathedral Lakes.

So, as you are northbound in Lyell Canyon, you have to make a decision before you are four miles from the east end road. Then no camping. Then you have to wait until you are four miles from the west end road. That makes a gap of more than ten miles. Your other alternative is to use the small backpackers tent campground that is within the managed Tuolumne Meadows Campground for car campers. There is a fee, and you must have your wilderness permit handy. I don't like that campground since it tends to be noisy with all of the RVs and other vehicles not far away.

–B.G.–

This is what I have fleshed out so far and have a couple reservations made for the first 1/3. Anything I should change/drop/add?

June 17 Drive to KS I-70 Exit 132
18 Drive to UT I-70 Exit 190
19 35 min to Arches. Pickup FF tix & BC permit. Devil's Garden. Camp NE of Delicate Arch
20 FF tour. Double Arch. Drive 4+ hours to Escalante. See Hollow Mountain gas station at 24 & 95. Cap Reef – see Capitol Dome, petroglyphs, pick cherries, Panorama Pt & Chimney Rock
21 Zebra then Peak-a-boo/Spooky slot canyons (assuming road is dry and my Civic can make it)
Drive 2 hours to Bryce Canyon – Sunset Cgd
22 Sa Figure 8 loop – Drive 3.5 hours to GC North Rim
23 Su North Kaibab to Cottonwood
24 Hike out. Wave if permit OR rim viewpoints & Parrisawampitts Point
25 Wave if permit OR rim viewpoints. Drive thru Zion to Springdale
26 Angel's Landing & ???
27 Narrows overnight
28 Narrows overnight – drive 3.5 hours to near Lake Mead
29 Sa Hoover Dam tour. Drive toward Death Valley. Get motel room.
30 Su See DV Star Wars sites. Drive as far as Civic can manage to Mahogany Flat and camp on Telescope Peak
July 1 Drive 3.5 hours to Bristlecone Pines
2 Drive to Yosemite Valley; 5 PM bus back to Mammoth
3 Start JMT from Agnew Meadow
4 JMT
5 JMT
6 Sa JMT
7 Su Half Dome
8 See other valley sites, Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome. Drive back to Mono Lake area.
9 Tufa on South shore Mono Lake (if sunrise). Fissures on North shore Mono Lake.
Bodie ghost town. Travertine hot spring
10 Drive home
11 Drive home
12 REST before Smokies trip the 14th!

Telescope Peak. We did that hike on a full moon night. Awesome view.

I bet it would be. Full moon will be while in the Grand Canyon so I may go for a night hike.

"9 Tufa on South shore Mono Lake (if sunrise). Fissures on North shore Mono Lake.
Bodie ghost town. Travertine hot spring"

When we took the kids to the fissures in Black Point on the north side of Mono Lake, it was the afternoon and it was HOT! While sunrise at the tufa columns would be cool, I'd find out when Bodie opens, be there then, and go to Black Point BEFORE Bodie. Then pass through Lee Vining for the visitor's center, lunch, an ice cream, and then head to the Tufa. I spend less time at the Tufa than at Bodie or hiking to the fissures, so I'd the longer activities earlier in the day.

I've scrambled for lodging in that area when I didn't plan ahead. Trips went much better when I had reservations for the motel nights. Inquire if they have washer/dryer for guest use (self-serve and you pay like at a laundromat) – that lets you pack lighter and smell better.

"Full moon will be while in the Grand Canyon so I may go for a night hike."

I did a full-moon hike down the North Kaibab trail from the North Rim one summer, years ago. The temps were great, the lack of sunburn was great, and I didn't need a headlamp for most all of it. The was plenty of reflected light in the shadows and I remember coming around a corner out of the shadows and into the full moonlight and instinctive shielding my eyes (from the bright ground!) and then mentally chiding myself that full moonlight on the trail is about 1/100,000th of what full sunlight is. It still sticks in my mind as an example of just how versatile human eyes are.

I'm planning to hit those sites in order listed (S to N) starting at sunrise as we head in the general direction of I-80 home.

I haven't figured out what I'll do for sleeping yet:
1. before we start the JMT as the bus gets to Mammoth at 9 PM so not much time to find somewhere to camp for the night. I'll see if they have a hostel nearby or inexpensive motel.
2. When we head back to Mono Lake after we're done. Looks like several campgrounds as you come down 120 to Lee Vining. I assume we'll have found a place in Yosemite Valley to shower.

Last summer we had 1 shower and never washed our clothes in the 20 days. :) We did normally change out of our set of hiking clothes into the set of street clothes we took when we were in the car or in public.

when you take the YART bus back to Mammoth, the first stop (in Mammoth) is right next to a McDonalds (on the left), bus gets there 8:30-9:00.
Right across the street are two campgrounds : Old Shady Rest and New Shady rest.
I have stayed there, they are adequate. I think they are national forest campgrounds. you can make reservations (recommended) or get a walkin if you are lucky. try hard to stay at one of these.

campgrounds

next morning walk out to main road (Main St or 203), turn right and walk up hill for 1 or 1.5 miles to the new fancy shopping complex at the intersection of Minaret Rd (203) and Lake Mary Rd.
at the back of this complex you can catch a free bus up to Mammoth ski area to catch the Fee bus down in to Reds Meadow.
the free bus is actually run by the ski area for those who are downhill mtn biking on the slopes. hikers are allowed to use it for free.
The fee bus is $7-8 each and not run by Mammoth ski area, although you catch it there.
I believe the first stop this bus makes is Agnew Meadows (your stop).

Mammoth map

note : there is also another free bus service in town run by the town but it does not start service till 9:00am so skip it.
I think the first pickup of the free biker bus is 6:00 or 6:30.
I think the first run of the fee bus is 7:00 or 7:30.
you should check on this, I’ll look too, used them last summer for a hike on the JMT.

also, the Ranger office is very near the McDonalds and campground entrance but will be closed by the time the bus drops you off.

p.s.
if any of this is not clear just ask me for more details.

I assume we'll have found a place in Yosemite Valley to shower.

If you're coming off the JMT in Happy Isles, skip the bus (it'll be crowded and takes the long way around the loop. Just hike west toward Curry Village 1 mile away. There are several shower houses there in among the tent cabins. Some have a combo-lock on the door but at least one (looks more like a bathroom than a shower house, but has two showers in it), is open all the time.

Great info, Art!

I think the other David had mentioned reserving a cabin at CV when we were done – but I can't justify $136 + tax to stay in a tent. :P Looks like I'll try to reserve a spot in Lower or Upper Pines for that night.

I'd skip the multiple back and forths to Yosemite. Just hike the JMT from Mammoth to Yosemite and take the bus back.

You'll need a Half Dome pass and they may not be able to give it to you in Mammoth. Here is a link to the Half Dome permit details for backpackers http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/hdwildpermits.htm .
Contact them, maybe they will let you pick up a Half Dome pass in the Wilderness Center in Tuolomne as you pass through there.

Tuolomne Meadows has a backpackers campground you can stay at as you pass through, $5 per person per night. Early July there will be PCT thru hikers, fellow JMTers, Bay Area folks, and even a few UL backpackers in this campground.

There is a store in Tuolomne to buy resupply items as well as beer and ice- cream, a grill for a juicy hamburger and a post-office in case you prefer to mail a resupply.

The backpackers campground in Yosemite Valley is $5 per person, you can use it one night before and one night after your trip with a wilderness permit, no reservations needed or taken.

There is a pool and showers in Curry Village, $5 per person, use of towels included. Same at Yosemite Lodge I believe.

Free shuttle bus runs frequently in a loop to trail heads, store, etc, no need for a car in Yosemite Valley.

There is a bus ($20 fee?) up to Glacier Point. Hike back down or take the bus back.

Since we're coming from outside the Park, a HD permit isn't required even with their new restrictions for 2013. I verified that with their wilderness office a few days ago. My Inyo permit will allow us to climb it.

Nice to know about the BP camp in the valley. Would save a little from having to make a reservation in Upper Pines for the night. I see it's behind North Pines Campground (and across the footbridge). Where is the closest designated parking area for it?

I think Curry Village parking is the closest major parking lot to BP camping.
there is some parking behind the Ahwanee Hotel that is a bit closer, but Curry Village is much better for when you come off the JMT.