Jul 6, 2010 at 5:25 pm #1260893
First some details: full dyneema grid stop (thru-hiker), removable hip belt, shoulder straps and hip belt have 3d mesh (thru-hiker), internal pad sleeve, 3/8" thick foam in shoulder straps. Dimensions; 12×6.5×32. This is my first full project, I have only modified gear prior to this. It was a lot of fun, but took several days. Only a few details left, trim some webbing and stitch webbing ends. Oh, and the most important info…542 grams/ 19.1 ounces, with the hip belt, untrimmed webbing and all the shock cord. I still need to weigh it without the hipbelt.
Apparently I am having trouble adding pictures.
Figured out how to add pics…duh…Jul 6, 2010 at 7:15 pm #1626772
Looks great!Jul 6, 2010 at 8:44 pm #1626794
Jim ColtenBPL Member
Looks like a fine pack. Nice work.Jul 6, 2010 at 10:09 pm #1626820
Ken T.BPL Member
Looks good. Sent you a PMJul 6, 2010 at 10:24 pm #1626823
nice pack!Jul 7, 2010 at 8:07 am #1626900
Thanks for the kind words. Up next is a shelter, maybe something along the lines of a hexamid solo, then a summer down quilt.Jul 7, 2010 at 4:16 pm #1627062
Dan DurstonBPL Member
It looks like an MLD pack with that color of dyneema gridstop.Jul 8, 2010 at 7:31 am #1627215
Just wanted to thank everyone for the inspiration to jump in and start making my own gear. Your projects and advice helped convince me that I could do it. ThanksJul 8, 2010 at 8:12 am #1627231
Awesome Pack! I'm very impressed – I've thought about making my own pack, but not sure about plans, there are so many sources. Where did you get the plans for yours, or is an "original"?Jul 8, 2010 at 6:59 pm #1627416
I ended up coming up with my own plans based on other packs, mainly MLD. The body of the pack was easy, basically a rectangle 6.5x12x32 finished. although I did put an angle on the bottom side pieces to keep the back bottom of the pack from sagging. I also rounded the bottom side corners. The shoulder straps I roughly copied the shape from an old osprey pack but ended up making them mostly straight, just a curve on the bottom. The hip belt was sort of copied from the same pack. I didn't want mesh pockets, I shredded them on another pack. The hip belt is removable, I wanted to see if I can go without. I still need to make pockets for the hip belt.
I am by no means an expert, but I would be happy to share any info I have gained. Just let me know.
And go for it, if you are worried about wasting money on good material just buy some cheap fabric (anything will do) and make a full size prototype. I made one out of some .99/yd cotton and it was worth it.
Thanks to everyone at BPL, this is an amazing forum.Jul 8, 2010 at 9:25 pm #1627454
Will ElliottBPL Member
@elliott-willLocale: Juneau, AK
Beautiful. Materials cost?Jul 9, 2010 at 7:00 am #1627516
Thanks for the info- it really is a great looking pack. The cheap fabric idea is an excellent idea, i'd heard of doing mockups for making sleeping bags, but it hadn't occurred to me to try it for a backpack. The shoulder straps and the waist belt seem like the most daunting aspects (esp. since I really don't know how to sew – but fortunately my wife does). Not quite sure how to tackle those, I'm thinking I'll need to build one to a plan first.
I'm also curious, do you have a rough estimate of the total cost of materials for your pack?Jul 9, 2010 at 5:56 pm #1627679
I bought 2 yards of dyneema grid stop and 1 running foot of the 3d mesh from thru-hiker (great folks to deal with). I believe the dyneema grid stop was $22 per yard, and the 3d mesh was $8 per foot. The rest of the materials I already had. I scrounged buckles off old stuff I had modified before. So about $60 invested. I would guess around $80 if you had to buy everything. I have about a half a yard of dyneema grid stop left, but still need to make hip belt pockets.
There is definately a cost savings, which was part of my goal but the main goal was to be able to make gear the way I want it, and if I end up not liking something I know how to take it apart and make it the way I want. There is quite a bit of satisfaction in that.
I used UV treated nylon (z46 from seattle fabrics), I had excellent luck with this thread, it fed smoothly and is stronger than polyester. Just for kicks I stitched some scrap dyneema grid together and it took most of my strength to pull the seam apart. The thread broke and the fabric ripped. Completely unscientific, but to me shows a good mating of thread and fabric. In my "test" I applied way, way, way more force than I think I would ever put on any of my seams.
I also tripple stitched all my main seams.
I ended up using almost a full one ounce cone of thread, but I did spend some quality time with a seam ripper.
A couple of tips;
1. Just go for it but keep a seam ripper close and a beer closer.
2. Spend the time to get your tension set on your machine, with the needle and thread and material you will be using.
3. Needles are cheap, change it.
4. Narrow double stick tape from joanne fabrics, not the kind you can sew through, about 1/4" wide or less. Way better than pins, I put the tape on the edge of the fabric (in the seam allowance) then removed after sewing the two pieces together. Can I tell you how I love this tape. The tape is made by Dritz, and is called Sewing & Craft Tape. I really love this stuff.
Thanks again for the positive comments. If anyone wants specific info or specific pics just let me know.
Remember the seamripper and the beer, I recommend Deschutes Black Butte Porter.Jul 21, 2010 at 7:46 am #1630959
That is an awesome looking pack!
I've been MYO packs, and I was curious about what you meant by angling the bottom parts of the sides.
Do you have patterns us MYOG people could use to give this project a try?
Do you have tips for the order of construction?
Thanks, and good work!Jul 22, 2010 at 5:34 pm #1631518
Sorry, was out of town for a few days.
Regarding the angle on the bottom of the sides of the pack: I started with a rectangle 7.5" X 34", on the bottom edge (7.5" wide) I measured up from the bottom about 3" and made a line connecting that spot with the other bottom corner creating an angle. The full length side attaches to the back panel. I don't know if it made the sewing any easier, but I further cut the angled edge with about a 1" radius on the backpanel side, and a gentler arch on the back of the pack side (basically just eyeballed the cut so it looked smooth).
I hope this makes sense.
As soon as I have some time I will add some pics, and order of assembly info to try to help clarify.
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