Could this be the ultimate UL backpacking saw?

That looks like a really neat saw. Looking at the picture, it seems like it would be very hard to setup. Anyway you could shoot a little video of it on how to assemble it? It might help with your sale. Include a little field test and that would be even better.

Thanks.
Noel

V1 of the saw:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmvL8caLuAg

The 2G is as easy or easier than the first generation Little Buck to set up. It does take less than a minute, no kidding . . .

Check out the new Little Buck Videos:
Assembly, disassembly, bandana roll-up – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M36rgcDWoQY
Cutting a hefty log in jig time – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Dr8gOly4cQ
New tyvek pouch option demonstrated – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qm-qoEjxwk

Here are the steps:

On a relatively flat surface, slip the slotted ends of vertical tubes over the blade ends (metal rings go around the slotted ends, see photo).

Put the horizontal spreader tube into place
(there are nylon nubs that the tube goes onto and that keep it from moving up or down)

Slip the Spectra cord loops over the top of the vertical tubes

Use a small 3"-4" twig or stick to tighten the windlass

Go cut some wood!

I just got the new Little Buck 2G in the mail today.
I'm totally impressed Rob, it cut easily through a piece of maple log I had kicking around.
Well done ! I'm always inspired when a small business makes something that kicks butt.

Now you can see it assembled, disassembled, and rolled into a bandana carry. All this and more in an ultralight 3.5 minutes!

Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M36rgcDWoQY

Hey Rob, the new vid looks great. How about part 2 that shows the saw in action? –Mike

I knew someone would ask for it, so now I have made one . . .
I think you will all be impressed.

Cutting a hefty log in jig time – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Dr8gOly4cQ

That's awesome! Impressive weight. I would love to see something like this in the 24 inch size for cutting serious logs for big long log fires in winter.
The bigger trail blazers can get pretty heavy.

You are not the first to ask about a 24" model. I'm pretty sure it could be done, though the two side tubes would have to be beefed up a bit (which would add some weight, though probably still pretty featherweight for its size).

I'll be working on it and keep you posted.

That would be great. It would be heavier, but probably still light relative to it's size. When I get more spending cash I would definitley purchase both.
You know…. if you made an account on bushcraft usa and subscribed to a vendor account I bet you could sell a lot of these there.

I have ordered materials to make eight 24 inch UL Buck Saws as a test run. Weight is likely to be about 8 ounces. Side tubes will have 50% thicker alloy walls for greater strength (since they will have greater tightening leverage applied to them). All dimensions will be about 50% larger than the Little Buck.

Imagine a 24-inch saw, able to tackle seriously major sawing chores, that weighs only as much as a cup of water (without the cup)?

Saw fans, stay tuned . . .

Justin – the idea of becoming a Bushcraft vendor is an interesting one, that I'm actually thinking about pursuing. I appreciate the suggestion.

Hi Robert,

The little buck Looks great!

Do you have one ready to ship?

i am heading out late next week and would pay for faster shipping if its possible.

thanks,

Matt B.

I just got my saw and trowel.
Shipped on thursday got it saturday yesterday.

saw 4.5oz with the stick
big trowel 0.5oz

Matt –
I can send a Little Buck by first class mail tomorrow at the usual price of $49 or for $5 more by priority mail if you need it even faster.

Robert,

I'm a big fan of instant gratification, so i'll paypal you $54 immediately.

Much appreciated, and sorry to trouble you on a Sunday… Bad online etiquette?

Matt B.

No problem with weekend orders and/or questions. Unless I'm out of town, have saws ready to go and can mail the next day that the post office is open.

BTW, if you have a 1st gen Little Buck, I have developed a conversion kit that includes the new cushy grip option and full instructions for the conversion process to make your Little Buck into the NEW IMPROVED LITTLE BUCK 2G! You will need to use a hacksaw to shorten the two vertical tubes from 12 to 9.5 inches in length. You should have received an email from me about this, but if not, please contact me. The conversion kit is yours, shipped, for $4, which is my cost for materials and postage.

Robert,

Received the Little Buck 2g on friday. Everything looks great. Cant wait to try it out.
Unfortunately it missed my Hike out friday. No big deal. i was carrying too much anyway.

A couple of design questions i have is…
if the blade becomes jammed while cutting and i pull upwards, is it possible for the blade to slip off?
Would a notch in the aluminum for the rings to sit in eliminate this? this possible non problem.
Also a notch in the aluminum where the tension strings loop over as opposed to a zip tie?
And finally drilling a hole in the aluminum and threading the tension string through/ tying a knot where the tension string is permanently attached. eliminating another zip tie.

Please feel free to ignore my 2 cents. You have already created a great thing.

thanks again.

Matt B.

Matt –

Q: "If the blade becomes jammed while cutting and i pull upwards, is it possible for the blade to slip off? Would a notch in the aluminum for the rings to sit in eliminate this? this possible non problem."

A: If the windlass is tight, the shape of the saw (wider as you go down to the blade) makes it so the blade will not slip, though with extreme force I suppose anything is possible. If it did happen, a notch for the rings would be a good modification, and I considered this idea myself early on. However, in my use and testing of the saw this has not happened. Also, no one who has purchased a Little Buck has reported this problem.

Q: "Also a notch in the aluminum where the tension strings loop over as opposed to a zip tie?"

A: This would work but I'd be concerned about the Spectra being abraded by a notch in the aluminum. The pair of zip ties you would save weigh only 1 gram.

Q: "And finally drilling a hole in the aluminum and threading the tension string through/ tying a knot where the tension string is permanently attached. eliminating another zip tie."

A: Well, you would save 1 gram by eliminating a pair of zip ties, but you would weaken the vertical tubes with the drilled hole (bad) and lose the nylon nub that helps to hold the spreader bar exactly where you want it (bad).

Also: Glad you appreciate the saw. Don't know why it took till Friday to get to you as it was sent Priority Mail on Monday. So much for the "two to three day" delivery.

Robert,

Thanks for the thoughtful response.
keep up the good work!

Matt B.

Most western saws are designed to cut on the push stroke. Long western saws tend to buckle easily. To counteract that they use thicker metal or a frame to keep it straight.

In Asia they commonly use saws designed to cut on the pull stroke. In my opinion they are easier to use and are great when you want a very thine cut. They can be maid long and yet use very thin metal. I have a small 5" pull saw and the blade without the handle weighs only 1/4 ounce (the lowest reading I can get on my scale). making it 3 times longer and it would probably weigh under an ounce. Add a light weight handle (the ones at the hardware store have heavy handles). and it would still be under 2 ounces.

If the one in the picture was a pull saw the entire frame would not be needed. The handle would only need to be about 3 inches long (T shaped to get a good strong pull) and could be made of light weight plastic.

Pull saws, if high quality, are excellent saws for woodworking and (if made with fewer teeth per inch than woodworking saws) can be excellent for pruning as well. An example of a 15" pruning pull saw is the Sharp Corporation 15" Fine Cut Pruning Saw. You can find pictures of it online. It has a removable pistol-grip plastic handle.

However, the weight of this saw is probably at least a half pound, if not closer to a pound. I've seen the shipping weight listed as a pound, but out of curiosity I have an email pending with the Sharp Corp for a more exact weight on the saw as well as its replacement blade, which I'll post when they respond.

Meanwhile, the Little Buck 15" blade, as thin as it is, weighs about an ounce all by itself. In theory, you could carry just the blade and a piece of windlass cord with you and whittle and saw wooden bow saw pieces out of wood to create a saw. So much trouble, but that would be very light (except the knife you would need to make the saw components).

Steven:

I am impressed with the low weight and versatility of the Little Buck. I have brought traditional bow and frame saws on BP trips and it would be far superior in weight and packed size. My wife is always after me for gift suggestions and the Little Buck is on the list.

But I also like your thought about a Japanese pull saw. I'll leave it at that here so as not to hijack Robert's thread. See you on another thread.

-David

Editted to say: I started a thread under MYOG to pursue this idea.

Hi Steve,

This sounds like an interesting exercise in conceptual conjecture. I would be more impressed with a report that includes the weight and cutting performance of a prototype. Unlike Robert's saw, which is available for purchase, the SUL pull saw is just vaporware at this point. Make one that works and we'll all be more interested.

I've been in software development for 30 years, and I've learned that the devil is in the details and that few things are as cool in reality as they were in our imagination.

>"the SUL pull saw is just vaporware at this point"

Er, on the thread under MYOG (where assisting or flaming someone's design ideas belong), I've noted that I've got an 18g version that easily handles 2" and manages 3" stuff okay.

Since I posted that, I've had another idea (which IS total vaporware at this point), and I'll post that, too. But under MYOG.