Oct 27, 2010 at 8:02 pm #1264880
I am posting the method I am using to make my topquilt. I used this method to make my down UQ. Thanks for all the suggestions you have made.
When I was posting questions about making a topquilt, a few people asked that I take pics and document my steps.
Please add any suggestions to help someone else make their project go easier.
50" wide tapering to 40", 71.5" long
5" baffle spacing, top chamber 5.5", bottom 6"
1.75" baffles, bottom 2 baffles 2" (foot section)
1.1oz dwr ripstop from BWDD
.9oz mesh from BWDD
1.5" seam allowance all the way around
I made a full size template, marked my baffles and seam allowances.
I put the fabric on the template. You can see the lines underneath and I used them to cut the fabric to shape (I used a soldering gun with a small pointed tip, it cuts and seals the edges). An added benefit of the soldering gun is the slightly melted nylon sticks to the mdf template and keeps it from moving.
I then, I know…GASP…trace the seam and baffle lines with a matching color sharpie. Then repeat for the other piece.
The sharpie lines are just visible enough to see while sewing, and if you stitch over them they are about impossible to see.
There are other ways to do this but it works for me.
Baffles sewn to one side.
Sewing baffles to other side.
Baffles all sewn, 3 sides sealed up and ready to stuff.
Weight at this point is 211g / 7.4oz, so with approx. 11oz of down should be just under 20oz.
Oct 27, 2010 at 9:09 pm #1658776
looking very nice. I like the idea of the template underneath.
I'm wondering if you cut the mesh baffles with the soldering gun as well?Oct 27, 2010 at 9:27 pm #1658781
very nice!Oct 27, 2010 at 9:35 pm #1658784
Dan, I cut the baffles with a razor knife.
I laid the mesh on a piece of mdf and taped the ends with one piece of tape on each end. I cut a straight line on one edge of the mesh, through the tape too. I then had a straight line to measure off. I measured and marked on the tape for each of my baffles (+1/2" for seam allowance, 1/4" per side), then used the straightedge and razor knife to cut each piece. Worked really well, just make sure you have the mesh pulled and taped snug.
ThanksOct 30, 2010 at 9:28 pm #1659727
– -K.T.- –Participant
Good tutorial. Can't wait to see the finished product! How do you deal with the baffles when sewing up the sides?Oct 31, 2010 at 6:54 am #1659791
Thanks Ken, recognize the sewing machine? Thanks again, great machine.
I guess I should have take pics of how I dealt with the baffles. The baffles extend about 3/8" past the seam into the seam allowance. That way the down can't shift into another chamber and the chamber can still expand starting right at the seam. I hope that makes sense.Jan 18, 2011 at 6:36 pm #1685697
Well I finally finished my top quilt.
To much time under the house replacing the foundation lately.
Well I ended up using 10 oz of 800fill down. From hammockgear.com . I had him package it per my specs. Super easy to take a small ziplock bag containing the proper amount for the chamber, shove it to the bottom and turn the bag inside out (one hand inside the chamber and the other outside) then just remove the bag. It took a little bit of finger dexterity but I didn't loose more than 20 individual feathers stuffing the entire quilt.
I ditched the drawcord bottom idea and went with a baffled circular foot box. I am very happy with the enclosed footbox.
I also stitched the bottom section up to just under the knees.
The loft is over 2" in a single layer, closer to 2 1/2".
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